I'm dumb enough to not get 95% of the technical stuff but your presentation was so clean it kept me intrigued the whole way through. So glad I was here to see you grow little by little.
Lmao took the words out of my mouth. You helped a dumbass be less dumb homie thank you for your knowledge you probably paid for In college and gave to an idiot who should've done the same 😂😂
As a suspension engineer I suggest adding caster to the front wheels for extra front end stability. Right now everything is centered which is not the best for high speeds. Great video tho. that RC is a beast.
I am not a suspension engineer, but I guess, that this suspention is just making things worse. The point of having a suspention is to dampen oscilations. The car shouldn't jump when you drop it. It's better to switch to off-the-shelf rc shocks
0:32 I thought this too at first but the KV rating of a motor doesn’t mean kilovolt. The KV is actually the rpm needed to produce 1 volt of back emf, so a 3800 KV motor will need 3800 rpm to produce 1 volt or back emf. It also dictates how fast the motor can go, since an ideal motors max speed is reached when the back emf equals the input voltage and the motor will use no power, but due to non ideal conditions due to friction and other factors the back emf doesn’t reach the input voltage so it always uses at least a small amount of current. When you add a load to a motor it slows down the motor and that in turn leads to a drop in the back emf, which means the voltage across the motor increases and hence it uses more current. In a stall condition the motor isn’t spinning so isn’t producing any back emf and hence the motor winding has the full voltage across it, this causes a very high current, in DC motors you are essentially taking the inductor which is the motor windings and just turning it into a resistor since with no changing currents the inductor has no resistance.
You can try testing with herringbone gears to get rid of the axial force. These are basically two opposing helical gears put together where each half counter acts the axial forces from the other half.
Or, even easier, just use two helical gears, put side by side with opposite axial force directions. Heringbone gears are a little bit difficult to manufacture conventionaly, with a printer it is easier, but simply mirror the first gear makes it even more simple.
i was thinking of this or he could use a belt to reduce the stress on his gears but then he would have as precise control of his velocity (this could mitigated with a PID or something similar but thats too much work and that over complicates things). for me, his biggest error was placing all the stress into a small gear, if he had placed two 2:1 gears the stress would be reduces enough ( i believe, i dont remember that class that well)
The reason the axle was printed lying down on the bed and with a flat spot is so the extruded lines go right down the length of the part. The individual extruded lines are stronger than the layer adhesion, when you oriented it vertically the only thing holding it together was the layer adhesion. A better option if possible would be to print the axle in two halves, both lying flat on the bed and combining to make a cylindrical shaft. Or you could just flatten the other side of the shaft to balance it.
You can print double helix gears which is just two opposite angle helical gears side by side, but printed as one piece. They self-center which is nice and you lose less energy. They also have a nice benefit of being a little quieter than other gears.
As a solution to the helical gear issue, you can try doing a double helical gear or herringbone gear. ABS would also be a better material for gears for the higher melting temp.
half your problem is the material you are printing with. You need a stronger polymer. In the RC car biz, the gears are steel and a plastic material. Shocks are, most of the time, aluminum with rubber o-rings to seal and hold things together. you have a super cool idea here! Congrats on making it work! Some refinement, and you are set!
8:43 bc of 3d printing removing all the holes should make it stronger and abt triangles, yes they are stronger but only if the corners and bolted together and not one piece
Double helical gears are a great option for 3d printed gears. Reorienting the fan could allow you to use the cooling system as a down force generator. Active down force like that will be super useful for sustainable high speeds because of the scaling problems of aero. If it always crashes the model could end up being overbuilt. I really hope this helps. No matter what I'm loving this project man. Good luck.
You can avoid the radial force by using herringbone gears. It's just two mirrored helical gears that either touch in the middle (herringbone) or don't (double helix).
I'm surprised you didn't use double helical gears for the motor. They get rid of the axial force issue that helical gears introduce and are still easy to 3D print. If the gear generator doesn't happen to have an option for those, just mirror one half-as-thick helical gear back to back. And as the other guy suggested: create an enclosure for them while at that, so you can put grease on them and have it not be thrown into orbit after 5 seconds. Just grease without an enclosure will do basically nothing, as it will just be flung out the second you throttle up. Unless you're using graphite powder, that might be sufficient in a thin layer that could stick around, literally. Backseat engineering aside: a very impressive project you got there 👍
At zero load the motor spins at 100% rpm potential. At 50% load it spins at 50% percent rpm. It is a inverse linear relationship. For motors like this you do not want them loaded more than 30% at top speed (for multiple minutes of high speed driving). Should be easy to figure out, measure the zero load RPM and you can do the math on MPH to RPM to see what the load is. Also, are you going to add suspension on the rear axle? I’d recommend looking at the old school classic RC10L chassis, which had a solid rear axle and was able to do some suspension on it.
