Thanks for posting, I still have the HW16 I built in the 70's, and the HG10B. Many many enjoyable hours...Always wanted a Hot Water 101, but Heath dropped it before I had the money saved. Will be digging that dusty box out.
I always wanted an HW-16 back in the heyday but never managed? now I have four. The VF-1 VFO is more stable. Modifying the tiny solid state xtals never worked for me? they chirp like mad. The neon sidetone had to go; added a resistor next to the only transistor to unmute the receiver and use on air signal for monitoring,
My novice rig (2-NT) has a little red mark on 75 watts, claimed to do 90. You just knew that if you went over the FCC man peeking in the window would jump in and say "gotcha!" Pleasant memories!
I have one of those too. My second one. My first was my novice rig back in the late 60's. I sold it and regretted it so I bought another and still have it. I got a kick out of that power indicator. Also, it had an interesting meter movement that "went there fast". Those were the days. Now at my old age, I am going to get my rigs dusted off, an antenna put up and back on the air again. Watching and reading sites like this get me going. The HW-16 was the first ham radio rig I ever saw back in 68. My first Heathkit was a GR-64 in '68. I have a SB-101 that was given to me that I need to get working.
You are correct. When I said "A red mark on the meter indicates the plate current corresponding to the 50 Watt maximum power permitted by Novice class operation" I should have said 75 Watts, which was the maximum input power limit for US Novice licenses at the time it was introduced.
A product called "Bar Keepers Friend" is excellent for removing rust and rust stains. However I don't know how it would work on rust that has bled thru paint on the front panel. If you decide to try this I would choose a small rust spot and apply it with a Q-tip. This product comes in a powder and cream. Use with care as it is abrasive and contains Oxalic acid. 73 Mick WB4LSS
Technically this is NOT a transceiver, but a Transmitter-Receiver. The transmitter and receiver do not share any circuitry except for the power supply, and the audio amplifier (for the side tone). If you converted the first stage of the transmitter (crystal oscillator) into a mixer with inputs from the BFO and VFO, then you could transmit on the same frequency that the receiver was tuned to, making this a true transceiver.. (You'd probably want to pull the BFO by about 400hz on transmit to give a slight offset). Since this set was designed for the requirements of the Novice class ham license, the transmitter was crystal controlled.
Hi Jeff. Great reviews! I have an HW 16 and and SB 310. Both need work and should keep me busy :) For the HW16, Can you help me understand how current flows in the HV supply? The doubler circuit is full wave, correct? This is my guess on operation: when the top of T5 is positive, D204/5 are forward biased, and current flows through R202/3 and charges c202 (350v peak). Conversely, when T5 top is negative, D202/3 forward bias and the voltage drop developed across R203 adds to total drop measured c202 to ground, effectively doubling T5 output voltage. Thanks. B
It's been a few years since I looked at the rig. Yes, it is a voltage doubler circuit. The HW-16 manual (there are copies on line) has a Circuit Description section which covers the power supply, although not in a lot of detail.
I love this! Love it! I owned one from 1977 - 1986. I wish I still had it.
Thanks for the video The HW16 was my first rig as a novice
Thanks for posting, I still have the HW16 I built in the 70's, and the HG10B. Many many enjoyable hours...Always wanted a Hot Water 101, but Heath dropped it before I had the money saved. Will be digging that dusty box out.
Your did a very good job at making this video.Thanks for posting.
I always wanted an HW-16 back in the heyday but never managed? now I have four. The VF-1 VFO is more stable. Modifying the tiny solid state xtals never worked for me? they chirp like mad. The neon sidetone had to go; added a resistor next to the only transistor to unmute the receiver and use on air signal for monitoring,
Correction: The Novice was limited to 75 watts of input power.
73
Harvey, KM4JA
My novice rig (2-NT) has a little red mark on 75 watts, claimed to do 90. You just knew that if you went over the FCC man peeking in the window would jump in and say "gotcha!"
Pleasant memories!
I have one of those too. My second one. My first was my novice rig back in the late 60's. I sold it and regretted it so I bought another and still have it. I got a kick out of that power indicator. Also, it had an interesting meter movement that "went there fast".
Those were the days. Now at my old age, I am going to get my rigs dusted off, an antenna put up and back on the air again. Watching and reading sites like this get me going.
The HW-16 was the first ham radio rig I ever saw back in 68. My first Heathkit was a GR-64 in '68.
I have a SB-101 that was given to me that I need to get working.
75 watts, not 50. I was WN7AIU in 1975 and this was my rig.
You are correct. When I said "A red mark on the meter indicates the plate current corresponding to the 50 Watt maximum power permitted by Novice class operation" I should have said 75 Watts, which was the maximum input power limit for US Novice licenses at the time it was introduced.
Very much appreciated video...Thank You!
very interesting, thank you and 73! RA4UAS
A great video !
A product called "Bar Keepers Friend" is excellent for removing rust and rust stains. However I don't know how it would work on rust that has bled thru paint on the front panel. If you decide to try this I would choose a small rust spot and apply it with a Q-tip. This product comes in a powder and cream. Use with care as it is abrasive and contains Oxalic acid.
73 Mick WB4LSS
Technically this is NOT a transceiver, but a Transmitter-Receiver. The transmitter and receiver do not share any circuitry except for the power supply, and the audio amplifier (for the side tone). If you converted the first stage of the transmitter (crystal oscillator) into a mixer with inputs from the BFO and VFO, then you could transmit on the same frequency that the receiver was tuned to, making this a true transceiver.. (You'd probably want to pull the BFO by about 400hz on transmit to give a slight offset). Since this set was designed for the requirements of the Novice class ham license, the transmitter was crystal controlled.
Hi Jeff. Great reviews! I have an HW 16 and and SB 310. Both need work and should keep me busy :) For the HW16, Can you help me understand how current flows in the HV supply? The doubler circuit is full wave, correct? This is my guess on operation: when the top of T5 is positive, D204/5 are forward biased, and current flows through R202/3 and charges c202 (350v peak). Conversely, when T5 top is negative, D202/3 forward bias and the voltage drop developed across R203 adds to total drop measured c202 to ground, effectively doubling T5 output voltage. Thanks. B
It's been a few years since I looked at the rig. Yes, it is a voltage doubler circuit. The HW-16 manual (there are copies on line) has a Circuit Description section which covers the power supply, although not in a lot of detail.
Very nice! Many thanks!
73,
Vaughn, N2BHA
My mistake, you are correct.
I've never seen another side tone oscillator with chirp....
novice was 75 watts power limit.
it works ok but yes the side tone it not that great .. jeff .. m0prf
Quanta conversa fiada!!!