I just installed the white manmade ivory Tusque nut on my 98 American Strat. What a game changer. The nut was simple to install. I just needed to sand off the bottom nub and take a little off one side to make it fit. The height was much better and as result, I was able to get my action lower than from the factory! Plus string clarity and sustain is much improved. Highly recommended!!
Kinda pissed. Just found this video after watching a 15 minute video on how to do the same exact thing. That's why geezer's rock- straight to the point without all the Bullsitting. Great video. Thank you.
U have to follow ur radius and sand the bottom accordingly. I had to shave off that little tab. I used my fretboard and put some sandpaper on it and sanded so the radius would be exact on the bottom of the nut.
The "pinging" noise you mentioned in the nut. It is just the string not passing through cleanly, binding, before the tension overcomes it and lets it pass through. What we (professional repairers) do is to slightly relieve the nut, by using appropriate nut files if necessary, but 600 grit paper is usually all it takes. Replacing a nut is the VERY last thing you would do to deal with the problem you mentioned..
Yes can do it yourself saves buying a nut . Page Hendrix Clapton knopher and lots of others all used stock nuts never effected there sound . These nuts are just hype.
Simple, Clear and concise. The way all instructional videos should be made. You've got over 100,000 views, but only 705 subs? That's criminal. Add one more grateful geezer to the fold!
Is it supposed to keep that little piece of nut under it? I mean, has not to be totally flat on the base the new nut? Here I can see it is "arched" to keep the neck radius but it means that there are free space under the new Nut becase of that small piece underneath.
My 1st time doin this nut replacement i use the wrong gauge and spoil athe graph tech i did shim it and it works but still dont like how it looks so i ordered 2 just in cause.
Tusq doesn’t look as good as unbleached bone but after fitting a few myself I have to say they’re now my favorite. Of course you have to do some refitting out of the box to fit your guitar but I have to say I really like tusq now. Feel and fit and sound is right on. Wish they’d offer an off white/creme one not just white and black. But whatever. And they sure don’t break so easy like the bone ones either. Great product!
I don't have the little tool you used to measure the string distance after you applied the capo at the 3rd fret what could I have around the house that would be approximately the same thickness on the high and low sides . It looked like a credit card would be to thick . And don't really wanna go out with this Virus going around . Would be grateful for any help you could give me ! Thanks God Bless
dislike floyds an locking tuners, like my strings to breathe individually ...dont like string trees too, i think best guitars are made without them, I still take advantage of Leo Fenders floating system but without the arm, two springs two screws an tuned very low with a 9 -115-15-22/24-32-42 -set, the only complaint would be why mr Daaddarios number 42 iz so low in tension...? az for winding strings around string posts locking or not does no harm, in fact now that i think of it is a very good idea: for if the string breaksat the locking point you still have enough string left to reload...
Hmm, isn't these nut are for both 9" and 7,25" radius?! My neck is from an 80's MiJ Tele, and the nut slot has a 7,25" radius too (as the entire neck). Don't know about yours, but I have to say that be careful to be sure that the slot is flat or not. Mine is not flat, and the little tab need to be removed, before any other sanding. Graphtech say that we don't need any glue. What is your point about this?
Good observation.... a locking tuner allows one to pass the string thru the post hole, snug the string and then lock it in place. Tune up and no need for all those wraps.
I just pulled of the nut on my MIM. The bottom has a radius. Was yours flat? I'm going to retrofit mine with a gotoh wilkinson bridge, tusq nut, and I may upgrade the tuners to the locking type. I have a set of EMG David Gilmour active pickups that I already put in.
The original nut didn't have a tab and the neck didn't have a slot for the tab, so is there any reason you left the Graph-Tech nut tab on the bottom? I think that tab only exists for necks that have the notch made for the tab, right?
Wouldn't there be a lot less surface contact from the bottom of the tab and the top of the nut slot? Doesn't seem like the best way to transfer energy from the strings through the nut into the neck.
The only problem is that when you sanded the Tusq nut down to reduce its height, you didn't make any allowance for the radius curve. This could affect the way it is seated within the neck slot.
