I always like the use of common recyclable materials and making useful items from them. Re-use and re-purpose get a big tick from me! Your wood gas stove is nice and I like that you have made the pot stand able to attach to the stove for carrying. It is based on traditional wood gas design but this doesn't mean it's perfect. There are even commercial models like yours. Based on the time to boil 500ml, I think a small mod will get your stove boiling double that (1L) in about the same time, which is a massive efficiency gain :) It has been shown that adding secondary air to create a secondary combustion above the primary makes a hotter and cleaner flame. This means you need another row of holes in the outer can that more or less align with the top holes of the inner can. This added air will actually also create a stronger updraft between the walls. 1:4 ratio of primary to secondary air seems to be the sweet spot so you may have to add more holes to the top row of the inner can as well. With a secondary air intake, I think you will be able to ditch the flame concentrator, so making your stove even less complex. This is because the air inflow from the secondary holes has the effect of concentrating the flame. Why not give it a try and post a video of the mod? !!
Thank You for an excellent video! You did a great job explaining the process and I just completed the smaller version I saw on your other videos. It was great to see the blue flames actually coming out of the ports...wow, it really works well. Great science project for the kids and something that will come in very useful on camp outs. Thanks again.
I will be definitely be making at least one of these, possibly several, for each of our emergency go bags. Great design, nice adaptation of the expensive commercially produced products. - The Armchair Adventurer
Many thanks Dale, I have been using the same stoves for a few years now, so they appear to last well!, I've done a few other videos on this subject if you are interested, ie a burn test and some different sized models. Thanks for watching & taking time to comment. ATB Pete
Great video...I just made one of these but made the larger outer can out of a paint tin.....the inner circle of the lid is identicle to the diameter of a regular bean can so was pushed into it lovely....then the lid/can combo pops back into the top of the paint can as normal.
Great video if I hadn't bought one I'd have had to build one. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this awesome how to video. Be safe and be lucky. Wol.
Superb Pete. I thought I had liked and commented on this one but looks like I watched but didn't, so here I am lol. Inspirational. I have a £12 Chinese made wood gas stove which is my go to stove when I can't have an open fire and it is marvellous but going to follow your instructions and try this. Thank you. Happy wandering. Paul :)
Outside Edge Bushcraft Agree Pete. My stove works like a dream when filled with cat litter wood pellets, burning for up to an hour but less when out and using fuel collected from the local environment, but still works really well. I guess knowing how long the stove burns when using wood pellets has raised the bar too high lol. I have seen and commented on the other wood gas stove videos....all excellent. Thank you :)
I made my own wood gas stove back in '93 in scouts out of a coffee can. It worked fine, but rusted out after a year. You can't find tin cans like that anymore. Considering the new stainless stoves that are out you're better off buying one of those.
That was a very, very informative explaination of how the stove works, great idea Pete on how to build it as well, you had me glued to the screen. atb Ray
I wonder if your improved performance is not simply the result of an extra 1/2" - 3/4" of chimney/draft effect? So claim that a space below the main burn pot provider a mixing chamber for the fresh air and the wood gas but I would think that the chimney draft would straight up. I think this has been demonstrated effectively by Heath Putnam with his Vortex 5.4 running with a glass outer container where you can easily see just where the air and smoke go. The vortex 5.4 with the version3 pot/chimney stand will generate top temperatures of 1500 degrees F and as such would be the most efficient design that I have seen on line to date. Certainly a good reference. Total smokeless burn from start up to finish. The vortex action really helps to mix the air gas mixture for a more complete burn.
Dear "Bushcrafter". I really appreciate this very explanation, and your closeness to laugh at small things. At first, I did not believe that the smoke gases would flow downwards, thougt the draught is carrying the hot air upwards due to thermics, but I had listened not well enough. (plese excuse my swedish english). By making some stoves, and one that was close to this design, I was impressed by the power, and somewhat dissapionted by the soot-production, caused by the yellow flames, due to the lack of oxygen. I tried different kind of firewood, as well as pellets. They produced lots of power, lasting from 30-50 minutes in flames, and stayed hot by charcoal burning long times afterwhat. So how to get better performance of oxygen flow? I tried bigger, as well as more holes for the 2:nd burning, and got some better results, but I envyed your good burner, and went back again, and listened as carefully I could to your lecturings. And!!! There it was! When you said "at the end of the burning", I coped with the underpressure, due to the draught, caused by hot plates that heated the airflow, AND that the air intake in the outer shield was placed somewhat upwards relative to the holes in the burning chamber. This is a splendid explanation, and very good engineered. I have to eat a lot of ravioli, to get hold of more material, that I know fits, but I can take that. Despite my shortcomings in english, I would anyway say are a real Britanian, and would like to upgrade the title somewhat. I would claim a toast and cheer in bacon and eggs, and thereby upgrade the Bushcraft 400, to The "Bush-Spitfire 400". It burns like a Merlin, but fires just small pieces of wood in the benefits mankind.
Thanks so much for your kind words, I hope you enjoyed the journey and the Spitfire 400 idea is bloody fantastic !! LOL !!! Thanks for watching. ATB Pete
@@outsideedgebushcraft3017 Well. Mr Bushcrafter/Pete. I have certainly enjoyed your productions, what are made with love and humour, as your laughings when the dog beauties gets nosey as dogs are. Mutual love, is double love. Anyway. I am old and stiff nowmore, and don't use to get into the woods like the old days, but I love to watch it. As an engineer, I really appreciate theese gasifier stoves. They are super for long terms of hiking/scouting of cousre, but even more as catastrophal use, due to the efficiency, and simpleness. I assume that such a stove can have a lifetime of at least 100 firings, when made of nothing more than food cans. And that is good enough. I have used Trangias, and loved them since the 60-s, as well as Optimus Hiker kerosene stove, that is fantastic when being up in mountains, where there is seldom ty find fireables. But firing availables is a very good idea, when being in such regions. They are just there, waiting to be fired. As a stubborn old engineer, I will not give up until I find cans, that fits the purpose, or I have to modyfi what is needed. This is magnificient, so please be proud of that. However, there are evil forces raging the world at lots of places nowmore, and the knowledges of stoves like this could make it more easy to survive for manyers. A lot more could be said about this technique, and it's possibillities, but I close this for now. I happen to have a more delicate concern, that maybe is not allowed at RUclips, though it is political, but I will try anyway. We in Sweden are very concerned about the Brexit, and what could cause lot's of sorrows mutuallly. Usually we love to hate the same things, and loves to love the same funs, stupid or not, but real funs have to be stupid enough, to be laughable. Just as we love here. I really hope, we will stick together in the futures. So best wishes, from a Swedish ol stubborn bastard. Bjoern the bear.
