great video! watched a lot of other people do it and they miss out half of the things that are most important! been sat here for ages wondering why it wasn’t working, watch this once and boom! really appreciate the help
Also, I recommend when re-inserting your aluminum or brass barrel that if it is loose within the inner metal barrel of your replica that you should wrap it with some electrical tape in 2 spots (near the end and near the hop chamber) to secure it better within the inner barrel to keep it from wobbling when firing your gun. Hope this helps
I completely agree, this is great advice and will hopefully help some of you guys out looking for every way to get good consistency. This is a trick for home made barrel stabilisation in a sense. You can also buy barrel stabilisers from most airsoft suppliers if you don't fancy making your own. Thanks for the input.
Thank you so much! this video was very helpful and informational in showing me which hop chamber I should choose, and helped assemble my hop chamber, as an airsoft moding new this video is much appreciated
@@rockbottomairsoft job done mate. Really easy to do and works a dream. Used a maple leaf omega nub too. Now has great adjustment on hop. Was a bit concerned over the prowin hop since seeing a few ropey reviews after I ordered it on patrolbase’s recommendation. But I had zero issues. Thanks for the vid 👍🏼
Glad you liked the video mate. Sorry for late response but I have been in hospital. Yes I've found the same with the Prowin hop units. Got a couple fitted and they've always worked for me.
@@dutchschaefer5787 i just ordered a maple leaf macaron bucking and an omega nub, and im trying to figure out how to replace the nub, any advice on what u did to replace the nub?
Yes it is. The bucking can have an effect on feeding. It's also possible that miss alignment issues can cause problems with feeding. I've had some buckings work well with one chamber and not with others. Hope this helps.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful. The spring on the top of the chamber basically pushes the unit back against the gearbox casing. This creates a better seal and ensures correct positioning. With no spring the unit can move about and will create bad airseal. To get around this you can ditch the spring and use shims around the barrel. Sometimes the spring will be around the barrel on some replicas. I hope this makes a bit more sense.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Nice replica, very nice. I believe they come with a metal hop unit as standard, by all accounts I have heard that it's rather good. If your looking to upgrade you may only need a new rubber and nub combination, if that's the case then just ensure you get an aeg bucking and nub of your choice. My personal favourite is prommy purple and nub. No measurements involved. However if your fancying a nice new shiny chamber as well then I'm afraid it can be a bit of trial and error. As you probably know tolerances are very hit and miss with our replicas, most of the time I have had no problems with an aftermarket hop chamber, but on occasion missfeeds can be a problem. Measurement wise usually is going to relate to nozzle length and hop chamber positioning. You will struggle to judge it before having the chamber to hand. From a lot of communities I have heard that MAX Chambers, while very good, can be picky for setting up. Just make sure you get a version for AR based replicas and in my book rotary units are best and then go from there would be my advise. Hope this helps.
Hi. Apologies for the late reply. I honestly thought i'd posted a response, I guess not. This is a problem that I've come across, sometimes the clip won't click in or secure firmly. The most common fix is to use the barrel clip that was present with the original hop unit. If you've changed the barrel, slight differences sometimes means it will not quite catch. However as long as it's firm in place and not falling off it should still be fine. Hope this helps.
@@rockbottomairsoft Okay thank you for your response. I have switched original SSR4's stock barrel and hop-up chamber for AA 6.03 310mm inner barrel and prowin hop-up chamber (same as in your video). But the gun does make weird noise when shooting kind of like muffled noise and the fps dropped significantly. Is there any way to fix this? Do you know what could be the problem? I would really appreciate any help :). Thank you.
Good video, looking forward breaking down my guns fixing them up. I was also wondering, looking to get a pistol and the one im looking at says it comes with a Co2 conversion kit, so just wondering how easy/hard is something like that to do?
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. Fixing up your own replicas is great, saves money and also allows you to keep your gear in top condition. I hope you enjoy it. With regards to the pistol, some pistols will be ready for co2 out of the box and it may just be a case of buying a new magazine. Some may come with additional parts, such as nozzle, etc that are stronger. Changing these items over is a relatively simple job. Fiddly but not to difficult. Best thing with gbb pistols if your planning co2 is to buy one that is co2 from the start. They tend to be reinforced were required. Co2 can be more taxing on a pistol than green gas.
@@rockbottomairsoft ah okay thank you. Yes the gun says it comes with a nozzle and a spring. Perhaps I keep it gas and I just buy another one in the future. Thanks again.
Hi. I'm sorry, do you mean the nozzle size. I will be honest I'm not sure on the nozzle diameter it's the standard Nozzle. I very rarely replace the nozzle but have in some cases.
