I really appreciated you making this video. Thanks for saying the crank shaft nut was 15/16. Someone else said 24mm and I was bummed. I bought the plastic Christmas tree removal tool. I also used your idea of using zip ties to put the belt back on the pulley. I wish you would of shared in better detail how you just compress the electrical connecter. That part took me about 15 mins. I prayed because I didn't want to break it like I did on my ABS sensor once. I did remove the steering shaft section, which was easy and made the whole job doable for me. I was able to reach over a cross bar and barely start the back top bolt on the vacuum pump by hand. That was another hard part. After I finished I rotated my off road tires 33's. That was tiring. But is was a productive day AND YOU HAD A LOT TO DO WITH IT! THANK YOU SO MUCH, GOD BLESS YOU! Everybody that was helped type in the comments, THANK YOU!
Just finished this repair yesterday on my 2015 LTZ 4x4. A universal socket adapter, long extensions, and patience were my best friends. I spent more time trying to get the crankshaft position sensor unplugged than getting the actual pump out. I ended up just leaving the sensor plugged in anyway to prevent damaging the wires and was able to get the pump out just fine with it plugged in. The gasket on the new pump holds the new bolts steady for you when you install it which is also very very nice. Very happy with the results, no more hard brakes during low speeds. This was a great video thank you!
Awesome video. My 2014 gmc sierra was exactly like this. Did steps as described in video. Certainly saved a lot of time guessing how. Thanks for posting !
Just did this today on my 16 Sierra. This is very informative video. A few things to note though, this is a 2wd install. On a 4wd, it’s definitely more difficult. Also, be very careful with the crank position sensor plug. It’s VERY fragile, take your time. Lastly, invest in a nice power ratchet like the Milwaukee in this video, it’ll save your life because these bolts are almost impossible to get to.
My 2017 is GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 is making a winding noise sounds like a cat meowing lol could this be my vacuum pump, my brakes do seem a little hard and it takes a good time to completely stop
Guys I appreciate this video and all the comments. I've called a few times and went in a little while back for diagnostics and they came up with over an 800 dollar fix for the vacuum pump. Was told by another dealer that it was ok for now that it didnt need replaced unless I experienced the brake problems . Well now it needs replaced and now knowing it wont cost me is nice!
Just finished mine, on 2014, 4wd silverado. For the 4wd, removing the steering knuckle makes access to all 4 bolts amazingly easy! Was easily removed at that.
Just got doing mine, thanks for this video. its some tight squeezes. Also make sure you have a drip pan to catch oil from vacuum pump. I did not remove steering shaft. i imagine it would make it much easier. This video was very much appreciated and so far seems to alleviate the tough brake pedal. Thanks again!
Bro thank you! It was much easier in your video but I realized it because mine 4wd so I had less space but your video helped a ton!! Thank you you are appreciated!!!
2014 GMC Sierra July 28. GM just did mine for free. I had to ask multiple dealer until one said there’s a “special warranty cover” that would replace the vacuum pump for free. It covers either 10 years of ownership or 150,000 miles. Mine was a 2014 with 141,000 so I was close lol. Keep asking your dealer it’s a free $800+ fix.
awesome video! we were on road when our pump went out. got to dealer. There is actually a GM program to fix, however there isn't any parts available. We had to rent car, pay for 2 more days at campground, etc. They finally got parts and fixed
This is great. my pedal is actually squeaking and spongy (diagnosed by Chevy repair guys) Cost would be $600 and 1 week after warranty was out. Truck only had 13,000 miles on it. Plan to tackle this myself this summer. hopefully there's no oil in the booster. Thanks for posting the video
@@noeldiaz1359 i waited a few months to see if chevy would put out a recall on it and they did. only seems to do it in the winter time now... so i just turn up the radio.
Great video, I know the booster could have an interaction with the ABS system, and I’m curious if this condition would cause you to have the rumble strip effect or engage the antilock brake system
Really helpful video. Thanks for posting! This particular belt tool is key! I first tried another one from NAPA that was more expensive, and it didn’t work (I’m returning it.) Also, I think the truck in this video must not be a 4wd...my 2014 Sierra 4wd was tighter than this, but I was still able to do it with various wobble extensions and U joints on the ratchet handles. An electric ratchet helped a lot too. I have just over 77K miles, so no warranty/recall coverage (They’re covering this if you have less than 72K miles now as I understand it.) The dealer quoted me $800 parts and labor. I bought a new pump on Amazon, new belts (all 3) from NAPA and the stretch belt tool at Pep Boys. About $300 in parts and tools altogether. (The 3 new belts totaled as much as the new pump! Crazy.) I’m going to hit GM up to see if they’ll reimburse me for any of this. I’ll post here if I have any success.
Just did this on my 2014 4x4. A couple things - I couldn't unplug my crankshaft position sensor. It's not necessary Disconnected the upper and lower intermediate steering shafts. They were rusted/seized and it was a huge pain to pull them apart. I recommend two pairs of channelocks twisting and pulling on both sides. Completely removing the lower shaft would have been ideal but I couldn't disconnect the shaft from the steering box. Getting the new pump in was surprisingly difficult without having the gasket falling off. I pushed the two front bolts partially through the gasket to keep it in place. Laying on my back with my eyes right under where the lower front bolt on the pump goes into the engine gave me the best position to be able to guide the pump into place and hand tighten that bolt. Need lots of different sized extensions. Reconnecting the steering shafts was a huge PITA but it didn't have to be.
