I opened my ASM 29 to attempt it. After trying with one pass with the cotton ball I could feel my hand get sweaty out of anxiety. I stopped and put the comic back in the bag HAHAHAHA.
I never use a pink eraser on a comic book surface. A pink eraser can leave pink residue. The only thing a pink eraser pencil should be used for on a comic is to hold a small piece of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser firmly. Use on covers with a backer board under them (to prevent dents) and then only on the white areas. When you use a white rubber erasers directly on a book, rub gently as it will remove gloss as well as dirt. Instead of a cotton wad/ball, you can use a Swiffer pad firmly if desired for superficial dirt removal. After dry cleaning it, (all but modern) books need to be humidified or the prospect of it reverting to it's original bent up state is often inevitable!
@@JernosComicsPopCulture If you have Windows 10 just use the Video Editor thats built in for free, its not the greatest thing in the world but it works for making or joining simple videos such as this.
Hey man great video! I also have a few videos on pressing and cleaning I've never heard of using a cotton ball definitely going to give it a try though !!
Thanks for this! Learned a few new things. When using an eraser, I like using either the white or black Staedtler erasers. They tend to work quite well, and with the white you can see when 'gunk' is building up on it: when too much has built up, you can just run it over a scrap piece of paper to clean it off so it the grime doesn't transfer to your next clean.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture awesome - recently I've tried another tip from youtube. Not sure if you've seen the channel by "eta nick." He used a Dry Cleaning Sponge - time consuming, but I've found it works well for more fragile corners.
I always use a gum eraser... I noticed some books when cleaning loses gloss while others don't. I would recommend trying a small corner on the back of a book first to see what happens. Thanks! Take care!
Interesting techniques, I have never used cotton balls, might give it a try though, I do however go over comics lightly with a microfibre cloth before I start cleaning just to get off the loose surface dust. A cork backed ruler is a good way to hold down the comic while you work as well. I don't like the pink erasers, I tried them years ago and was just not happy with their consistency, so I use a combination of white erasers, dry magic erasers, and other dirt removal items, I am going to try the cotton balls though as it seemed to me that it brightened up the colors a little. I was a little surprised that you don't let your comics sit in a humidity bath before pressing, (that would be letting them sit on a raised surface in a tub with about an inch of water in the bottom sealed so that the water doesn't evaporate, this allows the paper to absorb a little of the moisture before applying heat to it and keeps the comic from drying out during the pressing process, as I recall Regie Simmons has a pretty good video on it). In any case thanks for showing us how you do your cleaning and pressing and I do hope that you are able to acquire the type of press that you want very soon.
I'll have to try to microfibre for sure! As for the humidity bath, I have contemplated that for years now. Maybe when I upgrade my press I'll finally knock that out as well.
In terms of getting a soft even press to address spine dents that have yet to become white lines into the artwork you can use a white comic book backer from a typical bagged comic, place the glossier (smooth) side facing the artwork, place a single layer of cloth down over the backer covering the area you're going to press (even one layer of a cotton T-shirt will do.) Then, flip a large table-spoon upside down so your the MB fits nicely in the inverted side. Use your thumb to put mild pressure down on the area you need to smooth. The backer will help spread the pressure evenly, displacing any direct depressions. Likewise, the layer of cloth will soften the pressure as well. Rub the convex side of the spoon against the fabric slowly up and down across the problem area. With the backer between the comic face and the fabric, you should be able to avoid doing any residual damage to the cover's gloss or the ink as you address those dents before they become dreaded creases marring the artwork on your beloved collectible. As always, go slow, go soft; keep checking your progress as you go. It's not a race. Sometimes, the difference between a CGC 8 & a CGC 9 comes down to your level of patience and care. Be patient & good luck...
Thanks for watching! As for blunted corners, not really much you can do. Sometimes corners seem blunted down but haven't lost any paper, and you may be able to smooth out any curled over parts, but blunted usually means worn down and ultimately rounded. The only thing that would help there is if you trimmed the book, which I wouldn't recommend doing.
May I suggest experimenting with an artist tool called a gum eraser? Purchased at any college, art or possibly architectural drawing/blueprint business. Just an idea.
I usually use a gum eraser. Definitely my number one choice. I do pencil art so I usually have a few on hand, but I think my son might have hijacked them lol.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture: Rotring B20 is also great, as it's used in technical drawing to erase pencil signs and NOT ink: used very lightly it can remove dirt on the cover in the colored areas without substantial loss of color.
Honestly the ones I get are probably generic lol. They come in the 5 dollar art packs at Michael's. I'd just go with a cheap one and try it out if you're buying online.
