I bought this stove by accident instead of the Nova . I must say this is the only video I found that is a actual tutorial on the STOVE. All the others just wanna show priming and water boiling comparisons. 👍🏼
My old Coleman multifuel used to flare up just like that. Don’t use it much these days, but it’s still working at 20+ years old. This looks like a very nice stove!!
Great video. Very thorough. I bought this as I like the versatility of it being a multi fuel. These days, who knows what you'll need and what is at hand - camping or our current Winter fuel conservation. Be prepared! I have a old Coleman Peak 1 but this is much better size-wise and weight-wise. I love that it packs away in a pot into the backpack. I have mine in a mini-cook set
Matt, What a good video on how to use the stove. What a difference from the stove I was issued with in the 70's (Clockwork exercises in Norway)! The stove that was in a tin, using either hexi or white spirit to warm up the stove after pumping but there was no valve to control the blue flame! It was either on or off! This stove is on my wish list for my walking adventures for sure.
Hi, really thorough video, thank you. Seems to have a lot of benefits over my old whisperlite international. The gas flared up at first as the fuel preheat does not work until warm. So I think you have to start with the gas upright for a few seconds until warm.
Great instructive video. Have lots of experience with canister stoves & alcohol stoves &, after much research, I recently bought the Polaris as my first multifuel stove (over MSR or Primus models). I'm looking forward to trying the stove on several snowshoeing or camping trips this winter in Canada where I live. Having served in former Yugoslavia in 1990s the Canadian military, I smiled when you described the fuel odor as resembled slivovic :)
Awesome review. It's only my shopping list to replace my 20 Yr old whisperlite which I hadn't used in 15 yrs. This looks more robust than the new ones look cheap and cheerful
I have that stove with several bottles and I like it because you can use different fuel without having to charge the jets, also the pump is all metal and not plastic!
To prevent flare up accidents I try to do the preheat routine with the pot on top of the stove. You are also making the most of the fuel as you don't just waste all that heat just to preheat the stove. I use an Primus Omnifuel which is at least 20 years old, but all multifuel stoves work in the same way. I also did some research thinking that the Optimus stoves where some sort of chineese knock offs which you could not get parts for in the future... and seems like I was totally wrong. Aparently the Optimus Stoves are made in Sweden (Stockholm) and from the same group as Katadin. I also checked the prices and seem to be on par with equivalent units (double valved) such as the MSR Dragonfly and current Primus Omnifuel II steel model (the TI version is more expensive). Worth looking at!
Propane has the lower vaporizing temperature. Often in cold weather (I am in Canada)the propane burns off first and then you are left with the butane that freezes up. So unless you can warm the canister, the second half of the fuel becomes unusable in cold weather. Inverting the canister greatly increases the burn time and low temperature usage of these canisters. Basically I use the canister stoves until about -5C and then switch to white gas for the colder and winter seasons.
A nice demo .. thanks. This stove is definitely on my wish list .. I particularly like the Gas / Liquid Fuel capability. In the mean time, my Optimus 8R Hunter (bought new in the 70's) will continue to give sterling service. Of course it's not multi-fuel .. being restricted to Coleman Fuel / Similar. Doubt though, that I will ever retire it as it is extremely simple in operation and as reliable as can be. But then .. one can never have too many stoves 😊. Take care .. NB: It didn't appear that you were using a Bic Lighter .. 'Click a Bic' .. first time, every time 😏.
Hi! Thank you very much! I was struggling with the user manual and you helped me a lot! Question: can you leave the pump on the bottle for transportation? Or would you rather remove it and put back the cap?
I still think that under most circumstances, the MSR Whisperlite Universal is probably the better stove all things told, the exception would have been while deployed. I really do enjoy that with the MSR you can fine tune things based on fuel source, but that DOES present opportunities for losing bits, and unless war has so far evolved that all parties involved are willing to guarantee a restful nights sleep and time for cooking, you'll almost certainly be sleep deprived, operating in potentially low light/nonpermissive environments, and that makes this stove superior for that application, except the noise, but you can buy the quietstove adapter and solve that issue.
This will not burn alcohol fuel. Like he said. But nonetheless I think is as solid as a stove as you can get. I love mines. Its super versatile and would highly recommend anyone interested to just buy it. You will want to add the silencer to your purchase because is very loud but is not necessary. It will preform as intended without it.
@@JohnSmith-yb1im because the jets are not set up for it. I tried with different types of alcohol but it just won't burn it. I would still recommend this over the msr. But you can't go wrong if you the msr. I own them both.
You seem to be quite the connoisseur. I fancy myself a stove-a-holic :) Do you know if the Coleman lantern lighter mod would work on this stove? It was a very nice mod to my XGK II.
Nice video. A few reflections: 1) It shouldn't require so much pumping. Please check the fuel filter (unscrew tip). If it is brass (katadyn military grade) its normally fine. The white mouse tampons found in some are infamous for problems. Replace with some fluff from a cotton swab. 2) Prime with ethanol and fire with lighting fluid (e.g. EC 918-481-9). Its less volatile in cold weather. It has higher energy density. It follow established standards and can be found everywhere (supermarket, gas station, the deli on the corner). It also don't dry out the pump and o-rings like the fuel you use in the video. 3) You should NEVER use the stove inside. So the monoxide discussion is a no issue, and will depend on the total air restriction (typ of windscreen, wind, if burner is on flat land or in a snow pit etc etc). That said there are other great videos proving that the extra weight of heat exchanger is not worth it in relation to the carrying the extra weight in fuel. Best performance will be derived from thin aluminum pot with base big enough to generously cover the full fire blast. Improved further if bottom is dented somewhat upward to collect the heat
Thanks Mac and thank you for the added detail. The stove is being used in a tactical environment so unfortunately it isn’t always possible to cook outside. Darkness and sub -30 centigrade often mean we have to be inside a tent to cook and maintain ourselves without either giving our position away or losing the ability to rewarm. It is an ogling debate on how best to mitigate this problem. Personally I would advise using gas down to -15 and only liquid fuel beyond this, which once you are in the tent is relatively infrequent. What are your thoughts? Any sound advice is always helpful.