I have a 4x4 as well and could not unplug that sensor either. I am here looking for a video that maybe has the 4x4 so I can see how to disconnect the drive shaft
@@Apocalypse2383 All you have to do is remove the bolt that connects the upper and lower steering shaft. Once that's removed you can push the upper shaft towards the cabin which I think will give you enough to separate the shafts. I also disconnected the upper shaft under the steering wheel before I realized I probably didn't have to. Try that if you can't get them apart. If you do go that route, reconnect the portion under the steering wheel first, it's easier to get everything back together with more room under the hood as opposed to connecting the two shafts and then trying to connect under the steering wheel. EDIT: before disconnecting the steering shaft make sure to loop the seatbelt around the steering wheel to make sure it doesn't spin - could damage your clockspring if you don't. This video shows a replacement of a steering shaft: ruclips.net/video/4crx0xuIhQU/видео.html
I’m here cause my sensor clip(red) broke when I tried to unplug in juuuust to learn that other people were able to skip that step. 🤦♀️ I also have a 4x4 and appreciate the recommendation to disconnect the steering shafts. After fighting with the sensor forever I’m more than ready to make some of this easier on myself haha.
when he starts the truck in this video I can hear the identical sound my tuck is making , it is a weird low groan/whine sound, it is driving me crazy on mine it sounds like something is worn out like a bad power steering pump, I thought it was maybe this vaccum pump but I hear it still makes that noise even after he replaced it..... what is making that noise ? is that just how these trucks sound? sounds terrible.you hear it when he revs it a little too.I have a 2015 GMC Sierra with the 5.3
I keep getting service brake assist 2017 Chevy Silverado 271 4wd v8 . I’ve had problems with the brakes once when driving around ice . A lot when I back up a trailer or if I’m backing up to a lake under low speeds . Brake peddle gets hard and feels like the brakes are locking up . Would this be the cause?
@@Sweetjamesjones520 yes it was my vacuum pump . Very common in Silverado’s, they call it parking lot breaking syndrome, and it’s covered under a recall if you’re vehicles under 150k
Thanks man! Had the brake issue and was hoping the recall/reflash would do the trick. It didn't, so new pump it is. Dealer wanted 500.00 as I'm at 210k on my 15. I'll do it myself and this video helped me out!
Excellent video. I was going to make and post a video on this but yours is perfect. Thanks. Edit after finishing: 4WD is very tight. Without universals you'll have to do it blind from the top for three of the bolts. You'll definitely need different length extensions. I disconnected the steering coupling but it didn't help.
I just had the slow speed braking issue. Just bought the truck a week ago from the dealer. It was used with 63,000 miles on it. The pedal didnt get hard it was more like went to the floor and front brakes made a noise like the were just grabbing the rotor and making a creeping noise. scared the crap out of me. I was trying to park in a parking spot with other cars around. I hope the dealership will fix the issue since I paid top dollar for a 2017 Sierra Denali. I didnt get the bumper to bumper warranty only power train. Hopefully they work with me or the recall covers the work. Shouldnt have an issue with this since its only a week in possession.
What’s interesting is that the bulletin From GM states the vacuum pump is faulty (they attribute it to oil changes at incorrect intervals). The recall however states that they are only responsible for recalibrating the braking system, meaning they just plug it into a computer without replacing the part. I just took mine in for this recall and they would not replace the vacuum pump. Bummer
Just a heads up to anyone having this issue. These pumps were recalled and there is a special letter out from GM about it. A deal can inspect the issue and request for GM to pay to fix the part. GM will then approve it and replace it at no cost to you. Just had mine done. 17 silverado 1500.
thanks so much. so question , the dealer performed this on my truck as a recall. it works fine now. so is this something that i will need to replace after x amount of miles?
Hey im going to the dealer tomorrow but i dont have the recall i spoke whit a GM agent today he told that they need to inspect the vehicle and if the problem is that they will replace it and yes thats the problem if you hit the brake doble it doesn’t stop i have a 2015 Suburban! What did you told them?
i noticed you cranked the engine both directions, does that change/ damage the timing? i was told to only crank the engine clockwise for the most part. some engine turn counter clockwise but def not both ways since they are designed to turn in 1 direction only
The vaccum pump doesnt need to be timed so your fine. If your replacing the cam actuated fuel pump, then you have to make sure the cam lobe is in the proper position.
Could your vacuum pump change your shift points in your transmission I feel like this might be related. My vacuum pump just went out but three days before that I felt like the transmission shift points were different
@@blake102989 Just realized that I have this ongoing issue with my truck unfortunately. I have 106k on the dash they told me basically that I need to pay out of pocket but it was very evident that they all knew it was an issue.
@@h1ghVolTTagE damn, that's dirty. I'd call gm corporate and tell them you were never notified and didnt have any signs of it being bad until now. If they say no tell them they'll be hearing from your attorney and they just might go ahead and fix it because they dont want a lawsuit and I know a attorney could easily file suit on this issue.