5:26 , I'm very curious to know how you made this animation because it looks really well and amazing. I want to do something similar for my school projects. And finally, I want to congratulate you on the quality of your videos, personally, I appreciate every detail, every post-production effect in your videos. My respects, and keep it up.
I just found your channel and i must say. You have great editing skills for the size of channel. I have been searching for 3d printed rc car content for a while and this video makes me want to just start from scratch and make my own. I will aay tho. I would make an enclosed gearbox that can hold onto grease in order to reach high speeds without eating through gears.
Triangles are used because of old technological processes. Because all that structures made of standard straight items like pipes, H-beams etc. 3D printing allows you to make hollow shapes and get better mass/weight characteristics.
I thought about using herringbone gears, but the larger contact surface area of those gears causes more friction and therefore reduce the output rpm. They are usually used for high torque applications as far as I know Regardless, I should have tested herringbone gears to see how it actually performed
there is heatsinks that you can slide or clip onto motors for electric RC cars ! ... the shunkyness the of critical parts ... is it due to printing resolution or where you worried about stability ?
the front suspension looks like its under too much preload causing it to have a trampoline like bouncing effect. You don't want to compress the springs much when putting the struts together.
@@jinanprojects that is commonly a sign of not using a high enough temperature or having too much cooling, it happens because the current layer doesn’t melt into the layer below it properly, you should try less cooling and a higher temperature. Ideally for filaments like nylon you want an enclosure too, to help reduce cooling more and to keep the part hotter, so less likely to warp and better layer adhesion.
Helical gears are ideal for high torque transmission. Not for highspeed because of the larger contact area and converging or diverging force which makes it a lot less efficient than the standard helical gear or spur gear
Do you need parallel lipo batteries really? Because one battery also can burst higher current than that 540 type brushless needs. Paralleling only may for longer duration work.
I too made an rc car using 1000kv 2212 bldc drone a motor and 8mm steel rod used for 3d printers. I used a 3d printer 6mm belt and 2 gt2 pulleys for a belt d4ive with a 2:1 reduction. Having 3d printed rotating parts is a very bad idea. they snap at the slightest torque and cant bear loads.
Straight cut are better for torque capability and simplicity of manufacture for sure, plus have the benefit of no axial forces I agree. They're relatively limited in ratio range but if you have huge differences in gear size it's going to be a fun trade-off between strength/efficiency of a single pair, or using an intermediate set and accepting the efficiency hit to get a meshable set with less rotating mass etc. Drop them into a small bath casing and put a super light lube in there that just picks up the tips of the teeth and mists the lube without adding much drag.
instead of 4 springs in the front, try to make the two front wheels independent, and try one spring down the middle like an average GT12 class RC car or an F1 rc car. I'm just curious as to how it would do on your 3D printed model!
The two front wheels on his design are completely independent. I don't know why he has used two springs per side though. One issue is that he failed to use shock absorbers so the springs are completely undamped so the thing is basically a trampoline.
please tell me that u used grease for the gears and a fast car like that needs a gyro
I used Vaseline lol
Yea, there's a gyro setting built in the receiver which I later turned on. I should've mentioned it in the video
Shouldn't NEED a gyro, personally I don't like them, if my car is wobbling around then something is wrong.
@@jinanprojects don’t use grease it will end up as a grinding paste
A fast car needing a gyro?? No it needs to handle before fitting a gyro! Not just a Band-Aid fix
@@TwitchFastexactly people need to learn about handling dynamics and set up before wasting money or commenting causing someone else to waste it
I'm dumb enough to not get 95% of the technical stuff but your presentation was so clean it kept me intrigued the whole way through. So glad I was here to see you grow little by little.
Thanks man! It means a lot
@@jinanprojectsMy pleasure dude.
Lmao took the words out of my mouth. You helped a dumbass be less dumb homie thank you for your knowledge you probably paid for In college and gave to an idiot who should've done the same 😂😂
As a suspension engineer I suggest adding caster to the front wheels for extra front end stability. Right now everything is centered which is not the best for high speeds. Great video tho. that RC is a beast.
