I really like that you take the time to explain and show those little tricks that make all the difference. You’re a good teacher, thanks!
4 года назад+5
I learn something new in every single video of yours. I knew about ironing from your previous videos but "line width" effecting the surface quality is totally new for me and I'll definitely try it, thanks for the heads up 👍
Man, still after so many years on 3D printing world, and CHEP still gives me lessons, I was having elephants foot issues, no more thanks again to you Sir! Have an amazing sunny day!
I'll check that out but I have to tell you with the troubles I had with my Ender 3 the direct drive and the Ceality Magneti bed made all the difference. The magnetic bed is awesome. And I used to like glass but they wear out too soon. Thanks for all you do Chuck.
SuperSlicer offers Ironing, with no tweaking required. And since its a fork of the PrusaSlicer it has excellent elephants foot compensation. what i like the most is the included suite of calibration prints to dial the printer to perfection (as far as the printer lets you). Combine that with Klipper and all of its features and you can go crazy :D
@Tony Lewis if you mean Klipper, it runs on 32 bit arm boards, but it is dependent on a pi, since kinematics are calculated on the pi... The printer board just executes what Klipper on the pi tells it. It's no nonsense IMHO, since running it only on the printer board would defeat the purpose of Klipper (easy firmware changes without reflashing for example) plus I could not live without plugins like Tasmota...
Been picking up 3d printing only a few days ago, and your videos are great. Not too lengthy and full of rambling, but very informative. And this video is perfect, since ironing seems to make it look so much nicer :D
This is fantastic, I'd been frustrated by elephant's foot for a while now, and lo and behold Cura had a setting to save the day! Thanks so much for this video and the working example!
The elephant's foot tip was extremely useful. I was able to almost eliminate it from my PETG prints. Thanks so much for your brilliant content. This is by far the best 3D printing RUclips channel. I always recommend it for beginners. By watching they will soon become experts. Great down to earth information presented clearly. Systematic and nothing left out.
I always run my line width 10% less than the actual nozzle. .4=.36, .6=.52, .8=.72, etc. Also be careful ironing larger surfaces like the top of a plague. Running the extruder at a 10% feedrate for prolonged periods can lead to a clogged extruder. It just can't handle the heat creep. I did that a couple of times before I figured out what was going on. I really like the idea of reduced line width on the top. That should alleviate the heat creep completely. Another great video, keep 'em coming!
Thanks man! I've been scratching my head about that elephants foot for a while now. And the Ironing was a setting i never knew i always wanted. Much love!
Chep, I've yet to find one of your videos that doesn't pertain to me. 3D Printing is like piloting a plane with all the settings and adjustments, and your explanations are super easy to find on your channel in a pinch. Thank you for helping me print better.
You can do more with Cura: applying the "fake ironing" with a reduced line width ONLY on the "skin" (must be activated in the "Shell" tab) and not on all top/bottom layers, to save time. The width of the skin line is in the "Experimental settings". The skin also have a LOT of specific parameters: they can be completely different from the top/bottom settings...
in 4.7 i didn't have good results and i go back to 4.5! now on 4.7.1 with some my usual changes on stock profiles and add a horizontal expansion at -0.1 i have great results!! thanks Chuck!!!
Hey CHEP, I love using you profiles on my Ender 3 Pro. Thank you for going through all the trouble in researching all this and for making it available to us.
I LOVE your videos! I'm fairly new to 3D printing, & am learning as much from you & your videos as I possibly can, BEFORE I try to print a cab for my Rc semi truck!
I’ll certainly check out the ironing feature. Since switching to your profiles, my prints have been FANTASTIC. Save for the tops. Not terrible, but not like the sides.
SuperSlicer (which is a fork of PrusaSlicer that includes some features from their common ancestor Slic3r that Prusa chose not to include) has both elephant's foot compensation as well as surface ironing.
I tested ironing with different flow rates. I noticed that for me 0% was the best. Anything higher had uneven deposit of excess material on the top. But these were single layer discs I was testing.
