There's nothing like stubborn determination for getting answers and solving problems! Your work may save a lot of people a lot of work of their own. Even if it's not monetarily worth the effort to repair a cheap item, the knowledge learned by doing is absolutely PRICELESS! Well done, Vince! 👍👍
With BGAs, as long as you do a clean lift and don't add or take away solder from a pad, you should be able to reflow it back just fine. You could practice with the faulty boards since you now know a bypass for the voltage regulator.
I agree. I have done it a few times and it worked. For me I got them flowing really well and lift strait up up and quickly. When re applying, add no clean flux and set it correctly on the pins. Use slight pressure in the middle of the die and heat until it flows.
Yeah I'd definitely would attempt reinstalling the chips really what's the worst that can happen it's already declared dead practice on it and reinstall the regulator as well and jump the 5v from the input to the output side that thing is so tiny I'd put money the original owner put a 12v plug into it and that part overheated burning the 5v lead like a wick.
I know this has already been mentioned, but I will state it as well. Best guess power management IC (PMIC), voltage controller, or load driver. Potentially dual input dual out, possiblity the ability to invert (polarity) of at least one of the outputs. Yes it may have either a reference voltage leg or feedback circuit. If a load controller the ability to soft start limiting inrush current plus supply voltage to control circuitry, power supply input, and a voltage output to the load. The thing to keep in mind are these types of ICs have the capacity to not just regulate a voltage, but ability to sense over current and over voltage conditions and shunt the output to ground to save other SMDs (or ICs) on the PCB. Some even have the ability to sense over temp conditions and do the same thing. As an example, transistors are extremely current sensitive devices... So if you bodge to bypass this IC and an over current condition is presented (such as a capacitor shorting to ground or leaky and acting more like a resistor) it is highly likely you'll burn out other components as well such as a transistors. Again just one example there are many. Your gut served you well in this regard with assessing whether or not a bodge is an appropriate fix. I tried a bit to find a pin configuration sub, but without having the board in front of me and scoping each pin there are too many variations to make a guess. However, if you have the time I would suggest starting with looking up LM Series or TPS Series or MP Series semiconductors in the QFN-12 package type. The closes things I could find, without more data, that were at least pin arranged equal (most likely not pin for pin compatible or even the right IC) are MP5073GG-P, MP5087GG-Z, MP5087GG-P, MP5087AGG-P, and MP5077GG-Z load drivers.
I agree, I had a search too, then noticed your reply. MP5077GG-P seems a likely, although I'd need to have a proper look at the circuit to see if the pins matched, but the footprint and type of PMIC would definitely fit the bill.
I think this I kindly of good way, but the wrong direction is the identification of the IC package because this is not QFN-12, it is STQFN-12 (Silego Technologies). I think Vince need to find an IC in silego side instead of Texas Instruments.
I think it's a reset/power monitor switch. It's function is to distribute voltages in the correct order and monitor voltages. If bridging it works, it will probably keep on working, although power-up timing will not be according to spec.
My guess is an over/under voltage protection chip (FFP2260 maybe?), in which case it should work just fine with Vince's fix as long as the voltage remains correct
Also at 28 minute- this is a four layer board and the via goes to one of the inner layers. It's very common for boards using BGA processors and high speed RAM to use at least four layers in order that they can handle the fanout of the traces under the chip in order that they don't miss their timing requirements.
4:22 well I'm more than proud to be part of the small percentage of female/non-male viewers :) I've always been a huge fan of tech stuff as a whole (hell, I'm pursuing a degree in CS!) and even though I know I'm consistently a minority in the tech world I still enjoy it nonetheless
Pure guesswork on my part (and would need a pin-to-pin check), the IC may be a rebadged FPF2260ATMX OVP / UVLO controller, which would make sense if the transistors marked 138 were BSS138 mosfets. If so, then a replacement should be in order as the IC protects against over / under voltage (someone else pointed out a possible hole in a diode, so there may have been an under or over or reverse voltage situation).
This was my guess too. As long as the voltage Vince is feeding in via the bypass is correct and stable, his fix should be just fine, but putting a new FFP2260 in there would probably get it working properly I think. I've seen this sort of thing fail on some small laptops too - it's a pity that the power management on these devices isn't a bit more robust...