Marty Red I've recently been considering replacing my nut with a Tusq XL on my MIM Fender Telecaster. And from my research it seems that nearly every single fender has a radius underneath of its nut. And the radius matches that of the fretboard. To shape the bottom of the new nut, many people just wrap a piece of sandpaper over the top of their actual fretboard and rub the nut across that. Therefore it receives the same radius as the neck.
Graphtech is just a hard plastic harder the nut more brighter and that's not good on a strat or tele. Just use softer material you get a better sound . Like graphite or one that comes on the strat .
I dont think this one is the self lubricating (teflon impregnated) nut. They have two, one is TUSQ that is supposed to simulate bone, TUSQ XL has the teflon and when you did the video I believe the only tusq xl there was were the black ones
John B As I said above they didnt have the white XL when he made this video. I built a guitar about 2 years after that and put a white TUSQ nut on it only to realize it wasnt self lubricating because they didnt even have that one then. I remember when it came out and ordered some shortly after.
I have also heard you say that roller nuts kinda suck and they are metal. It would be nice if you equipped a couple of guitars with the different materials and proved your theories. We would be listening?
Princepaisly p relying on a capo to constantly retain the nut in place is even more absurd than only using string tension. There is a good reason why such is not done.
Be VERY AWARE of using this method on a channel-bound guitar. I just chipped the bounding for trying this. Luckily enough it's not a big damage and it's fixable...
Before you tap the nut out of the channel, it's a good idea to use an x-acto knife to cut around the outside edges of the nut. Slice through the clear coat that is sprayed on after the nut was installed, so it doesn't stick to the nut when you are breaking it loose from the glue holding it to the wood.
Phil Underhill Uh, no. That's definitely the third fret. The dots are on the odd numbers excluding the 12th (and 24th when applicable). Think about what you're seeing before correcting someone
FFS. If the frets are the actual fret wire (which they are), and you are in the act of PLAYING the guitar, you actually press the string down above/before the third piece of fret wire, thus it is the third fret that is in use - i.e. controlling the distance between two points-of-contact BUT, if you are concerned with the goings-on of things between the SECOND fret (fret wire) and the nut, you would still press the string in the same location as before (WHICH SOME MIGHT CALL THE THIRD FRET), BUT now it is the piece of fret wire ABOVE where you have placed your fingertip that matters, since you are measuring vertical distances from the top of first fret wire to the bottom of string. THEREFORE, stop getting so hung up on semantics. If you feel the need to be condescendingly passive aggressive by telling someone to "think about what you're seeing before... blah, blah, blah..." just either shut the fuck up entirely, or actually be fucking aggressive (if that's what you feel you need to get out of your system). But don't be shitty to each other about something that is arguable in a grey area and definitely trivial at best. Bitches.
lapk78 The fret is where you put your finger, the fret wire is where the string touches to make a sound. That's on every owner's manual for guitars. The inlay's on the third fret in 99% of guitars (including this one).
lapk78 He said he put the capo on at the second fret, not to measure the second fret, so your entire point is wrong. PS: I was being a smart ass because he was being an ass, I don't normally act like that.
Why not take the opportunity to put a new set of strings on? Not to mention working under those loose strings makes life harder than it has to be. You're supposed to clean the nut slot before the install of a new nut anyway. Oh and that capo is on the 3rd fret not 2nd.
Why gig the guy on the fret number? It's a total point of view call. Working on the nut? It's the second fret. Working on the bridge then, yes, it's the 3rd. Hate when someone comes seeking advise, then bitches.
I know, right? There's a handful of folks on the internet who just watch videos to critique them and nothing more. It's pretty sad, all told. Plus the fact that he can't figure out that it IS the 2nd fret in relation to the capo means he should probably think before he speaks.
I just installed the white manmade ivory Tusque nut on my 98 American Strat. What a game changer. The nut was simple to install. I just needed to sand off the bottom nub and take a little off one side to make it fit. The height was much better and as result, I was able to get my action lower than from the factory! Plus string clarity and sustain is much improved. Highly recommended!!
