Works for a 2013 if you are here wondering. Buy the OEM replacement part from your local dealer. Ask for wholesale pricing which is 15%-20%. At first I just asked if they price matched with online Honda dealers then they just offered a better price. I asked the lady at the parts counter how often people ask for a better price and she told me not very often. On another note…I also had to release the tension on the tension pulley by turning the crankshaft clockwise ever so slightly. The new auto tensioner will not just reinstall even with the pin still in place. The top crankshaft cover is the hardest part of the job.
Duuude! So thankful for this video. Our 2011 Honda Odyssey has been knocking bad and researched that it was the timing belt tensioner. Turning the crank shaft clockwise was the ticket to finishing the job. If anyone is reading this and wondering if they can do it themselves… you can! I have very little experience with vehicle repair but after this repair I fired up the van and it purred like a 🐈 Thanks again man.
I know this video is several years old now, but I just found it. Did this swap the other day and this video gave me the confidence to do the job right. Thanks for this. It saved me and my family quite a bit of money.
about to tackle this job tomorrow after reading everyones advice and watching the video twice I felt such a relief to not have to remove as much unnecessary parts 🙌
You saved me literally $1000. Thanks for posting this. Getting the bolts out was a pain, but ultimately got the tensioner replaced and the loud rattle/knocking was gone!
That’s smart way to replace the tensioner. Good to know in case my fails. I just installed all brand new Honda parts for the 100K service: timing belt tensioner, pump, belts, and pulleys. I had to recompress the tensioner several times to get the belt and cam gears lined up to TDC after getting the belt on and cranked around. It is really easy to recompress the tensioner with a C-Clamp, just go very slowly, take approx 30 to 45 seconds to compress it. Timing belt is a tough job and it was much harder than I anticipated.
Very helpful man! I just finished this job and the engine is quiet again. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, in the midst of a challenging task like this 🙏🏾
I replaced the timing belt tensioner on 2003 Honda Accord coupe V6 and it took me almost 4 hours to do it. If you are replacing just the belt tensioner is not needed to remove the crankshaft bolt. Thanks a lot for your video
For anyone preparing to do the job dont be afraid its very easy only issue i had was pulling the pin when i pulled it it fell into a timing cover fished it out with a magnet.
This video is a godsend. It definitely gave me the confidence to do it myself. The only thing I didn’t need was the ratchet on the pulley to release tension. My tensioner was so bad that it had zero tension on the belt and I was able to install it without no problem. Like others said, the pin is a pain in the neck. I pulled the pin from the top and it fell down, but visible. I was able to grab it with a magnet tie wrapped to a stick. Thanks again!
Very helpful, very on point, i did the job in about 1 hour, including cleaning, I do my mechanics, so I have some knowledge and some tools to do the job faster. I didn't need to move the crankshaft, looks like the motor stoped in good position for me, the belt was a little bit loose when I checked it to see if I needed to move the crankshaft. The 2 screws at the bottom of the top pulley cover, are easier to take out from underneath the car, together with the 2 that have to be taken out from the bottom cover. Thank you very much for sharing the info, and helping so much people.
I have an O5 Pilot with the same engine. Mine is loud on a cold start and then the sound goes away when the engine warms up. Would your engine do the same thing. I just had the timing belt replaced and I bet they skipped this part!
Thanks this helped me on my 14 Ody. Only advice I would add is maybe trimming part of the ring off to make pulling it with pliers easier. There's not a lot of room when the cover is still on and I had a hard time pulling the pin. Also make sure you have every length extension and every type of universal joint to reach all those timing belt cover bolts and plenty of spare plastic fasteners.
Many thanks Jo Daddy! Had my timing belt replaced 30k miles ago on my Pilot and the aftermarket timing belt tensioner failed recently. A $21 tensioner from ebay and this video saved me $$$. Took two hours. Had to turn the crank pulley about 45 degrees to get the new part in. Once I got some needle nose vise grips on the pin, it wiggled out pretty easily. I owe you a cold one!
Great advice/video. I did find that I had to turn the crankshaft more than I suspected to release enough tension. Thanks to this video I was able to get this done and save $900 in labor. Part was ordered online and cost me $51
Thanks for this wonderful idea! You saved me a lot of money and in the same time gives me a confidence, that the job was done right. I used the same trick with pulling the lower timing belt cover and hold it with a piece of wood during the time of the tensioner replacement. Everything went smooth as it can be. I owe you a drink of your choice!
The hydraulic tensioner presses on the tensioner pulley assembly which has a pivot point. If you remove the lower T-Belt cover, there is a hole for a M6x50 bolt to hold the tensioner pulley assembly in place while you replace the hydraulic tensioner. It's more work but is how this is done by the book.
Thanks for video, very helpfull. 15 Ody. Changed the tensioner in 1.5hours without rush. Super easy job, honestly. All 10mm bolts removing is not hard at all. 5 from top 3 from bottom, plus 2 for tensioner. Move fuse box away to get more room under the hood. Tensioner pin removed with my finger, no pliers, no pin lube. Good advice on spinning the wheel clockwise little bit to release the pressure. Dont worry about timing it wont skip. Used only basic hand tools. 10mm ratchet for all bolts and 19mm for the wheel (dont know exact name of it). tensioner $60 at autozone, 1.5hr job, scarry noise gone, $700-1000 saved. one day, i changed the alternator, thats was pain in the a$$. So this job is just a piece of cake.
Ha. I just replace my 2012 alternator and my timing belt is making a ticking noise (seems i'm not alone). Question: I removed my tensioner and it looks good. It is very hard to press the plunger back in, which makes me think it's in good shape. Any thoughts? Do you think my problem is something else? Should i go ahead and replace the tensioner?
I followed this video step by step on my 2013 odyssey ex-l, and didn’t have a problem. I just took my time and double checked as I went. The worst part this job was getting that pin out of the new tensioner. Great video, thank you.
@@glasser2819 before I put the new tensioner in, I bent the handle part of the pin a bit and tied some twine on it. Once I got the tensioner bolted in, I pulled on the twine and the pin came out. I recommend using a strong twine. The one I used almost snapped.
Jo Daddy, thanks for taking the time. The hint about moving the shaft back with the 19mm was a life saver! Took me, a mostly non-mechanic 2.5 hrs including cleanup to knock this out, which was still 30 minutes faster than the 3 hours the dealer was going to charge for the job!
"moving the shaft back" which way you turn? he said clockwise... but I think clockwise is how the motor turns. I need to do this job on my van pretty soon and want to make sure I do it right.
