Incredible deja vu in this video for MattKC's "Buying a $1 Wii from Japan." His Wii had similar visual output issues, and faulty capacitors was also the issue! He also had a nerve-racking experience attempting to replace them. Highly recommend the video if you haven't seen it.
Fun fact: The Super Nintendo in PAL regions shared the same console, controller, and cartridge design as the Super Famicom. Only the US was different with their Super Nintendo.
Brazilian PAL-M version of Super Nintendo (1993) had the same console, controller and cartridge design as the the US Super Nintendo. Not sure if it counts as PAL as well.
only downside is that they added resistors to the PAL SNES controllers to make it incompatible with any NTSC systems. they even region locked controllers
The twist method works just fine. The important part with it is to not pull up as you could lift the trace pulling up. Personally I bought a cheap 858D hot air station and used that to desolder my SNES's caps.
The Famicom's design really aged very well. I really like how the controllers connect to the side and the cartages are smaller and easier to look at VS what we got in the USA
the reason we got the NES design in the US is because of the video game crash, nintendo marketed the NES as an "entertainment system" rather than a home console and made the NES look more like a VCR, which is why you insert the cartridges in the NES like that
Hey! I work at Sally Beauty, was shocked to see Salon Care developer in yet another non hair application! it works wonders for whitening yellowed objects up, however, make sure you restock your developer at least every year! Even if the cap is screwed tight, developer typically will last up to a year before degrading in quality/efficacy. Weirdly enough, it'll start to have similar qualities to spoiled milk, having an off smell and starting to 'curdle'. Just wanted to make sure as I haven't seen that labeling for it in a while :) Love your content, keep it up!
For retrobrighting people tend to be happy to let it degrade a little bit, since it just makes it take longer to get the same results. The people who use large tubs of liquid tend to reuse that and max out their money's worth. But yeah, I'd never dream of using anything like that on my hair.
Awesome episode! About the caps, Adrian Black from Adrian's Digital Basement use that method with some differences. In both his channels he recently made a full recap of Mac motherboards and explained everything about it too. And finally... The cool time-lapse is back! 😊
Wow for a first time recapper and SMD to boot, that was nice work! As you said ignore the pitch forks and torches because someone will always get worked up about how you do it. It gets way easier as you go and I hope to see more videos like this.
Nice work on the recap job. The Super Famicom is almost impossible to bring back to its original colour once it's that yellowed. Unfortunately they tend to just go from yellow to white if you retrobright them enough (no grey zone). And thanks for the shoutout!
Agreed about that box art, and I wouldn't be surprised if someone just squirted a bunch of flux on that board before reflowing it and never cleaned it off. I like the 8-Bit Guy's method for retro-brighting, because it seems to be the most thorough method all around.
Man, excellent job at recapping the Super Famicom! I was like you when I wanted to, and decided to start learning how to recap, and as such, how to solder and desolder, my own Super Nintendo console last year. The first one I did, which is a console I've had since the early 2000s, I was successful with, did not lift or otherwise tear any pads off the pcb board, and it still works great now. I then decided to start buying and "collecting" earlier / SHVC model Super Nintendos off eBay... the first one, I was successful with. Then, the next one, is when I had my first experience with lifting / ripping a solder pad off the board. But overall, its been giving me practice and experience with doing that kind of work, and I'm not too upset that I messed up not just that 3rd console, but also a 4th replacement board I bought to put into that 3rd console. I went the method of, use a soldering iron to heat up one side of the surface-mount caps, and slowly and gently tilt that side of it upward, then switch over and do the same thing with the other side of it, and just back and forth maybe once more of each side until it comes off. Yes, that method has worked great for me, like I said, my first two times / first two console projects were successful with no damage on my part. I was afraid that the method you used, would no doubt lift or rip off pads, but I'm glad to know that, at least in your case, it didn't.
Famicom Tetris is fascinating because it was technically unlicensed, but it directly resulted in the same team doing Nintendo's international versions on Game Boy and NES. It also got two sequels in the form of Tetris 2/Super Tetris 2 (unrelated to the worldwide release) and Super Tetris 3, which are both significantly better. Though admittedly, the definitive version of Tetris in Japan is Sega's arcade version, which is as iconic there as the NES/GB versions are here.
Having lived in Japan for since the early 2010s I don’t know how much you paid for the SFC but the condition is “woof”. A gem quality working SFC should’ve only cost about 4,000 yen at most. Yoshi’s island is a 110 yen game at most. The three games you got for the SFC that ranged 500 to 800 yen must have been from a tourist trap here. Be aware anyone buying vintage stuff from Japan these days. Due to a weak yen the junk items are being sold overseas at inflated prices. If you really want a working Yoshi’s Island I will send you one free of charge MJD because I love your content. Maybe some candy or something with it. Also, here in Japan there are USB adapters for the power input available as well as pre modified FCs with AV out.
