There is this rubber thing you can buy that cleans off dust from the sander really fast. It is amazing. You just run the sander on it for 10 seconds. It saves a lot of sand paper
Hi Antonio, to be honest, we haven't tried a lot of different sanders. We have a couple of BOSCH ROS20VSC Palm Sander 2.5 Amp 5 In. Variable Speed Random Orbital Sanders that we use most of the time and a SurfPrep for sanding detailed & rounded corners and edges. Those work well for us but we have heard of some other sanders which are more powerful and make the sanding process faster but they are also more expensive. Good luck with your project!
@@secondchanceohana thank you since I’m a beginner got the craftsman I used it before I was afraid to mess it I got that one you have but I was scared took it back but thank you for taking your time
@soniasmith3042, yes, if you press too hard, it will actually stop spinning and then it's really not doing its job. But if it wasn't removing the finish, maybe you need to go to a lower grit. Also, check to see if your sander has different power levels. Maybe you can increase it's power.
Help I did my first project on laminate wood and I didn’t realize it was the laminate.. and I sanded through to the mdf.. is it salvageable? It’s all mdf on the top 🙃 can I just seal and paint anyway?
Hi Lea! Yes, you can prime with a primer that is oil-based, shellac or enamel (but NOT water-based/acrylic primers as they will make the MDF swell), Then do a very light smoothing sand (if needed) and paint. I should turn out fine. Good luck!
Yes, I believe you are right. Going with the grain is important with hand sanding and other sanders but not the orbital sanders. It's kind of a habit so we just do it that way....
Hi Kristen, what's the plan for your piece? Are you going to be painting it? Gluing it back down is probably your best bet. If there are small chunks missing, you can use bondo to fill in those spots. Removing a whole piece of veneer is a lot of work, we recommend laying a damp rag on it for a couple hours then using an iron on top of the wet rag to steam the veneer to loosen the adhesive. Then you slowly have to chip away at it to finish removing it. Good luck!
That's a great question. Leeann. We prefer to not use chemicals. If the finish is really tough to sand we will try scraping with a good carbide scraper and then sanding and if that doesn't do the trick we will use a stripper.
Can i just do 2 grits? I got a table off marketplace and it took forever to sand... and ive only completed one round of 80 grit. The idea of having to sand it 2 or more times before staining makes me want to set it on the front yard for someone to take lol
Haha, I totally understand. 80 is a really rough grit, so it would be best to do at least two steps up. Perhaps a 120 and 180. Are you planning on staining it or painting it?
@@secondchanceohana I was going to stain it. Do you usually do 3 grits before staining? And what grit do you find is best to start at? I had a heck of a time sanding off all the varnish and stain. Thanks so much for replying at all :)
@@laloops Of course! Sorry the first reply took so long. We were on vacation and not checking in with our social media. 🙈 If you're going to stain it, I would go up to 220. That will help prevent blotchiness. So in that case, if you only do 2 more layers of sanding, I would do 150 and 220. Good luck!
@@secondchanceohana that's understandable I honestly took a long time to trust that it would even be ok to do when I first started woodworking it probably took me a few times before I trusted it completely but definitely not a bad practice to get into as far as going truth the grains! Also there are round disc sander out there that are not random orbital as well so I would definitely check to make sure if someone is new and doesn't know for sure! A example would be the cheaper ones they have at Walmart they have both random and just a regular sander they both look the same my neighbor had purchased one of these and told me that what he was doing didn't turn out well if I was sure about a random orbital sander so I checked it out and sure enough it was just a reg sander so beware anyone newer definitely don't want to mess up something that should be easy lol
I've seen various results which all result similarly whether you sand in any of these methods with a random orbital: - Little/no pressure and guide the orbital - Pressure and guide the orbital - pressure and move along the grain like as though sanding by hand Could you elaborate on why light touch on sander is best? I'd genuinly like to know.