@Jo Daddy's Garage - Thank you so much for this video and you've got a new subscriber! This worked perfectly and took care of the noise. I have a 2007 ridgeline with 169k miles on it and the tensioner just started 'death rattling'. The belt and water pump have both been replaced about 50k miles back, so I didn't want to tear everything apart and do that. This was my first time doing anything bigger than brakes or oil, so I'm sharing some findings and tips below for anyone curious: Use a 1/4 inch palm wrench or thumb wrench and a socket extender so you can get into all of the really tight places. It's very difficult to turn a wrench in some areas and this will help TREMENDOUSLY. I used Husky brand 1/4 inch 10mm socket because it has a small external diameter which helped me get to bolt behind the crankshaft and the lower cover bolts easily. I marked my upper timing gear and belt at around the 11 or 12 o'clock position (I used a chalk-marker) to make sure it didn't slip. When I rotated the CRANKSHAFT to relieve tension, the timing gear rotated to the 1 or 2 o'clock position as the tension relieved. The marks were still lined up, which indicates no slippage. Note that after you have the new tensioner installed and ran the engine, the marks won't line up anymore, as the belt will have made several rotations around. I had to turn the bolt on the crankshaft about 45 degrees to relieve tension and install the new tensioner. The tensioner has to be installed at the same angle it was removed. You cannot install one bolt and 'swing' the other end into place, as there is not enough clearance. Pulling the pin is tough, but if you can pre-pull it and bend it down and around. Once I had the tensioner bolts in place and torqued tightly (actual socket wrench, not thumb-wrench for this part), I belt the hook on the hand grenade pin so that it was outside the area of the cover. This made it easy to pull the pin and not worry about anything snagging. When the new tensioner is installed and you've verified that everything works, make sure you examine the timing belt and belt cover before reinstalling. I had accidentally thrown a few flecks of wood from my scrap wooden pry-piece onto the belt area, so I blasted it with compressed air. The upper timing cover has a groove in it that fits over and onto the lower timing cover. You have to push these together before doing the lower bolts or you will not be able to reinstall them. I spent like an hour trying to figure out what the heck I did wrong until this was spotted. You might get a check engine light and a P2649 code from starting the engine while the vehicle is jacked up and the tire is off. This had to be reset on my ridgeline, even after everything was reinstalled. I also pulled a wire from its clip-mount, cleanly thankfully, while prying the cover off. Everything went back in to place and there are no codes showing, thankfully. If you have an old doormat or bathmat with a rubber bottom, you can set that over the wheel assembly while you're working to protect yourself from grease and grime. I've seen some people talking about the Dayco branded parts failing early. Supposedly Dayco addressed this by changing suppliers and the new units are expected to function for a full maintenance cycle... time will tell, but I will consider a spring-tensioner or authentic Honda if it fails early. Thank you again and I really appreciate this video and look forward to watching more of yours in the future.
Thanks so much for the video! I followed your instructions and the van now sounds great. I was worried about the timing getting thrown off from turning the crank pulley, but it was fine. I held the new part in place while I turned the crank slowly and could feel when the pressure released. The symptom was a loud rattle coming from the front passenger side. I thought it was coming from power steering at first. The repair took me about 3 hours because I am slow and my hands are too big to fit into tight spaces. The needle nose vice grip tool is a Godsend for removing the grenade pin. Even with that, it was a pain and I had to do a lot of twisting and praying to get it out. Thanks again for posting the repair vid. You're the best!
Thanks for sharing. I am able to change the timing belt tensioner on my car following your instructions and take me around 4 hours. I am very appreciated!
Omg we have a 2008 one as well, & am having same issues. thanks for sharing anything that has to do with the 2008 Honda Odyssey's I really appreciate it.
Also I have to say thank you for this video about the timing belt tensioner going bad that makes the car sound like it's knocking. Just replaced mine here on our 2006 Honda Pilot... the tensioner was the easiest part of the whole deal to replace. The worst was getting the shrouds removed and the timing belt cover bolts just to get to that point. Took me about 4 hours once I had to find some 12 point sockets and box wrenches to get the 10mm cover bolts out.
So i have to do this job today. I sholl was thinking that it was possible to do the tensioner without removing the crank pulley. Lol good to know someone else thinks like me. Work smarter not harder 💪🏽
Thank you for the video, I replaced the tensioner on an 07 odyssey just now, it no longer sounds like a rock in a tin can running. I didn't have to spin the crankshaft and I didn't fully remove the belt cover just loosened it, pulling the pin was the hardest part in my opinion, took about an hour from start to finish.
Jo Daddy thanks allot man I think this is the only video out here that shows how to replace the timing belt tensioner . Before watching this I had a loud knocking noise people kept saying it was a rod knock but I went this morning to buy a new hydraulic tensioner on my 2008 v6 Accord and installed it with the help of your video . And after 4 cuts on my knuckles I finally installed and fixed my issue thanks alot man . I will share this video on Facebook on the 8th gen Accord page for the ones that have the j series engine .
How’s everything holding up ??? bc I’m thinking that’s my problem with my 06 Honda Accord v6 with 117,000 on it only sound like that on start up once warm it’s quiet
Great video my mechanic want to charge me $1200 for timing belt water pump and solenoid,thanks to this video I order the part on eBay $16 dollars and installed myself
Thanks for this old but relevant video. I had the same engine problem in my 2006 pilot. Instructions were spot on. Had a tough time getting the grenade pin out (tie a sting on it so you don’t get it trapped in the housing. All done in 3 hours! Thanks again.
@@boostedej8291 old tensioner make a lot of NOISE WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. When it is super bad it makes very LOUD NOISE NON STOP HOT OR COLD. Buy an OEM part made by "Aisin" not cheap copies.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the tensioner on our 2011 Ody Touring Elite following your method without having to remove the crank pulley. The tensioner I replaced had just 6800 miles on it from when I replaced the timing belt with an AISIN kit from RockAuto and it had been ticking for awhile now. The new tensioner did not tick so I hope the start up noise will be reduced on this 277K mile Odyssey. I did not have to turn the engine to slip the new tensioner in place, but I did turn the crank after it was installed to make sure the cam timing marks were still aligned before I put the rear cover back on and they were. Man it is tight under there, but not having to deal with the crank pulley again was a relief for my 81 year old body and mind. Thanks again.
@@Jake-pq3iz When I did the AISIN kit timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement in 2021, the rear cam shaft was off one belt tooth before I removed it so I thought it best to check this time in case the tensioner had let the belt be too loose. I just wanted the peace of mind knowing all was still aligned correctly. Unfortunately I still have cold start noises with the new tensioner so it may be something else caused by my accidentally turning the crank 120 degrees with the timing sprocket key missing back in 21. It's still running OK and getting 24 MPG so whatever damage was done is not affecting it except that once in 100 degree temps on the freeway it got hot enough for the ECO to kick in and then it did not want to go back to 6 cylinder operation for quite awhile. I upped the resister to 100 ohms so hopefully that won't happen again.
@@Jake-pq3iz I did do the "short cut" as shown in this video. I had done the full blown belt replacement in 2021, but this time I only replaced the tensioner because I thought it was making noise. The only difference I found was that I did not have to turn the crank to put the new tensioner in place. Good luck with your tensioner - Hope it makes a difference for you.
Thank you. Your instructions were very helpful and saved me a ton of money. Worked perfectly. Hardest part was removing the pin. I'm using your video for power steering pump replacement next.
I had the same problem! After the fact, I guessed I trapped the lower part of the pin when I bolted the tensioner to the engine... making it dang near impossible to remove the pin. Vice Grips to the rescue!
The pin was tough until I stumbled on a good solution. Before installation the pin was pulled as far as possible without it disengaging the housing. I also bent ring over. The trick was to grab the wire with a 6" wire cutter rather than a pliers. Don't squeeze so tight as to cut the wire but it'll grab the wire easily and allow it to be wiggled out. Grab it close to the tensioner housing and then lever it out a bit. I made no progress until I grabbed the cutter and then it was out in about 20 seconds.
Jo Daddy, u da man! I just did this today on my 06 Odyssey and now she purrs like a kitten in a fish market. Job was easy except lots of 10mm bolts in hard to reach places. Keep a 10mm ratcheting wrench handy when the socket seems difficult. I did not totally remove the top plastic cover, just let the wire harness hold it in place. I did use the chunk of wood like you to pry the lower plastic cover out of the way. I did cut off the ring from the tensioner pin and used long nose pliers to pull the pin. I also had the VCT solenoid in the way of the tensioner on my 06 which yours did not. No big deal, just two more 10mm bolts and some oil drips and it is out of the way. Thanks for your help with the video.