@MichaelMJD You did great! Your soldering technique was good, it seemed like you were being very careful and methodical with your approach to the work needing to be done and you seemed like you were taking things one step at a time. I say bravo! The only thing I would do different, and maybe do this in your restoration video, since that bottom of the SuperFam can't be restored to it's original color, spray paint it. Find a darker shade of grey that will match the top face and eject button. Lowes carries a great selection of paints but there are other places to buy them. It doesn't have to be exact, just close enough and it will look really sharp! I've done this myself to systems that have very bad discoloring. Also get a gloss clear coat to finish or it will look weird. Good luck and have fun!
If you don't mind, I have some suggestions for your retro bighting setup. I got into all of the retrobrighting stuff last year, in the end, I got everything working perfectly every time. Get a large plastic storage tub with air tight lid, cover the entire of the inside with tin foil (including the lid). Then get some reels of UV LED stirps (I use 905nm), repeat the last step with the lights, covering the lid and sides of the tub in LEDS. Do the same clingfilm technique you used in the video (I think you call it seranwrap?). Place it inside the box, put the lid on and put the box on a heat mat. The heat mat is important because it activates the Peroxide. I'm sure you get advice about this stuff all the time, but this works perfect for me, every time, and I thought it might help you.
I appreciate the suggestions! I’ve tried a few different lighting arrangements/setups but haven’t considered using strip lights before - that sounds like it might be worth a try! I’ve used this lighting setup a few times in the past and usually get pretty good results with it so I’ve just kinda stuck with it haha. But I’ll make a note of this for next time!
@neuro_davinci I thought the purpose of the peroxide is to get in contact with the plastic to react. In Michael's video, the inside of the case were not touching the peroxide at all. does the peroxide need to physically touch the case or just the off gassing from heat is enough?
Fantastic video. I was watching a bunch of retro console repairs, and then your new vid release, and boom similar subject. I hope to see that copy of Yoshi's Island working one day.
25:14 Might be worth reflowing the solder joints on all the chips inside the cart. I know some game boy carts have that problem where legs on the chips lose connection to the board and then of course the game doesn’t work.
OMG Thank you! You saved my super famicom! I was looking all over for this issue and no one had details! THANK YOU AGAIN! and I am now a dedicated subscriber now.
gratz on you fixing your Super Famicom! Bummer you got the revision with the old CPU. So I recommend you have as much fun with it as you can and get as much out of it as you can. Enjoy this device as it was made for enjoyment!
MattKC fixed a similar issue on a Wii. The capacitors that smooth video out the signal were old and needed replacing. The whole testing, research, fixing process was very similar as well including the "best way to remove capacitors" conundrum.
i recently found out there are two through hole caps inside the RF housing in a SNES! crazy! congrats on your recap! it's so nice when it fires back up no problem!
you can leave hydrogen peroxide in water and bathe it in, getting the bubbles out twice a day. it doesn't require heat or light, it just takes a week, but it comes out perfect.
Man nice job on that recapping, good stuff. I bodged my first surface mount attempt, lifted the pad right off the board because i was too scared to do the twist (heh). Naturally my 2nd attempt went just fine and replaced several, all because i did the twist anyway regardless of any fears. -my first ever full console recap was my childhood sega CDX.. to all the people whose hearts just stopped at hearing this; It was successful :^)).
I dont expect my comment to be read, but you can simply put your iron on the capacitor while ON. The heat will affect the capacitor's ESR value, thus making less resistive. Great trick for quick diagnosis. You might also want to measure any DC offset on each side of the capacitors, preventing a DC potential to get through a "leaky capacitor". That will negatively affect your signal fed to the television. In addition, you can get an oscilloscope to visually measure the signals and also a great way to get acquainted with a scope. For your solder, keep in mind that computer motherboard contains Lead Free solder. Over the counter iron for sale are for the most part decent for leaded solder. Acquiring regular board like any old device would be a much better option for practice. Motherboards needs lot of heat to work with. Good work all in all !
I'm actually kind of annoyed to see this video doesn't seem to be doing as well as your other videos. I really liked this one and I appreciate that a lot of work went into this video...
Honestly, "retrobrighting" isn't good for the console in the long run and would be fine leaving it brown. Good video though and I'm glad there is another in-depth repair video.
Some advice from another person who learned soldering and electronics repair courtesy of youtube: Practicing on a PC motherboard is starting on hard mode. PC Motherboards are often 4+ layers of copper, and often have very large copper ground and power planes that take up 1-2 of those layers, so trying to get solder flowing on them is like pulling teeth. The huge copper plate acts like a heat sink and wicks away the heat on your soldering tip very quickly. Another issue with large multi-layer PCBs you want to be aware of is the potential for the board to warp and damage itself due to localized heating causing thermal expansion in one area only. This is more of a problem with hot air rework, but you can also cause this by overheating a stubborn ground connection in an attempt to remove it.
Even I have to say... You did a remarkable job for a soldering beginner with only the tools you had on hand! 😆 EDIT: Not to mention that your retrobriting was a lot more MacGuyver-esque (and thus, more effective) than certain other RUclipsrs with probably more experience in that field.
