Hi Daniel, Your videos are very informative, I'm in the throws of setting up my own shop, I trained as Blacksmith in the Army back in 97 but time and circumstances have prevented me in getting started so your videos are helping remember some of the skills I forgot. I shall look forward to more of your videos 👍
I really like your technique of using a small, narrow slitting punch to start the hole making process rather than a round punch. It really does minimize loss of material. Thanks for pointing out something to make hole punching more efficient.
Hey, great video great job great instruction great everything! As always. Very skilled and very good manner of explanation for the beginner or even slightly advanced or possibly advanced depending on the people. Just wonderful. Thank you for sharing. Have a beautiful day or evening and be well. Jim
Great pure content, would love to see a series on joint samples, ie, punching 20mm square through 20mm square, Joints tensioned & riveted etc breaking each individual joint into easy to follow steps. ATB, Dave
Thanks for sharing your process. I've had good success using coal dust as a lubricant when punching, curious if you have as well. Looking forward to the tenon video, as I will be starting my first gate soon.
Have you tried striking chisels, punches, stamps etc. with a soft head hammer? Just annealed low carbon steel and the blow is more even and the tool last longer. It really is impressive. It doesn't crack like brass and it's much cheaper. Jewelers use soft tin hammers for fancy stamps. Good instruction.
Have you done a video on making a slitting punch? If not, could you? All of the holes I’ve seen done have been with a round punch, but it looks a lot quicker with the slitting punch.
Enjoyed the video, have it filed for future reference. Noted that the the second color (RED) used with captions was very difficult to read as it was over the darker area (anvil) at the bottom of the screen. Maybe try a different color or lighter shade.
Hi Dan, I've recently gotten into your channel and I think you deserve far more subscribers than you have presently! You have a really nice way of instructing - calm, friendly and in no way condescending, but brimming with useful information. I've already picked up a lot of things from you that I hadn't heard mentioned elsewhere. I haven't looked through all of your videos so apologies if you've covered these, but I'd love to see your take on a basic forge weld tutorial, perhaps for something like a turkey's foot poker end. I'd also be interested to hear your tips for getting really clean-looking half-lap rivet joints; I've really started to favour these recently but my success rate at getting them all looking uniform is not great! Luke
I'm terrible at forge welding and getting better at ut is something I need to do. So maybe by trying a video on this stuff migyt be a good idea. Thanks for the great comment your too kind.
As I watch, I can see one of my problem is my noster bounce about.Might get a bigger and heavy noster or use my hold down clamp Thanks it's great to see someone confident Blacksmith showing a upgrade of the right way. Daniel I thank you Sir
Awesome job sir, loving the videos. As far as a suggestion I would say keep it going through the project there are tenon's still and some of the other tips on footing things up.
Great video Dan. Do you always work this methodically or just for videos? I enjoy the pace at which you present tutorials and I’m curious if it changes when you’re working alone. Thanks again for the great content.
My only question: At what size of a hole do you use a slit punch vs a round punch? Is it a difference in the hole size vs stock size or just a generalization (say 6mm or smaller gets a round punch and drift to size and over 8mm gets a slit and drift to round)?
Ok, well the thing I'm currently having trouble with is brazing in the forge. I don't own a torch, so figured I'd try it in the forge, but it did not work to plan as yet. Any tips on that front would be most useful.
I've only ever used oval and round punches, seeing this demonstration, I kind of wonder why even bother with them? The slitting punch seemingly removes very little material and has less resistance to punching through. The ony thing I can think of right at the moment is for quite small holes where making a drift that's actually sturdy enough could perhaps be problematic.
If your damaging your anvil with hand tools I would suggest that there is an issue. I get what your saying but I don't harden any if my hot work tool. Its part of the reason I've stopped using air harding steels on the anvil.
@@danielmoss2089 ahh, okay. I only had in mind my course where I chiseled a piece half way. So I thought, every tool with a sharp edge or a point should not get in touch with the anvil
Quite correct best practice is to never hit the anvil face as it will damage the tool and possibly your anvil. Also the chisels need to brake through the hot metal in order to cut. This can't be done on a hardened face like an anvil. Ali and mild get damaged but the tougher steel of the chisel doesn't. I cut on Ali when I'm finishing of the cut. Hope that makes some sense!
Hi Daniel,
Your videos are very informative, I'm in the throws of setting up my own shop, I trained as Blacksmith in the Army back in 97 but time and circumstances have prevented me in getting started so your videos are helping remember some of the skills I forgot. I shall look forward to more of your videos 👍
I really like your technique of using a small, narrow slitting punch to start the hole making process rather than a round punch. It really does minimize loss of material. Thanks for pointing out something to make hole punching more efficient.
Anything you show is helpful .
This video really changed the way I well be punching holes .cheers.
This practical day to day stuff is great. Have a great day.
