I love DYI, But as a beginner, I think I might go with 2, Eco-flow 3 PLUS…. Also I’m in a 2 BR CONDO… if I had a house and garage, would go ur way… GREAT VID 👍👍
You can replace the Velcro with some zip ties around the screen. That’ll hold it in place and no need to worry about it coming off. Thanks for the vid! Great idea.
For safety, you really need a proper sized fuse between the battery and inverter. I have built these types of systems and safety must come first. Especially if they are going to be in an apartment. I was an Electrical Contractor for 45 years and a City Electrical Inspector for 10 years.
@@JoshP-e4v Hi, divide the watt hours of the battery you are using by the voltage of the battery you are using. Example: 1280 watt hours divided by 12.8 volts if using a 12.8 volt, 100ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery is equal to 100 amps. Always use a fuse that is 20% larger than what you calculated using that formula. The right size fuse for the example we just used would be a 120 amp DC fuse. Sometimes you can't find the exact fuse you need, so get the one that is the next size larger. Never go way larger, stay as close to the 120% number as you can. Also remember to size the wire you use between the battery and the inverter to be the correct size to match your fuse. Put the fuse between the battery and the inverter. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the video and advice. I am currently procuring the materials to build a 5000 watt unit . Canned units are just too expensive for me plus the knowledge that I gain will bring profitable if I need to troubleshoot and repair.
I like this Concept for 2 24 Volt 100ah Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries and a Victron 24/1200 watt Inverter and a 150/35 Victron Smart Solar Charge Controller and 800 - 1000 watt solar array on The Vintage 40' Spartan Motorcoach Bunkhouse Conversion. 5K o Watt hours and a 5 to 6 hour sunny day to Recharge to floating seems very useful here in Southern California High Desert at Indian Creek Ranch 🌴 💦 🌵 ⛩
Awesome build and very well done and easily affoardable. I appreciate your design was for "most bang for the buck." I do have a Ecoflow River Pro and am pleased with it but it just doesn't cut it when powering multiple devices that I listed here. For the life of me I do not understand why anyone would pay thousands for a decent sized unit like Ecoflow or similar. I built a similar unit to yours, but larger, 5,120 Wh. I constructed mine on a Harbor Frieght four-wheeled service cart. It is a bit pricey but worth it. It can be had for $99 on sale. The cart moves effortlessly. I have (4) 100Ah Litimes mounted underneath with a Victron Bluetooth Smart Shunt, I used and recommend the 300 amp Blue Sea Fuse Block Terminal. Up top, mounted on a cut to fit Baltic Birch 3/4" board, are a 2,000 watt inverter, a 40 amp MMPT HQST charge controller mounted on the end under the tray, a DC Power Center with USB, DC 12V barrel, cigarette lighter plug-in, 50 Amp power connectors, a bus bar, 600 Amp cut-off, and LED light. The system can be moved around effortlessly. I roll it out onto my deck and connect (2) 400W portable panels to it. I also have a 100Ah Litime Bluetooth battery, coupled with a 1000 watt inverter for camping. It runs my Starlink and ICECO fridge. Pay the extra $30 for the Bluetooth feature, it is well worth it. Bluetooth shows input and output amps and watts as well as SOC. The only other item I would like to add to my system is a Victron Battery Protect to shut the system down when voltage depletes to 10.5 volts. Don't let anyone fool ya, a portable fridge while camping is the only way to go, and is worth every penny of the cost. No more ice runs, water draining, water ruining food, etc. I subbed.
Wondering if using multiple 100ah or 200ah batteries might be better if someone wanted to depend on solar recharges? Charge another battery while using the first and then swap when needed?
It won't matter. Two, 100 amp batteries is the same as one 200 amp battery. You are just pouring water into a different bucket. The best thing to do is buy 800w of solar and just do it right if you have the space.
Think that modular is giving better scalability, allthough there is a cost/ economy of scale effect: I bet that when time progresses 1x 12,8V 200Ah will be cheaper/kWh than 2 x 100Ah as BMS is required inside each of them and best formfactor/ dimensions depends where you will build it in: sometimes 2 small ones fit better than one big one...
