Definitely worth our time to watch. Your video production is spot on in my book. Quick shots of the various operations is very helpful. The best part is you spent an appropriate amount of time showing the details required to setup each of those operations. I find studying how others approach their setups the most useful part of machining videos. On that note, I think you are the first YT'er I've seen actually showing a very practical use a planer gage. 👍👍 Well done 👍👍
Thank you so much! Your comment will keep me pumped up all weekend, haha. Seriously though, I can't even tell you how much I appreciate it, it means a lot to hear that!
Thank you so much! And yeah, it's an emotional roller coaster haha. I honestly never imagined. I am humbled, elated, and incredibly grateful. It motivates me though, and I will work even harder to try and repay the support that you guys have showed. This is a team effort as far as I can see, and so far from where I'm sitting, we are forming one heck of an awesome team here. So thank you!
I saw that! Thank you SO much! I have actually been a member for about a year. I wanted to comment and say thank you for sharing my video on the forum post, however I wanted to change my user name to match my channel name before I did so and I couldn't find any way to change my user name in my profile settings.
impecable hermano me gusto gracias a tu ayuda o pondré en proceso sin estudio ni conocimiento , 3años en el torno me hizo entender que a la maquina se le respeta saludos desde Perú
Thank you so much! I have been subbed to your channel for quite a while, it's an honor to get this comment from you! Your restorations are TOP TIER btw, the best I've seen.
Great project, really pro video composition and editing. Smart voice over, accurate and to the point. All round for a small channel you are 👍🏅 so I subbed. 🛎🙂
Machinist here. On that bearing journal I would leave a small radius in that corner. Doesn't have to be much but I would at least go like .03-.04. A sharp corner like that creates an easy place to break. The bearing should not have a problem sitting flat against that shoulder because bearings have radiused corners on the ID. One other tip. When you flipped is around and dialed it in the 4 jaw you probably were not running straight front to back. Don't know how good it needs to run but usually you would hold on to the ass end of the part and turn it all the way back so when you turn it around you have two places to dial too.
Just stumbled on this channel. There seems to be a lot of potential here. This style of editing reminds me of ThisOldTony's channel. Keep this up and you will have great success.
Thank you for the sub! And thank you for the feedback! This is my first experiment with music, but I will definitely work on getting better at using it and use it more frequently!
Yeah I have been incredibly fortunate with the kindness and support that I've received for the channel. The hobby folks are really the best group of people on the internet, hands down. It has been humbling, and inspiring. I am filled with gratitude. And thank you so much! I'm just winging it lol. But there is a lot of work that goes into these vids so it's really encouraging when I get such kind comments. Thank you. :)
Делаешь черновую обработку с двух сторон, оцентровав при этом деталь. Затем в шпиндель центр ставишь, через хомут крепеж детали. Чистовую без всяких 4х кулачковых патронов делаешь. Несмотря даже на разбег центра.
Yeah, it's good stuff. Gives a great finish off HSS, and it's stable after machining so makes a good choice for things like feed screws that need to accurate but don't need to be hardened.
Thank you! And yes in fact. First, the important features, the shaft where the handle connects and the thread, both end up concentric with the bearing surface in the way that I did it, so it wasn't strictly necessary to turn between centers. Second, I was turning a course acme thread with a carbide insert, so tool pressure was high. The part is far more likely to slip in a drive dog with only the single point of contact of a bolt head on a copper pad or something holding it secure. And third, I can dial in a 4 jaw chuck in about 30 seconds, maybe less. It's much faster than setting up between centers. Add all that together, and the decision wasn't a hard one. Maybe should have mentioned the rationale in the vid. Thanks again!
Tailstocks, are adjustable. I aligned it before starting. Then, and I know this is gonna sound crazy, but just hear me out. Then, I monitored for taper during the machining process.
They are TNMC inserts. NT are the ones for acme threads and NV are for 60* standard V threads. mine specifically are size 43 so they are TNMC 43 NT 8P for this specific thread. Good luck on your project btw, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool do you have some reasoning for it or is it just a habit thing? I’ve developed some weird machinist quirks for certain stuff, sure we all have.
@@jayhammersley9534 Yeah it's just because I can take much much lighter passes with the sharp HSS. For example, with a sharp piece of HSS I can dial in a .0005 cut using my top slide at 30 degrees, (sin(30)=.5 so a .001 tick on the scale with it set at 30 degrees advances .0005 towards work) and the sharp HSS tool will still take a nice cut at that small DOC. This lets you really sneak up on a critical dimension and really takes a lot of stress out of the process as you're much less likely to blow right past your mark. You can't take a cut that small using an insert. I actually learned that trick from a book but I can't remember the name offhand.