Always interesting to see how you do things and pick up little things I might have missed in my process. Always trying to improve. Thank you.
Pleased to help where I can.
Great Instruction ! Thank You !
This is terrific. You take the time even though you could be whipping through. Thanks.
Great video! Heading out to the forge right now! Thanks
Always a pleasure. It might be nice to see your favorite female blacksmith!
Excellent video Mr. Moss 👍✌
Excellent video. Found this really helpful and I’ll give it a try next time I’m at the farm. Cheers for sharing the knowledge
Hey, great video great job great instruction great everything! As always. Very skilled and very good manner of explanation for the beginner or even slightly advanced or possibly advanced depending on the people. Just wonderful. Thank you for sharing. Have a beautiful day or evening and be well. Jim
As usual another great teaching video Dan Big Thumbs Up !
love these detailed vids of basic smithing- with real skill level. Keep it up Mate!
You mentioned upsetting after slit punching to help open up the hole. I must try that!
Yeah it can but I need to make the punched hole just a touch bigger. I could have used a wider punch and done that. It would work great.
Very nice demo. Thank you.
Tools don't make the blacksmith, but they sure do make the job easier!
Pretty darn awesome Dan! Thanks and God Bless you sir!
Great pure content, would love to see a series on joint samples, ie, punching 20mm square through 20mm square, Joints tensioned & riveted etc breaking each individual joint into easy to follow steps.
ATB, Dave
*Tennoned
Note next video like this will be related to the tenons for round hole. I should think heel tenons will also come up at some point as well.
This video was very helpful, thanks.
Pleasure and I'm glad it was helpful.
Very nice , enjoyed. Very instructive.
Thanks for sharing your process. I've had good success using coal dust as a lubricant when punching, curious if you have as well. Looking forward to the tenon video, as I will be starting my first gate soon.
I do under the power hammer. I've only just started using the wax and graphit.
Very cool Daniel thanks for sharing I’d love to see some traditional jointery
Very helpful video thank you so much. keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend forge on love the videos
Nice video you did a great job. I would like to see how you make slot punches, hot chisels and drifts . Thanks have a good day
Have you tried striking chisels, punches, stamps etc. with a soft head hammer? Just annealed low carbon steel and the blow is more even and the tool last longer. It really is impressive. It doesn't crack like brass and it's much cheaper. Jewelers use soft tin hammers for fancy stamps. Good instruction.
Great video, really helpfull...always enjoy seeing your vidéos.
Thanks Dan
Really like the detailed instruction. I've punched some with poor results. Draw through is my nemesis.
Something satisfying about a perfectly formed slug.
Not so satisfying is a disappearing slug 😂
@@danielmoss2089 really minimal material loss from punching 😅
How about an upset shoulder mortise & tenon joint like those done on the top rails of old blacksmithed gate's
Enjoyed the video however I would like to know what you do with the rounded out sides?
Have you done a video on making a slitting punch? If not, could you? All of the holes I’ve seen done have been with a round punch, but it looks a lot quicker with the slitting punch.
I can do something I think.
I like your videos there always so interesting keep them coming.
love to see a bit about how you get your ideas for your artistic architectural forging it is the type of work I want to get into
Enjoyed the video, have it filed for future reference. Noted that the the second color (RED) used with captions was very difficult to read as it was over the darker area (anvil) at the bottom of the screen. Maybe try a different color or lighter shade.
Noted thanks
Hi Dan,
I've recently gotten into your channel and I think you deserve far more subscribers than you have presently! You have a really nice way of instructing - calm, friendly and in no way condescending, but brimming with useful information. I've already picked up a lot of things from you that I hadn't heard mentioned elsewhere.
I haven't looked through all of your videos so apologies if you've covered these, but I'd love to see your take on a basic forge weld tutorial, perhaps for something like a turkey's foot poker end.
I'd also be interested to hear your tips for getting really clean-looking half-lap rivet joints; I've really started to favour these recently but my success rate at getting them all looking uniform is not great!
Luke
I'm terrible at forge welding and getting better at ut is something I need to do. So maybe by trying a video on this stuff migyt be a good idea. Thanks for the great comment your too kind.
@@danielmoss2089 You and me both haha! The best way to learn is by doing 😀
Thank you, Daniel. Been a while since I checked in. Love the video, great job. Hope all is well... Take care...
I noticed that you rotated the punch 180 degrees I will try that
Fabulous video!
Does lump charcoal dust work the same as coal dust for a drift/pinch release agent?
As I watch, I can see one of my problem is my noster bounce about.Might get a bigger and heavy noster or use my hold down clamp
Thanks it's great to see someone confident Blacksmith showing a upgrade of the right way.
Daniel I thank you Sir
Great video, thank you for sharing
Awesome job sir, loving the videos. As far as a suggestion I would say keep it going through the project there are tenon's still and some of the other tips on footing things up.