Try setting a couple top surface layers, and then setting only the top surface layer width in the experimental settings to less than the nozzle width. Cuts down on the added time of having all the top and bottom layer lines so narrow. Can also set the initial layer line width percentage down for a narrower first layer line width.
Your cube for the first layer expansion compensation could in fact still be a little flared out. I've made the observation that the value should be more like half of the measured flare plus 0.03mm (0.05 if you want to be extra sure) in negative, then it's spot on.
I find that faster speed (+40mm/s) and less flow (5%) when ironing is better with both PLA and PETG, otherwise I usually see some squished nozzle tracks here and there (not combing). Reducing the inset can also make a big difference on small areas when using the zig-zag pattern. But the increased speed drastically reduces the negative impact (time-wise) of ironing.
I found a remix of your rear mount spool holder. You can even use the EZRStruder. It uses a 90 degree turn that actually works very well with the EZR. Probably not with the stock extruder. It also moves the spool out farther to the side for clearance
SuperSlicer, a PrusaSlicer fork, has Ironing, and works better than Cura. I get super smooth surfaces, with Cura I get always the mess you got. Give it a try. I have much better results with it than with Cura. Has extra features than PrusaSlicer, and frecuent updates.
Check superslicer, is a community based slicer and has similar advanced features! The had ironing which is working well for the last 3-6 months! I am nor sure if they had it before I discover the software during lockdown :D
And include elephant foot compensation too and a large amount of customisations making really powerful, for me better than Cura. CHEP could be perfect if you can include this slicer for a tests as the community is growing really quickly.
Fantastic, as usual! Would you have a profile for air/water tight prints in Ender 3? I've seen you need to apply over-extrusion and other techniques...
@CHEP You probably should play around with the Line width settings. 0.26 is way to low. Try around 0.35 and have a Look on the flow then too. Got me better surface than any Ironing. Downside, If you change the nozzle you would have to check for the best setting again.
Im 3d printing a project with SUPER tight tolerances (It really has to fit together well or it will either fall apart or bow the beams because the elephant foot is messing with the fit). It will be nice to finally fix it. Hope it works!
wow, that is a very informative video. May I have a question, when I print the xyz test cube, the x and y side is good, but the z axis is measured around 19.60. What should I do to fix it? Tried to google it but did not found any good solution.
Using a raft or supports under the print make it look hideous! I really needed this iron feature as I am making a diy dj controller case and the top layers look aweful with my current filament! Thanks for this chuck! I am deffo gunna try it
Oh man I was just sitting here thinking I am soooo bored. Then up pops a Chep vid. Again with the excellent advice. Now I need one for better top layers when it's round like a ball. The top layers just don't look the greatest. Any help with that would be great! Thnx for all your hard work. 👍🏼😁
Sometimes these features work. Sometimes they don't. It depends on how wide the layer is, whether the edge is convex or concave. There's still a lot of tweeking in CAD, but maybe not for all joints.
Dobre rady. Używałem DIMAFIX, klej do przyczepiania, jest chyba najlepszy na rynku oraz obniżałem temperaturę stołu do 40-50 stopni aby nie było stopy słonia. Bardzo mi pomogłeś też z kompensacją wymiaru otworów. Dziękuje i pozdrawiam z Polski.
Since I'm about 8 time zones ahead it's always Filament Saturday rather than Filament Friday. But it's worth the wait! 😃
Many people watch it Sunday or Monday so it’s become more of a brand name than an actual day.
Dont you mean "Spool Saturday"?
@@FilamentFriday it's RUclips you can watch it whenever you want 😁👍
I really like that you take the time to explain and show those little tricks that make all the difference. You’re a good teacher, thanks!
I learn something new in every single video of yours. I knew about ironing from your previous videos but "line width" effecting the surface quality is totally new for me and I'll definitely try it, thanks for the heads up 👍
Man, still after so many years on 3D printing world, and CHEP still gives me lessons, I was having elephants foot issues, no more thanks again to you Sir! Have an amazing sunny day!
