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3d Printing With HIPS For Beginners (High Impact Polystyrene)
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2024
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In this video we continue along with our series on printing with various filaments. Specifically, HIPS filament which is a pretty awesome filament that often gets overlooked. We discuss how HIPS is used in the real world and commonly used in 3d printing. I take you through the hardware required to print with this filament as well as the slicer settings I recommend. Of course, we will also do some printing and I will share with you my results.
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Time Stamps:
0:00 - Intro
1:09 - About HIPS
2:19 - Why to 3d print with HIPS
5:56 - Hardware recommendations for printing with HIPS
8:48 - Slicer Settings
9:58 - Printing
13:19 - Conclusion
15:14 - Outro
MEK is a great bonding agent for it, very easy to “ chemically weld” parts together. It’s used a lot in the hobby world.
It's also quite a dangerous chemical that smells great, making it even more dangerous. I hope you have a fume hood :)
Love the move to more printable recycled materials.
Me to. It really makes me happy and I hope that as the methods are more optimized that the price will also come down for these types of filaments.
I e been printing with hips for two years it’s great for drone parts, has just enough flex, it’s light and the finish is nice. Btw you can use a lil dlimonene to smooth the part with a spine he brush.
How interesting, I didnt even think of that for the sake of smoothing the parts if you just apply some to the outside. That is awesome. I may need to try this.
Love it that it can be recycled and retain many of the first run properties. Cheaper filaments made from recycled plastics that are both using up plastic pollution and generating useful filament is part of the big solution to some of the worlds major problems.
Absolutely, 3d printing is such a great technology but nobody likes waste. The ability to recycle materials and make usable filament is so great. I am hoping for much more of this in the following years.
Im using HIPS for low price, low density (light weight parts), easy to print - low warping with ender 3 in chamber, and very strong parts. Much stronger then ABS and much easy to print. Also great heat resistance and no stringing, bloobing like Petg. Hips prints are clean like PLA prints. Ender 3, 105C bed, 245 hotend, capricon ptfe. Printer in simple wooden box.
Ohh I forgot why I use hips Non-hygroscopic: whereas almost all other filaments are hygroscopic and will deteriorate over time if left out in open air, HIPS is not hygroscopic
That is definitely a huge perk. Especially when we are talking about functional filaments moisture can be a HUGE paine.
pain*
HIPS is most definitely hygroscopic.
I've found HIPS to be a excellent material for functional parts.
I get recycled HIPS from a local supplier here in Montreal. Nefilatek also up-cycles industrial waste HIPS and makes a great filament. The finish is fantastically good and I am looking to use it on my next 3D printer build for some structural bits.
@@andrewferrier5453 I've got a CR10S Pro V2 in an enclosure, with a PEI flex bed and a direct drive Microswiss hot-end. I can get the enclosure to heat to about 30-32 C just passively. I have since fallen out of love with HIPS, as structurally I find ABS much more worth the effort. But the finish on HIPS is hard to beat.
... yet another great, great video, Daniel! I've been hesitant to try printing with HIPS, due to knowing nothing about it. But, I do print regularly with ABS. Now I'm thinking of giving HIPS a try...especially if it prints even only a bit more easily than ABS. Haha
Thanks again for working so diligently and sharing your findings! (...are you paying attention, MH???) 👍😉
Yeah I was really impressed with how well this material printed. It would be fun to take HIPS and ABS and run the same print on the same machine and just see if there is a difference as far as adhesion in the exact same scenario. :)
@@ModBotArmy Hmmm...good idea! Once I get some HIPS, I'll do just that and let you know!
Great info thank you someone was going throw away good filament and my cousin salwaged 4 spools 3x white pla and a pink hips never printed with hips thank you! have a great day!
I really appreciate how you include your mistakes in your videos. I just bought my first and its a Voxalab Aquila, but I am holding off on mods that I have seen, per your other video that of course, I instantly want to put on during assembly. Love the content cheers.