@@hersch_tool ah fair enough mate, nice bit of knowledge I’m sure I’ll use it eventually, I’ve not had too much of a hard time hitting double digit micron tolerances yet, but I’m sure that’s just luck of the draw with machinery. Cheers
@@jayhammersley9534 Lol, there's also a strong possibility that I'm just paranoid, and also I can't figure out how to make good insert selections for the task and material at hand to save my life. So I often fall back on HSS... Some day I'll get some inserts and tool holders that didn't come from a random box at an auction and actually learn how to use the stuff more effectively.
I didn't machine the nut for this project, only the screw. However, if I were to make a nut this size in bronze, I would likely prefer to just use a tap. Something like this: tinyurl.com/acme-tap As for the acme insert, they are Tool Flo TNMC 43NT-8 inserts: tinyurl.com/acme-insert I don't have a link to the exact tool holder, but it's this style: tinyurl.com/tool-holder
What was the source for the Acme cutter? Thanks. Merry Xmas. I hope you keep the channel with manual equipment and skip the high priced CNC tools. As a home machinist wannabe and woodworker even the 1500sq ft of shop is not enough for every tool under the sun, even had I the money to purchase them. Where I live there is no reasonable used tool market so whatever I need has to be at full price. Shipping alone runs about a buck a pound, so I am confined to basics and that is the type of machining I like to view. You have a good channel going. I subscribed after the first viewing a few months back.
Thanks very much for the kind words of encouragement. I will keep working hard at the channel and I really appreciate the sub. And I definitely won't be leaving behind the manual machining, ever. The old manual machines are what get my blood pumping, that's where I really enjoy myself. I just don't get the same "feeling" when I look at a fancy CNC machine that I get when I see a beautiful old manual machine. Though I might explore some CNC in the future, maybe a small lathe or mill conversion or something. But it will never replace the manual machines for me, and the channel is primarily about my love for manual machines and machining. So that's not going anywhere. :) And the acme insert came from eBay, I can't afford to buy good inserts from the retailers lol. They are 43 NT - 8P inserts. The 8P denotes whatever pitch thread they cut, so 8P for 8 pitch, 10P, 6P, etc. Thanks again for the sub, and thank you for watching!
Dude, i literally just watched 2 of your videos, this one and the collet adapter... When i was watching this, i subbed, and the sub count was like 878 or something like that... Now im writing this comment, and as im writing, the sub count was 919, then it jumped to 920... Nice fucking going mate... If im not wholly mad or my browser is shitting me, you just netted like 40 subs in the span of half an hour... I gotta say, that is a good job, better than that surface finish on the collet adapter, that`s for sure :P
Ahahaha! Yeah I was on the struggle bus with that finish... 😂 But hey, can't win em all right? And thanks very much! It's surreal. I can't even believe the support that I'm getting. I'm on cloud 9 and feeling constantly grateful. It's a good feeling. 😁
@@hersch_tool Glad for ya man, its great when you finally start getting viewers... Anyone who makes content, at lest worthwhile content, is making it because they want people to either learn or enjoy or both, in whatever form or capacity, so having 0 views sucks ass like a lollipop... Speaking of finish, that was mostly a wrong tool selection... You said a sharp hss round, but that round seems to have some geometry impairments... Those gouges are both a result of lack of lubrication for the cut, and the tool geometry... From where im sitting, at least... I would even mostly blame the lack of lubrication for it, as the gouges seem more like galling due to chip getting stuck and smeared along the surface, tearing its way around the part whenever one got caught... I know that round profile cutter have that tendency increased as when compared to a sharp point cutters, which leave their own marks, but a large round nose has the large surface where its not really cutting, yet is so damn close to the work that any little chip that tries to sneak through there is bound to get caught and dick up the finish... I kinda prefer parting tools for that use... You grind and lap a hssco10% parting blade into a razor, as flat along the edge as possible and use it like a shear tool on the shaper... It is in full contact with the surface all the way, it leaves ridiculously good finishes, and other than doc limitations, which for finishing passes isnt a concern, its just the perfect tool... Sure, it has a lot of tool-pressure, being a large engagement surface cutter, even when sharp as allowable to do its job, but other than that, i advise it highly... Just give the corners a bit of a radius so they dont shatter due to lateral feed... Tho, you could just aswell diamond grind and lap a carbide parting blade into a finishing tool... carbide doesnt have to be blunt to work... for already smooth surface with minimal doc and smooth slow feed and high speed, a sharp parting carbide tool will last a good while if lapped to 1 micron or less... The better the surface finish of the cutter, the better the surface finish of the part, and the longer the cutter will sustain its edge... Not sharper, but better surface finish, even if you radius the edge a bit, as long as the surface finish of the cutter is sublime, its going to impart a sublime finish onto the part... All the best! P.s. additional 50 subs since i posted the original comment... damn dude!
