You have the right idea using pulleys to get a mechanical advantage. your first mistake was cutting the trees, you lost your greatest mechanical advantage when you cut them, I pulled 100 foot pine trees with my 64 to 1 tackle , but I grabbed the tree 50 feet up, dug a pit down the back side, and placed a Lincoln log wall on the front side so the weight of the tree heaves the last of the roots out. Knock all of the dirt from the roots to fill the hole completely as the land that was flat before the tree grew. I measured the tap root on one pine, it reached 17 feet down.
I have a bunch of 80-100’ pines I’m going to need to get out of here. If you pull the trees down doesn’t it ruin your rope by the tree falling on it? I may have to try that method. I’ve seen people chain a tractor tire around the base and pull it over to pop the roots out as well. Since this is in my yard, I’m trying to do as little damage as possible.
@@brainhomestead6 for 100' pine roots you will have a pattern similar to a corn stock root , first just below the ground there is a bunch of roots growing out radially , then about 2' lower there will be the same thing , after that you will find 5 or 7 tap roots tapering to a point 15 to 20 feet below the surface . As for damaging your nylon rope , I used steel wire rope so no problem there . another thing , keep your pulley bushings greased , I learned the hard way .
@@richardsmith6317 I appreciate all of your information! I have a bunch of pine to clear where my shop is going. I use the dyneema rope, no nylon rope. One of my videos everything was squealing really badly because I forgot to grease two of my snatch blocks, but everything in video #4 was nice and quiet.
Did the chain it self stretch? I've noticed the ends that are available lately do not match the grade chain. Also throw a blanket or sweatshirt over the lines, syn rope doesn't whip too bad but tree saver fail can launch a block .. Like the double anchor/ easy reset puller idea
Yeah, the chain was stretching. Since I switched to tree saver, it pulls tight much quicker since there’s less stretching. Neither of the ends actually broke on my chain, it broke the link that I had cross-loaded. I’ve had a lot of people tell me I should be using a damping blanket of some type, so I’m going to have to start incorporating that as well.
@@brainhomestead6 anything will work, doesn't have to be cloth. I've found that sinple D-ring 'shackle" hanging mid way, draping chain over also works,. Whenever I have multiple block sets I've found using a second catch chain or strap between the anchor and block help keep it organized when it comes apart.. Having a good sharp axe to deal with roots under tension can make things go easier, saws and stump removal dont really go together well
@@christianecroy7400 I noticed about the saw. I did another pull today on a smaller stump and I still didn’t use a damping weight, but I’ll definitely have to for the next one.
@@dale5898 in my video #6 I had my 70’ish year old step dad out there helping me and going through it with him. I like doing this stuff and explaining the theory behind it as I’m doing it. I appreciate you watching!
Been waiting for your upload all week :) Did the chain break at the link that was connected (cross loaded) to the snatch block? Maybe thats why it broke at such low force. I would look for a bigger chain with an eyelet at the end so you have to crossload anything. Saw one giant chain Ebay selling for only 25bucks today, but then reminded myself that I already have more chains that stumps 😅 And welcome to germany, what area are you visiting are you visiting ?
Yeah, that’s the link it broke on. I’m debating between getting 1/2” chain and just using more tree saver straps as extensions. I fly into Frankfurt, then drive 2.5 hours south to a little town in the middle of the Black Forest.
@@yaykruser I haven’t heard about them, but I’ll ask my company if there’s anything I need to know before going there. I think I will go the tree saver option because they’re way cheaper than chains.
Mine was about that. It's a little hard but it has a brake on one wheel so you can pivet it on that. It only take like 10mins for a tree that size Through plus getting it to where you need it. And so on. I tried this approach to but it took to long and sometimes something just snapped. Or there wasn't a good Anker point
@@raunefare I got you. The problem I had with grinding is the remaining roots turned into a termite playground and when the roots eventually rotted and collapsed, the ground did too so I have a bunch of craters in the yard.
