The most popular Carbine in the N-SSA. An excellent arm. Sturdy, tough, easy to repair. Fun to shoot. Cartridges easily available from S&S Firearms, Lodgewood and others. Taylor’s has spare parts for them. You can easily bust a bathroom tile at 100 yards with practice.
I've watched a half dozen of you videos in the last couple of days. They are uniformly informative, intelligent and to the point. My compliments. I will continue as a fan of yours.
So I wonder what was the actual reason for the carbines failure back then? I know the repro's seem to be very reliable. 11th OVC you're outstanding in these videos. Thank you.
Coming from a Infantry reenactor experience we have more time, better environments, better cleaning solutions than they did. If I had to guess it was a flash channel obstruction due to buildup. These days you could probably get all of those back up and running properly.
@@Mag_Aoidh There seems to be many of the original Smiths still being used in N-SSA skirmish events. I shoot my original 2nd model Maynard every week with no issues and it's very accurate. I'm just a N-SSA forum member(visitor) not a skirmisher. I hope to get a Smith carbine someday soon.
I bought one of the very early Smith reproductions for mounted cavalry reenactment and I still have it. I believe the rifle was made by Pietta and although the outside fit and finish was excellent, the barrel was very poorly bored and rifled. At just about any range my bullets would go through the paper targets sideways. This was unacceptable so I contacted Navy Arms and to my amazement and deep sense of honor, I was connected to the Great Man himself where I received a very nasty string of abuse and got hung up on. I then found a gunsmith in PA who would bore my barrel out and put in a precision liner with the authentic bore, rifling and twist. It has shot extremely accurately ever since. Of course, I would lose the front sight blade when mounted on horseback, but they were easy to make. For reenactment, it is not necessary to have an accurate bore, but an important part of my goal was to get very familiar with the technology of the period and see for myself just how effective the issued firearms were in battle. My arms had to meet period standards of accuracy and reliability. I too experienced a lot of misfires with the Smith at first. Through detailed examination, I came to the conclusion that the problem with misfiring was due to the very long channel that the hot gas from the primer had to go through and the brand of musket cap I was using was very important. So called "hot" caps that made a lot of noise, were absolutely useless, but good quality standard musket caps were the best. I found that it is best NOT to try to take the nipple off and clean the channel, especially with water. If the channel seems to be clogged, it should be blown out with the breech open and a cap discharging its gas directly to the atmosphere. Clean the barrel, but not the primer's channel. If you are rather anal about cleaning and "must" clean the channel, open the breech and fire three or more caps to "dirty it up" before attempting live cartridges. It is my theory that the fouling from the caps leaves a thin layer in the channel that doesn't tend to build up, but insulates the hot gas and keeps it hot enough to set off the black powder at the base of the cartridge. Without this insulating layer, the gas cools below the temperature that will set off black powder. REAL black powder must be used in the cartridge because the low temperature gas from the cap is not hot enough to set off modern substitutes unless a couple of grains of real powder is placed at the base of the cartridge and is thus it must be there to act as a "primer." Eventually the piece will wear so that it feels a bit loose when closed, but that has no effect on the accuracy or the operation of the rifle. Finally, to keep fine grain (FFF) powder from leaking out the primer hole, I would cover the back of the cartridge with Scotch Magic tape that was easily penetrated by the primer gases. Also, compressing the black powder on loading seemed to work pretty well too.
It's important to thoroughly clean out the rather long passage between nipple and rear of the breech, for reliable operation. Damp pipe cleaners work well.
Very nice of you to show such old fashioned American break barrel rifles from the American Civil War. But can you show the first rifles, break-barreled pistols so I can find out if they were invented by Gilbert Smith or other firearms makers in Europe or England
I found an original Smith for less than $2k. It is in excellent condition, great wood, high % of blue and even higher % of case color, but someone had hammered on the muzzle and slightly peened it on both the inside and outside. Why would someone do that?? To solve the problem on the inside of the muzzle I slightly crowned it. It's a good shooter and fairly accurate. I use .515 365 gr swaged bullets and 35 gr of FF replica powder (Clean Shot). As I mentioned in a previous comment I seal the ignition hole with round scotch tape I knock out with a paper punch.
