Keep it up my dude. I modified the sidecharger/slick side upper with a bit of front pin reinforcement. It is fucking awesome. Also if you want your welcome to hop in on a podcast.
This is awesome. Have you tested the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate or Priline “Superhard” CF GF PC available on Amazon? I’ve been printing your lowers in it and think it’s quite nice compared to HTPLA. This machine would tell whether it’s actually as good as I think it is.
I'll need to try some! I just tested some Taulman 910 Nylon. I have been using an unfilled PC blend for most of my printing. I just don't think those fibers are helping ;)
@@HoffmanTactical You are absolutely right, the fibers hurt layer adhesion. However they dramatically help reduce warping. This Priline CF PC filament does not warp at all in my experience compared to nylon which I can't get to not warp on large objects. I believe straight PC or Nylon to be stronger, but this stuff is a "best compromise".
How you go about learning what your know? Did you have to go to school for this? Was just just homeschool? If so what school. Thats quite impressive where your at right now.
You just look it up online. Don't take a class to learn this stuff, this is basically "hacking" in the truest form and you only learn to do it by learning small bits and then combining it yourself into novel products. The best way to teach yourself is to simply do projects. Each project teaches you something which expands your knowledge making the next project easier to do. For this reason one person cannot teach you what you need to know since their priorities and projects are likely to differ from yours, if that makes sense. If you don't know something, take the time to learn it. On the manufacturing side, obviously you should learn basic metalworking skills (like how to use a drill, file, angle grinder, welder, etc.) and 3D printing. On the electrical side, learn what P=IV is and how that relates to electrical power. Learn how to make circuits (simplest starting point is a light bulb or motor). Then learn how to use and program a project board (Arduino Uno is the most common and cheapest ~$8-15 for a Chinese made one). Find a project you want to do with an Arduino and go to town. You just have to do it once then you will get the hang of it fast. Once you have these basics, learn how to CAD. CAD skills are mandatory for any CNC device such as 3D printing. While you could just print out files others already made, CAD allows you to make exactly what you want, or fix designs of other people. Fusion 360 is a common program suggested but due to issues regarding paywall I would suggest tinkercad as a bare bones basic online option, designspark mechanical or solvespace.
I presume that arduino's getting controlled via uart? If you don't mind a bit of extra coding, you could have it output the data in a csv format which is really easy to do. Then when you connect to the uart shit in terminal run the command like this: command > file.csv < inputs.txt where inputs are the keyboard inputs you need to make to get the program to run, and file.csv will be where all of the text output from the command will be written to. Assuming the output is only the text for a csv file, you should then be able to open the file directly in accel.
I really need to revisit this. If I added a proper set of sample holding jaws, and a Open CV based strain gauge, it would be a really great tool. It also needs to be stronger. 1000 lbs would be nice. But I don't know if the development would be worth the limited number of users.
@@HoffmanTactical cnc kitchen has his open source on got hub but yours is much simpler. Never messed with an andrino either. I thought I had fewer holes in my knowledge set. Lol
It is true, earth does have alien visitors from another time extraterrestrial dimension. Don’t know what your saying, but I am impressed. Gott Mitt Uns
Looking great. Is there any risk of stretching by the ABS mount? For the 1000Lbs couldn't you just get a planetary reduction gearbox out of busted electric tools? They're used to reduce speed from high rpm brushless motors & convert to torque, should work the same for your needs. Also, I realize it'll really only be used for tension, but if you adapt for compression watch out for the single all-thread to bow. Most are only meant to be used in tension, not compression, so they're not properly reinforced and will bend kinda like an ak recoil spring does when compressed if no guides... You're using aluminum rails & printed mounts, so I'm sure all-thread is probably the strongest component there, just be careful & keep up the good work!
@@HoffmanTactical Glad I can help. While I don't know much about printing, I worked in the steel tool & die industry for a few years doing design & fabrication - one of the projects I was tasked with was to make a disability / wheelchair lift for an airplane that utilizes acme threaded rod & half nuts but the issue was binding. If debris got in the slide track it would cause thread rod to bend & disengage from the half nut, causing it to drop suddenly before emergency brakes would catch it. The only way to do the way they wanted was a custom augur style with ball joints which conveniently made the emergency brakes a double redundancy bc even if one side of the lift failed, both sides would need to turn in order for the carriage to go anywhere.
Direct drive like this is great. Thanks for the vid! 👊
Lookin good, moving forward as always.
Keep it up my dude. I modified the sidecharger/slick side upper with a bit of front pin reinforcement. It is fucking awesome. Also if you want your welcome to hop in on a podcast.
@Hoffman Tactical Could you tell me where I can find the code you used? Thanks
Great stuff!
That is an awesome home made tool you made there! How’d you come up with that idea?
This is awesome. Have you tested the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate or Priline “Superhard” CF GF PC available on Amazon? I’ve been printing your lowers in it and think it’s quite nice compared to HTPLA. This machine would tell whether it’s actually as good as I think it is.
Like you, I print the Priline PC hotter than recommended at 275c for best layer adhesion.