I tried that like crazy but the problem is that it's not a real bolt in there. it's a piece that was welded on both sides, and what looks like the small end of a bolt, actually has a lip on it still.
Buy Moo erasers super soft and Pentel for tough marks... Also using a softer eraser will keep the gloss intact .... To remove the eraser residue I like to use a soft hair cylindrical record player cleaning brush
It doesn't need to be a super soft gummy eraser, but I have harder erasers that are still considered "gum." So some drafting erasers would definitely work.
Thanks! If you're just beginning and want something cheap, any generic one off of Amazon or eBay should suffice. I prefer clamshells for sure over the swing arms. If you get a 15x15, you can do two comics at once.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture I just got my new clam shell heat press today. The name of it is CRZDEAL 15x15. I did a quick press on a insignificant comic that was in decent shape. I was impressed it immediately showed results. I’m testing it on a ASM 361 tonight. I let you know what it looks like tomorrow. Wish me luck. I paid $129.99 on Amazon.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture Hello names Dave by the way. About the 15x15 heat press. I was gonna let you know I’ve used it about 10 times now finally figured out how to adjust the pressure so I don’t have the whole machine pop-up like you were experiencing when you got your clamshell. I was able to watch some other videos and what I saw was get it tightened but not too tight and then lock in the place and that has worked for me personally very well.
I didn't do a video showing the pressing results of this books specifically, but I do have other pressing result videos. Check my "Tips for Comic Collectors" playlist.
Yes! You definitely want to take a different approach if it's the news stock paper. You have to be mindful of the different texture and tread easily when applying any cleaning tool.
I appreciate the suggestion, but yeah, not much online regarding this press. It's a generic 'made in China' press, and the piece stuck in isn't actually a bolt. I forget the technical name for it, but I'd probably have to get a drill bit and drill it out at some point.
Respectfully, that's not how it works. When you use a wash cloth to wash your face, are you pressing the dirty onto your face and making it even worse?
Jerno's Comics & Pop Culture the comic you cleaned. Was it stored in a poly bag with a board or a mylite bag.Or was the comic loose. What was it put in to protect it before you cleaned it. It looked like it may have been in something to tight at one time.
Jerno's Comics & Pop Culture Mylar is the best. Sometime the comics are in to tight and it creates a indention along the edge or spine. Not spine roll though.
Good question! I believe water stains are very tough to mitigate. I've seen some die hard comic cleaners do some wonders with a few different techniques, but nothing on my level really reverses water stains.
I hear your concern, but maybe you aren't too familiar with comic pressing? Pressing is used by professionals throughout the industry. There is no direct heat to the book either. I have been pressing books for years now and have never damaged a book, browned any pages, or seen any discoloring.
@@aped3 Well keep in mind just because a book is from the early bronze age or the silver age, doesn't mean that it's worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. BUT, when you take into consideration that a 9.8 book from that era is pretty rare, that is going to drive the value up, so I would say even for your random common books from that era, it's probably going to be tough to find 9.8's for under 100, at least ones that are already slabbed and graded. I would just monitor eBay and see what you can find on there and watch how they are selling.
Not all erasers are created equal. Just because it is pink, doesn't mean it doesn't do the job. It's about the quality. These pink erasers are smooth and leave no residue.
Gloves allow for more room for damaging the comic. Thoroughly washing your hands prior to handing a book is the best handling option to make sure the comic is protected. This is why industry players, including CGC, do not wear gloves. If one wishes to wear gloves due to their comfort level, to each their own.
lol I didn't make you watch anything. I gave you the techniques to get results. If you want to see a pressing video with results, check this one out: ruclips.net/video/0Z3iConjd78/видео.html
I opened my ASM 29 to attempt it. After trying with one pass with the cotton ball I could feel my hand get sweaty out of anxiety. I stopped and put the comic back in the bag HAHAHAHA.
lol oohhhhh no!!!
ya wearing white cotton gloves would help
I never use a pink eraser on a comic book surface. A pink eraser can leave pink residue. The only thing a pink eraser pencil should be used for on a comic is to hold a small piece of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser firmly. Use on covers with a backer board under them (to prevent dents) and then only on the white areas. When you use a white rubber erasers directly on a book, rub gently as it will remove gloss as well as dirt. Instead of a cotton wad/ball, you can use a Swiffer pad firmly if desired for superficial dirt removal. After dry cleaning it, (all but modern) books need to be humidified or the prospect of it reverting to it's original bent up state is often inevitable!
The ads on the back of the comics never been so accurate
Great video! Beautiful book! I would like to get a press someday. Cant wait to see how your book comes out.