@@outsideedgebushcraft3017 Dear "Bushcrafter/Pete. I just have to make a report, from my close to replica apparatus. Due to lack of perfect cans, I have to stick with, some savings of empty cans, and they are all of "rip-off lid" styles. They fits upon eachother very well, but the lack of two real end-lids/bottoms, the very bottom of the outer shell have to be closed somewhat else. So I took another piece of tin, including bottom. Saved some 20mm, cut about 8mm division, lots of 6mm longitudinal slits, that were bent inwards, and thereby created a stand for the stove, as well as sealed the bottom gas flow. An emegency solution, I thought, but it also seemed to isolate some heat, though the brick underneith, were not as hot as usual afterwards. Every other dimensions were made from your instruction movie, with one small exception. I took some freedom, to bend the plate somewhat at the 4mm gas-holes, trying to create some vortex of the flames, and it went very well. The flames were concentraded more centerly, and I could not see any difference with or without the flame- concentrator plate. Maybe the plate may reflect some more heat into the fire, and benefit the burning efficiency somewhat, but the vortex of flames worked very well to center it. I have only burnt this once, and the plastics/paints stinked as usual. However, I put some chunks 20mm of oak and birch att the bottom, and filled up with wood pellets for a try. It took fire well, by using a home made firestarter as a paraffin dipped cotton cloth, that is used for womens beauty removals. (excuse if this was fun) not meant. No other tinder this time, though I was curious about the pad-trick. After some 5 minutes, the gas jets started, and I put a pot on. An old alu thing, containing 600 grams of water, and no lid, so it took some 10 minutes before boiling, and then it cooked 45 minutes, until the flames ended, and the boilings went off totally. There were still charcoals glowing in the bottom, but in no use for cooking anymore. Besides this little rest of charcoal, it is a fantastic stove for cookings. By using some maths, it created some 250W, when it produced flames, and burned wood at an efficiency of some 34%. This may seem low, but it is not. A short chimney lite this may not produce more draught, but it is i very well used. A campfire is very lossier, an may come up to some 1% efficiency, so the wood is well spent in this stove. I used pellets, and they don't allow enough air passage, so I will try twigs next time. My garden produces lots of those, and I just have to collect them for free energy, and nice outside cookings. These would also burn cleaner, due to better airflow. So briefly. This very first burn, smelled bad by burning off plastics and paints, but I will gratify you for all geometrics that made this into the ballpark. It really works well. Burning pellets, is not the best fuel to burn smokless, but it stays long, and leaves more charcoals rests than twigs/cloven woods as I can see. This burn, created no smoke or soot at the pot, but instead some smoothe tar coating, but so what? We can't get something for nothing. The 34% efficiency, tells, that some unburnt is last in exhausts. But that is another task. We would not want a fan, driven from electrics, or likes. This is a very good stove, in it's simplicity, and is many times better, as well as a real fuel saver than a simple wood fire. However wood fires are more feelgood makers than any stove, but that is a complete other thing. Everyone that have tried an apple grilled over a fire, or a sausage on a pin, knows the secret of a little fire. Outside coockings, always tastes better than indoors, at home. No one would love hot-dogs and coffe, otherwise than outdoors. But that is my own simple opinion. I give you double High-fives for the oven, but as they are busy by that, I can only give one high foot for all cozy outdoors things. Both feet would make me unstable, and cause something bad. We would not break Newtons law. Would we? Some law-breaks punishes emideatly, and this is one of the worst. I have tried... Warm hugs to you Mr Bushcrafter/Pete.
The concept of gasification presented is incorrect. As air is drawn from the larger cylinder, it goes throught the small holes at the bottom of the inner cylinder and some goes through the side to exit at inner cylinder top holes. The air that goes through the small hole at the bottom of the inner cylinder is the primary air for gasification that goes up (not down) through the inner cylinder and mixes with the secondary air coming into the inner cylinder at the top.
Thanks, I liked your idea on hole position for the outer can but had lost the link, picked it up from FloridaBoy Survival's post and plan to combine the approaches as I have the cans he used.
I haven't tried it yet and do intend to but might I suggest that rather than canceling out the interior burn floor and allowing the burn to rest on the bottom of the outer can, you simply raise the bottom holes on the outer can to create the same vortex while still keeping the fire up off the bottom. then if the burn chamber burned through you'd still have a contained fire to prevent it getting away from you.
Finally got round to making a ( slightly modified) version of this stove, and can say that it does exactly what it says on the tin(sic). I put it to test alongside a cloned model of the Silver Fire Scout (I think it is) and the Bushking won hands down (and used considerably less fuel). An overlooked feature of this stove is its surprising lightness, which, for us type of campers, is a welcome bonus. As for the drawbacks? Well, I for one am having a frustrating time getting the thing started. I really need to experiment with my choice of starter kindling, and to this end, I think I need to invest in a proper bush knife. Another slight "downer" with the stove I imagine, is its probable limited shelf life. However, seeing as the Bushking (and its "offsprings") are relatively easy and fun to make, and cost nowt, these are minor considerations.
