I really loved this video for a variety of reasons. First, few people have the patience it requires to do perfect work, so I applaud you for yours. Even with similar tools and materials, it takes a person who is willing to throw the clock out of the window and focus on the project. It’s also great to see a young man who has old craftsman skills. That’s a rarity seldom seen. Finally, it’s not possible to produce a better quality video than this one, because it zooms in when appropriate, giving the viewer the opportunity to see the craftsmanship just as if he was actually in the shop watching the work being done. Compliments and thanks.
i like this fellow doing this tutorial, he is very descriptive and tells you everything in fine detail and is a very highly skilled tradesman, thanks buddie
I've had a scratched and dented piece of trim for my 1946 Morris 8 in the "too difficult " basket for some time now. Watching Chris Foose on Overhaulin' showed me some of the techniques that I would need to use, but the nature of the show means you only see a few seconds of him working at a time. Watching your detailed exposition of the methods and sequence required enabled me to carry out an effective and complete repair yesterday and what was unsightly now looks brand new. Thank you for taking the time to post your excellent video. Peter Walker
when i was a kid this was my first job buffing i never sanded that much only went to 400 and buffed it out much faster i was getting piece rate but at age 15 i was making around 20 hr and every piece had to be perfect or no pay only had one thing come back in 2 years and that was the second piece i did
Really great - totally focused on the restoration and well done video. I have no idea what the comment below meant by "lay off the coffee" - this was great!
Great video and very well developed skills. My back hurts just watching the buffing wheel segment as I would weld some pipe-in-pipe legs like a metal walking cane. Question, 1968 C10 rear window SS I have is OEM and is one piece segments. It is folded on its self and one edge returns to the center that create a deep barb that goes into the rubber groove. Everything is excellent except one spot under the fold that can't be seen. Will it have be bent to get a flat "Peek-a-Boo" tool inside to massage out? Keep those dolly's and hammers polished! Take care, hope all is well 4 years since video was posted. Great talent/skills!
Great, well done video! I was trying today (for the first time) to take dents and scratches from my wheel well stainless trim. I watched your video after that (wish I had watched it before LoL). I did get them looking pretty good for my first attempt. I could use more anvils and hammers after seeing your methods. I will now work on the windshield & rear window trim that has a few small dents & scratches. Lots of stainless trim on my 70 GTO, so I really appreciate this video. I feel what I was doing was correct mostly. I didn't have the stick buffing compound so I used paste rubbing compound, which worked but really spatters! Thanks again for the video!
Very well presented! This is probably a really stupid question but I would really appreciate your thoughts. After you add the rouge to the buffing wheel and start buffing and the wheel IMMEDIATELY becomes jet black do you just continue to buff or stop and do something to get rid of the black residue? Thank you.
Great video are you available for doing this type of work for someone else's trim working on his 55 Chevy handyman and either going to try it myself or pay someone to do it what do you think?
I had a 1949 Cad sedanette fastback, the rear fender spears had small damage so I sent them to be repaired, when they came back the dents were gone but the spears were Warped so bad from getting them to hot from buffing, that I couldn't bolt them on the fenders, I tried to re curve them but never got them right, SHURE WISH I KNEW U, but that was in the late 70s. NICE VIDEO. thanks, William.
0:39 ..I almost laugh-shot cereal out my face when the visual entered my mind, (after talking about all the wear and dings), of you just flat out tossing the grill on the floor. Omfg... You did not do this, but Thank you for whatever cabin-fever-inspired hilarity just happened. I'm actually here because I'm trying to do a restore (99% small dents, dings,.. almost from a mini pencil eraser-size mystery object) on a 1972 Chrome Over Brass Slingerland Snare drum. It's stripped to its bare shell. Chrome is luckily intact around the entire shell, save for one, 1" long spot on the top edge where the head of the drum makes contact. As far as I'm concerned, you auto shop folks are all alchemist/Wizard hybrids when it comes to this, so I'm here to learn. Thanks for posting this!