I'll need to try some! I just tested some Taulman 910 Nylon.
I have been using an unfilled PC blend for most of my printing. I just don't think those fibers are helping ;)
@@HoffmanTactical You are absolutely right, the fibers hurt layer adhesion. However they dramatically help reduce warping. This Priline CF PC filament does not warp at all in my experience compared to nylon which I can't get to not warp on large objects. I believe straight PC or Nylon to be stronger, but this stuff is a "best compromise".
@@kingjamez80 There is no doubt the CF eliminates warping!
Brother, that is very nice. What filament are you using? Have you tried Nylon with CF? Also, have you considered PEEK?
I am going to get some plain Nylon and try that. PEEK prints to hot for "home" printers.
How you go about learning what your know? Did you have to go to school for this? Was just just homeschool? If so what school. Thats quite impressive where your at right now.
You just look it up online. Don't take a class to learn this stuff, this is basically "hacking" in the truest form and you only learn to do it by learning small bits and then combining it yourself into novel products.
The best way to teach yourself is to simply do projects. Each project teaches you something which expands your knowledge making the next project easier to do. For this reason one person cannot teach you what you need to know since their priorities and projects are likely to differ from yours, if that makes sense. If you don't know something, take the time to learn it.
On the manufacturing side, obviously you should learn basic metalworking skills (like how to use a drill, file, angle grinder, welder, etc.) and 3D printing. On the electrical side, learn what P=IV is and how that relates to electrical power. Learn how to make circuits (simplest starting point is a light bulb or motor). Then learn how to use and program a project board (Arduino Uno is the most common and cheapest ~$8-15 for a Chinese made one). Find a project you want to do with an Arduino and go to town. You just have to do it once then you will get the hang of it fast.
Once you have these basics, learn how to CAD. CAD skills are mandatory for any CNC device such as 3D printing. While you could just print out files others already made, CAD allows you to make exactly what you want, or fix designs of other people. Fusion 360 is a common program suggested but due to issues regarding paywall I would suggest tinkercad as a bare bones basic online option, designspark mechanical or solvespace.
can you share some of the info like circuit diagram and the source code? i am building something similar and would appreciate the help
Sweet as always. Like honey 🍯
He got his curtain up around it. Cool set up. Test resin printers next ?!
I'd like to, though it's probably not in the budget any time soon ;)
I presume that arduino's getting controlled via uart? If you don't mind a bit of extra coding, you could have it output the data in a csv format which is really easy to do. Then when you connect to the uart shit in terminal run the command like this:
command > file.csv < inputs.txt
where inputs are the keyboard inputs you need to make to get the program to run, and file.csv will be where all of the text output from the command will be written to. Assuming the output is only the text for a csv file, you should then be able to open the file directly in accel.
This is interesting. Right now I am simply copying and pasting.
how many KN of force can this thing exert?
have you looked into pctg?
its isotropic as well
Never heard of it before. Like PETG, but better? Would be interesting to try.
@@HoffmanTactical yeah exactly
I'm currently overwhelmed trying to decide how to build one of these tools.
I really need to revisit this. If I added a proper set of sample holding jaws, and a Open CV based strain gauge, it would be a really great tool. It also needs to be stronger. 1000 lbs would be nice. But I don't know if the development would be worth the limited number of users.
@@HoffmanTactical cnc kitchen has his open source on got hub but yours is much simpler. Never messed with an andrino either. I thought I had fewer holes in my knowledge set. Lol
It is true, earth does have alien visitors from another time extraterrestrial dimension.
Don’t know what your saying, but I am impressed.
Gott Mitt Uns
Looking great. Is there any risk of stretching by the ABS mount? For the 1000Lbs couldn't you just get a planetary reduction gearbox out of busted electric tools? They're used to reduce speed from high rpm brushless motors & convert to torque, should work the same for your needs. Also, I realize it'll really only be used for tension, but if you adapt for compression watch out for the single all-thread to bow. Most are only meant to be used in tension, not compression, so they're not properly reinforced and will bend kinda like an ak recoil spring does when compressed if no guides...
You're using aluminum rails & printed mounts, so I'm sure all-thread is probably the strongest component there, just be careful & keep up the good work!
Great point about the ACME screw! I don't intend to do any compression, but it's something to watch for.
@@HoffmanTactical Glad I can help. While I don't know much about printing, I worked in the steel tool & die industry for a few years doing design & fabrication - one of the projects I was tasked with was to make a disability / wheelchair lift for an airplane that utilizes acme threaded rod & half nuts but the issue was binding. If debris got in the slide track it would cause thread rod to bend & disengage from the half nut, causing it to drop suddenly before emergency brakes would catch it. The only way to do the way they wanted was a custom augur style with ball joints which conveniently made the emergency brakes a double redundancy bc even if one side of the lift failed, both sides would need to turn in order for the carriage to go anywhere.
great work ! it works well, can you please share code to all your subscribers ?
It's too ugly to share.
how many kN of force can this thing put out?
Only about ~400 LB.