JAEGER-LECOULTRE Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Steel & Pink Gold. Interchangeable strap system.
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- #JaegerLeCoultre #JaegerLeCoultrePolaris #perpetualcalendar @jaegerlecoultre
In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a perpetual calendar to the Polaris line for the first time, enriching the collection with one of horology’s most complex, useful and prized complications. With a deep gradient-blue lacquer dial amplifying its sporty-elegant style, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. Its newly developed, in-house movement, Jaeger- LeCoultre Calibre 868AA provides a display of the moon phases in both hemispheres, as well as an extended power reserve of 70 hours, in addition to the perpetual calendar displays and rotating inner bezel - a signature of the Polaris line.
• Redefining the modern sporty-elegant wristwatch, the Polaris perpetual calendar is powered by the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
• A gradient-blue lacquer dial provides a visually rich and highly legible display of calendar indications and the moon phases in both hemispheres
• The 42mm case in steel or pink gold features a rapid-change attachment for the interchangeable straps
The historic Polaris name was reintroduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 with an entirely new line of watches that harness the Manufacture’s distinguished legacy of diving watches, and translate the spirit of the celebrated 1968 Memovox Polaris into contemporary form. Conceived for everyday adventures, with a combination of robust capabilities, practical functions and a distinctive aesthetic, the Polaris collection has redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA developed for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar has evolved from the well-proven in-house perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013. It has been upgraded in line with the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations and significantly modified, with a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases complementing the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display, as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours. Supplementing the calendar indications, the rotating inner bezel - a Polaris signature - offers the practical function of measuring elapsed time.
Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night - a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement.
With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the calendar indications are displayed in three sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, with the year displayed within the month indicator. A pleasing reminder that calendars had their origins in astronomical phenomena, the moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock - with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing a classical display for its Northern counterpart. Each of the four sub-dials is slightly recessed and finished in different textures, adding visual richness as the light plays across them.
At the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red between the hours of 20:00 and 04:00 to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes, bold trapezoid-haped indexes balance the complexity and fine detail of the calendar displays. Luminescent coating on hands and indexes enhances legibility in all light conditions - an essential attribute for a sport watch.
The 42mm cases, in steel or pink gold, feature the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, fine bezels, glass-box crystals, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. A transparent sapphire crystal case-back and an open-worked pink gold winding rotor reveal the fine decorative finishes on the movement.
Crucially for a timepiece designed for everyday living, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is easy to operate and adjust. The top crown rotates the inner bezel - both features being Polaris signatures - while the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. Calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
POLARIS PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Case: steel or pink gold
Dimensions: 42mm x 11.97mm
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
Frequency: 28,800
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel
Power reserve: 70 hours
Dial: gradient blue lacquer
Water resistance: 100m
References:
Q9088180 - steel version (interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap)
Q9082680 - pink gold version (interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap) 
Хобби
a sporty Perpetual Calendar in a 42 mm case and 100 m water resistant, great move by JLC... as always 🤩
Pairing a high complication and a sports watch seems like such a cool idea. 😃
einfach nur gigantisch schön!
Gorgeous Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Love it.
Stunning; favourite of the new releases. Thanks for presenting.
Very nice !!
Superb review as always Alexander!
Genuinely impressive to fit so much mechanics into a sensibly sized watch. Less than 12mm thick? Impressive
Superb review as always !
Simply stunning. Bravo JLC
Stunning!
Stunning
Thank you for this sneak peak! Absolutely stunning watch. The dimensions are shocking considering the complications included. Out of my budget but I would love to see one in person. Personally I think the gold one matches very well with the blue dial
Beautiful absolutely beautiful.
Thanks for sharing! Have you had the chance to try it in real yet?
Gold one is gorgeous!
Superb timepiece…👍
wow this is just an amazing watch
Great work on this
Beautiful 😍.
Masterpieces.
Amazing!
Now that is a great design ,wow!!
In this case size matters... it brings on good readability...
I saw them in person today. The gold version is absolutely gorgeous. It's a fairly large watch but feels great on the wrist.
Stunning piece.
Steel or gold? Bracelet or strap?
@@WatchAdvisor gold with strap!
Eine wirklich mega coole Uhr ☝️✌️
Awesome
Ow my.
I thought I liked the VC Overseas Everest... but this is playing in the same liga! I love it in that gold!
Thanks Alex for the wonderful review. I've ordered the steel model of this amzing timepiece after watching your video and it will be delivered in four months. The other watch I had bought after watching your review is the Breguet Marine musical alarm 5547 in white gold version. You are right, it's the lifetime investment which is good enough to pass to the next generation. Great job, Alex.
