After watching a few of these 'fix damp' postings, I have come to some conclusions. A lot seems to be caused by raised outside ground levels and blocked vents with poor ventilation and water condensing inside the property. Some of the proposed wonder fixes lack credibility in my opinion.
Every damp issues is different and has to be diagnosed differently, there are different types of damp and unfortunately not very many damp companies have qualified people to interpret the signs, having Dampproofer wrote on the van doesn’t make you qualified as a lot of plasterers have. You need to pass exams and do courses which cost money and time.
MAkM it really does depend on what is the cause and type of damp and one property usually has more than one. Correct diagnosis and a schedule of works is key.
Any time theres damp theres always a cause of water ingress and unless that cause is found and repaired no damproofing is gonna cure dont care how big the hype its a fact you wanna cure damp cure the problem first !
Allot of people online seem to think rising damp is a myth.... it does exist but it’s best to rule out other causes first. I’m not sure if dot and dab is the best method to deal with rising damp. But one thing I can tell you is you will get cracking in between the dot and and rendered section of wall. Rendering wall with waterproof additive would be a much more long term solution.
JonnyC321 that’s a good point about cracking we use the same mesh as is used on the outside render systems, there is more chance of waterproof renders cracking when not prepped or applied correctly with thinner coats building up thicknesses. Cold bridging is another issue on solid walls not to mention the 48 hours it has to be left before it’s skimmed. I just show case the best, cleanest, quickest system out at the moment, whether people choose to use it is down to preference. It took a lot in our industry years to start using the thixotropic creams as they to thought it was which craft. Others made the money while they stayed set in their ways.
Your magic materials have been around for a short time, correctly lime pointing, lime plastering and proper floor levels have been around since Jesus was a boy, the Romans taught us how to build, lime methods have been around for 2000+ years not a bit of posh plaster board and foam spray, you are just hiding dampness not curing it.
I think you will find Gypsum has been around longer around 4000 years yet your against that, it’s first mentioned when the first pyramid was built at gisa. Reason I know is I did a thesis on it for my HNC. I’m not against lime plasters but they are an expensive way to cure the issues and everyone has a right to a dry property rich or poor so affordable systems have been introduced.
@@dampsam But plaster board is not curing it, it’s hiding dampness behind, these old properties need to breath, hiding the problem with boards and even heaven forbid tanking is just making the block work damp and eventually it will ruin the block/bricks/stone, modern builders are slowly killing old properties because the old methods are being forgotten or incorrectly used.
@@MrGuvEuroman keep it up mate, those cowboys are finding easy ways to patch up the issue which was solved hundreds if not thousands years ago. But it's much easier to put up a plaster board, rather than the proper plaster. Laziness, convenience and quick earnings make them proud of their temporary hacks. At the cost of the home owners unaware of the ticking bomb...
Frame it and insulate it Foil tape it then plasterboard and skim Lime has its uses but has not insulation value , hemp plaster is better if keeping the shape is priority Dot n dab should be reserved for internal walls
yeah right!!!! use lime mortar on old properties and lime asters lower levels outside french drain if needed and never use injection da.p proofing, it's a con!!!!
@michaelbanfield7987 Lime mortar should be used on all properties whether new build or old. The property can breath with lime mortar. Alot of builders just use sand & cement mortar on top of old lime mortar without preparing thoroughly. It's all about cutting corners and getting the work finished as quickly as possible before moving on to the next job.
@@rachelbailey-no2ppit’s absolutely shocking what they do. Seen one skill building the house is built in like and stone but rendered in sand and cement. None of them have a clue
This is nonsense. Buy the old house handbook from The society for the protection of ancient buildings established by William Morris. My kitchen suffered from condensation untill I solved it buy stripping off the plasterboard and plastic emulsion paint and repainted with claypaint. Old houses need to breath it's how they were designed.
Ian Howe thanks for your input, have you actually watched the video? The boards are held off the wall with acrylic and instastik dots, other than having bare brick you can’t get more ventilated. If you read through the comments for the videos you will see I have nothing against other re-plastering systems. This is just one of many.
Ull still plaster over it and it won't be able to breathe. And the course u mentioned is three days it's a joke. The damp proofing lads most of the time come out put there prongs in ur wall and it will show its damp. Lol. The whole industry is a joke atm, really needs looking at.
Hi Simon, sadly I'm not surprised that so many people are critical of a different method - it wasn't long ago that dry lining walls was laughed at as a skill less method by dinosaurs, still, I've worked on enough old buildings to convince me that "the old methods" are not necessarily the best - otherwise we wouldn't be working on them :)) Well done for showing different thinking and retaining your dignity when replying to some of the almost abusive comments
Richard Marshall thank you your 100% right, all I can do is put the new stuff out their, I empathise with people and know some just want to be herd so that’s why I try and answer them all, thanks for the kind words of support.
Hi Simon. You didn't explain in this video what the cause of the 'rising damp' was. Was it high ground levels? A leaking gutter or downpipe? Faulty soil pipe? Blocked air vents? Debris in the cavity? I have spent my whole life in the building trade (44 years) and the last 22 years diagnosing damp problems and have yet to recommend a chemical dpc or re-rendering the internal walls.
Stephen Gunner hi email me and tell me more about yourself dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com I get that many made up profiles commenting which I don’t mind but could spend forever answering the same question to the same group of people. I’ll be happy to speak to you by email.
karaburmasuburb feel free to email me with your concerns over the system which is designed by safeguard who are the makers of DryZone cream, 22 years doing what? I’m curios . Why don’t you send me an email get in touch for a chat. Let me know what system you use? Let me guess is it to let the bricks breathe,? Look forward to hear why your so against this remedial work and why you torture yourself watching if you don’t agree. Thanks for being a fan.
karaburmasuburb good morning and thanks for commenting, high end work sounds awsome and it’s great you don’t have to advertise. Imagine if you did though you could grow your business and scale it, but you may want to stay small. It’s interesting that you say trapping the moisture in which tells me you have some small amount of knowledge but none that relates to how Dampness travels in walls of buildings. If your free anytime I’m willing to sit down and listen to your concerns with a coffee and explain what you need to here. The offer is open to anyone who wants to comment and I’ll buy the drinks. You must have a lot of spare time looking through these video and writing comments but if you worked on your business harder you might be happier and it may grow and you might find you then need to advertise. When we have the coffee I’ll give you some tips. Have a great day
Lenny Dipp thanks for commenting, the only time moisture can be trapped is where glass is and it would need to be a sealed glass box as glass is the only material the water vapour as a gas will not travel through. The video is to shown the quick system and the cause ( of which there were more than one) has been addressed. The work was completed and guaranteed and the wall is still dry. Contact me, come have a coffee and I’ll answer anything you want on damp and how damp travel through walls of building as you seem very concerned and interested at the same time. My fave at the min is costa and we have 4 where I live. Have a fantastic week 👍
I have an idea. Can I ask your take on it? Using insta stik and say pink grip. Remove bonding above what seems to be a attempt to retain a damp issue ( internal but historical back wall) the botton part as what I would imagine is a waterproof render. ( if it had a damp course injected its not worked. ( need to check behind some full length kitchen cupboards as there are some rad pipes coming out the wall at very top and might possibly be leaking?? ) And fix tile foam board rather than plasterboard filling the gap around to stop it bridging. As the has requested covering with beadboard. And was going to prime front and back with B.I.N primer before sticking to the render and foam board. And then I'll paint and finish the skirting and the top edge.
@@dampsamsorry wasting your time. I'll try again! I was just trying to explain what I thought the history of the problem/task I've be asked to sort. My question is can you see a reason why I can't use tile foam board rather than plasterboard as I'm covering with treated beadboard mdf as paneling. Only doing removing area above the waterproof rendered! The rendered area which at the bottom 1m² in size . As above they have used bonding and is 25% moisture. And think i best remove and replace in a similar way you in the chip. I've be asked simply to cover with panelling which will just rot if I don't improve and replace the sodden old bonding first. As the moisture will be still in the wall. Is that any clearer! 🙏
Colin McCurdy well if you would like to tell us why you think this on watching a video we’re all ears, I empathise with you and do respect your right to comment a sentence but it would nice to hear more. Thanks for being a super fan and you limited input.
I did a DIY job using this method in 2008 on an extension (kitchen) in Ireland made of 9-inch blocks. Also on most of the external facing mass concrete walls of the 1930s-built main house. Skimmed / hard walled after. I was always dubious about fungal growth occurring behind the dry lining but so far we've seen very little if any. However... The entire main house was since newly replastered in 2016 because the old render was letting in some moisture and now perhaps a certain amount of moisture may be trapped in the walls (?). The insulation we used may only have been 25mm or so but massive warmth improvement. And so far (2021) no extensive problems with damp seeping through or fungus or mold. There is a small area of fungal growth present on the hall stairs which is at the gable end of the house but we have yet to determine whether it's due to the insulation job or something else, perhaps a leaking main under that area or some dampness penetrating the new plaster outside. The gable end wall at the stairs was NOT done using expanding foam but was instead drilled and pinned with those insulation board nails. I did the exact same Dec 2019 on our external boiler house I built here in Dublin, 9 inch cavity blocks, damp course, plastered outside and 30mm insulation inside this time. No skim coat. Super warm, dry and nearly 18 months later there's not a sign of damp or any fungus etc I used the cheapest expanding foam for both projects. I'll keep you posted on any negative effects I see of any. Worthwhile keeping an eye on it as it's
THANKS FOR THE VID. I TRIED THIS METHOD ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO. A YEAR LATER, THE PLASTER BOARD SEPARATED VERY SLIGHTLY FROM THE WALL. I HAVE NOW COME WITH A 100% BETTER WAY OF DOING IT. PS BEEN IN THIS TRADE FOR OVER 30 YEARS.
Tye Nawaz that’s great, the system works if done correctly and drygrip will not separate from a wall once stuck, in fact if you try pull the plasterboard off that next day the plasterboard will break and the dot will be still fixed to the masonry ( if fixed correctly)
Sound, solid, practical advice on an all too common problem found in many of Britain's un-renovated, late 19th century terrace houses delivered in a no nonsense, BS free way. Nicely done, Simon. I used to live in a terrace house in Stoke-on-Trent back in the 1990s. The original DMP had failed, but I lacked the resources to tackle the problem head on. It's wonderful to see a great solution to the issue that cuts out so much of the mess (and time to dry) of replastering. And, as if all this wasn't' enough, it's equally refreshing to see a contractor explaining the process, educating the consumer, and building his brand, all rolled into one. Again Simon: nicely done. Thank you.
Hi Gary, thanks for the kind words, hopefully, we can give the viewer some valuable content and point them in the right direction. I think in the next few years you will see a lot more companies doing this.
Hi pal. Can you use the silver foil back plasterboard, rather than using standard plaster board. Also can you use the everbuild stixall on the silver foil back plasterboard, rather using the foam gun????
I would not use the foil back boards as the wall is drying out after installation of the DPC, I’m not sure about the stick all but we use Everbuild applicators to insert the DryGrip.. I’ll have a look at it.
Hi pal, I hope you don't mind helping with my query. I've had issues with damp coming through my walls, so I used tanking slurry to tackle the problem. On top of the tanking slurry, I applied render with a 2:1 sand and cement mix (as advised by the manufacturer of the tanking slurry). Now the question is, can I use gypsum based plaster on top of the render, or do I have to use renovation plaster? Cheers pal.
I think this is a good system as you are reducing the amount of water that is introduced to the building, as we know over the winter people do not like to vent properties and so this system is good as it saves wasting potable water and reduces the drying time, could you tell me as the wall is hollow how do you fix the skirting ?
HI Simon, I have a 1900s solid stone wall with lime mortar and lime render on the outside. I would like to use insulated plasterboard on the inside but how would i fit this to the solid stone wall and still allowing it to breathe so no damp can happen. Basically the owners of the property before me had plastered using gypsum plaster over and that has caused a damp issue. I have taken this back to stone
It can be done using 1200 x 2400 thermal plasterboards following the express damp system with instastik dots along with the Drygrip. It’s imperative that the inside air is adequately ventilated though so there is less chance of moisture forming on any cold spots.