Fantastic!! really glad you tried it, really glad you liked it, that's what it's all about. As for the getting it started issue, I like to use a hard wood main fuel batonned to around a quarter of an inch or so with a starter fire made from fatwood,ordinary pine,birch bark and a little of whatever the main fuel is (cut really fine). I know it sounds like a bit of a faff, but if you forage as you go it soon becomes second nature, as for shelf life I'm still using the first ones I made and they are still going strong. thanks for watching & the feedback ATB Pete
There is no down draft of the wood gas. Old myth that refuses to die. Hot air rises. What you see is a secondary burn of the gasses as pre-heated fresh air comes out the jets. Many home wood stoves also use secondary burn to increase efficiency.
O.K. Edge, But you should admit that you have the skills of an illicit Afgan gun maker, Who has served a grueling ten year apprenticeship, So while Joe average is contemplating this, He can purches a can of liquid gas, And burner required, With the money you will save by not buying band aids and gloves, And cans of soup. And cutting appliance. But that is a nice little stove you made Edge. Over.
What I find hard to understand is why the gases in the burning chamber go down through the unburnt wood, through the bottom holes and back up between the walls. I know it happens because I saw it on a video of a wood gas stove with the outer container made of glass. I guess there is a low pressure zone at the bottom that sucks these gases downward but I would never have thought that this suction would be strong enough to overpower the convection force generated by the combustion heat.
Are you still using it these days or have you done anything to improve it (not that it need it)? Bu far the best portable stove video i have seen on utube. I will be replacing my alcohol stoves
I AM still using the very same stoves actually, l have been improving lighting methods to ensure a light first time result, I may do a video on that subject in the future, I also may do a mark 2 stove with a slightly improved air flow, but for now the mark one's are doing fine, thanks for watching ATB Pete
Really nice video. Will try it all out this weekend. Any tips on keeping the drilled holes neat. In the past when I've tried this sort of thing the drill bit often catches and tears the tin a bit, making it messy? Already looking for the burn test as a yard stick for my own efforts. ;-) Andy
Willingstone Thanks Andy,as for the drilling issue, what I always do is firstly make sure I have a good starter hole,this keeps everything 'on target' then hold back on the pressure so that the bit can cut it's way rather than punching through. Hope this helps All The Best Pete
Outside Edge Bushcraft further to that, with larger holes (say about 8mm) it sometimes helps to drill a smaller hole first for example pierce a starter hole and drill a 4mm, also use a high speed setting ATB pete
what are the other dimensions like outside can holes from the bottom and burn chamber how far the top holes from the top and the bottom hose from the bottom
The outer 8mm air intake holes should be drilled on a centre line 2.5cm from the bottom of the can, the top jet holes on the burn chamber should be 10mm from the top & the gas outlet holes at the bottom of the burn chamber should be 6mm from the bottom, these measurements include the steel ring at the top & bottom of the can, hope this helps. ATB Pete
Hi only just found this video, so I apologise for the late question So with your stove design, per se, if you made 2 stoves with exactly the same size cans, identical fuel wind conditions etc, side by side. the only difference being the two designs you show in the video. How long does each burn last ??? thanks for the video though, very informative and much appreciated. Gary
I'm not quite sure I understand the reasoning behind your question, but depending on the fuel available (ie soft or hardwoods) and moisture content, wind conditions etc. I usally get around 30 to 40 minutes actual burn time with a further 15 to 25 minutes simmering time on the charcoal embers. Hope this helps & thanks for watching ATB Pete
the top jet holes on the burn chamber should be 10mm from the top & the gas outlet holes at the bottom of the burn chamber should be 6mm from the bottom, these measurements include the steel ring at the top & bottom of the can, hope this helps. ATB Pete
Rather than making a pot stand, why not just cut out the centre of the peanut-bowl where it joins the foot and serrate the edges of the bowl, makes the whole thing out of one piece.
Yet another interesting video this one Peter ; one that I have watched several times. The first time I watched it I was tempted to have a go at making one myself. However, because I realised where the idea came from I baulked at the notion, and, because of the price for an "off the shelf" wood gasifier, bough tone off e bay for about a tenner. A Chinese clone of the SilverFire Scout if I 'm not mistaken. Recently however, I have become increasingly intrigued at your claim that the modified version is an improvement on the old. Did you actually make two versions of your stove to verify this claim? My interest is purely academic, I am not trying to "put you on the spot" as it were. My thought process then ran to wondering if your design IS a better one than (say) the SilverFire Scout, how come the commercial manufacturers haven't picked up on this and improved their designs also. After all, the physics is there as you have shown.
I had watched numerous video's of people constantly and randomly putting fuel into both their 'off the shelf' and homemade woodgas stoves when it occurred to me to perhaps 'optimise' the burn chamber fill (as far as is reasonably practicable) and to control the airflow and see if a longer more controlled burn could be achieved on one fill of fuel, after a few prototypes I arrived at the one in this video, it works really well for me, I get enough from one fill of fuel to cook a meal, make a hot drink or both depending on the size of stove, whether it it out performs any other stove I can't say as I don't have one to compare. I would imagine the commercial manufacturers take the belt & braces approach to their design, whereas the 'Bushking 400' takes a little time to master lol!!
Well, it certainly impresses in the video. If I can discipline myself, I may have a go at making one some day. I have had a go at similar projects with "penny stoves" , a " hobo stove" and a couple of windshields with pleasing results. To be frank, my Chinese SilverFire Scout clone I found to be a little disappointing. This I might add, I think, has nothing to do with my technique or poor choice of fuel.
Nice stove. The theory make since to me and it also gives you a larger burn chamber. Do you know? The American equivalent cans (tins) ? American size holes?