@@h1ghVolTTagE I luckily caught mine when I had 70k but the only reason is because I was bored and clicked on the warranty section of the monthly diagnostic email and it said speciality warranty almost expired. It didnt say what it was, I had to google the number that was right after specialty warranty.
Great video- thank you! The scan tool reading that is shown- you refer to it as “pressure”, but it’s actually vacuum in Hg (mercury)- correct? Just for clarification. Tia!
I noticed that whine when the old pump was in, and after you replaced it and you revved it, the truck still had that whine. Any idea as to where that was coming from? My truck has the same noise and I want to fix it.
I called my local chevy dealership and even if your vehicle has no outstanding recalls for the part the vacuum pump has a special coverage. Keep in mind it all depends on your mileage. I have a 2016 5.3 with 46,XXX mi. Try and give your local dealership a call they might be able to help.
You do need to get the steering column adapter out, the top right bolt very difficult to get out, unless you are snake ratchet? I see you show easy take out but that is quite difficult with the steering column adapter piece in there.
Hey I just changed mine on my 2014 and is it normal for a little bit of oil to come out during this process? I noticed it when I took off the old pump there was a little puddle of oil under the truck not a whole lot
Why is people telling me i shouldnt be rotating the crack counter clockwise, i need to do that to install the belt, is it true i shouldn't turn it counterclockwise?
My 18 Silverado brakes are stuck. If i let it set over night it first it feels ok but then all wheels lock up very bad. As soon as i unplugged the vacuum hose at the booster brakes back to normal. Is that another cause of the vacuum pump?
Working on my 4x4 right now. I had to remove the intermediate steering shaft that he pointed to in the video in order to access the bolts from the top of the engine bay. I could not find a way to get the pump bolts from below. Just two bolts for the shaft. I marked the shaft after locking the steering wheel just in case. After it was removed it was mostly all feel as I still could not see the bolts from above even with the shaft removed but was able to get the wrench in and feel for them. Dropped the pump from below just like he did. The video was an awesome help! I would not have even dared to attempt it without watching it! Getting ready to torque and optest soon. Fingers crossed!
You stated that GM did a redesign of the Pump at around 8:20 in your video. Where can I get info on this redesigned pump? or Do you have information of the pump you put on?
i have a link in the description of this video where u can purchase the new pump. the old pump is no longer available as it is obsolete. i also have a link to a gm tsb about the pump failure in the description.
Would a bad pump cause a bank 2 lean code? I know I have a bad pump because I have braking issues when going at low speeds. Usually when I'm coming to a stop, the brake pedal gets hard around 10 mph or so. I also have a small whine, I've had these issues ever since I bought the truck 3 years ago. The braking issue never really bothered me too much. But now that the temperature outside dropped to around 20°F, I keep getting check engine lights coming on now and then. I was thinking I have bad O2 sensors or something. I'm not too mechanically inclined but I just recently replaced my CAI filter, cleaned my throttle body, and replaced my mass air flow sensor. The truck ran pretty good for about 3 days until tonight coming home from work. I got a CEL for running lean and I noticed a weird ticking sound but it's not like a lifter tick. It's more like a tick, tick tick, stops for about 3 secs then does that same rhythm. Any ideas on what it could be? Also, I have LT headers and got my truck tuned to get rid of the O2 sensor codes so it couldn't be an O2 sensor?
@@statelinespaceman I never got to the bottom of the issue because I traded it in for a 6.2 Silverado but I'm 90% sure it was the fuel injectors going bad. It could be just one or it could have been multiple injectors going bad. I was thinking the intake manifold gasket was bad and causing a vacuum leak, I had a shop check for vacuum leaks every where and they didn't find anything. I still ended up replacing the gasket and it didn't fix the issue. I replaced all the coil packs and O2 sensors, still didn't fix it. That's why I believe it may be your fuel injectors. These direct injection engines are known to have a lot of carbon buildup and eventually clog up the injectors and whatever else. Your best bet is to start replacing the least expensive parts in hopes it fixes it. I would take it to a reputable mechanic and have them check for vacuum leaks, clean and check the injectors if you're not mechanically inclined. You could clean the injectors yourself with a seafoam treatment or something similar and it might make a difference. I hope this helps!
Just had mine replaced and now my Silverado's RPMs surge 1-200 RPMs at cruising speed. Thought it might be unrelated to the pump and belt replacement but seems too coincidental. Any ideas?
Hey just wondering, dealer replace my lifters (AFM failure) after driving it back couple days I’m hearing noises could it be the vacuum pump? 2014 Chevy Silverado
Aaron Hines I posted a vid of it just now, it’s more of a popping and clicking noise, it happen after the Lifters were replaced, I read on GM forums the noise could be from the vacuum pump just wasn’t to sure.
Just had both sides of my engine repaired because of the automatic fuel management system then they replace the whole engine because it was scarred cylinders anyways got it back and now the pumps making noise crazy general motor products
Pain in the ass when it’s 4x4, I used 1/4in drive 13mm socket for the front and and removed em by hand and using a long socket twisting it. I’m just about out the new pump on. There was about a pint of motor oil coming out when I removed mine. I’m working on a 2015 suburban.
