I also own the 585mc pro and the 585 non cooled and have experienced no flare problems. I have had that happen with my Newts in the past. Neighbor's car headlights once. Neighbor with a flashlight another time. The best one was a passing helicopter with his landing lights on. Doesn't take much to cause a flare. Been a fan for many years :).
Awesome video as always! The bright artifact that you didn't know what it was, might be internal reflections from the full moon passing over your big newt rig and shining on the opposite side of the focuser. A dew shield works great to block any stray light leaks entering the front of the tube. I use a 300mm dew shield from Astrozap on my own 10 inch newt rig.
I think its great that you show some of the pre-processed items as its certainly helps those getting into this hobby that we dont just go out, take images for 6 hours, stack, make some minor tweaks, and produce an APOD worthy image. I know when I started 5 years ago i was amazed by what i got but then compared it to others and was like WTF why does mine looks like crap. lots of learning, lots of testing and tuning, but man... I just did M42 for the first time since i first did it 5 years ago and the difference is amazing. As always love the video's!
Beautiful Trevor!!! I own a 585 pro. It's not this one. It's the Player one Uranus C pro IMX585. These cameras really produce amazing images. Definitely worth getting if you don't have one. Great video!!! Thanks for sharing this. Clear skies!!!!
Second comment, from a fellow Canadian to another, I love your work AstroBackyard, I bought this camera but I should've waited for this video. Keep your stick on the Ice
You mentioned the HIPS overlay. I looked in the catalog and DSO section and could not find it. Any more details you can give on this catalog? Great video as always BTW
This camera has a great sensor for astrophotography, I own the Touptek 585C and the Player One Uranus-C and pair them with the Redcat 51. Cool video Trevor 😊
I have a 585 sensor camera (the touptek version) and I've never experienced any issues with it. Although I must note that due to the smaller pixels it's possible that platesolving on longer focal lengths becomes inconsistent, the solution is to simply bin the image in the platesolve settings
So I don't have this camera, but I do have it's uncooled cousin from Svbony the sv705c and I love it. I wouldn't say that I have "replaced" my DSLR since sometimes I might want to get that wider FoV, but the sensor in it is so much better than my old modified Canon 1000D that I hardly bother to use it anymore. I plan to buy one of the cooled cameras with this sensor in it at some point, but even uncooled it is very capable and I think it is a fantastic entry into the budget category. As far as those weird artifacts... I've never seen anything like that so the only thing I can think of would be the sensor reacting to temperature change but I can't explain why it would do that. Anyway, thank you for showing some love to those of us with a limited budget, I plan to buy an Askar FMA180 Pro at some point which I think will be a great companion for this scope when not using my newt.
I have both versions of the 585.Lovely sensor and quite capable. Even though I'm well on the oversampling side with my C6 1065mm FL. Never had an issue with those bright subs.Must be some sort of reflection.
I am using this camera with my 420mm SV503 70ED telescope for a few months and I think they are a good pair since this small sensor eliminates most of the imperfections around the edges of a non-APO OTA.
Hello, my name is Mateusz, I am from Poland. Please turn on the Polish language regarding text options. on your YT channel Older videos had this option, but new videos don't have this option. Regards, you are doing a great job.
I think the bright artefact might have been a very bright Meteor passing through atmosphere? I know that sounds a bit far fetched but it's not inconceivable because there was a couple of reports of extremely bright Meteors around the globe recently?? 🤔 Awesome video as always thanks Trevor! I think the 585MC is a really good opportunity for newbies and not so newbies to try out cooled astro cameras with relatively little expense! ( although I do have to qualify this statement by emphasising the word "relatively". As we all know, our Astrophotography hobby is insanely expensive! LOL )
Nice review! I went for the 533 because it's larger pixels,and I saw something similar, when you turn on the cooling,there's not heating element in the front, which cause dew to form, especially in wet conditions,bellow dew piont,just keep it cool(not below your dew piont shouldn't afftect your images),which is a downside to these cameras.
I am also thinking about affording the Zwo 585. I am still waiting a bit, hoping for a mono version of it. The sensor size is small enough to run it with the 1.25" EFW what would make my first mono camera not too pricey.
I see the USB cable to the camera is coiled. When wires are coiled it introduces inductance so might be the reason why you had some strange issues. I’d go with a short cable if possible.
I have looked at Astro gear, trying to learn about equipment and what works for which type of photography. I looked at sky trackers too as a starting point. As I don't have a DLSR, I borrowed a Canon T1i, just to put it on a tripod and see what I get. Then perhaps play with software to stack. Your video on this dedicated camera is useful for someone like me with no experience whatsoever in Astro photography. Seems the gear adds up in cost real fast It seems astro photography needs a tracker and stacking is needed for good shots. Doesn't the tracker need to work with an intervalimeter to wait for vibration to stop before opening the shutter?