Hey Texas enjoyed your video. My next diy project is exactly this project. I'm just gonna go with a 12V 460AH battery, have not decided which brand yet. I love this type of builds because I do not believe in buying extension batteries for my ecoflow. This is much cheaper. I did a 48V 100ah build but was quite disappointed as I never realized how inefficient a 48V inverter is. So now I'm going 12V. I'm hoping at 1500W inverter will be enough for a 26cu.ft. fridge. Great video.
The price on this 300ah is totally insane. If you want to do a big build I'd personally do two and make a 24v system. There are a lot of advantages to 24 over 12 or 48.
@@texasprepperprojects I'll have to explore 24V. Thanks for responding. Basically I'm just looking at expanding capacity on my EcoFlows for Fridge and Freezer but with the ability to connect an inverter only for redundancy in case my EcoFlow malfunctions. Something that a small solar array of 300 to 600 watts can charge should the need arise as I have a couple of Honda generators too charge the batteries in emergencies.
If you are wanting to expand an ecoflow then I do agree to stay 12v. Grab that 300ah mini for $459. Also you could buy 2, parallel them for 12v and then later as you grow series then for 24v
I have used hot glue a lot in a past life and it does eventually melt in the Tx heat. 2 part epoxy would be best but I switch my systems around too much to make it that permanent!
@@texasprepperprojects all my stuff in the house in air cond. so it works fine i have bought a bankrupt solar guy out have all kinds of panels having fun experimenting with 10 watt panels putting them in series i got 80v im changing things all the time i have made solar gen here FL ITS LEAGAL with out a permit hooking up a line at a time in the house to make it pay for it sefl
Good video. 9:06 I would suggest to install a small inline fuse on the small gauge that feeds the Shunt module in case the module shorted out or the wire falls off the module so that small wire will not catch on fire.
The screen looked like it had pressure tabs on the top and bottom. if you cut a hole the shape and size of the back, once you place it in the hole, the pressure tabs keep the meter snug in the hole.
Someone mentioned using 48V system because it allows for smaller diameter wire… I heard 48V is some ideal thing but I do not know how I would use it if everything I know/have is 12V or 120AC. I would like to understand why it is believed by some, that 48V is better than the other “standard” options available to me. Any takers for this question?😊
The reason why people like 48v is because you have smaller currents between thr battery and imverter so you can use smaller wire. If you want to get to 12v, you have to use a step-down. I think 48v is overrated because you have to have high solar input voltage that is greater than cheap panels from Craigslist
Since it's a 12v system, you could connect this to a car battery on a car that is running to charge it up or you could charge it from a generator if you attach a charging cable to it. We use a dual-fueled (Propane & Gasoline) generator on a cloudy day when the solar panels can't charge ours.
Great video bud, all the best for your you tubing future....this is really good content so I am fairly certain you will do well if you continue to put in the effort :) I'd suggest adding solar to charge, even if you can't fully charge......if you have the space for those panels obv, a bit harder in some condo's....that way you can use your back up generator during non power outages and take a little off the top of that power bill. Also, if you have off peak, charge during those times. Tonight we had power out for 3 hours....I'd lent my little system to a friend who is building a cabin......sorta wished I hadn't though!!!!
How bout velcro inverter to side of battery… AND , place this all in a Large plastic container to have it look clean…. I feel like in getting sucked down into a rabbit hole! 😂
? Could you run the charger through inverter to charge the battery like using cell phone pluged into wall and still charges ? ❤ love your video please do more of them thanks a lot
I found your video very interesting. I was hoping for a solar power set up, as I am thinking of doing my own DIY. This is what I was looking to do. I want to be able to charge up a battery that will supply power to a digital window shaker for at least 8 hours at night and use a 450 watt bi-focal solar panel during the day, as they are now running for less than $200, along with the ability to charge from a home outlet. The solar panel I will install will be vertical with 2 insulated reflector material angle back to catch some ot the Sun at noon. I also want the ability to at least run my refrigerator for as long as possible with this setup too. I live in Florida and the hurricane power outages may last hours to days and losing all that expensive food is a downer. Any suggestions with parts listed or videos would be great. Again loved the video.