The OG Famicom's design did really age very well. 🎮 I really like how the controllers connect to the sides and the cartridges are smaller and easier to look at versus what we got here in the states.
So did you get these units from Yahoo! Japan Auction using buyee? How much was the combined shipping? I ask because you say you got them for $20, and wondering if that was what you won price was or is there some buy it now I am missing?
I have the same problem with my european version of Yoshi's Island. Every other game I throw at my (european) Super Nintendo works, just Yoshi's Island gives me a black screen without anything working. Had a friend reflow all the solder on the game's cardridge but to no avail. The seller still insists it worked on his end. Cleaning up the pads and all the stuff didn't work for me either. If anyone has a suggestion as for what might be the problem, I'd also be happy to know! By the way: for your first soldering job you did very well! Glad to see another of these great retro consoles back to be fully working! Treat them well :)
It's great that the problem was only the caps. That model of SFC is one of the first generations of the system. You can tell first generation SFC consoles because they have 4 rubber feet at the bottom. However those models are known for chip failure problems. Replacing the caps helped extend its life.
25:11 had the same problem with mario rpg on my usa snes, the cartridge slot had 2 broken pins which caused mario rpg fail to load. replaced the cartridge slot and now working fine, also you could also clean the cartridge slot
When I bought my Famicom, it came with a composite video mod and a Chinese power adapter that could vary the output it was working with. For anyone looking into these consoles, I would recommend doing so as well.
I worked in electronics manufacturing for 30 years & twisting sm electrolytic caps is definitely the way to go. I never used braid to clean up pads though. I've seen to many people solder the braid to the pads & rip them off.
21:48 The hot air station is pretty much being used by anyone who's doing surface mounted components and chips these days. You likely won't waste money buying one of those.
You can break off tabs on the American SNES and play Super Famicom games. Aside from that, I'd suggest cleaning the cartridge slot. One thing I tried was folding an index card, putting some isopropyl on it, and putting the folded end into the cartridge slot. You see some dark streaks come out, so you know that's doing something.
Great video as always. I'm curious about one thing. In that Yoshi game, did you check if the chip legs are loose? Seen a few videos where people fixed games by resoldering chip legs. I will admit, those were Gameboy games but maybe there's a similar problem with this Yoshi.
The nice thing about the the Famicom and Super Famicom is they have the same AC adapter, down to the part number. Additionally, it has the same specs/connector as the ones used with the Mega Drive 1 and PC Engine. I use my US Mega Drive adapter on my JP MD, Famicom, and SFC.
Michael, try a plain old white eraser that you probably have lying around for that copy of Yoshi's Island. You'll see the dirt come off as you brush through the pins. You'd be surprised at how well it works at reviving cartridges.
I collect consoles and people who know this often try to get me to buy old beat up consoles that have clearly been laying in a trash heap for decades, but for ebay prices. And they can never power it on or anything using the "I don't have thr cables" excuse but always insist its "probably" working. I always tell them- for exactly the reasons shown in this video- if you don't see it running with your own eyes for at least ten minutes, it's broken.
If you encounter other devices with a messed up video output I can suggest using an analog b&w TV for testing. Their simpler circuitry can usually deal with an improper signal level better than newer televisions, and especially better than modern digital capture devices which expect a near-perfect signal.
I got a Macintosh classic II that needs to be recapped and I have a similar amount of soldering and no capping experience. Seeing this has motivated me a bit more to attempt it.
[Pauses video at 14:49] Capacitors! The caps which condition the analog video are effed. Something like 90% of "for parts - not working" SFCs I've bought have this same problem, and they're written off as 'dead'. Once the sync signal goes too far out of spec, your video is just hosed. (And on newer TVs, you won't even see ANYTHING!) HOWEVER, this only affects the AV Multi-Out; the RF output should be fine! That's always a quick way to confirm the hypothesis. [Unpause] 15:43 Called it. 😏 16:32 HAHA, holy shit, there I am! 😂😂😂😂 Annnnd somehow you found what has to be my single most bizarrely vague rendition of this explanation... 😅 20:33 Oh *no.* 😰 23:14 My dude, you had me worried for nothing! That is easily one of the best recap jobs I've seen from a total beginner. 😃👌 23:26 That's what I'm talkin' about. Congrats on a job well done! 🎉 25:56 "I can think of a few things........how much room have you got in your luggage?" 😏 26:15 Nice! I've been collecting the Jikkyou Powerful Pro Yakyuu series. 😄 HELL YES, SPACE BAZOOKA! lol, Battle Clash was one of my childhood favorites on the SNES. The name, and the box art, are just so much more *rad* in Japan though. 🤣👍 31:47 Uh-oh, I was *beginning to wonder* if you realized it was a Super Scope game. 😬 32:19 I'd open up the copy of Yoshi's Island again and give the pins a thorough scrubbing with a pink pencil eraser, and then clean it up with IPA. Sometimes the light abrasive of the eraser is the only thing that works! Fun AC adapter facts: The Famicom and Super Famicom use literally the same power brick. The SFC originally didn't ship with one in the box, because it was assumed you'd use your Famicom one or buy it separately. An NES adapter will fry a Famicom, but a Famicom/Super Famicom adapter will work on an NES just fine. In fact, running it on DC may be better for it. (Funny how rectification works!) The bizarre choice to run the NES off AC is actually why they went with that oddball barrel jack for the SNES; when they decided to just use the same motherboards in both regions instead of getting 'creative' like they did with the NES, they had to come up with a way to make sure people wouldn't mix up the AC adapters and fry the SNES. Strangely this then led to them using that oddball connector for the power supply to the Satellaview so you wouldn't mix up the SFC and Satellaview power bricks. (Because only the Satellaview one had enough amperage to power the daisy chain of both devices.) Great video, you've earned a new subscriber. (And not just because I showed up in your video. 😏)
Actually a very early rev.1 Super Famicom that, where the Sony soundchip is located in the independent module next to the caps you recapped. Odd that Nintendo decided the sound circuitry needed such overkill shielding and isolation. The later revisions had the soundchip integrated on the main motherboard, with apparently no change in sound quality. Some folk like to claim that the early models might even have slightly noisier output.