I shoot an original Smith I bought online for less than $2000. While the gun is in excellent condition, Great wood, with a high % of blue and an even higher % of case color, the muzzle had been hammered on and slightly peened. What in the world for I have no idea. So I needed to do a little gunsmithing....to remedy the problem on the inside of the muzzle, I slightly crowned it. It's a great shooter and accurate. I'm using .515 365 gr swaged bullets and 35 gr of FF replica powder (Clean Shot). As I mentioned in a previous post, I seal the ignition hole with round scotch tape I knock out with a paper punch.
Hi, I own one of the smith carbines, a real civil war gun. It is like any other black powder weapon, keep it clean, take care of the ammo, and it most definitely will fire, like 99+% of the time.
Thank you, that was very interesting and informative. I like the Smith Carbine by Pietta, but they're not readily available. The Sharps, all percussion versions, by Pedersoli & ArmiSport, are. I like them both!
In 1977 at an auction in Pennsylvania, I bought a Smith Carbine in excellent condition for $70. I asked the other bidder why he quit and he said he was interested in the other carbine and a Tower shotgun so he said, "I figured if I let you buy the first one, I could get the other two." I had $75 in my wallet. He got the other two. I too, loved the Smith for its easy loading and cleaning. I used Dixie neoprene cartridges and never had a misfire. My one complaint was I used to say that if you tied it to a tree and hooked a 100 foot cable to the trigger and your Jeep, and floored it, you could generally get the thing to go off. The trigger pull was absurd. Many years later I ran into money problems and sold it for $750 but still regret that decision. I suspect today that rifle would bring about $1500???
Could anyone help me just found out my great grandfather was in the 64th VA mounted infinity. What carbines did they use? Would love to save up and have one correct to his unit. Also he was captured in Cumberland Gap on September 9th 1863. Thank you love this channel and thinking about re-enactments would be a lot of fun and rewarding.
Ronnie, unfortunately, we do not have access to much in the realm of confederate documents. If we run across the 64th, we will definitely let you know! Sorry we couldn't help much.
had a pietta i bought brand new around 12 years ago . love the Smith , however i shot all over the place . i eventually sold it . I heard they shoot better now i would def love to get another if that’s true
i like a good enfield musketoon actually.. it what i started out with but i did have a smith for a little while.. but then i could not keep the payments up and i had to return it and i finally got another musketoon.. this time i got a 1856 tower musketoon... that is only 5 lbs.. its really light.. but.. it is a smooth bore .. i think its a .58 cal...
So the Smith pretty much had the same issues as the XM16E1 did. When I load my Smith cartrages i place a small square of newspaperover the hole inside the case before i pour in 40g of FFFG powder.
Land of the brave, I wish there were too! However, like jean, some in our unit purchase originals that are pretty beat up for reenacting. They are generally cheaper than any other reproduction carbine. There was a run of reproductions a decade or so ago and those tend to be more expensive than originals!
I own a reproduction of the 2nd model Maynard. It was made by a guy out of Ohio who has since died. These reproduction are out there & for sale now & then. Regimental Quartermaster in Gettysburg, PA used to sell them & not sure if they still do.
I have a Smith Carbine made by the gunsmith Mr.YECK from the North South Skirmish Association. I shoot a nylon cartridge from Lodgewood Mfg. and it is fast handling and accurate. It is easily cleaned, accurate, reliable and I would not hesitate to use it against live game or target competition. One my favorite firearms and popular with everybody that shoots it. I load if with 35 grains of Goex FFFG black powder. An excellent Military arm in every sense of the word.
That's because most younger folks are to busy in front of computer or phone screens. Many younger folks think everyone from the time period were evil. Most have no interest in history as they rather believe what they are told to believe. The older folks have free time, an interest in more than who some musician divorced this week, better-managed money, and years of good food.