@@camillosteuss Thanks brother. It is very nice. And yeah I think you're probably right about that tool. I've used it on some other materials with success, but your comments make a lot of sense. I'm learning every day, just having fun, sharing my experiences, and trying to get a little bit better with every project. I really do enjoy it, it's a great feeling being able to turn something in your head into a real "thing" in the world. I really appreciate these kinds of comments. One of the big goals I wanted out of this channel was to be able to learn from others, and for other like minded folks to be able to converse, learn, and have some fun together. So thank you. Thank you for your support, and thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Hope to keep seeing you around!
@@hersch_tool Preach brother, im the same essentially... A dude who fell in love with machinery and have been learning for last around 15 years with unrelenting dedication, even tho i had no hope for the first 10 years of getting a single machine... Now i have a machine swamp, with most machines being in disarray and need of repair, but i made a started uploading my stuff, as i would not be where i am without amazing people like Robin Renz, Stefan, AvE, Prezzo and the likes... Nor would i know how to tig weld, nor would i get a tig welder in the first place... Sure, i studied from manuals and books and other literature, but the initial exposure was due to their online works, and i want to either help those who share the passion, or just post content interesting to those who already know more than i do... Oh, and you will see me around... I just discovered your channel... But i am kinda like the black mould... If i like the place, you aint getting rid of me that easily... :P All the best and kindest regards! Steuss
lol, i made the same mistake assuming i had a 406 key seat cutter when i turned the replacement cross slide leadscrew for my lathe. Funny:) I used 12L14 for the material on mine though. 1144 is also great, both great choices.
As far as I know, 1.1144 steel should be case hardened for parts like this lead screw. But then finish the part with the fit only after hardening. It won't last long in soft condition. I would also have turned the part completely between centers. Then all parts run and I do not have to align long with the dial gauge. In addition, I do not understand why the carriage is set at an angle when thread cutting. This is only done sometimes with saw threads with a straight flank to get a nice surface on it. For the finishing of the fit you also need no HSS lathe knife but you simply take a corresponding insert with a slightly larger tip radius.
It is going in a proper bearing so no wear there. The thread will most likely be into a bronze nut with oil etc so for light duty use probably it does not need hardening. Its a big difference between light duty hobby use, thread turned by hand, and full industrial factory use where it might run 24 hours a day and even be motor driven.
@@wizrom3046 Then I would have at least taken another steel where smoother surfaces are easier to achieve. These steels that have sulfur for easier machinability are not really ideal. The surfaces are never really smooth with them. On the thread flanks that would be quite good for a low wear in the spindle nut.
@@peterpan7903 ... thanks for the information. Yes maybe the steel is not perfect, but for a tailstock feed screw? With normal hobby use will probably have no significant wear in 10 years time. Sometimes "the steel you have" is the right stuff if you know what I mean. 🙂
Değerli ustam böyle parçaları 2 punta arasında işlemelisin pafta ile çektiğin diş olmamış diş salgılı olmuş diş çekerken soğutma sıvısı kullan ayrıca arabadaki volanda taksimat cetveli yokmu pergelle işaretleme yapıyorsun,saygılarımla.
I thought one wasn't supposed to 'sneak up on dimensions' and rather use the 'half the final distance' method?! _One turns the diameter down with two cut depths left (say 2x 0.500mm), measures the diameter, takes a defined cut (say 0.500mm), measures again and can now EXACTLY dial in how much has to be cut taking into account what the first 0.500mm depth cut has caused in diameter reduction. This method gets one reliably within +/-0.002mm._
Honestly, I'm not exactly sure what you're getting at. You're pretty much just describing the act of turning. But .002mm is around 7 millionths of an inch, which is outside of the ability of common measuring tools, and isn't something that you'd even be attempting to achieve reliably on a lathe with a shearing tool. You would likely be grinding, or using edm for that, and measuring in a controlled environment with specialized tools. (If those tolerances mattered) Interesting question though, thanks, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool the bog standard digital micrometers show 0.001 mm as smallest increment. Linear scales with 0.001 mm resolution also are off the shelf available. So we can measure this (on the spot, relatively, not absolute) reliably even in the hobby shop. As for what I described - is different than 'sneaking up on a dimension' by keeping the cutting parameters similar and thus the reaction of the tool and part to the cut. 'Sneaking up' IMHO means trying to shave off ever less to arrive at a desired dimension which does not work for insert tools..
@@joansparky4439 Yeah, that's true, my scales can technically go out that far actually, but I definitely don't trust them past a couple of ten thousandths/in. I only have one metric mic and it's in tenths of a mm, but I believe you that digitals can go out to the hundredths place. And I'm not trying to be a smarta$$ or argue with you or anything. Still though, to hit those kinds of tolerances in any kind of reliable fashion you'd want to start taking things like temperature into account, like at what temp would you like it to be within a few millionths of a specific dimension. (This is why steel gauge blocks tell you at what ambient temperature they are reliable) And I'd definitely want to use a different machining technique over a shearing tool if I'm trying to get better than a ten thousandth of an inch. All of that said, I recommend using whatever techniques work for you to hit whatever tolerances are necessary for your project.