Insulated lime plaster is vapour permeable and appropriate for a traditional solid wall building. If these are external walls be very careful about using anything like plasterboard which will effectively trap in moisture.
Ні, I've got a question. I have a problem of rising damp. I've knocked down rendering on the inside of the house and it turned out that instead of bricks I have discovered Aerated Blocks. I've bought 50 dry rods but not sure now how to put them in to the blocks. What is best to use? Or how to put the dry rods into the blocks?
If they are blocks it won’t be rising damp, I would get a second opinion from someone competent and relevantly qualified it may save you money in the long run
It’s a polyurethane foam like expanding foam but it doesn’t expand like the expanding foam does and it has waterproof adhesive qualities. There are a few on the market now, the one in the video is called instastik
Can you help? I was told that Sovereign Stopped their guarantee or similar, on the injection treatment, because of many Failures. I cant see anything on web, but a firm deffo told me about it. Is injection best, instead using like a K1 solution. For rising damp on end terrace. Whole street has bad damp, and it comes back and back. I was gonna treat with anti salt gear, render with sbr in it, then sbr render when dry, then plaster? Wot you think?
This system has potential but not all walls are straight and some of them have really thick render.. it's kind of limited as well just for rising damp and not tanking as I do a lot of work below ground level but I will definitely give it a go you're obviously showing people on a nice clean wall with good brickwork and the thickness s is exactly how you want it any other situation I can see it being awkward especially with wires plug sockets and such
Yes your spot on with your comments, the system is not for below ground but can be used with natcem35 which sets in an hour. this is one of many systems out there and is ideal for small areas. you need to be a black belt at it to start doing plug sockets. you have to choose the right size plasterboard for the plaster thickness and background. Thanks for commenting and watching.
You need to re do this video mate. I missed the bit about the injection completely because of poor saound. It's easy for experienced trades to see this as a botch. After watching it a couple of times I realise it's not. Clean the lense on your phone as well. ;-)
You're not supposed to plaster down to the floor as you will bridge the dpc and even with this system if the plasterboard is in contact with a solid floor where no dpc exists as in most pre war properties moisture will bridge unless it has an impervious finish like asphalt even so there should always be an air break between wall finish and floor.
Hi Pete, That's a great comment and you obviously know a bit about damp work. what you might not be able to see in the video is that it is a timber floor and there is a cellar below. the acrylic and foam are also waterproof, and the board is not touching the masonry. Hope this explains the system to you a bit.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW if there is a cellar bellow I wouldn't imagine it to be a rising damp issue. What chemical damp course do you use as I have not ever seen one that will guarantee a party wall.
We have insurance-backed and our own guarantees, the customer chooses which they want. every damp company I know in the PCA will guarantee all their work because they are confident it works. these are tried and tested method to manage damp issues.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I have used lots of difference chemical dpc and never seen one guarantee a party wall unless both sides were treated as you cannot know what is on the other side of the wall.
Did you get A Party Wall Agreement first before you started any work on that shared wall You must tell your neighbours if you want to carry out any building work near or on your shared property boundary, or ‘party wall’, in England and Wales.form part of a building don’t form part of a building, such as a garden wall (not wooden fences) Walls on one owner’s land used by other owners (2 or more) to separate their buildings are also party walls. Party structures You can also have a ‘party structure’. This could be a floor or other structure that separates buildings or parts of buildings with different owners, eg flats. Party wall agreements are different from planning permission or building regulations approval. Party walls stand on the land of 2 or more owners and either
voodoo audio thank you for bringing up the question of the party wall agreement. our terms and conditions cover this for damp works. The customer has to notify the neighbours that there may be some loud noise and drilling. Legally you only need the agreement if you are installing steelwork into the wall, working on the footings (underpinning) or taking out all or part of a chimney. drilling holes may come under this if you go through into the other side, but we don't. thanks for watching the videos and your input. feel free to contact me via our website to discuss any matter your confused about sir.
Rhothgar Den Viking it’s interesting hearing what you say and I respect your right to an opinion, the party wall act over heat covers major works such as removing part of the chimney, underpinning and installing stealwork, Any of the above has to be sent in writing and they have 14 days to reply, Drilling and injecting dampproofing the notifications has to be done by our customers. Iv had some great apprentices and they have gone on to work for themselves, I always try and look for the positive of our education system, the ones that don’t do well tend to work harder to prove a point.
When you say dry wall are you referring to the system or drywall adhesive? I don’t use drywall adhesive the fixing agent is called drygrip and is waterproof.
How does the wall breathe and dry out through a gypsum-based plasterboard? In an old house like that you need a lime based plaster that breathes, or line wash if you want the brick look effect. Hiding the problem does not fix the problem. If wall is dry then spot dab is far cheaper and if put in the right places will take a wall fixing. If you are on your game you can also paper tape the joints to first fix in the same mix
I hear what your saying about lime plasters and they do have a place for some properties. We are showing this system so people know about it and can make their own choice of backing to be applied. I’m not saying every job has to be done this way, only giving people another option. Iv used every single system on the market down the years and I’m glad this has come out.
Hiya sam barry again from wales. Glad to see your living the dream today july 17th having bbq in this heat. You'll get to ibiza soon enough im sure. Just wanted to ask a question rev the plasterboard system. Would a surveyor pick it up on a damp meter. Just avout to sell a house and done your trick but thought would they know from a meter test should they check. Cheers if you can advise. Keep the vids coming we do appreciate you. Say high to the family and tell the little one we are watching the videos dad doing. Cheers bud.
Basically mate it's no secret, unless your a wally. All you have done is introduce a moisture barrier by treating or tanking the wall, then by using expanding foam attach the boards to the wall, as the foam is an insulative material you are not creating cold spots that show up in houses that have been dot and dabbed using board adhesive. If the exterior of the wall is not in good condition then damp will still continue to penetrate. Also if you have a breached dpc, by allowing the boards to touch the floor damp will continue to rise up the plaster board. You would have been better off using thermaline boards and foaming them to the walls thus insulating the room as well. Most damp in houses is caused by poor ventilation and to much moisture from cooking, drying clothes, and expelled air from the occupants themselves. Any cold spots caused by cold walls show up quickly in the form of mould spots or patches. Mould spores are present at all times but need certain conditions to manifest themselves, ie (moist cold rooms) The use of central heating and PIV systems will maintain comfortable living conditions whilst allowing air to continually circulate thus eliminating damp in modern and older properties, especially properties that do not have cavity walls.
Porthcawl Tag Rugby thanks for your view which is right on one hand and wrong on the other, 1 the board is on a Timber floor so it’s not bridging. 2 an insulated board would be too thick but can be used in some circumstances, 3 it’s not my system it’s Safeguard Chemicals 4 email us if you want to ask any questions.
Fair comment although being in the trade myself have had problems with party walls with damp appearing oddly enough about 1 metre up from ground floor level in a line running the length of the property. I understand that there is no miracle cure we try to do our best at all times. I would have though hacked all the wall off as the top half will probably blow with hollow spots and cracks soon to follow. Good luck with the product.
1m is about the max damp will travel up the wall (assuming true rising damp). Water is too heavy/gravity/etc. to go any higher. That's why you often see white lines on brickwork where the damp has evaporated and left the soluble salts behind (efflorescence)... If a wall has a damp problem higher up then it's either condensation (waaaaay more common than people believe) or penetrating from somewhere (cracked joints/leaky roof/flashing/etc.). Cheers.
Hi, what i was trying to explain is that in almost all circumstances when render is hacked off half way, the top half has almost certainly been subjected to trauma from the very action of it being taken off. Unless it falls off because it has blown, then it should have all come off anyhow. This is a practice people do when trying to keep the cost down. Cracks will certainly always appear over time especially along the edge the joints meet due to different expansion rates, no matter how much scrim you use.
Hi simon love all these videos and for what I’m doing this looks like the best system a few questions does the acrylic have to be from safeguard and will any foam grip work or more importantly which brands are you using currently and where to source from also the salt neutraliser how important is that what will happen if not used or is it to aid the adhesive to grip renovating an old terrace in chesterfield my self and your videos have been very insightful so keep it up
Rejpal Kang hi and thanks for being a supporter, Iv not come across anything close to having the grip and VFM of the drygrip. The salt neutraliser is part of the system and does help the bonding process I’m told. I use instastik but it’s in short supply at the moment so Iv order some called bond it, I’ll report on this once Iv used it . #staysafe
I don't think this will solve the problem, merely mask it for a few years. Also polyurethane is not a very healthy building material to be using so liberally.
jim S thanks for your input, it is hard to make judgements based on seeing a video, polyurethane is and will be used for years to come as it is very versatile. There are other products and systems to use and In my videos I show what is available and this give people a choice. Peoples time is valuable these days and all modern inventions are to make things quicker. This system is the best out there and you have a choice weather to use it or not. It also works and is approved by Safeguard Europe LTD. Hope this helps.
i once tried this in my younger years when i was green and didnt know better, the board got damp and rotted from the back. he should have used tanking slurry prior to boarding or better tanking slurry x 2 applications then bond and skim when dry.
If you new what you were doing ,you don’t put plaster board on to the floor ,and the plaster board will get damp with the moisture what left in the wall ?
This was done in my house x 2 now damp is showing through the wall board and the joists are wet!! We didn’t have a problem till we were injected-condition of mortgage. Our house was built in 1884
You need breathable materials. PCA idiots injected useless crap into our walls and tanked them (which made the mould worse). You need people who actually understand old buildings.
I like the method used, one major plus is not introducing moisture into the building as you do with plastering second is speed of finish well done brother some of your reply s to the Wally's had me pissing myself
Hi, the system uses small acrylic dots/dabs and instastik, its part of safeguard europes express dampproofing system and all the info is on their website. each time we use this system we use the same method.
You're also meant to leave the foam to activate for a couple of minutes before you put it to the wall. Most of those dabs will disintegrate as soon as you touch the wall.
nice work bro it was really a informative video,but not helping me in my case ,i have damp problem(render cement and sand plaster) will u plz suggest me any chemical or somethin ,already tried dozen types of damp sealer .....greetings from Pakistan
waqar ahmed ch good evening, I'm not familiar with the products you have over there, the sealing paints don't really work as it's the salts from the ground and building materials that may be the issue, it could be humidity that could be causing issues to, Send me the pictures and I'll try to comment, use the contact us form on our website.
Sika 1a added to your Leighton Buzzard sand for rendering is standard in the uk upto 1.2 metres above ground level should use Sika in the water mix. Making sure you use the Sika correctly and not too strong and not too weak is important.
Filling the gaps between the plasterboard joints will create a moisture bridge between the wet wall and the surface of the new plasterboard. To install properly there should be no gaps between the plasterboard joints
How is the moisture going to rise an evaporate out you have just created a seal half way up the wall with all that adhesive you sprayed in the plasterboard joints
Hi. Iv had condensation on my causing mold. 2 years ago my Plasterer made a additional wall on all external walls upstairs and put a membrane in between. The issue i face now is the horrific smell in my bedroom. I have to open my window every time. I made sure all my gaps are filled but what else can i do in my bedroom? Thanks
spiderman go , good afternoon Spidey, I suspect the problem you have maybe the mould is still growing behind the wall you put up, there could be a problem called interstitial condensation occurring where water vapour as a gas diffuses through the fabric but hits a dense material so then takes longer to carry on its journey, if the mould was not treated this may have multiplied, Dry rot also has a smell so check for leaking gutters outside and red rust coloured spore dust inside. My email is simon@alldrydampproofing.com if you need more help.
You need to get all the dry board off and membrane and have it lime plastered..Then check u have no issues with guttering or roof leaking or plastic masonry paint or if your house has lime mortar then check to see if its not re pointed with cement instead of lime check outside floor levels are below inside as well.. use a breathable paint inside and don't wallpaper...oh and lime wash outside.