Thanks--I bought some a while back but never got around to using it. Your video has given me the nudge I've needed to try it. Hopefully my experience will match yours.
Limonene is also a terpene often found in Marijuana
Great video and hope to see more filament vid. In addition to profiles, slicer makes a difference. Had some ringing on the Artillery, switched from Cura to IdeaMaker, ringing gone. PrusaSlicer also had less.
Paul, I do agree. I am very happy with Cura but as you mentioned there are other great slicers out there. I am glad you were able to remove the rining and would love to know on a technical level what the cause was.
As a Modeller (Plastic kits) HIPS is a great help as it will adhere to any Kit that uses polystyrene plastic, and can be used to produce things like Stands (for painting or display) and internal, non-visible parts like Wing Spars also. Yes,MEK will cement it, but MEK is HIGHLY Carcinogenic - Try Tamiya Extra Thin cement or any other equivalent, right up to modeller's tube glue. Tamiya also make a Limonene cement....
I use HIPS as a support material for PETG. It snaps right of after cooling.
This is something I have never heard of before but would love to experiment with. Thank you for the info.
I unse Pla as Support for Petg works awesome
Actually hadn't heard of this one and just got the video fed up to me by youcensor today. Thanks for the good info, this could def solve some problems without costing a fortune like other solutions!
I found that HIPS can be used as a good support material for PETG on a multimaterial printer. They can print at the same temperature but they do not like to stick together. So you can slice it with 0 gap between the support and the part and use HIPS for the interface layer. The supports peel off really easily and the underside of your part is almost smooth.
The tricky thing is if anywhere on your part the PETG starts to be layed on the HIPS only, not starting from an existing PETG point (like overhangs bigger than 90 degrees). Then the non-sticking nature of the two will cause problems. This can be helped by slowing down this part of the print. I successfully printed a PETG sphere resting in a HIPS bowl.
You also need to print a relatively big purge block to make sure your PETG part is not contaminated - layers would not stick well. But if you only use HIPS on the few interface layers the purge block is empty through most of its height so the waste is not crazy high.
I tried to see if the PETG part with HIPS support can be separated by dissolving the HIPS in acetone. It sort of works. The HIPS gets soft much quicker than the PETG and the PETG can go back to fully hard after a few days of drying. It just smells bad. But since acetone is easy to get this could be usefull for some complicated geometry.
HIPS dissolves very easily in d-limonene, this would be a better choice than Acetone for dissolving support structures!
@@GoughCustom I know that d-limonene would likely work better (if the PETG has no problem with it). But I did not want to buy it just to try it and acetone was available at home anyway. I know polystyrene can be easily eaten by aceton so I tested it and it seems usable too. But you only need it if the geometry of the part does not alow removing the supports or breaking them into smaller pieces and removing those. Because the PETG does not hold onto the HIPS almost at all with most geometries nothing has to be dissolved.
@@hebijirik Ah gotcha! I had forgotten how easily polystyrene dissolves in Acetone, interesting that HIPS does not share the same property!
@@GoughCustom Yes, I was surprised too. The HIPS gets very soft in minutes while the PETG softens in hours and not nearly as much. But the HIPS does not disappear like polystyrene would. Also I was using black HIPS and the acetone around it was getting a little darker but it remained nicely transparent unless I left the HIPS in it for a very long time. So I guess there are two chemical processes going one. One is quick and just makes the HIPS soft, maybe by breaking the polystyrene part of it. One is slow and gradually would break it apart but it would take way too long.
Also when you remove the badly deformed HIPS out of the acetone and let it dry it hardens to at least its original hardness. I might try smoothing a HIPS print in acetone vapor one day. It could work.
You are the second person to comment saying that it works as a great breakway material for PET-G. This is awesome! I had not heard of this before and it taught me something new. I will have to give this a go at some point.