The Super Famicom works with a 9V DC power supply. The only thing connected to the AC is the bridge rectifier which will happily pass the DC through with no issue
I love how Nintendo using plastic that yellows for one piece and plastic that doesn't for the other is consistent across versions despite the different case designs.
I got a copy of Yoshi's Island the other day that booted and froze at the "Nintendo" logo right after the chime sound. Cleaning the contacts made no difference. The board was in great condition and looked perfectly fine visually. I reflowed the legs of all the chips and it works fine now.
Everyone has their own retrobrighting favorite, but try just good old strong sunlight for about 1 to 3 days. Not sure about those up North, but it works fine in the sunshine state.
When I was a kid I could get only Polish Pegasus console which were Famicom clones and now as I remember, they have also very similar packaging style like these in a video. One big peace of molded styrofoam. Also just recently I have watched Adrian's digital basement channel last video and his wiggle method - he was recapping apple Mac Classic II and used same method.
The Japanese design of the SNES is a familiar one, being the same basic design used here in Europe - I like it. The Japanese Famicom though... man that's such a charming, lovely design. I knew what it looked like but actually seeing one here really hammers that home - lovely.
Good job getting that SFC working. I'm sure you were doing this for the experience, since I found it easier to break the two plastic pieces from my SNES to allow Japanese games to work. But that probably wouldn't make an interesting video. I lived in Japan in the early 2000s an found Japanese games to be way cheaper. I suspect that Japanese people don't think of games as an investment like in the US (heck, even real estate is not considered good investment in Japan for a number of reasons). Or maybe space constraints is the primary driver. It's easy to find games for under $5.
Incredible deja vu in this video for MattKC's "Buying a $1 Wii from Japan." His Wii had similar visual output issues, and faulty capacitors was also the issue! He also had a nerve-racking experience attempting to replace them. Highly recommend the video if you haven't seen it.
They should Collab
mattkc is goated
I enjoyed seeing a more technical restoration video. Great job with the recapping!
Great job on your first time recapping! So glad it was successful!
Fun fact: The Super Nintendo in PAL regions shared the same console, controller, and cartridge design as the Super Famicom. Only the US was different with their Super Nintendo.
Brazilian PAL-M version of Super Nintendo (1993) had the same console, controller and cartridge design as the the US Super Nintendo. Not sure if it counts as PAL as well.
@@alvesrenanmusic Oh, really? That's actually something I've never known before. Thanks!
the super famicom/pal snes looks better then ntsc snes
only downside is that they added resistors to the PAL SNES controllers to make it incompatible with any NTSC systems. they even region locked controllers
@@alvesrenanmusicChad USA
I think I’ve been watching this channel for years
20 hours ago? video 40 mins ago.
someone is time travling
I get early access to videos
@@Cyby124can't wait till we get to the point where we stop having people ask this every single time.
@@f5203 bruh.
@@f5203this is the first time i seen this. chris told me the answer. you did not need to say that
30:45 That pitcher had no idea what he was doing, walking two batters back-to-back like that.
i absolutely love the look of the super famicoms box. great vid
fr
fr
The twist method works just fine. The important part with it is to not pull up as you could lift the trace pulling up. Personally I bought a cheap 858D hot air station and used that to desolder my SNES's caps.
The Famicom's design really aged very well. I really like how the controllers connect to the side and the cartages are smaller and easier to look at VS what we got in the USA
And you Can Still Buy Them today
If only the controllers had longer cords and was detachable.
rf only though which sucks unless you want to mod it
the reason we got the NES design in the US is because of the video game crash, nintendo marketed the NES as an "entertainment system" rather than a home console and made the NES look more like a VCR, which is why you insert the cartridges in the NES like that
@@pum6454 I'm well aware, but thank you.