Yes Mr Johnson, well said. I couldn't actually agree more. If there's damp in your bedroom then it won't be from the ground as moisture can't travel that high. The moisture is coming in another way. Get rid of your boards and get the place vapour permeable again.
If I use timber batons with a damp proof plastic strip behind them. Can I just attach the plaster board to the them. Or do you have to use the cream too
BIG MIK3 not really sure what you mean, I would need to know more info, feel free to contact me by email dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com and give me more info
I like your considered patient replies you have a lot of experience obviously and this will always be a controversial area. Truth is we still lag behind the continent and don't have as many technical solutions and materials as they often have. I like the way the Dutch deal with curing damp.
Womble Robert I hope your not referring to the Holland system who take out full page adds in sunday papers? We have the knowledge of how the different types of dampness affect walls in buildings so once you have this you can just use the best system for you as a contractor or company. I try and show all the systems I use so people can grasp how they work. I watch how too videos all the time for my everyday needs so like to contribute what I know into the information bank. Glad you find them interesting. Thanks for your input. Regards Damp Sam
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW checked it out yes snake oil! Knapen tubes. Won't use. Thinking of using injection cream at 150mm in former solid back wall wc area now bedroom with lean to protecting outer side Then hack to brick wp render eg sika additive then re plaster or d & d like you did but space ltd so may re render outside too above the pavior ground level which no longer unexposed not necessary to lower.
Hi mate great videos, some advice needed. Just bought a property and found a puddle of water inside the house coming through a concrete floor after heavy rain. Found that the front down pipe is buried into the ground, could this have been the cause of the puddle found inside the house?
I would look for any cracks in the floor or runs of water from the wall floor angle as this is a week spot. There could be a number of reasons for the water the down pipe may be one, it would be work having a drain survey done looking for any damage.
I agree go buy the book and read it then weigh up which option you want to use, the most expensive time labouring method or a fast cost effective method. 🤔
@@dampsam its not cost effective for a property owner in the long run is it though , all jokes aside ? the whole damp proof industry is a fraud , nowhere in the world has a damp proof industry other than the uk , the dutch for example even have houses built on water & theres no damp proof industry because it basically doesnt exist , new york doesnt either & thats been built on marsh land , damp is damp after all , this isnt a dig post either
Hi Sam could this method be used in a cellar? It is bare brick atm on a concrete sub floor. I am wanting to make the cellar a living space and unsure of what is the best way to make sure no damp will penetrate. Any help would be great. Cheers
As soon as you mentioned damp proof course you made this video a classic wally damproofer video. To save me explaining watch Peter ward videos on RUclips.!
Djt 8543 Anytime you want to sit down with me and explain your comments I’ll make time, I’ll even buy your drinks and get you a bun. You won’t though will you, trolls tend to just comment from the comfort of the keyboard. Have you commented on Peters videos? No because he won’t let you. Feel free to use mine ☝️
@@dampsam for your information you can comment on Peter ward videos! Which goes to show you haven’t learnt from a professional otherwise you wouldn’t be posting misinformation. Thanks for the invite to tea and buns but no thanks I’ve some more lime pointing to be doing!
My preferred method after the damp injecting is attach wooden batons on the masonry, then staple a heavy duty damp course sheets across the batons then fix the plasterboard with dry wall screws. These damp injection courses are hit n miss in my experience. Varied results.
@@dampsam It adds another layer of protection behind the drywall, and cheaper than these vapour boards. I know it's probably not necessary if the injection course does it's job. I'm fixing up my own property at the minute, few damp patches here and there and with it being 100 plus year old I'm using plastering mesh for all my skimming on brick walls Enjoy your videos, very educational 👍 Every day's a school day .
Tahir Rana personally it’s not something I would do as the denser the material the more chance of a vapour check/barrier occurring, the plaster board allows water vapour to pass either way easier. Thanks for your question.
Andrew Small hi, thanks for watching, we can work out how think The was is be using different methods and knowing the size of bricks. We dill 2/3rds of the way through to avoid coming out the other side. We are not perfect and it has happened in the past but not on this job. Most of the time you are at skirting level so it would go un noticed but on the verticals you may end up having some patching to do.
So you're stopping the decorative plaster being spoiled but the water itself is still coming up the wall? How does the water then evaporate from the bricks, won't it just climb higher up the wall, no?
Thanks for your comment, No, not at all, the brick work is brushed down and then treated with a salt neutralising cream for preparation. expanding foam expands around 5-7 times so it would just push the board off. it also takes over an hour to cure. on the other hand Instastik, sticks and has hardly any expansion and also cures in 5-10 min so is quick to use. hope this helps.
I’ve heard of a plasterer putting boards on with foam my problem is, it’s flexible which could cause cracking, Also how can you gauge it level if it’s expanding for next 5-10 mins? Also you say it’s cleaner..... mix your dot and dab thick and it sticks to you trowel then wall them board! Have you seen how hard expanding foam is to get off your hands alone!!! And to be honest I’ve drywalled a room had quick sandwich and then threw a mix on no problem with movement..... But look, If you ask 10 different cooks you’ll get 10 different recipes 👌🏼
Adam Speed thanks for commenting, you can’t use drywall with this system and never on a damp wall as it will come through the dots, instastik only expands slightly and is kept in place by the props until it’s cured which is around 10min. We use a foam gun to apply it and there is no mess, if you do drop sum leave it 10 min until it’s hard, use rubber gloves when working. A goop tradesman would have no problem getting the wall straight if not then they won’t use the system, we just give you the information it’s up to you weather you benefit from it. Have a great day.
i have got a proper damp wall and all paster is lumping and paint peeling. can i buy a can of something to just drill the brick and inject inside or outside to fix it up cheap.. i cant afford to pay someone loads of money to fix it ...
It all depends on what the cause of the damp is. You need to know the cause. There are different types of damp that affect walls of buildings and each is a different system of repair. It’s a bit like trying to treat a sore throat by putting a plaster on your neck. It’s the wrong thing to do.
Hi Jeff thanks for your comments, not sure what you have been using the foam on or what method. The wall eventually dries out, foam does not bridge as it is impervious. Its like saying the sand and cement render bridges, but if you know how the transfer of moisture works you will see it doesnt. Again not sure what you use the 4x2 for either but thanks for watching.
Hi, thanks for the reply. The foam was used around a new door frame, so it was touching the external wall and the internal. I had damp patches around the frame on the wall. The 4 to 5 foot 4"x 2" stretched across the stuck plaster boards joins making sure the boards were level and not following any irregularities of the wall.
A lot of builders are using foam to stick things - but the best foam is the fireproof one or pink one! Someone commented about the foam allowing moisture through it but this is the first i have heard on this?
Most of the so called rising damp is simply condensation which always ends up around the lowest part of the room. The biggest cause is modern heating systems in old houses cycling on and off getting the air temperature up but not on for long enough to get the walls to the same temperature. Hence warm air condensing on cold walls
Andrew Woodhead we respect your opinion and there are a lot of properties where that is the problem on some walls, we find that there is always more than one type of issue and now there are different systems to address this. We still have to guarantee the work so it has to be right for at least 10 years.
Hi Simon, been watching your videos 👍🏻, could you explain why you use insta stik, is it an alternative to the fixings Safeguard supply with the system ? Also I have a damp partition or salt contaminated wall 🤷🏼♂️1930s house, black mortar, do I need to hack of & treat both sides of the wall or just one side ? Thanks Mark
Mark Davies hi thanks for watching, I use dry grip and insta stilk because the drygrip on its own takes about 30 mins to hold properly when the board is pressed against the wall. Instastik cures in 5-10 min. Insta has no initial substance to it tho but the drygrip does so they work in harmony. You can drill from one side of your wall if you drill to 20 mm off the far side.
Nonsense.... rising damp never been proved..... it always a reason why wall damg eg next door, blocked vents, not heated.. no need for a damp proof course on old property . And the foam fixing method what a load of crap.. dot and dab and mechanical fixings every time... dont listen to his rubbish
Carl Whitfield you do sound like you have some knowledge of methods and it’s good you like the old dot and dab method, BS6576 says re-plastering has to be an anti salt method but unfortunately salts would come through the dots. You will no dought have seen this on jobs before where you get wet circles where the dots are placed.
"no need for a damp proof course on old property" ROTFLMAO! Please do some research before making such ill considered comments. Start with basic physics... ;-)
So when you say the rising damp "comes up and evaporates to make it equilibrium with the rest of the masonry", does that mean that the moisture is evaporating in to the air pockets between the plasterboard and the wall?? If thats the case, then surely the moist air pockets are going to turn the plasterboard into a sponge and it'll start to degrade.. Not immediately but certainly over a few years...
Colin Fulker thank you for your question, water will rise then evaporate out of the wall from the point the new DPC is installed after the equilibrium will be reached with the rest of the wall. Water vapour as a gas travels through all materials except gas but at different rates. The amount coming out of the wall would not make it soggy. If however it was lateral moisture from something earth retaining this would be another matter. It’s not recommended for use below ground level or chimneys without a waterproof barrier. Hope this helps, for confirmation try Safeguard Europe’s website as they invented the system. Thanks for watching.
Use breathable lime mortar and breathable lime plaster, accept that moisture is a fact of life, and that most 'rising damp' is in fact just condensation.
Tom Davies good morning and thank you for watching the video, we respect your comments and opinion. I full get that there is a market for re-plastering with lime plasters and I have used them in the past when the need arose. Get in contact and I’ll come have a coffee with you and we can discuss weather the new manufactured lime plasters produce any salts or weather it is best to slake your own lime as we did in the 80s. I’m sure your view will be interesting. Contact me via our website anytime.
I have the exact problem it’s an old house with solid walls. I thought it was damp but in fact it is condensation. It driving us nuts. The wall has to stay completely clear and it not always practical. Anything comes close to the wall ie pieces of furniture it will eventually cause mold. Any ideas please without ripping the place off
wlondoner check out our videos on PIV units and also the blog on our website, it sounds like you may have high moisture levels inside the property for some reason. Thanks for watching
Rising damp is condensation? Utter nonsense! Rising damp is simply capillary attraction of moisture from the (damp) ground into (drier, and, more importantly, porous) masonry above. It's why we use impermeable membranes (like plastic DPCs) to stop it, and why wainscotting was invented! (To cover up this unsightly problem in an age when Building Regs were unheard of.) Ever wondered why wainscotting is only four feet high, when according to your theory the whole height of a cold wall should be dripping in condensation? It's because atmospheric pressure can only support a column of water of about this height in a porous medium before hydrostatic pressure pushes the water out of said material. I thought everybody knew this? You know, if you don't even understand the principles of basic physics (in this case surface tension et al) you shouldn't be posting anything on RUclips, never mind giving 'advice' regarding this old chestnut. Sheesh! RUclips = denizen of the ignorant, the uneducated and the uninformed.
What sort of guarantee on the membrane? And what about the join line ? Surely the expanding foam is going to act like a sponge and going to create a problem?
The reply is a standard 10 Years same as all the guarantees, we use mesh across the joint. its the same mesh that is used on the joints of insulation for external render systems, there is not that movement though. the reason scrim is used on plasterboard joints on stud work is because the timber can move. Thanks for commenting and watchin.
Hi, my wall is painted with bitumen paint, can I still use foam and acrylic adhesive to fix to that? Or what's my best option doesn't seem like the paint would hold the weight?
I do a similar thing on isolated damp. But I use duplex board to prevent existing damp from sucking into the board been doing it for years this way an never had damp come back.
j baker yes it’s damp principle but damp doesn’t soak into the board the water vapour passes through as a gas, it will go through the foil but at a slower rate, Only thing I would say is make sure you put a salt neutraliser on the brickwork
Hi Simon, how would you fit skirting boards having done this? Do you plaster first? Reason I ask is that I'd imagine there's a little more 'give' using foam vs a plaster dab so would you risk cracking plaster when you fit skirting boards?
Hi Philip H, Just fit the skirting as you normally would, most joiners will stick them and pin them with the nail gun. you can fit them first if you want but after too, either way is ok.