Clear and to the point, thats why I like your videos.
I'll check that out but I have to tell you with the troubles I had with my Ender 3 the direct drive and the Ceality Magneti bed made all the difference. The magnetic bed is awesome. And I used to like glass but they wear out too soon. Thanks for all you do Chuck.
Just got my first ender 3 pro yesterday, and your videos have just made it so much better. Thank you!
I really do like the look of that two-tone ironing effect. Can't wait for that feature to come to PrusaSlicer, I've never got on with the Cura UI
SuperSlicer offers Ironing, with no tweaking required. And since its a fork of the PrusaSlicer it has excellent elephants foot compensation. what i like the most is the included suite of calibration prints to dial the printer to perfection (as far as the printer lets you). Combine that with Klipper and all of its features and you can go crazy :D
@Tony Lewis if you mean Klipper, it runs on 32 bit arm boards, but it is dependent on a pi, since kinematics are calculated on the pi... The printer board just executes what Klipper on the pi tells it. It's no nonsense IMHO, since running it only on the printer board would defeat the purpose of Klipper (easy firmware changes without reflashing for example) plus I could not live without plugins like Tasmota...
Been picking up 3d printing only a few days ago, and your videos are great. Not too lengthy and full of rambling, but very informative. And this video is perfect, since ironing seems to make it look so much nicer :D
This is fantastic, I'd been frustrated by elephant's foot for a while now, and lo and behold Cura had a setting to save the day! Thanks so much for this video and the working example!
Most useful. Especially one about the elephants foot. Thanks Chep
Just bought an Ender 3. thx for your videos. It really helps.
CHEP - The Cura learning channel.
The elephant's foot tip was extremely useful. I was able to almost eliminate it from my PETG prints. Thanks so much for your brilliant content. This is by far the best 3D printing RUclips channel. I always recommend it for beginners. By watching they will soon become experts. Great down to earth information presented clearly. Systematic and nothing left out.
Thank You.
Ironing is also available on Super Slicer, a Prusa slicer fork, which is genuinely my go to slicer. just love it
@_ David _ If i were you, I'd give it a shot :D
I always run my line width 10% less than the actual nozzle. .4=.36, .6=.52, .8=.72, etc. Also be careful ironing larger surfaces like the top of a plague. Running the extruder at a 10% feedrate for prolonged periods can lead to a clogged extruder. It just can't handle the heat creep. I did that a couple of times before I figured out what was going on. I really like the idea of reduced line width on the top. That should alleviate the heat creep completely. Another great video, keep 'em coming!
Thanks man! I've been scratching my head about that elephants foot for a while now. And the Ironing was a setting i never knew i always wanted. Much love!
I just spent 4 hourst trying to remove elephants foot and this video fixed all my issues
Another great video Chuck. Thanks for all the great and helpful content that you provide!
Thanks, I wasn't aware of the elephant foot setting in Cura. Now I am. Very cool
Chep, I've yet to find one of your videos that doesn't pertain to me. 3D Printing is like piloting a plane with all the settings and adjustments, and your explanations are super easy to find on your channel in a pinch. Thank you for helping me print better.
Thanks for watching.
Dry brush painting technique for the "Iron only top layer" on the "Z" would make it really pop because of the texture.
Great job, have been having trouble with articulates and elephant's foot, a raft does not work, but your explanation solved it for me.
You can do more with Cura: applying the "fake ironing" with a reduced line width ONLY on the "skin" (must be activated in the "Shell" tab) and not on all top/bottom layers, to save time.
The width of the skin line is in the "Experimental settings". The skin also have a LOT of specific parameters: they can be completely different from the top/bottom settings...
I’ll give it a try.
Thank you very much Chep, your advices, your findings are always relevant.Thank you again very much.
in 4.7 i didn't have good results and i go back to 4.5! now on 4.7.1 with some my usual changes on stock profiles and add a horizontal expansion at -0.1 i have great results!! thanks Chuck!!!