Nobody ever shows the damn results...I got comic book blue balls lol
hahahaha I have to get a better video editor in order to put two videos together as one.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture If you have Windows 10 just use the Video Editor thats built in for free, its not the greatest thing in the world but it works for making or joining simple videos such as this.
@@xordoom8467 The Dell I have doesn't have a built in video editor. My old HP w/ Windows 10 did and that program was sweet for a free program.
Nice Chris, look forward to the updated vid 😉 Just started pressing & cleaning myself in 🇬🇧 so looking for all the tips I can get 👍
That's awesome! I am uploading a video now about my new press, but it's not a "how to" video. It's a "what presses to NOT buy" video. Lol.
Hey man great video! I also have a few videos on pressing and cleaning I've never heard of using a cotton ball definitely going to give it a try though !!
Nice! I'll have to check those out! Yeah, cotton balls are really basic but definitely do a good job at some clean up.
Never knew you could do that, great tips
Thanks for this! Learned a few new things. When using an eraser, I like using either the white or black Staedtler erasers. They tend to work quite well, and with the white you can see when 'gunk' is building up on it: when too much has built up, you can just run it over a scrap piece of paper to clean it off so it the grime doesn't transfer to your next clean.
Glad it was helpful! I do have a small white art eraser that I'll use from time to time.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture awesome - recently I've tried another tip from youtube. Not sure if you've seen the channel by "eta nick." He used a Dry Cleaning Sponge - time consuming, but I've found it works well for more fragile corners.
@@jonathanencarnacion8184 Ah yeah! I've seen a few folks using one of those. I've been meaning to get my hands on one!
Thank You Jerome!
Such great advice thanks
I always use a gum eraser... I noticed some books when cleaning loses gloss while others don't. I would recommend trying a small corner on the back of a book first to see what happens.
Thanks! Take care!
Gum erasers are absolutely my go to!
Interesting techniques, I have never used cotton balls, might give it a try though, I do however go over comics lightly with a microfibre cloth before I start cleaning just to get off the loose surface dust. A cork backed ruler is a good way to hold down the comic while you work as well. I don't like the pink erasers, I tried them years ago and was just not happy with their consistency, so I use a combination of white erasers, dry magic erasers, and other dirt removal items, I am going to try the cotton balls though as it seemed to me that it brightened up the colors a little. I was a little surprised that you don't let your comics sit in a humidity bath before pressing, (that would be letting them sit on a raised surface in a tub with about an inch of water in the bottom sealed so that the water doesn't evaporate, this allows the paper to absorb a little of the moisture before applying heat to it and keeps the comic from drying out during the pressing process, as I recall Regie Simmons has a pretty good video on it). In any case thanks for showing us how you do your cleaning and pressing and I do hope that you are able to acquire the type of press that you want very soon.
I'll have to try to microfibre for sure! As for the humidity bath, I have contemplated that for years now. Maybe when I upgrade my press I'll finally knock that out as well.
Dope video bro thanks for the lesson! Very good stuff
Thanks for watching!
In terms of getting a soft even press to address spine dents that have yet to become white lines into the artwork you can use a white comic book backer from a typical bagged comic, place the glossier (smooth) side facing the artwork, place a single layer of cloth down over the backer covering the area you're going to press (even one layer of a cotton T-shirt will do.) Then, flip a large table-spoon upside down so your the MB fits nicely in the inverted side. Use your thumb to put mild pressure down on the area you need to smooth. The backer will help spread the pressure evenly, displacing any direct depressions. Likewise, the layer of cloth will soften the pressure as well. Rub the convex side of the spoon against the fabric slowly up and down across the problem area. With the backer between the comic face and the fabric, you should be able to avoid doing any residual damage to the cover's gloss or the ink as you address those dents before they become dreaded creases marring the artwork on your beloved collectible. As always, go slow, go soft; keep checking your progress as you go.
It's not a race.
Sometimes, the difference between a CGC 8 & a CGC 9 comes down to your level of patience and care.
Be patient & good luck...
Love this! Thanks for sharing, Jay!
Love this, thanks for putting it up. Anything you can do for blunt corners?
Thanks for watching! As for blunted corners, not really much you can do. Sometimes corners seem blunted down but haven't lost any paper, and you may be able to smooth out any curled over parts, but blunted usually means worn down and ultimately rounded. The only thing that would help there is if you trimmed the book, which I wouldn't recommend doing.
you need to get yourself a tripod my friend!
I actually have one. The problem is that the way my desk is positioned, it's hard to keep the camera in a placement that would capture it good.
That cleared up some questions. Thanks man
Sweeet!!!!