@@matthewwilliams2064 My thinking goes like this: 1) Never use stove inside tent. The added condensation brings more problems than joy by the heat. Add to that risk of monoxide poisoning and lumination of the whole tent. In tactical situation I advice to dig a generous pit in the snow to hide heat signature and cook fast. You can do it sufficiently close to the tent to manage it from inside. 2) The "heating" problem you resolve by using dry cloths in base and never put wet gear in your sleeping bag. Dry on march or by sublimation on clothesline. 3) With gas in winter you're working against the law of nature. A gas stove require liquid (compressed gas) to transition into gas very fast. A process that require generous amount of heat. Something which is very scarce at -30C. Even in summer canister turns very cold after extended cooking. "Winter gas" is normally a mix of different gas and will burn the gas with lowest "boiling point" first. So initially it look successful but later you are stuck with useless half full canisters.
@@macmaster9840 thanks for your comments again. These are all interesting discussion points and not just about the stove. The tactical need for cooking in tents has been long established within the far north and every year it is reviewed to see if there is a better way. The tents that are used currently provide a large porch area that maximises ventilation and with the Optimus having one of the lowest CO outputs of any liquid stove then the risk is minimised, with sensible use. In addition, the tents we use are light blocking, which is incredibly effective. Digging a pit, whilst removing a direct line of sight whilst on the ground, does not prevent aerial view or radiated heat and light. I have never seen a problem with a stove generating condensation, certainly not when compared to the respiration of four men in a small space. Drying equipment in any environment is always a challenge and all the strategies you mention are used where appropriate. With a higher calorific gas mix, you are ok to about -15 and I've certainly never had a problem using them this way within the higher latitudes. I do totally agree that at -30 you need to be using liquid fuel.
@@matthewwilliams2064 Yes it's always interesting to exchange thinking. However, your experience is different from mine. If 4 men in a tent give off more vapor than a rolling boil I am somewhat curious what is going on in there. Yes cooking in tent in good conditions is totally safe. Until suddenly one day it isn't, because wind stopped or snow was a tad too restrictive on the vent opening. Then suddenly it becomes a lot of extra work for other team to collect and clean valuable government tent and stove. Light weight top mounted canister stove can indeed have great convenience and weight advantage in summer. However, benefit of adding 3 times the dead weight of canister gas compared to bottled kerosene in winter is unclear, even if nature caress us above -15C. Did you confirm utilization rate on the canisters? Our experience is that extraction is compromised below 0C, independent of mix.
@@macmaster9840 I see where there maybe a difference in our understanding. If a stove is used to heat a tent it is normally done without a pan on it. This is helpful in some ways as CO is significantly less although it still requires vigilance. As far as loss of airflow, due to snow build up, then when working in a military environment you always have one of the occupants awake at any time as well as the outside having regular checks by sentries. This is exactly the same procedure as when working from a snow hole. Gas is not used as a standard by the military, currently, but it is a recommendation to enhance what is currently there not replace it. Usage is always going to be higher in colder temps due to the extra energy required to melt snow. This is true of any fuel type.
In warmer temperatures you can use the canister the right way up and the flip it to get the dregs out. In cold weather, which is where it will be used by the military predominantly, then start with it upside down. You don’t need to preheat with gas only liquid fuel. Hope that this helps.
I have a question about it. I have this stove, but it’s hard to start it with gas. What do you think is the problem? The stove is like a brand new one, and I can hear gas going through, but the problem is that when the stove is on and not ignited, you can fire it up only when there is little power, and after you crank it up more, it will shut down. With fuel, there is no problem; it works just fine. And with the sparky from Optimus, there is a problem too; it doesn’t ignite.
Odd??? I've the Optimus Nova stove, virtually the same stove in design, form and function. Very happy with it in all regards with one exception. As delivered it was NOISY!!! I mean like jet engine noisy!!! What surprised me about the Primus is I don't detect the loud, distracting roar of the Nova model. How can this be?? Is your mic not picking this up, but only your voice??? Learned of a so called "Quiet Cap" that replaces the 3 pronged metal cover over the burner. With it installed is now the perfect stove and the cap allows a softer, more controlled burn at very low simmering position, better than the original with NO loss of performance at full throttle. The only difference between the 2 stoves is the connector on the hose end to the fuel source allowing the multi fuel use. Yours is a threaded screw on type versus the spring loaded quick connector used on the Nova. Can't figure why the Primus is quieter???