Bravo on your first recap! Well done.
Yo love the content bro, keep grinding ❤
heart emoji
Hey! I work at Sally Beauty, was shocked to see Salon Care developer in yet another non hair application! it works wonders for whitening yellowed objects up, however, make sure you restock your developer at least every year! Even if the cap is screwed tight, developer typically will last up to a year before degrading in quality/efficacy. Weirdly enough, it'll start to have similar qualities to spoiled milk, having an off smell and starting to 'curdle'. Just wanted to make sure as I haven't seen that labeling for it in a while :) Love your content, keep it up!
For retrobrighting people tend to be happy to let it degrade a little bit, since it just makes it take longer to get the same results. The people who use large tubs of liquid tend to reuse that and max out their money's worth. But yeah, I'd never dream of using anything like that on my hair.
Enjoyed being along for the process. Great vid
I watched mattkc’s wii video and immediately knew what the problem was with the snes
MJD, I’ve been watching you for a while now. Thank you for always making good content I can watch.
You did great on those surface mounts!
Awesome episode! About the caps, Adrian Black from Adrian's Digital Basement use that method with some differences. In both his channels he recently made a full recap of Mac motherboards and explained everything about it too. And finally... The cool time-lapse is back! 😊
youtube vanced
Yeah, he convinced me it is the best method. He is doing it all the time and it never really failed him.
Wow for a first time recapper and SMD to boot, that was nice work! As you said ignore the pitch forks and torches because someone will always get worked up about how you do it. It gets way easier as you go and I hope to see more videos like this.
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Nice work on the recap job. The Super Famicom is almost impossible to bring back to its original colour once it's that yellowed. Unfortunately they tend to just go from yellow to white if you retrobright them enough (no grey zone). And thanks for the shoutout!
hi
this is a really great video michael!!! love seeing your process of hardware troubleshooting (and gaming, of course)
Agreed about that box art, and I wouldn't be surprised if someone just squirted a bunch of flux on that board before reflowing it and never cleaned it off. I like the 8-Bit Guy's method for retro-brighting, because it seems to be the most thorough method all around.
My SFC has the same flux around the main chips. I assume it's just that gross from the factory.
I would be too nervous to recap anything so I’m impressed you got right your first time
Man, excellent job at recapping the Super Famicom! I was like you when I wanted to, and decided to start learning how to recap, and as such, how to solder and desolder, my own Super Nintendo console last year. The first one I did, which is a console I've had since the early 2000s, I was successful with, did not lift or otherwise tear any pads off the pcb board, and it still works great now. I then decided to start buying and "collecting" earlier / SHVC model Super Nintendos off eBay... the first one, I was successful with. Then, the next one, is when I had my first experience with lifting / ripping a solder pad off the board. But overall, its been giving me practice and experience with doing that kind of work, and I'm not too upset that I messed up not just that 3rd console, but also a 4th replacement board I bought to put into that 3rd console. I went the method of, use a soldering iron to heat up one side of the surface-mount caps, and slowly and gently tilt that side of it upward, then switch over and do the same thing with the other side of it, and just back and forth maybe once more of each side until it comes off. Yes, that method has worked great for me, like I said, my first two times / first two console projects were successful with no damage on my part. I was afraid that the method you used, would no doubt lift or rip off pads, but I'm glad to know that, at least in your case, it didn't.
The music and retrobrite makes me think of the 8-bit guy! Love both of your channels
Famicom Tetris is fascinating because it was technically unlicensed, but it directly resulted in the same team doing Nintendo's international versions on Game Boy and NES.
It also got two sequels in the form of Tetris 2/Super Tetris 2 (unrelated to the worldwide release) and Super Tetris 3, which are both significantly better. Though admittedly, the definitive version of Tetris in Japan is Sega's arcade version, which is as iconic there as the NES/GB versions are here.
Congrats on your successful recap job! It's nerve wrecking as hell to have to do the surface mounts but is so satisfying when you succeed.
Having lived in Japan for since the early 2010s I don’t know how much you paid for the SFC but the condition is “woof”. A gem quality working SFC should’ve only cost about 4,000 yen at most. Yoshi’s island is a 110 yen game at most. The three games you got for the SFC that ranged 500 to 800 yen must have been from a tourist trap here. Be aware anyone buying vintage stuff from Japan these days. Due to a weak yen the junk items are being sold overseas at inflated prices. If you really want a working Yoshi’s Island I will send you one free of charge MJD because I love your content. Maybe some candy or something with it. Also, here in Japan there are USB adapters for the power input available as well as pre modified FCs with AV out.
Thank you so much MichaelMJD for your videos i've been watching your videos for a long time. I love your videos
Great restoration! Makes me wonder now if you are going to continue on the Compaq Portable.
I've been waiting for the second part in years.