I use a 3/8” synthetic rope, but it’s off-brand. It has a minimum break strength of over 23,000 lbs though and I’ve pulled a bunch of stumps without any rope problems.
I appreciate the compliment! The tractor leaves deep ruts in the lawn and tears it up pretty bad. Car is much better. I have something like 50 stumps to pull and after the first 10, I’ll be out of the lawn and onto the back of the property so I can exclusively use the tractor there.
@@brainhomestead6 3/8 is gonna hold a whole heap of weight(like 7k), and is lighter to use. and manuever, especially if you have some length on it. Just a thought. Good Luck
@@charleslynch908 thanks, I think I will still need to use chain sometimes, so I’ll go find some 3/8” grade 70 chain. I think most of my trees have been taking 20k-30k lbs of force so far.
Игры![#3 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Block Pulleys and 42:1 Mechanical Advantage [4K 60FPS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/55YaG-mCVr4/mqdefault.jpg)
![#3 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Block Pulleys and 42:1 Mechanical Advantage [4K 60FPS]](/img/tr.png)
![#7 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Blocks By Hand! 50:1 Mechanical Advantage Needed [4K 60FPS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GYnrVLIxAy0/mqdefault.jpg)
You have the right idea using pulleys to get a mechanical advantage. your first mistake was cutting the trees, you lost your greatest mechanical advantage when you cut them, I pulled 100 foot pine trees with my 64 to 1 tackle , but I grabbed the tree 50 feet up, dug a pit down the back side, and placed a Lincoln log wall on the front side so the weight of the tree heaves the last of the roots out. Knock all of the dirt from the roots to fill the hole completely as the land that was flat before the tree grew. I measured the tap root on one pine, it reached 17 feet down.
I have a bunch of 80-100’ pines I’m going to need to get out of here. If you pull the trees down doesn’t it ruin your rope by the tree falling on it? I may have to try that method. I’ve seen people chain a tractor tire around the base and pull it over to pop the roots out as well. Since this is in my yard, I’m trying to do as little damage as possible.
@@brainhomestead6 for 100' pine roots you will have a pattern similar to a corn stock root , first just below the ground there is a bunch of roots growing out radially , then about 2' lower there will be the same thing , after that you will find 5 or 7 tap roots tapering to a point 15 to 20 feet below the surface . As for damaging your nylon rope , I used steel wire rope so no problem there . another thing , keep your pulley bushings greased , I learned the hard way .
@@richardsmith6317 I appreciate all of your information! I have a bunch of pine to clear where my shop is going. I use the dyneema rope, no nylon rope. One of my videos everything was squealing really badly because I forgot to grease two of my snatch blocks, but everything in video #4 was nice and quiet.
Did the chain it self stretch? I've noticed the ends that are available lately do not match the grade chain. Also throw a blanket or sweatshirt over the lines, syn rope doesn't whip too bad but tree saver fail can launch a block .. Like the double anchor/ easy reset puller idea
Yeah, the chain was stretching. Since I switched to tree saver, it pulls tight much quicker since there’s less stretching. Neither of the ends actually broke on my chain, it broke the link that I had cross-loaded. I’ve had a lot of people tell me I should be using a damping blanket of some type, so I’m going to have to start incorporating that as well.
@@brainhomestead6 anything will work, doesn't have to be cloth. I've found that sinple D-ring 'shackle" hanging mid way, draping chain over also works,. Whenever I have multiple block sets I've found using a second catch chain or strap between the anchor and block help keep it organized when it comes apart.. Having a good sharp axe to deal with roots under tension can make things go easier, saws and stump removal dont really go together well
@@christianecroy7400 I noticed about the saw. I did another pull today on a smaller stump and I still didn’t use a damping weight, but I’ll definitely have to for the next one.
looking forward to see the with the new chain 😁 I have a 5:1 system
I think I’m going to start 42:1 next time, then 21:1. Otherwise 25:1.
Hopefully I’ll get a chance tomorrow before rain starts here.
Pythagoras ??? It was Archimedes for sure!!!
