Just bought a beautiful original Smith Carbine and just gathering the supplies so great to run across your channel. I'll be picking up a mold, already got cartridges from Lodgewood. Thanks, really loved your video, thanks for your work.
Mark is a solid guy, I'm a newbie to black powder and he was more than informative and kind. Thanks again, maybe make a video on disassembling and cleaning the Smith Carbine. Take care.
Excellent video! I'll have to try your method. I currently use a wooden dowel that's a slightly smaller diameter than the black nylon case and press a small square piece of very thin decorative tissue into the case that forms a cup at the bottom. I usually load 30 gains of 3F powder into cup and press a .515 sized Eras Gone Smith bullet on top. The tissue cup prevents any powder from escaping through the vent hole. The tissue paper is so thin that I've never had a percussion cap not set off the main powder charge. I've shot many hundreds of these Smith cartridges and I've had 100% success so far.
Before I started adding the bushing I did something similar. Later I started using a tiny bit of scotch tape over the hole on the outside. The cap will puncture it, but I did not temp fate and pierced the tape with a needle after I got to the range.
Here is a suggestion for installing the break stem rivet into the case. Cut a length of steel or stainless steel tubing (tubing inside diameter to just clear stem diameter) about a 1/4" longer than the pull stem. Use it as a punch to drive on the head of the rivet. Once flush, drive the pull stem out of the rivet. Easy peasey! Yet another 'suggestion' in regard to the 'coil type' hot plates. (Don't let your significant other know...) Just use an 8" or 10" cast iron frying pan (or other flat iron or steel plate) on top of the coil in order to have a good, smooth and flat, thermal mass for warming the lube and bullets. Ken
Appreciate your “channel,” expertise and insights. Used brass, red and black. Prefer black with rivets. Was about to experiment with paper. Keep up insightful work.
Haven't watched the video yet, but I'm sure it will be great! Thanks for making these videos! Edit: Just watched and is very informative for Smith Carbine users. Very well made in depth detail on one of the best ways to make Smith Carbine rounds. Thank you, and see you next time.
i know Im asking randomly but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Jermaine Zaid I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks, Mark. My Smith arrived just in time for Vivid to shut the range down, and I have not found the enthusiasm to mold bullets. I think I just got some motivation! I appreciate that. If the paper cartridges work out, do you think they would hold a full service charge? I know, a target load is better for accuracy and economy, but I like to shoot service loads on occasion, too.
Great video, very interesting. I shoot an original Smith in the N-SSA, I’ve been using the black nylon cases for years, I think I got them from Lodgewood Mfg, is there any reason I can’t lube first, then size like I do with my mini’s? I’ve tried both ways with my mini’s and found it to be less of a mess after a match. I really like the rivet idea, I’ve been putting small “dot stickers” on the vent and then poke them with a my vent pick just prior to a match which can be a pain in the ass especially if I forget😒
Back at ya.. we need to get info on how to swage a Burnside case I am a pretty good machinist I feel the CNC tubes are to expensive tubing or sheet copper may be the way but need to find info on dies. Think you could help?
About adding that bushing in the bottom of the plastic case... The pop rivet housing. I am currently doing that now with my 1862 early model 1857 Smith. The problem I have with mine is that it makes the plastic cartridge too tight to easily close the breach. I don't want to force it against the spring strap. I even took a little bit down off of the back side of the bushing, the part that sticks out towards the primer hole in the gun, to make it flatter and fit flusher against the back side of the breach. Still too tight. What I am doing now is taking down a little bit of the plastic housing on the front end so it will go slightly further into the breach, and give a little extra room for the pop rivet housing to live in the back part of the breach when the barrel is closed and locked. Did you have to do this with yours? I am using the same black plastic housings that you seem to have, I got mine from Dixie, but I think they are the same that SS, etc., sells.
I've never had that problem with mine. Are you seating the rivet as flush to the base of the cartridge as possible? I've found that on the first firing it will flatten out completely.