I have a Skywatcher 150p and the imx585 seems.. perfect honestly? I love imaging small deep space stuff and the 2.9um seems to be getting me just perfect to not get oversampled (or ever so slightly oversampled, but I've heard that's fine or even wanted sometimes), it seems it's gonna get me exactly what I want :D + it's cheap, and if I wanna image something larger I can always make a mosaic :p I really wanna try deep sky lucky imaging so I'm excited to get myself one of those soon the FOV actually seems somewhat similar to when I was using a 150/1200mm newt and a Canon 1300D (maybe a *little* narrower i guess)
Hey, it’s been about a year in Astronomy for me. I’ve learned so much so far. I have an 11 inch celestron, no idea the model because it and a 12 inch skywatcher dobsonian were gifted to me a few weeks ago (huge upgrade from my untracked 8 inch dobsonian). Are such great photos possible with my Celestron? It has a wedge Mount and can track quite precisely (May need to recenter once every 2 minutes). Astrophotographers seem to have such vastly different telescopes to mine, yours looks very mechanical and low-profile. Mine is large and clunky however still tracks. I was looking at getting an astronomy camera for my birthday for deep sky as I already used the ASI 224 for planetary with amazing success. Will I need a new telescope with more precise motors? Will I need new software? Please let me know.
Literally was just looking at the specs for this camera. Thanks for this review. Still need to know the relevance of well depth vs dynamic range. Which is more important? Do they correlate? @10:50 you called it a MC585MC-Pro... I don't see a pro version of this camera on ZWO. Tease.
They are related Dynamic range = log2(well depth / noise). Manufacturers only take into account Read noise when making calculations. Higher is better for both.
Higher well depth means longer exposure before saturated pixels. And higher dynamic range means more levels between lowest and highest pixel value possible.
I bought this camera to replace my DSLR on my Red Cat 51 grab and go rig. It hasn't disappointed. I'm currently using it, when clouds permit, to capture the Iris Nebula, so far I have about four hours worth of usable data which shows the bright central area pretty well but I think I'm going to need a lot more subs to show all the faint dust lanes. I control this set up with an ASIair mini and use a Star Adventurer GTi mount but will probably upgrade to an AM3 or something similar later in the year. I have not noticed any of those random light blooms in my images with this camera during the time I have been using it. Here in the UK this camera sells for just over £600 which is about £200 or so cheaper than something like a 533 or a 183 sized sensor cooled camera. The 183 of course suffers from amp glow which is all but non-existent in the cooled 583. I have also used this camera with my William Optics 81GT to capture the Leo Triplet and given the less than favourable conditions at the time I was still happy with the resulting image. This camera is also physically smaller and lighter than most cooled astronomy cameras which is partly what attracted me to it for use in a grab and go set up.
+1 on the pro vs. non pro. I bought ( as my first camera ) the uncooked version because of the price. A bit overwhelmed but I'm sure I'll get the hang of it. Keep up the amazing work.
Hi Trevor, Why are so many people on cloudy nights really down on this camera? Yourself and Cuiv "The Lazy Geek" have made video's of this particular camera that I interpret to be very favourable, especially for those of us just starting to dip our toes into astro-imaging. I am currently using a Nikon D7000 (DSLR) and have 700 mm (F/6.8) triplet refractor from Askar, and the ASI Air plus. I recognize that my DSLR is an APS-C size sensor and that the IMX585 is much smaller. Apart from FOV (which I will deal with by being selective about the type of targets I choose) what is the downside when compared to the IMX533 sensor apart from bit depth (i.e. 12 bit vs 14 bit)? Does that really matter if you are stacking 300 or more subs??? I imagine that in bortle 1 skies, that difference in dynamic range may express itself in some way, in Bortle 4 or worse skies does that even matter????? Would the smaller sensor of the IMX585 not provide more detail for a given FOV over the IMX533 which has a larger sensor - notwithstanding the 12 vs 14 bit dynamic range?????
My Asi585Mc-pro just arrived yesterday. First i wanted to get the Touptek version of it, but they still cant tell when they will release their Astrostation internationally (ASIAir alternative supporting other brands too), so i went for the ZWO version, at least i know what to expect from ASIAir. But when will i have some clear skies, well, not too many of those this year so far.
I guess that the ASI585MC Pro could be a good match for the Samyang 135mm f/2. Most of the usual targets (such as M31, M45, M42, horsehead and flame nebula, rosette nebula, etc) would fit nicely.
The odd frames look like light glare on a lens. I get that when I shoot too close to the moon or if a car points their headlights towards the telescope.
Hi Trevor! I have a few questions about the big newtonian you use, more specifically with the Nexus starizona 0.75x coma corrector. I'm still on the hunt for buying a newtonian, and from many different forums, I've heard that collimating and getting to work an f/4 newtonian is a big hassle, even compared to f/5. This also includes the coma corrector, which if it is actually good and corrects the full image circle well, is going to be expensive. So my question is, what is your experience with using such a giant, how's the collimation, which is even worse at f/3, did you have any tilt issues? I've heard that at f/4 using a cheap laser collimator doesn't work precisely enough to get the full potential of the telescope's detail. One last question, with for example a 4/3 sensor camera that you used in a previous video with the nexus 0.75x coma corrector/reducer, how were the stars on the edge of the field, are they well corrected? Thanks in advance.
I got the asi585 pro in the mail not long ago. No chance to use it yet but it looks promising... Dew and/or the neighbor's lights for the weird frames?
I have the uncooled version which I chose to be an all-round lucky imaging camera (solar, lunar and planetary) plus DSO, and got it long before the cooled version was available. If I had known, would have waited for the cooled version but have no complaints otherwise. Your strange artifact looks like it was caused by stray light. Maybe from a helicopter spotlight? I have definitely not experienced anything similar with my camera.