Great video! Took my 2018 Silverado in for the transmission. Their inspection discovered that my vacuum pump was bad. They’re telling me that my specific VIN isn’t one that’s covered by the recall and they quoted me $740 to replace. First off, no thanks! Second, how does this even make sense? It’s not a coincidence that mine needs replaced and there’s an active recall.
Great video, but for me it was easier to remove the driver side wheel and wheel well, and unbolt the ECM and just lay it in the battery compartment. Then i'd remove/replace the vacuum pump from the wheel well. This way you don't have to remove the skid plate, or harness or Crank Sensor or anything from below. I had issues with the centering pins staying stuck in the block, and didnt see that when working on it from below/above as shown in this video. Be sure the centering pins come out with the unit or you will have an oily mess on your driveway!
If you have a 4WD drive vehicle it’s way harder than this…. Still manageable but it’s hard! Also if you change your belt as well keep in mind all other belts coming off
Aaron Hines All the time or just sometimes? My 2018 work truck does it sometimes and has been doing it since I bought it with 19,000 miles. I have 64,000 on it now.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This video might get more popular soon...
Got popular with me just now
@@charles9571 me too -_-
Me now
Same
Popular here now.
I really appreciated you making this video. Thanks for saying the crank shaft nut was 15/16. Someone else said 24mm and I was bummed. I bought the plastic Christmas tree removal tool. I also used your idea of using zip ties to put the belt back on the pulley. I wish you would of shared in better detail how you just compress the electrical connecter. That part took me about 15 mins. I prayed because I didn't want to break it like I did on my ABS sensor once. I did remove the steering shaft section, which was easy and made the whole job doable for me.
I was able to reach over a cross bar and barely start the back top bolt on the vacuum pump by hand. That was another hard part. After I finished I rotated my off road tires 33's. That was tiring. But is was a productive day AND YOU HAD A LOT TO DO WITH IT! THANK YOU SO MUCH, GOD BLESS YOU!
Everybody that was helped type in the comments, THANK YOU!
Sane here I spent so much time om the connector and I don't know how he managed to get a tool for the back bolts, I couldn't even get a hand in there
Just finished this repair yesterday on my 2015 LTZ 4x4. A universal socket adapter, long extensions, and patience were my best friends. I spent more time trying to get the crankshaft position sensor unplugged than getting the actual pump out. I ended up just leaving the sensor plugged in anyway to prevent damaging the wires and was able to get the pump out just fine with it plugged in. The gasket on the new pump holds the new bolts steady for you when you install it which is also very very nice. Very happy with the results, no more hard brakes during low speeds. This was a great video thank you!
Awesome video. My 2014 gmc sierra was exactly like this. Did steps as described in video. Certainly saved a lot of time guessing how.
Thanks for posting !
I just finished the job yesterday. I appreciate your insight. I like the tip about using zip ties instead of a pulley tool.
Great video. This explains some issues I am having on 2014 Silverado 5.3
Just did this today on my 16 Sierra. This is very informative video. A few things to note though, this is a 2wd install. On a 4wd, it’s definitely more difficult. Also, be very careful with the crank position sensor plug. It’s VERY fragile, take your time. Lastly, invest in a nice power ratchet like the Milwaukee in this video, it’ll save your life because these bolts are almost impossible to get to.
Yeah I saw this video and thought "oh this looks nice and easy. Then I get under and realize that this is a 2wd install
Yeah I figured it out the hard way
I broke the clip on the plug. Darn thing was a pain to get to laying on the floor.
I learned this the hardware as well. Thought it would take half hour... ended being a few hours and I had to call in a flashlight holder:)
That is one of the best repair videos I have ever seen! Thanks so much!!
My 2017 is GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 is making a winding noise sounds like a cat meowing lol could this be my vacuum pump, my brakes do seem a little hard and it takes a good time to completely stop
Thanks this video made my day it was much easier after watching it I was lose for minute
Guys I appreciate this video and all the comments. I've called a few times and went in a little while back for diagnostics and they came up with over an 800 dollar fix for the vacuum pump. Was told by another dealer that it was ok for now that it didnt need replaced unless I experienced the brake problems . Well now it needs replaced and now knowing it wont cost me is nice!
Just finished mine, on 2014, 4wd silverado. For the 4wd, removing the steering knuckle makes access to all 4 bolts amazingly easy! Was easily removed at that.
yeah I did that too and used zip ties for putting the belt back on.
About 1/4 quart of oil spilled out of the vac pump when I removed the last bolt. Thank you for the great video and links!
Just got doing mine, thanks for this video. its some tight squeezes.
Also make sure you have a drip pan to catch oil from vacuum pump.
I did not remove steering shaft. i imagine it would make it much easier.
This video was very much appreciated and so far seems to alleviate the tough brake pedal.
Thanks again!
Will be doing this next on my truck just did the water pump a few months back luckily these are not hard parts to install thanks for the video.
Bro thank you! It was much easier in your video but I realized it because mine 4wd so I had less space but your video helped a ton!! Thank you you are appreciated!!!