Edward Sanford Hi Edward, firstly thanks for your comment, and secondly unfortunately I have no idea about American can sizes having never been to the U.S. however I can give you the dimensions of the ones I use and I'm sure you could find something similar. The inner burn chamber is 108mm tall with a 74mm diameter and the outer is 115mm tall with a 85mm (within 1 or 2 mm) hope this helps All the best Pete
Made one this afternoon. Tried the 300g burnchamber with 400g outer tin. I am quite satisfied how it worked out - your instructions were great! just my tinder was not ideal (i used beech as main wood and birch bark + beech as tinder/fire starter and needed to start the fire 2 times...) - i'll need to find some fatwood soon... And I will probably try to make a portable wind protector wall... Any ideas? Here is a little foto from the test :-) www.directupload.net/file/d/4283/jbwnh853_jpg.htm I fired it up 2 times and got each time about 24 minutes burntime - quite ideal for some cups of coffee as i found out. To have time to make bacon&eggs after I will definitely try the 400g burn chamber too..
+J. Charles Nice job!! and looks you got some nice 'blue' flame, the larger sizes ARE better for cooking, however I will shortly upload a video showing a 300gm. doing coffee & a grilled cheese sandwich, and tomorrow I,m recording a field test with a 165ml. burn chamber & 300gm. outer ha! ha! . As far as the starter fires go, practice makes perfect , the more you do the qucker & easier it becomes, and by the way nice pot stand, keep me posted All The Best Pete
+Outside Edge Bushcraft Thanks! You are right, the secondary burning was quite blue most of the time. The top-down fire method from your video seems a lot cleverer to me than constantly feeding such a stove with sticks. But I also think about building a slightly bigger one with an opening in the potstand for being able to put in more fuel in case the primary fuel runs out and one wants to keep the fire going a little more to finish cooking a meal. Yeah, I will practice starter fires with pleasure and keep you updated how it goes with my builds :) Def looking forward to your new videos!
+Outside Edge Bushcraft By now I did some more tests, and you are right with practice it gets a lot easier to start up the fire. Also fatwood makes it very easy. I went in a small pine forest near to me and was lucky to find a pretty old pine tree stub full of fatwood. So there will be enough for starter fires for the rest of the year. That plus birch bark seems to me to be better than any grill lighter that one can purchase..
your choice of primary venting and main air inlet does not make sense. If you place the primary air holes at the bottom side of the can and the main fresh air inlets below that point then the hot gas from the primary holes will rise because it is hot and this will create a draft below the primary holes pulling up cold fresh air from the main fresh air holes warming this air along the way and mixing it with the gas. The way you have it you are dumping cold air on top of the hot wood gas and cooling the gas before it can enter the chimney and rise, this is not a good idea because it is the combination of the hot gas and the top flame which power your pump which draws both wood gas and fresh air up the chimney to the secondary vents. Having the primary vents above the fresh air intake is a more logical and a better way of getting the job done. All of my builds show that on start up the stove built with the primary above the fresh air inlet will start more quickly and not smoke. Once the stove is hot there is not much difference both positions can work well. To me a fast start up and no smoke are key goals.
I've recently discovered your channel and really enjoy them! If you want to boost your membership and views, please join my buddy's Facebook page, Grid Down Living. We share many things related to off-grid life. If you join the page, you are free to post links to your RUclips videos. Cheers, mate!
Sorry I’m ridiculously late to the party here, but I’ve just started looking at camping wood gasifier stoves. There seems to be some debate as to how these stoves work, mainly…is this an updraft, or a downdraft…what’s the route of the wood gas once formed?…what gases are coming up the outside sleeve and through the jet holes? I did try finding explanations elsewhere on the internet, but all the diagrams illustrate the various designs of large home generator wood gas stoves, rather complicated industrial looking large structures…there appeared to be 4 different designs…including updraft and downdraft. But this didn’t really help in finding an answer to how these small stoves work. Then I found this video ruclips.net/video/8ycDGWy8rik/видео.htmlsi=UlRtyTxEWG95tw4e. Watch from 2:40. He used a glass outer, and smoke from a joss stick (?), to demonstrate when the gas travelling up the outer sleeve was just air, the stove performed the same as in its original state…so these camping wood gasifier stoves are updraft, not downdraft stoves. Have a look see what you think. Do you have any online references I could look at that shows how the stoves work? Thanks for your videos, it’s fun seeing how teeny tiny it’s possible to make them!
I always like the use of common recyclable materials and making useful items from them. Re-use and re-purpose get a big tick from me! Your wood gas stove is nice and I like that you have made the pot stand able to attach to the stove for carrying. It is based on traditional wood gas design but this doesn't mean it's perfect. There are even commercial models like yours. Based on the time to boil 500ml, I think a small mod will get your stove boiling double that (1L) in about the same time, which is a massive efficiency gain :) It has been shown that adding secondary air to create a secondary combustion above the primary makes a hotter and cleaner flame. This means you need another row of holes in the outer can that more or less align with the top holes of the inner can. This added air will actually also create a stronger updraft between the walls. 1:4 ratio of primary to secondary air seems to be the sweet spot so you may have to add more holes to the top row of the inner can as well. With a secondary air intake, I think you will be able to ditch the flame concentrator, so making your stove even less complex. This is because the air inflow from the secondary holes has the effect of concentrating the flame. Why not give it a try and post a video of the mod? !!
Thank You for an excellent video! You did a great job explaining the process and I just completed the smaller version I saw on your other videos. It was great to see the blue flames actually coming out of the ports...wow, it really works well. Great science project for the kids and something that will come in very useful on camp outs. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, nice idea about the kids project
ATB pete
I will be definitely be making at least one of these, possibly several, for each of our emergency go bags. Great design, nice adaptation of the expensive commercially produced products. - The Armchair Adventurer
Many thanks Dale, I have been using the same stoves for a few years now, so they appear to last well!, I've done a few other videos on this subject if you are interested, ie a burn test and some different sized models. Thanks for watching & taking time to comment.
ATB Pete
I watched the burn test also, very impressive and informative. Thanks again.
Great video...I just made one of these but made the larger outer can out of a paint tin.....the inner circle of the lid is identicle to the diameter of a regular bean can so was pushed into it lovely....then the lid/can combo pops back into the top of the paint can as normal.