I’ve had this camera for two weeks now with the Asiair mini and 120 mini guide scope and still trying to figure out all the settings for the best images with it. I would like to know what are your settings with it. I’m running a 90mm scope with 500mm focal length. I just started astrophotography after two years of visual astronomy.
@@stevemint Looking between 8:48 and 8:50 it looks like whatever it was was for about 3-5 frames so about 9-15 minutes (at 3min frames) and the pattern seemed to stay roughly in the image line, if it was anything atmospheric it would have moved and the pattern would have changed. my guess is a reflection or maybe even the camera getting fogged up briefly. there is no built in dew heater in this one (not that many do have it since supposedly the internal heat helps with this) but it could be a thought.
Modern CMOS cameras take so much pain out of imaging. I moved to the Asi533mc Pro from a modified Canon T5i, and although I've lost some field of view, most objects fit beautifully within the 270 and 360mm focal lengths I use my Sharpstar EDPH iii at. So many nights with my DSLR ended up with outright unusable images when the weather warmed up, and darks were a pain.
Hey, couple. I just have this camera and still trying to get the most of it, as I have been a monochrome user for years. First real color experience. I had some issues with channel B, it seems an IRCut filter is needed ( at least for broadband ) and after that and adding well calibrated flats, all's working fine. Still too noise for what I'm used to with mono, even trying different gains ( at 198 and also at 252 ). Haven't seen the issue you mention at the end of the video and have had some temperature and humidity changes during the sessions. May be a light around that you haven't seen before?
I had similar bright frames during the northern lights that happened a few weeks ago. Couldn't really see the northern lights with the naked eye but I took some pics from my phone on astrophotography mode to confirm that's what was happening. Did you take these images during that weekend?
Looks like someone shined a flashlight into your back yard in those frames. Or someone walking around with a headlamp on, see any astronomers out there with headlamps on? :). Either way, pretty sure a transient light source shined up over the top rim of your telescope and reflected off one inner side of the newtonian tube. I have the 585 MC Pro as well and haven't seen it.
Must have been a dew event on the sensor as I know those smaller pro cameras don't have anti-dew heaters on the window. Just my 2 cents. Cheap but interesting camera.
Are any of these compatible with Celestron 130 SLT? I'm new to this and i'm having a hard time finding accesories for my telescope. I would appreciate any response thought thanks.
Compatible with any scope. Jsut that ur scope isn’t ideal for deep sky astrophotography so I would not reccomend u to get an Astro cam for deep sky for ur scope maybe just get a used dslr
Very interesting. Oh, one question : when you take picture with the Canon, you get .cr files, right ? How do you do to turn them into fitts files ? I take pictures of asteroides but Astrometrica does not read .cr files. So I tried to open them in Siril or Gimp and save them into .fitts, but doesn´t work. Any suggestions, please ? many thanks and clear skies.
I have a question, I have an 8" dobsonian telescope with a 1200 mm focal length, what cooled color camera would I need to take long exposure deep sky pictures with. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Trevor, been following your channel for about 2-3 years. I always get confused when deciding on a camera to purchase. I use the Astronomy Tools website to check the CCD suitability to try and get the best SNR and sharpest image possible. It says the ASI585MC is a good choice for my Sharpstar 61EDPH II, but you used your Canon EOS Ra with your Radian and got images of M31. Even when the calculator says that is not a good match ("significant under-sampling"). What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
Nice review Trevor, and really timely. I have the 2600MC Pro and use it with a 61mm and 110 mm refractor. It is awesome. I also use it with a C8 SCT (with 0.63x reducer/corrector). Nice images, but lots of vignetting from this APS-C sized sensor on this set up. Have been eyeing the 533MC Pro for a while now to avoid the vignetting issue (especially if I want to image at the native f10 (2032 focal length). The 585MC Pro has me intrigued, but I am unsure about the a) small pixel size relative to the 3.76um pixel size of the 533, b) 12 bit vs 14 bit ADC of the 533, and c) ability of the 585 to plate solve at 2032mm focal length. Right now I am leaning towards the 533MC Pro, even if it is a little more expensive. Any thoughts on a good choice? Thanks again for your inspiring videos and tutorials! All the best to you, Ash and Rudy. Dr. B from Manitoba, Canada
Does using a smaller sensor size like this allow you to effectively image smaller objects with a smaller focal length telescope without losing quality? For example, if you were to crop the same image after using a DSLR to a similar FOV of the 585 you would would lose detail/resolution correct?
No you don't lose any detail just cropping. Cropping is like cutting the crust off a slice of bread. Your piece of bread gets smaller but it's still the same bread in the middle.
I just love this camera it's so much better than my last one (qhy163c) works great with my short fl refractor. But when i hook it up to my 1500mm focal length newt it shows me giant stars (the bright stars, other stars are fine) i pointed to antares and that star almost took up a quarter of the visual area. Is that expected? Ill play with the gain next time too but my exposure was very short about a sec. Thanks
Btw I shot Jupiter, Saturn and the moon with this combo (300pds newtonian and zwo asi585mc) and they looked great so no issue with the camera and my focus routine. Just the bright stars looking HUGE! Is it because of the small pixels of this camera?