Hello, The sandpaper used in this video is 3M stickit paper and is commonly used on board sanders when sanding body filler. Here is a link to one possible source: www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-stikit-gold-sheet-2-34-sandpaper-rolls-p-11340.aspx Or check your local Napa store or auto parts store that carries auto body supplies. Wrench Safe, Mark Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
This particular buffer is relatively slow at 1,750rpm, but to compensate Gary uses 10" buffing pads to increase the fpm (feet per minute) to around 4,500fpm. A speed he seems to like for buffing.
I loved the video showed me allot but what was the compounds you put on the buffing wheels I see you used two different kinds but what are they? I have never buffed anything out before like trim metals
Hi Michael, The two compounds Gary used were both from Eastwood Company, they included their: - Stainless Buffing compound - White Rouge compound Eastwood has more recently changed their packaging on these but it's the same stuff. Always keep your buffing compounds stored in air tight plastic bags or containers. Once it dries out it is very difficult to work with. Mark Classic Car Restoration Club
You are correct! "You can not sand chrome". Although for this video Gary is sanding and straightening Stainless steel trim, and stainless can be sanded and polished. Stainless steel contains high levels of nickel and chromium so it is "Hard" and can be difficult to polish without a fair amount of elbow grease.
So. I’m working on what I believe is stainless trim from my 74 grand Ville. Window surrounds. They almost look spotted. Water spots. Not pitting. But when I sand it’s like I’m taking a finish off and can’t get it shiny again. Am I doing something wrong ? 😢. Thanks
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content. If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below: go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C53253 Thanks!
Hi Jim. Most of the clips on your beltline trim are snap on clips. and are removed by placing a putty knife or nylon trim removal tool above and below the trim clips and prying out. Although sometimes there are bolt on trim clips located near the ends and it is best to look at the backside first before removal. Another good reason to check the backside first, is often cars have been apart before and not always do they use the right clips to re-attach the trim. Mark Classic Car Restoration Club
Hi! Does anyone knows a good tutorial on how can I make a whole trim from scratch? I mean I bought an old classic car and the last owner doesn't have the chrome trims anymore and the car is so old that no one else sells them so in order to finish my project I need to do my owns and I can't find a tutorial that is not about restoring one 😕☹
Hello Israel, We are not aware of any tutorials on building trim entirely from scratch. although we have seen cars with custom built trim... often made on CNC equipment. There are companies like Clayton Machine (www.claytonmachine.com/product/exterior-aluminum-trim/) that manufacture aluminum trim that can be formed, cut and shaped to fit many cars.
Hello East, Stainless repair and polishing can be the same or more than the cost of chrome plating. But a good straightening and polishing company can work wonders. And make stainless trim look even better than new. Hope this helps, Mark Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
I was watching an aluminum panel for a Ferrari being made at Motion Products. He had to occasionally hit the panel with a torch because it would get work hardened. Are the dents in the trim small enough that you don't have to worry about it or have you had pieces that were bad enough that you had to work so much they required it? I've just subscribed to your channel you metal magician!
Hello, For most trim straightening there will be no need for anneal the metal with a torch. Any metal can become work hardened and fatigue if moved a lot or worked for extended periods of time. Softer and non-ferrous metals like aluminum, brass and copper are more prone to work hardening than steel and stainless steel. Wrench Safe, MarkClassic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Hello Stephen, This can be a problem on some re-pop clips, Not all re-pop clips are as good as the factory clips, I have on countless occasions needed to bend/twist/modify re-pop clips to work. So don't be afraid to modify your clips, additionally you may want to consider universal styled molding clips, some of those will hold the trim on better than original clips. Mark Classic Car Restoration Club
There is no need to clear coat Stainless Steel, as it will keep its luster for years and will not rust. It will corrode, if left in VERY harsh conditions for an extended periods if time, but it is more likely the rest of the car will rust away before the Stainless Trim is affected. . Aluminum however should be coated with: Wax, clear coat, clear powder coat, anodizing, flash plating, paint, etc.
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content. If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below: go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C35037 Thanks!