@MichaelMJD
You did great! Your soldering technique was good, it seemed like you were being very careful and methodical with your approach to the work needing to be done and you seemed like you were taking things one step at a time. I say bravo! The only thing I would do different, and maybe do this in your restoration video, since that bottom of the SuperFam can't be restored to it's original color, spray paint it. Find a darker shade of grey that will match the top face and eject button. Lowes carries a great selection of paints but there are other places to buy them. It doesn't have to be exact, just close enough and it will look really sharp! I've done this myself to systems that have very bad discoloring. Also get a gloss clear coat to finish or it will look weird. Good luck and have fun!
If you don't mind, I have some suggestions for your retro bighting setup. I got into all of the retrobrighting stuff last year, in the end, I got everything working perfectly every time. Get a large plastic storage tub with air tight lid, cover the entire of the inside with tin foil (including the lid). Then get some reels of UV LED stirps (I use 905nm), repeat the last step with the lights, covering the lid and sides of the tub in LEDS. Do the same clingfilm technique you used in the video (I think you call it seranwrap?). Place it inside the box, put the lid on and put the box on a heat mat. The heat mat is important because it activates the Peroxide.
I'm sure you get advice about this stuff all the time, but this works perfect for me, every time, and I thought it might help you.
I appreciate the suggestions! I’ve tried a few different lighting arrangements/setups but haven’t considered using strip lights before - that sounds like it might be worth a try! I’ve used this lighting setup a few times in the past and usually get pretty good results with it so I’ve just kinda stuck with it haha. But I’ll make a note of this for next time!
Isn't this the same setup that odd tinkering uses?
@neuro_davinci I thought the purpose of the peroxide is to get in contact with the plastic to react. In Michael's video, the inside of the case were not touching the peroxide at all. does the peroxide need to physically touch the case or just the off gassing from heat is enough?
Fantastic video. I was watching a bunch of retro console repairs, and then your new vid release, and boom similar subject. I hope to see that copy of Yoshi's Island working one day.
25:14 Might be worth reflowing the solder joints on all the chips inside the cart. I know some game boy carts have that problem where legs on the chips lose connection to the board and then of course the game doesn’t work.
It's also one of the games with a Super FX2 chip so might be related as well
This is really great. Possibly one of my favorites for restoration!
OMG Thank you! You saved my super famicom! I was looking all over for this issue and no one had details! THANK YOU AGAIN! and I am now a dedicated subscriber now.
gratz on you fixing your Super Famicom!
Bummer you got the revision with the old CPU. So I recommend you have as much fun with it as you can and get as much out of it as you can.
Enjoy this device as it was made for enjoyment!
MattKC fixed a similar issue on a Wii. The capacitors that smooth video out the signal were old and needed replacing.
The whole testing, research, fixing process was very similar as well including the "best way to remove capacitors" conundrum.
Very interesting video! Love it! ❤️
I have been watching you for about 3 years now. Thank you for all your content!!
i recently found out there are two through hole caps inside the RF housing in a SNES! crazy!
congrats on your recap! it's so nice when it fires back up no problem!
you can leave hydrogen peroxide in water and bathe it in, getting the bubbles out twice a day. it doesn't require heat or light, it just takes a week, but it comes out perfect.
Now, i did not expect to receive fixing, recaping and retrobrighting on this channel, what a surprise, but welcome one 👍
Man nice job on that recapping, good stuff. I bodged my first surface mount attempt, lifted the pad right off the board because i was too scared to do the twist (heh).
Naturally my 2nd attempt went just fine and replaced several, all because i did the twist anyway regardless of any fears.
-my first ever full console recap was my childhood sega CDX.. to all the people whose hearts just stopped at hearing this; It was successful :^)).
I dont expect my comment to be read, but you can simply put your iron on the capacitor while ON. The heat will affect the capacitor's ESR value, thus making less resistive. Great trick for quick diagnosis. You might also want to measure any DC offset on each side of the capacitors, preventing a DC potential to get through a "leaky capacitor". That will negatively affect your signal fed to the television. In addition, you can get an oscilloscope to visually measure the signals and also a great way to get acquainted with a scope. For your solder, keep in mind that computer motherboard contains Lead Free solder. Over the counter iron for sale are for the most part decent for leaded solder. Acquiring regular board like any old device would be a much better option for practice. Motherboards needs lot of heat to work with. Good work all in all !
I'm actually kind of annoyed to see this video doesn't seem to be doing as well as your other videos. I really liked this one and I appreciate that a lot of work went into this video...
Amazing work on replacing the caps!!
Honestly, "retrobrighting" isn't good for the console in the long run and would be fine leaving it brown. Good video though and I'm glad there is another in-depth repair video.
very cool video, man! glad you got it working
Great work on the recap!
Great content man :)
Congratulation on the successful recap!
$20 each for the FC and SFC is a huge deal. Amazing find and nice restoration vid!