Kinda pissed. Just found this video after watching a 15 minute video on how to do the same exact thing. That's why geezer's rock- straight to the point without all the Bullsitting. Great video. Thank you.
U have to follow ur radius and sand the bottom accordingly. I had to shave off that little tab. I used my fretboard and put some sandpaper on it and sanded so the radius would be exact on the bottom of the nut.
The "pinging" noise you mentioned in the nut. It is just the string not passing through cleanly, binding, before the tension overcomes it and lets it pass through. What we (professional repairers) do is to slightly relieve the nut, by using appropriate nut files if necessary, but 600 grit paper is usually all it takes. Replacing a nut is the VERY last thing you would do to deal with the problem you mentioned..
TerryO doesn't seem like that big of a hassle, and it may be an upgrade.
Yes can do it yourself saves buying a nut . Page Hendrix Clapton knopher and lots of others all used stock nuts never effected there sound . These nuts are just hype.
Simple, Clear and concise. The way all instructional videos should be made.
You've got over 100,000 views, but only 705 subs? That's criminal.
Add one more grateful geezer to the fold!
the way that is strung, it will never stay in tune 😂
i wish i had friends like ya who ten years after are worried bout my guitar tunung capabilities...! : )
Thanks! Just needed to see how it's done before I tried. Some sanding was required for my tele too but I got it done in about 20 min.
Is it supposed to keep that little piece of nut under it? I mean, has not to be totally flat on the base the new nut? Here I can see it is "arched" to keep the neck radius but it means that there are free space under the new Nut becase of that small piece underneath.
Under the Double Eagle....the very first song I ever learned on the Telecaster....many moons ago!
He is using locking tuners, however, he still wrapped the strings 3-4 times around the posts in the old fashioned way.
The kickback video guy! I like your woodworking and tool review videos. I found this by accident looking at how to change the nut on my 96 MIM Strat.
Thanks I just bought a strat style hohner and it's a sweet guitar but it needs a new nut for the same reason. Was yours flat or curved.
Pretty sure the GraphTech TUSQ nut doesn't have Teflon in it. It's the TUSQ XL line of nuts that have the Teflon in them.
thats right
Why are you wrapping the string on the tuners with locking tuners??
Gorgeous upgrade
You need to file off the little nub on the the bottom as the neck has a radius. you leave the nub on if the neck is flat.
My 1st time doin this nut replacement i use the wrong gauge and spoil athe graph tech i did shim it and it works but still dont like how it looks so i ordered 2 just in cause.
That nut looks like it has a radius to it but wouldn’t sanding cause it to run flat?
He was fitting a 12" radius. That's also what I have and it's pretty flat.
With that particular nut you just have to smooth a bit of that nib off.
Tusq doesn’t look as good as unbleached bone but after fitting a few myself I have to say they’re now my favorite. Of course you have to do some refitting out of the box to fit your guitar but I have to say I really like tusq now. Feel and fit and sound is right on. Wish they’d offer an off white/creme one not just white and black. But whatever. And they sure don’t break so easy like the bone ones either. Great product!
Just leave the nut a night in a cup with cold coffee...and you have your "old nut vintage look !👊😎👍
I don't have the little tool you used to measure the string distance after you applied the capo at the 3rd fret what could I have around the house that would be approximately the same thickness on the high and low sides . It looked like a credit card would be to thick . And don't really wanna go out with this Virus going around . Would be grateful for any help you could give me ! Thanks God Bless
Those feeler gauges are pretty cheap. I'll bet they're like 5 bucks at harbor freight and have all kinds of useful applications..
Has locking tuners, wounds the whole string around it..
HAHAHAAH YES
dislike floyds an locking tuners, like my strings to breathe individually ...dont like string trees too, i think best guitars are made without them, I still take advantage of Leo Fenders floating system but without the arm, two springs two screws an tuned very low with a 9 -115-15-22/24-32-42 -set, the only complaint would be why mr Daaddarios number 42 iz so low in tension...? az for winding strings around string posts locking or not does no harm, in fact now that i think of it is a very good idea: for if the string breaksat the locking point you still have enough string left to reload...