I saw a video where someone (pretty sure it was MikesElectricStuff) used a little brush made of fine copper wire to follow PCB traces. Lots of strands helps probe a big area of the PCB at once without having to go around components etc. individually
Always good to watch your videos, you are good at problem-solving and very persistent.. a couple of things I would have done differently from the start. An amp meter or power supply to see how much current the board was drawing, a thermal camera or IPA to see if any of those chips around the power socket were getting hot. keep up the good work
So the way you turn on an N-channel FET or an NPN BJT is to ground the gate or the base. I'd guess that the chip is a power sequencing chip (lots of chips have power sequencing requirements, where Vcore has to come up before Vio, or similar) and the transistor is gating the appropriate rail.
Usually positive rail switching is done with P-channel FET. N-channel is used if you switch ground side. Power sequencer is really good ques. I was thinking PMIC for power management for sleep/power off modes. Usually those are in same chip but you can do power sequencing with multirail regulator that has separated enables.
it is the P-channel mosfet you normally ground gate to turn on. The N-channel fet is turned on when positive voltage in respect to source is applied to the gate and the source us usually grounded, unless you have a N-channel Depletion type mosfet which is on when gate is zero volts and you then need to apply negative voltage to the gate to turn it off instead. P-channel fets are more often used in a positive supply section as current limiters or short circuit protection. it is very likely the Sot23 in this video is a P-channel Fet which was turned off due to short to ground gate voltage from this faulty 12 pin chip
Add a wire to where the 5v was going in and add that connection to where the 5v should be going and bypass that trace even if you can’t find it. You know you have it worked with the battery and the correct voltage up to where it stops. I recommend reflowing the chip and fixing it with a bypass wire.
Hello, thanks for your videos, maybe you can rig a sort of metal brushing to probe the board for connectivity, it would allow you to find a zone of connectivity and check the board quicker. Maybe some steal whool attached to your probe that you can press on the board ?
It could be some kind of PMIC, which monitors / holds rails until others come up etc, it may occasionally lock up when turning on, it may not, it would need the memory for the operating system and to buffer the image etc. Interesting repair vid, send the other one to th3coder to reball. Would be good to get a quick review a few months down the line if they are still working with the bridge.
You could do with having an oscilloscope to check the clock on circuitry like this, sometimes if the clock is missing the circuit won't work. Rf circuits are hard to repair without the equipment.
I think it is just a safety thing. A power managament ic that can turn multiple transistors on and off by the enable signal(comming from the bottom, long line). And can detect short and undervoltage by the dividers.
AllAboutCirciuts has a detailed teardown of the SteamLink, including what each component is for. The only thing lacking is a schematic, but that would require people to xray the board, etc...
Just on first glance this looks like a current sensor. It's used for detecting overcurrent. Internal resistance is milli-ohms which is why the package can be so small - it generates almost no waste heat. It will assert the FAULT line when there's an overcurrent scenario.
It looks like the chip is some sort of power protection. Something like FPF2260ATMX, but the markings don't match, so I don't know if it is the correct one.
interesting fault!!! could you take /replace the missing 5 volt signal from somewhere else and put a diode in the signal path to avoid damage elsewhere in the other circuits might be worth a try ,you do have a second chance with the other faulty steam link
Great job working out the cause there (and the bypass) - I am puzzled myself as to what that IC might be doing... If its a power management IC something somewhere might be getting overvoltaged with that bypass. I wonder if it provides 3.3v or lower for other stuff on the board. So it may work for a few hours and then something might die? It would be strange to have 5v going in, and then regulate 5v (and technically not possible without first boosting from 5v to a higher voltage). I have one of these myself btw - they are great =D I believe Jeri Ellsworth had a hand in creating these btw - check out her RUclips stuff if you haven't already (in regards to women in tech).
Not sure if you'll be able to answer this, but I've always found mixed information online about the Steam Link. I have one, but haven't used it. Would I be able to connect the Steam Link directly to my laptop which would be running the game, through Ethernet? I know it doesn't make too much sense, since I could just as easily connect my laptop through HDMI to my TV, but just wondering. If that's not possible, would it make it a lot faster if I connect both the Steam Link and my Laptop into the router via Ethernet (for both)?