Sam I was hoping to pick your brains. So water runs under my house, there’s been special tracks made to take the water away down to the bottom of the house then into a 60mm drain pipe. (I think it’s a drain). Okay my concern is my wife gets sore heads all the time and my kids cough only when there I’m bed. Something nibbles away at my mind saying that’s where the problem lies?
But how can the wall dry out? Moisture always diffuse into the pore structure over time. Making the wall cold. This doesn't really solve the issue but only masks the problem. Its kinda like having wet shoes and instead of drying it out you just put plastic on your feet
@@LiamGrubby for a few words then you actually sounded as if you knew your stuff and how moisture affects wall which is well documented by BRE amongst others including learned universities . I’m not going to go into detail but water vapour as a gas will diffuse through the fabric of the building and will go through all materials except glass just at different rates due to a number of factors. With rising damp once the source of moisture is stopped by installing a dpc the remaining moisture evaporates out of the wall until the wall is in equilibrium with the rest of the room. I know this won’t change your view but it may show you that the system does work.. not every wall in the old buildings were built with lime mortar and lots where we are have black ash. A lot of people are just repeating arguments from other sources without all the information. Hope this helps and makes some sense
I admire your out of the box solution. Many people will slate you for it, credit is where it is due! Well done! However, the expanding foams aren't waterproof.
No Rocket Science Build thanks for your comment, I think you will find the polyurethane foams don’t absorb water it’s a closed cell type of insulation. Thanks for watching.
Hi Sam have you ever used it come across this product? SIKA WATERPROOF COATING GREY 5KG (83502) It’s on the screw fix website. I’m applying it to brickwork and then it’s being plastered over....
Major League Gamer good Morning, yes I’m aware of Sika products and this particular one. Some are brilliant for waterproofing and are one of the more expensive brands. Why are you using this? Is the wall below ground level? This is a polymodified slurry used in waterproofing/tankin. I am not a fan of brushing this directly onto brickwork because people never prepare the background correctly. You do know before applying this product they recommend you take out all the joints and re point the wall first, as well as brushing the surface with a wire brush to clear all debris. They also say any paint to be removed and in some cases scabbling or pressure wash the wall, The way we use the slurry is to render the wall first and then apply 2 coats of this to the render. We also have a compressor to spray on the slurry. There is a product called NatCem 35 which is a pre mixed render and this by passes the need to use the slurry as it is waterproof and sets in an hour. They use this in the tube in London for repairs. Hope this helps have a great Sunday
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I am using this to stop moister coming through from the cavity as I’m sure there is debris is there from when when brick work was originally done, it is just a precaution, I am also applying a cream dpc in case it is rising from the bottom
attermire2109 when you say residual moisture what do you mean with this? Unless the wall is below ground level there should be no ingress as any moisture coming out of the wall will be in the form of water vapour(a gas) and this just goes through the plasterboard.
Ello mate. Have you done video on damp proofing interior partition walls?Also if you've got damp on the exterior walls...do you damp proof the outside or inside or both?Thanks. Mike
Hi, what sort of partition wall is it? Did you just mean an internal brick wall? If so this should be the same meathod as the others if it’s damp. You can either drill and inject from inside or out, if you want you can do both, You can use a long drill bit to double drill from one side, or you can drill and inject each skin separate from outside then in with a shorter drill bit. Hope this helps
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW hi thanks for info👍 So I can just use the rods for all outside, inside and internal walls? Is the rods ok and good or would you recommend injection? Sorry also why have you removed plaster and render on inside of main wall? Is this if the plaster is damaged?
BIG MIK3 if the plaster is contaminated with salts from the ground if you don’t remove the plaster and replaster with a salt neutralising plaster then the salts will keep absorbing moisture from the air and continually spoil decoration, Once the damp proof course is installed the masonary above can take up to 9-12 months to return to equilibrium. If installed right the cream and dry sticks work the same, you don’t need an applicator for the sticks and you know you have the right amount in the wall.
hi thank you so much for this informative video! we have a terraced house that we bought almost two years ago now and the damp and mould issues weren't picked up on the survey as the previous owner (a builder) had done a quick job to disguise them and move on. in our kitchen we have integrated appliances and one recently needed replacing. when we removed the washing machine we found there was no plaster behind the kitchen units, nothing but bare brick and plug sockets screwed into the brick work. the kitchen had been fitted first and then plastered around? never seen anything like it? its completely black with mould behind the units and in the dining area we have rising damp due to him plastering straight onto bare brick and straight down to the floor. we also looked into having the house insulated but the damp proofing he did outside wasn't high enough so could cause even more problems. is there any way for us to extend the damp proofing outside so it higher? also the inside were assuming everything needs ripping out below 1 metre and treated. do you recommend injecting the damp proof in the internal walls too? and where would you even start with this type of job? were in bolton so think we may be too far for you? thanks for any help and advice :) x
Hello Katie c If you do a postcode search on the PCA website you will find your nearest competent damp-proof and remedial company that are members and will give you advise on seeing the property. you could email us via the contact us form on our websire if you want us to come out.
What this guy is doing is crazy.you always keep plaster slabs 20mm up from ground level.this stops any damp on floors from rising. Drywall slabs do not stop damp they only cover it .Damp creates a fungus which is very bad for one's health. If u have damp penetrating from the outside you can treat walls with Sika or similar clear damp proofed. If you have to extend existing external insulation measure thickness of existing insulation ,cut new insulation to size and fix to wall with steel slab fixings. Check render and match new work. F. N
Frank Nally well spotted I can see you know your stuff, what you might not see is its a timber floor with a cellar below, and it's an internal dividing wall, hope this helps, oh and water vapour as a gas will travel through the fabric until all the dampness has evaporated from the wall after the installation of the damp proof course. I hope this helps you.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW - Hi Just a query how can you conclude rising damp if there is suspended floor and a cellar beneath? Typically rising damp will only travel approx. 1m in height from solid ground. The damp below timber floor should have dispersed within void of cellar.
the wall had a few issues going on with penetrating and rising damp near the front door with some bridging issues. there was a gap in the flooring that was also allowing cold damp air to bridge from the cellar. Again sorry for the poor sound quality these videos were made off the cuff and are not professionally made. they are impulsive but we are a professional company and know about damp issues.
I'm in the process of re-plastering two walls in a terrace built 1910ish, one is external, one joins the adjacent property they are both above a concrete floor. The bricks are wet, the old plaster was soaking wet in parts and in one spot, high on external wall had salt deposit. Hard to determine the causes (for none tradesman like me). Next to pipework (which was wet, but no obvious leaks now excavated), below a bathroom, render on external wall has (had) some holes, old plaster was patchy, some sand and cement mix, lots of bonding (other mixes??) the old bitchmin damp proof course at ground level was falling apart, plaster was touching concrete floor.... so obviously talking to a damp specialist to help. This technique seems like a brilliant idea. Are there any reasons not to use it? e.g. how durable is Insta Stik? Is it easy to make sure the boards are level as Insta Stick expands. What are the acrylic dots for? As you applied the Insta Stik to the side of the dots (sorry if this is explained in the video) but does the Insta Stick expand over those dots?
John Winstanley I wouldn’t used this system below ground level unless the area has had a barrier system applied Nat Cem 35 or similar. You need Plasterers props to hold the boards in place although safeguard do a plug that goes with the system to hold the board in place. The acrylic has more initial substance and holds the board slightly off the wall, the acrylic takes over half an hour to grab whereas the instastik takes 5-10min. Once the acrylics does grab though it takes some getting off. Thanks for you support hope this helps👍
After watching a few of these 'fix damp' postings, I have come to some conclusions. A lot seems to be caused by raised outside ground levels and blocked vents with poor ventilation and water condensing inside the property. Some of the proposed wonder fixes lack credibility in my opinion.
Every damp issues is different and has to be diagnosed differently, there are different types of damp and unfortunately not very many damp companies have qualified people to interpret the signs, having Dampproofer wrote on the van doesn’t make you qualified as a lot of plasterers have. You need to pass exams and do courses which cost money and time.
MAkM it really does depend on what is the cause and type of damp and one property usually has more than one. Correct diagnosis and a schedule of works is key.
@@dampsam well said si couldn't agree more !
Any time theres damp theres always a cause of water ingress and unless that cause is found and repaired no damproofing is gonna cure dont care how big the hype its a fact you wanna cure damp cure the problem first !
Or could be were a house built in lime mortar has been repointed in sand and cement. Like needs to breath and cement traps that
Allot of people online seem to think rising damp is a myth.... it does exist but it’s best to rule out other causes first.
I’m not sure if dot and dab is the best method to deal with rising damp.
But one thing I can tell you is you will get cracking in between the dot and and rendered section of wall.
Rendering wall with waterproof additive would be a much more long term solution.
JonnyC321 that’s a good point about cracking we use the same mesh as is used on the outside render systems, there is more chance of waterproof renders cracking when not prepped or applied correctly with thinner coats building up thicknesses. Cold bridging is another issue on solid walls not to mention the 48 hours it has to be left before it’s skimmed.
I just show case the best, cleanest, quickest system out at the moment, whether people choose to use it is down to preference. It took a lot in our industry years to start using the thixotropic creams as they to thought it was which craft. Others made the money while they stayed set in their ways.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW what do you mean by thixotropic creams?
JonnyC321 that’s what all dampproofing creams are called, you may just know them by the brand names like Dryzone
Your magic materials have been around for a short time, correctly lime pointing, lime plastering and proper floor levels have been around since Jesus was a boy, the Romans taught us how to build, lime methods have been around for 2000+ years not a bit of posh plaster board and foam spray, you are just hiding dampness not curing it.
I think you will find Gypsum has been around longer around 4000 years yet your against that, it’s first mentioned when the first pyramid was built at gisa. Reason I know is I did a thesis on it for my HNC. I’m not against lime plasters but they are an expensive way to cure the issues and everyone has a right to a dry property rich or poor so affordable systems have been introduced.
@@dampsam
But plaster board is not curing it, it’s hiding dampness behind, these old properties need to breath, hiding the problem with boards and even heaven forbid tanking is just making the block work damp and eventually it will ruin the block/bricks/stone, modern builders are slowly killing old properties because the old methods are being forgotten or incorrectly used.
@@MrGuvEuroman keep it up mate, those cowboys are finding easy ways to patch up the issue which was solved hundreds if not thousands years ago. But it's much easier to put up a plaster board, rather than the proper plaster. Laziness, convenience and quick earnings make them proud of their temporary hacks. At the cost of the home owners unaware of the ticking bomb...
Frame it and insulate it
Foil tape it then plasterboard and skim
Lime has its uses but has not insulation value , hemp plaster is better if keeping the shape is priority
Dot n dab should be reserved for internal walls
yeah right!!!! use lime mortar on old properties and lime asters lower levels outside french drain if needed and never use injection da.p proofing, it's a con!!!!
Won’t be buying you a scrabble set for Christmas 🎄
@@dampsam 😂
@michaelbanfield7987 Lime mortar should be used on all properties whether new build or old. The property can breath with lime mortar. Alot of builders just use sand & cement mortar on top of old lime mortar without preparing thoroughly. It's all about cutting corners and getting the work finished as quickly as possible before moving on to the next job.
That is the biggest load of horse shit
@@rachelbailey-no2ppit’s absolutely shocking what they do. Seen one skill building the house is built in like and stone but rendered in sand and cement. None of them have a clue
If you go to 7 mins in can I ask a question?
If the wall drys and comes to the surface won’t it pass though the board and make it mouldy ?
No because the water vapour coming out of the wall is at a slow rate and and is a gas
This is nonsense. Buy the old house handbook from The society for the protection of ancient buildings established by William Morris. My kitchen suffered from condensation untill I solved it buy stripping off the plasterboard and plastic emulsion paint and repainted with claypaint. Old houses need to breath it's how they were designed.
Ian Howe thanks for your input, have you actually watched the video? The boards are held off the wall with acrylic and instastik dots, other than having bare brick you can’t get more ventilated.