Some advice from another person who learned soldering and electronics repair courtesy of youtube:
Practicing on a PC motherboard is starting on hard mode. PC Motherboards are often 4+ layers of copper, and often have very large copper ground and power planes that take up 1-2 of those layers, so trying to get solder flowing on them is like pulling teeth. The huge copper plate acts like a heat sink and wicks away the heat on your soldering tip very quickly.
Another issue with large multi-layer PCBs you want to be aware of is the potential for the board to warp and damage itself due to localized heating causing thermal expansion in one area only. This is more of a problem with hot air rework, but you can also cause this by overheating a stubborn ground connection in an attempt to remove it.
Even I have to say... You did a remarkable job for a soldering beginner with only the tools you had on hand! 😆
EDIT: Not to mention that your retrobriting was a lot more MacGuyver-esque (and thus, more effective) than certain other RUclipsrs with probably more experience in that field.
what a good video man, I love your style
Very good video, I enjoyed it. Well done on replacing the capacitors first try 👍
This video gonna be fire 🔥
I really like this different style of video it has a nice flow to it
The OG Famicom's design did really age very well. 🎮
I really like how the controllers connect to the sides and the cartridges are smaller and easier to look at versus what we got here in the states.
You should also buy the disk system for the famicom
your videos are the ultimate calming experience
More like this one, Please 😊
So did you get these units from Yahoo! Japan Auction using buyee? How much was the combined shipping? I ask because you say you got them for $20, and wondering if that was what you won price was or is there some buy it now I am missing?
I love the timelapse music. It just gives me a feeling I can't explain.
I really love Japanese consoles, and I’m glad to see you covering things like this! (Hope you enjoy the retro games!)
michaels content honestly makes my day
I have the same problem with my european version of Yoshi's Island. Every other game I throw at my (european) Super Nintendo works, just Yoshi's Island gives me a black screen without anything working. Had a friend reflow all the solder on the game's cardridge but to no avail. The seller still insists it worked on his end. Cleaning up the pads and all the stuff didn't work for me either.
If anyone has a suggestion as for what might be the problem, I'd also be happy to know!
By the way: for your first soldering job you did very well! Glad to see another of these great retro consoles back to be fully working! Treat them well :)
It's great that the problem was only the caps. That model of SFC is one of the first generations of the system. You can tell first generation SFC consoles because they have 4 rubber feet at the bottom. However those models are known for chip failure problems. Replacing the caps helped extend its life.
25:11 had the same problem with mario rpg on my usa snes, the cartridge slot had 2 broken pins which caused mario rpg fail to load. replaced the cartridge slot and now working fine, also you could also clean the cartridge slot
When I bought my Famicom, it came with a composite video mod and a Chinese power adapter that could vary the output it was working with. For anyone looking into these consoles, I would recommend doing so as well.
I worked in electronics manufacturing for 30 years & twisting sm electrolytic caps is definitely the way to go. I never used braid to clean up pads though. I've seen to many people solder the braid to the pads & rip them off.
21:48 The hot air station is pretty much being used by anyone who's doing surface mounted components and chips these days. You likely won't waste money buying one of those.
You can break off tabs on the American SNES and play Super Famicom games. Aside from that, I'd suggest cleaning the cartridge slot. One thing I tried was folding an index card, putting some isopropyl on it, and putting the folded end into the cartridge slot. You see some dark streaks come out, so you know that's doing something.
I love this style of video!
Great video as always. I'm curious about one thing. In that Yoshi game, did you check if the chip legs are loose? Seen a few videos where people fixed games by resoldering chip legs. I will admit, those were Gameboy games but maybe there's a similar problem with this Yoshi.
I need an SFC in my life.
Where the heck do u find those for 20 bucks!
good recapping job Michael
The nice thing about the the Famicom and Super Famicom is they have the same AC adapter, down to the part number. Additionally, it has the same specs/connector as the ones used with the Mega Drive 1 and PC Engine. I use my US Mega Drive adapter on my JP MD, Famicom, and SFC.
Michael, try a plain old white eraser that you probably have lying around for that copy of Yoshi's Island. You'll see the dirt come off as you brush through the pins. You'd be surprised at how well it works at reviving cartridges.
The 8 bit guy recapped a macentosh LC 2 and had simmeralar capacitors and used the same methead to pull them off and not damage the solder pad!!!
I collect consoles and people who know this often try to get me to buy old beat up consoles that have clearly been laying in a trash heap for decades, but for ebay prices. And they can never power it on or anything using the "I don't have thr cables" excuse but always insist its "probably" working. I always tell them- for exactly the reasons shown in this video- if you don't see it running with your own eyes for at least ten minutes, it's broken.
Nice to see, I always wanted a set of them..... Hmmm, I think I will have to finally do this...
If you encounter other devices with a messed up video output I can suggest using an analog b&w TV for testing. Their simpler circuitry can usually deal with an improper signal level better than newer televisions, and especially better than modern digital capture devices which expect a near-perfect signal.
This video was kino, keep it up MJD
I got a Macintosh classic II that needs to be recapped and I have a similar amount of soldering and no capping experience. Seeing this has motivated me a bit more to attempt it.