Fantastic tutorial. My wife and I work for a non-profit and so DIY is how we're able to save money. Worked perfectly for our 06 Odyssey Touring. Turned crankshaft pulley clockwise approximately 20 degrees (using 5 degree increments) before tensioner pulley had enough slack for install of new unit. Also, once bolted down, used vice grips to lock and twist pin toward tensioner, took all of five seconds for pin to slide out. Thank you so much for posting, @JoDaddy'sGarage.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. Everything went well except I droped the pin into the lower cover 😬. So, after a few words and some finesse I was able to retrieve it. I would suggest tying a string or zip-tie to the pin handle to save some time and frustration.
Thank for the video. Worked perfectly. Like previously said, the hardest part was pulling the pin. I found it easiest to grab it with a pair of pliers as close to the tensioner as possible. Then twist the pliers around the pin toward the tensioner. Comes right out. Thanks again.
i know it has been a long time but when you twisted the pin out...do you remember if you did it from the top or bottom of the vehicle? also, do you mean grabbing the pin sideway and rolling over the pliers? Thank you.
Thanks for this video‼️My Odyssey sounds like sewing 🧵 machine now‼️FYI I took my needle nose pliers and grabbed the pulling pin and twisted it until it pulled out.
I am probably going to do this on my saturn vue tomorrow...i did not know it was 100% possible to do just the tensioner, until i found your video. Thank you so much! Edit: i ended up grabbing a tensioner and doing it today, because it really needed it and it's gonna be a lot colder outside tomorrow. I did exactly what you did, including the slack trick with the harmonic balancer. I can't thank you enough for this video. :)
Thanks for your video jo daddy..got mine done today..have a cpl of tips to add..took me 4 hrs start to finish & mainly bc i need a cpl tools to speed up the tedious stuff like either a palm wrench or better yet a a battery operated right angle impact driver to drive out & in all those hard to reach bolts..also a 12 pt socket so one is less than a click away from latching on to the bolts as well as at least a magnetic 10mm! I did not remove the upper cvr..removed 3 close to the port bolts & loosened the one upper bolt that holds both..i did not remove it though..to facilitate removing both plastic cvrs i pulled the pin to within an 1/8" then bent the rong of the pin around the round cylinder so that it laid flat to the piston..actually would b better to leave it about 3/16"ths away from the housing so its easier to grab w locking pliers..next the battle begins..took a good sz common screw driver to wedge in the port hole & wiggle in the new piston..not to hard to do & once in i lined up the 2 bolts & tightened..then w locking pliers grabbed the ring & pulled & wiggled..used the screwdriver to pry the bent pin from inside the port & after 3-5 minutes got the bad boy out..i also used hand clamps to hold the elt to the pulleys & idler so that it didn't come off..o & that 19mm post bolt from the top is the way to go..use a breaker bar from the top to release tention on the belt & remove it from the alternator so there is no tention on the old or new tensioner..then just push the bar back towards the windshield to give enough belt lag to replace the belt on the alternator..make sure the belt is lined up on all pulleys n tentioners..good luck & even though i could have done many other things for 4 hrs..the oem part on ebay was $35 & the 2 qoutes that others on here got for this job was $745-1000! Between this & the alternator replacement..a real all day bitch of a job..i saved a minimum of $1600!!! I'll get greasy for that! Pkus w what i saved i got a cpl necessary tools to purchase
Thanks for this vid, extremely helpful. I didn't have take the tension off the belt but everything else was as u described. FYI ppl don't buy the junk Dayco tensioner from advanced auto!
Buy OEM parts when dealing with any timing belt or timing belt component. Aisin makes the timing belt kit that is OEM on these Hondas. Do it once, do it right. Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump.
@@davidstreamo5005 Can't say I haven't had a bad experience with Aisin too! I replaced a radiator cap for a customer on an '08 Odyssey with an Aisin a couple of months ago and it started leaking in less than a week. Had to do the job all over again for free since it was a loyal customer and this time I used a Stant cap and the customer told me the leak hasn't returned. So in my 40 years of experience, I can say that quality control problems in parts are pretty much the same with all manufacturers, but if you personally find a brand you're happy with and the parts seem consistent then, by all means, stick with them. For me, I just use what works no matter who makes it.
Thanks for this excellent video man. I went and did this on 2012. It’s exactly the same. I did remove 2 bolts on tensioner and 6 more on the covers round the tensioner but leaving the cover on and raised it out just enough to pull the pin. And wheel well cover has a hole so you can stick 19mm socket through to turn crank pulley so I left it intact. Again thanks this helped me a bunch! I did use long nose pliers to roll the pull pin.
I have a 2012 about to do tensioner.. do you have to turn the crank to release tension. i thought the part should install then when you pull the pin it puts the tension back on....
Chris Sims The pressure is there when you’re trying to remove the two bolts holding the tensioner. You turn the crank to relief it when removing and installing the two bolts. Otherwise the pressure will push on the tensioner even when the pin is not pulled. Hope this helps.
turns out u don't need to take tension of the belt to risk timing. when u pull the pin don't pull...use a rolling motion by holding the pin sideway and then roll the plier over to the left onto the body of the tensioner. use a big plier head so the rolling is not as much. Have someone hold the cover open from the top and you at the bottom. Or just jam the cover open with a 2X4. Hope this will help someone!
Congratts . Im a Bit concerned about the tentioner bolt or tentioner its self flying out into the engine or worst into my Head . Any tips on them TWO bolts and how to avoid a mistake . Thanks. Going to wear protective eye glasses and helmet ofcourse . I want to laugh but this mater is so serious it wont let me.
@ Jo Daddy’s Garage Thanks for the easy to understand and succinct video! I’m in the process of diagnosing several things wrong w/ my wife’s ‘09 Odyssey now & believe this to be the “rattling culprit!?!” Also have some popping & creaking noises, when she turns far left/ right steering and believe those noises are coming from the CV Joints (which will need replacing as well). Thank you! Where’s “Angie??”
I had the full timing belt, water pump and all tensioners and pulleys done at 100k, but the tensioner failed only 29k miles later. Temps here in Cleveland were well below zero and the van sits outside so maybe that caused the failure. I pulled the old tensioner out and the pin was totally seated in! I needed to use plyers to pop it back out then it appeared to work fine, but replaced it with a new Autozone unit anyway.
Jim Svo Our Honda Pilot is making the same noise but we just got the timing belt replaced at a Honda dealer last January, that was a costed $1,200 and it’s having problems already but
@@MichaelSmith-gf2cy the dealer replaced minimum parts: belt only - Everything else is extra including doing the same job multiple times. Look up "OIL PUMP SEALS" for these Honda to be done as crankshaft and belt are off..! 👍
If you turn the crankshaft to gain clearance to install the actuator, but the bolt holes still dont line up? Turn it 45 degrees in total, it will more than line up. Wrap steel wire around the loop in the pin so that when you pull it out with a needle nose pliers by bracing against the actuator, the pin won't get lost inside the cover.
Super helpful video. Thanks for posting! About how much did you have to crank the camshaft pulley (the 19mm drive) to relieve tension on the timing belt before installing the new tensioner (90 degrees or more/less? ) thanks!
For me it took moving the camshaft pulley from about 6'oclock to a little past 7 o'clock to remove the tension. To remove the pin, which turned out to be the most difficult part for me, I locked down on the pin with small vise grips and the used a long pliers like a crowbar so i could pull up underneath the vise grips directly away from the pin hole. I would not have tried the whole thing without your video. thanks again!
turns out u don't need to take tension of the belt to risk timing. when u pull the pin don't pull...use a rolling motion by holding the pin sideway and then roll the plier over to the left onto the body of the tensioner. use a big plier head so the rolling is not as much. Have someone hold the cover open from the top and you at the bottom. Or just jam the cover open with a 2X4. Hope this will help someone!