If you read through the comments for the videos you will see I have nothing against other re-plastering systems. This is just one of many.
Ian Howe - Old houses don't breath, it's all about permeability and evaporation, that term is quite misleading.
Ull still plaster over it and it won't be able to breathe. And the course u mentioned is three days it's a joke. The damp proofing lads most of the time come out put there prongs in ur wall and it will show its damp. Lol. The whole industry is a joke atm, really needs looking at.
@@dampsam Isn't the moisture trapped in the cavity?
The word is breathe.
Hi Simon, sadly I'm not surprised that so many people are critical of a different method - it wasn't long ago that dry lining walls was laughed at as a skill less method by dinosaurs, still, I've worked on enough old buildings to convince me that "the old methods" are not necessarily the best - otherwise we wouldn't be working on them :))
Well done for showing different thinking and retaining your dignity when replying to some of the almost abusive comments
Richard Marshall thank you your 100% right, all I can do is put the new stuff out their, I empathise with people and know some just want to be herd so that’s why I try and answer them all, thanks for the kind words of support.
Hi Simon. You didn't explain in this video what the cause of the 'rising damp' was. Was it high ground levels? A leaking gutter or downpipe? Faulty soil pipe? Blocked air vents? Debris in the cavity? I have spent my whole life in the building trade (44 years) and the last 22 years diagnosing damp problems and have yet to recommend a chemical dpc or re-rendering the internal walls.
Stephen Gunner hi email me and tell me more about yourself dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com I get that many made up profiles commenting which I don’t mind but could spend forever answering the same question to the same group of people. I’ll be happy to speak to you by email.
karaburmasuburb feel free to email me with your concerns over the system which is designed by safeguard who are the makers of DryZone cream,
22 years doing what? I’m curios . Why don’t you send me an email get in touch for a chat. Let me know what system you use? Let me guess is it to let the bricks breathe,? Look forward to hear why your so against this remedial work and why you torture yourself watching if you don’t agree. Thanks for being a fan.
Stephen Gunner n)
karaburmasuburb good morning and thanks for commenting, high end work sounds awsome and it’s great you don’t have to advertise. Imagine if you did though you could grow your business and scale it, but you may want to stay small.
It’s interesting that you say trapping the moisture in which tells me you have some small amount of knowledge but none that relates to how Dampness travels in walls of buildings.
If your free anytime I’m willing to sit down and listen to your concerns with a coffee and explain what you need to here. The offer is open to anyone who wants to comment and I’ll buy the drinks.
You must have a lot of spare time looking through these video and writing comments but if you worked on your business harder you might be happier and it may grow and you might find you then need to advertise.
When we have the coffee I’ll give you some tips.
Have a great day
Lenny Dipp thanks for commenting, the only time moisture can be trapped is where glass is and it would need to be a sealed glass box as glass is the only material the water vapour as a gas will not travel through.
The video is to shown the quick system and the cause ( of which there were more than one) has been addressed.
The work was completed and guaranteed and the wall is still dry.
Contact me, come have a coffee and I’ll answer anything you want on damp and how damp travel through walls of building as you seem very concerned and interested at the same time.
My fave at the min is costa and we have 4 where I live. Have a fantastic week 👍
I have an idea. Can I ask your take on it?
Using insta stik and say pink grip.
Remove bonding above what seems to be a attempt to retain a damp issue
( internal but historical back wall) the botton part as what I would imagine is a waterproof render. ( if it had a damp course injected its not worked. ( need to check behind some full length kitchen cupboards as there are some rad pipes coming out the wall at very top and might possibly be leaking?? )
And fix tile foam board rather than plasterboard filling the gap around to stop it bridging.
As the has requested covering with beadboard.
And was going to prime front and back with B.I.N primer before sticking to the render and foam board. And then I'll paint and finish the skirting and the top edge.
Don’t really understand this Stephen iv no context , not sure if your on about the video or the system in general
@@dampsamsorry wasting your time.
I'll try again! I was just trying to explain what I thought the history of the problem/task I've be asked to sort.
My question is can you see a reason why I can't use tile foam board rather than plasterboard as I'm covering with treated beadboard mdf as paneling.
Only doing removing area above the waterproof rendered! The rendered area which at the bottom 1m² in size . As above they have used bonding and is 25% moisture. And think i best remove and replace in a similar way you in the chip.
I've be asked simply to cover with panelling which will just rot if I don't improve and replace the sodden old bonding first. As the moisture will be still in the wall.
Is that any clearer! 🙏
Oh ffs !! I've seen it all now!! I think your horse is waiting for you outside mate
Colin McCurdy well if you would like to tell us why you think this on watching a video we’re all ears, I empathise with you and do respect your right to comment a sentence but it would nice to hear more.
Thanks for being a super fan and you limited input.
I did a DIY job using this method in 2008 on an extension (kitchen) in Ireland made of 9-inch blocks. Also on most of the external facing mass concrete walls of the 1930s-built main house. Skimmed / hard walled after. I was always dubious about fungal growth occurring behind the dry lining but so far we've seen very little if any.
However... The entire main house was since newly replastered in 2016 because the old render was letting in some moisture and now perhaps a certain amount of moisture may be trapped in the walls (?). The insulation we used may only have been 25mm or so but massive warmth improvement. And so far (2021) no extensive problems with damp seeping through or fungus or mold. There is a small area of fungal growth present on the hall stairs which is at the gable end of the house but we have yet to determine whether it's due to the insulation job or something else, perhaps a leaking main under that area or some dampness penetrating the new plaster outside. The gable end wall at the stairs was NOT done using expanding foam but was instead drilled and pinned with those insulation board nails.
I did the exact same Dec 2019 on our external boiler house I built here in Dublin, 9 inch cavity blocks, damp course, plastered outside and 30mm insulation inside this time. No skim coat. Super warm, dry and nearly 18 months later there's not a sign of damp or any fungus etc
I used the cheapest expanding foam for both projects. I'll keep you posted on any negative effects I see of any. Worthwhile keeping an eye on it as it's
Hi mate, need to do something with sound recording volume. Very informative however straining my ears trying to listen.
Press Volume + 🤦♂️🤦♂️
THANKS FOR THE VID. I TRIED THIS METHOD ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO. A YEAR LATER, THE PLASTER BOARD SEPARATED VERY SLIGHTLY FROM THE WALL. I HAVE NOW COME WITH A 100% BETTER WAY OF DOING IT. PS BEEN IN THIS TRADE FOR OVER 30 YEARS.
Tye Nawaz that’s great, the system works if done correctly and drygrip will not separate from a wall once stuck, in fact if you try pull the plasterboard off that next day the plasterboard will break and the dot will be still fixed to the masonry ( if fixed correctly)
thanks for reply. i'll try that drygrip adhesive next time a get one of those jobs.
Sound, solid, practical advice on an all too common problem found in many of Britain's un-renovated, late 19th century terrace houses delivered in a no nonsense, BS free way. Nicely done, Simon. I used to live in a terrace house in Stoke-on-Trent back in the 1990s. The original DMP had failed, but I lacked the resources to tackle the problem head on. It's wonderful to see a great solution to the issue that cuts out so much of the mess (and time to dry) of replastering. And, as if all this wasn't' enough, it's equally refreshing to see a contractor explaining the process, educating the consumer, and building his brand, all rolled into one. Again Simon: nicely done. Thank you.
Hi Gary,
thanks for the kind words, hopefully, we can give the viewer some valuable content and point them in the right direction.
I think in the next few years you will see a lot more companies doing this.
Hi pal. Can you use the silver foil back plasterboard, rather than using standard plaster board. Also can you use the everbuild stixall on the silver foil back plasterboard, rather using the foam gun????
I would not use the foil back boards as the wall is drying out after installation of the DPC, I’m not sure about the stick all but we use Everbuild applicators to insert the DryGrip.. I’ll have a look at it.
can you plaster directly over that foam on the vertical section or do you need scrim tape? thanks
Yes both
Hi, can this type of adhesive be used to bond boards to timber rafters.?
Yes but they would need holding in place until the adhesive cures
Hi pal, I hope you don't mind helping with my query.
I've had issues with damp coming through my walls, so I used tanking slurry to tackle the problem. On top of the tanking slurry, I applied render with a 2:1 sand and cement mix (as advised by the manufacturer of the tanking slurry). Now the question is, can I use gypsum based plaster on top of the render, or do I have to use renovation plaster? Cheers pal.
I would use renderlite or limelite
@@dampsam Cheers mate.
I think this is a good system as you are reducing the amount of water that is introduced to the building, as we know over the winter people do not like to vent properties and so this system is good as it saves wasting potable water and reduces the drying time, could you tell me as the wall is hollow how do you fix the skirting ?
I thoroughly enjoyed this video .
This is a way forward !
HI Simon, I have a 1900s solid stone wall with lime mortar and lime render on the outside. I would like to use insulated plasterboard on the inside but how would i fit this to the solid stone wall and still allowing it to breathe so no damp can happen. Basically the owners of the property before me had plastered using gypsum plaster over and that has caused a damp issue. I have taken this back to stone
It can be done using 1200 x 2400 thermal plasterboards following the express damp system with instastik dots along with the Drygrip.
It’s imperative that the inside air is adequately ventilated though so there is less chance of moisture forming on any cold spots.
Insulated lime plaster is vapour permeable and appropriate for a traditional solid wall building. If these are external walls be very careful about using anything like plasterboard which will effectively trap in moisture.
I used the safe guard method 2 years ago and up to now have had no problems.i am not a builder just keen DIY
That’s great to hear, I personally think it’s a game changer and if you don’t embrace it you will be left behind
What's the safe guard method? I missed something.
Ні,
I've got a question. I have a problem of rising damp. I've knocked down rendering on the inside of the house and it turned out that instead of bricks I have discovered Aerated Blocks. I've bought 50 dry rods but not sure now how to put them in to the blocks. What is best to use? Or how to put the dry rods into the blocks?
If they are blocks it won’t be rising damp, I would get a second opinion from someone competent and relevantly qualified it may save you money in the long run
will this foam stick to a smooth damp proof membrane?
Yes sticks to all surfaces
Apologies if I've missed some details but is that just ordinary expanding foam or a special damp proofing foam.
It’s a polyurethane foam like expanding foam but it doesn’t expand like the expanding foam does and it has waterproof adhesive qualities. There are a few on the market now, the one in the video is called instastik
Can you help? I was told that Sovereign Stopped their guarantee or similar, on the injection treatment, because of many Failures. I cant see anything on web, but a firm deffo told me about it.
Is injection best, instead using like a K1 solution. For rising damp on end terrace. Whole street has bad damp, and it comes back and back. I was gonna treat with anti salt gear, render with sbr in it, then sbr render when dry, then plaster? Wot you think?
Soveriegn only guarantee their product, the installer guarantees the work.
This system has potential but not all walls are straight and some of them have really thick render.. it's kind of limited as well just for rising damp and not tanking as I do a lot of work below ground level but I will definitely give it a go you're obviously showing people on a nice clean wall with good brickwork and the thickness s is exactly how you want it any other situation I can see it being awkward especially with wires plug sockets and such
Yes your spot on with your comments, the system is not for below ground but can be used with natcem35 which sets in an hour. this is one of many systems out there and is ideal for small areas. you need to be a black belt at it to start doing plug sockets. you have to choose the right size plasterboard for the plaster thickness and background. Thanks for commenting and watching.
No such thing as rising damp
@@kesgreen4639 how did it get wet then I've seen damp rise up a wall many times in fact all the time.. how did it get wet.. capillary action
Hi we got wet wall we think it condensation it's a old house over 200 years how would I be able tackle that if I rip all plaster off
Without a site visit it’s hard to say, lots of systems out there but you also need to look at your ventilation
You need to re do this video mate. I missed the bit about the injection completely because of poor saound. It's easy for experienced trades to see this as a botch. After watching it a couple of times I realise it's not. Clean the lense on your phone as well. ;-)
Graham Orm n; n
You're not supposed to plaster down to the floor as you will bridge the dpc and even with this system if the plasterboard is in contact with a solid floor where no dpc exists as in most pre war properties moisture will bridge unless it has an impervious finish like asphalt even so there should always be an air break between wall finish and floor.