Late comer, but you are quite correct. Did anyone else notice that in the film, "Gettysburg" there were way too many overweight, middle aged Confederates, straining seams, & buttons, charging up little round top? No wonder the yankees won that one!😂
Those fat, old guys are helping to keep history alive by educating people. My recommendation for those that criticize on the grounds of weight and historical accuracy is to look at the big picture. The war was fought by people of all ages and classes. Family against family over ideals that have been lost to the new generations because of sensationalized radicalization. Maybe, just maybe, you should just watch a video without showing your prickistic judgement.
You can make self consuming paper blanks for the smith. But it is very time consuming and tedious. You can seal the flash hole with a dap of rubber cement. S and S firearms sells both plastic blanks for the smith and you can but thebplastic 58 cal tubes cut the kip off the drill out a flash hole prime with powder seal with a dab of cotton elemers glue use a dab of rubber cement to seal the flash hole.
You mentioned in the vid that you also use your Smith for hunting. What kind of hunting do you do with a Smith? I’ve been trying to find the ballistics for the Smith load on line but can’t. Any idea what they may be?
William, if you google search "Smith Carbine Load Balistics" you will find some good sources. Otherwise, here is a small discussion on the subject: www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/archive/index.php/t-12512.html
where do you get paper cartridges or how do you make them ... have you tried to put cigarettes paper or sharp paper over the hole to keep in the power ..
Bryan, great question. For the most part, we do not cover the flash hole on our black rubber cases with any paper. If we know that the cartridges will be stored for a long time, then we have used cut out squares of cigarette paper. However, this is very time consuming and if using 2F or 3F powder, should not be an issue. We do not use paper cartridges for our smith.
This gun was used by Dr Henry Wheeler of Northfield, MN to kill Clell Miller and to wound ( horribly ) Bob Younger in the elbow. The famous raid on the bank in 1876.
Nope. That's the boys from Taxadoucheshits thumbing it down. Rebs are giving this a thumbs up because it's a temperamental, ill designed piece of crap. Especially us Indian rebs because guns that don't go band let us get in with tomahawks.
Just be careful not to let me down. I think for the second or third time you are misleading me if I listen to your mind. It's not bad, it's good, it's effective, but you have to calculate well the strength, skills, knowledge and amount of the enemy army, military detachment, farmer's criminal gang or whatever the enemy is. It may turn out to be very effective against one type of enemy in terms of skills, armament, quantity, but against another type of enemy in terms of skills, armament and quantity, it may simply not be appropriate. So sometimes if I don't pay attention to you, you already understand why.
The most popular Carbine in the N-SSA. An excellent arm. Sturdy, tough, easy to repair. Fun to shoot. Cartridges easily available from S&S Firearms, Lodgewood and others. Taylor’s has spare parts for them. You can easily bust a bathroom tile at 100 yards with practice.
I just bought one made by Pietta. It is beautiful. Have not shot it yet.
I've watched a half dozen of you videos in the last couple of days. They are uniformly informative, intelligent and to the point. My compliments. I will continue as a fan of yours.
Please do a more in depth history of the Smith!
So I wonder what was the actual reason for the carbines failure back then? I know the repro's seem to be very reliable.
11th OVC you're outstanding in these videos. Thank you.
Coming from a Infantry reenactor experience we have more time, better environments, better cleaning solutions than they did. If I had to guess it was a flash channel obstruction due to buildup. These days you could probably get all of those back up and running properly.
@@Mag_Aoidh There seems to be many of the original Smiths still being used in N-SSA skirmish events. I shoot my original 2nd model Maynard every week with no issues and it's very accurate. I'm just a N-SSA forum member(visitor) not a skirmisher. I hope to get a Smith carbine someday soon.