Hello, I do not see that your active Premium customer. Our Ask Expert Program is for those Premium members. Here is a link to our Premium membership at a deep discounted rate: go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C21976
You applied some sort of polishing compound in a stick form to each rotating polishing wheel, but did not describe what that stuff was. Can you clear that up?
Hi Dean, Gary is applying a buffing compound to the wheel. The compounds he uses are Eastwood brand although Eastwood has changed their packaging on this item. Here is a link to an assortment pack they offer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-buff-compound-set-6-different-compounds.html They also sell each type individually. Mark Classic Car Restoration Club
Yes straightening aluminum is done much the same way. although because it is a softer metal we start the sanding steps with much finer grit papers. If the aluminum is anodized, it is important to remove the anodize before straightening and polishing. Here is a video that demonstrates an easy way to remove anodizing: www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/removing-anodized-finish-013907/ And here is a video that explains the straightening and polishing steps on aluminum: www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/straightening-polishing-aluminum-013906/ Wrench Safe, Mark
HI! What is he putting on the buffer after he cleans it with the buffing dresser? Does the second buffer need it as well? Thanks! I've got about 3 miles of trim to work on for my 67 Impala. Cant wait....
same for me I have 67 impala convertible to do, this is the best video I have seen on it. the dressing he is using is a polishing compound, you can get it from most tool stores
Hello John, Cost can range dramatically depending on the condition of your stainless and the rates charged by the shop you're having it done at. If you have the time and willingness to learn, the tools and supplies will often pay for themselves with doing all the stainless on a 50s era car. Mark Classic Car Restoration Club
I really loved this video for a variety of reasons. First, few people have the patience it requires to do perfect work, so I applaud you for yours. Even with similar tools and materials, it takes a person who is willing to throw the clock out of the window and focus on the project. It’s also great to see a young man who has old craftsman skills. That’s a rarity seldom seen. Finally, it’s not possible to produce a better quality video than this one, because it zooms in when appropriate, giving the viewer the opportunity to see the craftsmanship just as if he was actually in the shop watching the work being done. Compliments and thanks.
Best How To video I have seen in a long time. Clear, realistic, well positioned camera and clear voice. THANKS!!!
i like this fellow doing this tutorial, he is very descriptive and tells you everything in fine detail and is a very highly skilled tradesman, thanks buddie
You're very welcome!
I've had a scratched and dented piece of trim for my 1946 Morris 8 in the "too difficult " basket for some time now. Watching Chris Foose on Overhaulin' showed me some of the techniques that I would need to use, but the nature of the show means you only see a few seconds of him working at a time.
Watching your detailed exposition of the methods and sequence required enabled me to carry out an effective and complete repair yesterday and what was unsightly now looks brand new.
Thank you for taking the time to post your excellent video.
Peter Walker
that reminds me of the monster garage clip with bill hines doing Leadwork
thats true, great show, very talented guy, CHIP FOOSE.
1946 Morris eh...you can't just go to AutoZone or RockAuto and get a set of those?
Great video! I like how you are very informative with explaining the tools and materials without a lot of BS. Very professional method of teaching.
OMG only half way thru. Like the way you teach. Well done. Gonna follow this lead
I did the stainless on my 1970 Cuda. This is very labor intensive throughout the entire process. Good video sir.
Thanks Gary for a great video. Great tips. Gotta love them old cars with shiny trim.
Mr. Simpson, thanks for your great presentation on this subject. Looking forward to any future videos!
Great video. Just painted my old ford pickup and the trim has a ton of tiny dings. Now I know how to restore them. Thanks.
Thanks for the good video
Always great to watch a craftsman!
After watching this video at least 100 times, I’ll start my 68 C10s chrome one piece at a time. Good nighttime project over winter, saving $1,000s
when i was a kid this was my first job buffing i never sanded that much only went to 400 and buffed it out much faster i was getting piece rate but at age 15 i was making around 20 hr and every piece had to be perfect or no pay only had one thing come back in 2 years and that was the second piece i did
Amazing video... gonna use these techniques on my '46 Dodge WC grill trim... excellent video!!