I lived in FL for many years. It's all about how much you want to spend. In my opinion a 24v system is idea for a mid size home solar system. 24v, 200ah with as much solar as you can afford. So, 2 of these batteries, the Litime 60 amp mppt from my other videos and a geindel 24v 2000w inverter would be a great home system that will not cost you much but grow as you grow.
That's a big ask. A fridge is going to probably need 2kw per 24 hours. A very small window AC pulls 400w, so that's 9kw per 24 hours. Personally, i would get a chest freezer, turn it into a fridge, skip the AC and just use fans. If you really want AC, then use a generator. While the genny is running, get one of those 45 amp chargers I mentioned so you can charge up the batteries during the day and then run them at night instead of the genny.
@@texasprepperprojects Probably a silly question but how do you turn a chest freezer into a fridge? This was a very good video! It also showed me how little I know about electrical stuff.
You use a temperature controlled switch from Amazon. Program it to turn off at 32f and on at 37F so it never gets below freezing but doesn't get too hot
First, I love your videos. In regard to solar charging, you thought that this battery was too big to really be charged by solar. As a newbie, wouldn’t a partial charge on a large battery be the same as a full charge on a small battery? I could use a smaller battery to get a full solar charge, but I feel that if my power went out and then I had to use this setup, a solar panel would be better than nothing and better than a fully charged smaller battery. Thoughts?
I'm never against solar in any form. I just wanted to give an opinion on reasonable expectations. Some solar is certainly better than no solar, but most new people don't understand peak sunlight hours. I'd never tell someone not to put a 100w panel on a battery as long as they understand how far that is going to get them. In a perfect world your solar should be 1/4 your battery capacity or more, but take what you can get!
Thank you. Since I’m pretty new to this, is my assessment correct that the larger battery is better even if you can’t charge it completely vs a smaller battery that can be fully charged?
@@billwollard8072 As Texasprepper said, yes , is the answer. I'll add providing we are talking Lifepo4 which we are, as that is the subject of the video. Just to be clear. It's not the case for lead batteries.
Could you not 3D print a case for the battery monitor? Yes you need a 3D printer or purchase services of someone who does but more secure and does not cover screen.
I haven't found anything on RUclips offering strategies for quickly charging a mixture of SolGens and LiFePO4 batteries from a fuel-powered generator. I have inverter-equipped power stations (Solar Generators) and high-capacity LiFePO4 batteries. Solar is great, but adding a fuel-burn generator can carry us through cloudy days or fast charge our batteries. I want to recharge my batteries with a fuel-burn generator at maximum efficiency. Can you add a video demonstrating how to maximize the fuel burn of a generator by recharging a solar generator and a LiFePO4 battery simultaneously and independently? Correct me if I am wrong, but I think I want to pull every bit of my fuel-burn generator's 3500 watts every minute it's running. My SolGen will pull 1,152Wh to recharge, but what 120v battery charger do I buy to maximize the remaining 2,348 Wh for my LiFePO4? The largest from Victron is 15A (1,800W). Should I buy (my situation) a 20A Powermax charger (20A*120V=2,400W) to charge them simultaneously? Or a 30A Powermax charger (30A*120V=3,600W) to get the most out of the gas generator for my largest battery? Will the 30A Powermax overload my fuel-burn generator if it's connected simultaneously to my SolGen?
this is actually very simple. Another prepper friend of mine and I disagree with solar. He recommends the Sportmans's 800w gas generator and a rapid charge instead of solar. So, here's the easy answer. amzn.to/4f5uVFH This is a very high current DC power supply. Use your volt meter to set it to 14.5, connect some large gauge wires (4, or 6 awg) and connect to your battery. Assuming your BMS is 100 amps or more, you can charge your battery VERY fast from your gas genny. You can buy a 100 amp version of this power supply, just make sure you use a 4 or a 2 awg and you can juice that thing up fast.