@@kimmolingonheimo okay boomer
WHY DO PEOPLE DO THAT?!
Talk about defeating the purpose.... 😂
great video thanks for sharing this. I am planning to install one on a epi dot, hope it is as easy as what you showed!
Can I put a Graph Tech Yngwie Malmsteen Brass nut on my PRS SE EG?
hello the nut is the model-PQL 5000-00? used as a measure that thickness between key and under strings? thanks and congratulations for the video
Hmm, isn't these nut are for both 9" and 7,25" radius?!
My neck is from an 80's MiJ Tele, and the nut slot has a 7,25" radius too (as the entire neck). Don't know about yours, but I have to say that be careful to be sure that the slot is flat or not. Mine is not flat, and the little tab need to be removed, before any other sanding.
Graphtech say that we don't need any glue. What is your point about this?
This guitar have locking tuners. Why you put the strings with more turns like in normal tuners?
Good observation.... a locking tuner allows one to pass the string thru the post hole, snug the string and then lock it in place. Tune up and no need for all those wraps.
I just pulled of the nut on my MIM. The bottom has a radius. Was yours flat? I'm going to retrofit mine with a gotoh wilkinson bridge, tusq nut, and I may upgrade the tuners to the locking type. I have a set of EMG David Gilmour active pickups that I already put in.
The original nut didn't have a tab and the neck didn't have a slot for the tab, so is there any reason you left the Graph-Tech nut tab on the bottom? I think that tab only exists for necks that have the notch made for the tab, right?
The tab is for slots that have a flat bottom. Some slots have a curved bottom that follow the radius of the neck in which you would sand away the tab.
Wouldn't there be a lot less surface contact from the bottom of the tab and the top of the nut slot? Doesn't seem like the best way to transfer energy from the strings through the nut into the neck.
Thanks, great tips, I've a Graph Tech TUSQ Nut on it's way over for my tele, this helps.
Great videoing the nut but I’m not sure about having 20 wraps on the tuners
It looks like you have locking tuners, so why are you wrapping the string so much?
Hi that stratocaster that you replaced the nut is that for sale?
The only problem is that when you sanded the Tusq nut down to reduce its height, you didn't make any allowance for the radius curve. This could affect the way it is seated within the neck slot.
There's no curve in the nut slot. The curve is on the surface of the fretboard.
Sorry, if that's the case. Best to check, the last one I replaced was on a Fender Telecaster and there was a curve.
Marty Red I've recently been considering replacing my nut with a Tusq XL on my MIM Fender Telecaster. And from my research it seems that nearly every single fender has a radius underneath of its nut. And the radius matches that of the fretboard.
To shape the bottom of the new nut, many people just wrap a piece of sandpaper over the top of their actual fretboard and rub the nut across that. Therefore it receives the same radius as the neck.
There is no logical reason for the slot to have curve?
Hey, are you the same guy who does the woodworking videos? Didn't realize you are a guitar guy too.
can anyone please note the space that is needed between the string en neck?
Graphtech is just a hard plastic harder the nut more brighter and that's not good on a strat or tele. Just use softer material you get a better sound . Like graphite or one that comes on the strat .
I dont think this one is the self lubricating (teflon impregnated) nut. They have two, one is TUSQ that is supposed to simulate bone, TUSQ XL has the teflon and when you did the video I believe the only tusq xl there was were the black ones
They make them in white now also.
John B As I said above they didnt have the white XL when he made this video. I built a guitar about 2 years after that and put a white TUSQ nut on it only to realize it wasnt self lubricating because they didnt even have that one then. I remember when it came out and ordered some shortly after.
Does the American fender strat. 2000 come with a plastic nut , is the TusQ better !?
It's corian which is good enough forget these hype nuts Yiu won't hear anymore sustain just more brighter on strats which sounds crap
I have also heard you say that roller nuts kinda suck and they are metal. It would be nice if you equipped a couple of guitars with the different materials and proved your theories. We would be listening?