Might be an extra layer of protection if it surges, but the problem is you don't know, so it may work for a week then melt itself. That's the problem with complex boards the power management gets crazy because loads of the components can be there just incase the worst case scenario happens, you don't want to kill a device over not putting a 50p chip in.
I wasn't sure on that, as there wasn't an inductor or diode near it, but it appears that there is on the opposite side of the board I think its on the other side of that chip but it's hard to make out the layout of the board when you have to jump backwards and forwards through a video without having the board in front of you.
I bet your wife hoovered the carpet before you did this repair, I know mine would have. " We can't show the Internet people a dirty carpet, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night ! !"
Man... If i had the money i would definitely be a patreon mmv massive member... Im literally 13 years old writing on my moms account😅 anyway, vince love ur vids and wait every day for a new vid 😊 lots of ❤ hope u read this and know that you have young fellows like me following 🎉
Since my last comment was removed. Probably because it contained a link ... Probably this was already suggested, but I think that the voltage regulator is TPS715A01DRBT by Texas Instruments
I'm not knowledgable enough to know what the faulty chip does exactly, but I'd think it would be safe to use. At worst, using it like that could lead to some other component blowing further down the line, and you wouldn't be any worse off than when you started. But most likely, it's not a strictly needed component, the 5V should already be stable enough not to damage anything, and my guess is that it was put in as an extra measure to meet strict safety or EMI regulations.
You want to get hold of a IC picker Vince my mate. Even if it's just one of the cheap suction one's, you'll get a much cleaner lift when pulling bga's. Just a thought 👍🏻 Edit: sorry bud, should of watched the whole thing before commenting, it seems you're lifting them very cleanly with ya tweezers 🤷🏻♂️
I think the chip might be a MONOLITHIC POWER SYSTEMS (MPS) MP21148GQD-P DC-DC Switching Synchronous Buck Regulator, 2.3V-5.5V in, 600mV to 5.5V out, 1A, 2.4MHz, QFN-6 ,or something like that (I know it's not the same model )but it's what I could find looking at components on the new steam deck hope it helps
I don't think it is voltage regulators. I think it just bug converter chip or, some switch ic. Maybe the engineer worry about power on timing. So it not really a big deal at all, for general power rail. Unless the main chip require the precision power on timing.
I know you probably know this, but with ir camera and voltage injection you could probably find that chip in a matter of minutes. But then we'd miss all the good stuff we love about your channel 😁
When you got it working with the battery pack I was excited for you. That would have had me running a jumper wire. It wouldn't be a perfect fix but it would make it work long enough to get some usage out of it.
Not sure if it was mentioned but there should be either one or two transistors that switches the unit on once it or they are biased correctly. When you fed 5 volts into the circuit to get it going you simply bi-passed the sensing transistor/s or regulator thus powering the unit correctly, from there the voltage is fed to the voltage regulators Sensing circuitry usually are there as fault protection as in over voltage or over current.. "Power supply Spikes"
If you watch Soren's (spelling?) work on Electronics Repair School channel, he is always bypassing or removing faulty regulators and components inside laptops and sending them back to his customers. It's seems OK to do this , I guess, depending on what the problem was. Just glad that he is not a brain surgeon or in the medical field! Lol!! 😂😂
That little square thingy is Power advisor, it monitors power boot sequence, all input voltages and fabricate enable signal if boot sequence pattern is correct. Why you took out the CPU, it is powered by 0.9V, why you took RAM, it is powered by 1.2V, this will give you nothing, unless you want to train BGA reballing and why not start doing that here? ;)
So I was on reddit, I did something one of them did-- I plugged in a 9v power supply because the cable fit the steam deck, as far as I know it hasn't worked since. I did find the original 5v power supply, it still doesn't work. No ethernet lights or power at all. I got a replacement but I'm wondering if this unit can be fixed? If you can take a look at it, id be more than happy to send it to you for educational reasons, if you break it down I don't care.
Yeah I don't get why you just don't have a wire from from the one that you know that's what has 5 volts to the spot where you know you need 5 volts and you're done
Hey Vince you shouldn't take off the CPU there is no way 5v go there anything more than 2 volts will fry the cpu. It must be some power supply chip that should supply 5 v and is not doing its thing or some resistor on the track don't check continuity, check oms resistance to find where the track is going...