I just got one and am a newbie with outdoor stoves. Im having trouble getting it lit with gas. When I turn it on initially it lights but if I cut the gas and then turn back on it won't light for me. Can anyone help? Thanks,
My concern with the Optimus Polaris fuel hose is that it’s very difficult (if at all possible) to clean the additives in vehicle fuel out of it and long term residue can (according to some) build up in the hose and will need to be replaced, whereas the MSR hoses have a cable that can be slid in and out to clean out their hoses. Saw a vid of a guy using a Whisperlite Universal stove and hose with the Optimus Polaris pump in the MSR bottle and he got great simmer with the Whisperlite stove using liquid fuel due to the Optimus pump having the little dial tap on the pump plus using the spindle on the end of the MSR hose so got simmer ability like the Polaris but with better fuel efficiency due to changing the jets to specific fuel types and also has the ability of cleaning the MSR fuel hose with built in cable, best stove with the best pump gave best combo of fuel efficiency, reliability and simmering too
All really good points and you are right to compare the two stoves. They were the ones tested by the Marines. The Optimus was chosen because it didn’t require adaptation for different fuels and that it was a fully dry system after use with no residual fuel left in, provided that it was used correctly of course. As far as residue building up in the hose then a liquid fuel stove is always going to be better when using things like Naptha or Coleman fuel. We would only recommend using vehicle fuel in extremis due to the additives. This stove provides the ability to use any fuel if needed but as with the MSR, and all other liquid fuel stoves, then fuel intended for stove use is always going to be superior. As far as cleaning is concerned then it isn’t difficult to completely strip the stove. In my experience of using these stoves over most of my life I have never come across problems with the fuel hose. Blockages tend to occur in the aperture and only when using lower grade fuel. Hope that this helps.
@@matthewwilliams2064 wow, never having a problem in all those years with fuel residue building up in the fuel hose must mean it just doesn’t really even happen, and worst case scenario a spare hose kept with the maintenance kit would fix the issue anyway 👍🏻 The simmer spindle is important to me personally, and although people can eventually fiddle around with the Whisperlite to get some degree of simmer I think the time spent playing with it would negate the fuel efficiency of the specific Whisperlite liquid fuel jet since while fiddling with it their wasting fuel anyway
@@impermanenthuman8427 I’m certain it does happen when using dirty fuel. I have only had to do that a couple of times as I have always had access to the better fuel. So my experience only relates to those set of circumstances. For those that use dirtier fuels then I suspect that, like all stoves, you will need to give it a good clean from time to time. In any case it’s a great stove and mega flexible.
@@matthewwilliams2064 yes, I can’t find a better ‘one stove’ option, if I had no idea where I was going or what fuel was going to be available the Optimus Polaris seems to be the best, and with spare parts handy it really extends its range. But if I knew I was going to need to use vehicle fuel for any length of time, then based in the manufacturers user manuals only the MSR XGK EX is officially stated as not having the life of the stove shortened by using unleaded gasoline. All the MSR stoves are stated to get blockages if using unleaded fuel, but they also say the life of the stove will be reduced, only the XGK EX is the exception, but unless you believe needing to use unleaded is likely then it’s over kill, I haven’t seen anyone burn truck diesel yet anyway, it needs a huge amount of heat to prime the stove to get it to gasify which needs another fuel to get it primed in the first place Even the Amish mix approx 1/4 white gas/Coleman camp fuel/Shellite into 3/4 kerosene to get kerosene to start burning for lamps and stoves, and truck diesel is an even ‘heavier’ fuel than kerosene
The biggest reason for residue is to leave dirty fuel to evaporate from the hose leaving the dirt in the hose. Optimus significantly reduce this issue by 1) using a fuel filter at the intake straw 2) making sure the fuel line is emtied on every use so that sediments will not form. Still it is good practice to place the hose in etanol over night every 2-5 years and rinse it with pressurized air. That said the stove will hold much longer if primed with etanol and fired with lighting lighting fluid. It doesn't dry out the pump and o-rings in the way alkylate petrol does.
Just like my old primus multi fuel (still in use). They aren't very Tac are they with the noise they make? I tended to use a lightweight gas stove on Ex in the UK, a lot quieter, and I stuck to Hexy or cold rations everywhere else. Now, on hikes and over nights I just stick to Triangia and meths.
Phil I totally agree that gas is so much quieter. Unfortunately it doesn’t give the best efficiency at very cold temps hence why we go for liquid fuel. Tactically you just have to use your common sense when using it. It is always a balance.
@@matthewwilliams2064 Yep, its horses for courses. Even at -6 on 'The Plain' the gas struggles. I did forget that you gyrine types like the cold weather!
Mine almost exploded. Always be very aware that these burners can be very dangerous. When it explodes and there is still half a liter petrol in it then in a radius of 3 meter you will get completely burned. Mine always leaked. Even the second pump i got replaced under warranty started to leak in a few weeks. But the shop told me to get lost. Every time i had to use it i needed to disassemble the pump. And trying with silicone to grease it. Put it back together and hoping that it would not leak until i got my dinner prepared. Had to watch it constantly so i could intervene. But one day i was to late. And the whole bottle started to burn. Had to stay away from it and praying that it would not explode and start burning my tent. With everything in it. It did not explode although everything must have been extremely hot. The pump was completely melted. I have had it for maybe 12 years. But it was pain and suffering. Great discomfort all the time. When i was tired from riding all day all i needed was a hasslefree petrol burner for making a meal or coffee. But everytime it fucked up. The flame disperser acted as a spring and may times it jumped of when it got hot. Then i had to try to get the fire out. Let it cool down. And try to use it again. Then i lost 30 minutes at least. All in all it was a horror device. I still have it and i wish i could only get a new pump. But you need to buy a complete kit.
Propane - is the cold weather one with a boiling point -42 degrees C. Most of these products have a propane /butane mix which will remain a gas below 0. Butane has its advantages but struggles to remain a gas at 0.