Thanks for posting this Mark. I’m a new Smith shooter and on my first year with the N-SSA. I was taught to use cream of wheat as a filler and to use a sticker to cover the vent hole. Thoughts on this versus your proces?
Just a sugestion, why not use a paste made of colodion and black powder to fill the ignition hole? Let dry and then load the cartridge? I use colodion to make waterproof and promote the ignition of my paper cartridges, it should work with cartridges for Smith carbine, I think...
when you seat the bullet as in the video, is there any air space remaining in the cartridge? I noticed you didn't use a wad, filler, etc. but I don't know if you are contacting the powder already (thus don't need any filler) but if you could clarify that I'd be grateful.
I mention the size at about 6:15, but I should have put it up to read also. These measure .090 (3/32) on the hollow shank. According the the charts I've found that would make ia #32 pop rivet.
I had been into BP as a young man, and have been heavily into firearms ever since. I have not shot a BP revolve since that time and was wondering about the accuracy potential of the BP revolver currently made. I had an Army .44 that shot very well back then. I hunt exclusively with handguns and wondered about your recommendations for a deer grade BP revolver. 8” or less because I normally use 6” modern smith revolvers. Thanks.....
If you were to buy only one BP reproduction revolver, I would suggest the Uberti Remingtion. With a full load and conical bullet it will offer good power and accuracy. It will be hard to out shoot a good modern Smith & Wesson revolver, but I typically can outshoot my m1911s and 9mm with my percussion revolver.
That’s great suggested info. And yes, I intend to get only one revolver for now. Thanks. I make my BP (using cotton for the charcoal and it’s fast). I only have one other Muzzeloader (JBMR in .50) but I make plenty black powder cartridges for use in modern firearms. Thanks again.......
Thanks for the great videos and recreating these historic products ! I had a question about the 55 because I heard it should never be used for BP because of static on the plastic hopper .. Is that BS about the BP ? Also- how does the grain weight from the scale compare to your brass powder volume measure ? I’ve never checked it out on FFF
Mark, I had my brass cases turned to fit the .518. Yes, expensive, some, Yet, they've become my very favorite Smith case. As to cleaning my brass Smith cases, well I clean lots of brass at my reloading bench. I use all three; nylon, rubber, and brass with good success in both my Pietta Smith and my original. Where did you get your heater used in this video, please? Thanks again for a truly informative video, sir.
That would be the ultimate permanent fix. If someone has a lathe available that would be the perfect solution for using these bullet right out of the mold.
I find all your videos very informative. I am just getting back into blackpowder shooting after a 30 year absence. I have a question unrelated to the topic of this video. What is the tune that is played during your video intro? It is really beautiful. I hope it's part of a bigger piece.
Tom, that is a instrumental snippet of "Hard Times Come Again No More" by Steven Foster. He wrote in 1855 during the midst of a deep economic depression in the US. Here is a pretty version with vocals. ruclips.net/video/fGM7BYRXGps/видео.html
Thanks so much! I just ordered the Alisa Jones Wildwood Flower CD. That vocal version you linked is very nice also. Now I'm trying to decide between a Uberti 1860 Colt or an 1858 Remington Army to get into shooting again.
@@tomp7141 If you can only get one BP revolver, I would suggetst the Uberti Remington. It is a little more versitle. However, after you get one, many more are likely to follow.
Very true about cap and balls propagating. At one point years ago I had a 44 "navy", 44 Remington, two 1860 Colts, and an 1861 Colt. Had to part with them to pay college expenses. I think I liked the Remington best though the large grips on the 1860 Colt fit my hands better. I used to walk our hayfields shooting groundhogs and rabbits. My eyes aren't what they used to be!
Yes, the plastic cases are designed for target loads. Max is about 30-35 grains depending on the bullet. However, if you hand twist a 1/2 inch drill bit into the case you can deepen it up to 45-50 grains. Doing that will preclude you using the bushing and will probably shorten the life of the case.