This is one of the best useful uploads I've ever watched. My weekend bushcraft project thank you.
Thank you Dalin you've made an old Lady happy I'm off to make me one......
My pleasure
ATB Pete
Great video if I hadn't bought one I'd have had to build one. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this awesome how to video.
Be safe and be lucky. Wol.
wols wildcamping Thanks wol, just out of interest What one did you buy?
Pete
I went for the Wild stoves wood gas stove mk2. I saw Luke on the outdoorenthusiast101 channel using one and thought I'd give it a go.
Nice demo. Interesting mod, seen it working in the stew vid. Very straight forward easy to follow. Thanks for sharing.
Far the best video I have seen on this subject.
Tanks Gary, nice of you to say so, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Superb Pete. I thought I had liked and commented on this one but looks like I watched but didn't, so here I am lol. Inspirational. I have a £12 Chinese made wood gas stove which is my go to stove when I can't have an open fire and it is marvellous but going to follow your instructions and try this. Thank you. Happy wandering. Paul :)
Well I've made a few now, all different sizes. With these it's all about maximizing the the burn time with one 'fill' of fuel, hope you enjoy
ATB Pete
Outside Edge Bushcraft Agree Pete. My stove works like a dream when filled with cat litter wood pellets, burning for up to an hour but less when out and using fuel collected from the local environment, but still works really well. I guess knowing how long the stove burns when using wood pellets has raised the bar too high lol. I have seen and commented on the other wood gas stove videos....all excellent. Thank you :)
Hey man. This is the most detailed, explanatory, most simple, awesome wood gas stove that I’ve seen on RUclips. A big applause for you buddy👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I'm really glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Thanks for watching ATB Pete
I made my own wood gas stove back in '93 in scouts out of a coffee can. It worked fine, but rusted out after a year. You can't find tin cans like that anymore. Considering the new stainless stoves that are out you're better off buying one of those.
That was a very, very informative explaination of how the stove works, great idea Pete on how to build it as well, you had me glued to the screen.
atb Ray
I wonder if your improved performance is not simply the result of an extra 1/2" - 3/4" of chimney/draft effect? So claim that a space below the main burn pot provider a mixing chamber for the fresh air and the wood gas but I would think that the chimney draft would straight up. I think this has been demonstrated effectively by Heath Putnam with his Vortex 5.4 running with a glass outer container where you can easily see just where the air and smoke go. The vortex 5.4 with the version3 pot/chimney stand will generate top temperatures of 1500 degrees F and as such would be the most efficient design that I have seen on line to date. Certainly a good reference. Total smokeless burn from start up to finish. The vortex action really helps to mix the air gas mixture for a more complete burn.
Good quality kind of instruction!
Thankyou, and thanks for watching
ATB Pete
That was the best and simplest build I've seen, gonna make one tomorrow, subbed 👍
Good use of the work aperture, very informative vid Pete
Dear "Bushcrafter". I really appreciate this very explanation, and your closeness to laugh at small things. At first, I did not believe that the smoke gases would flow downwards, thougt the draught is carrying the hot air upwards due to thermics, but I had listened not well enough. (plese excuse my swedish english).
By making some stoves, and one that was close to this design, I was impressed by the power, and somewhat dissapionted by the soot-production, caused by the yellow flames, due to the lack of oxygen. I tried different kind of firewood, as well as pellets. They produced lots of power, lasting from 30-50 minutes in flames, and stayed hot by charcoal burning long times afterwhat.
So how to get better performance of oxygen flow? I tried bigger, as well as more holes for the 2:nd burning, and got some better results, but I envyed your good burner, and went back again, and listened as carefully I could to your lecturings. And!!! There it was!
When you said "at the end of the burning", I coped with the underpressure, due to the draught, caused by hot plates that heated the airflow, AND that the air intake in the outer shield was placed somewhat upwards relative to the holes in the burning chamber.
This is a splendid explanation, and very good engineered. I have to eat a lot of ravioli, to get hold of more material, that I know fits, but I can take that.
Despite my shortcomings in english, I would anyway say are a real Britanian, and would like to upgrade the title somewhat.
I would claim a toast and cheer in bacon and eggs, and thereby upgrade the Bushcraft 400, to The "Bush-Spitfire 400". It burns like a Merlin, but fires just small pieces of wood in the benefits mankind.
Thanks so much for your kind words, I hope you enjoyed the journey and the Spitfire 400 idea is bloody fantastic !! LOL !!!
Thanks for watching. ATB Pete
@@outsideedgebushcraft3017 Well. Mr Bushcrafter/Pete. I have certainly enjoyed your productions, what are made with love and humour, as your laughings when the dog beauties gets nosey as dogs are. Mutual love, is double love. Anyway. I am old and stiff nowmore, and don't use to get into the woods like the old days, but I love to watch it.
As an engineer, I really appreciate theese gasifier stoves. They are super for long terms of hiking/scouting of cousre, but even more as catastrophal use, due to the efficiency, and simpleness. I assume that such a stove can have a lifetime of at least 100 firings, when made of nothing more than food cans. And that is good enough.
I have used Trangias, and loved them since the 60-s, as well as Optimus Hiker kerosene stove, that is fantastic when being up in mountains, where there is seldom ty find fireables.
But firing availables is a very good idea, when being in such regions. They are just there, waiting to be fired.
As a stubborn old engineer, I will not give up until I find cans, that fits the purpose, or I have to modyfi what is needed. This is magnificient, so please be proud of that.
However, there are evil forces raging the world at lots of places nowmore, and the knowledges of stoves like this could make it more easy to survive for manyers.
A lot more could be said about this technique, and it's possibillities, but I close this for now.
I happen to have a more delicate concern, that maybe is not allowed at RUclips, though it is political, but I will try anyway.