Thanks for clarifying always seems to be one of those things I can never remember. Interestingly not all gas is created equal and I know that the Optimus gas is one which is better suited to cold weather as well as being on a different EN code so you can move 1500kg without restrictions.
The proper way to dry the fuel line is closing the fuel regulator IN THE BOTTLE first, and let the stove burn the remain fuel from the line them you shut off the steamer regulator. I think the switch on off twist thing is to prevent problems when switching fuel type. Otherwise nice video.
Sorry Phil G, I’m afraid you are incorrect. The way this was demonstrated is the correct way as per the instructions manual! Doing it your way leaves the bottle pressurised with the chance of leakage. Regards
The correct sequence is to turn the bottle to OFF to drain the fuel line, then close the valve on the bottle, then close the valve on the burner. In the video he closed the valve on the burner first, which leaves the fuel line pressurised. Not a biggie, as the worst thing that can happen is maybe a small spritz of fuel when the line is unscrewed from the bottle, but it’s just good practice to close valves in a system like this starting from the source of the pressure and moving out. Pressure in the bottle is released before stowing away, of course, but you do that by holding the bottle upright (very important) and then slowly unscrewing the pump from the bottle until air escapes, then tighten back on.
Hi Matt just bought the Optimus Polaris myself and seen your review, being ex army wish we had these in the 90s... which fuel do you use when not using gas ... cheers great info and simple to use... plus just subscribed.. many thanks Wayne... ps I'll be using this when doing the Tour Du Mont Blanc 110mile hike with my girlfriend... the stove will be perfect for our trip .. 👌
Wayne thanks for the message. I would use Coleman or Primus fuel as a preference although it can burn pretty much most liquid fuels. Hope you have a great trip!
@@matthewwilliams2064 yeah managed to get Primus from cotswold outdoors store.. and can get coleman from Go Outdoors... many thanks and thanks for getting back to me... ps I bought replacement parts from amazon to, for future service... 👍🤟
Very instructive video (though I have lit this stove a 100 times). Two remarks: I would never lite a gasoline stove on a wooden table. Not that it is very dangerous, but it can damage your table severely. And than, your sleeve is very close to the stove in some frames. And your sweater is an artificial fiber. It might melt or burn with very nasty burning wounds as a result.
One of the key reasons a stove like this would be issued to a military unit is that it can run on jp8. As far as boiling points of gaseous fuels, Propane boils at -44F whilst Butane boils at +32F. Propane is by far the better gaseous fuel but it needs a heavy can at normal temperatures. I’m American so I don’t know what the Celsius equivalents are. I don’t know how that stove would perform with alcohol. Um... quit blaming America for Katadyn putting that second valve on the pump. I’m pretty sure the market demanded it actually. The old nova quick release was the most problematic aspect of the old design. They had a hard time sourcing it. It also had a nasty habit of failing if it wasn’t religiously lubricated.
32F=0C . -44F= -42C The the crossover point for the two systems scales is -40. So -40c and -40F are the same. FYI, the calulator on your computer and phone does conversions if you touch the little icon that looks like a ruler. Also you can just google "convert (whatever you need converted) to (whatever you want it converted to). Example: Type: convert -10F to celsius" hit enter and you will get the temperature converter with the answer "-23.3C" If you phone has voice assist, tough the little microphone icon and say, "convert _____ to _____" It's like magic!
@@rdkuless i would stick to the others you mention. Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol, or an ethanol-based liquid and as such is a sterilising and cleaning agent.
Puzzled why engineering of this stove did not include an affixed friction type flint striker/lighter. Since there are not that many smokers around these days, nobody is packing a Bic or Zippo lighter in their shirt pocket anymore.
Why doesn't anyone demonstrate these stoves with paraffin/kerosene? I know it's dirtier than Coleman fuel/Naptha/White gas/Shellite but it's much safer!
I tried a similar Primus Omnilite on paraffin. Pre heat takes a little longer, I use meths/alcohol to pre-heat and this overcomes the soot build up associated with these heavier fuels. The most economical fuel as it turns out is paraffin.
@@odysseusreturns9133 Agreed. I want to see these things on parrafin/kerosene because that is what I intend to use and I want to see how the stove handles it. Aways preheat with your local version of denatured alcohol when using paraffin/kerosene.
![Optimus Nova / Optimus Polaris [ How to use on a REAL arctic expedition - 5 secret tricks ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gIKLZ_PKlww/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought this stove by accident instead of the Nova . I must say this is the only video I found that is a actual tutorial on the STOVE. All the others just wanna show priming and water boiling comparisons. 👍🏼
My old Coleman multifuel used to flare up just like that. Don’t use it much these days, but it’s still working at 20+ years old. This looks like a very nice stove!!
Thanks for the how to video, just got my optmus in the mail couple of days ago. Have a nice day. Sincerely TJ from Norway
Thanks for the helpful video mate, cheers!
Great video. Very thorough. I bought this as I like the versatility of it being a multi fuel. These days, who knows what you'll need and what is at hand - camping or our current Winter fuel conservation. Be prepared! I have a old Coleman Peak 1 but this is much better size-wise and weight-wise. I love that it packs away in a pot into the backpack. I have mine in a mini-cook set
Matt, What a good video on how to use the stove.
What a difference from the stove I was issued with in the 70's (Clockwork exercises in Norway)! The stove that was in a tin, using either hexi or white spirit to warm up the stove after pumping but there was no valve to control the blue flame! It was either on or off!
This stove is on my wish list for my walking adventures for sure.
Hi, really thorough video, thank you. Seems to have a lot of benefits over my old whisperlite international. The gas flared up at first as the fuel preheat does not work until warm. So I think you have to start with the gas upright for a few seconds until warm.