A bird sitting on top of the scope ? I had that experience with the uncooled version. Could not grasp what was going on, but one morning i saw a bird sitting on top o the scope, before it was getting bright.
honestly any i5 or i7 equivalent CPU would work. get a 2TB nVME for storing the project on it while working, and get as much ram as you think you can afford (64GB+) it makes running Blink and WBPP MUCH faster. Thats not to say that you cant do this on an i3, 16GB ram, and an HDD. its just all a matter of how much time you want to wait till you can get to processing.
I want to build something that can process aps-c sized projects reasonably quickly. I've read AMD Ryzen processors are superior to Intel for pixinsight.
@@wildweedle6012 AMD has been better for a long time when it comes to $/performance. I personally run an Intel i9 $12900K. Really its going to come down to 2 things. What's your budget and what can you get for that budget. Regardless of AMD vs Intel, i wouldn't go less than 64GB of ram. My largest project was over 1600 images @91MB each (ASI294mm pro). My Rig was able to get through WBPP in under 4 hours. Most of my projects are not that image intense usually 300-400 and can be ready to process in under an hour
No, for the price per square mm of a sensor, no cooled camera will ever replace a DSLR especially a back-illuminated one unless the prices drop significantly.
True. Then again, no non-cooled camera, even a back illuminated unit, can compete with the inherent noise reduction and overall ease of use of a cooled camera. With the 585 running well under 1000 USD, and the 2600MC with an APSC sensor not a lot more than $1000, it is running right up there with a full frame DSLR or mirrorless, or less. Frankly, when I'm trying to reach with my 103mm F7 scope, I'm very fond of the ASI 533 with the rectangular frame. No worry about coma issues on the edges and great framing for Globular galaxies , single galaxies and smaller nebulae. I'm selling my Canon R series mirrorless - I don't use it anymore...
@@ekalbkr Some good points! But not all DSLR/mirrorless cameras are the same. There are Nikon D5300/D5500/D5600 with their amazing low noise Sony sensors. The R series don't come close to these cameras. And I don't even mention the good old 6D MKI with its big pixels and amazing long exposure performance. Long story short, got money - get a 2600. On a budget - Nikon APS-C or Canon T7i, T8i, SL3. Wide field photography? Hands down a 6D is all that's needed.
3 of us are watching from Cherry Springs right now! Gonna be another great night tonight!
I am so jealous right now... enjoy guys!
Hope yall are having fun!
I drug my feet and missed out on a spot. Enjoy and clear skies
I also own the 585mc pro and the 585 non cooled and have experienced no flare problems. I have had that happen with my Newts in the past. Neighbor's car headlights once. Neighbor with a flashlight another time. The best one was a passing helicopter with his landing lights on. Doesn't take much to cause a flare. Been a fan for many years :).
Awesome video as always! The bright artifact that you didn't know what it was, might be internal reflections from the full moon passing over your big newt rig and shining on the opposite side of the focuser. A dew shield works great to block any stray light leaks entering the front of the tube. I use a 300mm dew shield from Astrozap on my own 10 inch newt rig.
Hey Trevor, got your response letter back to me today, and I just really wanted to thank you for it, it really meant a lot!
So glad to hear that, man. Your letter meant a lot! Clear skies
I think its great that you show some of the pre-processed items as its certainly helps those getting into this hobby that we dont just go out, take images for 6 hours, stack, make some minor tweaks, and produce an APOD worthy image. I know when I started 5 years ago i was amazed by what i got but then compared it to others and was like WTF why does mine looks like crap. lots of learning, lots of testing and tuning, but man... I just did M42 for the first time since i first did it 5 years ago and the difference is amazing.
As always love the video's!
Thank you! Clear skies!
Beautiful Trevor!!! I own a 585 pro. It's not this one. It's the Player one Uranus C pro IMX585. These cameras really produce amazing images. Definitely worth getting if you don't have one. Great video!!! Thanks for sharing this. Clear skies!!!!
I also thinking of buying uranus! why did you choose it over zwo?
I've been using this badboy for a few targets and I LOVE it
Really Helpful video I was looking for my first dedicated astro camera and after seeing your video I think I have an answer
Second comment, from a fellow Canadian to another, I love your work AstroBackyard, I bought this camera but I should've waited for this video. Keep your stick on the Ice
I have 2 pros and an uncooled 585mc. Absolutely love it.
You mentioned the HIPS overlay. I looked in the catalog and DSO section and could not find it. Any more details you can give on this catalog? Great video as always BTW
This camera has a great sensor for astrophotography, I own the Touptek 585C and the Player One Uranus-C and pair them with the Redcat 51.
Cool video Trevor 😊
I've been using the RisingCam 585 for a while before ZWO came up with this one, the image quality is fantastic !
Thanks for this, I have had the same camera for about a month, no weird light events like that.
Glad to hear - thanks!
Got a used imx 571 omegon vetec 571 for 1000 euros yesterday. And the zwo 585 with a smaller sensor cost the same used. Cant wait to test it out!
I've been using the 585 for a couple of months without any odd issues. Paired with a 300mm Askar. I love it.
Great review as ALWAYS! But have to call out the amazing reveal music!! Cheers, and clear skies.