Hi Pete,
That's a great comment and you obviously know a bit about damp work. what you might not be able to see in the video is that it is a timber floor and there is a cellar below. the acrylic and foam are also waterproof, and the board is not touching the masonry.
Hope this explains the system to you a bit.
Yes thanks for clarifying. I noticed on another video after i posted, that you made an air break . know the foam ,good stuff.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW if there is a cellar bellow I wouldn't imagine it to be a rising damp issue.
What chemical damp course do you use as I have not ever seen one that will guarantee a party wall.
We have insurance-backed and our own guarantees, the customer chooses which they want. every damp company I know in the PCA will guarantee all their work because they are confident it works. these are tried and tested method to manage damp issues.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I have used lots of difference chemical dpc and never seen one guarantee a party wall unless both sides were treated as you cannot know what is on the other side of the wall.
Did you get A Party Wall Agreement first before you started any work on that shared wall You must tell your neighbours if you want to carry out any building work near or on your shared property boundary, or ‘party wall’, in England and Wales.form part of a building
don’t form part of a building, such as a garden wall (not wooden fences)
Walls on one owner’s land used by other owners (2 or more) to separate their buildings are also party walls.
Party structures
You can also have a ‘party structure’. This could be a floor or other structure that separates buildings or parts of buildings with different owners, eg flats.
Party wall agreements are different from planning permission or building regulations approval.
Party walls stand on the land of 2 or more owners and either
voodoo audio thank you for bringing up the question of the party wall agreement. our terms and conditions cover this for damp works. The customer has to notify the neighbours that there may be some loud noise and drilling.
Legally you only need the agreement if you are installing steelwork into the wall, working on the footings (underpinning) or taking out all or part of a chimney.
drilling holes may come under this if you go through into the other side, but we don't.
thanks for watching the videos and your input. feel free to contact me via our website to discuss any matter your confused about sir.
OMG! Someone who really knows about something! I'm NOT ALONE after all!
Well said, voodoo audio. Yay! :-P
Rhothgar Den Viking it’s interesting hearing what you say and I respect your right to an opinion, the party wall act over heat covers major works such as removing part of the chimney, underpinning and installing stealwork,
Any of the above has to be sent in writing and they have 14 days to reply,
Drilling and injecting dampproofing the notifications has to be done by our customers.
Iv had some great apprentices and they have gone on to work for themselves,
I always try and look for the positive of our education system, the ones that don’t do well tend to work harder to prove a point.
Can this wall be left just like this after treatment? Or it needs plastering afterwards? Thanks
It needs to be skimmed
Is this normal to put drywall straight onto brick exterior? No framing, no insulation?
When you say dry wall are you referring to the system or drywall adhesive? I don’t use drywall adhesive the fixing agent is called drygrip and is waterproof.
Brilliant video
Thanks for demo'ing Simon. I respect there is more than one way to sort out damp proofing.
Not really
There is the correct way & this way
What will happen in case damp is raising on the wall?
Great video definitely!
We drill and inject a dpc
We use duplex boards and anchors as well as the foam. Stops any residual damp coming through the board. I'd never use a normal board.
jonty jt not sure what you mean by a duplex board, foil back prob? I would think it may create a vapour check, do you use acrylic to fix them?
Does this system work on lime cement walls or lime plastered walls.
Yes works on all masonry background s
How does the wall breathe and dry out through a gypsum-based plasterboard? In an old house like that you need a lime based plaster that breathes, or line wash if you want the brick look effect. Hiding the problem does not fix the problem. If wall is dry then spot dab is far cheaper and if put in the right places will take a wall fixing. If you are on your game you can also paper tape the joints to first fix in the same mix
I hear what your saying about lime plasters and they do have a place for some properties. We are showing this system so people know about it and can make their own choice of backing to be applied. I’m not saying every job has to be done this way, only giving people another option. Iv used every single system on the market down the years and I’m glad this has come out.
Hiya sam barry again from wales. Glad to see your living the dream today july 17th having bbq in this heat. You'll get to ibiza soon enough im sure. Just wanted to ask a question rev the plasterboard system. Would a surveyor pick it up on a damp meter. Just avout to sell a house and done your trick but thought would they know from a meter test should they check. Cheers if you can advise. Keep the vids coming we do appreciate you. Say high to the family and tell the little one we are watching the videos dad doing. Cheers bud.
Hi Barry, thanks for your kind words pal.
If the system is installed correct with no bridging issues you will be fine.,
👍
Basically mate it's no secret, unless your a wally. All you have done is introduce a moisture barrier by treating or tanking the wall, then by using expanding foam attach the boards to the wall, as the foam is an insulative material you are not creating cold spots that show up in houses that have been dot and dabbed using board adhesive. If the exterior of the wall is not in good condition then damp will still continue to penetrate. Also if you have a breached dpc, by allowing the boards to touch the floor damp will continue to rise up the plaster board. You would have been better off using thermaline boards and foaming them to the walls thus insulating the room as well. Most damp in houses is caused by poor ventilation and to much moisture from cooking, drying clothes, and expelled air from the occupants themselves. Any cold spots caused by cold walls show up quickly in the form of mould spots or patches. Mould spores are present at all times but need certain conditions to manifest themselves, ie (moist cold rooms) The use of central heating and PIV systems will maintain comfortable living conditions whilst allowing air to continually circulate thus eliminating damp in modern and older properties, especially properties that do not have cavity walls.
Porthcawl Tag Rugby thanks for your view which is right on one hand and wrong on the other,
1 the board is on a Timber floor so it’s not bridging. 2 an insulated board would be too thick but can be used in some circumstances, 3 it’s not my system it’s Safeguard Chemicals 4 email us if you want to ask any questions.
Fair comment although being in the trade myself have had problems with party walls with damp appearing oddly enough about 1 metre up from ground floor level in a line running the length of the property. I understand that there is no miracle cure we try to do our best at all times. I would have though hacked all the wall off as the top half will probably blow with hollow spots and cracks soon to follow. Good luck with the product.
good comment
1m is about the max damp will travel up the wall (assuming true rising damp). Water is too heavy/gravity/etc. to go any higher. That's why you often see white lines on brickwork where the damp has evaporated and left the soluble salts behind (efflorescence)... If a wall has a damp problem higher up then it's either condensation (waaaaay more common than people believe) or penetrating from somewhere (cracked joints/leaky roof/flashing/etc.). Cheers.
Hi, what i was trying to explain is that in almost all circumstances when render is hacked off half way, the top half has almost certainly been subjected to trauma from the very action of it being taken off. Unless it falls off because it has blown, then it should have all come off anyhow. This is a practice people do when trying to keep the cost down. Cracks will certainly always appear over time especially along the edge the joints meet due to different expansion rates, no matter how much scrim you use.
Hi simon love all these videos and for what I’m doing this looks like the best system a few questions does the acrylic have to be from safeguard and will any foam grip work or more importantly which brands are you using currently and where to source from also the salt neutraliser how important is that what will happen if not used or is it to aid the adhesive to grip renovating an old terrace in chesterfield my self and your videos have been very insightful so keep it up
Rejpal Kang hi and thanks for being a supporter, Iv not come across anything close to having the grip and VFM of the drygrip. The salt neutraliser is part of the system and does help the bonding process I’m told. I use instastik but it’s in short supply at the moment so Iv order some called bond it, I’ll report on this once Iv used it . #staysafe
please do not use this system you will regret it later on.
@@dccowell56 You say this David but then you don't explain why, the blokes is trying to earn a living. Comments like yours are just irresponsible.
I don't think this will solve the problem, merely mask it for a few years. Also polyurethane is not a very healthy building material to be using so liberally.
jim S thanks for your input, it is hard to make judgements based on seeing a video, polyurethane is and will be used for years to come as it is very versatile.
There are other products and systems to use and In my videos I show what is available and this give people a choice. Peoples time is valuable these days and all modern inventions are to make things quicker. This system is the best out there and you have a choice weather to use it or not. It also works and is approved by Safeguard Europe LTD. Hope this helps.
Is that just normal expanding foam?
It’s instastik
@@dampsam thanks
i once tried this in my younger years when i was green and didnt know better, the board got damp and rotted from the back. he should have used tanking slurry prior to boarding or better tanking slurry x 2 applications then bond and skim when dry.
I imaging you didn’t used the system I used, Drygrip is waterproof you probably used drywall .
Does it work on stone walls? what is the name of space segment??
Yes works on all masonry, not sure what you mean about a space segment
If you new what you were doing ,you don’t put plaster board on to the floor ,and the plaster board will get damp with the moisture what left in the wall ?
It’s a timber floor brains 🧠
Is that foam expander ? You actually use that to stick the drywall sheet to wall ?
Its A product called Instastik Rc Vulcan
This was done in my house x 2 now damp is showing through the wall board and the joists are wet!! We didn’t have a problem till we were injected-condition of mortgage. Our house was built in 1884
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
You need breathable materials. PCA idiots injected useless crap into our walls and tanked them (which made the mould worse). You need people who actually understand old buildings.
I like the method used, one major plus is not introducing moisture into the building as you do with plastering second is speed of finish well done brother some of your reply s to the Wally's had me pissing myself
Thanks Rueben ,
The system is common sense if you know how moisture affects walls.
The amount of times I have had to redo slap dash work is amazing, people don't use common sense. All down to research and investigation.
Are the original dabs on the board the same foam as the second lot of dabs you put on in the video?
Hi, the system uses small acrylic dots/dabs and instastik, its part of safeguard europes express dampproofing system and all the info is on their website. each time we use this system we use the same method.
Whats a fair price for this work?
Every area and person is different
air flow is required to get damp out i have worked on 30 year old properties his idea works but needs airflow in bad situations.
You're also meant to leave the foam to activate for a couple of minutes before you put it to the wall. Most of those dabs will disintegrate as soon as you touch the wall.
jonty jt have you seen the full system, the acrylic keeps it off the wall, I think your on about dry lining not damp work, I could be wrong tho.
Good video, what investigative diagnosis methods did you use out of interest?
Daniel N it was a site survey by myself, iv done a video showing what is in my surveyors kit and also a full survey, check them out on the channel.
nice work bro it was really a informative video,but not helping me in my case ,i have damp problem(render cement and sand plaster) will u plz suggest me any chemical or somethin ,already tried dozen types of damp sealer .....greetings from Pakistan
waqar ahmed ch good evening, I'm not familiar with the products you have over there, the sealing paints don't really work as it's the salts from the ground and building materials that may be the issue, it could be humidity that could be causing issues to,
Send me the pictures and I'll try to comment, use the contact us form on our website.
I have the volume all the way up on my iPad and even put on earbuds but can barely hear you.
Sorry JT, the vids are just done on my phone at the min and dust may have affected the mic. Apologies for the poor sound.
Sika 1a added to your Leighton Buzzard sand for rendering is standard in the uk upto 1.2 metres above ground level should use Sika in the water mix. Making sure you use the Sika correctly and not too strong and not too weak is important.
Filling the gaps between the plasterboard joints will create a moisture bridge between the wet wall and the surface of the new plasterboard. To install properly there should be no gaps between the plasterboard joints
How is the moisture going to rise an evaporate out you have just created a seal half way up the wall with all that adhesive you sprayed in the plasterboard joints
Thanks for your input really appreciate you watching. Have a read how damp evaporates from a wall and you will see filling the joints don’t matter.
Hi. Iv had condensation on my causing mold. 2 years ago my Plasterer made a additional wall on all external walls upstairs and put a membrane in between. The issue i face now is the horrific smell in my bedroom. I have to open my window every time. I made sure all my gaps are filled but what else can i do in my bedroom? Thanks
spiderman go , good afternoon Spidey,
I suspect the problem you have maybe the mould is still growing behind the wall you put up, there could be a problem called interstitial condensation occurring where water vapour as a gas diffuses through the fabric but hits a dense material so then takes longer to carry on its journey, if the mould was not treated this may have multiplied, Dry rot also has a smell so check for leaking gutters outside and red rust coloured spore dust inside.