I bought one of the very early Smith reproductions for mounted cavalry reenactment and I still have it. I believe the rifle was made by Pietta and although the outside fit and finish was excellent, the barrel was very poorly bored and rifled. At just about any range my bullets would go through the paper targets sideways. This was unacceptable so I contacted Navy Arms and to my amazement and deep sense of honor, I was connected to the Great Man himself where I received a very nasty string of abuse and got hung up on. I then found a gunsmith in PA who would bore my barrel out and put in a precision liner with the authentic bore, rifling and twist. It has shot extremely accurately ever since. Of course, I would lose the front sight blade when mounted on horseback, but they were easy to make. For reenactment, it is not necessary to have an accurate bore, but an important part of my goal was to get very familiar with the technology of the period and see for myself just how effective the issued firearms were in battle. My arms had to meet period standards of accuracy and reliability.
I too experienced a lot of misfires with the Smith at first. Through detailed examination, I came to the conclusion that the problem with misfiring was due to the very long channel that the hot gas from the primer had to go through and the brand of musket cap I was using was very important. So called "hot" caps that made a lot of noise, were absolutely useless, but good quality standard musket caps were the best. I found that it is best NOT to try to take the nipple off and clean the channel, especially with water. If the channel seems to be clogged, it should be blown out with the breech open and a cap discharging its gas directly to the atmosphere. Clean the barrel, but not the primer's channel. If you are rather anal about cleaning and "must" clean the channel, open the breech and fire three or more caps to "dirty it up" before attempting live cartridges. It is my theory that the fouling from the caps leaves a thin layer in the channel that doesn't tend to build up, but insulates the hot gas and keeps it hot enough to set off the black powder at the base of the cartridge. Without this insulating layer, the gas cools below the temperature that will set off black powder. REAL black powder must be used in the cartridge because the low temperature gas from the cap is not hot enough to set off modern substitutes unless a couple of grains of real powder is placed at the base of the cartridge and is thus it must be there to act as a "primer."
Eventually the piece will wear so that it feels a bit loose when closed, but that has no effect on the accuracy or the operation of the rifle. Finally, to keep fine grain (FFF) powder from leaking out the primer hole, I would cover the back of the cartridge with Scotch Magic tape that was easily penetrated by the primer gases. Also, compressing the black powder on loading seemed to work pretty well too.
It's important to thoroughly clean out the rather long passage between nipple and rear of the breech, for reliable operation. Damp pipe cleaners work well.
Great video nice job explaining everything about the Smith Carbine I want one,also nice period correct uniform.
Great video
Colonel Sergeant is a cool name. I served in the US Army and met a Sergeant who's name was Major.
Very nice of you to show such old fashioned American break barrel rifles from the American Civil War. But can you show the first rifles, break-barreled pistols so I can find out if they were invented by Gilbert Smith or other firearms makers in Europe or England
I found an original Smith for less than $2k. It is in excellent condition, great wood, high % of blue and even higher % of case color, but someone had hammered on the muzzle and slightly peened it on both the inside and outside. Why would someone do that?? To solve the problem on the inside of the muzzle I slightly crowned it. It's a good shooter and fairly accurate. I use .515 365 gr swaged bullets and 35 gr of FF replica powder (Clean Shot). As I mentioned in a previous comment I seal the ignition hole with round scotch tape I knock out with a paper punch.
Great video! The rate of fire
is amazing compared to my 1861 Springfield.
I shoot an original Smith I bought online for less than $2000. While the gun is in excellent condition, Great wood, with a high % of blue and an even higher % of case color, the muzzle had been hammered on and slightly peened. What in the world for I have no idea. So I needed to do a little gunsmithing....to remedy the problem on the inside of the muzzle, I slightly crowned it. It's a great shooter and accurate. I'm using .515 365 gr swaged bullets and 35 gr of FF replica powder (Clean Shot). As I mentioned in a previous post, I seal the ignition hole with round scotch tape I knock out with a paper punch.
This was a interesting arm. Good video
Hi, I own one of the smith carbines, a real civil war gun. It is like any other black powder weapon, keep it clean, take care of the ammo, and it most definitely will fire, like 99+% of the time.
Thank you, that was very interesting and informative. I like the Smith Carbine by Pietta, but they're not readily available. The Sharps, all percussion versions, by Pedersoli & ArmiSport, are. I like them both!