Don't think your bodge will be dangerous as far as your TV is concerned, have a raspberry pi with 5v missing from the USB ports so just bypassed and linked to the 5v incoming supply been working like that for over 2 years now,
That chip looks similar to some of the type-c usb power delivery chips on Farnell. Just saying, might be that particular coding is no longer used. Just saying, not saying it is that.
Vince should have just bridged the 5v after you go it going with the batteries. Not a perfect fix but hey it worked. now its dead. Seen this done by laptop repair people on here.
I've fixed 2 steam links with bypassing the excact same regulator, i used to work in electronics repair shop until q2 2022 but i was fired because of greek economic crysis. Now im working alone on my home, i wasn't able to make any youtube video on these steam links because of the time pressure on my old work.
Im the only person who used mine but it was bad on wifi back in the day and finally having my own ethernet i tried it and it was dead. Between uses its been seal in original packaging, and dry. a real annoying situation.
I think that he just wanted to make absolutely sure that he knew what the faulty component was. If I came across this problem and quite possibly anyone else, I would probably do exactly what you suggested now.....at least until I got the new regulator if that's even possible. All of Vince's work tells us EXACTLY what the problem is so now we can "cut to the chase" so to speak. 👍👍 Be well and Happy Holidays!
Why didn't you just bridge the five volts to the right place with a wire, I know it's not the right solution but wouldn't that have technically fixed it
There's nothing like stubborn determination for getting answers and solving problems! Your work may save a lot of people a lot of work of their own. Even if it's not monetarily worth the effort to repair a cheap item, the knowledge learned by doing is absolutely PRICELESS! Well done, Vince! 👍👍
With BGAs, as long as you do a clean lift and don't add or take away solder from a pad, you should be able to reflow it back just fine. You could practice with the faulty boards since you now know a bypass for the voltage regulator.
I agree. I have done it a few times and it worked. For me I got them flowing really well and lift strait up up and quickly. When re applying, add no clean flux and set it correctly on the pins. Use slight pressure in the middle of the die and heat until it flows.
Yeah I'd definitely would attempt reinstalling the chips really what's the worst that can happen it's already declared dead practice on it and reinstall the regulator as well and jump the 5v from the input to the output side that thing is so tiny I'd put money the original owner put a 12v plug into it and that part overheated burning the 5v lead like a wick.
I hope Vince reads this, I'd love see it!
🤔😥🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I know this has already been mentioned, but I will state it as well. Best guess power management IC (PMIC), voltage controller, or load driver. Potentially dual input dual out, possiblity the ability to invert (polarity) of at least one of the outputs. Yes it may have either a reference voltage leg or feedback circuit. If a load controller the ability to soft start limiting inrush current plus supply voltage to control circuitry, power supply input, and a voltage output to the load.
The thing to keep in mind are these types of ICs have the capacity to not just regulate a voltage, but ability to sense over current and over voltage conditions and shunt the output to ground to save other SMDs (or ICs) on the PCB. Some even have the ability to sense over temp conditions and do the same thing.
As an example, transistors are extremely current sensitive devices... So if you bodge to bypass this IC and an over current condition is presented (such as a capacitor shorting to ground or leaky and acting more like a resistor) it is highly likely you'll burn out other components as well such as a transistors. Again just one example there are many. Your gut served you well in this regard with assessing whether or not a bodge is an appropriate fix.
I tried a bit to find a pin configuration sub, but without having the board in front of me and scoping each pin there are too many variations to make a guess. However, if you have the time I would suggest starting with looking up LM Series or TPS Series or MP Series semiconductors in the QFN-12 package type.
The closes things I could find, without more data, that were at least pin arranged equal (most likely not pin for pin compatible or even the right IC) are MP5073GG-P, MP5087GG-Z, MP5087GG-P, MP5087AGG-P, and MP5077GG-Z load drivers.
I agree, I had a search too, then noticed your reply. MP5077GG-P seems a likely, although I'd need to have a proper look at the circuit to see if the pins matched, but the footprint and type of PMIC would definitely fit the bill.
@@BuyitFixit just subbed to you.
@@HavingFunRepairs Thanks! Much appreciated 👍👍
I think this I kindly of good way, but the wrong direction is the identification of the IC package because this is not QFN-12, it is STQFN-12 (Silego Technologies). I think Vince need to find an IC in silego side instead of Texas Instruments.