I understand. The nozzle shouldn't be to loose, otherwise that could be the source of your air leak. Is it a new bucking or original? If its new then I would ensure its seated on the barrel correctly and if so try a different bucking. If it's old then I would check it's not damaged and replace it either way. Hope this helps.
@@rockbottomairsoft yeah i was an idiot an compared to other nozzle so i bought a different hopup when it was just a bad bucking. It was broken from mail
It can vary dependant on the configuration of the hop chamber but normally if you turn the dial clockwise or down that will apply hop. In other words push the nub down. Many times a hop unit will have an arrow on it to indicate which way to turn to apply hop or it will have numbers on it if its positive click for each increment. I hope this helps
Hi. If you mean The spring to compress the chamber to the gearbox face then the cheapest sometimes free option is to just use the spring out of a pen. You might need to cut it slightly but they are usually the right size. Hope this helps.
You are correct, should be a spring at the top. The new chamber if its a prowin should come with a small grub screw. The top of the chamber is threaded and that's where this particular screw goes. You can attach a spring to that or adjust for a tight fit. The other option is to ditch the spring and use shims over the inner barrel to mate the chamber to the gearbox face. Hope this helps.
Rapeseed oil can react with some rubbers and act as a plasticiser. This will make the rubber softer. This could work well for hop effect but make the bucking wear prematurely. I wouldn't recommend it for orings. Do you find it works well?
great video! watched a lot of other people do it and they miss out half of the things that are most important! been sat here for ages wondering why it wasn’t working, watch this once and boom! really appreciate the help
I'm glad you found it helpful.
Also, I recommend when re-inserting your aluminum or brass barrel that if it is loose within the inner metal barrel of your replica that you should wrap it with some electrical tape in 2 spots (near the end and near the hop chamber) to secure it better within the inner barrel to keep it from wobbling when firing your gun. Hope this helps
I completely agree, this is great advice and will hopefully help some of you guys out looking for every way to get good consistency. This is a trick for home made barrel stabilisation in a sense. You can also buy barrel stabilisers from most airsoft suppliers if you don't fancy making your own. Thanks for the input.
@@rockbottomairsoft yeah, have some previous experience with years of Nerf (foam flinging) moding and some things carry over.
11/10 Video sir, really helped my with replacing my barrel and nub.
Thanks, I'm really glad the video helped out.
Thank you so much! this video was very helpful and informational in showing me which hop chamber I should choose, and helped assemble my hop chamber, as an airsoft moding new this video is much appreciated
That's great. I'm really glad to hear that you found the video helpful. I hope you get good results with your hop chamber upgrades.
@@rockbottomairsoft haha, thanks for the reply, I hope so as well
Look forward to seeing you this weekend mate
Looking forward to it mate. Should be a good weekend.
Nice 1 mate, I’ve got 1 of these to fit and a ZCI barrel this weekend 👍🏼
Awesome. Like ZCI barrels. Hope it goes well.
@@rockbottomairsoft job done mate. Really easy to do and works a dream. Used a maple leaf omega nub too. Now has great adjustment on hop. Was a bit concerned over the prowin hop since seeing a few ropey reviews after I ordered it on patrolbase’s recommendation. But I had zero issues.
Thanks for the vid 👍🏼
Glad you liked the video mate. Sorry for late response but I have been in hospital. Yes I've found the same with the Prowin hop units. Got a couple fitted and they've always worked for me.
@@rockbottomairsoft get well soon mate, hope you’re ok. Keep the vids coming.
Thanks again 🙏🏼
@@dutchschaefer5787 i just ordered a maple leaf macaron bucking and an omega nub, and im trying to figure out how to replace the nub, any advice on what u did to replace the nub?
Just the tutorial video i needed 👍 thanks a lot
No problem, I hope you found it useful.
Dear RockBottom, is it possiable to have miss feed after changing bucking? Thanks
Yes it is. The bucking can have an effect on feeding. It's also possible that miss alignment issues can cause problems with feeding. I've had some buckings work well with one chamber and not with others.
Hope this helps.
Thanks on the fast reply, actually lips a little bit to long, so Ill try today to send them little bit or fix with dremel and see the result. Thanks
Great explanation. Going to try it myself. Only the spring part seems bit unclear.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful. The spring on the top of the chamber basically pushes the unit back against the gearbox casing. This creates a better seal and ensures correct positioning. With no spring the unit can move about and will create bad airseal. To get around this you can ditch the spring and use shims around the barrel. Sometimes the spring will be around the barrel on some replicas.
I hope this makes a bit more sense.
@@rockbottomairsoft yep. Sounds clear. Thnx again!
hi great vid , i have a e&c delta 416 , what mesurements do you take to order a new unit ,thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Nice replica, very nice. I believe they come with a metal hop unit as standard, by all accounts I have heard that it's rather good. If your looking to upgrade you may only need a new rubber and nub combination, if that's the case then just ensure you get an aeg bucking and nub of your choice. My personal favourite is prommy purple and nub. No measurements involved.