One of my mentors for sure!
I like your channel. It challenges my almost 70 year old brain.
@@dale5898 in my video #6 I had my 70’ish year old step dad out there helping me and going through it with him. I like doing this stuff and explaining the theory behind it as I’m doing it. I appreciate you watching!
Been waiting for your upload all week :)
Did the chain break at the link that was connected (cross loaded) to the snatch block?
Maybe thats why it broke at such low force.
I would look for a bigger chain with an eyelet at the end so you have to crossload anything.
Saw one giant chain Ebay selling for only 25bucks today, but then reminded myself that I already have more chains that stumps 😅
And welcome to germany, what area are you visiting are you visiting ?
Yeah, that’s the link it broke on. I’m debating between getting 1/2” chain and just using more tree saver straps as extensions.
I fly into Frankfurt, then drive 2.5 hours south to a little town in the middle of the Black Forest.
@@brainhomestead6 Yeah, that would be another option.👍
Have fun and be aware of those airport stikes in germany.
@@yaykruser I haven’t heard about them, but I’ll ask my company if there’s anything I need to know before going there.
I think I will go the tree saver option because they’re way cheaper than chains.
You can get a 1/2 inch chain 20 feet long, grade 70 for $99 at Harbor Freight. It has a 11,300 lbs working load limit. That should get the job done.
Awesome, thank you Sparkles!
I will try to get over there this weekend. There’s one in Marietta, GA I can get to.
All that gear is probably more than my small root grinder 😅 but playing with pulley's is fun to
Altogether everything cost $1000. I tried grinding some a few years ago and I’m paying the price now.
Mine was about that. It's a little hard but it has a brake on one wheel so you can pivet it on that. It only take like 10mins for a tree that size Through plus getting it to where you need it. And so on. I tried this approach to but it took to long and sometimes something just snapped. Or there wasn't a good Anker point
@@raunefare I got you. The problem I had with grinding is the remaining roots turned into a termite playground and when the roots eventually rotted and collapsed, the ground did too so I have a bunch of craters in the yard.
Why not a super genius.
Woah woah woah, let’s not get carried away here!
Ugh that sucks! 😢 wish it didn’t break
It happens. It tells me where the weak point in the system is so I can address it!
What rope were you using?
I use a 3/8” synthetic rope, but it’s off-brand. It has a minimum break strength of over 23,000 lbs though and I’ve pulled a bunch of stumps without any rope problems.
Trailer balls have been known to snap off so be careful using that as a pulling point, just an fyi
I appreciate it. I never even thought about that. When I was at 42:1, I was pulling at basically idle. I just ran out of room.
Not sure who this Nick guy is but he is pretty f*ckin cool
LOL, I heard the same thing!
I think what you're doing is awful neat. And I like watching it but I don't understand why you just don't use your tractor all the time too pull
I appreciate the compliment! The tractor leaves deep ruts in the lawn and tears it up pretty bad. Car is much better. I have something like 50 stumps to pull and after the first 10, I’ll be out of the lawn and onto the back of the property so I can exclusively use the tractor there.
You're gonna' need a bigger boat.
LOL, I already got something for it. I’m getting back from Germany today, so hopefully I’ll be able to give it another shot this weekend!
get a better grade chain, you dont need to go up in size. Thats like a grade 40, get a grade 70 or better
The problem is finding a grade 70, I can’t find any big enough. I switched to tow straps for video #3 and they worked better than chain.
@@brainhomestead6 try tractor supply, they carry grade 70
@@charleslynch908 I tried them, but they only had grade 70 3/8” chain, I was wanting to go to 7/16” or even 1/2”.
@@brainhomestead6 3/8 is gonna hold a whole heap of weight(like 7k), and is lighter to use. and manuever, especially if you have some length on it. Just a thought. Good Luck
@@charleslynch908 thanks, I think I will still need to use chain sometimes, so I’ll go find some 3/8” grade 70 chain. I think most of my trees have been taking 20k-30k lbs of force so far.