This product looks interesting at 120V, 3050W capacity attached to a "dirty" generator power source: ruclips.net/video/EjlycD9zGJQ/видео.htmlsi=xGxyF80J16HQrpkA
@@texasprepperprojects Thank you for the reply. I've heard that the sinewave of the gas generator output starts to suffer at loads over 75% of the rated output. Would you happen to have any experience?
3840wh? i wouldn't call that a "very very large power station". You should at least 3x that battery to be called borderline large. 2x that battery can only power your a fridge and some lights for maybe 2 days.
Compared to a river 2 at 260wh, or a delta at 1024, 3840 ain't bad, also considering it's under $1k. This will run my chest freezer for 3 days. So, it's all relevant I suppose.
@@texasprepperprojectsA standard residential refrigerator could exceed 1000 watts on startup. A small coffee pot will draw more than 1000 watts. You can not run a hot plate or an instant pot in an emergency with that inverter reliably. Now try doing a few of those things together. And for the sake of safety and not burning down you apartment, fuses and circuit protection should never be skipped. Just because you can assemble a bunch of parts for cheap does not make it a good idea or effective. And for solar, 700 watts will exceed any charging source you showed as an example.
A 1000w inverter should have a 2kw surge, which is enough to kick on a fridge and then settle down to a few hundred.. I'd never use a battery/inverter for a hot plate when a butane camp stove costs $20.
Anderson 175 connector attached to the battery would make switching back n' forth from the inverter to the charging solution quick and easy.
I have done that in thr past. I do like that method it just ads cost
Love seeing the old Ryobi is still working. Thanks for the video
I've literally had that drill for 22 years
@@texasprepperprojects I still have mine also it has a funky smell when I use it. Still works great also have all the New Ryobi stuff. Lol
Love it!
I love DYI, But as a beginner, I think I might go with 2, Eco-flow 3 PLUS…. Also I’m in a 2 BR CONDO… if I had a house and garage, would go ur way…
GREAT VID 👍👍
Understandable!
If I lived in an apartment, I would do the same. Smart thinking.
You can replace the Velcro with some zip ties around the screen. That’ll hold it in place and no need to worry about it coming off. Thanks for the vid! Great idea.
That's a great idea!
For safety, you really need a proper sized fuse between the battery and inverter. I have built these types of systems and safety must come first. Especially if they are going to be in an apartment. I was an Electrical Contractor for 45 years and a City Electrical Inspector for 10 years.
I do not disagree with that. thanks
I use the 10 to 1 rule. So if I am going to be pulling 1,000 watts, then I have a 100 amp fuse, or a little more than that for surge.
Thanks!
@@JoshP-e4v Hi, divide the watt hours of the battery you are using by the voltage of the battery you are using. Example: 1280 watt hours divided by 12.8 volts if using a 12.8 volt, 100ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery is equal to 100 amps. Always use a fuse that is 20% larger than what you calculated using that formula. The right size fuse for the example we just used would be a 120 amp DC fuse. Sometimes you can't find the exact fuse you need, so get the one that is the next size larger. Never go way larger, stay as close to the 120% number as you can. Also remember to size the wire you use between the battery and the inverter to be the correct size to match your fuse. Put the fuse between the battery and the inverter. Hope this helps.
@@JoshP-e4v Your very welcome.
Thanks for the video and advice. I am currently procuring the materials to build a 5000 watt unit . Canned units are just too expensive for me plus the knowledge that I gain will bring profitable if I need to troubleshoot and repair.
Check out my video on my 24v system and litime mppt. I think that is the way to go for a big system
@@texasprepperprojects I will. Thanks
Nice set up! Subscribed!!!
Glad you liked it!