@@BuyitFixit yes because the package is Stqfn-12 in stead of standard QFN-12
I think it's a reset/power monitor switch. It's function is to distribute voltages in the correct order and monitor voltages. If bridging it works, it will probably keep on working, although power-up timing will not be according to spec.
My guess is an over/under voltage protection chip (FFP2260 maybe?), in which case it should work just fine with Vince's fix as long as the voltage remains correct
Fantastic video! Amazing how you find these faults. You determination is unrivaled.
Also at 28 minute- this is a four layer board and the via goes to one of the inner layers. It's very common for boards using BGA processors and high speed RAM to use at least four layers in order that they can handle the fanout of the traces under the chip in order that they don't miss their timing requirements.
4:22 well I'm more than proud to be part of the small percentage of female/non-male viewers :) I've always been a huge fan of tech stuff as a whole (hell, I'm pursuing a degree in CS!) and even though I know I'm consistently a minority in the tech world I still enjoy it nonetheless
Nice fault finding, love the variety of devices you fix in this channel :) Never used this kind of game streamer, so good way to learn about them.
What an interesting little board repair. You did a great job editing this video. Thank you for your amazing content Vince.
Pure guesswork on my part (and would need a pin-to-pin check), the IC may be a rebadged FPF2260ATMX OVP / UVLO controller, which would make sense if the transistors marked 138 were BSS138 mosfets. If so, then a replacement should be in order as the IC protects against over / under voltage (someone else pointed out a possible hole in a diode, so there may have been an under or over or reverse voltage situation).
This was my guess too. As long as the voltage Vince is feeding in via the bypass is correct and stable, his fix should be just fine, but putting a new FFP2260 in there would probably get it working properly I think. I've seen this sort of thing fail on some small laptops too - it's a pity that the power management on these devices isn't a bit more robust...
Love your work Vince.....@27:49 I'm sure there's a crack in the board visible under the wire (disecting the 5 & 6 of TP156?)
Woman here too! Love your content. How many electrical items end up in a skip that just needed a small repair?
I saw a video where someone (pretty sure it was MikesElectricStuff) used a little brush made of fine copper wire to follow PCB traces. Lots of strands helps probe a big area of the PCB at once without having to go around components etc. individually
I was going to make the same suggestion. Haven't got a clue where I saw it. MikesElectricStuff doesn't ring a bell.
@@peterbremer6271 Found it - have a look at "Wire brush for reverse engineering PCBs" on his channel
@@gareth4168 I saw it in a actual repair video. Your example is better. More and finer wire and a simple construction.
Always good to watch your videos, you are good at problem-solving and very persistent.. a couple of things I would have done differently from the start. An amp meter or power supply to see how much current the board was drawing, a thermal camera or IPA to see if any of those chips around the power socket were getting hot.
keep up the good work
So the way you turn on an N-channel FET or an NPN BJT is to ground the gate or the base. I'd guess that the chip is a power sequencing chip (lots of chips have power sequencing requirements, where Vcore has to come up before Vio, or similar) and the transistor is gating the appropriate rail.
That does make sense! It's a shame we cannot work out the PN for this =/
Usually positive rail switching is done with P-channel FET. N-channel is used if you switch ground side.
Power sequencer is really good ques. I was thinking PMIC for power management for sleep/power off modes. Usually those are in same chip but you can do power sequencing with multirail regulator that has separated enables.
it is the P-channel mosfet you normally ground gate to turn on. The N-channel fet is turned on when positive voltage in respect to source is applied to the gate and the source us usually grounded, unless you have a N-channel Depletion type mosfet which is on when gate is zero volts and you then need to apply negative voltage to the gate to turn it off instead. P-channel fets are more often used in a positive supply section as current limiters or short circuit protection. it is very likely the Sot23 in this video is a P-channel Fet which was turned off due to short to ground gate voltage from this faulty 12 pin chip
A fan from the USA loving the content variety of fix it videos.
Merry Xmas to you and the family when it comes Vince. thanks for all the awesome trying to fix videos over the last year 👍
Add a wire to where the 5v was going in and add that connection to where the 5v should be going and bypass that trace even if you can’t find it. You know you have it worked with the battery and the correct voltage up to where it stops. I recommend reflowing the chip and fixing it with a bypass wire.