We in Sweden are very concerned about the Brexit, and what could cause lot's of sorrows mutuallly. Usually we love to hate the same things, and loves to love the same funs, stupid or not, but real funs have to be stupid enough, to be laughable. Just as we love here. I really hope, we will stick together in the futures.
So best wishes, from a Swedish ol stubborn bastard. Bjoern the bear.
@@outsideedgebushcraft3017 Dear "Bushcrafter/Pete. I just have to make a report, from my close to replica apparatus. Due to lack of perfect cans, I have to stick with, some savings of empty cans, and they are all of "rip-off lid" styles. They fits upon eachother very well, but the lack of two real end-lids/bottoms, the very bottom of the outer shell have to be closed somewhat else. So I took another piece of tin, including bottom. Saved some 20mm, cut about 8mm division, lots of 6mm longitudinal slits, that were bent inwards, and thereby created a stand for the stove, as well as sealed the bottom gas flow. An emegency solution, I thought, but it also seemed to isolate some heat, though the brick underneith, were not as hot as usual afterwards.
Every other dimensions were made from your instruction movie, with one small exception. I took some freedom, to bend the plate somewhat at the 4mm gas-holes, trying to create some vortex of the flames, and it went very well. The flames were concentraded more centerly, and I could not see any difference with or without the flame- concentrator plate. Maybe the plate may reflect some more heat into the fire, and benefit the burning efficiency somewhat, but the vortex of flames worked very well to center it.
I have only burnt this once, and the plastics/paints stinked as usual. However, I put some chunks 20mm of oak and birch att the bottom, and filled up with wood pellets for a try.
It took fire well, by using a home made firestarter as a paraffin dipped cotton cloth, that is used for womens beauty removals. (excuse if this was fun) not meant.
No other tinder this time, though I was curious about the pad-trick.
After some 5 minutes, the gas jets started, and I put a pot on. An old alu thing, containing 600 grams of water, and no lid, so it took some 10 minutes before boiling, and then it cooked 45 minutes, until the flames ended, and the boilings went off totally. There were still charcoals glowing in the bottom, but in no use for cooking anymore.
Besides this little rest of charcoal, it is a fantastic stove for cookings.
By using some maths, it created some 250W, when it produced flames, and burned wood at an efficiency of some 34%. This may seem low, but it is not. A short chimney lite this may not produce more draught, but it is i very well used. A campfire is very lossier, an may come up to some 1% efficiency, so the wood is well spent in this stove.
I used pellets, and they don't allow enough air passage, so I will try twigs next time. My garden produces lots of those, and I just have to collect them for free energy, and nice outside cookings. These would also burn cleaner, due to better airflow.
So briefly. This very first burn, smelled bad by burning off plastics and paints, but I will gratify you for all geometrics that made this into the ballpark. It really works well.
Burning pellets, is not the best fuel to burn smokless, but it stays long, and leaves more charcoals rests than twigs/cloven woods as I can see.
This burn, created no smoke or soot at the pot, but instead some smoothe tar coating, but so what? We can't get something for nothing.
The 34% efficiency, tells, that some unburnt is last in exhausts. But that is another task. We would not want a fan, driven from electrics, or likes.
This is a very good stove, in it's simplicity, and is many times better, as well as a real fuel saver than a simple wood fire.
However wood fires are more feelgood makers than any stove, but that is a complete other thing.
Everyone that have tried an apple grilled over a fire, or a sausage on a pin, knows the secret of a little fire.
Outside coockings, always tastes better than indoors, at home. No one would love hot-dogs and coffe, otherwise than outdoors. But that is my own simple opinion.
I give you double High-fives for the oven, but as they are busy by that, I can only give one high foot for all cozy outdoors things. Both feet would make me unstable, and cause something bad. We would not break Newtons law. Would we? Some law-breaks punishes emideatly, and this is one of the worst. I have tried...
Warm hugs to you Mr Bushcrafter/Pete.
Neat,going to make one this spring,thanks for sharing.
The concept of gasification presented is incorrect. As air is drawn from the larger cylinder, it goes throught the small holes at the bottom of the inner cylinder and some goes through the side to exit at inner cylinder top holes. The air that goes through the small hole at the bottom of the inner cylinder is the primary air for gasification that goes up (not down) through the inner cylinder and mixes with the secondary air coming into the inner cylinder at the top.
Thanks, I liked your idea on hole position for the outer can but had lost the link, picked it up from FloridaBoy Survival's post and plan to combine the approaches as I have the cans he used.
Thanks for watching, would be interested to hear see how that turns out.
ATB Pete
I haven't tried it yet and do intend to but might I suggest that rather than canceling out the interior burn floor and allowing the burn to rest on the bottom of the outer can, you simply raise the bottom holes on the outer can to create the same vortex while still keeping the fire up off the bottom. then if the burn chamber burned through you'd still have a contained fire to prevent it getting away from you.
Very nice ! Now let's see it fired up . Seriously ! Fire please
Excellent tutorial. Thank you
hi l made one and it works great nice vidio thanks .barrie
That's great, I still use one or other mine all the time, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Finally got round to making a ( slightly modified) version of this stove, and can say that it does exactly what it says on the tin(sic). I put it to test alongside a cloned model of the Silver Fire Scout (I think it is) and the Bushking won hands down (and used considerably less fuel). An overlooked feature of this stove is its surprising lightness, which, for us type of campers, is a welcome bonus.
As for the drawbacks? Well, I for one am having a frustrating time getting the thing started. I really need to experiment with my choice of starter kindling, and to this end, I think I need to invest in a proper bush knife. Another slight "downer" with the stove I imagine, is its probable limited shelf life. However, seeing as the Bushking (and its "offsprings") are relatively easy and fun to make, and cost nowt, these are minor considerations.