Hey Trevor, can't wait to see you guys at Star Stuff Byron Bay!!
Beautiful Work Trevor!!! Loving The Videos!!!
Price wise, very reasonable. Cooled and easily gets you in the game!
I have a 585 sensor camera (the touptek version) and I've never experienced any issues with it. Although I must note that due to the smaller pixels it's possible that platesolving on longer focal lengths becomes inconsistent, the solution is to simply bin the image in the platesolve settings
It is looking a great camera for people who wants to use asiair (like me) but still thinking about just modifying my DSLR.
So I don't have this camera, but I do have it's uncooled cousin from Svbony the sv705c and I love it. I wouldn't say that I have "replaced" my DSLR since sometimes I might want to get that wider FoV, but the sensor in it is so much better than my old modified Canon 1000D that I hardly bother to use it anymore. I plan to buy one of the cooled cameras with this sensor in it at some point, but even uncooled it is very capable and I think it is a fantastic entry into the budget category.
As far as those weird artifacts... I've never seen anything like that so the only thing I can think of would be the sensor reacting to temperature change but I can't explain why it would do that. Anyway, thank you for showing some love to those of us with a limited budget, I plan to buy an Askar FMA180 Pro at some point which I think will be a great companion for this scope when not using my newt.
I have both versions of the 585.Lovely sensor and quite capable.
Even though I'm well on the oversampling side with my C6 1065mm FL.
Never had an issue with those bright subs.Must be some sort of reflection.
I am using this camera with my 420mm SV503 70ED telescope for a few months and I think they are a good pair since this small sensor eliminates most of the imperfections around the edges of a non-APO OTA.
Also, I didn't experience those strange flashes a single time.
Recently gave in and got the ASI533mc pro, now I see this. Its a great camera, but as a college student on a budget, I should have waited, 😅
Amazing video Trevor! How'd you find the name for the target?
It was listed in Stellarium when I clicked on it! The Sh2 objects are a little harder to find!
Hello, my name is Mateusz, I am from Poland.
Please turn on the Polish language regarding text options. on your YT channel
Older videos had this option, but new videos don't have this option. Regards, you are doing a great job.
I think the bright artefact might have been a very bright Meteor passing through atmosphere? I know that sounds a bit far fetched but it's not inconceivable because there was a couple of reports of extremely bright Meteors around the globe recently?? 🤔
Awesome video as always thanks Trevor! I think the 585MC is a really good opportunity for newbies and not so newbies to try out cooled astro cameras with relatively little expense! ( although I do have to qualify this statement by emphasising the word "relatively". As we all know, our Astrophotography hobby is insanely expensive! LOL )
It works great with fast camera lenses. I'm using it with a Canon 200mm F2.8 lens and some 3d printed adapters.
Nice review! I went for the 533 because it's larger pixels,and I saw something similar, when you turn on the cooling,there's not heating element in the front, which cause dew to form, especially in wet conditions,bellow dew piont,just keep it cool(not below your dew piont shouldn't afftect your images),which is a downside to these cameras.
I am also thinking about affording the Zwo 585. I am still waiting a bit, hoping for a mono version of it. The sensor size is small enough to run it with the 1.25" EFW what would make my first mono camera not too pricey.
I see the USB cable to the camera is coiled. When wires are coiled it introduces inductance so might be the reason why you had some strange issues. I’d go with a short cable if possible.
10:24 looks like condensation is creeping in and eventually evaporating somewhere in the optics.
Thank you! I was thinking it was something along these lines.
i didnt know about blink that is so sick its like timelapse mode
Hi Trevor, can you show us how to take Time lapse as a beginner?
I have looked at Astro gear, trying to learn about equipment and what works for which type of photography. I looked at sky trackers too as a starting point. As I don't have a DLSR, I borrowed a Canon T1i, just to put it on a tripod and see what I get. Then perhaps play with software to stack.
Your video on this dedicated camera is useful for someone like me with no experience whatsoever in Astro photography. Seems the gear adds up in cost real fast
It seems astro photography needs a tracker and stacking is needed for good shots. Doesn't the tracker need to work with an intervalimeter to wait for vibration to stop before opening the shutter?
I have a Skywatcher 150p and the imx585 seems.. perfect honestly? I love imaging small deep space stuff and the 2.9um seems to be getting me just perfect to not get oversampled (or ever so slightly oversampled, but I've heard that's fine or even wanted sometimes), it seems it's gonna get me exactly what I want :D + it's cheap, and if I wanna image something larger I can always make a mosaic :p I really wanna try deep sky lucky imaging so I'm excited to get myself one of those soon
the FOV actually seems somewhat similar to when I was using a 150/1200mm newt and a Canon 1300D (maybe a *little* narrower i guess)
Hey, it’s been about a year in Astronomy for me. I’ve learned so much so far. I have an 11 inch celestron, no idea the model because it and a 12 inch skywatcher dobsonian were gifted to me a few weeks ago (huge upgrade from my untracked 8 inch dobsonian). Are such great photos possible with my Celestron? It has a wedge Mount and can track quite precisely (May need to recenter once every 2 minutes). Astrophotographers seem to have such vastly different telescopes to mine, yours looks very mechanical and low-profile. Mine is large and clunky however still tracks. I was looking at getting an astronomy camera for my birthday for deep sky as I already used the ASI 224 for planetary with amazing success. Will I need a new telescope with more precise motors? Will I need new software? Please let me know.
