"... if you're some sort of filthy wood-elf..." The insults ! The degradation ! The sheer effrontery we of the arboreal persuasion have to endure from these greasy-handed, rust-brained orks ! Makes my lignin boil.
Im coming down from my tree house and the first vigjayo i watch, my pointy ears are a-twitching what for being insulted by some steel buffing tin scrapper!
I too am rightfully affronted at the insinuation that I might not be persuaded by the plastique and dead tree carcasses as well as metals. True, I cut my dew teeth on the dead tree carcasses and i find the aroma of them to be more pleasant, but the enginerding affliction tempts me to a wider range of materials than just the conductive types.
The angle would really help here so that there is only one point of contact with the box at any instant. The force would then be concentrated on that surface. The pressure would go up exponentially.
We have pneumatic guillotine cutters at work, they have "upside down V" shaped blades. They seem to work really nicely (we use them to cut HDPE products to length).
Yes, indeed! The angle is not so sharp though, they are slightly shallower than " |/\| " , I'd say 20 to 30 degrees from the edges to the middle point.
just brought my old bosch back to life with the purchase of some after-market batteries. shed been dead for a year but after a tear down, re-lube and the new pixies shes a chochin' again,
My cordless drill was brought back to life by adding a short cord and a lead acid battery to it. Drill is fine, just the batteries were toast, and repacking them was way too expensive, but I had a few dead UPS units around with usable batteries ( UPS itself had gone poof, but the batteries surprise surprise were good, totally unlike the regular UPS thing of the battery being a maraca or a balloon) to power it. Bonus is the battery life is really good, can get around 5 times the run time out of it, just slightly less convenient to carry around and use. Charging is a lot easier as well, just have a charger for SLA batteries made from a dead alarm control panel to do the job.
Got a pair of these drills a few months ago. Been dying for your vid on them! I love them. The impact isn't crazy powerful, but it has the cojones for most jobs on my rusty car.
I'm pretty impressed with mine and the accompanying impact driver. I have drilled a 1" hole in 3/16" steel with a hole saw and was decently impressed by how light the drill is compared to my large, full size Makita hammer drill. The sub-compacts are really light when paired with the 2.0Ah batteries. Great for overhead work to reduce fatigue. This drill will be perfect for the homeowner.
Looks like a good one for an electrician.. light and compact, and electrical work doesn't need much torque. I did some few years back and carrying a big heavy DeWalt was a pain.
After working under houses and in attics in the dark far the last few years, I've realized how important LED placement of these drills is. If it's a blonde one above the trigger, you end up covering with your digits when you try to get a good purchase on it and the rest of the time there is a shadow from the chuck on whatever you're trying to work on. It's better to have the Led down at the batteria.
I watched this several times now. Where's the part where you go into detail about the hammer part? :( Or for that matter, a guide on replacing the plastic chuck for a slightly heavier metal one? :P
Yup... " tool shop"... not good when you you completely change the look... red is still red... yellow is still yellow... Misketa is like a Chinese restaurant that got shut down for health code violations and opens right back up under a different name 🤔
I have the subcompact drill, impact set with the small batteties, I will say that it's not as solid as the bigger drills and impacts, but I have no complaints with them. The drill has no issues spinning a 4 inch hole saw through lumber, long screws and drill bits, put on a larger battery, and it's a monster. I am a carpenter and use them every day.
I have a ~10 year old Makita 1/2" impact which I'd like to donate, it's started to randomly not chooch, but giving the motor a little twist manually makes it start again, so I think one of the com bar wires are broken, I can't really be bothered taking it apart since I've done that several times already to clean out all the schmoo. Also a good example of why the overmolding needs to be anchored proper, especially while working with oils.
I keep the subcompacts for trim out when I'm finishing bathrooms. They're well suited to it. This drill does surprisingly well if you have to poke a handful of 1/4" holes in porcelain. Much more than that and it pays to get the proper hammer drill out.
