WHAT DRAG FACTOR TO USE ON THE ROWING MACHINE | CONCEPT2 - ERIK MURRAY ON DRAG FACTOR | E4S2
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2018
- I get so many questions on drag factor and it was great for Concept2 to interview some big name rowers on the subject, here is the link to the article: www.concept2.com/news/damper-...
Some people think treat the resistance on the rowing machine like a weights stack. It is not quite like this unfortunately. Rowing fast does not mean a high drag. The GB test drag factor is 138 which is around 6-7 depending on the rowing machine used. Some very powerful athletes will use higher drag factors for short intervals. High volume pieces usually use a little lower frag factor!
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Love the edit at the start and great topic. I always have the damper set at 5 for anything from10 x 100m, a 2k test to 30min UT2. I'll certainly look at the Concept2 piece now and will look at doing reduced drag sessions for the tekkers you talk about... thanks again!
Thanks, trying out dome new stuff. Sounds like you've got the damper settings down!
could you talk about the differences / advantages of both sprinting/short distance and steady state/long distance in one of your episodes ? These videos are really helpful !
Not quite sure what you mean. Do you mean differences they have on fitness?
Cameron Buchan yep, please keep it anonymous though :)
This was good, it helps explain that you would go the max drag or min drag depending on the type of training you are doing. I read or saw somewhere that depending on your weight class and male or female, drag factor 120 -130 is the closest simulation to rowing on the water.
Thanks. Yes around about there!
Good to be back
I'm currently using damper setting 7 and it used to be a good setting for but I find that I'm fatigued after 5-10, would you suggest lowering it to about a 5, would my body still get the same benefits? I'm currently using it for calorie burn
Great intro tune. Love that front gate
Much appreciated! The gate is new actually! Also, there is an edit button for comments you make a mistake on :)
Cool vids man. Is there a specific drag factor used in official competitions?
Most competitions you can set it to whatever you like!
Getting back into rowing. After 3 years not being in a boat or on an erg I want to give Henley one more try. Would you recommend training ut2 and stick with heart rate zone even if split are awful at the beginning and throw in some weights. Or mix ut2, ut1, AT/TR and weights to mix up things and to shock the body a bit more? Planning on losing 15kg as well. Love the vids btw made me want to get back in a boat. Will give you a hey buddy if I see you in Leander when I visit in a few weeks.
Michael Shasha I know your asking Cameron, not me, but if you’ve got the whole year, and you’re committed, you should definitely spend the first couple of months smashing the steady state and some weights. Then start mixing in some more UT1 and AT work as the season progresses.
I feel like you’ll only progress so far doing a lot of AT work before you hit a wall. Henley is just over 2k, so you need that aerobic capacity for the middle 70%. Plus, the UT2 is much easier to recover from and maintain (provided you’re sticking to your prescribed wattage/heart rate zone, and ignoring the splits), so you’re much less likely to bottle it early on.
Just my opinion though. You might know your body better, and if you’ve still been doing some training in your time off, your aerobic capacity probably won’t be as bad as you think (and it SHOULD, in theory, return quicker)
To start with it's good to go with what your body is able to, there isn't any point in rushing into it and you don't want to get injured or burn yourself out. If you go back to my first training vlogs I was doing 1:59s but I was patient and knew the fitness would come eventually. Then started working in above ut2 pieces once I had a base so to speak. Hope that helps!
Cameron Buchan thanks mate
Great cinematics! 🍠
Very intresting informations Thank you 👍
dont forget the fact that if the ergos are older the drag factor decreases as less air comes through the protective cover of the fan, a new ergo on 10 may be over 200 on the drag factor and an old ergo could be also set on 10 but drag factor would be 150 or sometimes even less. I use 10 for power strokes at low rate just to mimic a weights session but using the rowing movement
Very true! Generally 5-6 though is good for ut2 no matter the age. But you're right they definitely cam vary, especially when ergs are older and not taken care of
do you know if the GB coaches recommend a higher setting for single scullers and pair rowers vs those who row in quads and eights? Single scull can usually feel like drag factor 30000000 :-)
They do not
Been rowing for years. I've always used factor 10 all the time, I do 10k's every other day on this setting and have never had an injury. Am I just lucky?
I've replied to your other comment 👍
By 138 being the GB standard, does that mean they cap it at 138 or that you have to be at 138 and no higher/lower? And what about your UT1 drag?
Supposed to be using 138 exactly.
Usually drag is only looked at when testing but usually the drag is held the same for all ergs. I've made a couple of videos talking about drag factor actually which explain it a bit better
Cameron Buchan Good to know, cheers. Do you only put it at 138 for 2k prep or do you also put it there for AT and TR workouts? I’d imagine for steady state you’re closer to 130 to prevent injury.
@@Efalstrup I've experimented with using higher for all workouts and lower. Definitely recommend watching the latest video I have made on the subject. It is a very personal preference. What works for one person might not work for others. Only issue is if you have to test at a certain drag factor then it's probably a good idea to get used to it
Cameron Buchan Fair enough, I’ll give the video a watch! If I’m having to test with at a standard DF though, which workouts should I do at that DF (i.e. 138) to get used to it (and which workouts does it not really matter if I leave it up to my personal preference, i.e. 120)?
Nice editing!
Thank you!
Nice shirt! Greetings from Mexico
Hellooo!
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No sugar coated love - Tape Machines. Enjoy!
+Cameron Buchan Thanks!
Im very confused now! Ive always used 10 for 20K so my movement has adapted to do it with that DF. So based on what you say if I change it to 5-6 then I have to change the technique? Will it be faster? Ive tried with 8 DF but its quite uncomfortable and it takes forever... you always put everything upside down 🙃.
PS. Outfit is on point. Whoever gave you that jersey has excellent taste.
Like I said the difference between 10 and say 5 isn't so much a "resistance" thing. But having it at 10 does mean you have to load your back harder which can lead to bad things down the road, like you've said you've adapted to row at 10. It won't necessarily make it slower for long distances rowing a 10 vs 5, you just have to adapt to the "lighter" drag. Yes the top is excellent isnt it 🐢
Valeria Jiménez you row 20k with damper at 10?! That's rough fir the lower back. Another issue is that no boat "feels" like an erg with damper >7, a 1x is close to 6-7 damper setting.
Good info, but the background music is distracting.
What's the point of having drag factor up to 10?
Generally not too much!
Drag factor of 10? I imagine you meant a damper setting of 10.
Maximum watts on a 10-15 stroke test using damper factor #1. Stay loose, be ready to change direction at the catch by sneeking up on it.. It for sure is high, high rating, but slide control is still key. Engage, and instant lightning drive/speed, ,,yea. We are going to find out who has that engagment, or are you letting the oar handle push your arms at the catch. All for the boat. No erging medals at the Olympics.
That's what I'm saying about drills. I wouldn't use 1 for ut2 unless I want to work on th engagement off the catch
1000 watts for 20km.
EZ
You know it!