I tried it on a vokey SM5 but I got a very blotchy Wedge. I guess this could come from the nickel or chrome plating. Maybe I haven't removed all of it. The blotchy parts turned blue very fast but lost the color later on. Maybe you have some hints for me.
@@bradreef thanks for replying. I don't get any helpful information out of your "plated wedge refinish" video. It shows no Infos about torching and nickel or steel.
the factory paint fill on some clubs is not an epoxy paint. It can be a pain to remove, and I have used the aircraft paint remover with best success in the past. I found that when removing a powder coating.
Does the face finish lasts long? Won't it get rust quickly? I've seen videos with some kind of electric treatment (I thought it was needed for the refinish to last longer). Thanks!
@@bradreef Yeah I imagined! What about the face? I am from Brazil and I am thinking on doing these refurbs for my clubs (golf clubs are very expensive here).
If you watch my face refinish video, it shows the face refinished with a metal file. You can get a decent finish that way. you can get a cheap blasting setup and use a rubbermaid container.
The ferrule? You typically want to remove and replace. You could heat it a little and slide it up the shaft away from the head. Then replace once cooled.
@@bradreef ok I’ve seen guides that are like dip it in this coat it with that your video was really just short and to the point really well done on the club too Blue pm grinds are gonna look so awesome
@@JaxReds thank you. It was a second video to a wedge refinish. I will put out a few new videos soon. Thanks for the questions. Feel free to give any advice or ask anything
If I can’t sand blast, what’s my alternative? Heavy grit sandpaper? Also, did you clear coat the back? If not, how long does the colour last? I have a putter and wedge project in my very near future & this was super helpful
if you were to heat it up with the shaft still connected would you have to get it reshafted? i know you took yours off, but just trying to avoid doing that
Oh nice! I’m being told I need 7CFM @ 90psi but I figured that was overkill for smaller applications like this. Glad to know it’s working fine for you. Thank you!
This in a mizuno is my dream wedge absolutely beautiful
Wow amazing work sr
I tried it on a vokey SM5 but I got a very blotchy Wedge. I guess this could come from the nickel or chrome plating. Maybe I haven't removed all of it. The blotchy parts turned blue very fast but lost the color later on. Maybe you have some hints for me.
Definitely due to coating. Look at my played wedge finish video for details
@@bradreef thanks for replying. I don't get any helpful information out of your "plated wedge refinish" video. It shows no Infos about torching and nickel or steel.
Man how the hell does the paint hold up to that torch??
My thoughts exactly lol
the factory paint fill on some clubs is not an epoxy paint. It can be a pain to remove, and I have used the aircraft paint remover with best success in the past. I found that when removing a powder coating.
Mine was gone after torching. Same club same version
The factor fill is much more durable than model paint
Does the face finish lasts long? Won't it get rust quickly? I've seen videos with some kind of electric treatment (I thought it was needed for the refinish to last longer). Thanks!
Raw and torched does wear quickly compared to plating. I have other videos where I plate wedges, and that is more durable.
@@bradreef Yeah I imagined! What about the face? I am from Brazil and I am thinking on doing these refurbs for my clubs (golf clubs are very expensive here).
Is there a way to rough up the face without the blasting cabinet that would be somewhat similar?
If you watch my face refinish video, it shows the face refinished with a metal file. You can get a decent finish that way. you can get a cheap blasting setup and use a rubbermaid container.
@@bradreefIs this possible with 116psi pressure?
80 grit sandpaper looks cool too
It burned the black rubbery tape part that hold the club and shaft together still works but any way i can avoid that part getting burned ?
The ferrule? You typically want to remove and replace. You could heat it a little and slide it up the shaft away from the head. Then replace once cooled.
It’s there any other setup required or can you just blast the wedge with a torch?
The better the polish, the better the results. You need to clean really well and then yes, you can blast and non played wedge with a torch.