@@hersch_tool no worries, I like a nice discussion / argument if it's logical ;-) Initially I was just posting because I've been taught and seen others do it the way I described and what that reliably results in as it seemed important to u to hit those dimensions. Otherwise - keep up the good work.
Nicely made. Extra points for using a hermaphrodite divider to scribe lines on the rotating work instead of wearing the nibs on your caliper. A note of caution. Never, never touch rotating work with your hands. It is a very dangerous habit. You'll get away with doing that 999 times, but then it'll be a trip to the ER to get your fingers stitched up. Threads especially can have burrs like a razor blade and are invisible when the work is rotating. Turned surfaces can get you too. Rotating, the work may look perfectly smooth but in fact is about like a wood rasp. And never, never, never put your hand or fingers into rotating work to polish or deburr. My wife is a retired ER nurse and she can explain to you in gruesome detail what can happen. Chop sticks make excellent tools to hold abrasive paper to polish and deburr work as well as catching work being parted off. Looking forward to more of your videos. Cheers from NC/USA
As to your favorability, I suggest you to show your face, because for every highly prefered channel I observed that guys show their faces and also add a cute pet for attraction. One more thing, Shooting from a larger room is much more appealing (eg, cee Australia)
Looks like you know what your doing. As for the weird hands thing. It's super annoying. Who does that? I'll subscribe if you stop the wierd puppet show.
I hate when people try to be like other machinist youtubers. Why not just be original, be yourself? Otherwise your just a schmuck trying to act like someone else. I mean if you at least had some knowledge of the trade you might pull it off, but it’s obvious here...
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice machining and nice video! I'm envious of your chips at 2:10 😆
Thank you so much! Your work and your channel are A-MAZ-ING!!!
Definitely worth our time to watch. Your video production is spot on in my book. Quick shots of the various operations is very helpful. The best part is you spent an appropriate amount of time showing the details required to setup each of those operations. I find studying how others approach their setups the most useful part of machining videos. On that note, I think you are the first YT'er I've seen actually showing a very practical use a planer gage. 👍👍 Well done 👍👍
Thank you so much! Your comment will keep me pumped up all weekend, haha. Seriously though, I can't even tell you how much I appreciate it, it means a lot to hear that!
Just found your channel and I’m amazed it’s not bigger! Seems like a great combo of blond hacks and TOT! Thanks
Thank you! Those 2 are pretty much responsible for me getting into machining in the first place, so that's a HUGE compliment! Thanks!
Oh man, keep up the great work! This has the makings of a great machining channel.
Thank you so much!
Gotta love that Stress Proof. Tool steel is a whole different animal.
100%
Nice work! I enjoy the theatrics and the tool tips.
Thanks very much! And thank you for watching :)
its always a pleasure to watch your work....like! 😀 you are getting better and better!!! 🤟
Thank you so much!
Now there's over 1200 of us and I'm sure you'll definitely keep growing. Great work.
Thank you so much! And yeah, it's an emotional roller coaster haha. I honestly never imagined. I am humbled, elated, and incredibly grateful. It motivates me though, and I will work even harder to try and repay the support that you guys have showed. This is a team effort as far as I can see, and so far from where I'm sitting, we are forming one heck of an awesome team here. So thank you!
You have upped your video editing skills and the choice of music - spot on! Very enjoyable (and yep I was an early subscriber) Love your content!
Haha, thank you! I'm working hard on getting better. And thank you for sticking with me! The first couple vids are even hard for me to watch.. lol
Your content is top quality, keep up the awesome work
Thank you so much! I'll keep working hard at it, and thank you for watching!
Nice job, you deserve 500 K subscribers
Woah! You’re too kind! Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words. And thank you for watching!
So nice rumba to the thread cutting! 👍
😎
Better get crackin' on more episodes. I think this will be a good channel to watch.
Haha thank you! I'm working as fast as I can! 😉
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
I saw that! Thank you SO much! I have actually been a member for about a year. I wanted to comment and say thank you for sharing my video on the forum post, however I wanted to change my user name to match my channel name before I did so and I couldn't find any way to change my user name in my profile settings.
That may be the first time I've seen someone on RUclips using an actual thread file.
I'm amazed with your knowledge and style. Keep up your good work! :)
Thank you so much! Comments like this keep me motivated and working hard on the next vid! Thanks again and hope to see you around!
400 to 1.8k in 3 weeks good job dude! This old tony better watch out!
Thank you!