Fantastic!! really glad you tried it, really glad you liked it, that's what it's all about. As for the getting it started issue, I like to use a hard wood main fuel batonned to around a quarter of an inch or so with a starter fire made from fatwood,ordinary pine,birch bark and a little of whatever the main fuel is (cut really fine). I know it sounds like a bit of a faff, but if you forage as you go it soon becomes second nature, as for shelf life I'm still using the first ones I made and they are still going strong. thanks for watching & the feedback
ATB Pete
Great video. Thanks
There is no down draft of the wood gas. Old myth that refuses to die. Hot air rises. What you see is a secondary burn of the gasses as pre-heated fresh air comes out the jets. Many home wood stoves also use secondary burn to increase efficiency.
Ah you did make it! Top job
Nicely done !
Thanks for watching
Nice up-grade to conventional DIY or Chinese version. Thanks.
It would have been nice to see it in action showing us the effectiveness of your engineering. #JustAThought ;-)
Check out the burn test vid, thanks for watching ATB Pete
O.K. Edge, But you should admit that you have the skills of an illicit Afgan gun maker, Who has served a grueling ten year apprenticeship, So while Joe average is contemplating this, He can purches a can of liquid gas, And burner required, With the money you will save by not buying band aids and gloves, And cans of soup. And cutting appliance. But that is a nice little stove you made Edge. Over.
LOL!! True, but where's the fun in that? Thanks for watching
ATB Pete
What I find hard to understand is why the gases in the burning chamber go down through the unburnt wood, through the bottom holes and back up between the walls. I know it happens because I saw it on a video of a wood gas stove with the outer container made of glass. I guess there is a low pressure zone at the bottom that sucks these gases downward but I would never have thought that this suction would be strong enough to overpower the convection force generated by the combustion heat.
But that is indeed exactly what happens, you have answered your own question in your comment, thanks for watching.
ATB Pete
Great videos
+Randy Vinson Thanks for watching Randy
ATB Pete
Are you still using it these days or have you done anything to improve it (not that it need it)? Bu far the best portable stove video i have seen on utube. I will be replacing my alcohol stoves
I AM still using the very same stoves actually, l have been improving lighting methods to ensure a light first time result, I may do a video on that subject in the future, I also may do a mark 2 stove with a slightly improved air flow, but for now the mark one's are doing fine, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Also I shared the video to a Facebook group stoveaholics which is a great group
Thanks Chris ,really glad you found the video useful & I hope you enjoy your stove.
ATB Pete
Really nice video. Will try it all out this weekend. Any tips on keeping the drilled holes neat. In the past when I've tried this sort of thing the drill bit often catches and tears the tin a bit, making it messy? Already looking for the burn test as a yard stick for my own efforts. ;-) Andy
Willingstone Thanks Andy,as for the drilling issue, what I always do is firstly make sure I have a good starter hole,this keeps everything 'on target' then hold back on the pressure so that the bit can cut it's way rather than punching through. Hope this helps
All The Best Pete
Outside Edge Bushcraft further to that, with larger holes (say about 8mm) it sometimes helps to drill a smaller hole first for example pierce a starter hole and drill a 4mm, also use a high speed setting
ATB pete
Willingstone
Will have to make one of these 👍
Careful they're addictive, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
with the small size how long does the burn for if you don't refill it if it is filled very full to start?
I think should answer your question ruclips.net/video/Gu4FFxH5dEk/видео.html
Thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Loved it!!
But that is indeed exactly what happens, you have answered your own question in your comment, thanks for watching.
ATB Pete
what are the other dimensions like outside can holes from the bottom and burn chamber how far the top holes from the top and the bottom hose from the bottom
The outer 8mm air intake holes should be drilled on a centre line 2.5cm from the bottom of the can, the top jet holes on the burn chamber should be 10mm from the top & the gas outlet holes at the bottom of the burn chamber should be 6mm from the bottom, these measurements include the steel ring at the top & bottom of the can, hope this helps.
ATB Pete
Didn't see the burning. how was the improvement?
I've made another video on the burn test, and thanls for watching
ATB Pete
Hi only just found this video, so I apologise for the late question
So with your stove design, per se, if you made 2 stoves with exactly the same size cans, identical fuel wind conditions etc, side by side. the only difference being the two designs you show in the video. How long does each burn last ???
thanks for the video though, very informative and much appreciated.
Gary
I'm not quite sure I understand the reasoning behind your question, but depending on the fuel available (ie soft or hardwoods) and moisture content, wind conditions etc. I usally get around 30 to 40 minutes actual burn time with a further 15 to 25 minutes simmering time on the charcoal embers. Hope this helps & thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Would've liked to see it in action, but well done nonetheless.
Check out my burn test video, thanks for watching
ATB Pete
Clever!👍🏻
Thanks for watching
ATB Pete
on the burn chamber how far are the holes from the top and the bottom
the top jet holes on the burn chamber should be 10mm from the top & the gas outlet holes at the bottom of the burn chamber should be 6mm from the bottom, these measurements include the steel ring at the top & bottom of the can, hope this helps.
ATB Pete
yes that helps a lot I am thinking of making one out of progressive soup can for the burning chamber and a one quart paint can for the outside
Rather than making a pot stand, why not just cut out the centre of the peanut-bowl where it joins the foot and serrate the edges of the bowl, makes the whole thing out of one piece.
Yet another interesting video this one Peter ; one that I have watched several times. The first time I watched it I was tempted to have a go at making one myself. However, because I realised where the idea came from I baulked at the notion, and, because of the price for an "off the shelf" wood gasifier, bough tone off e bay for about a tenner. A Chinese clone of the SilverFire Scout if I 'm not mistaken. Recently however, I have become increasingly intrigued at your claim that the modified version is an improvement on the old. Did you actually make two versions of your stove to verify this claim? My interest is purely academic, I am not trying to "put you on the spot" as it were. My thought process then ran to wondering if your design IS a better one than (say) the SilverFire Scout, how come the commercial manufacturers haven't picked up on this and improved their designs also. After all, the physics is there as you have shown.