I like this Concept for 2 24 Volt 100ah Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries and a Victron 24/1200 watt Inverter and a 150/35 Victron Smart Solar Charge Controller and 800 - 1000 watt solar array on The Vintage 40' Spartan Motorcoach Bunkhouse Conversion. 5K o Watt hours and a 5 to 6 hour sunny day to Recharge to floating seems very useful here in Southern California High Desert at Indian Creek Ranch 🌴 💦 🌵 ⛩
Sounds like you have a plan!
@@texasprepperprojects She's a Solid System and Drives an AC Unit, Efficient Refrigerator / Freezer and Microwave with ease.
Simple, but, effective. LOVE IT! Thanks for sharing.
You bet! Glad you enjoyed it.
Awesome build and very well done and easily affoardable. I appreciate your design was for "most bang for the buck." I do have a Ecoflow River Pro and am pleased with it but it just doesn't cut it when powering multiple devices that I listed here. For the life of me I do not understand why anyone would pay thousands for a decent sized unit like Ecoflow or similar. I built a similar unit to yours, but larger, 5,120 Wh. I constructed mine on a Harbor Frieght four-wheeled service cart. It is a bit pricey but worth it. It can be had for $99 on sale. The cart moves effortlessly. I have (4) 100Ah Litimes mounted underneath with a Victron Bluetooth Smart Shunt, I used and recommend the 300 amp Blue Sea Fuse Block Terminal. Up top, mounted on a cut to fit Baltic Birch 3/4" board, are a 2,000 watt inverter, a 40 amp MMPT HQST charge controller mounted on the end under the tray, a DC Power Center with USB, DC 12V barrel, cigarette lighter plug-in, 50 Amp power connectors, a bus bar, 600 Amp cut-off, and LED light. The system can be moved around effortlessly. I roll it out onto my deck and connect (2) 400W portable panels to it. I also have a 100Ah Litime Bluetooth battery, coupled with a 1000 watt inverter for camping. It runs my Starlink and ICECO fridge. Pay the extra $30 for the Bluetooth feature, it is well worth it. Bluetooth shows input and output amps and watts as well as SOC. The only other item I would like to add to my system is a Victron Battery Protect to shut the system down when voltage depletes to 10.5 volts. Don't let anyone fool ya, a portable fridge while camping is the only way to go, and is worth every penny of the cost. No more ice runs, water draining, water ruining food, etc. I subbed.
Check out my other videos for similar. 24v 5kw on a dolly
@@texasprepperprojects Will do. I will binge watch for a while.
Wondering if using multiple 100ah or 200ah batteries might be better if someone wanted to depend on solar recharges?
Charge another battery while using the first and then swap when needed?
PITA, I know but just thinking multi day outages
It won't matter. Two, 100 amp batteries is the same as one 200 amp battery. You are just pouring water into a different bucket. The best thing to do is buy 800w of solar and just do it right if you have the space.
Think that modular is giving better scalability, allthough there is a cost/ economy of scale effect: I bet that when time progresses 1x 12,8V 200Ah will be cheaper/kWh than 2 x 100Ah as BMS is required inside each of them and best formfactor/ dimensions depends where you will build it in: sometimes 2 small ones fit better than one big one...
Nice Compact Setup 👍
thanks!
Hey Texas enjoyed your video. My next diy project is exactly this project. I'm just gonna go with a 12V 460AH battery, have not decided which brand yet. I love this type of builds because I do not believe in buying extension batteries for my ecoflow. This is much cheaper. I did a 48V 100ah build but was quite disappointed as I never realized how inefficient a 48V inverter is. So now I'm going 12V. I'm hoping at 1500W inverter will be enough for a 26cu.ft. fridge. Great video.
The price on this 300ah is totally insane. If you want to do a big build I'd personally do two and make a 24v system. There are a lot of advantages to 24 over 12 or 48.
@@texasprepperprojects I'll have to explore 24V. Thanks for responding. Basically I'm just looking at expanding capacity on my EcoFlows for Fridge and Freezer but with the ability to connect an inverter only for redundancy in case my EcoFlow malfunctions. Something that a small solar array of 300 to 600 watts can charge should the need arise as I have a couple of Honda generators too charge the batteries in emergencies.