You've earned it!! 😊👍
Thank you! ♥️
New sub here. Thanks for the full length video. I don’t care for the shorts and irritating music but your general content is very educational.
Thanks very much!
impecable hermano me gusto gracias a tu ayuda o pondré en proceso sin estudio ni conocimiento , 3años en el torno me hizo entender que a la maquina se le respeta saludos desde Perú
¡Gracias hermano! ¡Gracias por mirar y saludos desde los Estados Unidos!
I liked it hope to see more video from you!
Thank you very much!
Just stumbled onto your channel. Very nice work. You'll have thousands of subs in no time if you keep making this quality of content :-)
Thank you very much! Fingers crossed 😉
Same here brill watch
@@adamdiaz8442 thank you!
Excellent job 👏
Thanks!
Great video and nice work! Keep it up..
Thank you very much!
Very well done
Thank you!
Nice video work. Subbed. Keep it up. It’s a grind
Thank you so much! I have been subbed to your channel for quite a while, it's an honor to get this comment from you! Your restorations are TOP TIER btw, the best I've seen.
Great project, really pro video composition and editing. Smart voice over, accurate and to the point.
All round for a small channel you are 👍🏅 so I subbed. 🛎🙂
Thank you so much! I am brand new to this whole editing thing, so this is very encouraging. Thank you!
Nice part! I've always wanted to try doing acme threads but never had a reason.
Thank you! You should give it a shot!
Cool channel, no bs or hype, just good skills
Thank you so much!
Machinist here. On that bearing journal I would leave a small radius in that corner. Doesn't have to be much but I would at least go like .03-.04. A sharp corner like that creates an easy place to break. The bearing should not have a problem sitting flat against that shoulder because bearings have radiused corners on the ID. One other tip. When you flipped is around and dialed it in the 4 jaw you probably were not running straight front to back. Don't know how good it needs to run but usually you would hold on to the ass end of the part and turn it all the way back so when you turn it around you have two places to dial too.
Thanks very much!
Just stumbled on this channel. There seems to be a lot of potential here. This style of editing reminds me of ThisOldTony's channel. Keep this up and you will have great success.
Thank you so much! That is a huge compliment! I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement, thank you!
Loved the video…
Thank you!
Hi, just subbed
Looking forward to some great content
Cheers
Thank you! Working on the next one :)
Really liked the video nice zen watch. would of liked to hear a bit more music, especially through the time lapses will be subscribed for more :)
Thank you for the sub! And thank you for the feedback! This is my first experiment with music, but I will definitely work on getting better at using it and use it more frequently!
Looks like your vieweship has grown ten-fold in the 2 months since this video. You have a great presence and style, looking forward to your content!
Yeah I have been incredibly fortunate with the kindness and support that I've received for the channel. The hobby folks are really the best group of people on the internet, hands down. It has been humbling, and inspiring. I am filled with gratitude. And thank you so much! I'm just winging it lol. But there is a lot of work that goes into these vids so it's really encouraging when I get such kind comments. Thank you. :)
Absolutely very nice and neat job i have already subscription to your channel ❤
Thank you!
Nice job.
I just subscribed to your channel.
Have a good weekend. 👍
Thanks very much! And thank you for the sub, I really appreciate it! Have a great weekend as well.
Делаешь черновую обработку с двух сторон, оцентровав при этом деталь. Затем в шпиндель центр ставишь, через хомут крепеж детали. Чистовую без всяких 4х кулачковых патронов делаешь. Несмотря даже на разбег центра.
Спасибо большое за комментарий!
1144 is nice to work with.
Yeah, it's good stuff. Gives a great finish off HSS, and it's stable after machining so makes a good choice for things like feed screws that need to accurate but don't need to be hardened.
Nice work. Nice job on the video, too. Any reason why you didn't turn the second half between centers instead of using a 4 jaw?
Thank you! And yes in fact. First, the important features, the shaft where the handle connects and the thread, both end up concentric with the bearing surface in the way that I did it, so it wasn't strictly necessary to turn between centers. Second, I was turning a course acme thread with a carbide insert, so tool pressure was high. The part is far more likely to slip in a drive dog with only the single point of contact of a bolt head on a copper pad or something holding it secure. And third, I can dial in a 4 jaw chuck in about 30 seconds, maybe less. It's much faster than setting up between centers. Add all that together, and the decision wasn't a hard one. Maybe should have mentioned the rationale in the vid. Thanks again!
Very good
Thank you!
Wait, you set the 4-jaw without the tailstock center engaged? Did you at least check for deflection after engagement??
Tailstocks, are adjustable. I aligned it before starting. Then, and I know this is gonna sound crazy, but just hear me out. Then, I monitored for taper during the machining process.
Could you tell me what acme tool you were using? As in toolholder/insert? I would like to try my hand at this soon. Thank you, job well done!!