Co. I of the 11th KS Cavalry was armed with Smith Carbines at the battle of platte bridge
Great Video Yank! Thanks for the wealth of info. Keep em commin. Where do you get your cartridges.
I wish I lived somewhere that theres reenactments. I would love to do that
The smith carbine repro by pietta is also more affordable than a percussion sharps carbine repro by pedersoli
In 1977 at an auction in Pennsylvania, I bought a Smith Carbine in excellent condition for $70. I asked the other bidder why he quit and he said he was interested in the other carbine and a Tower shotgun so he said, "I figured if I let you buy the first one, I could get the other two." I had $75 in my wallet. He got the other two. I too, loved the Smith for its easy loading and cleaning. I used Dixie neoprene cartridges and never had a misfire. My one complaint was I used to say that if you tied it to a tree and hooked a 100 foot cable to the trigger and your Jeep, and floored it, you could generally get the thing to go off. The trigger pull was absurd. Many years later I ran into money problems and sold it for $750 but still regret that decision. I suspect today that rifle would bring about $1500???
Could anyone help me just found out my great grandfather was in the 64th VA mounted infinity. What carbines did they use? Would love to save up and have one correct to his unit. Also he was captured in Cumberland Gap on September 9th 1863. Thank you love this channel and thinking about re-enactments would be a lot of fun and rewarding.
Ronnie, unfortunately, we do not have access to much in the realm of confederate documents. If we run across the 64th, we will definitely let you know! Sorry we couldn't help much.
With the spencer you can put more rounds down range than with the smith rifle. Which gave the union the advantage over their opponents.
Good stuff 😊
I use regular scotch tape to seal the ignition hole on the cartridges. I use a paper punch on a roll of tape, works great.
had a pietta i bought brand new around 12 years ago . love the Smith , however i shot all over the place . i eventually sold it . I heard they shoot better now i would def love to get another if that’s true
i like a good enfield musketoon actually.. it what i started out with but i did have a smith for a little while.. but then i could not keep the payments up and i had to return it and i finally got another musketoon.. this time i got a 1856 tower musketoon... that is only 5 lbs.. its really light.. but.. it is a smooth bore .. i think its a .58 cal...
So the Smith pretty much had the same issues as the XM16E1 did. When I load my Smith cartrages i place a small square of newspaperover the hole inside the case before i pour in 40g of FFFG powder.
they do make brass cases for the Smith
And even lighter and easier to use is the Maynard! Great video.
Hey Jean! Agreed on the Maynard! We will be covering that one too!
Land of the brave, I wish there were too! However, like jean, some in our unit purchase originals that are pretty beat up for reenacting. They are generally cheaper than any other reproduction carbine. There was a run of reproductions a decade or so ago and those tend to be more expensive than originals!
I own a reproduction of the 2nd model Maynard. It was made by a guy out of Ohio who has since died. These reproduction are out there & for sale now & then. Regimental Quartermaster in Gettysburg, PA used to sell them & not sure if they still do.
I have a Smith Carbine made by the gunsmith Mr.YECK from the North South Skirmish Association. I shoot a nylon cartridge from Lodgewood Mfg. and it is fast handling and accurate. It is easily cleaned, accurate, reliable and I would not hesitate to use it against live game or target competition. One my favorite firearms and popular with everybody that shoots it. I load if with 35 grains of Goex FFFG black powder.
An excellent Military arm in every sense of the word.
Look, a reenactor who actually looks authentic! I.e. not overweight and old!!
That's because most younger folks are to busy in front of computer or phone screens. Many younger folks think everyone from the time period were evil. Most have no interest in history as they rather believe what they are told to believe. The older folks have free time, an interest in more than who some musician divorced this week, better-managed money, and years of good food.
I've always been a little leery of people into the whole war play thing. Very odd ducks.
Late comer, but you are quite correct.
Did anyone else notice that in the film, "Gettysburg" there were way too many overweight, middle aged Confederates, straining seams, & buttons, charging up little round top?