Thank you for the elephant foot tip in CURA! :)
Very practical indeed. I knew about ironing but getting rid of that elephant's foot is gold. Thanks Chep!
Really, really interesting! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips, Chuck!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The weave pattern Z is a really cool effect, have to try that, cool video!
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Excellent teaching, I love your explanations, thank you
You always seem to have the solution to the problem I am having. 🙂 Thanks for making videos. 🙂
Reducing line width of support in Cura has made supports super dreamy.
I often find I watch Chuck's videos just to chill out. He's like the Bob Ross of 3d printing. Keep at it Chuck you're a legend, fella.
But I don’t have the hair ;)
Hey CHEP, I love using you profiles on my Ender 3 Pro.
Thank you for going through all the trouble in researching all this and for making it available to us.
I LOVE your videos! I'm fairly new to 3D printing, & am learning as much from you & your videos as I possibly can, BEFORE I try to print a cab for my Rc semi truck!
Very instructive as usual. Thanks a lot.
I apreciate this, hope this will help. Very valuable info!
Yeeeeha! Great idea with the layer width and height!!! Love your videos! Really helpful !;)
SuperSlicer, a Prusa Slicer Fork, also use Ironic on the Top.
I’ll certainly check out the ironing feature. Since switching to your profiles, my prints have been FANTASTIC. Save for the tops. Not terrible, but not like the sides.
SuperSlicer (which is a fork of PrusaSlicer that includes some features from their common ancestor Slic3r that Prusa chose not to include) has both elephant's foot compensation as well as surface ironing.
Great information, Chuck. I always enjoy your videos. I sincerely hope you and your family are doing well!
Every video I tried to stop elephants foot did not work but this one does TYSM
I tested ironing with different flow rates. I noticed that for me 0% was the best. Anything higher had uneven deposit of excess material on the top. But these were single layer discs I was testing.
Every print is different. I didnt optimize.i just wanted to show the default settings.
Outstanding content! Thanks for sharing!
Very informative, can't wait to try these settings out! Thanks for making the video Chuck!
Try setting a couple top surface layers, and then setting only the top surface layer width in the experimental settings to less than the nozzle width. Cuts down on the added time of having all the top and bottom layer lines so narrow. Can also set the initial layer line width percentage down for a narrower first layer line width.
This is one of the best simple evolution I ever seen about Ironing. Very good !
UN GENIO! Saludos desde Argentina! 🇦🇷
Awesome like always
The Ironing setting was a great reason for me to switch from simplify3d to cura forever👍👌
Cura is fantastic, love your work Chuck!
You are my go to guy 100%, thank you for Sharing your extensive knowledge
Your cube for the first layer expansion compensation could in fact still be a little flared out. I've made the observation that the value should be more like half of the measured flare plus 0.03mm (0.05 if you want to be extra sure) in negative, then it's spot on.
thanks I really appreciate this explanation
no you dont
Thx for this solid video. Great tips. Good, clear before and after pics just what we want. Thx again!
Excellent advice Chuck, thanx.
I find that faster speed (+40mm/s) and less flow (5%) when ironing is better with both PLA and PETG, otherwise I usually see some squished nozzle tracks here and there (not combing). Reducing the inset can also make a big difference on small areas when using the zig-zag pattern. But the increased speed drastically reduces the negative impact (time-wise) of ironing.
Thanks.
The latest prusaslicer beta has ironing and it works pretty good.
I found a remix of your rear mount spool holder. You can even use the EZRStruder. It uses a 90 degree turn that actually works very well with the EZR. Probably not with the stock extruder. It also moves the spool out farther to the side for clearance
Super slicer support ironing since a year. Prusa actually merged it to prusa slicer.
SuperSlicer, a PrusaSlicer fork, has Ironing, and works better than Cura. I get super smooth surfaces, with Cura I get always the mess you got. Give it a try.
