You are inspiring your viewers to take even the smallest of steps on their projects. That new radiator is going to pop inside that blackened radiator support!
Enjoying every single video and looking forward to every post. I’m currently restoring my 66 mustang and going through the same process. Your motivating me to do a lot of work myself.
You will enjoy having the Pertronix ignition system. You can go 35 - 40 thousand miles between tune ups. I’ve had one in my 1965 Ford Mustang Fastback for 15 years and it’s been great! You are very modest about your skills!! You have an analytical approach to problem solving that will serve you well as you restore your car. It’s going to be great! Have fun with it! Nice job on the video as well.
Thank you so much, I appreciate it! Did you install an extra wire on your 66 from the ignition or the battery to keep a steady stream of 12v on your electronic ignition setup on you 65 fastback?
Try and re-use as much OEM parts as possible...... A lot of the aftermarket restoration parts are Chinese and not worth the cardboard they were shipped in.
Smart to go electronic ignition, and brakes are cake. I would suggest going dual bowl and front disc if it isn’t already - your call of course! Looks like fun!
for the frame below the core support, try using a leaf blower to get the stuff out of there. i couldn't get a vacuum in mine either but was able to blow out a lot of the dust and crap that had accumulated in there. I did the same for my cowl area to blow out leaves and junk in there and then a vacuum on the side vent areas from the cowl to get as much out of there as i could.
Thanks for the tip! I don't have a leaf blower so I used my air compressor and it worked like a charm! Now it's ready for some paint. Yeah the cowl is going to be the toughest part, there is a tone of stuff in mine, looks like a big mouse nest haha.
I have yet to take on my possble 65 Mustang Purchase and restoration. In addition to cars I am also into vacuum cleaners too. Mostly vintage Kirby and Electrolux. They make a dryer cleaning tool "Lint Lizard" that is a smaller tube/hose for getting into the lint trap comparts as well as the PC vacuum tools with little hoses.
@@VanHoutenBuilds I love the strips, you may want to add the strip kit that goes along the side close to the rockers. If the top is looking cool you have to make the sides just as cool!!
Glad you got it running. I always with electronic conversion like pertronix. Get a fan shroud too. I found one at summit racing that works with the aluminum radiator that I bought for my 66. Replacement parts like front fenders are cheap enough. I even have an original 65 fender I could let you have for 80.00.
Ok, yeah I'll invest in a fan shroud! If I can't get this fender to play nice when it comes to the rest of the bodywork, then I'll definitely reach out to you about that fender! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! The nylon wheel is an 80 grit wheel, but honestly it's not like a rough 80 grit sandpaper. It leaves the surface a bit more smooth and doesn't leave deep scratches like sand paper. Otherwise if I'm using the orbital sander I'll be using 120.
FYI ...your electronic points need solid 12v, the stock wire from your ignition switch travels to the firewall via a special resistor wire that drops the voltage. The points will work but will eventually die if you don't feed them 12v. You need to wire directly to the ignition switch w new wire or use a relay to get 12v straight from battery. Also, once u get 12v don't leave the ignition on for long periods of time because the 12v will burn your petronix unit up. Usually 99% of ignition problems are caused by mechanical points/condenser...so good on you replacing those. Good luck
Look up Rocketman’s Classic Cougar Innovations he has relay kits for your headlights and ignition etc. that are plug and play. Very easy to install. They work on all Fords not just Cougars.
@@VanHoutenBuilds You would think that would be covered in the instructions.... I have a clinet at work that suggested that I do that to my 69 F100, still need to, but he warned me up front about changing the wiring. He also says they start up way faster. I belive you can burn up your coil even with point and condensor by leaving the key in the run position too long. Many people have done that working on the radio or other system with the key in run over "acc"
@@VanHoutenBuilds I also have some videos. More to document for my son than try to monetize. I picked up the Cobra body and frame for $6500. Then put the power train in from a 1998 Mustang. So the cost over three years is only 15K. But it’s a start and drive. Need to finish gauges, interior and paint. Those videos are coming with all the 66 mustang videos starting next month.
You are inspiring your viewers to take even the smallest of steps on their projects. That new radiator is going to pop inside that blackened radiator support!
Great job but i've never heard anyone say 'growtee' before lol
Keep pushing on. - REO Speedwagon
Enjoying every single video and looking forward to every post. I’m currently restoring my 66 mustang and going through the same process. Your motivating me to do a lot of work myself.
That's awesome! Glad I can help motivate haha!
He’s restoring the 65, you doing the 66, and I’m doing the 67 convertible. One day we might have to meet and post a picture of them together 😊
@@solo2361 That would be sweet.
You will enjoy having the Pertronix ignition system. You can go 35 - 40 thousand miles between tune ups. I’ve had one in my 1965 Ford Mustang Fastback for 15 years and it’s been great! You are very modest about your skills!! You have an analytical approach to problem solving that will serve you well as you restore your car. It’s going to be great! Have fun with it! Nice job on the video as well.