If you are wanting to expand an ecoflow then I do agree to stay 12v. Grab that 300ah mini for $459. Also you could buy 2, parallel them for 12v and then later as you grow series then for 24v
i use the hot glue works great for mounting meters and some times controllers
I have used hot glue a lot in a past life and it does eventually melt in the Tx heat. 2 part epoxy would be best but I switch my systems around too much to make it that permanent!
@@texasprepperprojects all my stuff in the house in air cond. so it works fine i have bought a bankrupt solar guy out have all kinds of panels having fun experimenting with 10 watt panels putting them in series i got 80v im changing things all the time i have made solar gen here FL ITS LEAGAL with out a permit hooking up a line at a time in the house to make it pay for it sefl
@@texasprepperprojects wow... that must be hot weather... I understand why you like that cooling fan.
You could add a power tools softstarter to use a smaller inverter
1,000w-2,000w inverters are so cheap now it's not worth with a soft start.
Good video.
9:06 I would suggest to install a small inline fuse on the small gauge that feeds the Shunt module in case the module shorted out or the wire falls off the module so that small wire will not catch on fire.
Valid and i agree. This was quick and dirty but that is a fail point
The screen looked like it had pressure tabs on the top and bottom. if you cut a hole the shape and size of the back, once you place it in the hole, the pressure tabs keep the meter snug in the hole.
You are correct and this is true, its just hard to get a good cut in wood that's an exact, tight fit.
@@texasprepperprojectsa router would cut a nice pocket using Rails as a Jig.
Someone mentioned using 48V system because it allows for smaller diameter wire… I heard 48V is some ideal thing but I do not know how I would use it if everything I know/have is 12V or 120AC. I would like to understand why it is believed by some, that 48V is better than the other “standard” options available to me. Any takers for this question?😊
The reason why people like 48v is because you have smaller currents between thr battery and imverter so you can use smaller wire. If you want to get to 12v, you have to use a step-down. I think 48v is overrated because you have to have high solar input voltage that is greater than cheap panels from Craigslist
Since it's a 12v system, you could connect this to a car battery on a car that is running to charge it up or you could charge it from a generator if you attach a charging cable to it. We use a dual-fueled (Propane & Gasoline) generator on a cloudy day when the solar panels can't charge ours.
Could!
Now, plug in your freezer, refrigerator, lights, and electric blanket, and see if you don't need a larger inverter.
And a bigger battery for all that
Great video bud, all the best for your you tubing future....this is really good content so I am fairly certain you will do well if you continue to put in the effort :)
I'd suggest adding solar to charge, even if you can't fully charge......if you have the space for those panels obv, a bit harder in some condo's....that way you can use your back up generator during non power outages and take a little off the top of that power bill. Also, if you have off peak, charge during those times.
Tonight we had power out for 3 hours....I'd lent my little system to a friend who is building a cabin......sorta wished I hadn't though!!!!
Thanks you!
Good 👍 idea..
Thanks!!
PLEASE switch to 48V. These 12V projects use those nasty huge cables. Thanks for the vid!
I think 24v is best. Check out my video on 12v v 24v
I know how to make the velcro stick,
USE SCREWS!! Duh.
Can't screw into the back of the meter
@texasprepperprojects right. But you can screw the velcro onto the wood. Then hang the meter on the velcro. Voilà
The velcro comes off the back of the meter also
I can 3D print a mount for the screen. it will hold It securely in place with 2-4 screws. Easy to install. I just need the dimensions of the screen.
Cool!
How bout velcro inverter to side of battery… AND , place this all in a Large plastic container to have it look clean…. I feel like in getting sucked down into a rabbit hole! 😂
Could!
Brilliant thank you
Thanks!