They are TNMC inserts. NT are the ones for acme threads and NV are for 60* standard V threads. mine specifically are size 43 so they are TNMC 43 NT 8P for this specific thread. Good luck on your project btw, and thank you for watching!
High speed steel over carbide for tight tolerances? Not heard that one before
Now you have :) Thanks for watching!
@@hersch_tool do you have some reasoning for it or is it just a habit thing? I’ve developed some weird machinist quirks for certain stuff, sure we all have.
@@jayhammersley9534 Yeah it's just because I can take much much lighter passes with the sharp HSS. For example, with a sharp piece of HSS I can dial in a .0005 cut using my top slide at 30 degrees, (sin(30)=.5 so a .001 tick on the scale with it set at 30 degrees advances .0005 towards work) and the sharp HSS tool will still take a nice cut at that small DOC. This lets you really sneak up on a critical dimension and really takes a lot of stress out of the process as you're much less likely to blow right past your mark. You can't take a cut that small using an insert. I actually learned that trick from a book but I can't remember the name offhand.
@@hersch_tool ah fair enough mate, nice bit of knowledge I’m sure I’ll use it eventually, I’ve not had too much of a hard time hitting double digit micron tolerances yet, but I’m sure that’s just luck of the draw with machinery. Cheers
@@jayhammersley9534 Lol, there's also a strong possibility that I'm just paranoid, and also I can't figure out how to make good insert selections for the task and material at hand to save my life. So I often fall back on HSS... Some day I'll get some inserts and tool holders that didn't come from a random box at an auction and actually learn how to use the stuff more effectively.
Nice work where did you get that tool setter
Thank you very much! It's a planer gauge :)
Hi Hersch, could you send me the link so get the tool and insert for machinizing the nut for the acme thread? Please. Thanks in advance
I didn't machine the nut for this project, only the screw. However, if I were to make a nut this size in bronze, I would likely prefer to just use a tap. Something like this: tinyurl.com/acme-tap As for the acme insert, they are Tool Flo TNMC 43NT-8 inserts: tinyurl.com/acme-insert I don't have a link to the exact tool holder, but it's this style: tinyurl.com/tool-holder
@@hersch_tool Hi hersch. Thank you very much for your support.
Hi great job.
What is your Brand lathe ?
Thank you very much! The lathe model is listed in the video description :)
What was the source for the Acme cutter? Thanks. Merry Xmas. I hope you keep the channel with manual equipment and skip the high priced CNC tools. As a home machinist wannabe and woodworker even the 1500sq ft of shop is not enough for every tool under the sun, even had I the money to purchase them. Where I live there is no reasonable used tool market so whatever I need has to be at full price. Shipping alone runs about a buck a pound, so I am confined to basics and that is the type of machining I like to view. You have a good channel going. I subscribed after the first viewing a few months back.
Thanks very much for the kind words of encouragement. I will keep working hard at the channel and I really appreciate the sub. And I definitely won't be leaving behind the manual machining, ever. The old manual machines are what get my blood pumping, that's where I really enjoy myself. I just don't get the same "feeling" when I look at a fancy CNC machine that I get when I see a beautiful old manual machine. Though I might explore some CNC in the future, maybe a small lathe or mill conversion or something. But it will never replace the manual machines for me, and the channel is primarily about my love for manual machines and machining. So that's not going anywhere. :) And the acme insert came from eBay, I can't afford to buy good inserts from the retailers lol. They are 43 NT - 8P inserts. The 8P denotes whatever pitch thread they cut, so 8P for 8 pitch, 10P, 6P, etc. Thanks again for the sub, and thank you for watching!
Dude, i literally just watched 2 of your videos, this one and the collet adapter... When i was watching this, i subbed, and the sub count was like 878 or something like that... Now im writing this comment, and as im writing, the sub count was 919, then it jumped to 920... Nice fucking going mate... If im not wholly mad or my browser is shitting me, you just netted like 40 subs in the span of half an hour... I gotta say, that is a good job, better than that surface finish on the collet adapter, that`s for sure :P
Ahahaha! Yeah I was on the struggle bus with that finish... 😂 But hey, can't win em all right? And thanks very much! It's surreal. I can't even believe the support that I'm getting. I'm on cloud 9 and feeling constantly grateful. It's a good feeling. 😁
@@hersch_tool Glad for ya man, its great when you finally start getting viewers... Anyone who makes content, at lest worthwhile content, is making it because they want people to either learn or enjoy or both, in whatever form or capacity, so having 0 views sucks ass like a lollipop...
Speaking of finish, that was mostly a wrong tool selection... You said a sharp hss round, but that round seems to have some geometry impairments... Those gouges are both a result of lack of lubrication for the cut, and the tool geometry... From where im sitting, at least...