Did you use anything to make sure the nut stays in place once installed. Personally I don't rely on string tension alone.
He said in the video after setting the height he removed the nut and used wood glue before the final installation
Princepaisly p relying on a capo to constantly retain the nut in place is even more absurd than only using string tension. There is a good reason why such is not done.
Princepaisly p So your talking about a clamp. that could work if its profile fits, I suspect many would-
How would you compare to an Earvana nut?
Tanks dude, geat tips, great video, and yes its so easy to change the nut with this tutorial, rock on!!!
Thank u, very helpful
After watching this video I just learn how to use locking tuners correctly
Looks like locking tuners with way too many wraps, maybe that's what's causing the pinging...
Thanks Forrest...
Isn't this Forrest Gump.. I could swear it's him... Voice and accent.
Thanks for the great info
very useful thank you man
Be VERY AWARE of using this method on a channel-bound guitar. I just chipped the bounding for trying this. Luckily enough it's not a big damage and it's fixable...
Before you tap the nut out of the channel, it's a good idea to use an x-acto knife to cut around the outside edges of the nut. Slice through the clear coat that is sprayed on after the nut was installed, so it doesn't stick to the nut when you are breaking it loose from the glue holding it to the wood.
nice wrap job on locking tuners lmao
very usefull , thanks for the video
epic theme music
Capo 3rd fret not 2nd.
That's the third fret
No, it's the second fret. Try and think about what you're seeing before commenting.
Phil Underhill Uh, no. That's definitely the third fret. The dots are on the odd numbers excluding the 12th (and 24th when applicable).
Think about what you're seeing before correcting someone
FFS. If the frets are the actual fret wire (which they are), and you are in the act of PLAYING the guitar, you actually press the string down above/before the third piece of fret wire, thus it is the third fret that is in use - i.e. controlling the distance between two points-of-contact BUT, if you are concerned with the goings-on of things between the SECOND fret (fret wire) and the nut, you would still press the string in the same location as before (WHICH SOME MIGHT CALL THE THIRD FRET), BUT now it is the piece of fret wire ABOVE where you have placed your fingertip that matters, since you are measuring vertical distances from the top of first fret wire to the bottom of string.
THEREFORE, stop getting so hung up on semantics. If you feel the need to be condescendingly passive aggressive by telling someone to "think about what you're seeing before... blah, blah, blah..." just either shut the fuck up entirely, or actually be fucking aggressive (if that's what you feel you need to get out of your system). But don't be shitty to each other about something that is arguable in a grey area and definitely trivial at best. Bitches.
lapk78 The fret is where you put your finger, the fret wire is where the string touches to make a sound. That's on every owner's manual for guitars.
The inlay's on the third fret in 99% of guitars (including this one).
lapk78 He said he put the capo on at the second fret, not to measure the second fret, so your entire point is wrong.
PS: I was being a smart ass because he was being an ass, I don't normally act like that.
how about that nipple on the bottom.. my slot has no nipple hole and the thing acts like a see saw
Shawn Davie sand it down
Why not take the opportunity to put a new set of strings on? Not to mention working under those loose strings makes life harder than it has to be. You're supposed to clean the nut slot before the install of a new nut anyway. Oh and that capo is on the 3rd fret not 2nd.
+Dalton Crabtree No real reason for new strings if they are still new, which seems to be the case.
Why gig the guy on the fret number? It's a total point of view call. Working on the nut? It's the second fret. Working on the bridge then, yes, it's the 3rd. Hate when someone comes seeking advise, then bitches.
I know, right? There's a handful of folks on the internet who just watch videos to critique them and nothing more. It's pretty sad, all told. Plus the fact that he can't figure out that it IS the 2nd fret in relation to the capo means he should probably think before he speaks.
The guitar community is full of know-it-alls.
nice intro music hehe
It's pronounced "Tusk"
You dont know how to use locking tuners
Thank u, very helpful