Hello, thanks for your videos, maybe you can rig a sort of metal brushing to probe the board for connectivity, it would allow you to find a zone of connectivity and check the board quicker.
Maybe some steal whool attached to your probe that you can press on the board ?
It could be some kind of PMIC, which monitors / holds rails until others come up etc, it may occasionally lock up when turning on, it may not, it would need the memory for the operating system and to buffer the image etc. Interesting repair vid, send the other one to th3coder to reball. Would be good to get a quick review a few months down the line if they are still working with the bridge.
You could do with having an oscilloscope to check the clock on circuitry like this, sometimes if the clock is missing the circuit won't work. Rf circuits are hard to repair without the equipment.
You get a gold star for perseverance Vince!! What is the type of flux you use for soldering?
I think it is just a safety thing. A power managament ic that can turn multiple transistors on and off by the enable signal(comming from the bottom, long line).
And can detect short and undervoltage by the dividers.
If you can't find anything, and you have time, you can make a little atmega to do the same job😀
'thrill of the chase' - that's what makes this a great channel!
AllAboutCirciuts has a detailed teardown of the SteamLink, including what each component is for. The only thing lacking is a schematic, but that would require people to xray the board, etc...
Question, could you not have plugged it in in the beginning the looked at the board with thermals to identify a faulty component?
Thank you so much for posting this. I finally have closure
Just on first glance this looks like a current sensor. It's used for detecting overcurrent. Internal resistance is milli-ohms which is why the package can be so small - it generates almost no waste heat. It will assert the FAULT line when there's an overcurrent scenario.
I am with much the same thought thinking My Mate Vince has merely bi-passed the over voltage and over current protection circuitry.
Really interesting mate and very enjoyable. I laughed at you saying “the thrill of the chase” 😅😂 awesome
Lol I Love the “AutoAutoPowerOff” on the multimeter
It looks like the chip is some sort of power protection. Something like FPF2260ATMX, but the markings don't match, so I don't know if it is the correct one.
interesting fault!!! could you take /replace the missing 5 volt signal from somewhere else and put a diode in the signal path to avoid damage elsewhere in the other circuits
might be worth a try ,you do have a second chance with the other faulty steam link
I was thinking the same thing - if you injected it from the batteries, why not from somewhere else on the board.
Great job working out the cause there (and the bypass) - I am puzzled myself as to what that IC might be doing... If its a power management IC something somewhere might be getting overvoltaged with that bypass. I wonder if it provides 3.3v or lower for other stuff on the board. So it may work for a few hours and then something might die? It would be strange to have 5v going in, and then regulate 5v (and technically not possible without first boosting from 5v to a higher voltage). I have one of these myself btw - they are great =D I believe Jeri Ellsworth had a hand in creating these btw - check out her RUclips stuff if you haven't already (in regards to women in tech).
I don't own one, but if you're ever willing to scope (O'scope) each pin of that component I'd be interested in knowing the results.
Not sure if you'll be able to answer this, but I've always found mixed information online about the Steam Link. I have one, but haven't used it. Would I be able to connect the Steam Link directly to my laptop which would be running the game, through Ethernet? I know it doesn't make too much sense, since I could just as easily connect my laptop through HDMI to my TV, but just wondering. If that's not possible, would it make it a lot faster if I connect both the Steam Link and my Laptop into the router via Ethernet (for both)?
Might be an extra layer of protection if it surges, but the problem is you don't know, so it may work for a week then melt itself.
That's the problem with complex boards the power management gets crazy because loads of the components can be there just incase the worst case scenario happens, you don't want to kill a device over not putting a 50p chip in.
And another video you did prove your patience. Wow.
If you would use the thermal camera trick, it would make things a lot easier. The guy from Northridge fix RUclips channel does that all the time.
From Switch destroyer to Steam Link Master :)
Great video again! Keep it up! Like to fix things to. Need to fix this week my parents dishwasher. .30 error on the aeg dishwasher. 🙌
43:22 - that's a Constant On-Time Non-Synchronous Buck Regulator - I guess it's there to allow low power mode or a sleep function.