Love those Hips! :)
This video has be very informative about the benefits of HIPS, I would imagine that the applications for cosplay/prop construction with the filament could yield some increasingly durable products with thicker insetting and wall layer parameters in the slicing process.
I've got to get some HIPS now!
I’ve been printing for about 4 months and I really enjoy your vids. I have an Ender 3 pro that I modded with the BTT board, tungsten carbide nozzle and Creality glass build plate. I haven’t tried anything but PLA because I think I need to learn more about Cura (settings) first.
I installed a BL touch but I can’t find a basic enough video that assumes I know nothing (which I don’t lol) and can teach me how to set it up!
Thanks for the vid!! 🥓✌🏼
Teaching Tech has done a few videos involving various BTT boards and a Bltouch. Chris Riley/Chris Basement is also another great 3d printing information channel.
Thank you very much for watching and your comment. Also welcome to the wonderful world of 3d printing. I agree with Jon. Chris Riley is an awesome dude and super knowledgeable with firmware configuring and the different boards. He may have something. i do not watch teaching tech as much but he may be another channel that covers this :)
A *Tungsten Carbide* nozzle? Holy smokes, I didn't even know those existed, at least you'll never need to worry about it wearing out.
I'm adding that to my wishlist, though I'll need to find a way to defeat my Hardened Steel nozzle first
Great video, THanks for sharing! Now I think I may want to experiment with HIPS just a tad.
another benefit is that hips dont lie
Another great video buddy 👍
Thank you John 🙌🙏
would love to see you try out wood infused filament....
Like a wood PLA or something like that? I havent printed with that material in a long time I would love to see how/if it has evolved.
13:00 that is an advantage of only having one printer I never accidentally the wrong Cura profile m
Haha true. Not normally something that happens but it really made a huge difference with this material
Idea: Lost HIPS metal casting (add a sprue to your hips printed part, coat with ceramic slurry and sand - several coats for thick shell - dissolve the part out the mould with D-Limonene, heat Pewter in a crucible with a blow torch, pour into mould, allow to cool, crack off the plaster - voila, cast metal part!! Could also use melted coke cans
Really interested in trying this one out! Btw abs has lower tensile strength than pla and petg ;)
I use hips as a base print. Refrigerator condiment shelfs and other parts are made of HIPS.
How awesome! Condiment shelfs are crazy strong to I have seen them drop with a ton of weight and not shatter.
thanks for the clip learnd a lot
Thanks for the video, will try Hips. 👍
Awesome please let me know your experience :D
what a great product the recycled hips. thanks for sharing this content. at 240c, that's right at the edge with the ptfe tube. I'm going to guess that if you print for a few weeks, the ptfe will need replacing.
You may need to trim the tube, not throw it away. It just needs to be a little bit longer than necessary.
I have printed quite a bit with PTFE lined hotend at 245 (many months) with little issue. Perhaps it depends on hotend design as well as the level of cooling the hotend has.
Thanks for this sharing
Absolutely thanks for watching.
Would a glass bed work with hips?
Great vid with good info! and I wanted to say the twitter whistle was definitely less bothersome. I appreciate the direct community involvement.
On a side note, I'd like to hear how you're WEEDO X40 is doing. Have you done anymore printing since the initial tests?
I am cheap, so I doubt I am going to be purchasing that filament anytime soon, but I do appreciate that it is recycled. $20 is what I consider high priced but acceptable priced filament if the need is there, otherwise $14-16 is generally what I pay for a roll of pla or petg. It was another great video, and I will no doubt look into this material some more. I found some $20 rolls of hips on Amazon.
BTW I didnt notice any difference in the Twitter sound, but again I wouldnt worry much about it. I am use to it, I expect it, and I would likely miss it if it was gone.
Damn I did lower it 5 decibels more haha. Well I appreciate you checking and will just say it is something that some hate and others dont mind. Sort of like how quickly I speak. Some love it because they have no problem listening at that speed while others want me to slow down. I think I am just going to keep doing my thing with little tweaks as I go :) I mentioned in another comment I am hoping that this company can lower the price as they grow and the process is refined.