I had watched numerous video's of people constantly and randomly putting fuel into both their 'off the shelf' and homemade woodgas stoves when it occurred to me to perhaps 'optimise' the burn chamber fill (as far as is reasonably practicable) and to control the airflow and see if a longer more controlled burn could be achieved on one fill of fuel, after a few prototypes I arrived at the one in this video, it works really well for me, I get enough from one fill of fuel to cook a meal, make a hot drink or both depending on the size of stove, whether it it out performs any other stove I can't say as I don't have one to compare. I would imagine the commercial manufacturers take the belt & braces approach to their design, whereas the 'Bushking 400' takes a little time to master lol!!
Well, it certainly impresses in the video. If I can discipline myself, I may have a go at making one some day. I have had a go at similar projects with "penny stoves" , a " hobo stove" and a couple of windshields with pleasing results. To be frank, my Chinese SilverFire Scout clone I found to be a little disappointing. This I might add, I think, has nothing to do with my technique or poor choice of fuel.
i like it cool
+tinbender998 Three thanks, for watforfor the comment,
+Outside Edge Bushcraft What I meant to say waaas, Thanks for watching,forcommenting & for the sub
ATB Pete
Nice stove. The theory make since to me and it also gives you a larger burn chamber.
Do you know?
The American equivalent cans (tins) ?
American size holes?
Edward Sanford Hi Edward, firstly thanks for your comment, and secondly unfortunately I have no idea about American can sizes having never been to the U.S. however I can give you the dimensions of the ones I use and I'm sure you could find something similar. The inner burn chamber is 108mm tall with a 74mm diameter and the outer is 115mm tall with a 85mm (within 1 or 2 mm) hope this helps
All the best Pete
Using a sharpened screwdriver i.e. shank.
Made one this afternoon. Tried the 300g burnchamber with 400g outer tin. I am quite satisfied how it worked out - your instructions were great! just my tinder was not ideal (i used beech as main wood and birch bark + beech as tinder/fire starter and needed to start the fire 2 times...) - i'll need to find some fatwood soon... And I will probably try to make a portable wind protector wall... Any ideas?
Here is a little foto from the test :-) www.directupload.net/file/d/4283/jbwnh853_jpg.htm
I fired it up 2 times and got each time about 24 minutes burntime - quite ideal for some cups of coffee as i found out. To have time to make bacon&eggs after I will definitely try the 400g burn chamber too..
+J. Charles Nice job!! and looks you got some nice 'blue' flame, the larger sizes ARE better for cooking, however I will shortly upload a video showing a 300gm. doing coffee & a grilled cheese sandwich, and tomorrow I,m recording a field test with a 165ml. burn chamber & 300gm. outer ha! ha! . As far as the starter fires go, practice makes perfect , the more you do the qucker & easier it becomes, and by the way nice pot stand, keep me posted
All The Best Pete
+Outside Edge Bushcraft Thanks! You are right, the secondary burning was quite blue most of the time. The top-down fire method from your video seems a lot cleverer to me than constantly feeding such a stove with sticks. But I also think about building a slightly bigger one with an opening in the potstand for being able to put in more fuel in case the primary fuel runs out and one wants to keep the fire going a little more to finish cooking a meal. Yeah, I will practice starter fires with pleasure and keep you updated how it goes with my builds :) Def looking forward to your new videos!
+Outside Edge Bushcraft By now I did some more tests, and you are right with practice it gets a lot easier to start up the fire. Also fatwood makes it very easy. I went in a small pine forest near to me and was lucky to find a pretty old pine tree stub full of fatwood. So there will be enough for starter fires for the rest of the year. That plus birch bark seems to me to be better than any grill lighter that one can purchase..
+J. Charles you have to love Birch bark, it's the best
your choice of primary venting and main air inlet does not make sense. If you place the primary air holes at the bottom side of the can and the main fresh air inlets below that point then the hot gas from the primary holes will rise because it is hot and this will create a draft below the primary holes pulling up cold fresh air from the main fresh air holes warming this air along the way and mixing it with the gas. The way you have it you are dumping cold air on top of the hot wood gas and cooling the gas before it can enter the chimney and rise, this is not a good idea because it is the combination of the hot gas and the top flame which power your pump which draws both wood gas and fresh air up the chimney to the secondary vents. Having the primary vents above the fresh air intake is a more logical and a better way of getting the job done. All of my builds show that on start up the stove built with the primary above the fresh air inlet will start more quickly and not smoke. Once the stove is hot there is not much difference both positions can work well. To me a fast start up and no smoke are key goals.
Top lit
ATB Pete
@@outsideedgebushcraft3017 what are you trying to say?
日本語通訳して
no funciona, humea mucho y no se puede encender
I've recently discovered your channel and really enjoy them! If you want to boost your membership and views, please join my buddy's Facebook page, Grid Down Living. We share many things related to off-grid life.
If you join the page, you are free to post links to your RUclips videos. Cheers, mate!
Thanks Rocco , I'll have a look
ATB Pete
Sorry I’m ridiculously late to the party here, but I’ve just started looking at camping wood gasifier stoves. There seems to be some debate as to how these stoves work, mainly…is this an updraft, or a downdraft…what’s the route of the wood gas once formed?…what gases are coming up the outside sleeve and through the jet holes?
I did try finding explanations elsewhere on the internet, but all the diagrams illustrate the various designs of large home generator wood gas stoves, rather complicated industrial looking large structures…there appeared to be 4 different designs…including updraft and downdraft. But this didn’t really help in finding an answer to how these small stoves work.
Then I found this video ruclips.net/video/8ycDGWy8rik/видео.htmlsi=UlRtyTxEWG95tw4e. Watch from 2:40. He used a glass outer, and smoke from a joss stick (?), to demonstrate when the gas travelling up the outer sleeve was just air, the stove performed the same as in its original state…so these camping wood gasifier stoves are updraft, not downdraft stoves.
Have a look see what you think. Do you have any online references I could look at that shows how the stoves work?
Thanks for your videos, it’s fun seeing how teeny tiny it’s possible to make them!