Thanks for your kind feedback! I love your comment! Buying a watch should always be seen as a longterm investment… and this is not always the case today since more and more see watches only as a financial investment. A mechanical wristwatch though is a piece of art that mirrors all the knowledge that was transferred from one generation of watchmakers to the next… Enjoy your ticking beauties and I wish you that they will always display happy seconds, minutes and hours…
It’s a piece of art 😊😊😊
Watchmaking at that level is ART!!! 😉
Amazing! A Polaris Dive Watch Perpetual Calendar. I have the Polaris Memovox Alarm, and it definitely wears bigger than 42mm. I would imagine, this would have an even bigger wrist presence.
The size guarantees good readability of the indications...
Tried this model on yesterday amazing piece going to purchase this definitely 😁 the 18 carat Gold version
Thanks for sharing your experience with us! Is it available, or do you have to wait?
I saw this watch in person a week ago at a JLC boutique. It is stunning.
Perpetual calendars rarely have water resistance beyond 50m or even 30m. Both of which are barely suitable for light splashes from hand washing for example. For this watch to be 100m, makes it the perfect everyday watch.
Love your comment, thanks for sharing! Yes, this is the perfect luxury SUV for the wrist… 😉
I want both
🤣👍🏼
Great watch, exceptional, price of the steel version on rubber strap.
............Damn. And I've been saving up to get an Ultra Thin Perpetual one day. This damn thing costs another 10 grand.
Beautiful - I always think a perpetual calendar sports watch makes sense as it can be worn everyday, whereas perpetual dress watches either need constant resetting or to be kept wound. Obviously, to wear an incorrect perpetual is a crime against horology! I'll look forward to seeing these in the metal - 42mm gives me some concern, although I appreciate it enables clearer reading of the sub-registers.
Please share some thoughts with us once you tried it on your wrist...
What doesn't make sense is that it is only water-resistant to 10 ATM. This is more than enough for a sports watch, allowing for swimming/snorkelling, but not for diving....which would be fine if it didn't mean that the dive bezel and dedicated crown are totally redundant.
A perpetual calendar sports watch with a roaring bezel. Geesus.
Beautiful watch. I only hope they improved their QC, because i have Polaris Chronograph and after only 2 years i hade to send it to the JLC in Switzerland for a repair. Cal 751H is flawed and they know that in JLC. Pinion and fork pallet positioned under the rotor have a tendency to brake, or better to say teeth of the pinion and tips of the pallet grind incredibly fast. This is (for a 12 500 EUR watch) unacceptable.
Great review as always! What would you choose steel or rose gold and why??
Steel! I don't wear any red/yellow gold at all. To flashy for me at least...
Gorgeous! Is this all JLC are releasing/announcing in terms of "normal retail" watches at watches and wonder? Their high-mech watches are superb but nobody buys them. Would be quite disappointing if they do just announce one new reference.
No, there are quite a few new pieces outside the high mech astronomical pieces.
Compare to others it's a bargain ! Such a master piece that too dive..wow
If you seriously compare what you get every JLC watch is a very good deal!!!
@@WatchAdvisor I totally agree 👍
From what I understand it is water resistant to 10 ATM. That is ok for swimming, but not for diving.... Lovely watch, somewhat useless dive bezel and dedicated crown.
@@ivanharlokin Who would seriously want to dive with a perpetual calendar????
@@WatchAdvisor Likely, nobody. But why make a perpetual calendar with a dive bezel, and dedicated dive bezel crown, if it cannot ever be used as such???? It is an incongruous design concept.
Ohh now that is a handsome looking thing ! (In rubber at least - my personal strap fetish)
Good size, perfect readability...
@@WatchAdvisor at the price I shall have to wait a few years for a second hand one, but just pleased to see a modern JLC that one can lust after ! I find myself stuck in the old master compressor days.
€25600? Is that the correct price? On the German site is says € 30336 excluding VAT. Did the price increase that much in the last months, or?
The prices we published weeks ago needed some adaptions since the Euro is so week in the moment… in steel 32.800 USD in gold 48.100 USD in the moment…
Hello, good great review.
What's the lug to lug dimension?
If you've forgotten the year, see a doctor or buy this beautiful watch
Well the purpose of having a full year indication has no medical background... the purpose is to show the entire calendar... date, day, month, year, leap year...
What is the weight of steel and gold watch ?
I don’t have these weights … Filmed the watch at the HQ where I couldn’t weigh them… when filming in our studio I always provide this information… Sorry! JLC will not provide me the information… Why? I don’t know 🤷🏼♂️
So it does not have a leap year indicator ?
Since the years are displayed in four digits there is no need for such.
I believe the leap years are pre-programmed based on the year displayed in the upper sub dial.
is the movement for their perpetual calendar from IWC?
No, JLC makes their own movements. This watch uses the JLC 868Q movement.
@Daniel Lien thank you. I asked because the way the perpetual calendar is displayed is very much like the IWC. Good that the watchmakers watchmaker does not itself have a watchmaker
JlC based movement with a Kurt Klaus QP module. I think this module may of been originally develop at IWC.
@@adnoh Good catch
@@daniellien6704 yeah but JLC makes movement for IWC
Have JLC got any more accessible new pieces out? This perpetual calendar and the ultra-high end pieces are obviously really nice, but I’d like to see something under 10k for us poors.