Hi Astro backyard! I just wanted to ask what is the best and cheap telescope for a beginner? 🌚
Literally was just looking at the specs for this camera. Thanks for this review. Still need to know the relevance of well depth vs dynamic range. Which is more important? Do they correlate? @10:50 you called it a MC585MC-Pro... I don't see a pro version of this camera on ZWO. Tease.
They are related Dynamic range = log2(well depth / noise). Manufacturers only take into account Read noise when making calculations. Higher is better for both.
Higher well depth means longer exposure before saturated pixels. And higher dynamic range means more levels between lowest and highest pixel value possible.
i think that strange light thing was probably a plane going directly overhead causing some light leak on the front element, or possibly the moon?
I bought this camera to replace my DSLR on my Red Cat 51 grab and go rig. It hasn't disappointed. I'm currently using it, when clouds permit, to capture the Iris Nebula, so far I have about four hours worth of usable data which shows the bright central area pretty well but I think I'm going to need a lot more subs to show all the faint dust lanes. I control this set up with an ASIair mini and use a Star Adventurer GTi mount but will probably upgrade to an AM3 or something similar later in the year. I have not noticed any of those random light blooms in my images with this camera during the time I have been using it. Here in the UK this camera sells for just over £600 which is about £200 or so cheaper than something like a 533 or a 183 sized sensor cooled camera. The 183 of course suffers from amp glow which is all but non-existent in the cooled 583. I have also used this camera with my William Optics 81GT to capture the Leo Triplet and given the less than favourable conditions at the time I was still happy with the resulting image. This camera is also physically smaller and lighter than most cooled astronomy cameras which is partly what attracted me to it for use in a grab and go set up.
Id like to see a head to head 585mc vs 585mc-pro. Does the cooling really warrant the price premium?
I have only ever used the 585 (uncooled) for planetary. You're right that would be a cool head to head comparison and I will try to put one together
+1 on the pro vs. non pro. I bought ( as my first camera ) the uncooked version because of the price. A bit overwhelmed but I'm sure I'll get the hang of it. Keep up the amazing work.
I was thinking about getting a 585 or a 533mc as an upgrade for my dslr
Hi Trevor, Why are so many people on cloudy nights really down on this camera? Yourself and Cuiv "The Lazy Geek" have made video's of this particular camera that I interpret to be very favourable, especially for those of us just starting to dip our toes into astro-imaging. I am currently using a Nikon D7000 (DSLR) and have 700 mm (F/6.8) triplet refractor from Askar, and the ASI Air plus. I recognize that my DSLR is an APS-C size sensor and that the IMX585 is much smaller. Apart from FOV (which I will deal with by being selective about the type of targets I choose) what is the downside when compared to the IMX533 sensor apart from bit depth (i.e. 12 bit vs 14 bit)? Does that really matter if you are stacking 300 or more subs??? I imagine that in bortle 1 skies, that difference in dynamic range may express itself in some way, in Bortle 4 or worse skies does that even matter????? Would the smaller sensor of the IMX585 not provide more detail for a given FOV over the IMX533 which has a larger sensor - notwithstanding the 12 vs 14 bit dynamic range?????
My Asi585Mc-pro just arrived yesterday. First i wanted to get the Touptek version of it, but they still cant tell when they will release their Astrostation internationally (ASIAir alternative supporting other brands too), so i went for the ZWO version, at least i know what to expect from ASIAir. But when will i have some clear skies, well, not too many of those this year so far.
I have the 585mc not cooled and it is really nice.
Do you plan on rebuilding your home observatory again.
I wondering if you have any plans for the T. Coronae Borealis supernova if it blows on schedule this year?
I'd definitely buy this if i had a bigger telescope but for my purposes a modded dslr is better.
I guess that the ASI585MC Pro could be a good match for the Samyang 135mm f/2. Most of the usual targets (such as M31, M45, M42, horsehead and flame nebula, rosette nebula, etc) would fit nicely.
Man, when is ZWO going to make one with controls, SD card and a screen? I think there's market for cooled LANDSCAPE ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY
The odd frames look like light glare on a lens. I get that when I shoot too close to the moon or if a car points their headlights towards the telescope.
what a wonderful music. i love it
I have an SVBony 705c (asi585). Similar and useful for EAA.
Hi Trevor! I have a few questions about the big newtonian you use, more specifically with the Nexus starizona 0.75x coma corrector.
I'm still on the hunt for buying a newtonian, and from many different forums, I've heard that collimating and getting to work an f/4 newtonian is a big hassle, even compared to f/5. This also includes the coma corrector, which if it is actually good and corrects the full image circle well, is going to be expensive. So my question is, what is your experience with using such a giant, how's the collimation, which is even worse at f/3, did you have any tilt issues? I've heard that at f/4 using a cheap laser collimator doesn't work precisely enough to get the full potential of the telescope's detail. One last question, with for example a 4/3 sensor camera that you used in a previous video with the nexus 0.75x coma corrector/reducer, how were the stars on the edge of the field, are they well corrected? Thanks in advance.