In our experience, light sanding helps to decrease or eliminate the chances of burning through veneer, sanding off (deforming), edges and curves and leaving those sanding swirls in the wood. Other factors contribute to those issues so it is not always the heavy pressure used. things like using the correct grit of sandpaper, thickness of veneer and hardness/ softness of the wood. Saying all of that, there are other times when a light hand just won't take off the finish, then it is best to try a carbide scraper or a chemical stripper.
Hi there, we use Festool dust extractors with our sanders as it makes a HUGE difference BUT many people just use the small dust bags that come with the sanders or nothing at all.
Hi Aleks, you can certainly do that. We just found that at times it can leave swirl marks unless you use a 150 or 180 before using the 220 so our routine is to not jump. Thanks
@@secondchanceohana thank you so much for replying! I don't know much about sanding so I didn't know what numbers are even in between those two. I'll now be able to buy those sheets. Thanks :)
Good question. If you are taking it down to raw wood, it can take us days depending on how hard it is to get off the layers of the old finish, how large the piece is and how careful we have to be with the veneer. If we are going to paint and there are no areas that need to be repaired, it is usually just a quick scuff up sand so the paint adheres well.
We love the ones we are currently using which are the Bosch orbital palm sander for large surface areas and Surfprep 3 x 4 electric ray sander for the curves and small detail areas.
Hi Kit, we just put out a new "full" length video yesterday: ruclips.net/video/UQdWcBo2xuA/видео.html We are still going to do the shorts because many people find value in them. It certainly is not our intent to attack the family with them....
I love that you and your Mom work together. You make an amazing team. I do have a question. I got just a cheap orbital sander. It just moves in 1 direction. If you are not careful it leaves rings. Is there a different in a orbital sander and a random orbital sander. It seams the the random sander goes back and forth as well as around. I really would like a square palm type sander but I don't like to keep changing the sandpaper I wish I could get a serve prep sander. They just cost so much. I think I said that right. Do you have any suggestions on a good multi purpose sander until I get get a fee pieces of furniture moved.
Thank you so much! We are extremely blessed that we are able to work together right now. We don't have experience with a ton of sanders but really like the "BOSCH ROS20VSC Palm Sander 2.5 Amp 5 in. Corded Variable Speed Random Orbital Sander". (On Amazon for about $60 right now). We have had ours for about a year and half. We can still get swirl marks with them if we try to rush through our sanding process, bear down too hard or try to skip one of the sanding grits (like go directly from 120 grit to 220 grit) but fortunately that has happened for awhile.
That is correct an orbital sander only spins one direction where as a random orbital sander goes vibrates while going back and forth and kind of oscillates. Unfortunately changing the sand paper a lot is kinda the “name of the game” it you want a great final result. A tip for changing pads is buying the larger pads as they can cover more area and get the pads that hook on instead of stick on, as they are better for multiple uses and easier to change, they are more expensive but better quickly sand paper will have a great impact on the final results! Some tips to avoid swirls marks are don’t press down too hard or really barely press at all as this can burn the surface as well as swirl. I used to us a compressor or a fan to blow away saw dust as well as a sand paper eraser to clean your paper if needed with a rough grit sand paper but that’s more so used with belt sander and usually not an issue with orbitals. Go in a back and forth motion following the grain as a posed to a circular motion. Don’t use too much power and when you get to an edge let half of the sander hang over the edge instead of just sanding to the edge. Don’t take on too much area at once and go slowly maybe moving about 1 to 2 inches per second. Hope this helps!