That's amazing! Great work.
Really great - totally focused on the restoration and well done video. I have no idea what the comment below meant by "lay off the coffee" - this was great!
Had to be sarcasm. I hope. He’s clearly laid back. In a good way. 🤙
Very nice work. Great work and process discipline.
Thank you. I appreciate the education.
Thank you for this helpful video.
An artist at work
Great video and very well developed skills. My back hurts just watching the buffing wheel segment as I would weld some pipe-in-pipe legs like a metal walking cane. Question, 1968 C10 rear window SS I have is OEM and is one piece segments. It is folded on its self and one edge returns to the center that create a deep barb that goes into the rubber groove. Everything is excellent except one spot under the fold that can't be seen. Will it have be bent to get a flat "Peek-a-Boo" tool inside to massage out? Keep those dolly's and hammers polished! Take care, hope all is well 4 years since video was posted. Great talent/skills!
Excellent video...very informative!
Great video! Liked it a lot and helpful.
Thank you for the really good fix it tips!
Happy to help!
Excellent video, thank you for it. I didn't realize Tripoli would cut stainless but now I know!
Very helpful! Thanks for posting.
Great video....again true skill demonstrated by those who work and produce this channel..
Nicely done!
Thank you very much! I have dings and scratches on my 64 Galaxie and I am going to try this. Your great. Lee
Awesome video tks for sharring you are a true Artist ! Nice to know if I need it for my 63' chevy nova , God bless 🙏💜
Old school skill. Nice job man.
Nice work bro! Great video, Cheers
Great, well done video! I was trying today (for the first time) to take dents and scratches from my wheel well stainless trim. I watched your video after that (wish I had watched it before LoL). I did get them looking pretty good for my first attempt.
I could use more anvils and hammers after seeing your methods. I will now work on the windshield & rear window trim that has a few small dents & scratches. Lots of stainless trim on my 70 GTO, so I really appreciate this video. I feel what I was doing was correct mostly. I didn't have the stick buffing compound so I used paste rubbing compound, which worked but really spatters!
Thanks again for the video!
great to see a younger guy doing it
Very well presented! This is probably a really stupid question but I would really appreciate your thoughts. After you add the rouge to the buffing wheel and start buffing and the wheel IMMEDIATELY becomes jet black do you just continue to buff or stop and do something to get rid of the black residue? Thank you.
Great video are you available for doing this type of work for someone else's trim working on his 55 Chevy handyman and either going to try it myself or pay someone to do it what do you think?
Thanks for sharing; I learned something today...:o)
Excellent-Great Presentation
Great video. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Excellent work. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thank you! Cheers!
EXCELLENT video!
Great info - thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
great information, thank you for the video!
good tutorial, well explained, thanks for sharing. subbed
I had a 1949 Cad sedanette fastback, the rear fender spears had small damage so I sent them to be repaired, when they came back the dents were gone but the spears were Warped so bad from getting them to hot from buffing, that I couldn't bolt them on the fenders, I tried to re curve them but never got them right, SHURE WISH I KNEW U, but that was in the late 70s. NICE VIDEO. thanks, William.
Why doesn't this video have more views???!!!
Many thanks .... just what I was looking for :)
Very interesting video, well done and thanks.
Awesome! Thank you!
0:39 ..I almost laugh-shot cereal out my face when the visual entered my mind, (after talking about all the wear and dings), of you just flat out tossing the grill on the floor. Omfg... You did not do this, but Thank you for whatever cabin-fever-inspired hilarity just happened. I'm actually here because I'm trying to do a restore (99% small dents, dings,.. almost from a mini pencil eraser-size mystery object) on a 1972 Chrome Over Brass Slingerland Snare drum. It's stripped to its bare shell. Chrome is luckily intact around the entire shell, save for one, 1" long spot on the top edge where the head of the drum makes contact. As far as I'm concerned, you auto shop folks are all alchemist/Wizard hybrids when it comes to this, so I'm here to learn. Thanks for posting this!