Yeah that front diff really closes things up. In the process of doing mine right now. Those back bolts on the pump are a nightmare
@ yea man I had to have my son help me while I was on top and he was in the bottom and his 9 lol
Great job, and thanks to sharing, I ordered the pump last week my Tahoe feels hard pedal on slow speed, blessing 🙏🏼🙏🏼
2014 GMC Sierra July 28. GM just did mine for free. I had to ask multiple dealer until one said there’s a “special warranty cover” that would replace the vacuum pump for free. It covers either 10 years of ownership or 150,000 miles. Mine was a 2014 with 141,000 so I was close lol. Keep asking your dealer it’s a free $800+ fix.
awesome video! we were on road when our pump went out. got to dealer. There is actually a GM program to fix, however there isn't any parts available. We had to rent car, pay for 2 more days at campground, etc. They finally got parts and fixed
Thanks a lot, my friend. I was able to fix my wife's car. Appreciate it.
This is great. my pedal is actually squeaking and spongy (diagnosed by Chevy repair guys) Cost would be $600 and 1 week after warranty was out. Truck only had 13,000 miles on it. Plan to tackle this myself this summer. hopefully there's no oil in the booster. Thanks for posting the video
Mine is squeaking aswell did it get rid of the noise?
@@noeldiaz1359 i waited a few months to see if chevy would put out a recall on it and they did. only seems to do it in the winter time now... so i just turn up the radio.
Good video I use a zip tie to hold the belt works good if u ain’t got a belt holder tool available 😀
Good advice right here
Great video, I know the booster could have an interaction with the ABS system, and I’m curious if this condition would cause you to have the rumble strip effect or engage the antilock brake system
Really helpful video. Thanks for posting! This particular belt tool is key! I first tried another one from NAPA that was more expensive, and it didn’t work (I’m returning it.) Also, I think the truck in this video must not be a 4wd...my 2014 Sierra 4wd was tighter than this, but I was still able to do it with various wobble extensions and U joints on the ratchet handles. An electric ratchet helped a lot too. I have just over 77K miles, so no warranty/recall coverage (They’re covering this if you have less than 72K miles now as I understand it.) The dealer quoted me $800 parts and labor. I bought a new pump on Amazon, new belts (all 3) from NAPA and the stretch belt tool at Pep Boys. About $300 in parts and tools altogether. (The 3 new belts totaled as much as the new pump! Crazy.) I’m going to hit GM up to see if they’ll reimburse me for any of this. I’ll post here if I have any success.
GM wouldn’t pay for anything due to my mileage. No surprise.
They just extended the coverage on these shitty pumps
A zip tie around the belt and pulley will do the same for installation.
I believe you're right... just replaced the pump on my 4wd and there was significantly less room to work with and zero visibility.
Just did this on my 2014 4x4. A couple things -
I couldn't unplug my crankshaft position sensor. It's not necessary
Disconnected the upper and lower intermediate steering shafts. They were rusted/seized and it was a huge pain to pull them apart. I recommend two pairs of channelocks twisting and pulling on both sides. Completely removing the lower shaft would have been ideal but I couldn't disconnect the shaft from the steering box.
Getting the new pump in was surprisingly difficult without having the gasket falling off. I pushed the two front bolts partially through the gasket to keep it in place. Laying on my back with my eyes right under where the lower front bolt on the pump goes into the engine gave me the best position to be able to guide the pump into place and hand tighten that bolt.
Need lots of different sized extensions.
Reconnecting the steering shafts was a huge PITA but it didn't have to be.
I have a 4x4 as well and could not unplug that sensor either. I am here looking for a video that maybe has the 4x4 so I can see how to disconnect the drive shaft
@@Apocalypse2383 All you have to do is remove the bolt that connects the upper and lower steering shaft. Once that's removed you can push the upper shaft towards the cabin which I think will give you enough to separate the shafts. I also disconnected the upper shaft under the steering wheel before I realized I probably didn't have to. Try that if you can't get them apart. If you do go that route, reconnect the portion under the steering wheel first, it's easier to get everything back together with more room under the hood as opposed to connecting the two shafts and then trying to connect under the steering wheel. EDIT: before disconnecting the steering shaft make sure to loop the seatbelt around the steering wheel to make sure it doesn't spin - could damage your clockspring if you don't. This video shows a replacement of a steering shaft: ruclips.net/video/4crx0xuIhQU/видео.html
I’m here cause my sensor clip(red) broke when I tried to unplug in juuuust to learn that other people were able to skip that step. 🤦♀️
I also have a 4x4 and appreciate the recommendation to disconnect the steering shafts. After fighting with the sensor forever I’m more than ready to make some of this easier on myself haha.
just found this TSB N182202780 that covers this for 10 years or 150k miles. Free replacement from the dealer.
Thank you
This video saved my life as I’m about to do this install tomorrow
Glad to hear!
Nice job Aaron. Gonna get my pump replaced this week.
The best video I've ever see good job nicely put together
Thank you very much!
Seconded. This was awesome! Concise with tons of helpful info
Aaron Hines how do you replace the belt?
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Very much appreciated.
Good video man, mine just went out and I’m about to replace it and this video helps so much
Superb video and explanation! Thank you!
I’m not having issues on brakes but thank you for the info !!
when he starts the truck in this video I can hear the identical sound my tuck is making , it is a weird low groan/whine sound, it is driving me crazy on mine it sounds like something is worn out like a bad power steering pump, I thought it was maybe this vaccum pump but I hear it still makes that noise even after he replaced it..... what is making that noise ? is that just how these trucks sound? sounds terrible.you hear it when he revs it a little too.I have a 2015 GMC Sierra with the 5.3
I have it as well on a 2018.