My email is simon@alldrydampproofing.com if you need more help.
You need to get all the dry board off and membrane and have it lime plastered..Then check u have no issues with guttering or roof leaking or plastic masonry paint or if your house has lime mortar then check to see if its not re pointed with cement instead of lime check outside floor levels are below inside as well.. use a breathable paint inside and don't wallpaper...oh and lime wash outside.
Good comment Mr Johnson
Yes Mr Johnson, well said. I couldn't actually agree more. If there's damp in your bedroom then it won't be from the ground as moisture can't travel that high. The moisture is coming in another way. Get rid of your boards and get the place vapour permeable again.
Great Comment Johnny C totally agree about the cavity.
If I use timber batons with a damp proof plastic strip behind them. Can I just attach the plaster board to the them. Or do you have to use the cream too
BIG MIK3 not really sure what you mean, I would need to know more info, feel free to contact me by email dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com and give me more info
I like your considered patient replies you have a lot of experience obviously and this will always be a controversial area.
Truth is we still lag behind the continent and don't have as many technical solutions and materials as they often have. I like the way the Dutch deal with curing damp.
Womble Robert I hope your not referring to the Holland system who take out full page adds in sunday papers? We have the knowledge of how the different types of dampness affect walls in buildings so once you have this you can just use the best system for you as a contractor or company. I try and show all the systems I use so people can grasp how they work. I watch how too videos all the time for my everyday needs so like to contribute what I know into the information bank.
Glad you find them interesting. Thanks for your input. Regards Damp Sam
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW checked it out yes snake oil! Knapen tubes. Won't use. Thinking of using injection cream at 150mm in former solid back wall wc area now bedroom with lean to protecting outer side Then hack to brick wp render eg sika additive then re plaster or d & d like you did but space ltd so may re render outside too above the pavior ground level which no longer unexposed not necessary to lower.
@@robmcghie5248 yeah, you got it all sorted you two
Hi what’s the foam you are using
Instastick on that job but we now use mega stick
Thanks Simon for you video weldone
Hi mate great videos, some advice needed. Just bought a property and found a puddle of water inside the house coming through a concrete floor after heavy rain. Found that the front down pipe is buried into the ground, could this have been the cause of the puddle found inside the house?
I would look for any cracks in the floor or runs of water from the wall floor angle as this is a week spot.
There could be a number of reasons for the water the down pipe may be one, it would be work having a drain survey done looking for any damage.
@@dampsam Excellent, thanks Simon
Dont do this especially if you have an old building
For a few quid buy haynes period property manual and then have it done properly
i do , & saved £££££sss
I agree go buy the book and read it then weigh up which option you want to use, the most expensive time labouring method or a fast cost effective method. 🤔
@@dampsam its not cost effective for a property owner in the long run is it though , all jokes aside ? the whole damp proof industry is a fraud , nowhere in the world has a damp proof industry other than the uk , the dutch for example even have houses built on water & theres no damp proof industry because it basically doesnt exist , new york doesnt either & thats been built on marsh land , damp is damp after all , this isnt a dig post either
Hi Sam could this method be used in a cellar? It is bare brick atm on a concrete sub floor. I am wanting to make the cellar a living space and unsure of what is the best way to make sure no damp will penetrate. Any help would be great. Cheers
See answer above 👍
Can I use Soudal Plasterboard Adhesive Foam to stick the plaster board Simon, is it acrylic? Thanks.
I would say yes it’s polyurethane adhesive , I would still use it with Drygrip adhesive though.
As soon as you mentioned damp proof course you made this video a classic wally damproofer video. To save me explaining watch Peter ward videos on RUclips.!
Djt 8543 Anytime you want to sit down with me and explain your comments I’ll make time, I’ll even buy your drinks and get you a bun. You won’t though will you, trolls tend to just comment from the comfort of the keyboard.
Have you commented on Peters videos? No because he won’t let you. Feel free to use mine ☝️
@@dampsam for your information you can comment on Peter ward videos! Which goes to show you haven’t learnt from a professional otherwise you wouldn’t be posting misinformation. Thanks for the invite to tea and buns but no thanks I’ve some more lime pointing to be doing!
@@soldier-Dave non of the ones Iv watched let you comment but to be fair Iv not seen them all. Happy pointing ☝️
@@soldier-Davepeter ward doesn’t show solutions just picks faults with everything he wants everyone to live like the victorians did. hes a nob
My preferred method after the damp injecting is attach wooden batons on the masonry, then staple a heavy duty damp course sheets across the batons then fix the plasterboard with dry wall screws.
These damp injection courses are hit n miss in my experience. Varied results.
Well that’s not good practice but if it works for you and your happy with it then fine.
@@dampsam It adds another layer of protection behind the drywall, and cheaper than these vapour boards. I know it's probably not necessary if the injection course does it's job.
I'm fixing up my own property at the minute, few damp patches here and there and with it being 100 plus year old I'm using plastering mesh for all my skimming on brick walls
Enjoy your videos, very educational 👍
Every day's a school day .
Would it be better to use a foil backed or water resistant plasterboard/Hardibacker?
Tahir Rana personally it’s not something I would do as the denser the material the more chance of a vapour check/barrier occurring, the plaster board allows water vapour to pass either way easier.
Thanks for your question.
Do you drill through to the next door in a terrace house?
Andrew Small hi, thanks for watching, we can work out how think The was is be using different methods and knowing the size of bricks. We dill 2/3rds of the way through to avoid coming out the other side. We are not perfect and it has happened in the past but not on this job. Most of the time you are at skirting level so it would go un noticed but on the verticals you may end up having some patching to do.
So you're stopping the decorative plaster being spoiled but the water itself is still coming up the wall? How does the water then evaporate from the bricks, won't it just climb higher up the wall, no?
did u use the sticky version of expanding foam because ordinary i dont think will stick to dusty brick
Thanks for your comment, No, not at all, the brick work is brushed down and then treated with a salt neutralising cream for preparation. expanding foam expands around 5-7 times so it would just push the board off. it also takes over an hour to cure. on the other hand Instastik, sticks and has hardly any expansion and also cures in 5-10 min so is quick to use.
hope this helps.
I’ve heard of a plasterer putting boards on with foam my problem is, it’s flexible which could cause cracking,
Also how can you gauge it level if it’s expanding for next 5-10 mins?
Also you say it’s cleaner..... mix your dot and dab thick and it sticks to you trowel then wall them board! Have you seen how hard expanding foam is to get off your hands alone!!! And to be honest I’ve drywalled a room had quick sandwich and then threw a mix on no problem with movement.....
But look,
If you ask 10 different cooks you’ll get 10 different recipes 👌🏼
Adam Speed thanks for commenting, you can’t use drywall with this system and never on a damp wall as it will come through the dots, instastik only expands slightly and is kept in place by the props until it’s cured which is around 10min. We use a foam gun to apply it and there is no mess, if you do drop sum leave it 10 min until it’s hard, use rubber gloves when working. A goop tradesman would have no problem getting the wall straight if not then they won’t use the system, we just give you the information it’s up to you weather you benefit from it.
Have a great day.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW yes pal wasn’t saying it was wrong, like I said ask 10 people something you get 10 different answers
Adam Speed yes your 100% right with that 👍
How do I find someone who does this in Newcastle?
Go on the Property Care Association website and do a postcode search
i have got a proper damp wall and all paster is lumping and paint peeling.
can i buy a can of something to just drill the brick and inject inside or outside to fix it up cheap..
i cant afford to pay someone loads of money to fix it ...
It all depends on what the cause of the damp is. You need to know the cause. There are different types of damp that affect walls of buildings and each is a different system of repair.
It’s a bit like trying to treat a sore throat by putting a plaster on your neck. It’s the wrong thing to do.
Always found foam allows moisture to bridge across. Any sticking of plasterboards I've used a long 4x2 to force a flat surface over a larger area.
Hi Jeff thanks for your comments, not sure what you have been using the foam on or what method. The wall eventually dries out, foam does not bridge as it is impervious. Its like saying the sand and cement render bridges, but if you know how the transfer of moisture works you will see it doesnt. Again not sure what you use the 4x2 for either but thanks for watching.
Hi, thanks for the reply. The foam was used around a new door frame, so it was touching the external wall and the internal. I had damp patches around the frame on the wall. The 4 to 5 foot 4"x 2" stretched across the stuck plaster boards joins making sure the boards were level and not following any irregularities of the wall.
A lot of builders are using foam to stick things - but the best foam is the fireproof one or pink one! Someone commented about the foam allowing moisture through it but this is the first i have heard on this?
Hi, what are the props called to keep the boards in place?
If you search for plasterers props or builders props they should appear, tool station sell them
The plasterboard he stuck on is touching the floor. Isn't that going to conduct damp back into the board?
It’s a timber floor, so no
@@dampsam You think timber doesn't absorb and transmit damp??????
Most of the so called rising damp is simply condensation which always ends up around the lowest part of the room. The biggest cause is modern heating systems in old houses cycling on and off getting the air temperature up but not on for long enough to get the walls to the same temperature. Hence warm air condensing on cold walls
Andrew Woodhead we respect your opinion and there are a lot of properties where that is the problem on some walls, we find that there is always more than one type of issue and now there are different systems to address this. We still have to guarantee the work so it has to be right for at least 10 years.
Rising damp is condensation? Oh dear. Please see my post to Tom Davies below.
RUclips = denizen of the ignorant, the uneducated and the uninformed.
mate its a con and I here a little rumor that it going though parliament so stop wasting money on phoney ideas and I'm a tea man laterz pototoz
Hi Simon, been watching your videos 👍🏻, could you explain why you use insta stik, is it an alternative to the fixings Safeguard supply with the system ?
Also I have a damp partition or salt contaminated wall 🤷🏼♂️1930s house, black mortar, do I need to hack of & treat both sides of the wall or just one side ? Thanks Mark
Mark Davies hi thanks for watching, I use dry grip and insta stilk because the drygrip on its own takes about 30 mins to hold properly when the board is pressed against the wall. Instastik cures in 5-10 min. Insta has no initial substance to it tho but the drygrip does so they work in harmony. You can drill from one side of your wall if you drill to 20 mm off the far side.
What about the damp void and salts. Plasterboard will become damp. Just do the job right in the first place.
Oh dear , another one who can diagnose a job from his setee. 🤦🏻
Nonsense.... rising damp never been proved..... it always a reason why wall damg eg next door, blocked vents, not heated.. no need for a damp proof course on old property . And the foam fixing method what a load of crap.. dot and dab and mechanical fixings every time... dont listen to his rubbish
Carl Whitfield you do sound like you have some knowledge of methods and it’s good you like the old dot and dab method, BS6576 says re-plastering has to be an anti salt method but unfortunately salts would come through the dots. You will no dought have seen this on jobs before where you get wet circles where the dots are placed.
Why can`t peepol spel
"no need for a damp proof course on old property"
ROTFLMAO!
Please do some research before making such ill considered comments. Start with basic physics... ;-)
I pity your customers Carl.
@@dampsam So how do you cure the "salts" please and what are the salts?
So when you say the rising damp "comes up and evaporates to make it equilibrium with the rest of the masonry", does that mean that the moisture is evaporating in to the air pockets between the plasterboard and the wall?? If thats the case, then surely the moist air pockets are going to turn the plasterboard into a sponge and it'll start to degrade.. Not immediately but certainly over a few years...
Colin Fulker thank you for your question, water will rise then evaporate out of the wall from the point the new DPC is installed after the equilibrium will be reached with the rest of the wall. Water vapour as a gas travels through all materials except gas but at different rates. The amount coming out of the wall would not make it soggy. If however it was lateral moisture from something earth retaining this would be another matter. It’s not recommended for use below ground level or chimneys without a waterproof barrier.