..... I got over excited and ripped a little of the corner on the back but the front looks GREAT
@@BSchnurr Crap!!! ouch! Man, trial and error is real! I always try to practice on crap books before doing any important books.
Thanks bro for the great content
Appreciate the support!
May I suggest experimenting with an artist tool called a gum eraser? Purchased at any college, art or possibly architectural drawing/blueprint business. Just an idea.
I usually use a gum eraser. Definitely my number one choice. I do pencil art so I usually have a few on hand, but I think my son might have hijacked them lol.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture: Rotring B20 is also great, as it's used in technical drawing to erase pencil signs and NOT ink: used very lightly it can remove dirt on the cover in the colored areas without substantial loss of color.
thanks for sharing
Thanks for the info
Of course!
Could you post a link to the type of gum eraser you like to use? There is such a variety on Amazon, not sure which would be the best.
Honestly the ones I get are probably generic lol. They come in the 5 dollar art packs at Michael's. I'd just go with a cheap one and try it out if you're buying online.
Tap the bolt out with screwdriver and hammer. Make sure you realese any pressure on the bolt ( Not sure if there's any Springs or tension involved)
Make sure you backup the arm somehow so you don't knock everything out of position.
I tried that like crazy but the problem is that it's not a real bolt in there. it's a piece that was welded on both sides, and what looks like the small end of a bolt, actually has a lip on it still.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture ...probably either need a grinder or drill it out....( I'm a carpenter btw )
Drill!! Yes! Lol why didn't I think of that???
I just use my fingers and continuously pressed the dent until it gets worse. Presto!
lollll
Buy Moo erasers super soft and Pentel for tough marks... Also using a softer eraser will keep the gloss intact .... To remove the eraser residue I like to use a soft hair cylindrical record player cleaning brush
Ah Moo erasers!! Yes! Thanks for sharing your tips!
@@JernosComicsPopCulture keep up the great content very few you tubers are bold enough to call out the industry ... I appreciate your honesty
@@ritualdelo I appreciate the support!
if you still have the broken bolt problem on your press, just use a drill and drill out the old bolt, and put a new one in.
when you say gum eraser , do you mean like a drafting eraser ? is softer better ?
It doesn't need to be a super soft gummy eraser, but I have harder erasers that are still considered "gum." So some drafting erasers would definitely work.
Hello dig the videos and comics! Any update on a clamshell heat press to purchase under $200?
Thanks! If you're just beginning and want something cheap, any generic one off of Amazon or eBay should suffice. I prefer clamshells for sure over the swing arms. If you get a 15x15, you can do two comics at once.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture I just got my new clam shell heat press today. The name of it is CRZDEAL 15x15. I did a quick press on a insignificant comic that was in decent shape. I was impressed it immediately showed results. I’m testing it on a ASM 361 tonight. I let you know what it looks like tomorrow. Wish me luck. I paid $129.99 on Amazon.
@@spider-dude7172 Sounds solid! Good luck!
@@JernosComicsPopCulture
Hello names Dave by the way. About the 15x15 heat press. I was gonna let you know I’ve used it about 10 times now finally figured out how to adjust the pressure so I don’t have the whole machine pop-up like you were experiencing when you got your clamshell. I was able to watch some other videos and what I saw was get it tightened but not too tight and then lock in the place and that has worked for me personally very well.
Did you ever get a new press? Thanks for the video
I didn't. I was able to make some adjustments to the one, and I added stainless steel plates. It's been doing a decent job.
I was wondering Chris where did you find your press from
I bought it off of Amazon. Just a generic clamshell. They usually do a decent job if you're on a budget.
I've got the exact same issue that needs to be cleaned.
Nice!!!
Is there a way to get rid of yellow faded stain around the side staples?
There are some techniques that people use that involve really harsh chemicals. I personally stay far away from it.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture Cool. Thank you for replying.
What size is your press I was thinking of getting one that’s 9x12 in but is that size sufficient?
I would definitely spend a few more dollars and invest in a 15x15. You can press two books at once in a 15x15, and you can fix spine rolls in them.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture thanks so much for the suggestion will definitely do that 🤝
@@iezhraelmeza6823 For sure!
What size & brand is this press?
It's 12x12. As for brand, it's a cheap generic press shipped from China that I bought on eBay.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture will a 12x9 press work?
Can you send me the link to the follow up video?
I didn't do a video showing the pressing results of this books specifically, but I do have other pressing result videos. Check my "Tips for Comic Collectors" playlist.
@@JernosComicsPopCulture I thought you said you would show the results on that one book?
Can interior pages also be cleaned?
Yes! You definitely want to take a different approach if it's the news stock paper. You have to be mindful of the different texture and tread easily when applying any cleaning tool.