Great instructive video. Have lots of experience with canister stoves & alcohol stoves &, after much research, I recently bought the Polaris as my first multifuel stove (over MSR or Primus models). I'm looking forward to trying the stove on several snowshoeing or camping trips this winter in Canada where I live. Having served in former Yugoslavia in 1990s the Canadian military, I smiled when you described the fuel odor as resembled slivovic :)
It would great to hear your feedback
Ha yes the smell never leaves you
Awesome review. It's only my shopping list to replace my 20 Yr old whisperlite which I hadn't used in 15 yrs. This looks more robust than the new ones look cheap and cheerful
I have that stove with several bottles and I like it because you can use different fuel without having to charge the jets, also the pump is all metal and not plastic!
This was really informative. Thank you!
Thanks Adam, much appreciated.
To prevent flare up accidents I try to do the preheat routine with the pot on top of the stove. You are also making the most of the fuel as you don't just waste all that heat just to preheat the stove.
I use an Primus Omnifuel which is at least 20 years old, but all multifuel stoves work in the same way.
I also did some research thinking that the Optimus stoves where some sort of chineese knock offs which you could not get parts for in the future... and seems like I was totally wrong. Aparently the Optimus Stoves are made in Sweden (Stockholm) and from the same group as Katadin.
I also checked the prices and seem to be on par with equivalent units (double valved) such as the MSR Dragonfly and current Primus Omnifuel II steel model (the TI version is more expensive). Worth looking at!
Propane has the lower vaporizing temperature. Often in cold weather (I am in Canada)the propane burns off first and then you are left with the butane that freezes up. So unless you can warm the canister, the second half of the fuel becomes unusable in cold weather. Inverting the canister greatly increases the burn time and low temperature usage of these canisters. Basically I use the canister stoves until about -5C and then switch to white gas for the colder and winter seasons.
What is white gas?
@@michaelsrowland Also called Naptha or sold as Coleman camping gas in North America
I always wonder why they mix butan/ propane gas and dont just fill propane alone...
@@Wastelander13 Propane alone would require a much heavier canister due to its much greater pressure. Think propane torch bottle/cylinder.
@@mikemorgan5015 Oh, I didnt know that. Thanks a lot for the info. 👍👍
Great review Matt!!
A nice demo .. thanks.
This stove is definitely on my wish list .. I particularly like the Gas / Liquid Fuel capability.
In the mean time, my Optimus 8R Hunter (bought new in the 70's) will continue to give sterling service. Of course it's not multi-fuel .. being restricted to Coleman Fuel / Similar.
Doubt though, that I will ever retire it as it is extremely simple in operation and as reliable as can be. But then .. one can never have too many stoves 😊.
Take care ..
NB: It didn't appear that you were using a Bic Lighter .. 'Click a Bic' .. first time, every time 😏.
Hi! Thank you very much! I was struggling with the user manual and you helped me a lot!
Question: can you leave the pump on the bottle for transportation? Or would you rather remove it and put back the cap?
brilliant explanation
I still think that under most circumstances, the MSR Whisperlite Universal is probably the better stove all things told, the exception would have been while deployed. I really do enjoy that with the MSR you can fine tune things based on fuel source, but that DOES present opportunities for losing bits, and unless war has so far evolved that all parties involved are willing to guarantee a restful nights sleep and time for cooking, you'll almost certainly be sleep deprived, operating in potentially low light/nonpermissive environments, and that makes this stove superior for that application, except the noise, but you can buy the quietstove adapter and solve that issue.
This will not burn alcohol fuel. Like he said. But nonetheless I think is as solid as a stove as you can get. I love mines. Its super versatile and would highly recommend anyone interested to just buy it. You will want to add the silencer to your purchase because is very loud but is not necessary. It will preform as intended without it.
Why can't you use alcohol fuel?
@@JohnSmith-yb1im because the jets are not set up for it. I tried with different types of alcohol but it just won't burn it. I would still recommend this over the msr. But you can't go wrong if you the msr. I own them both.
You seem to be quite the connoisseur. I fancy myself a stove-a-holic :) Do you know if the Coleman lantern lighter mod would work on this stove? It was a very nice mod to my XGK II.
What a great video!
Nice video. A few reflections:
1) It shouldn't require so much pumping. Please check the fuel filter (unscrew tip). If it is brass (katadyn military grade) its normally fine. The white mouse tampons found in some are infamous for problems. Replace with some fluff from a cotton swab.
2) Prime with ethanol and fire with lighting fluid (e.g. EC 918-481-9). Its less volatile in cold weather. It has higher energy density. It follow established standards and can be found everywhere (supermarket, gas station, the deli on the corner). It also don't dry out the pump and o-rings like the fuel you use in the video.
3) You should NEVER use the stove inside. So the monoxide discussion is a no issue, and will depend on the total air restriction (typ of windscreen, wind, if burner is on flat land or in a snow pit etc etc). That said there are other great videos proving that the extra weight of heat exchanger is not worth it in relation to the carrying the extra weight in fuel.
Best performance will be derived from thin aluminum pot with base big enough to generously cover the full fire blast. Improved further if bottom is dented somewhat upward to collect the heat
Thanks Mac and thank you for the added detail. The stove is being used in a tactical environment so unfortunately it isn’t always possible to cook outside. Darkness and sub -30 centigrade often mean we have to be inside a tent to cook and maintain ourselves without either giving our position away or losing the ability to rewarm. It is an ogling debate on how best to mitigate this problem. Personally I would advise using gas down to -15 and only liquid fuel beyond this, which once you are in the tent is relatively infrequent. What are your thoughts? Any sound advice is always helpful.