I keep getting service brake assist 2017 Chevy Silverado 271 4wd v8 . I’ve had problems with the brakes once when driving around ice . A lot when I back up a trailer or if I’m backing up to a lake under low speeds . Brake peddle gets hard and feels like the brakes are locking up . Would this be the cause?
Definitely, did you ever get it replaced?
@@Sweetjamesjones520 yes it was my vacuum pump . Very common in Silverado’s, they call it parking lot breaking syndrome, and it’s covered under a recall if you’re vehicles under 150k
Thanks man! Had the brake issue and was hoping the recall/reflash would do the trick. It didn't, so new pump it is. Dealer wanted 500.00 as I'm at 210k on my 15. I'll do it myself and this video helped me out!
Just did this job on my 6.2 silverado ended up putting a tee fitting on mine idle surged pretty bad when i just plugged barb on intake manifold
I found on 4x4 models if you take the exhaust manifold heatshield off it gives you room to reach the back bolts from up top
I got it out. But couldn’t get it back in. So Imma try this and see if it works for me.
Excellent video. I was going to make and post a video on this but yours is perfect. Thanks.
Edit after finishing:
4WD is very tight. Without universals you'll have to do it blind from the top for three of the bolts. You'll definitely need different length extensions. I disconnected the steering coupling but it didn't help.
Very well done with great info and links!
Thank you for this awesome video! I just took my 2017 Silverado for a dealer vac. pump replacement and now know exactly what the process should be.
Saw another video but took the exhuast and head gasket..so this is easier
I just had the slow speed braking issue. Just bought the truck a week ago from the dealer. It was used with 63,000 miles on it. The pedal didnt get hard it was more like went to the floor and front brakes made a noise like the were just grabbing the rotor and making a creeping noise. scared the crap out of me. I was trying to park in a parking spot with other cars around. I hope the dealership will fix the issue since I paid top dollar for a 2017 Sierra Denali. I didnt get the bumper to bumper warranty only power train. Hopefully they work with me or the recall covers the work. Shouldnt have an issue with this since its only a week in possession.
How’d that go for you
@@winterssiege4624 dealership did the work under a service bulletin. Haven't had the braking issue since.
Does this pump could make that tik noise?
Good morning just a question after this procedure you have to do any purge on the brake system or something??
TIA
What’s interesting is that the bulletin From GM states the vacuum pump is faulty (they attribute it to oil changes at incorrect intervals). The recall however states that they are only responsible for recalibrating the braking system, meaning they just plug it into a computer without replacing the part. I just took mine in for this recall and they would not replace the vacuum pump. Bummer
Great video have a question donyou jave to bleed out air or just install the pump normal like you did in the video these it
Great video short and sweet.. Thanks
Will this pump work on a 2016 gmc sierra 1500 5.3
at 4:52 you say the connector is the crank position sensor. It is the cam position sensor & cam phaser solenoid sub harness. X154 for those who care.
Definitely came in handy today
Just a heads up to anyone having this issue. These pumps were recalled and there is a special letter out from GM about it. A deal can inspect the issue and request for GM to pay to fix the part. GM will then approve it and replace it at no cost to you. Just had mine done. 17 silverado 1500.
miles?
Thanks for the heads up! I got mine replace today under the recall! They said under 10 years old and under 150k on it.
@@jldrkszac1194 I have a 2014 Silverado and the brakes have started this symptoms, Im at 75k I’m hoping they will honor and replace
@@joelstovall1128 you should be good!
How do i get them to replace the pump with what you are saying about the inspection?
thanks so much. so question , the dealer performed this on my truck as a recall. it works fine now. so is this something that i will need to replace after x amount of miles?
Dealer just replaced my 2014 vacuum pump free under recall!
Hey im going to the dealer tomorrow but i dont have the recall i spoke whit a GM agent today he told that they need to inspect the vehicle and if the problem is that they will replace it and yes thats the problem if you hit the brake doble it doesn’t stop i have a 2015 Suburban!
What did you told them?
@@KMTZ305 took it in for motor mounts
While there dealer told me about it and checked to see if bad
So im here at the dealer now, i just explained him what was happening and he knew exactly what to do i dont have to pay anything 😀
I was wondering if I could remove the pump all together and run the booster vacuum back to the manifold. I have cancelled the DOD already
Lol and you ended up making a video with 200k plus views! Hahahaah thanks your video was what made me do mine today
When you remove the vacuum pump and you see or oil in the vacuum side could that contaminate the brake system or put the oil in with the brake fluid
Thank you. Great information and demonstration. Perfect video.
Do i have to put oil in the new pump?
i noticed you cranked the engine both directions, does that change/ damage the timing? i was told to only crank the engine clockwise for the most part. some engine turn counter clockwise but def not both ways since they are designed to turn in 1 direction only
The vaccum pump doesnt need to be timed so your fine. If your replacing the cam actuated fuel pump, then you have to make sure the cam lobe is in the proper position.
Could your vacuum pump change your shift points in your transmission I feel like this might be related. My vacuum pump just went out but three days before that I felt like the transmission shift points were different
Went to dealer it was my vacuum pump . It failed
Did it change the way it shifted?