I just clean them in hot soapy water. I recently bought a rotating tumbler with stainless steel pin media. I will try that next time. I bet they will come out factory clean after tumbling.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Thanks for reply. When using new black plastic cases on my original Maynard the action is somewhat hard to close as compared to my brass. Have you had that issue? Thanks Mark.
Can I assume that you size the bullets without any lubricant? I've got a mold and sizer for my .577 Enfield and I thought I was going to need to at least lubricate the bullets with something like Alox before I sized them.
Yes, in this case I did. I only had to size down from .518 to .515 so they are easy to size without lubricant If I had to size them down much more than that, lube might be needed to make it easier. In that case I would lube first and then size.
The bullet itself really needs to have grease in the groove to be effective. Plus the capacity of these cases are so low, that a lubricated wad would take up too much of that limited powder space.
I would suggest cutting the rod on the rivet off a bit shorter first. Then tapping in into the hole. You might have to lightly file the rod after cutting. Also in terms of flairing the inside of the touchhole one would have thought that using a punch ( the sort you use to mark metal for drilling) to give it a light tap would give a useful result.
Yes, if one bends I cut it off to make it easier. When I hold it more securely and I'm not trying to keep the action visible to the camera, I seldom have one bend.
I tried to have a Tranter bullet mold made, which is similar to the LeMat, however there were some design issued which prevents it being cut on the CNC machines that LEE uses for its molds. Also, since the reproduction LeMatt is in .44 instead of its original caliber of .41, the bullet could not be an authentic copy of the original.
The link is in the description of the video above, or visit the website at www.erasgonebullets.com. Click on the "store" button and you will see the smith molds listed. Thanks
Every gun owner about the most dangerous gun bill in US history. HR127 Every gun and piece of ammo in the US has to be registered. Nothing is grandfathered. Where you bought it, where it's stored, $50,000-$100,000 fines. 1-10 years in prison. Background check and psychological tests for family members. $800 insurance per year. That's just a small part of it.
Thanks Mark! Very informative! We may all be Smith’s shooters before it’s all over.
Just bought a beautiful original Smith Carbine and just gathering the supplies so great to run across your channel. I'll be picking up a mold, already got cartridges from Lodgewood.
Thanks, really loved your video, thanks for your work.
Been using metal cases for 40 years to great effect. BTW Metal cases can be opened up so you can use any size bullet.
Mark is a solid guy, I'm a newbie to black powder and he was more than informative and kind. Thanks again, maybe make a video on disassembling and cleaning the Smith Carbine. Take care.
I am interested in getting into black powder. I did not even know that such a Gun existed. Thank you for your knowledge.
Thanks Mark! We all really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge.
Excellent video! I'll have to try your method. I currently use a wooden dowel that's a slightly smaller diameter than the black nylon case and press a small square piece of very thin decorative tissue into the case that forms a cup at the bottom. I usually load 30 gains of 3F powder into cup and press a .515 sized Eras Gone Smith bullet on top. The tissue cup prevents any powder from escaping through the vent hole. The tissue paper is so thin that I've never had a percussion cap not set off the main powder charge. I've shot many hundreds of these Smith cartridges and I've had 100% success so far.
Before I started adding the bushing I did something similar. Later I started using a tiny bit of scotch tape over the hole on the outside. The cap will puncture it, but I did not temp fate and pierced the tape with a needle after I got to the range.
What about cutting a small circle of flash paper to cover the hole inside the cartridge? Has anyone tried that?
Your content is very interesting. I just ordered two more of your molds. You shipped almost immediately afterward. Great stuff.
I just ordered your mold for my Pietta Smith i just acquired. Im rounding up all I need to get this baby printing tight groups. Thank you for posting.
Here is a suggestion for installing the break stem rivet into the case. Cut a length of steel or stainless steel tubing (tubing inside diameter to just clear stem diameter) about a 1/4" longer than the pull stem. Use it as a punch to drive on the head of the rivet. Once flush, drive the pull stem out of the rivet. Easy peasey!
Yet another 'suggestion' in regard to the 'coil type' hot plates. (Don't let your significant other know...) Just use an 8" or 10" cast iron frying pan (or other flat iron or steel plate) on top of the coil in order to have a good, smooth and flat, thermal mass for warming the lube and bullets.