I would even mostly blame the lack of lubrication for it, as the gouges seem more like galling due to chip getting stuck and smeared along the surface, tearing its way around the part whenever one got caught... I know that round profile cutter have that tendency increased as when compared to a sharp point cutters, which leave their own marks, but a large round nose has the large surface where its not really cutting, yet is so damn close to the work that any little chip that tries to sneak through there is bound to get caught and dick up the finish...
I kinda prefer parting tools for that use... You grind and lap a hssco10% parting blade into a razor, as flat along the edge as possible and use it like a shear tool on the shaper... It is in full contact with the surface all the way, it leaves ridiculously good finishes, and other than doc limitations, which for finishing passes isnt a concern, its just the perfect tool... Sure, it has a lot of tool-pressure, being a large engagement surface cutter, even when sharp as allowable to do its job, but other than that, i advise it highly...
Just give the corners a bit of a radius so they dont shatter due to lateral feed... Tho, you could just aswell diamond grind and lap a carbide parting blade into a finishing tool... carbide doesnt have to be blunt to work... for already smooth surface with minimal doc and smooth slow feed and high speed, a sharp parting carbide tool will last a good while if lapped to 1 micron or less... The better the surface finish of the cutter, the better the surface finish of the part, and the longer the cutter will sustain its edge... Not sharper, but better surface finish, even if you radius the edge a bit, as long as the surface finish of the cutter is sublime, its going to impart a sublime finish onto the part...
All the best!
P.s. additional 50 subs since i posted the original comment... damn dude!
@@camillosteuss Thanks brother. It is very nice. And yeah I think you're probably right about that tool. I've used it on some other materials with success, but your comments make a lot of sense. I'm learning every day, just having fun, sharing my experiences, and trying to get a little bit better with every project. I really do enjoy it, it's a great feeling being able to turn something in your head into a real "thing" in the world. I really appreciate these kinds of comments. One of the big goals I wanted out of this channel was to be able to learn from others, and for other like minded folks to be able to converse, learn, and have some fun together. So thank you. Thank you for your support, and thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Hope to keep seeing you around!
@@hersch_tool
Preach brother, im the same essentially... A dude who fell in love with machinery and have been learning for last around 15 years with unrelenting dedication, even tho i had no hope for the first 10 years of getting a single machine... Now i have a machine swamp, with most machines being in disarray and need of repair, but i made a started uploading my stuff, as i would not be where i am without amazing people like Robin Renz, Stefan, AvE, Prezzo and the likes... Nor would i know how to tig weld, nor would i get a tig welder in the first place... Sure, i studied from manuals and books and other literature, but the initial exposure was due to their online works, and i want to either help those who share the passion, or just post content interesting to those who already know more than i do...
Oh, and you will see me around... I just discovered your channel... But i am kinda like the black mould... If i like the place, you aint getting rid of me that easily... :P
All the best and kindest regards!
Steuss
@@camillosteuss "you aint getting rid of me that easy" Glad to hear it! :)
lol, i made the same mistake assuming i had a 406 key seat cutter when i turned the replacement cross slide leadscrew for my lathe. Funny:) I used 12L14 for the material on mine though. 1144 is also great, both great choices.
Haha, glad I'm not the only one 😉
As far as I know, 1.1144 steel should be case hardened for parts like this lead screw. But then finish the part with the fit only after hardening. It won't last long in soft condition. I would also have turned the part completely between centers. Then all parts run and I do not have to align long with the dial gauge. In addition, I do not understand why the carriage is set at an angle when thread cutting. This is only done sometimes with saw threads with a straight flank to get a nice surface on it. For the finishing of the fit you also need no HSS lathe knife but you simply take a corresponding insert with a slightly larger tip radius.
Thank you for your feedback!
It is going in a proper bearing so no wear there. The thread will most likely be into a bronze nut with oil etc so for light duty use probably it does not need hardening.
Its a big difference between light duty hobby use, thread turned by hand, and full industrial factory use where it might run 24 hours a day and even be motor driven.
@@wizrom3046 It's going into an old vintage leblond tailstock. I reckon he'll never have to think about this screw again once it's installed. :)
@@wizrom3046 Then I would have at least taken another steel where smoother surfaces are easier to achieve. These steels that have sulfur for easier machinability are not really ideal. The surfaces are never really smooth with them. On the thread flanks that would be quite good for a low wear in the spindle nut.
@@peterpan7903 ... thanks for the information.
Yes maybe the steel is not perfect, but for a tailstock feed screw? With normal hobby use will probably have no significant wear in 10 years time.
Sometimes "the steel you have" is the right stuff if you know what I mean. 🙂
Nice job, 😅
Thanks very much :)
Değerli ustam böyle parçaları 2 punta arasında işlemelisin pafta ile çektiğin diş olmamış diş salgılı olmuş diş çekerken soğutma sıvısı kullan ayrıca arabadaki volanda taksimat cetveli yokmu pergelle işaretleme yapıyorsun,saygılarımla.