@@matthewwilliams2064 My thinking goes like this:
1) Never use stove inside tent. The added condensation brings more problems than joy by the heat. Add to that risk of monoxide poisoning and lumination of the whole tent. In tactical situation I advice to dig a generous pit in the snow to hide heat signature and cook fast. You can do it sufficiently close to the tent to manage it from inside.
2) The "heating" problem you resolve by using dry cloths in base and never put wet gear in your sleeping bag. Dry on march or by sublimation on clothesline.
3) With gas in winter you're working against the law of nature. A gas stove require liquid (compressed gas) to transition into gas very fast. A process that require generous amount of heat. Something which is very scarce at -30C. Even in summer canister turns very cold after extended cooking. "Winter gas" is normally a mix of different gas and will burn the gas with lowest "boiling point" first. So initially it look successful but later you are stuck with useless half full canisters.
@@macmaster9840 thanks for your comments again. These are all interesting discussion points and not just about the stove.
The tactical need for cooking in tents has been long established within the far north and every year it is reviewed to see if there is a better way. The tents that are used currently provide a large porch area that maximises ventilation and with the Optimus having one of the lowest CO outputs of any liquid stove then the risk is minimised, with sensible use. In addition, the tents we use are light blocking, which is incredibly effective. Digging a pit, whilst removing a direct line of sight whilst on the ground, does not prevent aerial view or radiated heat and light.
I have never seen a problem with a stove generating condensation, certainly not when compared to the respiration of four men in a small space.
Drying equipment in any environment is always a challenge and all the strategies you mention are used where appropriate.
With a higher calorific gas mix, you are ok to about -15 and I've certainly never had a problem using them this way within the higher latitudes. I do totally agree that at -30 you need to be using liquid fuel.
@@matthewwilliams2064 Yes it's always interesting to exchange thinking.
However, your experience is different from mine. If 4 men in a tent give off more vapor than a rolling boil I am somewhat curious what is going on in there.
Yes cooking in tent in good conditions is totally safe. Until suddenly one day it isn't, because wind stopped or snow was a tad too restrictive on the vent opening. Then suddenly it becomes a lot of extra work for other team to collect and clean valuable government tent and stove.
Light weight top mounted canister stove can indeed have great convenience and weight advantage in summer. However, benefit of adding 3 times the dead weight of canister gas compared to bottled kerosene in winter is unclear, even if nature caress us above -15C.
Did you confirm utilization rate on the canisters? Our experience is that extraction is compromised below 0C, independent of mix.
@@macmaster9840 I see where there maybe a difference in our understanding. If a stove is used to heat a tent it is normally done without a pan on it. This is helpful in some ways as CO is significantly less although it still requires vigilance.
As far as loss of airflow, due to snow build up, then when working in a military environment you always have one of the occupants awake at any time as well as the outside having regular checks by sentries. This is exactly the same procedure as when working from a snow hole.
Gas is not used as a standard by the military, currently, but it is a recommendation to enhance what is currently there not replace it. Usage is always going to be higher in colder temps due to the extra energy required to melt snow. This is true of any fuel type.
I thought you are supposed to start gas in upright form and only invert the canister when the preheat is completed.
In warmer temperatures you can use the canister the right way up and the flip it to get the dregs out. In cold weather, which is where it will be used by the military predominantly, then start with it upside down. You don’t need to preheat with gas only liquid fuel. Hope that this helps.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a question about it. I have this stove, but it’s hard to start it with gas. What do you think is the problem? The stove is like a brand new one, and I can hear gas going through, but the problem is that when the stove is on and not ignited, you can fire it up only when there is little power, and after you crank it up more, it will shut down. With fuel, there is no problem; it works just fine. And with the sparky from Optimus, there is a problem too; it doesn’t ignite.
This is normal, not a problem
Odd???
I've the Optimus Nova stove, virtually the same stove in design, form and function. Very happy with it in all regards with one exception. As delivered it was NOISY!!! I mean like jet engine noisy!!!
What surprised me about the Primus is I don't detect the loud, distracting roar of the Nova model. How can this be?? Is your mic not picking this up, but only your voice???
Learned of a so called "Quiet Cap" that replaces the 3 pronged metal cover over the burner. With it installed is now the perfect stove and the cap allows a softer, more controlled burn at very low simmering position, better than the original with NO loss of performance at full throttle.
The only difference between the 2 stoves is the connector on the hose end to the fuel source allowing the multi fuel use. Yours is a threaded screw on type versus the spring loaded quick connector used on the Nova. Can't figure why the Primus is quieter???
I just got one and am a newbie with outdoor stoves. Im having trouble getting it lit with gas.
When I turn it on initially it lights but if I cut the gas and then turn back on it won't light for me.
Can anyone help? Thanks,
My concern with the Optimus Polaris fuel hose is that it’s very difficult (if at all possible) to clean the additives in vehicle fuel out of it and long term residue can (according to some) build up in the hose and will need to be replaced, whereas the MSR hoses have a cable that can be slid in and out to clean out their hoses.