DUDE AWESOME VID THANKS 4 THE KNW HOW. 1 MORE THING WHERE DID U GET THE ROLL OF SAND PAPER
Hello,
The sandpaper used in this video is 3M stickit paper and is commonly used on board sanders when sanding body filler.
Here is a link to one possible source: www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-stikit-gold-sheet-2-34-sandpaper-rolls-p-11340.aspx
Or check your local Napa store or auto parts store that carries auto body supplies.
Wrench Safe,
Mark Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Hey man.....great work...good on you!
Great work!
very nice video!
Great to know, Wow, I needed that
very good i do some straightening and polishing myself....
Great video
AWESOME! You Da MAN Gary!!! What's the rpm on the buffing motor?
This particular buffer is relatively slow at 1,750rpm, but to compensate Gary uses 10" buffing pads to increase the fpm (feet per minute) to around 4,500fpm.
A speed he seems to like for buffing.
Great video with useful info but what a time consuming task this is~!!
I loved the video showed me allot but what was the compounds you put on the buffing wheels I see you used two different kinds but what are they? I have never buffed anything out before like trim metals
Hi Michael,
The two compounds Gary used were both from Eastwood Company, they included their:
- Stainless Buffing compound
- White Rouge compound
Eastwood has more recently changed their packaging on these but it's the same stuff.
Always keep your buffing compounds stored in air tight plastic bags or containers.
Once it dries out it is very difficult to work with.
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
If I didn't drink so much coffee, maybe I would have the patience for this. They deserve top dollar, not easy to do.
I didnt think you could actually sand chrome. Would have lové to see the final result of the whole piece
You are correct! "You can not sand chrome". Although for this video Gary is sanding and straightening Stainless steel trim, and stainless can be sanded and polished. Stainless steel contains high levels of nickel and chromium so it is "Hard" and can be difficult to polish without a fair amount of elbow grease.
Guitarist restoring a T-Bird......What is that intro music from?
So. I’m working on what I believe is stainless trim from my 74 grand Ville. Window surrounds. They almost look spotted. Water spots. Not pitting. But when I sand it’s like I’m taking a finish off and can’t get it shiny again. Am I doing something wrong ? 😢. Thanks
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C53253
Thanks!
Any videos on removing rear quarter fender trim on 51 Chevy Delivery Sedan??
Hi Jim.
Most of the clips on your beltline trim are snap on clips. and are removed by placing a putty knife or nylon trim removal tool above and below the trim clips and prying out.
Although sometimes there are bolt on trim clips located near the ends and it is best to look at the backside first before removal.
Another good reason to check the backside first, is often cars have been apart before and not always do they use the right clips to re-attach the trim.
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
a masterclass
Hi! Does anyone knows a good tutorial on how can I make a whole trim from scratch? I mean I bought an old classic car and the last owner doesn't have the chrome trims anymore and the car is so old that no one else sells them so in order to finish my project I need to do my owns and I can't find a tutorial that is not about restoring one 😕☹
Hello Israel, We are not aware of any tutorials on building trim entirely from scratch. although we have seen cars with custom built trim... often made on CNC equipment.
There are companies like Clayton Machine (www.claytonmachine.com/product/exterior-aluminum-trim/) that manufacture aluminum trim that can be formed, cut and shaped to fit many cars.
NICE!!
GR8 Thank You!
How much do shops charge to fix ? Is it expensive?
Hello East,
Stainless repair and polishing can be the same or more than the cost of chrome plating. But a good straightening and polishing company can work wonders. And make stainless trim look even better than new.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Thank You!
Where can i buy those for a 79 caprice
Excellent Job where are You based out of and how do I contact You?
Hello Ron,
Here the link our contact us section: www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/contact/
Thanks!
I was watching an aluminum panel for a Ferrari being made at Motion Products. He had to occasionally hit the panel with a torch because it would get work hardened. Are the dents in the trim small enough that you don't have to worry about it or have you had pieces that were bad enough that you had to work so much they required it? I've just subscribed to your channel you metal magician!