Somehow, I read the video title as "Mamba BLACK", and knew it would be good. I wasn't too disappointed. I wonder if the plastic gearbox case has any benefit when the drill body is plastic, as the thermal expansion may match better. But on the other hand, there are metal screws holding that case together, and relatively little heat should transfer from the gearbox case to the drill body, so they will have different expansion anyway (and the lesser expansion of a metal case would be a better match). What would you think of a drill or saw with an all-metal gearbox that included a built-in heatsink? There's plenty of space for small fins on the flat side of the motor fan, I'm just surprised that I've not seen that yet. Otherwise, those bearings look small but 'sufficient' (and therefore insufficient). It can't be more expensive to use the more common rollerblade/skateboard bearings. As these tools all all battery powered, and most batteries contain circuits to prevent knockoffs from working, I have a quandry. Could you disect a battery, remove the cells, and hook a DC power supply in it's place? I dont mean attaching the power supply directly to the tool; instead attach it up to the inside of the battery pack, to the cell contact points. That way the power will run through the battery circuitry and the tool doesn't know any better. I have a few old DeWalt's and an all-but-dead battery that I'm considering doing this to. I tend to work in one part of my garage, and benefit of battery tools for me isn't that they are portable, it's just that I don't need to sort through a tangle of cables. So I may end up with a bunch of battery tools, no actual battery, and one easily swappable tool-side plug. And potentially a mild case of electrocution.
Chris Edwards that's kind of a cool idea having a common swappable cord for all of your tools. I would imagine that you would need a fairly expensive power supply for that though. It would have to provide both enough amperage for the tool under stall conditions, and provide clean enough power with a constant enough voltage not to wreak havoc on the battery control board that you're plugging it into.
Excellent points, and that's why I was hoping someone else might have tried it already. I have a variable benchtop power supply that can supply up to 10 amps at anywhere from 0 to 30 volts, and they can be found for about $70 from Amazon - they are absolutely priceless when working on robotics. Fixed voltage versions are cheaper and have higher amperage. But I don't know the peak amperage draw that the tool expects from the battery, and I don't know if the electronics in the power supply would prevent it from changing amperage as fast as a battery can, or from handling feedback current (and I don't want to break my power supply trying to figure that out). In a way, I'm just waiting for one of my tools or other power supplies to break in a way that lets me salvage a big enough AC->DC converter and give it a try.
Uhh, and it's actually "letter spacing" kerning is for individual characters. ie: AV AE The "v" would need less kerning to match the AE. If you're doing a whole word or block of type, it's letter spacing. And I do believe some "besigner" did that on purpose.
An interesting thing to note: Makita does not sell the subcompact line in Japan. Edit: The torque was bad because you didn't turn the clutch anywhere near past 20. The thing can do some damage to your wrist at that point, honestly
Nejati Ayvaci. I agree. Don't know why people get so caught up in brand loyalty. It's the best way to wind up with a shit tool or miss out on a great one.
That chuck seems unusually long. Maybe some engineer has changed those internal jaws to make it grip a variety of sizes better. Usually once those internal jaws get ground so much small bits don't fit well, if at all. I get the sense that is not the case with this one.
I’ve been watching your boltr videos about cordless drills with great interest but I’ve got an idea that has been stuck in my mind for a while now. With the old ni-cad battery drills the wiring was dead simple, positive, negative and done, so I converted 2 different drills to be able to hook up to my truck battery for extended use. Then I got a newer lithium battery 12v impact driver which I was hoping to do the same with but the extra wiring and brain box stopped me. Would it be possible to do the same thing or would the higher voltage when it’s running fry it? I do a lot of work in farmers yards and other odd places which is why I am thinking of this in the first place.
BRUSH L E S S It's so that the word splits evenly to each half of the shell. Otherwise the H would be on the seam. Probably cost them an extra 10c to change the shell design, right?