? Could you run the charger through inverter to charge the battery like using cell phone pluged into wall and still charges ? ❤ love your video please do more of them thanks a lot
That is known as an inveter charger. Go back and watch my $500 ups video from a few years ago
Can you include a parts list in the video description
It's in the description now
What shunt and meter did you use for project...Tanks
Its in the parts list in the description
To be able to screw that meter down you can glue a plate to it that extends out a quarter inch on each side drill holes into it and screw it down
Cool idea
I found your video very interesting. I was hoping for a solar power set up, as I am thinking of doing my own DIY. This is what I was looking to do. I want to be able to charge up a battery that will supply power to a digital window shaker for at least 8 hours at night and use a 450 watt bi-focal solar panel during the day, as they are now running for less than $200, along with the ability to charge from a home outlet. The solar panel I will install will be vertical with 2 insulated reflector material angle back to catch some ot the Sun at noon. I also want the ability to at least run my refrigerator for as long as possible with this setup too. I live in Florida and the hurricane power outages may last hours to days and losing all that expensive food is a downer. Any suggestions with parts listed or videos would be great. Again loved the video.
I lived in FL for many years. It's all about how much you want to spend. In my opinion a 24v system is idea for a mid size home solar system. 24v, 200ah with as much solar as you can afford. So, 2 of these batteries, the Litime 60 amp mppt from my other videos and a geindel 24v 2000w inverter would be a great home system that will not cost you much but grow as you grow.
@@texasprepperprojects just looking to do my window a/c as well as run my fridge when electric is out for more than 12 hours.
That's a big ask. A fridge is going to probably need 2kw per 24 hours. A very small window AC pulls 400w, so that's 9kw per 24 hours. Personally, i would get a chest freezer, turn it into a fridge, skip the AC and just use fans. If you really want AC, then use a generator. While the genny is running, get one of those 45 amp chargers I mentioned so you can charge up the batteries during the day and then run them at night instead of the genny.
@@texasprepperprojects
Probably a silly question but how do you turn a chest freezer into a fridge?
This was a very good video! It also showed me how little I know about electrical stuff.
You use a temperature controlled switch from Amazon. Program it to turn off at 32f and on at 37F so it never gets below freezing but doesn't get too hot
Where did you get the battery monitor??? Thanks have fun stay safe.
Hit the links in the description
@@texasprepperprojects all I saw was the battery link.
www.wattcycle.com/products/wattcycle-350a-lifepo4-battery-monitor
And use my code for a discount
Thanks
First, I love your videos. In regard to solar charging, you thought that this battery was too big to really be charged by solar. As a newbie, wouldn’t a partial charge on a large battery be the same as a full charge on a small battery? I could use a smaller battery to get a full solar charge, but I feel that if my power went out and then I had to use this setup, a solar panel would be better than nothing and better than a fully charged smaller battery. Thoughts?
I'm never against solar in any form. I just wanted to give an opinion on reasonable expectations. Some solar is certainly better than no solar, but most new people don't understand peak sunlight hours. I'd never tell someone not to put a 100w panel on a battery as long as they understand how far that is going to get them. In a perfect world your solar should be 1/4 your battery capacity or more, but take what you can get!
Thank you. Since I’m pretty new to this, is my assessment correct that the larger battery is better even if you can’t charge it completely vs a smaller battery that can be fully charged?
Eh, I think the answer would be yes. Having a 'bigger gas tank' never hurt anyone!
@@billwollard8072 As Texasprepper said, yes , is the answer.
I'll add providing we are talking Lifepo4 which we are, as that is the subject of the video. Just to be clear.
It's not the case for lead batteries.
You list me on the shunt. What is that for?
The metal shunt connects to the screen that shows you how much capacity you have left in the battery. You can't use a volt meter on a lipo4
I would think twice about solar because there’s no better feeling than free electricity.
Check out my other videos. I do solar just not on this tiny build
Fuses, breakers? Not needed?
You should. I just didn't on this low cost unit
8:10 to 9:00 Lost me right there, so you have to reset AFTER each item is plugged in?
No just once
Would fuses be useful?