The issue is. Once you lose tension on that belt. The cam gears can jump time...Then you are back to taking everything off. Too do it right the first time...As the belt has to replaced to... Read the owners manual.. As that belt breaks. That engine will be destroyed. As it's an interference engine...
Thank you for this - we had the timing set replaced last year, but it started clacking again exactly as it had before, I think the new tensioner failed or they did not replace the old one. Either way, we now have to replace the tensioner.
GP1138 I’m about to do mine in the next few days. I was told that certain companies had mad a faulty tensioner. I’m assume that’s what happened to you as, that’s what happened to me. Lasted about a year and now I have to replace the tensioner.
@@robinsonfernandezjr.8321 the only parts that are truely guaranteed to be good and last long are the OEM parts sold at the dealer, not the genuine look-alike copies on eBay for incredible prices or any of the rejects sold as Dorman etc... For timing components look at "AISIN kits" known to a supplier of Honda Corp.
Did you have to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise before starting it up ? I’m asking because you turned it clockwise to loosen the timing belt. Or did you just start it right up without adjusting anything ?
Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 odyssey and my tensioner is making that loud noise. Is the tensioner in the same place for this generation also?
How much did you have to move the crankshaft to get the timing belt to loosen? I’m about to do mine and I’m super nervous about effing up the timing on accident.
Doing this on my 2011 pilot tomorrow which has 184k on it, had the timing belt replaced at 100k. Is this any indication I am ready for another timing belt? I was hoping to hit 200k before paying for that again. And to clarify this can be done separately of the timing belt? Thanks so much. In advance too I thought it was PS pump then alternator but thanks to your video I found the tensioner to be covered in fluid so I think that’s it.
It can be done by itself. But it's likely you are very close to a replacement of the belt. I haven't replaced the belt before, so I can't say how hard it would be.
I replaced my timing belt and water pump at 113,000 and my van now has 149000 miles and the tensioner is knocking pretty good. Would moving the crank clockwise mess up timing or the belt slipping off? Or did you do that with the old tensioner on first?
In your opinion is it safe to drive a Honda 3.5 engine with a bad timing tensioner 32 miles? I’m looking to purchase a use Odyssey this weekend and change the whole timing belt components and water pump!
Can't say for sure. When you say bad, that can mean a lot of things. If it's still running, it would be your choice. Without seeing or hearing it, I can't say.
I was hoping the noise would stop. Still sounds not to happy. I have my fingers crossed for you. From the forums I read it could be a number of things some not so good. Helping my son in-law do a set of head gaskets on a Ford. I hate these newer Built to fail fords. My humble opinion. All my best. Bobby
So Jo Daddy turning the crank pulley affects the serpentine belt. How does that take the pressure off the timing belt? I can't get the tensioner back in because the timing belt pulley seems to have relaxed. By the way the pin on the hydraulic tensioner is recessed by the grenade pin so shouldn't it go in pretty easy?
Thought my engine was failing. This is my first Honda. So ...is there a chance that the belt could slip when releasing the tensioner? Or does it have enough tension even without the tensioner?
I have had the valves adjusted to OEM spec, now I've replaced the timing belt tensioner (huge thanks to Jo Daddy) and I've still got a single tick/knock/tapping sound. What's next?
I tried and tried after installing the new tensioner. But nothing I did would allow me to pull the pin. Not enough leverage or clearance to yank it out. Anyone have a tip?
I did it, I did it! I ended up holding tension on the spring with a C clamp - removing the pin and oiling it so it had half-a-chance of pulling out cleanly - then reinserting it back into the tensioner. After installing the tensioner (for a second time) I gave a mighty tug with pliers, and the pin finally pulled free. Thx for a great vid...
They say when replacing the tensioner..you should put a new belt on and a water pump..is that really necessary or is it just a way for them to get you to buy more parts?
I pulled my tensioner out and it looks good. It's real stiff and not easty to press in. I wonder if it's in good shape and my noise is something else? Any ideas?
If your vehichle has enough milage on it that the tensioner has failed then it's probably time to replace the timing belt and water pump as well...generally if it has more than 100,000 miles on it. It makes sense to take care of all those things at once while you've got the thing apart. You can order the OEM replacement kit from Amazon here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYTRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So it seems mine is failing, however I have documentation the belt and water pump were replaced at 110k. I bought the minivan used at 120k and it now has 155k. Safe to assume since this part wasn't replaced and is now failing that I can replace it and expect to be good until the next timing belt service (when I would replace all of it again)?
Авто/Мото
Works for a 2013 if you are here wondering. Buy the OEM replacement part from your local dealer. Ask for wholesale pricing which is 15%-20%. At first I just asked if they price matched with online Honda dealers then they just offered a better price. I asked the lady at the parts counter how often people ask for a better price and she told me not very often. On another note…I also had to release the tension on the tension pulley by turning the crankshaft clockwise ever so slightly. The new auto tensioner will not just reinstall even with the pin still in place. The top crankshaft cover is the hardest part of the job.
Duuude! So thankful for this video. Our 2011 Honda Odyssey has been knocking bad and researched that it was the timing belt tensioner.
Turning the crank shaft clockwise was the ticket to finishing the job.
If anyone is reading this and wondering if they can do it themselves… you can! I have very little experience with vehicle repair but after this repair I fired up the van and it purred like a 🐈
Thanks again man.
I know this video is several years old now, but I just found it. Did this swap the other day and this video gave me the confidence to do the job right. Thanks for this. It saved me and my family quite a bit of money.
For real. Labor at my local mechanic was $460. I did this in under 2 hours following the steps here. Much appreciated 👏🙏👊🏻
U did like this guy did n no problems?
about to tackle this job tomorrow after reading everyones advice and watching the video twice I felt such a relief to not have to remove as much unnecessary parts 🙌
yes, same here. Forget the crankshaft bolt and the water pump... great shortcut for now 👏
👍
You saved me literally $1000. Thanks for posting this. Getting the bolts out was a pain, but ultimately got the tensioner replaced and the loud rattle/knocking was gone!
You're welcome. I need a tip jar.
Thank u for the info!! Swapped mine out in about 2 hrs… thanks to ur vid!! Very much appreciate!! 😊
That’s smart way to replace the tensioner. Good to know in case my fails. I just installed all brand new Honda parts for the 100K service: timing belt tensioner, pump, belts, and pulleys. I had to recompress the tensioner several times to get the belt and cam gears lined up to TDC after getting the belt on and cranked around. It is really easy to recompress the tensioner with a C-Clamp, just go very slowly, take approx 30 to 45 seconds to compress it. Timing belt is a tough job and it was much harder than I anticipated.
I did the exact same thing on my wife's 2008 Honda pilot. followed the same steps. worked like a charm. took me about 2 hours to finish.
Very helpful man! I just finished this job and the engine is quiet again. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, in the midst of a challenging task like this 🙏🏾
This definitely worked for me today! It was on a 2014 Odyssey. There is a little less clearance than the Ridgeline in the video, but worked the same.
I replaced the timing belt tensioner on 2003 Honda Accord coupe V6 and it took me almost 4 hours to do it. If you are replacing just the belt tensioner is not needed to remove the crankshaft bolt. Thanks a lot for your video
Good night I'm in the process of doing same thing on accord 3.0 but it tighter than on oddesesy
For anyone preparing to do the job dont be afraid its very easy only issue i had was pulling the pin when i pulled it it fell into a timing cover fished it out with a magnet.
This video is a godsend. It definitely gave me the confidence to do it myself. The only thing I didn’t need was the ratchet on the pulley to release tension. My tensioner was so bad that it had zero tension on the belt and I was able to install it without no problem. Like others said, the pin is a pain in the neck. I pulled the pin from the top and it fell down, but visible. I was able to grab it with a magnet tie wrapped to a stick. Thanks again!