Agreed. I've worked at printing companies and you'd be surprised at how crappy an appearance some customers will settle for just to save a few pennies.
I got this set, I work on shows, I love them. I was actually curious about the impact setting, they seem to have settings so you don't snap screw heads off etc... For my line of work they are great, the size fits better in a Pelican case we take with us and you still get the 18v.
Hey AvE I love all of your vids and follow you for over a year now. Your unboxing contraption is awesome :D The main cutting power of the guillotine does not come from the fall of the blade, but the angling of it. If you check out pics of the real deal, you will see, that all blades are in a 45 degree angle to the ground, thus they can cut clean and fast. Maybe you can replace or remake the blade someday in the future. Then it won't struggle with the next Makita box. Greetings from Bulgaria!
I have one of those, and it works great for wood, and makes a better bit driver than my bit drivers because I can turn slow. Like you say, not for drilling holes in the Winch mount, but it’s great for installing wood fence. I have two slightly stronger versions of this too. Very easy to hang one with a pilot bit, and one with the driver for whatever screw, from your belt and climb a ladder.
I have the same exact hammer drill n it's awesome, feels good. It's the sun compact so it's not supposed to be the most powerful or strong. I got the impact driver n circ saw with it also. Great little tools
Oh yeah, that's the good stuff. Tool reviews always make my day. I'd been saving up to get a new cordless drill after my 14.4 finally shit the bed. This one didn't seem to bad.
The guys in our panel shop really like these small drills. We have been using Bosch with good results for drill holes in sheet metal and self tapping screws.
Yeah, for small work these are pretty nice - for me in the cordless department it's all about chooch per weight factor. I can always get a bigger drill if there is a need but I'll choose lightest tool that will do the job if I have to drill bazillion holes. And I'm old enough to be still amazed by the fact that nowadays you can drill a hole in metal with a baby drill like that connected to something of a size of few 4.5V torch batteries :)
Absolutely loved the box opening intro-and the rest of the review! "Vive le Qeubec Libre" was a fantastic touch. Thanks for your reviews though, they're a great watch/listen!
I wish you'd test it on masonry though. I have the non-vibrator version and I use it for everything other than steel and walls. Was wondering how good it is.
kerning is off but if they distributed it properly a letter would sit right across the seam. best option would be to...not have the lettering at all probably
You mentioned temperature - metal vs plastic. Might you use your fancy temperature sensor to compare the cooldown/heat dissipation - especially with this carbon fiber impregnated stuff?
I suppose them differentiating with colour is a good thing, I've let the smoke out of a few less well made combidrills both yellow & teal, I wouldn't even bother try drill a 50mm holesaw thru a inch thick access floor tile with a blackita or green borch.
I got the first release of the all black MaH-KitaH and it seems to have a lot of power, worked for all my small projects, never drilled larger than one half the imperial standard unit.
The bottom half will break off for sure. Had one of the black and white ones and it snapped right off. Once it drops from having a heavy battery in it it's gone.
I told you, you needed to ANGLE the blade, but you didn't want to listen and then your minions wanted to talk shot. Angle the farken blade, so it SLICES. I told you it would end up acting like a blunt object and it did. Sheesh!
The angle o' the dangle is all dickered, ya gotta put a steeper hangulation on the cuttin edge what fer more slicin an dicin through dead tree carcasses
Coming back around watching all the vids over again. Did you ever fix the angle of the dangle so that thing slices as it drops down like the real thing with a 45 degree slant blade.