Ken
Kind Thanks, Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Appreciate your “channel,” expertise and insights. Used brass, red and black. Prefer black with rivets. Was about to experiment with paper. Keep up insightful work.
Haven't watched the video yet, but I'm sure it will be great! Thanks for making these videos!
Edit: Just watched and is very informative for Smith Carbine users. Very well made in depth detail on one of the best ways to make Smith Carbine rounds. Thank you, and see you next time.
i know Im asking randomly but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Jermaine Zaid I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jermaine Zaid it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
@Boston Mordechai you are welcome xD
I love the Smith carbine, but I haven't seen one in stock anywhere for some time. Would love to own one.
Just checking on when the Johnston and Dow molds will be back in stock, thanks
I'll hopefully be getting one of the reproduction smith carbines soon. They look like a very handy little rifle.
Great content. I recently picked up an original Smith and am anxious to get out to the range and try it out. This is very helpful.
Excellent video Mark, thanks!
Love your videos and thanks for being percise safety is the key!!! Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you for the content. My Richmond .36 cal mold came in today. Yeah!
Thanks, Mark. My Smith arrived just in time for Vivid to shut the range down, and I have not found the enthusiasm to mold bullets. I think I just got some motivation! I appreciate that. If the paper cartridges work out, do you think they would hold a full service charge? I know, a target load is better for accuracy and economy, but I like to shoot service loads on occasion, too.
Yes, the paper cartridges will hold 45-50 grains.
Great video, very interesting. I shoot an original Smith in the N-SSA, I’ve been using the black nylon cases for years, I think I got them from Lodgewood Mfg, is there any reason I can’t lube first, then size like I do with my mini’s? I’ve tried both ways with my mini’s and found it to be less of a mess after a match. I really like the rivet idea, I’ve been putting small “dot stickers” on the vent and then poke them with a my vent pick just prior to a match which can be a pain in the ass especially if I forget😒
They do make steel pop rivets. How do these cases wear out? Do you think the steel rivet would help?
Yes, they make steel version, and one with an aluminum tube with a steel pin.
Back at ya.. we need to get info on how to swage a Burnside case I am a pretty good machinist I feel the CNC tubes are to expensive tubing or sheet copper may be the way but need to find info on dies. Think you could help?
About adding that bushing in the bottom of the plastic case... The pop rivet housing. I am currently doing that now with my 1862 early model 1857 Smith. The problem I have with mine is that it makes the plastic cartridge too tight to easily close the breach. I don't want to force it against the spring strap. I even took a little bit down off of the back side of the bushing, the part that sticks out towards the primer hole in the gun, to make it flatter and fit flusher against the back side of the breach. Still too tight. What I am doing now is taking down a little bit of the plastic housing on the front end so it will go slightly further into the breach, and give a little extra room for the pop rivet housing to live in the back part of the breach when the barrel is closed and locked. Did you have to do this with yours? I am using the same black plastic housings that you seem to have, I got mine from Dixie, but I think they are the same that SS, etc., sells.
I've never had that problem with mine. Are you seating the rivet as flush to the base of the cartridge as possible? I've found that on the first firing it will flatten out completely.
Thanks so much..
Now I will attempt to get my Smith blowing smoke...
Black Powder in a plastic hopper scares the Holy Bejeesus out of Me.
Thanks for posting this Mark. I’m a new Smith shooter and on my first year with the N-SSA. I was taught to use cream of wheat as a filler and to use a sticker to cover the vent hole. Thoughts on this versus your proces?
Hi Mark where did you get the rivets inserts. Have a great 4th of July.
"I love too-nuh, stinking, rottin' too-nuh fish! I love t00-nuh, It's my favorite stinkin' dish!" - Greaseman
Just a sugestion, why not use a paste made of colodion and black powder to fill the ignition hole? Let dry and then load the cartridge? I use colodion to make waterproof and promote the ignition of my paper cartridges, it should work with cartridges for Smith carbine, I think...
when you seat the bullet as in the video, is there any air space remaining in the cartridge? I noticed you didn't use a wad, filler, etc. but I don't know if you are contacting the powder already (thus don't need any filler) but if you could clarify that I'd be grateful.
