High precision service. Everything well done. An exquisite assembly in detail on the expansion and contraction surfaces. It transformed a Twin for juxtaposed juxtaposed into a parallel Juxtaposed Twin of "SPEED" as in Triumphs and Norton's.
From apprenticeship days, if I hit a bearing with a hammer, the back of my head would be hit with a hand the size of a shovel (he was a big bloke back then) and if I back chatted I would be launched though into the stores racking....
one of the best videos, most informative loved every minute, clean crankcases I could eat my diner off them. I like the new camera. keep em coming with a complete engine rebuild.
Nice to see you back as well. While I’ve known about the needle conversion for a long time, I’ve never seen one “in the flesh”. Quite clever really. Nice job on a proper fit up. Had BSA invested in a better right hand bearing set up early on, they might have been around a bit longer.
Same as yourself, this is the first time I got to play with one and it does not seem too bad. I am left wondering though, if it makes the engine more bulletproof, why is it in bits? what happened to the ball thrust, did it break up as I've heard rumour of happening? Why has it got odd case halves? Thanks for watching, more to come on timing side roller conversions in the near future, Ade.
I watched a fellow building four stroke airplane engines in New Zealand once, and between the crank case halves on the surface of one half, he put a continuous length of fine (cotton I think but it could have been oil resistant nylon) thread along with the gasket maker (which have improved a lot since these bikes were made) and that way oil leaks from the crank cases were completely avoided.
In regards to the crank end float shims.I was wondering why you put the shims all on one side verses splitting the difference and shim both side of the crank to keep the crank centered in the cases? Enjoying these vids.
Thanks for your thoughts Derek. With this engine strictly speaking the crank position is set and locked by the ball thrust bearing, the shimming really was not required more desired in case of any movement of say the outer needle roller in the cases and to get the drive roller in the right position in its track. The guy who will rebuild this engine has over 5 decades of experience in British bike engine work including a couple of decades racing classic, Battle of the twins and many others, it is something he will check if required before final assembly i'm sure, however, remember there will be much more than 0.030" of side play in the piston to small end float and big end to crank side float, so I would not be unduly concerned. Brilliant that you're paying attention though, many thanks, it's easy to miss something!
@@AGEngineering I love learning about these beautiful machines.I have a 1968 Triumph Bonnie in which I had for almost 30 years.I rebuilt everything at one time or another from the crank up.But that is the ONLY bike I have ever any experience with.Its great to see how similar yet totally different these machines can be.
without the bush and because there is no timing side oil seal, how is oil pressure now maintained for the big end shells, surely it can easily pass by the needle roller main bearing?
Nice video and good to see you back. Nice save on that really messed up engine. Take care. I noticed the gasket surfaces look pretty bad. Do you ever try to improve those? Like to see how that's done someday. Cheers
Thanks for the comments, appreciated. Gasket faces, problem is most of the time you can't take off much metal beyond dressing up high spots with a fine file and then using either a good sealant (Wellseal, Threebond, Dirko) and/or a good gasket. If there is anything too deeply scored then Devcon,JB weld etc as filler or ultimately weld up and resurface but that can be a lot of work. It's a thought for a video one day, thanks, Ade
High precision service. Everything well done. An exquisite assembly in detail on the expansion and contraction surfaces. It transformed a Twin for juxtaposed juxtaposed into a parallel Juxtaposed Twin of "SPEED" as in Triumphs and Norton's.
Thank you, I always try to use heating and cooling for bearing fitting when possible. Best wishes, Ade
Really enjoyed the video. I always warm and cool with bearings too. I don't like using force. Thanks, Dean in Oxfordshire.
From apprenticeship days, if I hit a bearing with a hammer, the back of my head would be hit with a hand the size of a shovel (he was a big bloke back then) and if I back chatted I would be launched though into the stores racking....