I thought one wasn't supposed to 'sneak up on dimensions' and rather use the 'half the final distance' method?!
_One turns the diameter down with two cut depths left (say 2x 0.500mm), measures the diameter, takes a defined cut (say 0.500mm), measures again and can now EXACTLY dial in how much has to be cut taking into account what the first 0.500mm depth cut has caused in diameter reduction. This method gets one reliably within +/-0.002mm._
Honestly, I'm not exactly sure what you're getting at. You're pretty much just describing the act of turning. But .002mm is around 7 millionths of an inch, which is outside of the ability of common measuring tools, and isn't something that you'd even be attempting to achieve reliably on a lathe with a shearing tool. You would likely be grinding, or using edm for that, and measuring in a controlled environment with specialized tools. (If those tolerances mattered) Interesting question though, thanks, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool the bog standard digital micrometers show 0.001 mm as smallest increment. Linear scales with 0.001 mm resolution also are off the shelf available.
So we can measure this (on the spot, relatively, not absolute) reliably even in the hobby shop.
As for what I described - is different than 'sneaking up on a dimension' by keeping the cutting parameters similar and thus the reaction of the tool and part to the cut. 'Sneaking up' IMHO means trying to shave off ever less to arrive at a desired dimension which does not work for insert tools..
@@hersch_tool PS: 0.002 mm / 25.4mm gives 78.7x10^-6 .. so it's more like 80 millionths of an inch ;-)
@@joansparky4439 Yeah, that's true, my scales can technically go out that far actually, but I definitely don't trust them past a couple of ten thousandths/in. I only have one metric mic and it's in tenths of a mm, but I believe you that digitals can go out to the hundredths place. And I'm not trying to be a smarta$$ or argue with you or anything. Still though, to hit those kinds of tolerances in any kind of reliable fashion you'd want to start taking things like temperature into account, like at what temp would you like it to be within a few millionths of a specific dimension. (This is why steel gauge blocks tell you at what ambient temperature they are reliable) And I'd definitely want to use a different machining technique over a shearing tool if I'm trying to get better than a ten thousandth of an inch. All of that said, I recommend using whatever techniques work for you to hit whatever tolerances are necessary for your project.
@@hersch_tool no worries, I like a nice discussion / argument if it's logical ;-)
Initially I was just posting because I've been taught and seen others do it the way I described and what that reliably results in as it seemed important to u to hit those dimensions.
Otherwise - keep up the good work.
👍
Thanks!
more like 549 subs mate 😊
It's unbelievable! There must be a glitch in the system, or something... 😄
I think this will make a Stick Barbell or Dumbbell😅😅
The palnner gage is interested other way to find hight
Thanks! It works well and gives me a reason to pull out the planar gauge 😂
@@hersch_tool LoL 🤣
RUclips says 1.75K subscribers.
You say 400.
?
It was 400 at the time the video was recorded. :)
Noice!
Thanks!
real machinist wouldn't use a die for the 3/8-16 thread.
"Reference from" NOT "Reference off of" dosey yank
😀😀😀😀😀
Nicely made. Extra points for using a hermaphrodite divider to scribe lines on the rotating work instead of wearing the nibs on your caliper.
A note of caution. Never, never touch rotating work with your hands. It is a very dangerous habit. You'll get away with doing that 999 times, but then it'll be a trip to the ER to get your fingers stitched up. Threads especially can have burrs like a razor blade and are invisible when the work is rotating. Turned surfaces can get you too. Rotating, the work may look perfectly smooth but in fact is about like a wood rasp.
And never, never, never put your hand or fingers into rotating work to polish or deburr. My wife is a retired ER nurse and she can explain to you in gruesome detail what can happen. Chop sticks make excellent tools to hold abrasive paper to polish and deburr work as well as catching work being parted off.
Looking forward to more of your videos.
Cheers from NC/USA
Thank you! The chop sticks sound like a great tip, I'll have to give that a try!
401 as of 2 seconds ago....
As to your favorability, I suggest you to show your face, because for every highly prefered channel I observed that guys show their faces and also add a cute pet for attraction. One more thing, Shooting from a larger room is much more appealing (eg, cee Australia)
Looks like you know what your doing.
As for the weird hands thing. It's super annoying. Who does that?
I'll subscribe if you stop the wierd puppet show.
Actually, literally actually.😢
507.....
😁
809........
@@bondie9150 🤯
I hate when people try to be like other machinist youtubers. Why not just be original, be yourself? Otherwise your just a schmuck trying to act like someone else. I mean if you at least had some knowledge of the trade you might pull it off, but it’s obvious here...
Thanks for you comment!