Great idea! But what size pop rivet ? They come in 3/, 4/, etc. thirty-seconds.
I mention the size at about 6:15, but I should have put it up to read also. These measure .090 (3/32) on the hollow shank. According the the charts I've found that would make ia #32 pop rivet.
Good man! Thanks, again.
Thanks for sharing Mark.
Possibly shorten the "nail " of the pop rivet to stop the bending ?
Yes, Indeed. In fact the ones that bend, I shorten and go again.
A piece of steel brake tubing to set rivet in case ?
Where can I buy the push through die you talked about size ,515 thanks Bill
I had been into BP as a young man, and have been heavily into firearms ever since. I have not shot a BP revolve since that time and was wondering about the accuracy potential of the BP revolver currently made. I had an Army .44 that shot very well back then. I hunt exclusively with handguns and wondered about your recommendations for a deer grade BP revolver. 8” or less because I normally use 6” modern smith revolvers. Thanks.....
If you were to buy only one BP reproduction revolver, I would suggest the Uberti Remingtion. With a full load and conical bullet it will offer good power and accuracy. It will be hard to out shoot a good modern Smith & Wesson revolver, but I typically can outshoot my m1911s and 9mm with my percussion revolver.
That’s great suggested info. And yes, I intend to get only one revolver for now. Thanks. I make my BP (using cotton for the charcoal and it’s fast). I only have one other Muzzeloader (JBMR in .50) but I make plenty black powder cartridges for use in modern firearms. Thanks again.......
Love your vids, they are getting me back up to speed........
Thanks for the great videos and recreating these historic products !
I had a question about the 55 because I heard it should never be used for BP because of static on the plastic hopper ..
Is that BS about the BP ? Also- how does the grain weight from the scale compare to your brass powder volume measure ? I’ve never checked it out on FFF
Mark, I had my brass cases turned to fit the .518. Yes, expensive, some, Yet, they've become my very favorite Smith case. As to cleaning my brass Smith cases, well I clean lots of brass at my reloading bench. I use all three; nylon, rubber, and brass with good success in both my Pietta Smith and my original. Where did you get your heater used in this video, please? Thanks again for a truly informative video, sir.
That would be the ultimate permanent fix. If someone has a lathe available that would be the perfect solution for using these bullet right out of the mold.
Here is where I got my hot plate www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C8C5I7I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Mark, thank you ever so much for this information, sir.
Brilliant. Thank you for sharing.
I find all your videos very informative. I am just getting back into blackpowder shooting after a 30 year absence. I have a question unrelated to the topic of this video. What is the tune that is played during your video intro? It is really beautiful. I hope it's part of a bigger piece.
Tom, that is a instrumental snippet of "Hard Times Come Again No More" by Steven Foster. He wrote in 1855 during the midst of a deep economic depression in the US. Here is a pretty version with vocals. ruclips.net/video/fGM7BYRXGps/видео.html
Thanks so much! I just ordered the Alisa Jones Wildwood Flower CD. That vocal version you linked is very nice also.
Now I'm trying to decide between a Uberti 1860 Colt or an 1858 Remington Army to get into shooting again.
@@tomp7141 If you can only get one BP revolver, I would suggetst the Uberti Remington. It is a little more versitle. However, after you get one, many more are likely to follow.
Very true about cap and balls propagating. At one point years ago I had a 44 "navy", 44 Remington, two 1860 Colts, and an 1861 Colt. Had to part with them to pay college expenses. I think I liked the Remington best though the large grips on the 1860 Colt fit my hands better. I used to walk our hayfields shooting groundhogs and rabbits. My eyes aren't what they used to be!
Original cases held approximately 50 grains of powder. The reproduction cases aren’t drilled deep enough.