I am not a suspension engineer, but I guess, that this suspention is just making things worse. The point of having a suspention is to dampen oscilations. The car shouldn't jump when you drop it. It's better to switch to off-the-shelf rc shocks
0:32 I thought this too at first but the KV rating of a motor doesn’t mean kilovolt. The KV is actually the rpm needed to produce 1 volt of back emf, so a 3800 KV motor will need 3800 rpm to produce 1 volt or back emf. It also dictates how fast the motor can go, since an ideal motors max speed is reached when the back emf equals the input voltage and the motor will use no power, but due to non ideal conditions due to friction and other factors the back emf doesn’t reach the input voltage so it always uses at least a small amount of current.
When you add a load to a motor it slows down the motor and that in turn leads to a drop in the back emf, which means the voltage across the motor increases and hence it uses more current. In a stall condition the motor isn’t spinning so isn’t producing any back emf and hence the motor winding has the full voltage across it, this causes a very high current, in DC motors you are essentially taking the inductor which is the motor windings and just turning it into a resistor since with no changing currents the inductor has no resistance.
Lot of info here, thanks.
You can try testing with herringbone gears to get rid of the axial force. These are basically two opposing helical gears put together where each half counter acts the axial forces from the other half.
Yes, this.
Or, even easier, just use two helical gears, put side by side with opposite axial force directions. Heringbone gears are a little bit difficult to manufacture conventionaly, with a printer it is easier, but simply mirror the first gear makes it even more simple.
They also reduce sound
i was thinking of this or he could use a belt to reduce the stress on his gears but then he would have as precise control of his velocity (this could mitigated with a PID or something similar but thats too much work and that over complicates things). for me, his biggest error was placing all the stress into a small gear, if he had placed two 2:1 gears the stress would be reduces enough ( i believe, i dont remember that class that well)
65.98Kph. You’re welcome, metric system users.
Thank you our lord
@@TBprintfarm 😂
It is a superior system and I’m from the USA
Users of the Correct method yes
@@beastfte2129common semse is you know.... common
It's funny. I just learned about double wishbone suspension systems yesterday, and here you are designing one. I really liked your visual demo.
Oh finally a new video I've been waiting for so long
The reason the axle was printed lying down on the bed and with a flat spot is so the extruded lines go right down the length of the part. The individual extruded lines are stronger than the layer adhesion, when you oriented it vertically the only thing holding it together was the layer adhesion.
A better option if possible would be to print the axle in two halves, both lying flat on the bed and combining to make a cylindrical shaft. Or you could just flatten the other side of the shaft to balance it.
You can print double helix gears which is just two opposite angle helical gears side by side, but printed as one piece. They self-center which is nice and you lose less energy. They also have a nice benefit of being a little quieter than other gears.
As a solution to the helical gear issue, you can try doing a double helical gear or herringbone gear. ABS would also be a better material for gears for the higher melting temp.
half your problem is the material you are printing with. You need a stronger polymer. In the RC car biz, the gears are steel and a plastic material. Shocks are, most of the time, aluminum with rubber o-rings to seal and hold things together.
you have a super cool idea here! Congrats on making it work! Some refinement, and you are set!
8:43 bc of 3d printing removing all the holes should make it stronger and abt triangles, yes they are stronger but only if the corners and bolted together and not one piece
This was a great learning experience for me, as a viewer.!
appreciate the help with cad along with the video, subbed! Great vid man
Very clever that u put engineers thought and fix problem along the way. If you had all the parts drawing i like to get and make 1 from u. Thanks
This was a nice video to watch, lots of useful information too!
best intro i've ever seen
Woah thank you! I love learning and being entertained. nice video
Good!! Job! Man! it looks very good. all the work you did is very hard to do without proper math and material...very cool!
Double helical gears are a great option for 3d printed gears. Reorienting the fan could allow you to use the cooling system as a down force generator. Active down force like that will be super useful for sustainable high speeds because of the scaling problems of aero. If it always crashes the model could end up being overbuilt. I really hope this helps. No matter what I'm loving this project man. Good luck.
For a practical example of Generated down force at full scale, look at the Redbull X201X series of concept racers.
If it helps they are also called herringbone gears
@@Sun0faBeach1i was thinking the same
Cooling fan downforce on a 40+mph car 😂
The herringbone gear was a Citroen design very strong and eliminates side thrust
You can avoid the radial force by using herringbone gears. It's just two mirrored helical gears that either touch in the middle (herringbone) or don't (double helix).
awesome. one input: the dampers should be oil filled as they don't make the car so jumpy.