Very helpful, very on point, i did the job in about 1 hour, including cleaning, I do my mechanics, so I have some knowledge and some tools to do the job faster.
I didn't need to move the crankshaft, looks like the motor stoped in good position for me, the belt was a little bit loose when I checked it to see if I needed to move the crankshaft.
The 2 screws at the bottom of the top pulley cover, are easier to take out from underneath the car, together with the 2 that have to be taken out from the bottom cover.
Thank you very much for sharing the info, and helping so much people.
Thank you!
Perfect detailed video. I did it myself on 2015 Odyssey and it cost $103 in parts.
The rattling noise is gone on cold start.
I have an O5 Pilot with the same engine. Mine is loud on a cold start and then the sound goes away when the engine warms up. Would your engine do the same thing. I just had the timing belt replaced and I bet they skipped this part!
@@billybobbillybob7598 yes
Exactly
@@billybobbillybob7598 also see if the tensioner itself has oil on it ,Thats also a good indicator that its going bad
Thanks this helped me on my 14 Ody. Only advice I would add is maybe trimming part of the ring off to make pulling it with pliers easier. There's not a lot of room when the cover is still on and I had a hard time pulling the pin. Also make sure you have every length extension and every type of universal joint to reach all those timing belt cover bolts and plenty of spare plastic fasteners.
What he said. '12 oddy
Many thanks Jo Daddy! Had my timing belt replaced 30k miles ago on my Pilot and the aftermarket timing belt tensioner failed recently. A $21 tensioner from ebay and this video saved me $$$. Took two hours. Had to turn the crank pulley about 45 degrees to get the new part in. Once I got some needle nose vise grips on the pin, it wiggled out pretty easily. I owe you a cold one!
Great advice/video. I did find that I had to turn the crankshaft more than I suspected to release enough tension. Thanks to this video I was able to get this done and save $900 in labor. Part was ordered online and cost me $51
2014 Odyssey
Did you have to mark the pulley and put in back in the same spot? Or can you release tension and crank the vehicle and be fine? Thx
Thanks for this wonderful idea!
You saved me a lot of money and in the same time gives me a confidence, that the job was done right. I used the same trick with pulling the lower timing belt cover and hold it with a piece of wood during the time of the tensioner replacement. Everything went smooth as it can be. I owe you a drink of your choice!
The hydraulic tensioner presses on the tensioner pulley assembly which has a pivot point. If you remove the lower T-Belt cover, there is a hole for a M6x50 bolt to hold the tensioner pulley assembly in place while you replace the hydraulic tensioner. It's more work but is how this is done by the book.
The tip to turn the crankshaft pulley saved me thank you! Not my favorite thing to do fixing this but it saved me a lot of money!
Thanks for video, very helpfull.
15 Ody. Changed the tensioner in 1.5hours without rush. Super easy job, honestly. All 10mm bolts removing is not hard at all. 5 from top 3 from bottom, plus 2 for tensioner. Move fuse box away to get more room under the hood. Tensioner pin removed with my finger, no pliers, no pin lube. Good advice on spinning the wheel clockwise little bit to release the pressure. Dont worry about timing it wont skip.
Used only basic hand tools. 10mm ratchet for all bolts and 19mm for the wheel (dont know exact name of it).
tensioner $60 at autozone, 1.5hr job, scarry noise gone, $700-1000 saved.
one day, i changed the alternator, thats was pain in the a$$. So this job is just a piece of cake.
Ha. I just replace my 2012 alternator and my timing belt is making a ticking noise (seems i'm not alone). Question: I removed my tensioner and it looks good. It is very hard to press the plunger back in, which makes me think it's in good shape. Any thoughts? Do you think my problem is something else? Should i go ahead and replace the tensioner?
I followed this video step by step on my 2013 odyssey ex-l, and didn’t have a problem. I just took my time and double checked as I went. The worst part this job was getting that pin out of the new tensioner. Great video, thank you.
how did you manage to pull that pin from under the bottom cover??
@@glasser2819 before I put the new tensioner in, I bent the handle part of the pin a bit and tied some twine on it. Once I got the tensioner bolted in, I pulled on the twine and the pin came out. I recommend using a strong twine. The one I used almost snapped.
Jo Daddy, thanks for taking the time. The hint about moving the shaft back with the 19mm was a life saver! Took me, a mostly non-mechanic 2.5 hrs including cleanup to knock this out, which was still 30 minutes faster than the 3 hours the dealer was going to charge for the job!
"moving the shaft back" which way you turn? he said clockwise... but I think clockwise is how the motor turns. I need to do this job on my van pretty soon and want to make sure I do it right.
@Jo Daddy's Garage - Thank you so much for this video and you've got a new subscriber! This worked perfectly and took care of the noise. I have a 2007 ridgeline with 169k miles on it and the tensioner just started 'death rattling'. The belt and water pump have both been replaced about 50k miles back, so I didn't want to tear everything apart and do that. This was my first time doing anything bigger than brakes or oil, so I'm sharing some findings and tips below for anyone curious:
Use a 1/4 inch palm wrench or thumb wrench and a socket extender so you can get into all of the really tight places. It's very difficult to turn a wrench in some areas and this will help TREMENDOUSLY. I used Husky brand 1/4 inch 10mm socket because it has a small external diameter which helped me get to bolt behind the crankshaft and the lower cover bolts easily.
I marked my upper timing gear and belt at around the 11 or 12 o'clock position (I used a chalk-marker) to make sure it didn't slip. When I rotated the CRANKSHAFT to relieve tension, the timing gear rotated to the 1 or 2 o'clock position as the tension relieved. The marks were still lined up, which indicates no slippage. Note that after you have the new tensioner installed and ran the engine, the marks won't line up anymore, as the belt will have made several rotations around.
I had to turn the bolt on the crankshaft about 45 degrees to relieve tension and install the new tensioner. The tensioner has to be installed at the same angle it was removed. You cannot install one bolt and 'swing' the other end into place, as there is not enough clearance. Pulling the pin is tough, but if you can pre-pull it and bend it down and around. Once I had the tensioner bolts in place and torqued tightly (actual socket wrench, not thumb-wrench for this part), I belt the hook on the hand grenade pin so that it was outside the area of the cover. This made it easy to pull the pin and not worry about anything snagging.
When the new tensioner is installed and you've verified that everything works, make sure you examine the timing belt and belt cover before reinstalling. I had accidentally thrown a few flecks of wood from my scrap wooden pry-piece onto the belt area, so I blasted it with compressed air. The upper timing cover has a groove in it that fits over and onto the lower timing cover. You have to push these together before doing the lower bolts or you will not be able to reinstall them. I spent like an hour trying to figure out what the heck I did wrong until this was spotted.
You might get a check engine light and a P2649 code from starting the engine while the vehicle is jacked up and the tire is off. This had to be reset on my ridgeline, even after everything was reinstalled. I also pulled a wire from its clip-mount, cleanly thankfully, while prying the cover off. Everything went back in to place and there are no codes showing, thankfully.
If you have an old doormat or bathmat with a rubber bottom, you can set that over the wheel assembly while you're working to protect yourself from grease and grime. I've seen some people talking about the Dayco branded parts failing early. Supposedly Dayco addressed this by changing suppliers and the new units are expected to function for a full maintenance cycle... time will tell, but I will consider a spring-tensioner or authentic Honda if it fails early.
Thank you again and I really appreciate this video and look forward to watching more of yours in the future.
the OEM tensioner is made by "Aisin" - Save your time and stay away from Dayco, Dorman etc!!