Saw a vid of a guy using a Whisperlite Universal stove and hose with the Optimus Polaris pump in the MSR bottle and he got great simmer with the Whisperlite stove using liquid fuel due to the Optimus pump having the little dial tap on the pump plus using the spindle on the end of the MSR hose so got simmer ability like the Polaris but with better fuel efficiency due to changing the jets to specific fuel types and also has the ability of cleaning the MSR fuel hose with built in cable, best stove with the best pump gave best combo of fuel efficiency, reliability and simmering too
All really good points and you are right to compare the two stoves. They were the ones tested by the Marines. The Optimus was chosen because it didn’t require adaptation for different fuels and that it was a fully dry system after use with no residual fuel left in, provided that it was used correctly of course. As far as residue building up in the hose then a liquid fuel stove is always going to be better when using things like Naptha or Coleman fuel. We would only recommend using vehicle fuel in extremis due to the additives. This stove provides the ability to use any fuel if needed but as with the MSR, and all other liquid fuel stoves, then fuel intended for stove use is always going to be superior. As far as cleaning is concerned then it isn’t difficult to completely strip the stove. In my experience of using these stoves over most of my life I have never come across problems with the fuel hose. Blockages tend to occur in the aperture and only when using lower grade fuel. Hope that this helps.
@@matthewwilliams2064 wow, never having a problem in all those years with fuel residue building up in the fuel hose must mean it just doesn’t really even happen, and worst case scenario a spare hose kept with the maintenance kit would fix the issue anyway 👍🏻
The simmer spindle is important to me personally, and although people can eventually fiddle around with the Whisperlite to get some degree of simmer I think the time spent playing with it would negate the fuel efficiency of the specific Whisperlite liquid fuel jet since while fiddling with it their wasting fuel anyway
@@impermanenthuman8427 I’m certain it does happen when using dirty fuel. I have only had to do that a couple of times as I have always had access to the better fuel. So my experience only relates to those set of circumstances. For those that use dirtier fuels then I suspect that, like all stoves, you will need to give it a good clean from time to time. In any case it’s a great stove and mega flexible.
@@matthewwilliams2064 yes, I can’t find a better ‘one stove’ option, if I had no idea where I was going or what fuel was going to be available the Optimus Polaris seems to be the best, and with spare parts handy it really extends its range.
But if I knew I was going to need to use vehicle fuel for any length of time, then based in the manufacturers user manuals only the MSR XGK EX is officially stated as not having the life of the stove shortened by using unleaded gasoline. All the MSR stoves are stated to get blockages if using unleaded fuel, but they also say the life of the stove will be reduced, only the XGK EX is the exception, but unless you believe needing to use unleaded is likely then it’s over kill, I haven’t seen anyone burn truck diesel yet anyway, it needs a huge amount of heat to prime the stove to get it to gasify which needs another fuel to get it primed in the first place
Even the Amish mix approx 1/4 white gas/Coleman camp fuel/Shellite into 3/4 kerosene to get kerosene to start burning for lamps and stoves, and truck diesel is an even ‘heavier’ fuel than kerosene
The biggest reason for residue is to leave dirty fuel to evaporate from the hose leaving the dirt in the hose. Optimus significantly reduce this issue by 1) using a fuel filter at the intake straw 2) making sure the fuel line is emtied on every use so that sediments will not form. Still it is good practice to place the hose in etanol over night every 2-5 years and rinse it with pressurized air.
That said the stove will hold much longer if primed with etanol and fired with lighting lighting fluid. It doesn't dry out the pump and o-rings in the way alkylate petrol does.
Just like my old primus multi fuel (still in use). They aren't very Tac are they with the noise they make? I tended to use a lightweight gas stove on Ex in the UK, a lot quieter, and I stuck to Hexy or cold rations everywhere else. Now, on hikes and over nights I just stick to Triangia and meths.
Phil I totally agree that gas is so much quieter. Unfortunately it doesn’t give the best efficiency at very cold temps hence why we go for liquid fuel. Tactically you just have to use your common sense when using it. It is always a balance.
@@matthewwilliams2064 Yep, its horses for courses. Even at -6 on 'The Plain' the gas struggles. I did forget that you gyrine types like the cold weather!
What fuel do you recommend for Optimus stove the one you are using in the video
what size pot do you have that the stove fits in?
Mine almost exploded. Always be very aware that these burners can be very dangerous. When it explodes and there is still half a liter petrol in it then in a radius of 3 meter you will get completely burned. Mine always leaked. Even the second pump i got replaced under warranty started to leak in a few weeks. But the shop told me to get lost. Every time i had to use it i needed to disassemble the pump. And trying with silicone to grease it. Put it back together and hoping that it would not leak until i got my dinner prepared.
Had to watch it constantly so i could intervene. But one day i was to late. And the whole bottle started to burn. Had to stay away from it and praying that it would not explode and start burning my tent. With everything in it. It did not explode although everything must have been extremely hot. The pump was completely melted. I have had it for maybe 12 years. But it was pain and suffering. Great discomfort all the time. When i was tired from riding all day all i needed was a hasslefree petrol burner for making a meal or coffee. But everytime it fucked up. The flame disperser acted as a spring and may times it jumped of when it got hot. Then i had to try to get the fire out. Let it cool down. And try to use it again. Then i lost 30 minutes at least. All in all it was a horror device.
I still have it and i wish i could only get a new pump. But you need to buy a complete kit.
Propane - is the cold weather one with a boiling point -42 degrees C. Most of these products have a propane /butane mix which will remain a gas below 0. Butane has its advantages but struggles to remain a gas at 0.
Thanks for clarifying always seems to be one of those things I can never remember. Interestingly not all gas is created equal and I know that the Optimus gas is one which is better suited to cold weather as well as being on a different EN code so you can move 1500kg without restrictions.
So what is the advantage that butane has?