I got the asi585 pro in the mail not long ago. No chance to use it yet but it looks promising... Dew and/or the neighbor's lights for the weird frames?
I just bought an ASIAir Plus from FLO ( UK ) - after letting them know the newer version is cheaper - they lowered the price to £329
Do you think the 585 might be a nice addition to my 2600? Or would you just crop the larger image of the 2600?
I have the uncooled version which I chose to be an all-round lucky imaging camera (solar, lunar and planetary) plus DSO, and got it long before the cooled version was available. If I had known, would have waited for the cooled version but have no complaints otherwise.
Your strange artifact looks like it was caused by stray light. Maybe from a helicopter spotlight? I have definitely not experienced anything similar with my camera.
You mentioned the HiPS Survey Overlay in Stellarium, how does one use this? I can't find HiPS in the Survey options in Stellarium...
I’ve had this camera for two weeks now with the Asiair mini and 120 mini guide scope and still trying to figure out all the settings for the best images with it. I would like to know what are your settings with it. I’m running a 90mm scope with 500mm focal length. I just started astrophotography after two years of visual astronomy.
Not sure what date you shot on, but I’ve seen similar artifacts when trying to shoot during large aurora events?
good point, though i would think that the aurora events would show up in his night time lapse
@@mechkiller31st Also a good point. I wonder if it might not have been super visible in the time lapse given the nearly full moon and the city lights?
@@stevemint Looking between 8:48 and 8:50 it looks like whatever it was was for about 3-5 frames so about 9-15 minutes (at 3min frames) and the pattern seemed to stay roughly in the image line, if it was anything atmospheric it would have moved and the pattern would have changed. my guess is a reflection or maybe even the camera getting fogged up briefly. there is no built in dew heater in this one (not that many do have it since supposedly the internal heat helps with this) but it could be a thought.
@@mechkiller31st Absolutely right! Good sleuthing!
Modern CMOS cameras take so much pain out of imaging. I moved to the Asi533mc Pro from a modified Canon T5i, and although I've lost some field of view, most objects fit beautifully within the 270 and 360mm focal lengths I use my Sharpstar EDPH iii at.
So many nights with my DSLR ended up with outright unusable images when the weather warmed up, and darks were a pain.
Hey, couple. I just have this camera and still trying to get the most of it, as I have been a monochrome user for years. First real color experience. I had some issues with channel B, it seems an IRCut filter is needed ( at least for broadband ) and after that and adding well calibrated flats, all's working fine. Still too noise for what I'm used to with mono, even trying different gains ( at 198 and also at 252 ). Haven't seen the issue you mention at the end of the video and have had some temperature and humidity changes during the sessions. May be a light around that you haven't seen before?
I had similar bright frames during the northern lights that happened a few weeks ago. Couldn't really see the northern lights with the naked eye but I took some pics from my phone on astrophotography mode to confirm that's what was happening. Did you take these images during that weekend?
I own a Player One version of this camera (Uranus C Pro) and if the zwo doesnt have a dew heater that might be the cause of the foggy image
Looks like someone shined a flashlight into your back yard in those frames. Or someone walking around with a headlamp on, see any astronomers out there with headlamps on? :). Either way, pretty sure a transient light source shined up over the top rim of your telescope and reflected off one inner side of the newtonian tube. I have the 585 MC Pro as well and haven't seen it.
Hi, I’m new to astrophotography. Is this a good camera for RASA 8?
Hey, which survey overlay do you use in stellarium?
The strange light that was on the light frames (Crescent nebula) could be caused by the Moon or some other light source.
Hello, I am using it with an Askar 180Pro. I have doubts with the Offset value, I use Gain 252. What do you recommend? Greetings.
Must have been a dew event on the sensor as I know those smaller pro cameras don't have anti-dew heaters on the window. Just my 2 cents. Cheap but interesting camera.
Are any of these compatible with Celestron 130 SLT?
I'm new to this and i'm having a hard time finding accesories for my telescope.
I would appreciate any response thought thanks.
Compatible with any scope. Jsut that ur scope isn’t ideal for deep sky astrophotography so I would not reccomend u to get an Astro cam for deep sky for ur scope maybe just get a used dslr
I've seen that strange light glow through the frame, when the police chipper flies by....
Very interesting. Oh, one question : when you take picture with the Canon, you get .cr files, right ? How do you do to turn them into fitts files ? I take pictures of asteroides but Astrometrica does not read .cr files. So I tried to open them in Siril or Gimp and save them into .fitts, but doesn´t work. Any suggestions, please ? many thanks and clear skies.
I have a question, I have an 8" dobsonian telescope with a 1200 mm focal length, what cooled color camera would I need to take long exposure deep sky pictures with. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hey Trevor, I am wondering would you have to have an Asiair to work the camera?
No you don't - you can use any camera control software (NINA, APT, SGP, etc.)
@@AstroBackyard okay, thank you!
Hi Trevor, been following your channel for about 2-3 years. I always get confused when deciding on a camera to purchase. I use the Astronomy Tools website to check the CCD suitability to try and get the best SNR and sharpest image possible. It says the ASI585MC is a good choice for my Sharpstar 61EDPH II, but you used your Canon EOS Ra with your Radian and got images of M31. Even when the calculator says that is not a good match ("significant under-sampling"). What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
I meant to say you got great images of M31 with your Radian61 and Canon EOS Ra. I should spell-check before I post.