However if your fancying a nice new shiny chamber as well then I'm afraid it can be a bit of trial and error. As you probably know tolerances are very hit and miss with our replicas, most of the time I have had no problems with an aftermarket hop chamber, but on occasion missfeeds can be a problem. Measurement wise usually is going to relate to nozzle length and hop chamber positioning. You will struggle to judge it before having the chamber to hand. From a lot of communities I have heard that MAX Chambers, while very good, can be picky for setting up.
Just make sure you get a version for AR based replicas and in my book rotary units are best and then go from there would be my advise.
Hope this helps.
Hello. Do you have any idea why the barrel clip wouldn’t click in place? I just got it and have no idea what to do with it.
Hi. Apologies for the late reply. I honestly thought i'd posted a response, I guess not. This is a problem that I've come across, sometimes the clip won't click in or secure firmly. The most common fix is to use the barrel clip that was present with the original hop unit. If you've changed the barrel, slight differences sometimes means it will not quite catch. However as long as it's firm in place and not falling off it should still be fine.
Hope this helps.
@@rockbottomairsoft Okay thank you for your response. I have switched original SSR4's stock barrel and hop-up chamber for AA 6.03 310mm inner barrel and prowin hop-up chamber (same as in your video). But the gun does make weird noise when shooting kind of like muffled noise and the fps dropped significantly. Is there any way to fix this? Do you know what could be the problem? I would really appreciate any help :). Thank you.
Good video, looking forward breaking down my guns fixing them up. I was also wondering, looking to get a pistol and the one im looking at says it comes with a Co2 conversion kit, so just wondering how easy/hard is something like that to do?
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. Fixing up your own replicas is great, saves money and also allows you to keep your gear in top condition. I hope you enjoy it. With regards to the pistol, some pistols will be ready for co2 out of the box and it may just be a case of buying a new magazine. Some may come with additional parts, such as nozzle, etc that are stronger. Changing these items over is a relatively simple job. Fiddly but not to difficult. Best thing with gbb pistols if your planning co2 is to buy one that is co2 from the start. They tend to be reinforced were required. Co2 can be more taxing on a pistol than green gas.
@@rockbottomairsoft ah okay thank you. Yes the gun says it comes with a nozzle and a spring. Perhaps I keep it gas and I just buy another one in the future. Thanks again.
How big is the nozzle to your gun in diameter
Hi. I'm sorry, do you mean the nozzle size. I will be honest I'm not sure on the nozzle diameter it's the standard Nozzle. I very rarely replace the nozzle but have in some cases.
Nope I just have air seal problems between the nozzle and hop up so i was kinda wondering if the nozzle was supposed to be a slightly loose
I understand. The nozzle shouldn't be to loose, otherwise that could be the source of your air leak. Is it a new bucking or original? If its new then I would ensure its seated on the barrel correctly and if so try a different bucking. If it's old then I would check it's not damaged and replace it either way.
Hope this helps.
@@rockbottomairsoft yeah i was an idiot an compared to other nozzle so i bought a different hopup when it was just a bad bucking. It was broken from mail
Great job, thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
If you turn the hop up clockwise is that pushing the nub down and anti clockwise
It can vary dependant on the configuration of the hop chamber but normally if you turn the dial clockwise or down that will apply hop. In other words push the nub down. Many times a hop unit will have an arrow on it to indicate which way to turn to apply hop or it will have numbers on it if its positive click for each increment.
I hope this helps
@@rockbottomairsoft Many thanks for the info very helpful.
No problem at all.
Hello master!
please link the spring part. Thanks
Hi. If you mean The spring to compress the chamber to the gearbox face then the cheapest sometimes free option is to just use the spring out of a pen. You might need to cut it slightly but they are usually the right size.
Hope this helps.
the factory chamber has a spring on a slat, right?
the new chamber has no bar or spring. that's why I don't understand :) but thank you :)
You are correct, should be a spring at the top.
The new chamber if its a prowin should come with a small grub screw. The top of the chamber is threaded and that's where this particular screw goes. You can attach a spring to that or adjust for a tight fit. The other option is to ditch the spring and use shims over the inner barrel to mate the chamber to the gearbox face.
Hope this helps.
Niiice 👌🤝🤝
hey rock bottom. u sound like piranha from escape from tarkov. is that you? haha
Hahaha, not last time I checked, but maybe.
I use Canola Oil.
Rapeseed oil can react with some rubbers and act as a plasticiser. This will make the rubber softer. This could work well for hop effect but make the bucking wear prematurely. I wouldn't recommend it for orings. Do you find it works well?