If you need even more motivation, Adrian's Digital Basement did a recent Mac repair-a-thon where he recapped a Classic II among other things.
@@stevethepocket Will look into it, thanks!
Thats the very same power supply that reddit suggested to me for the Sharp Famicom Twin that I bought. It works fantastically for that as well.
[Pauses video at 14:49] Capacitors! The caps which condition the analog video are effed. Something like 90% of "for parts - not working" SFCs I've bought have this same problem, and they're written off as 'dead'. Once the sync signal goes too far out of spec, your video is just hosed. (And on newer TVs, you won't even see ANYTHING!) HOWEVER, this only affects the AV Multi-Out; the RF output should be fine! That's always a quick way to confirm the hypothesis. [Unpause]
15:43 Called it. 😏
16:32 HAHA, holy shit, there I am! 😂😂😂😂 Annnnd somehow you found what has to be my single most bizarrely vague rendition of this explanation... 😅
20:33 Oh *no.* 😰
23:14 My dude, you had me worried for nothing! That is easily one of the best recap jobs I've seen from a total beginner. 😃👌
23:26 That's what I'm talkin' about. Congrats on a job well done! 🎉
25:56 "I can think of a few things........how much room have you got in your luggage?" 😏
26:15 Nice! I've been collecting the Jikkyou Powerful Pro Yakyuu series. 😄 HELL YES, SPACE BAZOOKA! lol, Battle Clash was one of my childhood favorites on the SNES. The name, and the box art, are just so much more *rad* in Japan though. 🤣👍
31:47 Uh-oh, I was *beginning to wonder* if you realized it was a Super Scope game. 😬
32:19 I'd open up the copy of Yoshi's Island again and give the pins a thorough scrubbing with a pink pencil eraser, and then clean it up with IPA. Sometimes the light abrasive of the eraser is the only thing that works!
Fun AC adapter facts: The Famicom and Super Famicom use literally the same power brick. The SFC originally didn't ship with one in the box, because it was assumed you'd use your Famicom one or buy it separately. An NES adapter will fry a Famicom, but a Famicom/Super Famicom adapter will work on an NES just fine. In fact, running it on DC may be better for it. (Funny how rectification works!) The bizarre choice to run the NES off AC is actually why they went with that oddball barrel jack for the SNES; when they decided to just use the same motherboards in both regions instead of getting 'creative' like they did with the NES, they had to come up with a way to make sure people wouldn't mix up the AC adapters and fry the SNES. Strangely this then led to them using that oddball connector for the power supply to the Satellaview so you wouldn't mix up the SFC and Satellaview power bricks. (Because only the Satellaview one had enough amperage to power the daisy chain of both devices.)
Great video, you've earned a new subscriber. (And not just because I showed up in your video. 😏)
Actually a very early rev.1 Super Famicom that, where the Sony soundchip is located in the independent module next to the caps you recapped. Odd that Nintendo decided the sound circuitry needed such overkill shielding and isolation. The later revisions had the soundchip integrated on the main motherboard, with apparently no change in sound quality. Some folk like to claim that the early models might even have slightly noisier output.
The Super Famicom works with a 9V DC power supply. The only thing connected to the AC is the bridge rectifier which will happily pass the DC through with no issue
time for a good time lapse
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I love how Nintendo using plastic that yellows for one piece and plastic that doesn't for the other is consistent across versions despite the different case designs.
did anyone else notice the different style of editing
i think its a nice fresh up and its an interesting style
I got a copy of Yoshi's Island the other day that booted and froze at the "Nintendo" logo right after the chime sound. Cleaning the contacts made no difference. The board was in great condition and looked perfectly fine visually. I reflowed the legs of all the chips and it works fine now.
Great job MJD well done replacing caps
Everyone has their own retrobrighting favorite, but try just good old strong sunlight for about 1 to 3 days. Not sure about those up North, but it works fine in the sunshine state.
When I was a kid I could get only Polish Pegasus console which were Famicom clones and now as I remember, they have also very similar packaging style like these in a video. One big peace of molded styrofoam.
Also just recently I have watched Adrian's digital basement channel last video and his wiggle method - he was recapping apple Mac Classic II and used same method.
The Japanese design of the SNES is a familiar one, being the same basic design used here in Europe - I like it. The Japanese Famicom though... man that's such a charming, lovely design. I knew what it looked like but actually seeing one here really hammers that home - lovely.
Good job getting that SFC working. I'm sure you were doing this for the experience, since I found it easier to break the two plastic pieces from my SNES to allow Japanese games to work. But that probably wouldn't make an interesting video. I lived in Japan in the early 2000s an found Japanese games to be way cheaper. I suspect that Japanese people don't think of games as an investment like in the US (heck, even real estate is not considered good investment in Japan for a number of reasons). Or maybe space constraints is the primary driver. It's easy to find games for under $5.
I can remember the video that you made years ago about the SNES, which is related to this video