Thanks so much for the video! I followed your instructions and the van now sounds great. I was worried about the timing getting thrown off from turning the crank pulley, but it was fine. I held the new part in place while I turned the crank slowly and could feel when the pressure released. The symptom was a loud rattle coming from the front passenger side. I thought it was coming from power steering at first. The repair took me about 3 hours because I am slow and my hands are too big to fit into tight spaces. The needle nose vice grip tool is a Godsend for removing the grenade pin. Even with that, it was a pain and I had to do a lot of twisting and praying to get it out. Thanks again for posting the repair vid. You're the best!
Thanks for sharing. I am able to change the timing belt tensioner on my car following your instructions and take me around 4 hours. I am very appreciated!
Omg we have a 2008 one as well, & am having same issues. thanks for sharing anything that has to do with the 2008 Honda Odyssey's I really appreciate it.
Also I have to say thank you for this video about the timing belt tensioner going bad that makes the car sound like it's knocking. Just replaced mine here on our 2006 Honda Pilot... the tensioner was the easiest part of the whole deal to replace. The worst was getting the shrouds removed and the timing belt cover bolts just to get to that point. Took me about 4 hours once I had to find some 12 point sockets and box wrenches to get the 10mm cover bolts out.
So i have to do this job today. I sholl was thinking that it was possible to do the tensioner without removing the crank pulley. Lol good to know someone else thinks like me. Work smarter not harder 💪🏽
Thank you for the video, I replaced the tensioner on an 07 odyssey just now, it no longer sounds like a rock in a tin can running. I didn't have to spin the crankshaft and I didn't fully remove the belt cover just loosened it, pulling the pin was the hardest part in my opinion, took about an hour from start to finish.
Jo Daddy thanks allot man I think this is the only video out here that shows how to replace the timing belt tensioner . Before watching this I had a loud knocking noise people kept saying it was a rod knock but I went this morning to buy a new hydraulic tensioner on my 2008 v6 Accord and installed it with the help of your video . And after 4 cuts on my knuckles I finally installed and fixed my issue thanks alot man . I will share this video on Facebook on the 8th gen Accord page for the ones that have the j series engine .
Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the comment and for sharing.
How’s everything holding up ???
bc I’m thinking that’s my problem with my 06 Honda Accord v6 with 117,000 on it only sound like that on start up once warm it’s quiet
Great video my mechanic want to charge me $1200 for timing belt water pump and solenoid,thanks to this video I order the part on eBay $16 dollars and installed myself
Thanks for this old but relevant video. I had the same engine problem in my 2006 pilot. Instructions were spot on. Had a tough time getting the grenade pin out (tie a sting on it so you don’t get it trapped in the housing. All done in 3 hours! Thanks again.
I know this is an old comment but how did you know you had to replace the tensioner on your pilot? What were youre symptoms?
@@boostedej8291 old tensioner make a lot of NOISE WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. When it is super bad it makes very LOUD NOISE NON STOP HOT OR COLD.
Buy an OEM part made by "Aisin" not cheap copies.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the tensioner on our 2011 Ody Touring Elite following your method without having to remove the crank pulley. The tensioner I replaced had just 6800 miles on it from when I replaced the timing belt with an AISIN kit from RockAuto and it had been ticking for awhile now. The new tensioner did not tick so I hope the start up noise will be reduced on this 277K mile Odyssey. I did not have to turn the engine to slip the new tensioner in place, but I did turn the crank after it was installed to make sure the cam timing marks were still aligned before I put the rear cover back on and they were. Man it is tight under there, but not having to deal with the crank pulley again was a relief for my 81 year old body and mind. Thanks again.
The crankshaft timing marks can’t be out of place if the timing belt wasn’t removed?
@@Jake-pq3iz When I did the AISIN kit timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement in 2021, the rear cam shaft was off one belt tooth before I removed it so I thought it best to check this time in case the tensioner had let the belt be too loose. I just wanted the peace of mind knowing all was still aligned correctly. Unfortunately I still have cold start noises with the new tensioner so it may be something else caused by my accidentally turning the crank 120 degrees with the timing sprocket key missing back in 21. It's still running OK and getting 24 MPG so whatever damage was done is not affecting it except that once in 100 degree temps on the freeway it got hot enough for the ECO to kick in and then it did not want to go back to 6 cylinder operation for quite awhile. I upped the resister to 100 ohms so hopefully that won't happen again.
@@philwarner6604 ok that makes since you were not doing the same shortcut as in the video. I’m getting ready to do it today.
@@Jake-pq3iz I did do the "short cut" as shown in this video. I had done the full blown belt replacement in 2021, but this time I only replaced the tensioner because I thought it was making noise. The only difference I found was that I did not have to turn the crank to put the new tensioner in place. Good luck with your tensioner - Hope it makes a difference for you.
@@philwarner6604 just finished replacing the auto tensioner about 2 hours ago. Hardest part was putting that camshaft cover back on.
Thank you. Your instructions were very helpful and saved me a ton of money. Worked perfectly. Hardest part was removing the pin. I'm using your video for power steering pump replacement next.
I had the same problem! After the fact, I guessed I trapped the lower part of the pin when I bolted the tensioner to the engine... making it dang near impossible to remove the pin. Vice Grips to the rescue!
The pin was tough until I stumbled on a good solution. Before installation the pin was pulled as far as possible without it disengaging the housing. I also bent ring over. The trick was to grab the wire with a 6" wire cutter rather than a pliers. Don't squeeze so tight as to cut the wire but it'll grab the wire easily and allow it to be wiggled out. Grab it close to the tensioner housing and then lever it out a bit. I made no progress until I grabbed the cutter and then it was out in about 20 seconds.
Jay great advice thanks. Im afraid to pull out the pin as much as it'll go though without setting it off.
I just want to say THANK YOU. I did it in 3 hours.
Jo Daddy, u da man! I just did this today on my 06 Odyssey and now she purrs like a kitten in a fish market. Job was easy except lots of 10mm bolts in hard to reach places. Keep a 10mm ratcheting wrench handy when the socket seems difficult. I did not totally remove the top plastic cover, just let the wire harness hold it in place. I did use the chunk of wood like you to pry the lower plastic cover out of the way. I did cut off the ring from the tensioner pin and used long nose pliers to pull the pin. I also had the VCT solenoid in the way of the tensioner on my 06 which yours did not. No big deal, just two more 10mm bolts and some oil drips and it is out of the way. Thanks for your help with the video.
Fantastic tutorial. My wife and I work for a non-profit and so DIY is how we're able to save money. Worked perfectly for our 06 Odyssey Touring. Turned crankshaft pulley clockwise approximately 20 degrees (using 5 degree increments) before tensioner pulley had enough slack for install of new unit. Also, once bolted down, used vice grips to lock and twist pin toward tensioner, took all of five seconds for pin to slide out. Thank you so much for posting, @JoDaddy'sGarage.
So if the pulley were a clock how much did you turn? I can't seem to get the timing pulley to retract enough to get the hydraulic TBT in.
John Stinnett From 6 o'clock to 8 o'clock.
@@johnstinnett6624 did you ever get this to work? How far did you have to turn crank to get new tensioner on?
Thanks for the detailed instructions. Everything went well except I droped the pin into the lower cover 😬. So, after a few words and some finesse I was able to retrieve it. I would suggest tying a string or zip-tie to the pin handle to save some time and frustration.
Thank for the video. Worked perfectly. Like previously said, the hardest part was pulling the pin. I found it easiest to grab it with a pair of pliers as close to the tensioner as possible. Then twist the pliers around the pin toward the tensioner. Comes right out. Thanks again.
i know it has been a long time but when you twisted the pin out...do you remember if you did it from the top or bottom of the vehicle? also, do you mean grabbing the pin sideway and rolling over the pliers? Thank you.