I used this drill for almost two years doing low voltage, cameras, and security alarms, diy. This is a perfect drill for me to use on drywall, wood, sheet metal and frames, concrete. I try to carry everything i need for the job in 1 large milwaukee tote bag, and this is perfect. I attach 2 amp battery on drill to keep the drill in my hands light and have a spare 2amp battery back up. I rather carry a lighter compact drill since im constantly on the move and carrying my 1 heavy ass bag. Drywall, setting it to drive #1, the drill prevents drywall screws from over tightening. I barely get drywall screws spinning in the drywall. Wood. drill constantly stops when i use spade bits to due insufficient torque. i tend to push the drill less when using spadebit. Takes longer to drill 1 inch holes using spade compared to my coworkers dewalt 20v max but still gets job done. I use auger bits now and makes a huge difference when drilling large holes. More expensive though. Metal. havent had any issues so far drilling through metal doors, sheet metal, frames, locks. Concrete. I mostly use it for making wall anchors. From time to time i need to drill 1/2 in diameter for bundle of cat6 or conduit. Normally i would use my hilti avr for >1/2inch concrete, but i have used makita when i didnt have my hilti or i parked really far to get my avr. Again, struggles but got the job done. Killed my whole battery drilling 1/2x8inches on a 2 amp battery.
The reason for the spacing in the font is because brushless has an odd number of letters and they didn't want to cut the H in half. The clamshell goes through the middle of the word.
Is the blade is fixed to the ram with a magnet. If so some of the blades velocity will be lost as the magnet breaks free. A solenoid release mechanism might work better
kfh13 lol... I spent hours deleting every post, removing every like, removing and scrubbing everything possible from there. All they have on record is an old email and my name. Took me serious work... Wasn't easy.
Unfortunately it's still there, just not visible to you or the public. I haven't registered an account, but they'll still have a file on me thanks to that 'pixel' or whatever tech they have that tracks you on every site you visit that has it installed, plus every time you're in a photo someone else uploads. There's 'shadow profiles' all over the place.
TheOneWhoMightBe x2. My name showed up on Facebook with my high school year book photo, as that was the last publicly available photo I was identified with. And I never had a facebook. Now I made one, my picture is of two crashed model airplanes. Shows up in LinkedIn and even a few "background check" photos, which I think is hilarious.
Black is kinda the firearm color, I bet when holding this in the dark you could make some people think it's an Uzi or mp7. I don't think black's a wise decision.
Imagine the what that looks like on under poor light on the back seat. I have this Sub compact set. By far is my "go-to" before lugging around my heavy Milwaukee stuff.
Dear Ave, would you show the output of the computer reacting on load/torque? Maybe the computer will make the output pulses bigger to get the rpm back on track. If it has a feedback loop, pwm should adapt... Or am i wrong?
I love myself some thetf detterent teal/uglygreen, easy to see and I'm a bit of a contrarian myself. Sad to see makita going the way of willfuckyee though...
Do they sell the "mt" series makita over there? Here in Aus they re-badged the maktec and they're all black /grey , selling them as a cheaper option to the usual teal makita range
-do you think your husband suspects anything about our relationship
-i do not think so . he is busy all day building a guillotine
LOL!
is this a reference to mad henry or just standalone
“D-did you say a guillotine? We can’t see each-other anymore, I’m moving to Mexico.”
hellshade2 XD RoFL !!1!!11 + ! !
A guillotine?........gulp.
"... if you're some sort of filthy wood-elf..."
The insults ! The degradation ! The sheer effrontery we of the arboreal persuasion have to endure from these greasy-handed, rust-brained orks ! Makes my lignin boil.
Im coming down from my tree house and the first vigjayo i watch, my pointy ears are a-twitching what for being insulted by some steel buffing tin scrapper!
Guessing that surrey comment was also aimed in your general direction..
I too am rightfully affronted at the insinuation that I might not be persuaded by the plastique and dead tree carcasses as well as metals. True, I cut my dew teeth on the dead tree carcasses and i find the aroma of them to be more pleasant, but the enginerding affliction tempts me to a wider range of materials than just the conductive types.
Filthy outlanders. The Nerevarine will throw all of you out of Resdayn.
You just like the wood that ends up in your orifice
"if it ain't broke, fix it till it is"
xD I love that so much
Azivegu My newest favorite quote.
i like Red Green's version better: "if it ain't broke, you're not trying".