I wasn't sure on that, as there wasn't an inductor or diode near it, but it appears that there is on the opposite side of the board I think its on the other side of that chip but it's hard to make out the layout of the board when you have to jump backwards and forwards through a video without having the board in front of you.
@@BuyitFixit I'm guessing it's a custom run as as well - it also appears to be based on a 10pin chip - similar to the Ti LM5010
I was wondering about the diode behind the power jack, it looks like there's a hole in it on the faulty first 1
I bet your wife hoovered the carpet before you did this repair, I know mine would have. " We can't show the Internet people a dirty carpet, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night ! !"
Man... If i had the money i would definitely be a patreon mmv massive member... Im literally 13 years old writing on my moms account😅 anyway, vince love ur vids and wait every day for a new vid 😊 lots of ❤ hope u read this and know that you have young fellows like me following 🎉
Since my last comment was removed. Probably because it contained a link ... Probably this was already suggested, but I think that the voltage regulator is TPS715A01DRBT by Texas Instruments
Getting spoiled with these regular videos, awesome work!
Great Video Vince :)
23:27 camp voice!
OMG Vince's hair was black when he started this repair :) lol :)
I feel right at home when you do the little janky stuff
I'm not knowledgable enough to know what the faulty chip does exactly, but I'd think it would be safe to use. At worst, using it like that could lead to some other component blowing further down the line, and you wouldn't be any worse off than when you started. But most likely, it's not a strictly needed component, the 5V should already be stable enough not to damage anything, and my guess is that it was put in as an extra measure to meet strict safety or EMI regulations.
You want to get hold of a IC picker Vince my mate.
Even if it's just one of the cheap suction one's, you'll get a much cleaner lift when pulling bga's.
Just a thought 👍🏻
Edit: sorry bud, should of watched the whole thing before commenting, it seems you're lifting them very cleanly with ya tweezers 🤷🏻♂️
I think the chip might be a MONOLITHIC POWER SYSTEMS (MPS) MP21148GQD-P
DC-DC Switching Synchronous Buck Regulator, 2.3V-5.5V in, 600mV to 5.5V out, 1A, 2.4MHz, QFN-6 ,or something like that (I know it's not the same model )but it's what I could find looking at components on the new steam deck hope it helps
I don't think it is voltage regulators. I think it just bug converter chip or, some switch ic. Maybe the engineer worry about power on timing. So it not really a big deal at all, for general power rail. Unless the main chip require the precision power on timing.
I know you probably know this, but with ir camera and voltage injection you could probably find that chip in a matter of minutes. But then we'd miss all the good stuff we love about your channel 😁
It didn't have a short to ground, so why would it get hot?
@my mate Vince have you checked around on the board with the removed BGAs for another similar chip, that might fit and work where the faulty one was?
amazing sir well done load of work
480p is the stable resolution for no studders. Use your TV to upscale (zoom in). Don't use this anymore, moved on to parsec.
great video vince not had 1 of these yet mate
Great work Gemma, and Liam! And of course you Vince!
I've a steam link that the barrel jack/pwr is only peaking at 2.5v, then drops to 1/2 volt. With that, do I replace the boards power port?
Probably nothing but I think I saw crack through the outer rim gold trace on the first board. Was close to where you injected th 5v.
When you got it working with the battery pack I was excited for you. That would have had me running a jumper wire. It wouldn't be a perfect fix but it would make it work long enough to get some usage out of it.
Not sure if it was mentioned but there should be either one or two transistors that switches the unit on once it or they are biased correctly.
When you fed 5 volts into the circuit to get it going you simply bi-passed the sensing transistor/s or regulator thus powering the unit correctly, from there the voltage is fed to the voltage regulators
Sensing circuitry usually are there as fault protection as in over voltage or over current..
"Power supply Spikes"
Sensing circuitry usually are there as fault protection as in over voltage or over current..