Nice review Trevor, and really timely. I have the 2600MC Pro and use it with a 61mm and 110 mm refractor. It is awesome. I also use it with a C8 SCT (with 0.63x reducer/corrector). Nice images, but lots of vignetting from this APS-C sized sensor on this set up. Have been eyeing the 533MC Pro for a while now to avoid the vignetting issue (especially if I want to image at the native f10 (2032 focal length). The 585MC Pro has me intrigued, but I am unsure about the a) small pixel size relative to the 3.76um pixel size of the 533, b) 12 bit vs 14 bit ADC of the 533, and c) ability of the 585 to plate solve at 2032mm focal length. Right now I am leaning towards the 533MC Pro, even if it is a little more expensive. Any thoughts on a good choice?
Thanks again for your inspiring videos and tutorials! All the best to you, Ash and Rudy.
Dr. B from Manitoba, Canada
Thank you, Dr. B! All great points, thanks for sharing that!
Does using a smaller sensor size like this allow you to effectively image smaller objects with a smaller focal length telescope without losing quality? For example, if you were to crop the same image after using a DSLR to a similar FOV of the 585 you would would lose detail/resolution correct?
No you don't lose any detail just cropping. Cropping is like cutting the crust off a slice of bread. Your piece of bread gets smaller but it's still the same bread in the middle.
I just love this camera it's so much better than my last one (qhy163c) works great with my short fl refractor. But when i hook it up to my 1500mm focal length newt it shows me giant stars (the bright stars, other stars are fine) i pointed to antares and that star almost took up a quarter of the visual area. Is that expected? Ill play with the gain next time too but my exposure was very short about a sec. Thanks
Btw I shot Jupiter, Saturn and the moon with this combo (300pds newtonian and zwo asi585mc) and they looked great so no issue with the camera and my focus routine. Just the bright stars looking HUGE! Is it because of the small pixels of this camera?
how can i attach a dslr to my lens which is a celestron 130eq
Do u know news of 3 june ..try to capture it
A bird sitting on top of the scope ? I had that experience with the uncooled version. Could not grasp what was going on, but one morning i saw a bird sitting on top o the scope, before it was getting bright.
I am not ruling it out - thanks!
Do you have any info on your pixinsight workstation specs?
honestly any i5 or i7 equivalent CPU would work. get a 2TB nVME for storing the project on it while working, and get as much ram as you think you can afford (64GB+) it makes running Blink and WBPP MUCH faster. Thats not to say that you cant do this on an i3, 16GB ram, and an HDD. its just all a matter of how much time you want to wait till you can get to processing.
I want to build something that can process aps-c sized projects reasonably quickly. I've read AMD Ryzen processors are superior to Intel for pixinsight.
@@wildweedle6012 AMD has been better for a long time when it comes to $/performance. I personally run an Intel i9 $12900K. Really its going to come down to 2 things. What's your budget and what can you get for that budget. Regardless of AMD vs Intel, i wouldn't go less than 64GB of ram. My largest project was over 1600 images @91MB each (ASI294mm pro). My Rig was able to get through WBPP in under 4 hours.
Most of my projects are not that image intense usually 300-400 and can be ready to process in under an hour
980 Wilderman Mount
I currently own an ASI585. It has replaced my DSLR.
The Touptek version is $500 and has HDR 16bit
Better one to get
Trevor.... just curious what operating system are you running PixInsight on.....?
I Love the video 😍
I don't understand how such a small sensor, like to one on the ASI585, can replace a DSLR. The field of views are so vastly different.
ZWO website lists the sensor size as 1/1.2". What the hell is 1/1.2"?
Linnea Point
Can we get a SeeStar S50 or S70 with a 585 sensor please
No, for the price per square mm of a sensor, no cooled camera will ever replace a DSLR especially a back-illuminated one unless the prices drop significantly.
True. Then again, no non-cooled camera, even a back illuminated unit, can compete with the inherent noise reduction and overall ease of use of a cooled camera. With the 585 running well under 1000 USD, and the 2600MC with an APSC sensor not a lot more than $1000, it is running right up there with a full frame DSLR or mirrorless, or less. Frankly, when I'm trying to reach with my 103mm F7 scope, I'm very fond of the ASI 533 with the rectangular frame. No worry about coma issues on the edges and great framing for Globular galaxies , single galaxies and smaller nebulae. I'm selling my Canon R series mirrorless - I don't use it anymore...
@@ekalbkr Some good points! But not all DSLR/mirrorless cameras are the same. There are Nikon D5300/D5500/D5600 with their amazing low noise Sony sensors. The R series don't come close to these cameras. And I don't even mention the good old 6D MKI with its big pixels and amazing long exposure performance. Long story short, got money - get a 2600. On a budget - Nikon APS-C or Canon T7i, T8i, SL3. Wide field photography? Hands down a 6D is all that's needed.
I'm your 750th like 😎
Garden is great but get a hot tub out doors my friend trust me great for stargazing while you get images.
Those bad frames look like a police helicopter flew overhead and lit up your rigs. I get air ambulances over my house a couple times a week