Generally yes. I just skipped it
What type of fuse would you recommend for this size battery
100 amp
10:53 Can the charger terminals REMAIN CONNECTED at all times?
Should be able to
why not something like a Pecron?
Compare the price of a 3840wh pecron to this.
Could you not 3D print a case for the battery monitor? Yes you need a 3D printer or purchase services of someone who does but more secure and does not cover screen.
You could but I don't own a 3d printer. I'd rather just use velcro or epoxy or zip ties.
No fuse ?
No. I talk about this. I really should but typically don't
10:20 Are you confident that setup would run a refrigerator for 48 hours?
Depends on the fridge but fairly sure
@@texasprepperprojects Or if you have kids opening the door every few minutes. lol
@@2kingrich truth!
I haven't found anything on RUclips offering strategies for quickly charging a mixture of SolGens and LiFePO4 batteries from a fuel-powered generator. I have inverter-equipped power stations (Solar Generators) and high-capacity LiFePO4 batteries. Solar is great, but adding a fuel-burn generator can carry us through cloudy days or fast charge our batteries. I want to recharge my batteries with a fuel-burn generator at maximum efficiency. Can you add a video demonstrating how to maximize the fuel burn of a generator by recharging a solar generator and a LiFePO4 battery simultaneously and independently? Correct me if I am wrong, but I think I want to pull every bit of my fuel-burn generator's 3500 watts every minute it's running. My SolGen will pull 1,152Wh to recharge, but what 120v battery charger do I buy to maximize the remaining 2,348 Wh for my LiFePO4? The largest from Victron is 15A (1,800W). Should I buy (my situation) a 20A Powermax charger (20A*120V=2,400W) to charge them simultaneously? Or a 30A Powermax charger (30A*120V=3,600W) to get the most out of the gas generator for my largest battery? Will the 30A Powermax overload my fuel-burn generator if it's connected simultaneously to my SolGen?
this is actually very simple. Another prepper friend of mine and I disagree with solar. He recommends the Sportmans's 800w gas generator and a rapid charge instead of solar. So, here's the easy answer. amzn.to/4f5uVFH This is a very high current DC power supply. Use your volt meter to set it to 14.5, connect some large gauge wires (4, or 6 awg) and connect to your battery. Assuming your BMS is 100 amps or more, you can charge your battery VERY fast from your gas genny. You can buy a 100 amp version of this power supply, just make sure you use a 4 or a 2 awg and you can juice that thing up fast.
This product looks interesting at 120V, 3050W capacity attached to a "dirty" generator power source: ruclips.net/video/EjlycD9zGJQ/видео.htmlsi=xGxyF80J16HQrpkA
@@texasprepperprojects Thank you for the reply. I've heard that the sinewave of the gas generator output starts to suffer at loads over 75% of the rated output. Would you happen to have any experience?
No experience but i have heard similar
3840wh? i wouldn't call that a "very very large power station". You should at least 3x that battery to be called borderline large. 2x that battery can only power your a fridge and some lights for maybe 2 days.
Compared to a river 2 at 260wh, or a delta at 1024, 3840 ain't bad, also considering it's under $1k. This will run my chest freezer for 3 days. So, it's all relevant I suppose.
1000W AC out is too small. 1800W should be a min.
Why is that
@@texasprepperprojectsA standard residential refrigerator could exceed 1000 watts on startup. A small coffee pot will draw more than 1000 watts. You can not run a hot plate or an instant pot in an emergency with that inverter reliably. Now try doing a few of those things together. And for the sake of safety and not burning down you apartment, fuses and circuit protection should never be skipped. Just because you can assemble a bunch of parts for cheap does not make it a good idea or effective. And for solar, 700 watts will exceed any charging source you showed as an example.
A 1000w inverter should have a 2kw surge, which is enough to kick on a fridge and then settle down to a few hundred.. I'd never use a battery/inverter for a hot plate when a butane camp stove costs $20.
Nice video i like to see different setups ,the internet is full of armchair electrical engineer's 12/24/48 ...
Opinions are like assholes lol.
Thanks!