Do you have to refill/ check engine oil at the end of the procedure?
Ty but if you have 4 wheel drive definitely a little different. Managed anyway thx for the help to get started
if this is going bad can it make a noise like a clock ticking.
Yea
You saved me a ton of time today, Im a mechanic and still wondering how you got access to those bolts so easily. It took me a while😂
It was 2wd not a 4wd. Having hell rn
@@Methoverbitches how'd it go for you with the 4x4? I'm just about to replace mine
Glenn just pull off the elbow on your steering shaft rack thingy and make sure to have some bendy sockets.
@@Methoverbitches thanks bud 👍🏻
Glad to know I'm not the only one. I tried to do this quickly last night and was so angry when I spaced I drive a 4x4 lmao
At Chevy dealership now, they saying this pump is going out on my 2017 suburban. Thank god it’s cover under GM warranty
There really needs to be a recall on these. One of the dumbest designs ever. Keep up the good work man!
Ya your not kidding! I see the fail a lot. Pretty dangerous. Thanks bud!
They gave a special warranty but it runs out at 72k miles but they do need to recall this
@@blake102989 Just realized that I have this ongoing issue with my truck unfortunately. I have 106k on the dash they told me basically that I need to pay out of pocket but it was very evident that they all knew it was an issue.
@@h1ghVolTTagE damn, that's dirty. I'd call gm corporate and tell them you were never notified and didnt have any signs of it being bad until now. If they say no tell them they'll be hearing from your attorney and they just might go ahead and fix it because they dont want a lawsuit and I know a attorney could easily file suit on this issue.
@@h1ghVolTTagE I luckily caught mine when I had 70k but the only reason is because I was bored and clicked on the warranty section of the monthly diagnostic email and it said speciality warranty almost expired. It didnt say what it was, I had to google the number that was right after specialty warranty.
Great video- thank you! The scan tool reading that is shown- you refer to it as “pressure”, but it’s actually vacuum in Hg (mercury)- correct? Just for clarification. Tia!
I noticed that whine when the old pump was in, and after you replaced it and you revved it, the truck still had that whine. Any idea as to where that was coming from? My truck has the same noise and I want to fix it.
I noticed that as well.
Does the dealer usually honor the recall even if (based on my findings on the gm website) that I have no outstanding recalls?
I would like to know as well. Mine just started doing this.
I called my local chevy dealership and even if your vehicle has no outstanding recalls for the part the vacuum pump has a special coverage. Keep in mind it all depends on your mileage. I have a 2016 5.3 with 46,XXX mi. Try and give your local dealership a call they might be able to help.
You do need to get the steering column adapter out, the top right bolt very difficult to get out, unless you are snake ratchet? I see you show easy take out but that is quite difficult with the steering column adapter piece in there.
i got this creaking sound coming from my brakes in the rear maybe. any ideas?
Hey I just changed mine on my 2014 and is it normal for a little bit of oil to come out during this process? I noticed it when I took off the old pump there was a little puddle of oil under the truck not a whole lot
Yes completely normal. These pumps are lubricated by engine oil
Having same issues with our 17 hico 5.3
at idle moving forward or reverse it very hard to stop
You are really good at this. Thank you.
Why is people telling me i shouldnt be rotating the crack counter clockwise, i need to do that to install the belt, is it true i shouldn't turn it counterclockwise?
When the pump is leak on the screws can we just change the seal?
My 18 Silverado brakes are stuck. If i let it set over night it first it feels ok but then all wheels lock up very bad. As soon as i unplugged the vacuum hose at the booster brakes back to normal. Is that another cause of the vacuum pump?
Do you figure out what was wrong with you truck
Hey, man, quick question. I replace my brake booster but my brake is still firm. Do I need to bleed my brakes? can you please help me out?
Thank you. Save me a bunch. Also it's so much tighter in there if you have 4x4.
Any chance of making a 4x4 version video of this? Very nice video btw.
unfortunately i have not done a 4x4 recently. if i do i will upload some tips and tricks
Working on my 4x4 right now. I had to remove the intermediate steering shaft that he pointed to in the video in order to access the bolts from the top of the engine bay. I could not find a way to get the pump bolts from below. Just two bolts for the shaft. I marked the shaft after locking the steering wheel just in case. After it was removed it was mostly all feel as I still could not see the bolts from above even with the shaft removed but was able to get the wrench in and feel for them. Dropped the pump from below just like he did. The video was an awesome help! I would not have even dared to attempt it without watching it! Getting ready to torque and optest soon. Fingers crossed!
You stated that GM did a redesign of the Pump at around 8:20 in your video. Where can I get info on this redesigned pump? or Do you have information of the pump you put on?
i have a link in the description of this video where u can purchase the new pump. the old pump is no longer available as it is obsolete. i also have a link to a gm tsb about the pump failure in the description.
Any programing required or is it just a straight part swap?
Can you monitor he Vacuum sensor on the OBD2 phone app?
