Great video as usual Matt ! FYI, while sanding stainless or aluminum, don't forget to clean your work piece in between sanding grits and buffing compounds. This ensures there is no leftover sanding grit or compound to contaminate your next step. You can use Windex, paint thinner, etc. to clean the metal. I have both of the Eastwood buffing motors (1 HP and 1/2 HP) and I have great luck with all of the Eastwood buffing compounds. It is tough to get a true flawless mirror finish on aluminum because the metal is so soft and the lest little touch will scratch the metal. Eastwood compounds do a great job of getting the aluminum to a near "hazeless" finish. When you hold your trim in the sunlight and roll the trim in the light and see no "haze" and the reflection is perfect, it is a very gratifying feeling. Eastwood compounds will get you this effect, show car quality for sure. Thanks again guys.
On another vid, the operator used a black felt tip marker over the damaged area before filing. That way the low spots really show up. I actually purchased 2 1956 moldings like the one you have on the bench. About 23 years ago, they cost me $100 each.
This video will help me a lot. But i do have a question on stainless. Is it possible to weld or solder two pieces of stainless trim together then sand/polish it to look like one piece? I have a piece of stainless trim for a 57 Chevy that got crunched and needs welded back together and I'd like to make it look at least passable on the street if i do this. Ideas? Thank you.
I find the easiest way to work out dents and matching the level of the rest of the piece is to use 3" lengths of 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" dia bars, laid on the inside against the dent and hammered against an anvil. This assures the dent is pushed level with the rest and no further. The smaller diameters are also useful for matching ridges. I'd also use a larger anvil to make sure the piece is laying flat.
Yes! You can TIG the two pieces together, then grind, then sand, then polish. It's difficult though without filler. If you ever see industrial kitchens with loooonnngg stainless counter tops that are seamless - this is the process they use.
Links to our products are always in the description. Get a Hammer or Dollie: www.eastwood.com/autobody/hamm... Get a Buffer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-2-... Fairmount Body Hammers and Dollies are designed for precision metal shaping as performed by skilled craftsman for more than 100 years.
@@eastwoodco both links are dead. Your video doesn’t have direct links to the products being used. It also appears some of your body tools have been discontinued. 🤷♂️ Thanks!
That ain't no door ding. You can clearly see the chisel mark the hammer you showed there left. Bahaha. Also, you should always sort the bodyline out first and then the dent (trim in this case)
This guy cant grind the metal its to many steps and wrong way he do it thats why when he polish the metal its stil much grind marks ,, he start way to hard papper and to many steps
Great video as usual Matt ! FYI, while sanding stainless or aluminum, don't forget to clean your work piece in between sanding grits and buffing compounds. This ensures there is no leftover sanding grit or compound to contaminate your next step. You can use Windex, paint thinner, etc. to clean the metal. I have both of the Eastwood buffing motors (1 HP and 1/2 HP) and I have great luck with all of the Eastwood buffing compounds. It is tough to get a true flawless mirror finish on aluminum because the metal is so soft and the lest little touch will scratch the metal. Eastwood compounds do a great job of getting the aluminum to a near "hazeless" finish. When you hold your trim in the sunlight and roll the trim in the light and see no "haze" and the reflection is perfect, it is a very gratifying feeling. Eastwood compounds will get you this effect, show car quality for sure. Thanks again guys.
On another vid, the operator used a black felt tip marker over the damaged area before filing. That way the low spots really show up.
I actually purchased 2 1956 moldings like the one you have on the bench. About 23 years ago, they cost me $100 each.
Cant believe you are sharing this info" Thank you every one at Eastwood.
Thanks for the tips,I do a lil repair work,but everything new really helps.
This is a great video! I will pick up some of your tools and try this.
Great video. I would love if you posted links to the each hammer, missing a few from my kit at home..
There's links in the description below the video.
www.eastwood.com/autobody/hammers-dollies.html?LIVE&+and+dollies
As usual another helpful video. Thanks.
, does this work on aluminum also in the same theory is what you're doing with the stainless
How would you fill a pin size hole, can you use a mig, and if so what gas and wire?
This video will help me a lot. But i do have a question on stainless. Is it possible to weld or solder two pieces of stainless trim together then sand/polish it to look like one piece? I have a piece of stainless trim for a 57 Chevy that got crunched and needs welded back together and I'd like to make it look at least passable on the street if i do this. Ideas? Thank you.
Yes you can TIG weld stainless but it being trim will make it challenging as it's so thin.
I find the easiest way to work out dents and matching the level of the rest of the piece is to use 3" lengths of 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" dia bars, laid on the inside against the dent and hammered against an anvil. This assures the dent is pushed level with the rest and no further. The smaller diameters are also useful for matching ridges. I'd also use a larger anvil to make sure the piece is laying flat.
can you post a pic
Thanks! Appreciate the video. Good job.
Is there any way to weld or solder 2 pieces of stainless trim together then grind or polish it to look like one piece?
Yes! You can TIG the two pieces together, then grind, then sand, then polish. It's difficult though without filler.
If you ever see industrial kitchens with loooonnngg stainless counter tops that are seamless - this is the process they use.
@@eastwoodco Thank you! What kind of filler are you talking about? This helps me a lot.
Thank you for this video!
Nice Job Matt
Can you link the tools you used in this video?
Links to our products are always in the description.
Get a Hammer or Dollie: www.eastwood.com/autobody/hamm...
Get a Buffer: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-2-...
Fairmount Body Hammers and Dollies are designed for precision metal shaping as performed by skilled craftsman for more than 100 years.
@@eastwoodco both links are dead. Your video doesn’t have direct links to the products being used. It also appears some of your body tools have been discontinued. 🤷♂️
Thanks!
Cool looks good thanks man
that's pretty good. If it were me, I'd invest in a better camera man, though.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
How would you file the inverted curve on the 56 Chevy trim.
With a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a sponge using light pressure
That ain't no door ding. You can clearly see the chisel mark the hammer you showed there left. Bahaha.
Also, you should always sort the bodyline out first and then the dent (trim in this case)
Now i know why people spend thousands to get trim done properly/ Thanks.
Ok gracias
This guy cant grind the metal its to many steps and wrong way he do it thats why when he polish the metal its stil much grind marks ,, he start way to hard papper and to many steps