Nice...What material do you recommend for the slitting punch and sizing punch? Thanks
Thanks for sharing
Pleasure hope it was some help
Hey Dan, thanks for the video, take care 👍
Thanks Dan... As usual, great vid' instructive and clear.
I'd love more forge-food...
Take care!
Thanks! Very helpful!!
Beautiful, clean work and very well explained - thank you very much! :-)
Is there any reason you couldn't have a slot punch/drift all in one tool? Slot punch that gradually tapers up to the hole size you want all in one go?
Great Video, are the holes in the bolster the same size as the punch used or are the slightly over sized?? Thanks joe
I have forklift tine. Steel prices have gone up. But cutting it with an angle grinder is not so simple. Any special tech to do it?
Very useful. Thanks
Great video Dan. Do you always work this methodically or just for videos? I enjoy the pace at which you present tutorials and I’m curious if it changes when you’re working alone. Thanks again for the great content.
I try to lol
Dan Do you make your own beeswax graphite lubricant or do your purchase it? if you make it what is the formula and where do you get components
My only question: At what size of a hole do you use a slit punch vs a round punch? Is it a difference in the hole size vs stock size or just a generalization (say 6mm or smaller gets a round punch and drift to size and over 8mm gets a slit and drift to round)?
Do you have a video on making your own bolster plate as well as drifts and punches? That would be a good video showing how to make those tools.
I'm sure there's something.
Dan what happens if you don't have some of the gear you have for hole punching?
You don't get quite as nice holes. What are you missing. I made the drift for this video.
@@danielmoss2089 thanks Dan it was only that I have just an punch.
Very cool, and great show!! As for suggestions, do the rest, as for tennons n such. Great stuff in that. Thank Sir !!🍺😉⚒️❤️👍👍
Great video! I should invest some time to do some proper drifts, punches and a bolster.
Very nice video
Is there some other simple projects you could create videos for?
Your back to basics videos were very informative.
Army
SE Oregon USA
Ok, well the thing I'm currently having trouble with is brazing in the forge. I don't own a torch, so figured I'd try it in the forge, but it did not work to plan as yet. Any tips on that front would be most useful.
Never done that. I ll have a look I know John at Black Bear Forge has recently.
I've never heard of "brazing" in a forge,,, could that also mean forge welding?
@@offgrid-j5c no, actual brazing with brass rod. It’s possible to do it in the forge, I just suck at it.
Duh,,, of course!! I should have realized. Thanks! Lol
Very helpful.
Nice video as always Dan. What metal did you make your slitting punch out of?
The punch is 4140 and the drift was an old bolt with a very large shank.
Thanks for the great comment.
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks for that I do have a bit of 4140.
There's great holes and then there's EPIC holes.
I day I will learn something... Maybe. Thanks dude
Danny boy, like the silent show at the end!
Like "enough said "
Отлично, спасибо, посмотрел с удовольствием
Where do i find your etsy products(i am in canada) not having any luck finding
He has the link in the video description.
I've only ever used oval and round punches, seeing this demonstration, I kind of wonder why even bother with them? The slitting punch seemingly removes very little material and has less resistance to punching through. The ony thing I can think of right at the moment is for quite small holes where making a drift that's actually sturdy enough could perhaps be problematic.
Great video Dan! Quick question: What kind of steel did you use for the slitting punch, the drift, and the bolster plate?
The grease cooling bubbleing and smoke worrys me a bit 🤔
It's not grease, it's beeswax. Probably not great to breathe, but no worse than a beeswax candle.
@@92Pyromaniac grease is the word my man but as to whos beeswax it is am unsure.😎
Merci 👍
I dont know, I would always use chisel plates. Either mild steel or aluminium just to reduce the risk of damaging my anvil to zero.
If your damaging your anvil with hand tools I would suggest that there is an issue. I get what your saying but I don't harden any if my hot work tool. Its part of the reason I've stopped using air harding steels on the anvil.
@@danielmoss2089 ahh, okay. I only had in mind my course where I chiseled a piece half way. So I thought, every tool with a sharp edge or a point should not get in touch with the anvil
Quite correct best practice is to never hit the anvil face as it will damage the tool and possibly your anvil. Also the chisels need to brake through the hot metal in order to cut. This can't be done on a hardened face like an anvil. Ali and mild get damaged but the tougher steel of the chisel doesn't. I cut on Ali when I'm finishing of the cut. Hope that makes some sense!
Браво' брависсимо.!
I like perfect holes.
Hehe me too lol
How bout a dragon slaying tutorial? Not enough of those on RUclips.
You can just go around slaying dragons any more! There protected animals you know? I'll see what I can do.
I'd like to see more forge food. Blacksmithing related, a draw knife.
There will be more cooking really soon.
I've never seen someone weld tongs, I get impatient with upsetting, so this seems like a much better alternative. Beautiful work by the way
👍👍😎👍👍