@@ModBotArmy All you can do is be you, I enjoy your videos, and you said your channel has grown quite a bit lately so you must be doing something right!
I will keep a look out on this filament, I really do like the thought of using recycled filaments. If they can get it reasonably priced I would grab a roll of it.
Great video, thanks, very informative!
I really like that it’s recycled. I only have a resin printer, but really try to avoid using supports whenever possible. I just hate the idea of contributing waste plastic that literally served no useful life once it was all processed and done
Thank you for sharing the vid. I am wondering how can we mix the HIPS with another natural material to make a new filament and print a new product. If you can give me an idea, I appreciate it.
NICE !!! I cant wait to learn :) thanks mang !!!
Thanks for watching :)
Wow, interesting material. No test of the impact thou
Thanks for sharing :-)
I need to get something setup to be able to test impact strength. When I have a garage that will definitely be on my to do list :)
It's really soft so how on earth does it have high impact strength?
Because soft materials absorb impact better instead of fracturing.
Very nice Daniel... When printing new projects, obviously what type of filament is an early thought.... I looked at HIPS prices a few months back, and they're reasonable.... I've not had a use for it yet, but I might buy a spool to try, and add a new merit badge on my belt! You doing PEEK next?
Haha I was in cub scouts like 20ish years ago and would love to have merit badges. Oh man, that material is so expensive and requires such an intense printer setup. Maybe at some point but I think I have quite a few materials before I make the leap. I have watched it print and have a basis on how to print it but dont have a machine that can print it.
Being a polystyrene, would I be right in thinking that HIPS can be melted using poly-cement glues, of the sort typically used for plastic model kits such as from Revell or Airfix/Humbrol?
I wonder how well this material would work for 3d printed aircraft.
How is the weight comparison to PLA?
I do not think that the manufacturer has a TDS (quick search didnt see it) Found this from Rigid Ink "For example, it has a specific gravity of 1.05 g/cm³. This is comparable to the density of ABS."
Hi Daniel, great informative video.
I have just started trying to print with HIBS, I have a standard Ender3V2 , I have only just started and with the print head at 250o and the Bed at 90o. this issue I am having is bed adhesion.
what do you suggest?
Hi! Thanks for the vid. I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with an original enclosure. I can't smell any odor even tough the printer is 1m away. I went with a glass bed because at 80 C the magnetic field decreases and the 3DLAC spray for adhesion. My issue is that for some reason the part is expanding. The part has perpendicular walls and when it's done, I end up with a 40-45 angle from the bottom to the top. A complete mystery. Settings are 205-210/105 with 45mm/s speed.
Hey Modbot, do you possibly have any merch with your logo?
Hey! I sure do :)
Here is a link to the store:
store.streamelements.com/modbotarmy?cartId=FjX_wUrcTMqtK7GFontrmw
great video
So if I understand correctly, it's properties is a midway between nylon and polycarbonate, but printable with bowden / a lined hotend, and non hygroscopic?
where is the link to the speaker he mentions?
Based on my experience with a sample of this same Closed Loop HIPS, it totally reeks. If you don't like the smell of ABS, you'll hate the smell of this stuff. Printed fine though.
what brand and resolution machine are you using ??????
Im going to buy this filament the location is so close to my house
i haven’t seen you on my recommended page since u were making those xbox 360 flashing videos
Wow that was a long time ago haha 6+ years. I wonder why this one popped up and not others. Happy to see you around!
I want to see more new materials !!
haha I have quite a few more lined up.; I am really trying to break up the content between machine reviews, material printing, general info, projects etc. So many topics and so little time x)
Is this going to fall apart if it gets even slippy wet?
ASA at 250, 85 bed and 0 fan speed except for bridging.. near zero warp without enclosure
And HIPS is awesome to sand.