Thank you for the awesome video just got done with mine after watching your video a lot easier then I thought it was going to be thanks for sharing
Thanks for this video‼️My Odyssey sounds like sewing 🧵 machine now‼️FYI I took my needle nose pliers and grabbed the pulling pin and twisted it until it pulled out.
Thanks a lot just did this 2 hour job van SOUNDS quiet like a BABY you ROCK keep up the good work. Also I did not have to take tension of the belt..
I am probably going to do this on my saturn vue tomorrow...i did not know it was 100% possible to do just the tensioner, until i found your video. Thank you so much!
Edit: i ended up grabbing a tensioner and doing it today, because it really needed it and it's gonna be a lot colder outside tomorrow. I did exactly what you did, including the slack trick with the harmonic balancer. I can't thank you enough for this video. :)
Glad I could help
@@JoDaddysGarage you are a good man my friend - Txs.
This video was extremely helpful thanks man. Fixed my problem the hardest part is pulling the pin .
Just did this fix on my 09 Odyssey ... Thanks for posting this.
Success!!! Thank you so much for this video and spreading your knowledge .
Thanks worked like a charm on my 2013 Pilot.
Thank you for the video! I was able to get it done. God bless you.
Thank you big daddy!!! Great video lots of great Info.
Thank You. Couldn't have done it without it.
Thanks for your video jo daddy..got mine done today..have a cpl of tips to add..took me 4 hrs start to finish & mainly bc i need a cpl tools to speed up the tedious stuff like either a palm wrench or better yet a a battery operated right angle impact driver to drive out & in all those hard to reach bolts..also a 12 pt socket so one is less than a click away from latching on to the bolts as well as at least a magnetic 10mm! I did not remove the upper cvr..removed 3 close to the port bolts & loosened the one upper bolt that holds both..i did not remove it though..to facilitate removing both plastic cvrs i pulled the pin to within an 1/8" then bent the rong of the pin around the round cylinder so that it laid flat to the piston..actually would b better to leave it about 3/16"ths away from the housing so its easier to grab w locking pliers..next the battle begins..took a good sz common screw driver to wedge in the port hole & wiggle in the new piston..not to hard to do & once in i lined up the 2 bolts & tightened..then w locking pliers grabbed the ring & pulled & wiggled..used the screwdriver to pry the bent pin from inside the port & after 3-5 minutes got the bad boy out..i also used hand clamps to hold the elt to the pulleys & idler so that it didn't come off..o & that 19mm post bolt from the top is the way to go..use a breaker bar from the top to release tention on the belt & remove it from the alternator so there is no tention on the old or new tensioner..then just push the bar back towards the windshield to give enough belt lag to replace the belt on the alternator..make sure the belt is lined up on all pulleys n tentioners..good luck & even though i could have done many other things for 4 hrs..the oem part on ebay was $35 & the 2 qoutes that others on here got for this job was $745-1000! Between this & the alternator replacement..a real all day bitch of a job..i saved a minimum of $1600!!! I'll get greasy for that! Pkus w what i saved i got a cpl necessary tools to purchase
Clicky Clicky sound gone now ! Thanks for the video . Really small hands will make this job way easier ! FYI
Hey thanks too u I can quickly change my tensioner..and thanks for answering peoples questions about the belt slipping during the process.. 😁😁😊😊
I can't get my busy mechanic to do this. So I'm doing it myself. I hope it's this easy on a saturn vue w/ this engine. Thanks.
Thanks! Mine's a Pilot....belt and pulleys have been replaced, but the actuator looks stock. You answered my concerns about the grenade pin :D
Thanks for this vid, extremely helpful. I didn't have take the tension off the belt but everything else was as u described. FYI ppl don't buy the junk Dayco tensioner from advanced auto!
Why not the dayco?
Buy OEM parts when dealing with any timing belt or timing belt component. Aisin makes the timing belt kit that is OEM on these Hondas. Do it once, do it right. Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump.
Robert Connolly the Dayco failed after less than a year, hence y I called it junk
@@davidstreamo5005 Can't say I haven't had a bad experience with Aisin too! I replaced a radiator cap for a customer on an '08 Odyssey with an Aisin a couple of months ago and it started leaking in less than a week. Had to do the job all over again for free since it was a loyal customer and this time I used a Stant cap and the customer told me the leak hasn't returned. So in my 40 years of experience, I can say that quality control problems in parts are pretty much the same with all manufacturers, but if you personally find a brand you're happy with and the parts seem consistent then, by all means, stick with them. For me, I just use what works no matter who makes it.
Thanks for this excellent video man. I went and did this on 2012. It’s exactly the same. I did remove 2 bolts on tensioner and 6 more on the covers round the tensioner but leaving the cover on and raised it out just enough to pull the pin. And wheel well cover has a hole so you can stick 19mm socket through to turn crank pulley so I left it intact. Again thanks this helped me a bunch! I did use long nose pliers to roll the pull pin.
I have a 2012 about to do tensioner.. do you have to turn the crank to release tension. i thought the part should install then when you pull the pin it puts the tension back on....
Chris sims I'm thinking the same, the pin is holding the tension it shouldn't be any tension with the pin in, any body thinking we are wrong ?
Chris Sims
The pressure is there when you’re trying to remove the two bolts holding the tensioner. You turn the crank to relief it when removing and installing the two bolts. Otherwise the pressure will push on the tensioner even when the pin is not pulled. Hope this helps.
@@samle7678 Chris, if you turn the crank to relief pressure then do u need to realign on the cams and crank?
turns out u don't need to take tension of the belt to risk timing. when u pull the pin don't pull...use a rolling motion by holding the pin sideway and then roll the plier over to the left onto the body of the tensioner. use a big plier head so the rolling is not as much. Have someone hold the cover open from the top and you at the bottom. Or just jam the cover open with a 2X4. Hope this will help someone!
I think it might be the Tensioner Pulley that has a bearing that would be noisy if worn.
Thanks a lot just finished the job👍
Congratts .
Im a Bit concerned about the tentioner bolt or tentioner its self flying out into the engine or worst into my Head .
Any tips on them TWO bolts and how to avoid a mistake . Thanks.
Going to wear protective eye glasses and helmet ofcourse .
I want to laugh but this mater is so serious it wont let me.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Spot on, thanks for the tips!
Nice! Wonder if this is as easy for a 2012 Odyssey. Hmm...
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks amigo your video helped me a lot!!
@ Jo Daddy’s Garage Thanks for the easy to understand and succinct video! I’m in the process of diagnosing several things wrong w/ my wife’s ‘09 Odyssey now & believe this to be the “rattling culprit!?!” Also have some popping & creaking noises, when she turns far left/ right steering and believe those noises are coming from the CV Joints (which will need replacing as well). Thank you! Where’s “Angie??”
Angie?
@ Jo Daddy’s Garage. Yeah...”Jo Momma Angie Daddy!” 😆 🙄
I have to do it on my 05. Thanks jo daddy.
Gracias me ayudo mucho y mas cuando puse el actuator
Thank you so much.
I had the full timing belt, water pump and all tensioners and pulleys done at 100k, but the tensioner failed only 29k miles later. Temps here in Cleveland were well below zero and the van sits outside so maybe that caused the failure. I pulled the old tensioner out and the pin was totally seated in! I needed to use plyers to pop it back out then it appeared to work fine, but replaced it with a new Autozone unit anyway.
Jim Svo Our Honda Pilot is making the same noise but we just got the timing belt replaced at a Honda dealer last January, that was a costed $1,200 and it’s having problems already but
@@MichaelSmith-gf2cy the dealer replaced minimum parts: belt only - Everything else is extra including doing the same job multiple times.