Thank you so much, I appreciate it! Did you install an extra wire on your 66 from the ignition or the battery to keep a steady stream of 12v on your electronic ignition setup on you 65 fastback?
Try and re-use as much OEM parts as possible...... A lot of the aftermarket restoration parts are Chinese and not worth the cardboard they were shipped in.
Love this series!
Smart to go electronic ignition, and brakes are cake. I would suggest going dual bowl and front disc if it isn’t already - your call of course! Looks like fun!
Thanks! Yeah I'm definitely planning on going with a dual bowl and front disc!
Looking good. Keep it up.
Looking Great Man!
Thanks! Can't wait to see what you do with your 66!
Nice videos so far, good luck with the rest of your restoration. I'll be watching.
Thank you! I really appreciate the support!
for the frame below the core support, try using a leaf blower to get the stuff out of there. i couldn't get a vacuum in mine either but was able to blow out a lot of the dust and crap that had accumulated in there. I did the same for my cowl area to blow out leaves and junk in there and then a vacuum on the side vent areas from the cowl to get as much out of there as i could.
Thanks for the tip! I don't have a leaf blower so I used my air compressor and it worked like a charm! Now it's ready for some paint. Yeah the cowl is going to be the toughest part, there is a tone of stuff in mine, looks like a big mouse nest haha.
I have yet to take on my possble 65 Mustang Purchase and restoration. In addition to cars I am also into vacuum cleaners too. Mostly vintage Kirby and Electrolux. They make a dryer cleaning tool "Lint Lizard" that is a smaller tube/hose for getting into the lint trap comparts as well as the PC vacuum tools with little hoses.
Nice work on the dents!
Thanks!
You have to love making progress on the Stang! What color will you be painting the body?
I'm going with a dark blue, maybe Caspian, or something similar. Also going to do white racing stripes!
@@VanHoutenBuilds I love the strips, you may want to add the strip kit that goes along the side close to the rockers. If the top is looking cool you have to make the sides just as cool!!
Glad you got it running. I always with electronic conversion like pertronix. Get a fan shroud too. I found one at summit racing that works with the aluminum radiator that I bought for my 66. Replacement parts like front fenders are cheap enough. I even have an original 65 fender I could let you have for 80.00.
Ok, yeah I'll invest in a fan shroud! If I can't get this fender to play nice when it comes to the rest of the bodywork, then I'll definitely reach out to you about that fender! Thanks!
Immediately thinking “Mortzke Flick” on the points.
Looking good bro
before the watching video, push the like!!
Commenting for the algorithm
Great video. What grit are you using to sand down the fenders?
Thanks for watching! The nylon wheel is an 80 grit wheel, but honestly it's not like a rough 80 grit sandpaper. It leaves the surface a bit more smooth and doesn't leave deep scratches like sand paper. Otherwise if I'm using the orbital sander I'll be using 120.
@@VanHoutenBuilds awesome thanks
Thanks I feel like I need an electronic Inightter
Do you have formal motor vehicle training?. I’m impressed by your scope of knowledge and general understanding.
No, I don't. I'm just learning as I go! Thanks for watching!
FYI ...your electronic points need solid 12v, the stock wire from your ignition switch travels to the firewall via a special resistor wire that drops the voltage. The points will work but will eventually die if you don't feed them 12v. You need to wire directly to the ignition switch w new wire or use a relay to get 12v straight from battery. Also, once u get 12v don't leave the ignition on for long periods of time because the 12v will burn your petronix unit up. Usually 99% of ignition problems are caused by mechanical points/condenser...so good on you replacing those. Good luck
Thank you so much for letting me know! Didn't know I need to run the extra wire, I'll get that added in. Thanks for watching the video!
Look up Rocketman’s Classic Cougar Innovations he has relay kits for your headlights and ignition etc. that are plug and play. Very easy to install. They work on all Fords not just Cougars.
@@springman1740 Will do, thank you!
@@VanHoutenBuilds You would think that would be covered in the instructions.... I have a clinet at work that suggested that I do that to my 69 F100, still need to, but he warned me up front about changing the wiring. He also says they start up way faster. I belive you can burn up your coil even with point and condensor by leaving the key in the run position too long. Many people have done that working on the radio or other system with the key in run over "acc"
Noticed your shirt. Has a Cobra on it. Funny because I have an AC Cobra, a 66 Mustang, and the best part. my last name is VanHolten.
No way, that's awesome!! Sounds like you've got the best of them. Yeah I would really love to be able to own a cobra one day!
@@VanHoutenBuilds I also have some videos. More to document for my son than try to monetize. I picked up the Cobra body and frame for $6500. Then put the power train in from a 1998 Mustang. So the cost over three years is only 15K. But it’s a start and drive. Need to finish gauges, interior and paint. Those videos are coming with all the 66 mustang videos starting next month.
@@thirdcargarage2951 That's great! I'd like to do something like that one day for my next project. Looking forward to seeing your videos!