I just received my 1 KG spool and am trying to print some parts for my OmniaDrop. I had a jam with a .25 nozzle, I cleaned it out and will try again tomorrow. Has anyone had problems with small nozzles with the recycled filament? I has similar problems with Greengate recycled PETG.
Sometime it is about type of nozzle, form (for some reason I have issues with 0.4 ruby nozzle on some PLA and PBT) and retraction, full metal vs PTFE heatbreak (full metal have huge problems after PLA due to PLA sticks to everything). If you don't want problems with some material use bigger nozzle hole or some plated copper nozzles (sometime I'm using 0.8 when some material can jam or I want to print much faster).
@@vladimirseven777 Thanks for your suggestion. I'm going to try a bigger nozzle,
Do u know of any 3d printer repair shops?
I do not :( I feel like there is a huge market for this. May be worth looking locally for an experience hobbiest that may want to make some extra cash. Just a thought.
I have no idea why that PEI is sticking to the bed with a temp over 80 C.
Hi can you please share your cura profile for ender 3 direct drive sir? Really appreciate it thx
It is pretty much the built in Cura profile with just a different retraction setting that I grabbed from MicroSwiss. If there is a specific setting I am happy to provide it.
What lavalier mic are you using?
Rhode wireless go. I love it
In your opinion how does it compare to Prusament ASA ?
Believe it or not I have not uses Prusament haha. I have a ton of filament but will likely give some a try at some point.
HIPS don't lie -- Shakira
I appreciate this comment.
All this mentioning of hips gave me very inappropriate thoughts...
8:25 - $25/pound - yikes.
1 pound = 0,453592 kg
@@Mister_Stork $55 x 0.453592 = $24.94756
@@JohnJones-oy3md you’re right, but nobody is using pounds for filament spools, that’s why I commented 😉
I saw a price of $30 flash by, then I checked the link it was for a .5 KG spool. A 1 KG is $55. I may try , but not a cheap filament
Wasn't always this year. A little over a year ago, you could get ABS for $10, PLA for $14, PETG for $18, and TPU for $26. HIPS was the same price or less than ABS. I'm guessing after Trump and all that "Ghyna" rhetoric and tariffs, inexpensive filament is a thing of the past 😔
Tip, turn off auto focus on your camera
When recording myself I can’t. With me moving and not having an easy way to monitor having it adjust is better than recording an hour and the entire thing is not usable/out of focus. The goal is to have a bigger place with my cam hooked up to a large tv I can monitor while recording myself in manual. (Not happening for a bit)
My guy your beard is uneven. It's kinda distracting for someone with OCD 🤣 great video though appreciate the information.
hi man. i love your chqnnel, but i coundnt hold it any more :). please fix you camera focus. its driving me crazy to see your background moves.
It is really tough to do. Since I shoot myself and do not have the space for a large screen to monitor if I am in focus. I did manual at one point and decided it wasnt worth it. I would look like I was in focus on the camera then take it to edit and none of the footage was usable. One day I will find a solution but that is the reason why it is that way for now.
titulo en español y video en ingles ¬¬
Slow dwon talk to fast
Greats from Holland 👍👍👍
Haha, that's funny, cause I played the video at 1.5x speed because it was too slow for me. Cheers!
Haha you can slow down the playback :p. I talk fast because I have so many ideas and thought that it is the way my brain works.
@@FritzAdler lol I do the same. When I watch videos I watch them quick and skip around. I do not like slow videos because of how I am wired. I think it is just personal preferance really.
I would prefer to see in your video less of you and more of a close up camera showing the actual printing going on.
haha if you go back 12 months ago and then come back to this video you will be saying (nevermind you are doing it). It is tough to get enough broll for a 16 minute video. I can get closer up shots or longer of the prints but it is impossible to please everyone.
I have ZERO layer to layer adhesion... it literally break aparts in my hands