Engine Block Preparation
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- Removing Cam Bearings and Cleaning the Ford 302 Engine Block for Reassembly
Episode 595
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00:00 The Goal For Our 302 Build
02:16 Cleaning up Flashing from the 302 Ford block
05:38 How to Remove Cam Bearing from Engine Block
07:51 Block Cleaning
09:01 Cylinder Bore Clean up and Hone
11:57 Scraping and sanding the cylinder block Gasket Surfaces
14:26 Deburring the Cylinder Block. Chasing Threads in the 302 Block. Removing galley plugs from the block
16:31 Please Join our Patreon to Help Pay the Lads!- 
Авто/Мото
Cam is a great presenter, really good explanations and details.
Love Cam and what he brings to ARM!
Thanks! Couldn't do .02c but I tried!
I lucked out a year ago on a replacement 460 fully dressed from a friend of mine. It was a later block with low miles. I couldn't use the heads or intake since I'm carbureted and the donor was injected. I ended up reusing my old heads, but they needed some work.
So with a fresh polish on the crank, machined heads, new bearings throughout, oil pump, water pump, timing kit, carb rebuild kit, freeze plug kit, spark plugs & wires, and a free block I merely finish-honed....I'm still sitting at nearly $2000. That's before a new timing cover, fan clutch, finding the OEM 4350 carb itself, and the various cleaning chemicals. I also salvaged the pistons & rings, tore down and reassembled the lifters and cleaned up the pushrods & rockers as well as the distributor.
The truck this engine is going into also needed new wheels and tires from sitting since 2003. The brakes are all leaking now from dry rot and I'm sure both fuel tanks are trash.
Still gotta ways to go and I believe I've sunk about $5000 into it already. But, I love my 1978 F-250.
I gotta say the most satisfying way to clean a nasty block is a buttload of Zep industrial degreaser and Lye in a giant tote. It takes it straight down to the iron and then you can spray it all right off. Just wear some nitrile gloves. It's about a gallon of the Zep and an 8oz bottle of lye mixed with 20+ gallons of water. Chem-dip is my valvetrain's best friend. I use it to clean all the hardware and fasteners too. Even pistons.
Spray everything down with some thin oil during storage and wrap it up until you're ready for assembly.
Good video lads! Keeping me entertained and informed during the night shifts!
So glad to see the subscriber numbers are still climbing
Woooo hooo!..I was view #351.
Following along as I am about to dive into a 351W rebuild with the same goals. Get it running, well.... for cheap.
Excellent choice Chad. The way to go IMO.
Especially if you're like me.... I'm spending extra cause finding a project would be a problem
I think the editor is great they should really keep it up hell yeah editor!!!!!!
With regards to the oil galleys, another oiling trick is to drill a small hole in one of the plugs right behind the timing chain/gear to help extend its life. There’s my 2 cents.😉 ✌️
Picture? Not understanding and I'm redoing a 289.
@@Meche697 give me a minute I’ll find the time stamp in the video.
@@Meche697 @15:32 he drills it and pulls the plug out. It needs to be a really small hole so it doesn’t compromise oil pressure to the cam and mains.
If a guy doesn't restrain himself during a rebuild the cost can sure spiral out of control. When I'm shopping online I leave the items in the cart a few days and then debate with myself if I really have to have it before I check out. If you change the rod bolts then you are going to need to resize the rod. If it was a stock 351 Cleveland I would change the rod nuts cause they were a known weakness otherwise stock is usually fine. Thank you for the video, I appreciate you.
Praise Jesus, cam had on some glasses for the die grinding.
Funny I’ve never heard of the golden triangle. A buddy and I are doing the exact same thing to a 351 scored from the scrapper. It ain’t cheap but it’s good
I bought ARP head bolts because it was less than the torque to yield head bolts that are from Ford and can use it more than once. One of my head bolts broke
Piston slap 😮
I thought you weren't suppose to use a dingle ball hone?
The 289 I gave you is .040 over, so you have a fallback option.
No need to beef it up, stock is fine....😅
Turmeric for elbow bursitis
Would you consider doing this same video on Ford 5.4 3v?
A W E S O M E
video!!!
Any mods for lowering temperature on these engines ?
I’m not in agreement regarding the conversation about the head bolts. I think the door is left open for people to go to some big box store and grab what looks like a head bolt. The metallurgy of some of the junk metal that comes from only God knows could cause a person to be looking at a considerable number of $$$$$. When there head gaskets blow out, because of using some bad metal alloy. Spend the difference and get some good American steel in some really good head bolts. All the money that will be spent on an engine build comes at a great cost. And for what, a few dollars more for a product that’s made of “ the right stuff”.
Does anybody in comments know a good place to order a crate small block?
I have a 65 mustang I’m restoring and going to swap out the motor when I’m done with the chassis.
I’m not looking for any crazy horse power, but at least a respectable amount (250? 300?). Also fuel efficiency is a concern for me as well.
It currently has a 302 in it. Thanks in advance for any input 🫡
Blueprint engines is one.
Go with a 351W roller block stroker budget build. You will love it.
That block next to Cam looks like a toy, lol
Pull apart engine 400 bucks lol
Why spend all this effort on a engine already 60 over.
400.00 in parts, 20-30k miles it’s a no brainer. It’s still good so what, throw it away just because it’s on its last round??