Few other things I find useful for great finishes: - use a matte filament - print at lower temps it takes away the shine you get with filaments and gives a more matte effect - use textured bed - ironing on top - experiment with different infills on top and bottom - when designing parts make perimeters a multiple of the nozzle size so no ugly infill. - use archane setting for infills - use input shaping to remove ghosting etc
If you're taking advantage of the full capability of your machines, texture isn't no- or even low-cost. Surface detail takes a part whose print time would otherwise be flow-bound and makes it partially or fully acceleration-bound (kinematics-bound). I'm not sure if Slant passes this cost to the customer or lets less-detailed customers' orders subsidize the more-detailed ones, but in principle this should be a significant cost difference.
@@slant3d I'm not sure which part you mean, whether you object to the basic principle (which is easy to demonstrate) or are just running your printers with enough margin below capability that it doesn't affect print time significantly for you.
Another related issue is that texture adds surface area, and, without manual tweaking to compensate, this increases material usage/cost. This is because, roughly, print material usage for a part can be approximated as a large constant times surface area plus a small constant times volume. For "fuzzy skin" is makes no difference because the fuzz just distributes the material in the outer perimeters differently, leaving some micro gaps between them and the inner perimeters. But actual textured geometry does make a difference. Usually this is a *good difference* that increases your part strength, but it is a difference you pay for.
Thank you for the rundown man. Something that I found making round containers with a lid at a .3mm layer height and a tight tolerance the lid will lock in place almost
I am aware this is company know-how but is there any change you could make the part shown at 3:03 public. This seems to be such a cool benchmark test, and I agree, printing a benchy doesn't cut it
Been getting a bit more into patterns and textures on my own prints at home. Not only do they improve the look, they can help the quality a bit as well. Had some problems with large top surfaces on my prints, but I broke it up with a pattern which really helped. I probably need to tweak the speed, but tweaking the speed didn't help as much as I expected..
I might mess around with fuzzy skin later tonight, but the one issue i might run into, is using fuzzy skin on parts that need to insert into another. I would have to sand it a bit so it will lock together. It could also make gluing easier too
Ideamaker has a built in texture feature, and i use it time by time, because its way better than messing with the original mesh or model. I also heard that Cura 5.6.0 engine is prepared for texture, but nobody made a plugin to use it since.
I think thicker layers (0.33 and up) + thicker nozzle/e-width is something that needs to be actively pushed as a feature. Due to lower linear speed and better relative alignment, it can actually look better than 0.2 finish. The problem with that though is the seam, as it starts becoming more apparent. Ideally you have a corner feature that you can just push that into. Unlike injection moulded parts, the seam will never be really felt in a bad way, it will never cut into your hand or catch on your skin, it can merely be seen. Though tall fuzzy skin is great at hiding randomised perimeter starts, so there's that. And you can design the prints such that your assembled multi-print item will have perimeter ends hidden on the "inside".
In previous videos you've mentioned how adding supports in CAD instead of the slicer is a good idea. I'd like to see what that process actually looks like, either in fusion or another similar application.
Few other things I find useful for great finishes:
- use a matte filament
- print at lower temps it takes away the shine you get with filaments and gives a more matte effect
- use textured bed
- ironing on top
- experiment with different infills on top and bottom
- when designing parts make perimeters a multiple of the nozzle size so no ugly infill.
- use archane setting for infills
- use input shaping to remove ghosting etc
Doesnt printing at lower temps or using matte filament reduce layer adhesion though?
I’m embarrassed how long it took for me to realize that my infill was showing through my walls because my dimensions clashed with my nozzle size.
I love seeing all of the ways we can rethink manufacturing with 3d printing. It's ushering in a new era of production 🤖
That era is already here.
If you're taking advantage of the full capability of your machines, texture isn't no- or even low-cost. Surface detail takes a part whose print time would otherwise be flow-bound and makes it partially or fully acceleration-bound (kinematics-bound). I'm not sure if Slant passes this cost to the customer or lets less-detailed customers' orders subsidize the more-detailed ones, but in principle this should be a significant cost difference.
That is incorrect
@@slant3d I'm not sure which part you mean, whether you object to the basic principle (which is easy to demonstrate) or are just running your printers with enough margin below capability that it doesn't affect print time significantly for you.
@@daliasprints9798 He means he doesn't have a detailed rebuttal.
Another related issue is that texture adds surface area, and, without manual tweaking to compensate, this increases material usage/cost. This is because, roughly, print material usage for a part can be approximated as a large constant times surface area plus a small constant times volume.
For "fuzzy skin" is makes no difference because the fuzz just distributes the material in the outer perimeters differently, leaving some micro gaps between them and the inner perimeters. But actual textured geometry does make a difference. Usually this is a *good difference* that increases your part strength, but it is a difference you pay for.
I would expect this a minor detail compared to things like spray painting
Thank you for the rundown man. Something that I found making round containers with a lid at a .3mm layer height and a tight tolerance the lid will lock in place almost
Yes. The layer layers can serve as a velcro-like locking system
I am aware this is company know-how but is there any change you could make the part shown at 3:03 public. This seems to be such a cool benchmark test, and I agree, printing a benchy doesn't cut it
Loving this series, some great tips and ideas. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed.
Been getting a bit more into patterns and textures on my own prints at home. Not only do they improve the look, they can help the quality a bit as well. Had some problems with large top surfaces on my prints, but I broke it up with a pattern which really helped. I probably need to tweak the speed, but tweaking the speed didn't help as much as I expected..
Which patterns did you make? I'm having a bit of a muse shortage
I'd love to see how you add the more advanced textures, especially in a slicer. But also in CAD.
I might mess around with fuzzy skin later tonight, but the one issue i might run into, is using fuzzy skin on parts that need to insert into another. I would have to sand it a bit so it will lock together.
It could also make gluing easier too
Ideamaker has a built in texture feature, and i use it time by time, because its way better than messing with the original mesh or model. I also heard that Cura 5.6.0 engine is prepared for texture, but nobody made a plugin to use it since.
This was a great positive spin that has helped me, as a noob to this hobby, believe it’s possible to make money with my machine
I think thicker layers (0.33 and up) + thicker nozzle/e-width is something that needs to be actively pushed as a feature. Due to lower linear speed and better relative alignment, it can actually look better than 0.2 finish. The problem with that though is the seam, as it starts becoming more apparent. Ideally you have a corner feature that you can just push that into. Unlike injection moulded parts, the seam will never be really felt in a bad way, it will never cut into your hand or catch on your skin, it can merely be seen.
Though tall fuzzy skin is great at hiding randomised perimeter starts, so there's that. And you can design the prints such that your assembled multi-print item will have perimeter ends hidden on the "inside".
In previous videos you've mentioned how adding supports in CAD instead of the slicer is a good idea. I'd like to see what that process actually looks like, either in fusion or another similar application.
I like the surface when using PLA-CF
How do you get such good bed adhesion reliably on millions of prints?
Which bed surface are you using? And which tolerance you think is critical. 0.3 mm curviness diff for a bed is fine or 0.1 is fine.
Depends on the part
With TPU’s low coefficient of friction, does fuzzy skin really make that much of a difference?
I accidentally got fuzzy skin finish on a TPU print, and it was still relatively low friction.