Another tip for sanding : the brand of sandpaper varies wildly and they degrade at different rates. According to a large roundup, the best sand paper is 3M Cubitron. It had great cutting and kept its "sharpness" more than twice the rest. Diablo sand net is a good alternative. The Bosch random orbital you have is very popular and affordable. Its also one of the slowest at cutting. Like bottom of the barrel. It's safe for delicate surfaces with its slow cutting ability but if you are doing more volume or large pieces I recommend a different machine. Black and Decker is a fantastic budget random orbital but I personally upgraded to a ebay bought factory refurbished Makita. It's quieter and definitely impressed me with its smooth vibration and fast cutting ability especially when I upgraded to the DIABLO brand of paper vs cheap stuff I was buying. When starting out I never could tell when to change the sandpaper on my orbital. Then I found a video where they used a robot arm to sand a block of wood and every 5 minutes they stopped to weigh it to test the cutting and rate of degradation of different brands paper. Every single one of them performed half as good after only 5 minutes almost all of them where barely removing anything after ten minutes. The 3m cubitron paper single handedly swept the competition and kept cutting for over ten minutes and at the 15 minute mark just kept going as if brand new. Very impressed and I will definitely buy that next. Now I know not to keep a paper for over ten minutes of working time even if it visibly doesn't look clogged or worn.
With random orbital sanders you can sand in any direction! If sanding by hand or using any other type of sander is when you have to use the grain
I think you are right! We have had a few different people tell us that now. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
There is this rubber thing you can buy that cleans off dust from the sander really fast. It is amazing. You just run the sander on it for 10 seconds. It saves a lot of sand paper
Yes, that's a great tip! We still don't have one of those. I think they're only like $10 too. Defintely need to get one!
What’s the best sander the you’ll recommend for oak pews
Hi Antonio, to be honest, we haven't tried a lot of different sanders. We have a couple of BOSCH ROS20VSC Palm Sander 2.5 Amp 5 In. Variable Speed Random Orbital Sanders that we use most of the time and a SurfPrep for sanding detailed & rounded corners and edges. Those work well for us but we have heard of some other sanders which are more powerful and make the sanding process faster but they are also more expensive. Good luck with your project!
@@secondchanceohana thank you since I’m a beginner got the craftsman I used it before I was afraid to mess it I got that one you have but I was scared took it back but thank you for taking your time
I find if you skip, you have to work much longer with the fine grit to get the scratches out.
thank you so much sister for sharing things you learnt in the hard way but not wanting others to learn the same hard way. Appreciate your thoughts.
My pleasure 😊 Thank you so much!
😅 exactly what I needed, I thought I had to get it all off on the first grit used
Buy a rotex 150 and granat paper from festool
Your wasting your own time with the method outlined here even tho you are having fun 😊
Oh my gosh! That looks like an amazing sander. We may have to invest in one of those!😀
Listen it will save you hundreds of hours
Look into it
Thanks for the reply
the most boring narration ever OMG, almost fell a sleep
Haha, okay hope you got some good rest
I have a Ryobi orbit sander and it didn't do anything so I will try it again and let it do the light touch Ok and thanks. I will trust you lol👀😂❤
@soniasmith3042, yes, if you press too hard, it will actually stop spinning and then it's really not doing its job. But if it wasn't removing the finish, maybe you need to go to a lower grit. Also, check to see if your sander has different power levels. Maybe you can increase it's power.
@@secondchanceohanaThank you this was EXTREMELY helpful!
@@WarmongerYT So glad to hear. Thanks!
Help I did my first project on laminate wood and I didn’t realize it was the laminate.. and I sanded through to the mdf.. is it salvageable? It’s all mdf on the top 🙃 can I just seal and paint anyway?
Hi Lea! Yes, you can prime with a primer that is oil-based, shellac or enamel (but NOT water-based/acrylic primers as they will make the MDF swell), Then do a very light smoothing sand (if needed) and paint. I should turn out fine. Good luck!
Why who the direction of the grain if the thing is spinning in circles. Wouldn’t make a difference
Yes, I believe you are right. Going with the grain is important with hand sanding and other sanders but not the orbital sanders. It's kind of a habit so we just do it that way....
I have some chunks of veneer that want to peel off. Should I take off the whole veneer top or can I try to regular it?
Hi Kristen, what's the plan for your piece? Are you going to be painting it? Gluing it back down is probably your best bet. If there are small chunks missing, you can use bondo to fill in those spots. Removing a whole piece of veneer is a lot of work, we recommend laying a damp rag on it for a couple hours then using an iron on top of the wet rag to steam the veneer to loosen the adhesive. Then you slowly have to chip away at it to finish removing it. Good luck!