Yes, the plastic cases are designed for target loads. Max is about 30-35 grains depending on the bullet. However, if you hand twist a 1/2 inch drill bit into the case you can deepen it up to 45-50 grains. Doing that will preclude you using the bushing and will probably shorten the life of the case.
You cay number 32 rivets. What size are number 32's.....1/8 inch?
@Eras Gone Historical Molds Hi Mark, any tips on cleaning the black plastic Maynard or Smith cases?
I just clean them in hot soapy water. I recently bought a rotating tumbler with stainless steel pin media. I will try that next time. I bet they will come out factory clean after tumbling.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Thanks for reply. When using new black plastic cases on my original Maynard the action is somewhat hard to close as compared to my brass. Have you had that issue? Thanks Mark.
Can I assume that you size the bullets without any lubricant? I've got a mold and sizer for my .577 Enfield and I thought I was going to need to at least lubricate the bullets with something like Alox before I sized them.
Yes, in this case I did. I only had to size down from .518 to .515 so they are easy to size without lubricant If I had to size them down much more than that, lube might be needed to make it easier. In that case I would lube first and then size.
Is it possible to use lubricated wads instead of lubricating the bullet itself ?
The bullet itself really needs to have grease in the groove to be effective. Plus the capacity of these cases are so low, that a lubricated wad would take up too much of that limited powder space.
I would suggest cutting the rod on the rivet off a bit shorter first. Then tapping in into the hole. You might have to lightly file the rod after cutting. Also in terms of flairing the inside of the touchhole one would have thought that using a punch ( the sort you use to mark metal for drilling) to give it a light tap would give a useful result.
Yes, if one bends I cut it off to make it easier. When I hold it more securely and I'm not trying to keep the action visible to the camera, I seldom have one bend.
Is there any possibility of a conical LeMat bullet mold? I know it's a bit of a far stretch but I'm curious.
I tried to have a Tranter bullet mold made, which is similar to the LeMat, however there were some design issued which prevents it being cut on the CNC machines that LEE uses for its molds. Also, since the reproduction LeMatt is in .44 instead of its original caliber of .41, the bullet could not be an authentic copy of the original.
@@MEHubbs Fair enough, thanks for pointing that out to me.
excellent vidio sir very good and interesting
Can you be more specific as to the size of the pop rivet? Is it 3/32, 5/32’s? There is no “number “32 rivet”.
William I provide this in the description of the video. The ones I used had a tube diameter of 3/32 inch or .09 inch.
My bad! Thousand pardons please, I always forget to use the drop down menu on the post.
@@duigiud No problem. i've done that a thousand times my self.
After firing how do you clean your cases ? Hot soapy water ?
Yes, very hot water. Must be hot to get the waxy lube remnants of of and out of the casing.
You should pan lube them and then size.
I've tried that. Much more trouble than this method for me.
I wonder about 3d printed cases...
I'm sure that would be an option, but at less than 50 cents a case for the black nylon, I'm not sure it would be cost effective.
How do I go about getting a eras gone mold?
The link is in the description of the video above, or visit the website at www.erasgonebullets.com. Click on the "store" button and you will see the smith molds listed. Thanks
You could probably 3d print a bunch of these in nylon for a few cents.
It would probably cost more than the 50-75 cent each that these cost.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 no nylon filament is very cheap
Who makes repro Smith carbine ?
Pietta is the only current maker of reproduction Smith Carbines
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Thanks
Thank you!!!😂
Gretings to the Algorithm
Every gun owner about the most dangerous gun bill in US history.
HR127
Every gun and piece of ammo in the US has to be registered. Nothing is grandfathered. Where you bought it, where it's stored, $50,000-$100,000 fines. 1-10 years in prison. Background check and psychological tests for family members. $800 insurance per year. That's just a small part of it.
So….what happened to this bill? Didn’t happen, did it? We’re they going to,serialize our musket caps, too?
@@jason60chev HR 127 was introduced in the House of Representatives of the 117th Congress and never got to a vote, so it died
A comment for the algorithm
9h