Great to see you back and hopefully I can pick up some tips for my projects 😄👍👍
It's always an honour if any of this backyard bodgery I post helps anyone, hope you projects go well, Ade
its nice to see you back hope you and your family are ok
one of the best videos, most informative loved every minute, clean crankcases I could eat my diner off them. I like the new camera. keep em coming with a complete engine rebuild.
Rob, as always, great to have you in the audience!
Gracias por la información, un trabajo excelente.
Y gracias por ver y comentar, los mejores deseos, Ade
Nice to see you back!
Thanks Jim
Nice to see you back as well. While I’ve known about the needle conversion for a long time, I’ve never seen one “in the flesh”. Quite clever really. Nice job on a proper fit up. Had BSA invested in a better right hand bearing set up early on, they might have been around a bit longer.
Same as yourself, this is the first time I got to play with one and it does not seem too bad. I am left wondering though, if it makes the engine more bulletproof, why is it in bits? what happened to the ball thrust, did it break up as I've heard rumour of happening? Why has it got odd case halves? Thanks for watching, more to come on timing side roller conversions in the near future, Ade.
Great stuff as usual thanks for taking the time to post
Good video, very helpful 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video.
Many thanks
I watched a fellow building four stroke airplane engines in New Zealand once, and between the crank case halves on the surface of one half, he put a continuous length of fine (cotton I think but it could have been oil resistant nylon) thread along with the gasket maker (which have improved a lot since these bikes were made) and that way oil leaks from the crank cases were completely avoided.
That's different, what was the cotton for if gasket maker (silicone?) was used? Thanks for sharing, Ade
Superb work, really great
In regards to the crank end float shims.I was wondering why you put the shims all on one side verses splitting the difference and shim both side of the crank to keep the crank centered in the cases? Enjoying these vids.
Thanks for your thoughts Derek. With this engine strictly speaking the crank position is set and locked by the ball thrust bearing, the shimming really was not required more desired in case of any movement of say the outer needle roller in the cases and to get the drive roller in the right position in its track. The guy who will rebuild this engine has over 5 decades of experience in British bike engine work including a couple of decades racing classic, Battle of the twins and many others, it is something he will check if required before final assembly i'm sure, however, remember there will be much more than 0.030" of side play in the piston to small end float and big end to crank side float, so I would not be unduly concerned. Brilliant that you're paying attention though, many thanks, it's easy to miss something!
@@AGEngineering I love learning about these beautiful machines.I have a 1968 Triumph Bonnie in which I had for almost 30 years.I rebuilt everything at one time or another from the crank up.But that is the ONLY bike I have ever any experience with.Its great to see how similar yet totally different these machines can be.
Interesting and informative, thank you
Hi, do you still do the BSA A10 needle roller conversions?
Only the one I'm still working on I'm afraid.
without the bush and because there is no timing side oil seal, how is oil pressure now maintained for the big end shells, surely it can easily pass by the needle roller main bearing?
Crankshaft end feed, this I will get to when time availability allows. Many thanks for watching.
@@AGEngineering amazing work
Nice video and good to see you back. Nice save on that really messed up engine. Take care. I noticed the gasket surfaces look pretty bad. Do you ever try to improve those? Like to see how that's done someday. Cheers
Thanks for the comments, appreciated. Gasket faces, problem is most of the time you can't take off much metal beyond dressing up high spots with a fine file and then using either a good sealant (Wellseal, Threebond, Dirko) and/or a good gasket. If there is anything too deeply scored then Devcon,JB weld etc as filler or ultimately weld up and resurface but that can be a lot of work. It's a thought for a video one day, thanks, Ade
Shouldn't you evenly space the crankshaft shims on each side of the crankshaft to try to centralize the crankshaft?
The guy who will complete this engine build will look at this I'm sure should it be necessary, all the best, Ade
Where do you buy that conversion kit
Unfortunately it's not a kit, it's a one off,the bearing is available as described in the series, many thanks for watching and commenting
Top notch
Many thanks, we do try , kind regards, Ade