@@johnwyman61261)no heavy canisters
2)low cost
3) it is ok for warm climate
4) smal working presure
So good!
Thank's.. 👍🙌
Mine gets glowing red hot under use. Is that normal?
Are you able to use bio ethanol fuel in the Polaris?
Great video. What make of pot is that ans what is the size capacity? Thx. I want to make sure it fits. Is it 1300 ml?
It is from GSI and is 1.8ltr
Works beautiful with trangia 27
The proper way to dry the fuel line is closing the fuel regulator IN THE BOTTLE first, and let the stove burn the remain fuel from the line them you shut off the steamer regulator. I think the switch on off twist thing is to prevent problems when switching fuel type. Otherwise nice video.
Sorry Phil G, I’m afraid you are incorrect. The way this was demonstrated is the correct way as per the instructions manual! Doing it your way leaves the bottle pressurised with the chance of leakage. Regards
The correct sequence is to turn the bottle to OFF to drain the fuel line, then close the valve on the bottle, then close the valve on the burner. In the video he closed the valve on the burner first, which leaves the fuel line pressurised. Not a biggie, as the worst thing that can happen is maybe a small spritz of fuel when the line is unscrewed from the bottle, but it’s just good practice to close valves in a system like this starting from the source of the pressure and moving out.
Pressure in the bottle is released before stowing away, of course, but you do that by holding the bottle upright (very important) and then slowly unscrewing the pump from the bottle until air escapes, then tighten back on.
Hi Matt just bought the Optimus Polaris myself and seen your review, being ex army wish we had these in the 90s... which fuel do you use when not using gas ... cheers great info and simple to use... plus just subscribed.. many thanks Wayne... ps I'll be using this when doing the Tour Du Mont Blanc 110mile hike with my girlfriend... the stove will be perfect for our trip .. 👌
Wayne thanks for the message. I would use Coleman or Primus fuel as a preference although it can burn pretty much most liquid fuels. Hope you have a great trip!
@@matthewwilliams2064 yeah managed to get Primus from cotswold outdoors store.. and can get coleman from Go Outdoors... many thanks and thanks for getting back to me... ps I bought replacement parts from amazon to, for future service... 👍🤟
At 12.00 what fuel are you using?
Very instructive video (though I have lit this stove a 100 times).
Two remarks: I would never lite a gasoline stove on a wooden table. Not that it is very dangerous, but it can damage your table severely.
And than, your sleeve is very close to the stove in some frames. And your sweater is an artificial fiber. It might melt or burn with very nasty burning wounds as a result.
Will diesel fuel gel in this stove below freezing?
One of the key reasons a stove like this would be issued to a military unit is that it can run on jp8.
As far as boiling points of gaseous fuels, Propane boils at -44F whilst Butane boils at +32F. Propane is by far the better gaseous fuel but it needs a heavy can at normal temperatures. I’m American so I don’t know what the Celsius equivalents are.
I don’t know how that stove would perform with alcohol.
Um... quit blaming America for Katadyn putting that second valve on the pump. I’m pretty sure the market demanded it actually. The old nova quick release was the most problematic aspect of the old design. They had a hard time sourcing it. It also had a nasty habit of failing if it wasn’t religiously lubricated.
32F=0C . -44F= -42C The the crossover point for the two systems scales is -40. So -40c and -40F are the same. FYI, the calulator on your computer and phone does conversions if you touch the little icon that looks like a ruler. Also you can just google "convert (whatever you need converted) to (whatever you want it converted to). Example: Type: convert -10F to celsius" hit enter and you will get the temperature converter with the answer "-23.3C" If you phone has voice assist, tough the little microphone icon and say, "convert _____ to _____" It's like magic!
What is the cleanest fuel to burn with the pump bottle..? Gasoline, Diesel, Kerosene, etc..?
can you use 100% rubbing alcohol..?
All of those liquid fuels will work but white fuel such as Coleman fuel is the best and gives the most complete burn.
@@rdkuless i would stick to the others you mention. Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol, or an ethanol-based liquid and as such is a sterilising and cleaning agent.
will de-natured alcohol can be used with this stove?
Not recommended by the manufacturer. But I think it may be worth trying.
Puzzled why engineering of this stove did not include an affixed friction type flint striker/lighter. Since there are not that many smokers around these days, nobody is packing a Bic or Zippo lighter in their shirt pocket anymore.
These stoves cannot use alcohol based fuels
With a slight bit of modification to the jets it is possible.
What pot did you use?
GSI 1.8 litre pot 👍
El gamberrin is an absolute nightmare for us all all z
Why doesn't anyone demonstrate these stoves with paraffin/kerosene?
I know it's dirtier than Coleman fuel/Naptha/White gas/Shellite but it's much safer!
I tried a similar Primus Omnilite on paraffin. Pre heat takes a little longer, I use meths/alcohol to pre-heat and this overcomes the soot build up associated with these heavier fuels. The most economical fuel as it turns out is paraffin.
@@odysseusreturns9133 Agreed.
I want to see these things on parrafin/kerosene because that is what I intend to use and I want to see how the stove handles it. Aways preheat with your local version of denatured alcohol when using paraffin/kerosene.
I just say a guy disappear into a brick wall at 1:48
It smells like schnapps because that's what you put in there hahahahahaha.
your bottle is leaking fuel mate
This guy smoked something before starting this video.
???
Lots of misinformation here
In what way Chad?
@@brigantes_equipment I think he's referring to the video stating that this stove can burn alcohol, while that in fact is not the case
@@felicitysullivan8278 what happens if you use alcohol?