I have much better results with it than with Cura. Has extra features than PrusaSlicer, and frecuent updates.
I’ll check it out.
Bit late but this fixed the last major problem I've had 3D printing!
Mann, this supporters font became tiny!
Much love 😍
We’re working on a better way to display.
Check superslicer, is a community based slicer and has similar advanced features! The had ironing which is working well for the last 3-6 months! I am nor sure if they had it before I discover the software during lockdown :D
And include elephant foot compensation too and a large amount of customisations making really powerful, for me better than Cura. CHEP could be perfect if you can include this slicer for a tests as the community is growing really quickly.
Yes. I’m using superslicer. Very nice slicer👍
Fantastic, as usual! Would you have a profile for air/water tight prints in Ender 3? I've seen you need to apply over-extrusion and other techniques...
@CHEP You probably should play around with the Line width settings. 0.26 is way to low. Try around 0.35 and have a Look on the flow then too. Got me better surface than any Ironing. Downside, If you change the nozzle you would have to check for the best setting again.
I’ve found each filament is a bit different.
Great tips again!
Another useful video, thank you!
A BIG Thcnx for that info ❣️
Kisslicer 2.0.6 is also offering ironing. It offers the options for sweep, group and also Monotonic sweep.
I'm excited tot try that line width trick to see what effect it would have on print quality
amazing video as always!
Nice video! Thanks for making them, keep it up!
Ideamaker has ironing also :)
Nice features. I think I give Cura a try
so so great tutorial and solved many problem and save times . thanks so much
Hello, Great videos you have! ;) The slicer Ideamaker also has the function Ironing
Great video! Thank you!!!
This is by far the best 3d Printing tips channel Thanks @chep
Top surface skin layer line width set to .2 is a great alternative to ironing.
The initial layer expansion is also in version 4.6, but perhaps you can't search for elephants foot, so just search for initial layer expansion :)
Great vídeo!
superslicer and ideamaker have ironing as well, but cura was the first one for sure
Im 3d printing a project with SUPER tight tolerances (It really has to fit together well or it will either fall apart or bow the beams because the elephant foot is messing with the fit). It will be nice to finally fix it. Hope it works!
Awesome thanks.
Love this little video. perfect content
Thanks! As always useful information.
2 years after the video is posted. Prusa slicer has the ironing feature. You need to change to the advanced mode to search for it.
Just love what you do❤️
wow, that is a very informative video. May I have a question, when I print the xyz test cube, the x and y side is good, but the z axis is measured around 19.60. What should I do to fix it? Tried to google it but did not found any good solution.
Using a raft or supports under the print make it look hideous! I really needed this iron feature as I am making a diy dj controller case and the top layers look aweful with my current filament! Thanks for this chuck! I am deffo gunna try it
Nice tips chuck!
Oh man I was just sitting here thinking I am soooo bored. Then up pops a Chep vid. Again with the excellent advice. Now I need one for better top layers when it's round like a ball. The top layers just don't look the greatest. Any help with that would be great! Thnx for all your hard work. 👍🏼😁
Try the smaller line width. You might like it.
Adaptive layers could help, depending on the size. If it's big enough and you have the clearance, try non-planar printing!
CHEP Ok thanks will give it a try😁
Lozoot2 Ok thanks I will look that up 👍🏼😁
You are a ROCK STAR.
Solid advice. 10/10 thanks a lot FF
Sometimes these features work. Sometimes they don't. It depends on how wide the layer is, whether the edge is convex or concave. There's still a lot of tweeking in CAD, but maybe not for all joints.
Dobre rady. Używałem DIMAFIX, klej do przyczepiania, jest chyba najlepszy na rynku oraz obniżałem temperaturę stołu do 40-50 stopni aby nie było stopy słonia. Bardzo mi pomogłeś też z kompensacją wymiaru otworów. Dziękuje i pozdrawiam z Polski.
Ideamaker also has ironing.