You can actually do this in an oven, it just takes forever
Steel turns purple just above 500 degrees
@@bradreef ok I’ve seen guides that are like dip it in this coat it with that your video was really just short and to the point really well done on the club too
Blue pm grinds are gonna look so awesome
@@JaxReds thank you. It was a second video to a wedge refinish. I will put out a few new videos soon. Thanks for the questions. Feel free to give any advice or ask anything
hi, is there a way to get a red finish torching? I would love to see a nike red like they used to with their drivers..
Goldish, blue, purple.
Does that change the temper of the metal? I could see it softening it a bit, which on short irons shouldn’t be a problem.
You arent getting it red hot so i havent noticed the feel change. Ive done it many times.
Love the look! How does the blasting do with the milled grinds? Will it change the texture of the face or does it not go that deep?
It doesn't go that deep but can effect the milled face look.
If I can’t sand blast, what’s my alternative? Heavy grit sandpaper? Also, did you clear coat the back? If not, how long does the colour last? I have a putter and wedge project in my very near future & this was super helpful
Once it is blue does it need to be oiled once in awhile?
That will prolong the blue. Also keep it dry.
Hey, did you oil quench this? If not,could I? And also any idea what oil is best for quenching, synthetic/semi/?
I didn't quench this in oil. Be careful if you do that.
@@bradreef have you done before? If so any idea on what oil?
@joshhelliwell4230 i did years ago, and i can't remember. I would search golfwrx.com for the type.
I’ve used one part two-stroke motor oil and one part penetrating oil as a quencher. Looks great
@@bradreefwhy careful with oil quenching? Won’t it help seal the finish and make it last longer?
if you were to heat it up with the shaft still connected would you have to get it reshafted? i know you took yours off, but just trying to avoid doing that
Yes, it turns colors at about 2 times the temp epoxy breaks down.
Brampton Epoxy PRO-FIX 20/20 Long Cure - Golf Club Repair www.amazon.com/dp/B0792MYDF9/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HM4YE2MX8C4Q9ZZG7TMS?psc=1
Good option for reshafting if you torch. The smallest size will do a ton of clubs
Thanks!
What would happen if u torched it first, then sanded and buffed it ?
You would sand off the torched finish.
If you mess up or don’t like the result of the torched finish can you remove it?
Yes. You can sand again
Would acetone work
@@williamphillips3523 not likely
Wow. Bro. I’ve got a set, when can I bring them over for you?
If you are in utah, any time..
Is there a reason you blast after torching?
Just the face. To create contrast, grip, texture.
@@bradreef got it. So if you did an oil can or something after blasting it might just have a bit less contrast. thanks!
Can you tell me what air compressor you have for your blast cabinet? I’m having a hard time finding one at a reasonable price.
I have a kobalt 8 gallon 1.8 hp Air compressor. Not to big, but handles most tools ok.
Ive been using it for 3 years now
Oh nice! I’m being told I need 7CFM @ 90psi but I figured that was overkill for smaller applications like this. Glad to know it’s working fine for you. Thank you!
@@AndrewNHelgeson mine holds 70 psi+ while blasting easily. I prefer 40-50 psi because it is more forgiving for me.
Mine says it is 4 cfm at 90 psi. Fyi.
tried this, but wedge is just glowing orange and not changing colour. any ideas what im doing wrong?
Has to be carbon steel. What type of wedge is it?
@@bradreef thank you so much, tried it on my mizuno mp5’s
@robertosolazzo8763 it is because of the chrome plating. You would have to remove the plating first, which i wouldn't advise
okay thank you, appreciate the help! i also have an old ping karsten answer, that is manganese would that work?@@bradreef
What is the torching for?
Just color changing
What grit did you use?
For the oxide face blast
@@samuelkrause2117 80 grit i believe. You could go higher
@@bradreef ya I’ve used 80 on mine. I found that it faded pretty quickly. Maybe I’m not hitting it for long enough.