Since heat is one of the main things that destroys comics, isn't it a better idea to attempt relying entirely on weight over long periods of time?
Absolutely! That's why with most presses, you only need the heat for a minute or two. The heat on this machine is garbage.
How did it turn out?
Not too bad!
omg , the black dots disappeared !
RUclips how to take the bolt out so you can repair the press. Should be pretty straightforward
I appreciate the suggestion, but yeah, not much online regarding this press. It's a generic 'made in China' press, and the piece stuck in isn't actually a bolt. I forget the technical name for it, but I'd probably have to get a drill bit and drill it out at some point.
You stick something like a screwdriver through the broken side and tap the bolt out with a hammer
How do I send some comics to to get pressed?
Unfortunately, at this time I only press for personal use.
Some other video said don’t put the paper on top of the staples?
Not sure exactly what you are referring to. Are you talking about when it goes in for a press?
@@JernosComicsPopCulture yes
You also need to find artist erasers
Jup nice...the only thing I need now, is that huge press, with which you are flexing on us 😅
Lol check Amazon. There are some decent ones that are around $170.
It aeems to be you're just pressing the dirt on the comic with the cotton ball and making it wven harder to get it clean
Respectfully, that's not how it works. When you use a wash cloth to wash your face, are you pressing the dirty onto your face and making it even worse?
Was the first comic in a mylar bag and mylar archive?
Hi Jon. can you clarify what you are asking? Thanks.
Jerno's Comics & Pop Culture the comic you cleaned. Was it stored in a poly bag with a board or a mylite bag.Or was the comic loose. What was it put in to protect it before you cleaned it. It looked like it may have been in something to tight at one time.
@@jonbishop9062 ah gotcha! I had it in a Mylar, but I've probably only owned the book for a good few years.
Jerno's Comics & Pop Culture Mylar is the best. Sometime the comics are in to tight and it creates a indention along the edge or spine. Not spine roll though.
How do you get water stains out of a book ???
Good question! I believe water stains are very tough to mitigate. I've seen some die hard comic cleaners do some wonders with a few different techniques, but nothing on my level really reverses water stains.
I have this same book. Classic silver age
Indeed!
So, are we going to just ignore how they predicted finishing high school at home on the back, which is really a thing nowadays with online learning?
lol oh wow!
Pressing heat to comic books will brown the pages, and discolor it. Not a good ideal.
I hear your concern, but maybe you aren't too familiar with comic pressing? Pressing is used by professionals throughout the industry. There is no direct heat to the book either. I have been pressing books for years now and have never damaged a book, browned any pages, or seen any discoloring.
Bro, find a little print shop local, and tell them you want it Backtrimmed. It takes off all those ragged edges leaves corners PERFECT.
I would never trim my books. But that sounds like a good idea if you'd be into it.
If you trim a comic book, you can damage it irreparably. If you send it to CGC, it WILL come back with a restored/purple grade! NOT RECOMMENDED.
@@David-xf2uh Exactly. I would never trim a comic and I would hate for a comic that I purchased to have been trimmed.
How hard is it to find 9.8 comics printed before 1975 at a Low Price ???
That would be tough.. Also, what would you consider low price? And, are you looking for raw copies or already graded 9.8s?
@@JernosComicsPopCulture Less than 100.00 $$$
@@aped3 Well keep in mind just because a book is from the early bronze age or the silver age, doesn't mean that it's worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. BUT, when you take into consideration that a 9.8 book from that era is pretty rare, that is going to drive the value up, so I would say even for your random common books from that era, it's probably going to be tough to find 9.8's for under 100, at least ones that are already slabbed and graded. I would just monitor eBay and see what you can find on there and watch how they are selling.
Pink eraser CRINGE!
Get a Magic Rub eraser.
Not all erasers are created equal. Just because it is pink, doesn't mean it doesn't do the job. It's about the quality. These pink erasers are smooth and leave no residue.
Please wear gloves 🧤
Gloves allow for more room for damaging the comic. Thoroughly washing your hands prior to handing a book is the best handling option to make sure the comic is protected. This is why industry players, including CGC, do not wear gloves. If one wishes to wear gloves due to their comfort level, to each their own.
"Tutorl"
yeah... thanks for making me watch a 20 minute video and not show the results
lol I didn't make you watch anything. I gave you the techniques to get results. If you want to see a pressing video with results, check this one out: ruclips.net/video/0Z3iConjd78/видео.html
Now before and after? What a drag
Too-Tour-Ee-Al not Tah-tour-al
Thanks for the Google search. You are very close to God! Bless you!