You could try angling the blade! Guillotines were made that way so they would slice instead of just smashing.
The angle would really help here so that there is only one point of contact with the box at any instant. The force would then be concentrated on that surface. The pressure would go up exponentially.
We have pneumatic guillotine cutters at work, they have "upside down V" shaped blades. They seem to work really nicely (we use them to cut HDPE products to length).
An upside down ' V '? like so " |/\| " ?
Yes, indeed! The angle is not so sharp though, they are slightly shallower than " |/\| " , I'd say 20 to 30 degrees from the edges to the middle point.
That's News to me! I wonder what happened for them to figure THAT out XD
not gonna lie I miss the mini saw... :/
Me too.
Time for half mast.
AvE are you working on a mini Franken saw?
Mini saw deserves new chooch. A 2.5cc Diesel going full 'banshee' mode could be entertaining.
What happened to the mini Bosch saw??
"Chuck feels nice and smooth" 16:36 Who's Chuck ?
just brought my old bosch back to life with the purchase of some after-market batteries. shed been dead for a year but after a tear down, re-lube and the new pixies shes a chochin' again,
Pgcmoore got your self a rejuvenated cooter if I ever seen one
My cordless drill was brought back to life by adding a short cord and a lead acid battery to it. Drill is fine, just the batteries were toast, and repacking them was way too expensive, but I had a few dead UPS units around with usable batteries ( UPS itself had gone poof, but the batteries surprise surprise were good, totally unlike the regular UPS thing of the battery being a maraca or a balloon) to power it. Bonus is the battery life is really good, can get around 5 times the run time out of it, just slightly less convenient to carry around and use. Charging is a lot easier as well, just have a charger for SLA batteries made from a dead alarm control panel to do the job.
yer clamshell is clinchin yer cooter
And so AvE learned why the Guillotine was not a flat edge.
Hate to have been the first guy to find that out. Just sayin’….
It's not bad kerning, it's sponsorship from the ADA: BRUSH L E S S !
Lol I think it's just emphasis on the "L E S S"
The "vive le quebec libre" sign on the guillotine is absolutely amazing.
Got a pair of these drills a few months ago. Been dying for your vid on them! I love them. The impact isn't crazy powerful, but it has the cojones for most jobs on my rusty car.
I've got it's brother without the hammering thingy and with the hex chuck. Lovely little sucker, comes in handy in all sorts of small places.
StarSpangled Yeah, the thing has been indispensable for me.
I'm pretty impressed with mine and the accompanying impact driver. I have drilled a 1" hole in 3/16" steel with a hole saw and was decently impressed by how light the drill is compared to my large, full size Makita hammer drill. The sub-compacts are really light when paired with the 2.0Ah batteries. Great for overhead work to reduce fatigue. This drill will be perfect for the homeowner.
He actually said elastomer. Amazing progress was made today.
I think the black looks cheap. I loved the old teal color, it meant quality.
You can get the same drill in teal. The black ones are just a special edition.
I have a full 18 v in black. Not a subcompact you can get them in all sorts of colours
yea ok the red and brown ones are the ones that get released in Japan. I’d be willing to bet they are better quality.
Looks like a good one for an electrician.. light and compact, and electrical work doesn't need much torque. I did some few years back and carrying a big heavy DeWalt was a pain.
Meh,, electricians dont need tourqe. Any old drill will cut a 4 or 5 inch hole in switch gear or Nema enclosures
Ye olde guillotine needs more angle on the dangle to cut more better
By us, you mean the French?
After working under houses and in attics in the dark far the last few years, I've realized how important LED placement of these drills is. If it's a blonde one above the trigger, you end up covering with your digits when you try to get a good purchase on it and the rest of the time there is a shadow from the chuck on whatever you're trying to work on. It's better to have the Led down at the batteria.
you know the black line of makitas are all sub-compact, they are meant to be light duty
Same with red
my nine fingers cringed as you cleared "la guillotine" - wow! awesome video as always!