I like the colour scheme you might consider changing the rear fan to a pull configuration to add active down force
if you want more stabe suspension for high speed you can do f1 style suspension, then you can make wishbones instead of struts.
what a great engineer
I'm surprised you didn't use double helical gears for the motor. They get rid of the axial force issue that helical gears introduce and are still easy to 3D print.
If the gear generator doesn't happen to have an option for those, just mirror one half-as-thick helical gear back to back.
And as the other guy suggested: create an enclosure for them while at that, so you can put grease on them and have it not be thrown into orbit after 5 seconds.
Just grease without an enclosure will do basically nothing, as it will just be flung out the second you throttle up.
Unless you're using graphite powder, that might be sufficient in a thin layer that could stick around, literally.
Backseat engineering aside: a very impressive project you got there 👍
Herringbone gears is what you're describing.
@@greggeshelman double helical/herringbone are synonymous, yes.
"there you go, you're done" at 3:00 cracked me up
Maybe look at herringbone gears? So side thrust of gear pair going to be balanced.
At zero load the motor spins at 100% rpm potential. At 50% load it spins at 50% percent rpm. It is a inverse linear relationship.
For motors like this you do not want them loaded more than 30% at top speed (for multiple minutes of high speed driving). Should be easy to figure out, measure the zero load RPM and you can do the math on MPH to RPM to see what the load is.
Also, are you going to add suspension on the rear axle? I’d recommend looking at the old school classic RC10L chassis, which had a solid rear axle and was able to do some suspension on it.
Incredible. Well done! Thank you for sharing, great video.
Awesome video! You should consider printing in ABS. It’s it’s just hard to compete with the durability.
Really nice video! Good job
Those first 3sec triggered my PTSD. That is somewhat like how I totalled my 1/16 RC car.
5:26 , I'm very curious to know how you made this animation because it looks really well and amazing. I want to do something similar for my school projects. And finally, I want to congratulate you on the quality of your videos, personally, I appreciate every detail, every post-production effect in your videos. My respects, and keep it up.
most likely build in to the cad software, in his case solidworks
Why didn't you jsed that suspension that's used in Formula cars. With a horizontally orientated shock absorber
I just found your channel and i must say. You have great editing skills for the size of channel. I have been searching for 3d printed rc car content for a while and this video makes me want to just start from scratch and make my own. I will aay tho. I would make an enclosed gearbox that can hold onto grease in order to reach high speeds without eating through gears.
u could use the gears as a fan if u print blades in the inner part of them
Triangles are used because of old technological processes. Because all that structures made of standard straight items like pipes, H-beams etc. 3D printing allows you to make hollow shapes and get better mass/weight characteristics.
you can use helical gears but you need to do double one pointing in one pointing out. think Herringbone.
I thought about using herringbone gears, but the larger contact surface area of those gears causes more friction and therefore reduce the output rpm. They are usually used for high torque applications as far as I know
Regardless, I should have tested herringbone gears to see how it actually performed
You can get rid of axical force on helical gears with herringbone gear. It basically is a double helical gear so the forces cancel out.
there is heatsinks that you can slide or clip onto motors for electric RC cars ! ... the shunkyness the of critical parts ... is it due to printing resolution or where you worried about stability ?
try using herringbone gear and timming belt and pulley as well
This was awesome! Great job on jour design, it can only go up from there. I'd like to see what you come up with next. Subbed for sure!
9:00 I believe that's called bump steer. Is that right? Is that right? Do you know if your solution fixes that problem?
bro... how or where, you get that library for the gears in solidworks... so awesome (1:51
)
Did he ever upgrade to a double bevel setup to negate axial load?
If you put suspension on the back axle, you don't need it in the front, just like on dragsters
3D Printed RC boat next please!
You can get a lot of stability with an aerodynamic design.
wow! Really great! Hi Jinan, I'm still waiting for you
Iam amazed by your solidworks skills. Where did you learn it.
From youtube, school, & people. Mostly youtube btw...
@@jinanprojects can you recommend me the channel?
the front suspension looks like its under too much preload causing it to have a trampoline like bouncing effect. You don't want to compress the springs much when putting the struts together.
Wow ive literally been working on this for a year bru i thought i was the only one struggling 😂
can you please put a link on how u made the base of this car please i need it already have all the parts i just need to 3d print the car model
That was nice! Good job!
Why dont you try to print in PETG or ABS? it will be less rigid but more durable in teory
I actually wanted to use nylon filament for the gears but the layers kept separating after printing for some reason...