Aloha! Do you go straight to sanding or do you use a chemical to remove the clear coating or paint?
That's a great question. Leeann. We prefer to not use chemicals. If the finish is really tough to sand we will try scraping with a good carbide scraper and then sanding and if that doesn't do the trick we will use a stripper.
Can i just do 2 grits? I got a table off marketplace and it took forever to sand... and ive only completed one round of 80 grit. The idea of having to sand it 2 or more times before staining makes me want to set it on the front yard for someone to take lol
Haha, I totally understand. 80 is a really rough grit, so it would be best to do at least two steps up. Perhaps a 120 and 180. Are you planning on staining it or painting it?
@@secondchanceohana I was going to stain it. Do you usually do 3 grits before staining? And what grit do you find is best to start at? I had a heck of a time sanding off all the varnish and stain. Thanks so much for replying at all :)
@@laloops Of course! Sorry the first reply took so long. We were on vacation and not checking in with our social media. 🙈 If you're going to stain it, I would go up to 220. That will help prevent blotchiness. So in that case, if you only do 2 more layers of sanding, I would do 150 and 220. Good luck!
this is so much more helpful than the longer videos out there. thanks v much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
U dont need to sand with the grain with a random orbital sander u can send in any direction u want with no issues
Yes, that is true! Thanks for pointing that out. We always do sand with the grain just because we were taught to do that and it is a habit now.
@@secondchanceohana that's understandable I honestly took a long time to trust that it would even be ok to do when I first started woodworking it probably took me a few times before I trusted it completely but definitely not a bad practice to get into as far as going truth the grains! Also there are round disc sander out there that are not random orbital as well so I would definitely check to make sure if someone is new and doesn't know for sure! A example would be the cheaper ones they have at Walmart they have both random and just a regular sander they both look the same my neighbor had purchased one of these and told me that what he was doing didn't turn out well if I was sure about a random orbital sander so I checked it out and sure enough it was just a reg sander so beware anyone newer definitely don't want to mess up something that should be easy lol
I've seen various results which all result similarly whether you sand in any of these methods with a random orbital:
- Little/no pressure and guide the orbital
- Pressure and guide the orbital
- pressure and move along the grain like as though sanding by hand
Could you elaborate on why light touch on sander is best? I'd genuinly like to know.
In our experience, light sanding helps to decrease or eliminate the chances of burning through veneer, sanding off (deforming), edges and curves and leaving those sanding swirls in the wood. Other factors contribute to those issues so it is not always the heavy pressure used. things like using the correct grit of sandpaper, thickness of veneer and hardness/ softness of the wood.
Saying all of that, there are other times when a light hand just won't take off the finish, then it is best to try a carbide scraper or a chemical stripper.
So do you hook up your home vacuum to it?
Hi there, we use Festool dust extractors with our sanders as it makes a HUGE difference BUT many people just use the small dust bags that come with the sanders or nothing at all.
"dont jump from 120 to 220" but the tiny sander i bought came with 50, 80, and then 120 and 220 😂😭
Hi Aleks, you can certainly do that. We just found that at times it can leave swirl marks unless you use a 150 or 180 before using the 220 so our routine is to not jump. Thanks
@@secondchanceohana thank you so much for replying! I don't know much about sanding so I didn't know what numbers are even in between those two. I'll now be able to buy those sheets. Thanks :)
How long does sanding normally take?
Good question. If you are taking it down to raw wood, it can take us days depending on how hard it is to get off the layers of the old finish, how large the piece is and how careful we have to be with the veneer. If we are going to paint and there are no areas that need to be repaired, it is usually just a quick scuff up sand so the paint adheres well.
Forever. Finishing is my absolute LEAST favorite part of building! 😩
Thank you for helping me not completely destroy my first project :)
Haha.... can totally relate. Thanks for watching!