Hello,
For most trim straightening there will be no need for anneal the metal with a torch.
Any metal can become work hardened and fatigue if moved a lot or worked for extended periods of time.
Softer and non-ferrous metals like aluminum, brass and copper are more prone to work hardening than steel and stainless steel.
Wrench Safe,
MarkClassic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Good 👍
Having problems with the new repop molding clips on a 53 belair ..clip comes lose when putting on the molding..
Hello Stephen,
This can be a problem on some re-pop clips, Not all re-pop clips are as good as the factory clips, I have on countless occasions needed to bend/twist/modify re-pop clips to work.
So don't be afraid to modify your clips, additionally you may want to consider universal styled molding clips, some of those will hold the trim on better than original clips.
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
do you clear coat after you polish? Does the clear coat help keep the shine, and prevent rust?
There is no need to clear coat Stainless Steel, as it will keep its luster for years and will not rust.
It will corrode, if left in VERY harsh conditions for an extended periods if time, but it is more likely the rest of the car will rust away before the Stainless Trim is affected. .
Aluminum however should be coated with: Wax, clear coat, clear powder coat, anodizing, flash plating, paint, etc.
That dude from Breaking Bad is looking good
very nice.
How to install clips on trim molding on a 1954 ford crestline
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hundreds of hours of Premium content.
If you are interested in becoming a member, please click on the offer below:
go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C35037 Thanks!
Great Thanks
Can this be done with stainless steel with flash chrome?
Hello,
I do not see that your active Premium customer. Our Ask Expert Program is for those Premium members. Here is a link to our Premium membership at a deep discounted rate:
go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C21976
Classic Car Restoration Club hahaha. Your out of your mind! 🤯
on my 60 Cadillac can i do this to the inside trim.?
Hi Chris. Yes... interior stainless is handled the same way.Pot metal however needs to be re-plated.
You applied some sort of polishing compound in a stick form to each rotating polishing wheel, but did not describe what that stuff was. Can you clear that up?
Hi Dean,
Gary is applying a buffing compound to the wheel.
The compounds he uses are Eastwood brand although Eastwood has changed their packaging on this item.
Here is a link to an assortment pack they offer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-buff-compound-set-6-different-compounds.html
They also sell each type individually.
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
Thanks
nice work, I have done it, but I dont really have the patience needed, Not to mention polishing is a horrendously messy process.
Nice
Nice video, but do your back a favor and get that buffer motor a few inches higher up
Do you work with aluminum the same way?
Yes straightening aluminum is done much the same way. although
because it is a softer metal we start the sanding steps with much finer
grit papers.
If the aluminum is anodized, it is important to remove the anodize before straightening and polishing.
Here is a video that demonstrates an easy way to remove anodizing:
www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/removing-anodized-finish-013907/
And here is a video that explains the straightening and polishing steps on aluminum:
www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/straightening-polishing-aluminum-013906/
Wrench Safe, Mark
HI! What is he putting on the buffer after he cleans it with the buffing dresser? Does the second buffer need it as well? Thanks! I've got about 3 miles of trim to work on for my 67 Impala. Cant wait....
same for me I have 67 impala convertible to do, this is the best video I have seen on it. the dressing he is using is a polishing compound, you can get it from most tool stores
Bad to the bone brotha. Look very nice
I don't see how you can take 180 grit scratches out with 400.
I didn't know people did this wonder how much a full set would cost to polish and fix
Hello John,
Cost can range dramatically depending on the condition of your stainless and the rates charged by the shop you're having it done at.
If you have the time and willingness to learn, the tools and supplies will often pay for themselves with doing all the stainless on a 50s era car.
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
Work on some door moulds where the hammer won't get to it and tell me how u go
Skill
Good lord man relax and be confident in your skills, or lay off the coffee, great video though thanks for posting it!
i have done just enough of this to be dangerous...
You better be charging more then what the parts are worth
Is this the guy from Breaking Bad?