Would a bad pump cause a bank 2 lean code? I know I have a bad pump because I have braking issues when going at low speeds. Usually when I'm coming to a stop, the brake pedal gets hard around 10 mph or so. I also have a small whine, I've had these issues ever since I bought the truck 3 years ago. The braking issue never really bothered me too much. But now that the temperature outside dropped to around 20°F, I keep getting check engine lights coming on now and then. I was thinking I have bad O2 sensors or something. I'm not too mechanically inclined but I just recently replaced my CAI filter, cleaned my throttle body, and replaced my mass air flow sensor. The truck ran pretty good for about 3 days until tonight coming home from work. I got a CEL for running lean and I noticed a weird ticking sound but it's not like a lifter tick. It's more like a tick, tick tick, stops for about 3 secs then does that same rhythm. Any ideas on what it could be? Also, I have LT headers and got my truck tuned to get rid of the O2 sensor codes so it couldn't be an O2 sensor?
what ended up being the cause? i am dealing with this identical problem
@@statelinespaceman I never got to the bottom of the issue because I traded it in for a 6.2 Silverado but I'm 90% sure it was the fuel injectors going bad. It could be just one or it could have been multiple injectors going bad. I was thinking the intake manifold gasket was bad and causing a vacuum leak, I had a shop check for vacuum leaks every where and they didn't find anything. I still ended up replacing the gasket and it didn't fix the issue. I replaced all the coil packs and O2 sensors, still didn't fix it. That's why I believe it may be your fuel injectors. These direct injection engines are known to have a lot of carbon buildup and eventually clog up the injectors and whatever else. Your best bet is to start replacing the least expensive parts in hopes it fixes it. I would take it to a reputable mechanic and have them check for vacuum leaks, clean and check the injectors if you're not mechanically inclined. You could clean the injectors yourself with a seafoam treatment or something similar and it might make a difference. I hope this helps!
i need this dealer fighting me on warrenty, cant find your "list' down below to find the parts ?
Just had mine replaced and now my Silverado's RPMs surge 1-200 RPMs at cruising speed. Thought it might be unrelated to the pump and belt replacement but seems too coincidental. Any ideas?
What ended up being the issue for you?
Torque Converter was going bad. Wasn't locking up. Replaced under warranty and all good!
Did it feel like your ABS was engaging when reversing at low speeds?
Yes of course thats what's happening to mine
loved the ending comments. great video thanks . Bed wetting liptarts lol
Hey just wondering, dealer replace my lifters (AFM failure) after driving it back couple days I’m hearing noises could it be the vacuum pump?
2014 Chevy Silverado
Yes it could be. Describe these noises?
Aaron Hines I posted a vid of it just now, it’s more of a popping and clicking noise, it happen after the Lifters were replaced, I read on GM forums the noise could be from the vacuum pump just wasn’t to sure.
Just had both sides of my engine repaired because of the automatic fuel management system then they replace the whole engine because it was scarred cylinders anyways got it back and now the pumps making noise crazy general motor products
I got a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 and there’s something wrong with the breaks , could this be the same problem ?
Pain in the ass when it’s 4x4, I used 1/4in drive 13mm socket for the front and and removed em by hand and using a long socket twisting it. I’m just about out the new pump on. There was about a pint of motor oil coming out when I removed mine. I’m working on a 2015 suburban.
Can you turn the crankshaft any way or u have to be careful will missed up the timing ?
Make sure to pop that timing cover off, release that tensioner and then turn crank shaft counter clockwise
Great video! Took my 2018 Silverado in for the transmission. Their inspection discovered that my vacuum pump was bad. They’re telling me that my specific VIN isn’t one that’s covered by the recall and they quoted me $740 to replace. First off, no thanks! Second, how does this even make sense? It’s not a coincidence that mine needs replaced and there’s an active recall.
That’s lame. I do know that GM redesigned the pump. So they should at least expand the recall to cover mode years
Ramon Trujillo Did the bad pump make a whining noise?
Is this the same pump replacement for a 2015 Silverado 1500 4.3L V6?
Obviously you didn't watch the video
@@docholiday9786
0.20
@@RLP-r3j yes sir
Thank you so much. Excellent video.
Great video, but for me it was easier to remove the driver side wheel and wheel well, and unbolt the ECM and just lay it in the battery compartment. Then i'd remove/replace the vacuum pump from the wheel well. This way you don't have to remove the skid plate, or harness or Crank Sensor or anything from below. I had issues with the centering pins staying stuck in the block, and didnt see that when working on it from below/above as shown in this video. Be sure the centering pins come out with the unit or you will have an oily mess on your driveway!
Awesome info and video. Thank you
If you have a 4WD drive vehicle it’s way harder than this…. Still manageable but it’s hard! Also if you change your belt as well keep in mind all other belts coming off
thanks captain obvious 🙄
Fantastic video, are there services readily available to the public to monitor and diagnose values like the vacuum numbers you showed?
Did the bad pump make a whine noise like a power steering pump?
Yes it did.
Aaron Hines All the time or just sometimes? My 2018 work truck does it sometimes and has been doing it since I bought it with 19,000 miles. I have 64,000 on it now.
I just got a letter from Chevrolet. They are extending the warranty on some of these pumps.
we have been receiving a few letters as well over the past week. but only on a few trucks and not all. strange
Aaron Hines Do you know which trucks? We have not received any letter as of yet.
I never got a letter but I got the warranty and didnt know about it until I was 2k miles under the end luckily I caught it and got it fixed