@@jinanprojects that is commonly a sign of not using a high enough temperature or having too much cooling, it happens because the current layer doesn’t melt into the layer below it properly, you should try less cooling and a higher temperature. Ideally for filaments like nylon you want an enclosure too, to help reduce cooling more and to keep the part hotter, so less likely to warp and better layer adhesion.
Can't you make duel direction helical gears in solid works?
Helical gears are ideal for high torque transmission. Not for highspeed because of the larger contact area and converging or diverging force which makes it a lot less efficient than the standard helical gear or spur gear
@@jinanprojectsin rc racing we use straight cut gears. There is no need to be fancy.
what program have you used to project and simulate gears? 2:25
Idk if your ever gonna see this but you may want to design a body so the car is significantly more aero dynamic
Yea, maybe for the next iteration
@@jinanprojects your car seems to be somewhat unstable at high speeds so making a aerodynamic body that generates decent downforce will help you.
Awesome video!
Did you made some specifc configurations on your ender 3 v2 to get this smooth printing or you polished everything after?
Yea, I made a lot of modifications on my ender 3 v2. I'll probably make a video about it in the future
11:17 that rc car broke faster and harder than my hopes and dreams 😂😂😂
Lol 😂
Hey man can you provide us with the cad file for the car
It's in my Patreon
@@jinanprojectsbut it's asking money and me from India wants to make this to show to my school
3:44 Could you try v-shaped helical gears (herringbone gears) to cancel the axial force?
Do you need parallel lipo batteries really? Because one battery also can burst higher current than that 540 type brushless needs. Paralleling only may for longer duration work.
Excellent work
Did you never try to make the slanted gears chevron shaped? That would very easily fix that axial force problem.
What software do you use it to design the car
Solidworks
@@jinanprojects 👍🏻🙏🏼👏🏻
the explanations are great!
Nice 3d proget
You would need dual helical for making sure the gear not sliding one way or another.
Maybe a cool idea: a CVT gear
I too made an rc car using 1000kv 2212 bldc drone a motor and 8mm steel rod used for 3d printers.
I used a 3d printer 6mm belt and 2 gt2 pulleys for a belt d4ive with a 2:1 reduction.
Having 3d printed rotating parts is a very bad idea. they snap at the slightest torque and cant bear loads.
which resin you used for springs and tyres?
hi the tires what material you using ya?
front shock system need to design shorter travel and with damper, should have better on road handling. Rear missing shock design?
11:12 thank u 4 this
You should post this on the 3d printing subreddit and the RC car subreddit
what type batteries did u use
What software did you use to model the pieces and to make the animations throughout the video?
SolidWorks for all the CAD & animations
Fantastic!
Hello would it be possible to have the 3D files?
it's in my patreon
very impressive!!!
can i buy it sir?
Tell me, friend, what program will you use to design this?
SolidWorks
you would have tried double helical gears
Kv is not kila volt or is constant velocity
Which software are you using for making 3d parts
SolidWorks
@@jinanprojects Thanks although subscribed already and lot likes.
In race cars, straight cut gears are best. Same for RC cars.
Straight cut are better for torque capability and simplicity of manufacture for sure, plus have the benefit of no axial forces I agree. They're relatively limited in ratio range but if you have huge differences in gear size it's going to be a fun trade-off between strength/efficiency of a single pair, or using an intermediate set and accepting the efficiency hit to get a meshable set with less rotating mass etc. Drop them into a small bath casing and put a super light lube in there that just picks up the tips of the teeth and mists the lube without adding much drag.
How much did the parts cost without the 3d printed parts?
Amazing.
instead of 4 springs in the front, try to make the two front wheels independent, and try one spring down the middle like an average GT12 class RC car or an F1 rc car. I'm just curious as to how it would do on your 3D printed model!
The two front wheels on his design are completely independent. I don't know why he has used two springs per side though. One issue is that he failed to use shock absorbers so the springs are completely undamped so the thing is basically a trampoline.
@@samharper242 he used two per wheel because one spring wasn't strong enough to hold the weight
what if using lego gears, but other material?
Impressive
Cool model. Some parts must be metal due to operating conditions, e.g. heat. Bumpers and wider tires would also be useful.
Nice Bro ... i just subscribed your channel
U could used tpu it's a lot stranger cool video
I'm looking into buying a 3d printer here over in the uk
Print the gears with nylon filament, then they should also not melt
What software did you use?
SolidWorks
really like it though, a pretty nice project hat surely needs a lot of determination, btw what is traction 😂