Look up "OIL PUMP SEALS" for these Honda to be done as crankshaft and belt are off..!
👍
Does anyone know how much deflection is supposed to be on the belt? Trying to figure out if I have the same problem.
If you turn the crankshaft to gain clearance to install the actuator, but the bolt holes still dont line up? Turn it 45 degrees in total, it will more than line up. Wrap steel wire around the loop in the pin so that when you pull it out with a needle nose pliers by bracing against the actuator, the pin won't get lost inside the cover.
Super helpful video. Thanks for posting! About how much did you have to crank the camshaft pulley (the 19mm drive) to relieve tension on the timing belt before installing the new tensioner (90 degrees or more/less? ) thanks!
It only took a little bit of movement. Just a few degrees.
For me it took moving the camshaft pulley from about 6'oclock to a little past 7 o'clock to remove the tension. To remove the pin, which turned out to be the most difficult part for me, I locked down on the pin with small vise grips and the used a long pliers like a crowbar so i could pull up underneath the vise grips directly away from the pin hole. I would not have tried the whole thing without your video. thanks again!
turns out u don't need to take tension of the belt to risk timing. when u pull the pin don't pull...use a rolling motion by holding the pin sideway and then roll the plier over to the left onto the body of the tensioner. use a big plier head so the rolling is not as much. Have someone hold the cover open from the top and you at the bottom. Or just jam the cover open with a 2X4. Hope this will help someone!
The issue is. Once you lose tension on that belt. The cam gears can jump time...Then you are back to taking everything off. Too do it right the first time...As the belt has to replaced to...
Read the owners manual.. As that belt breaks. That engine will be destroyed. As it's an interference engine...
you didnt mention if the tensioner noise is there all the time or not. mine goes away after about 5 minutes of drivng. is that the tensioner?
Thank you for this - we had the timing set replaced last year, but it started clacking again exactly as it had before, I think the new tensioner failed or they did not replace the old one. Either way, we now have to replace the tensioner.
GP1138 I’m about to do mine in the next few days. I was told that certain companies had mad a faulty tensioner. I’m assume that’s what happened to you as, that’s what happened to me. Lasted about a year and now I have to replace the tensioner.
@@robinsonfernandezjr.8321 the only parts that are truely guaranteed to be good and last long are the OEM parts sold at the dealer, not the genuine look-alike copies on eBay for incredible prices or any of the rejects sold as Dorman etc...
For timing components look at "AISIN kits" known to a supplier of Honda Corp.
Did timing have to be set after pin was pulled
Did you have to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise before starting it up ? I’m asking because you turned it clockwise to loosen the timing belt. Or did you just start it right up without adjusting anything ?
I just started it.
Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 odyssey and my tensioner is making that loud noise. Is the tensioner in the same place for this generation also?
Should be
How much did you have to move the crankshaft to get the timing belt to loosen? I’m about to do mine and I’m super nervous about effing up the timing on accident.
It was just a nudge. Just to relieve a little tension.
Doing this on my 2011 pilot tomorrow which has 184k on it, had the timing belt replaced at 100k. Is this any indication I am ready for another timing belt? I was hoping to hit 200k before paying for that again. And to clarify this can be done separately of the timing belt? Thanks so much. In advance too I thought it was PS pump then alternator but thanks to your video I found the tensioner to be covered in fluid so I think that’s it.
It can be done by itself. But it's likely you are very close to a replacement of the belt. I haven't replaced the belt before, so I can't say how hard it would be.
I replaced my timing belt and water pump at 113,000 and my van now has 149000 miles and the tensioner is knocking pretty good. Would moving the crank clockwise mess up timing or the belt slipping off? Or did you do that with the old tensioner on first?
What brand of timing belt kit did you use ?
I couldn't pull the pin out sadly. Without taking the cover off, I have to pull it at an angle. Guess I don't have the correct tool to do it.
In your opinion is it safe to drive a Honda 3.5 engine with a bad timing tensioner 32 miles?
I’m looking to purchase a use Odyssey this weekend and change the whole timing belt components and water pump!
Can't say for sure. When you say bad, that can mean a lot of things. If it's still running, it would be your choice. Without seeing or hearing it, I can't say.
I was hoping the noise would stop. Still sounds not to happy. I have my fingers crossed for you. From the forums I read it could be a number of things some not so good. Helping my son in-law do a set of head gaskets on a Ford. I hate these newer Built to fail fords. My humble opinion.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks Bobby. I'll eventually get things right... Or I'll sell it.
So Jo Daddy turning the crank pulley affects the serpentine belt. How does that take the pressure off the timing belt? I can't get the tensioner back in because the timing belt pulley seems to have relaxed. By the way the pin on the hydraulic tensioner is recessed by the grenade pin so shouldn't it go in pretty easy?
what did you end up doing? did you get the pulley to move and allow you to get the tensioner on when turning the crank
The timing gear is behind crank pulley.
Did you ever replace the rocker arms mine's kind of making the same noise after changing the back
No. Rocker arms were fine.
Would this make a random misfire cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 6?? My is a 2007 Honda pilot 121,000 miles it's only on cold start up
Should not.
I have tried pulling the pin for hours and can't seem to get it all the way out. Any tips would be strongly appreciated. It's about 80% out..
Hope you got it. I can't really offer much.
Thought my engine was failing. This is my first Honda. So ...is there a chance that the belt could slip when releasing the tensioner? Or does it have enough tension even without the tensioner?
There should be enough tension. It would be difficult to make it slip.
@@JoDaddysGarage Great, Thanks!
I have had the valves adjusted to OEM spec, now I've replaced the timing belt tensioner (huge thanks to Jo Daddy) and I've still got a single tick/knock/tapping sound. What's next?
I have no answer.
Check spark plugs and make sure they are properly seated.
I tried and tried after installing the new tensioner. But nothing I did would allow me to pull the pin. Not enough leverage or clearance to yank it out. Anyone have a tip?
I did it, I did it! I ended up holding tension on the spring with a C clamp - removing the pin and oiling it so it had half-a-chance of pulling out cleanly - then reinserting it back into the tensioner. After installing the tensioner (for a second time) I gave a mighty tug with pliers, and the pin finally pulled free. Thx for a great vid...
They say when replacing the tensioner..you should put a new belt on and a water pump..is that really necessary or is it just a way for them to get you to buy more parts?
It is a good time to do it all at once.
Hey man! I did this yesterday and now my Odyssey will not start ! I ended up rotating the crankshaft clockwise quite a bit, would that matter?
If you rotated the crankshaft and not the other shafts, that’s probably the problem. Can’t do that.
Why was the old tensioner deemed bad when it had so much tension on it?
The bearing was failing on the pulley.
I pulled my tensioner out and it looks good. It's real stiff and not easty to press in. I wonder if it's in good shape and my noise is something else? Any ideas?
Hard to say.
@@JoDaddysGarage I went ahead and replaced it. I did the cheat method and didn't remove the belt cover...I just pryed it in there
If your vehichle has enough milage on it that the tensioner has failed then it's probably time to replace the timing belt and water pump as well...generally if it has more than 100,000 miles on it. It makes sense to take care of all those things at once while you've got the thing apart. You can order the OEM replacement kit from Amazon here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYTRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like a good deal.
So it seems mine is failing, however I have documentation the belt and water pump were replaced at 110k. I bought the minivan used at 120k and it now has 155k. Safe to assume since this part wasn't replaced and is now failing that I can replace it and expect to be good until the next timing belt service (when I would replace all of it again)?
is there away that i can check if the timing belt is set correctly without taking it apart?
There may be, but I don't have that information. Sorry.
@@JoDaddysGarage thanks for taking the time to answer