What sander do you like
We love the ones we are currently using which are the Bosch orbital palm sander for large surface areas and Surfprep 3 x 4 electric ray sander for the curves and small detail areas.
We.miss you "family" interactions.
These short videos are another attack on the family.
Hi Kit, we just put out a new "full" length video yesterday: ruclips.net/video/UQdWcBo2xuA/видео.html
We are still going to do the shorts because many people find value in them. It certainly is not our intent to attack the family with them....
I love that you and your Mom work together. You make an amazing team.
I do have a question. I got just a cheap orbital sander. It just moves in 1 direction. If you are not careful it leaves rings. Is there a different in a orbital sander and a random orbital sander. It seams the the random sander goes back and forth as well as around. I really would like a square palm type sander but I don't like to keep changing the sandpaper I wish I could get a serve prep sander. They just cost so much. I think I said that right. Do you have any suggestions on a good multi purpose sander until I get get a fee pieces of furniture moved.
Thank you so much! We are extremely blessed that we are able to work together right now. We don't have experience with a ton of sanders but really like the "BOSCH ROS20VSC Palm Sander 2.5 Amp 5 in. Corded Variable Speed Random Orbital Sander". (On Amazon for about $60 right now). We have had ours for about a year and half. We can still get swirl marks with them if we try to rush through our sanding process, bear down too hard or try to skip one of the sanding grits (like go directly from 120 grit to 220 grit) but fortunately that has happened for awhile.
Shout out to moms everywhere!
That is correct an orbital sander only spins one direction where as a random orbital sander goes vibrates while going back and forth and kind of oscillates. Unfortunately changing the sand paper a lot is kinda the “name of the game” it you want a great final result. A tip for changing pads is buying the larger pads as they can cover more area and get the pads that hook on instead of stick on, as they are better for multiple uses and easier to change, they are more expensive but better quickly sand paper will have a great impact on the final results! Some tips to avoid swirls marks are don’t press down too hard or really barely press at all as this can burn the surface as well as swirl. I used to us a compressor or a fan to blow away saw dust as well as a sand paper eraser to clean your paper if needed with a rough grit sand paper but that’s more so used with belt sander and usually not an issue with orbitals. Go in a back and forth motion following the grain as a posed to a circular motion. Don’t use too much power and when you get to an edge let half of the sander hang over the edge instead of just sanding to the edge. Don’t take on too much area at once and go slowly maybe moving about 1 to 2 inches per second.
Hope this helps!
Another tip for sanding : the brand of sandpaper varies wildly and they degrade at different rates. According to a large roundup, the best sand paper is 3M Cubitron. It had great cutting and kept its "sharpness" more than twice the rest. Diablo sand net is a good alternative.
The Bosch random orbital you have is very popular and affordable. Its also one of the slowest at cutting. Like bottom of the barrel. It's safe for delicate surfaces with its slow cutting ability but if you are doing more volume or large pieces I recommend a different machine. Black and Decker is a fantastic budget random orbital but I personally upgraded to a ebay bought factory refurbished Makita. It's quieter and definitely impressed me with its smooth vibration and fast cutting ability especially when I upgraded to the DIABLO brand of paper vs cheap stuff I was buying.
When starting out I never could tell when to change the sandpaper on my orbital. Then I found a video where they used a robot arm to sand a block of wood and every 5 minutes they stopped to weigh it to test the cutting and rate of degradation of different brands paper. Every single one of them performed half as good after only 5 minutes almost all of them where barely removing anything after ten minutes. The 3m cubitron paper single handedly swept the competition and kept cutting for over ten minutes and at the 15 minute mark just kept going as if brand new. Very impressed and I will definitely buy that next. Now I know not to keep a paper for over ten minutes of working time even if it visibly doesn't look clogged or worn.
ruclips.net/video/NZDCRFi8dKY/видео.html
Here's the sandpaper shootout.
What sander is this?
We use a Bosch random orbital as our main sander and hook it up to Festool dust extractor. Love it!
Love this thank u
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!