What is the diameter of your wrist? What about the width? Thank you in advance!
17 cm / 6,7 in
Imagine that the gold version is cheaper than a Daytona SS. 😅
Seriously. I’d take this in a heartbeat.
@@joshn.5625 so would i
A dateless ultra boring chronograph… pass…
I thought JLC uses an IWC movement for its perpetual calendars. This one is all in-house?
JLC definitely uses its own calibres …
JLC makes its own Kurt Klaus perpetual module now. They license it as far as I know. Hence the IWC uses the crown to adjust the perpetual calendar but JLC uses a pusher on the side.
The pusher on the side means - unlike the IWC - you are at lower risk of accidentally advancing the calendar too far.
Lug 2 Lug 48.8mm. Are you sure and Have you measured it?
Why do you doubt the number?
@@WatchAdvisor as my wrist is just 15.8 cm and I love this JCL timepiece. Tks
@@rockybui9598 I hear you, but the lug-to-lug distance is correct…
@@WatchAdvisor really tks
That is actually pretty good for a 42mm watch.
Nice watches. (But IMO they aren't quite as _cool_ as the Polaris tribute owned by Alexander🤠)
Well that one is something completely different… 😉
Strap should have came with a deployment clasp.
I love this watch. I want to buy it. Do I want to absorb the huge depreciation? No. I wish somehow JLC could fix that….
Watches aren't an investment. Buy it to keep it not with the vision to sell it down thr line
@@MrPanz3r watches are a pretty good investment actually. Steel sports rolex models, any patek sports model, any royal oak, hell even the stupid "limited edition" speedmasters have seen massive gains that you would have a nearly impossible time trying to get in traditional stocks or other assets. I remember 2-3 years ago steel daytonas were going for around $16-18k on the secondary market and people thought that was insane....now you're not finding one under $45k. IDK what you consider an investment but that sure as hell seems like a good one to me. You could find a 4500v overseas in the low 20's not long ago. $65k is the average now. That is a 300% gain in a year or 2. You'd be hard pressed to get that lucky in crypto. Rich people are absolutely treating watches as an investment.
@@Dylan-xj8tb all true but that can’t be the lodestar for every watch purchase. You end up with a soulless collection that represents what the market loves, but not necessarily what you love.
I’ve been fortunate to have picked a few winners in terms of watch “investments” so now I’m enjoying splurging on a few pieces that represent truly ingenious watchmaking, residuals be damned. I think JLC is a great place to go for such pieces, especially if you will hold the pieces for a while.
@@Dylan-xj8tband 18 months later all those watches value dropped very badly, those were no investments only speculation
Lackluster release, in my opinion. This looks very similar to their IWC perpetual calendars.
If you mean the Portugieser Perpetual, that watch is 15mm thick with 30 meters of water resistance. The Big Pilot Perpetual is even thicker at 16mm. This watch is 11.9mm thick with 100 meters of water resistance. Aside from power reserve, this watch beats IWC handily.
I agree they should have followed Rolex by releasing an upside down version or perhaps paint the dial some grotesque color, possibly glueing precious jewels to the bezel. That would really push the limits of horology.
@@sanghoonlee5171 Yes, of course. JLC's base movement is thinner. I just don't like the slab-sided case design of the Polaris. The JLC ultra-thin perpetual calendar is a better timepiece. I'm not hating on anything, the Polaris perpetual calendar felt uninteresting and I'm only expressing my opinion on the release. :)
@@69opsman Ha ha, I get you. But Rolex is not just about Horology, Rolex comes with status and their designs stay the same, timeless and classic which can be boring to a ton of people. This is why I hate and love Rolex for what they do.
I was more into the recent Tudor and Omega releases, and GS Kodo was a stunner, an unexpected release this year. I also loved the new releases of the JLC Atmos clocks. :D
Its no IWC and that alone this enough. However, this watch ist just gorgeous!
I heard that if you a accidentally advance the year number beyond the current year, you’re in a world of hurt. It needs to be sent back to JLC to readjust back to the present calendar year. Very pricy mistake!
This is true! Also applies for all the IWC Perpetual Calendars…
OMG just noticed that the day and date change over at 3am (not midnight), see 2:40-2:50. I am not sure if this is an anomaly for this particular piece, but if not and it is what to expect from this movement, then I am sorry but it is unacceptable for a USD30,000 watch.
No, that's not an anomaly! The energy coming from the movement must be divided and used carefully to accomplish all tasks and to continue accuracy...
It's very beautiful for me the gold. But I think having to bring this in, in less than 78 years to be set is unacceptable!!!
bro you have to sent the watch for service every 10 - 12 years anyway. I dont really see a problem here :D
@@dnbbrattanius363 yes, thanks for your guidance.
Why can’t it be 40mm 😔
For better readability… size matters…
@@WatchAdvisor good answer