Hope this helps, for confirmation try Safeguard Europe’s website as they invented the system. Thanks for watching.
Use breathable lime mortar and breathable lime plaster, accept that moisture is a fact of life, and that most 'rising damp' is in fact just condensation.
Tom Davies good morning and thank you for watching the video, we respect your comments and opinion. I full get that there is a market for re-plastering with lime plasters and I have used them in the past when the need arose. Get in contact and I’ll come have a coffee with you and we can discuss weather the new manufactured lime plasters produce any salts or weather it is best to slake your own lime as we did in the 80s. I’m sure your view will be interesting. Contact me via our website anytime.
Tom Davies I’d rather line over all that nasty PU foam
I have the exact problem it’s an old house with solid walls. I thought it was damp but in fact it is condensation. It driving us nuts. The wall has to stay completely clear and it not always practical. Anything comes close to the wall ie pieces of furniture it will eventually cause mold. Any ideas please without ripping the place off
wlondoner check out our videos on PIV units and also the blog on our website, it sounds like you may have high moisture levels inside the property for some reason. Thanks for watching
Rising damp is condensation? Utter nonsense!
Rising damp is simply capillary attraction of moisture from the (damp) ground into (drier, and, more importantly, porous) masonry above. It's why we use impermeable membranes (like plastic DPCs) to stop it, and why wainscotting was invented! (To cover up this unsightly problem in an age when Building Regs were unheard of.)
Ever wondered why wainscotting is only four feet high, when according to your theory the whole height of a cold wall should be dripping in condensation? It's because atmospheric pressure can only support a column of water of about this height in a porous medium before hydrostatic pressure pushes the water out of said material. I thought everybody knew this?
You know, if you don't even understand the principles of basic physics (in this case surface tension et al) you shouldn't be posting anything on RUclips, never mind giving 'advice' regarding this old chestnut. Sheesh!
RUclips = denizen of the ignorant, the uneducated and the uninformed.
Lol....wow this made me chuckle thanks for laughs
Great video thank you. We totally agree about the capillary action and salt treatment. Thank you please post more.
Simon Cole thank you so much for the comments, it’s nice to know people like what we are doing and it has a small place on here. 👍
no one else does, it was even on QI rising damp dont exist
The insta stick is it basically expanding foam .?
Neil bickerdike no, it’s a polyurethaning glue, it does expand slightly as a foam tho.
What sort of guarantee on the membrane? And what about the join line ? Surely the expanding foam is going to act like a sponge and going to create a problem?
The reply is a standard 10 Years same as all the guarantees, we use mesh across the joint. its the same mesh that is used on the joints of insulation for external render systems, there is not that movement though. the reason scrim is used on plasterboard joints on stud work is because the timber can move. Thanks for commenting and watchin.
Hi, my wall is painted with bitumen paint, can I still use foam and acrylic adhesive to fix to that? Or what's my best option doesn't seem like the paint would hold the weight?
I can’t really comment without seeing the job and getting more information.
I do a similar thing on isolated damp. But I use duplex board to prevent existing damp from sucking into the board been doing it for years this way an never had damp come back.
j baker what do you use to fix the board to the wall?
When you say duplex board do you mean foil backed ones?
@@dampsam hi yes foil back using foam or silo
j baker yes it’s damp principle but damp doesn’t soak into the board the water vapour passes through as a gas, it will go through the foil but at a slower rate,
Only thing I would say is make sure you put a salt neutraliser on the brickwork
Hi Simon, how would you fit skirting boards having done this? Do you plaster first? Reason I ask is that I'd imagine there's a little more 'give' using foam vs a plaster dab so would you risk cracking plaster when you fit skirting boards?
Hi Philip H, Just fit the skirting as you normally would, most joiners will stick them and pin them with the nail gun.
you can fit them first if you want but after too, either way is ok.
Sam I was hoping to pick your brains. So water runs under my house, there’s been special tracks made to take the water away down to the bottom of the house then into a 60mm drain pipe. (I think it’s a drain). Okay my concern is my wife gets sore heads all the time and my kids cough only when there I’m bed. Something nibbles away at my mind saying that’s where the problem lies?
You need to get a competent qualified specialist damp and ventilation surveyor to do a site visit
I’ll do that, thanks 🙏
Why dont you just revert back to its original construction and use lime?
In a nutshell this system is quicker, cheaper and easier to install, why would anyone not want to make things easier for themselves?
But how can the wall dry out? Moisture always diffuse into the pore structure over time. Making the wall cold. This doesn't really solve the issue but only masks the problem. Its kinda like having wet shoes and instead of drying it out you just put plastic on your feet
@@LiamGrubby for a few words then you actually sounded as if you knew your stuff and how moisture affects wall which is well documented by BRE amongst others including learned universities .
I’m not going to go into detail but water vapour as a gas will diffuse through the fabric of the building and will go through all materials except glass just at different rates due to a number of factors. With rising damp once the source of moisture is stopped by installing a dpc the remaining moisture evaporates out of the wall until the wall is in equilibrium with the rest of the room. I know this won’t change your view but it may show you that the system does work.. not every wall in the old buildings were built with lime mortar and lots where we are have black ash. A lot of people are just repeating arguments from other sources without all the information.
Hope this helps and makes some sense
I admire your out of the box solution. Many people will slate you for it, credit is where it is due! Well done! However, the expanding foams aren't waterproof.
No Rocket Science Build thanks for your comment, I think you will find the polyurethane foams don’t absorb water it’s a closed cell type of insulation. Thanks for watching.
Hi Sam have you ever used it come across this product? SIKA WATERPROOF COATING GREY 5KG (83502)
It’s on the screw fix website. I’m applying it to brickwork and then it’s being plastered over....
Major League Gamer good Morning, yes I’m aware of Sika products and this particular one. Some are brilliant for waterproofing and are one of the more expensive brands.
Why are you using this? Is the wall below ground level?
This is a polymodified slurry used in waterproofing/tankin.
I am not a fan of brushing this directly onto brickwork because people never prepare the background correctly.
You do know before applying this product they recommend you take out all the joints and re point the wall first, as well as brushing the surface with a wire brush to clear all debris. They also say any paint to be removed and in some cases scabbling or pressure wash the wall,
The way we use the slurry is to render the wall first and then apply 2 coats of this to the render. We also have a compressor to spray on the slurry.
There is a product called NatCem 35 which is a pre mixed render and this by passes the need to use the slurry as it is waterproof and sets in an hour. They use this in the tube in London for repairs.
Hope this helps have a great Sunday
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW I am using this to stop moister coming through from the cavity as I’m sure there is debris is there from when when brick work was originally done, it is just a precaution, I am also applying a cream dpc in case it is rising from the bottom
how do you stop the residual moisture from destroying the paper binding and plasterboard core?
attermire2109 when you say residual moisture what do you mean with this? Unless the wall is below ground level there should be no ingress as any moisture coming out of the wall will be in the form of water vapour(a gas) and this just goes through the plasterboard.
Ello mate. Have you done video on damp proofing interior partition walls?Also if you've got damp on the exterior walls...do you damp proof the outside or inside or both?Thanks. Mike
Hi, what sort of partition wall is it? Did you just mean an internal brick wall? If so this should be the same meathod as the others if it’s damp.
You can either drill and inject from inside or out, if you want you can do both,
You can use a long drill bit to double drill from one side, or you can drill and inject each skin separate from outside then in with a shorter drill bit. Hope this helps
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW hi thanks for info👍
So I can just use the rods for all outside, inside and internal walls? Is the rods ok and good or would you recommend injection? Sorry also why have you removed plaster and render on inside of main wall? Is this if the plaster is damaged?
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW sorry also. The house is in Wheatley hill. If I need you, would you travel that far for the job?
BIG MIK3 if the plaster is contaminated with salts from the ground if you don’t remove the plaster and replaster with a salt neutralising plaster then the salts will keep absorbing moisture from the air and continually spoil decoration,
Once the damp proof course is installed the masonary above can take up to 9-12 months to return to equilibrium.
If installed right the cream and dry sticks work the same, you don’t need an applicator for the sticks and you know you have the right amount in the wall.
BIG MIK3 we do all yorkshire and some Nottinghamshire, we would consider all jobs depending on what is needed where is Wheatley Hill,
Good vid mate ,can’t find Dry shield inhibiting cream anywhere unless u buy online Is there any equivalent to it
Hsilver dale it’s on Amazon, if you email me I’ll send you a link for everything dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com 👌
hi thank you so much for this informative video! we have a terraced house that we bought almost two years ago now and the damp and mould issues weren't picked up on the survey as the previous owner (a builder) had done a quick job to disguise them and move on. in our kitchen we have integrated appliances and one recently needed replacing. when we removed the washing machine we found there was no plaster behind the kitchen units, nothing but bare brick and plug sockets screwed into the brick work. the kitchen had been fitted first and then plastered around? never seen anything like it? its completely black with mould behind the units and in the dining area we have rising damp due to him plastering straight onto bare brick and straight down to the floor. we also looked into having the house insulated but the damp proofing he did outside wasn't high enough so could cause even more problems. is there any way for us to extend the damp proofing outside so it higher? also the inside were assuming everything needs ripping out below 1 metre and treated. do you recommend injecting the damp proof in the internal walls too? and where would you even start with this type of job? were in bolton so think we may be too far for you? thanks for any help and advice :) x
Hello Katie c
If you do a postcode search on the PCA website you will find your nearest competent damp-proof and remedial company that are members and will give you advise on seeing the property.
you could email us via the contact us form on our websire if you want us to come out.
What this guy is doing is crazy.you always keep plaster slabs 20mm up from ground level.this stops any damp on floors from rising. Drywall slabs do not stop damp they only cover it .Damp creates a fungus which is very bad for one's health. If u have damp penetrating from the outside you can treat walls with Sika or similar clear damp proofed. If you have to extend existing external insulation measure thickness of existing insulation ,cut new insulation to size and fix to wall with steel slab fixings. Check render and match new work. F. N
Frank Nally well spotted I can see you know your stuff, what you might not see is its a timber floor with a cellar below, and it's an internal dividing wall, hope this helps, oh and water vapour as a gas will travel through the fabric until all the dampness has evaporated from the wall after the installation of the damp proof course. I hope this helps you.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW - Hi Just a query how can you conclude rising damp if there is suspended floor and a cellar beneath? Typically rising damp will only travel approx. 1m in height from solid ground. The damp below timber floor should have dispersed within void of cellar.
the wall had a few issues going on with penetrating and rising damp near the front door with some bridging issues. there was a gap in the flooring that was also allowing cold damp air to bridge from the cellar. Again sorry for the poor sound quality these videos were made off the cuff and are not professionally made. they are impulsive but we are a professional company and know about damp issues.
I'm in the process of re-plastering two walls in a terrace built 1910ish, one is external, one joins the adjacent property they are both above a concrete floor. The bricks are wet, the old plaster was soaking wet in parts and in one spot, high on external wall had salt deposit. Hard to determine the causes (for none tradesman like me). Next to pipework (which was wet, but no obvious leaks now excavated), below a bathroom, render on external wall has (had) some holes, old plaster was patchy, some sand and cement mix, lots of bonding (other mixes??) the old bitchmin damp proof course at ground level was falling apart, plaster was touching concrete floor.... so obviously talking to a damp specialist to help.
This technique seems like a brilliant idea.
Are there any reasons not to use it? e.g. how durable is Insta Stik? Is it easy to make sure the boards are level as Insta Stick expands.
What are the acrylic dots for? As you applied the Insta Stik to the side of the dots (sorry if this is explained in the video) but does the Insta Stick expand over those dots?
John Winstanley I wouldn’t used this system below ground level unless the area has had a barrier system applied Nat Cem 35 or similar.
You need Plasterers props to hold the boards in place although safeguard do a plug that goes with the system to hold the board in place.
The acrylic has more initial substance and holds the board slightly off the wall, the acrylic takes over half an hour to grab whereas the instastik takes 5-10min. Once the acrylics does grab though it takes some getting off.
Thanks for you support hope this helps👍