"Power supply Spikes"
If you watch Soren's (spelling?) work on Electronics Repair School channel, he is always bypassing or removing faulty regulators and components inside laptops and sending them back to his customers. It's seems OK to do this , I guess, depending on what the problem was. Just glad that he is not a brain surgeon or in the medical field! Lol!! 😂😂
That little square thingy is Power advisor, it monitors power boot sequence, all input voltages and fabricate enable signal if boot sequence pattern is correct. Why you took out the CPU, it is powered by 0.9V, why you took RAM, it is powered by 1.2V, this will give you nothing, unless you want to train BGA reballing and why not start doing that here? ;)
hi i believe it is a reset or power control ic
eg it removes power from the board to reset the chips and cuts power to enter a low power mode
So I was on reddit, I did something one of them did-- I plugged in a 9v power supply because the cable fit the steam deck, as far as I know it hasn't worked since. I did find the original 5v power supply, it still doesn't work. No ethernet lights or power at all. I got a replacement but I'm wondering if this unit can be fixed? If you can take a look at it, id be more than happy to send it to you for educational reasons, if you break it down I don't care.
Yeah I don't get why you just don't have a wire from from the one that you know that's what has 5 volts to the spot where you know you need 5 volts and you're done
vince, did you see a hole, where it appears to be a diode? D4
I was thinking was that IC some kind of power management for sleep so it cut power from certain part of circuit when it's off/power down.
3:34 I have some ethernet cable strippers like that, they work fairly well.
Early 3D prints will be some real artifacts in the future!
Hey Vince you shouldn't take off the CPU there is no way 5v go there anything more than 2 volts will fry the cpu. It must be some power supply chip that should supply 5 v and is not doing its thing or some resistor on the track don't check continuity, check oms resistance to find where the track is going...
Don't think your bodge will be dangerous as far as your TV is concerned, have a raspberry pi with 5v missing from the USB ports so just bypassed and linked to the 5v incoming supply been working like that for over 2 years now,
You could always sellotape a sewing needle onto your multimeter leads hehe
very nice one!
Hey Vince
Seems my comment was removed for some reason, i have a link where you can get the exact part you need. It is a PMIC
8:20 there is a chip here with a hole in it could it not be the faulty component? never mind i have reached the end :)
Hi Vince
When you work off camera
Do you you still talk
Like you would with camera on
How long before you give reballing a try again?
That chip looks similar to some of the type-c usb power delivery chips on Farnell. Just saying, might be that particular coding is no longer used. Just saying, not saying it is that.
Couldn't you have just run a jumper wire around to where you added the battery pack power?
No repairs needed because no one ever used them enough for it to break! Mine probably got less than 10 hours of use, and just sits on a shelf.
That wire-stripper is for removing the outer sheath from cables (like Ethernet cables) without cutting the interior insulation. Super handy.
Epic perseverance
Are you fixing an item that is broken or damaged.
Vire!
Nice. I got to a video early for once.
Vince should have just bridged the 5v after you go it going with the batteries. Not a perfect fix but hey it worked. now its dead. Seen this done by laptop repair people on here.
I've fixed 2 steam links with bypassing the excact same regulator, i used to work in electronics repair shop until q2 2022 but i was fired because of greek economic crysis. Now im working alone on my home, i wasn't able to make any youtube video on these steam links because of the time pressure on my old work.
Maybe some sort of usb controller? It may current limit usb ports?
Fault found brilliantly Vince well done
Trying. To. Fix. 2X. Steam Links. With. No. Power game
Steam Link Hardware is discontinued in favor of the App
Im the only person who used mine but it was bad on wifi back in the day and finally having my own ethernet i tried it and it was dead. Between uses its been seal in original packaging, and dry. a real annoying situation.
Ooh new item not tried before
a voltage regulator ensures the voltage never goas above a certain voltage.
It's just me or the diode below the choke looks like it has a hole (D4)?
It would make my year if you and EEVBLOG made a collab video love your videos!
...and now reball the Chips you took off and put them on the Board again ;)
Sometimes, Ethernet does not light up until you plug something in
I don't get it why not just add an extra wire connecting those two like you did and leave it it will work
I think that he just wanted to make absolutely sure that he knew what the faulty component was. If I came across this problem and quite possibly anyone else, I would probably do exactly what you suggested now.....at least until I got the new regulator if that's even possible. All of Vince's work tells us EXACTLY what the problem is so now we can "cut to the chase" so to speak. 👍👍
Be well and Happy Holidays!
Valve really didn't release schematics or even a test manual for the Steam Link? They don't sell them anymore...
Why didn't you just bridge the five volts to the right place with a wire, I know it's not the right solution but wouldn't that have technically fixed it