No wonder the yankees won that one!😂
Those fat, old guys are helping to keep history alive by educating people. My recommendation for those that criticize on the grounds of weight and historical accuracy is to look at the big picture. The war was fought by people of all ages and classes. Family against family over ideals that have been lost to the new generations because of sensationalized radicalization. Maybe, just maybe, you should just watch a video without showing your prickistic judgement.
You can make self consuming paper blanks for the smith. But it is very time consuming and tedious. You can seal the flash hole with a dap of rubber cement. S and S firearms sells both plastic blanks for the smith and you can but thebplastic 58 cal tubes cut the kip off the drill out a flash hole prime with powder seal with a dab of cotton elemers glue use a dab of rubber cement to seal the flash hole.
It sounds like they should have ordered them to clean their Smith carbines and properly carry the ammunition in the cartridge box.
You mentioned in the vid that you also use your Smith for hunting. What kind of hunting do you do with a Smith? I’ve been trying to find the ballistics for the Smith load on line but can’t. Any idea what they may be?
William, if you google search "Smith Carbine Load Balistics" you will find some good sources. Otherwise, here is a small discussion on the subject:
www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/archive/index.php/t-12512.html
I think that putting a cap on that gun in the saddle would be difficult. It is easier to load then a muzzle loader but not the non cap carbines.
The Yankee Cavalry in our society used steel cartridges in their Smith Carbines my buddy Indian Bob had one
Does anyone know what the 6th NY Cavalry used for a carbine?
They were primarily issued Sharps Carbines. Even up to the end of 1864, they still had the Sharps
@@11thovc Thanks 11th OVC.
Have you folks ever made a video about how to create and load blanks for reenacting in the Smith Carbine?
Dixie gun works.
*LIKED* another fine and informative video OVC - see you in the field or around the camp fire pards --- *1st Minn Sharpshooters*
where do you get paper cartridges or how do you make them ... have you tried to put cigarettes paper or sharp paper over the hole to keep in the power ..
Bryan, great question. For the most part, we do not cover the flash hole on our black rubber cases with any paper. If we know that the cartridges will be stored for a long time, then we have used cut out squares of cigarette paper. However, this is very time consuming and if using 2F or 3F powder, should not be an issue. We do not use paper cartridges for our smith.
Will you be posting a video on fighting with the saber.....horse back and on foot? The saber manual of arms, parries, and attacks, movements, etc?
like that weapon 👍semper fi
I was in the 2nd South Carolina,,Reenactment regiment UK ACWS,,,
👍
This gun was used by Dr Henry Wheeler of Northfield, MN to kill Clell Miller and to wound ( horribly ) Bob Younger in the elbow. The famous raid on the bank in 1876.
And if he'd had at least one more cartridge he'd have gotten another one.
And as a member of the N-SSA I also love the Smith, but the Maynard is even better, it is light wgt.
Did this American inventor Smith invent the first breaker-charger rifle barrel in the world
As upon 12-19-2019, a total of 5 Confederates have given this video a thumbs down. Long live the Union!
Nope. That's the boys from Taxadoucheshits thumbing it down. Rebs are giving this a thumbs up because it's a temperamental, ill designed piece of crap. Especially us Indian rebs because guns that don't go band let us get in with tomahawks.
Did the confederate force's ever use them l used to have a Enfield Musketoon,
The guns need cleaned,,
Too bad the location of the cartridge box on the person and you had to be a contortionist to access it.
Just be careful not to let me down. I think for the second or third time you are misleading me if I listen to your mind. It's not bad, it's good, it's effective, but you have to calculate well the strength, skills, knowledge and amount of the enemy army, military detachment, farmer's criminal gang or whatever the enemy is. It may turn out to be very effective against one type of enemy in terms of skills, armament, quantity, but against another type of enemy in terms of skills, armament and quantity, it may simply not be appropriate. So sometimes if I don't pay attention to you, you already understand why.
Cringe comment
Mucho.. bla, bla, bla, y poco bamm!! bamm!! bamm!!