Yes, as they say: don't use your last remaining finger to clear the 'machine'.
Cheers, Mark
*******************************
my clacker was pulsing
Nine fingers? I only have eight. And two thumbs.
The teal was so good though... A lot more subtle then deefalt yellow or fire engine China red
Metabo’s green or Blue Bosch’s blue are quite nice too imo
@@claudyfocan731 I feel you, that teal tho
I quite like the teal.
Absolute swine to pluck . . .
I like teal a lot better than yellow lemme tell ya
What was the 3D printed part supposed to be for?
That feeling when you pull something A-part and shit goes everywhere... story of my life...
Do a BOLTR of the Bosch mini Angle Grinder GWS 12V-76
would be perfect for opening boxes
I watched this several times now. Where's the part where you go into detail about the hammer part? :( Or for that matter, a guide on replacing the plastic chuck for a slightly heavier metal one? :P
Might be a good drill for a cake maker to drill candle holes
The black makes it look like a store brand
Yup... " tool shop"... not good when you you completely change the look... red is still red... yellow is still yellow... Misketa is like a Chinese restaurant that got shut down for health code violations and opens right back up under a different name 🤔
The Walmart bleak and Dexter is stiffer for fulck sake.
shane jasek
Yup
I have the subcompact drill, impact set with the small batteties, I will say that it's not as solid as the bigger drills and impacts, but I have no complaints with them. The drill has no issues spinning a 4 inch hole saw through lumber, long screws and drill bits, put on a larger battery, and it's a monster.
I am a carpenter and use them every day.
I have a ~10 year old Makita 1/2" impact which I'd like to donate, it's started to randomly not chooch, but giving the motor a little twist manually makes it start again, so I think one of the com bar wires are broken, I can't really be bothered taking it apart since I've done that several times already to clean out all the schmoo.
Also a good example of why the overmolding needs to be anchored proper, especially while working with oils.
I keep the subcompacts for trim out when I'm finishing bathrooms. They're well suited to it. This drill does surprisingly well if you have to poke a handful of 1/4" holes in porcelain. Much more than that and it pays to get the proper hammer drill out.
Haha, the ‘neo-didlyum’ never gets old, always makes me laugh 😂
Somehow, I read the video title as "Mamba BLACK", and knew it would be good. I wasn't too disappointed.
I wonder if the plastic gearbox case has any benefit when the drill body is plastic, as the thermal expansion may match better. But on the other hand, there are metal screws holding that case together, and relatively little heat should transfer from the gearbox case to the drill body, so they will have different expansion anyway (and the lesser expansion of a metal case would be a better match).
What would you think of a drill or saw with an all-metal gearbox that included a built-in heatsink? There's plenty of space for small fins on the flat side of the motor fan, I'm just surprised that I've not seen that yet. Otherwise, those bearings look small but 'sufficient' (and therefore insufficient). It can't be more expensive to use the more common rollerblade/skateboard bearings.
As these tools all all battery powered, and most batteries contain circuits to prevent knockoffs from working, I have a quandry. Could you disect a battery, remove the cells, and hook a DC power supply in it's place? I dont mean attaching the power supply directly to the tool; instead attach it up to the inside of the battery pack, to the cell contact points. That way the power will run through the battery circuitry and the tool doesn't know any better. I have a few old DeWalt's and an all-but-dead battery that I'm considering doing this to. I tend to work in one part of my garage, and benefit of battery tools for me isn't that they are portable, it's just that I don't need to sort through a tangle of cables. So I may end up with a bunch of battery tools, no actual battery, and one easily swappable tool-side plug. And potentially a mild case of electrocution.
Chris Edwards that's kind of a cool idea having a common swappable cord for all of your tools. I would imagine that you would need a fairly expensive power supply for that though. It would have to provide both enough amperage for the tool under stall conditions, and provide clean enough power with a constant enough voltage not to wreak havoc on the battery control board that you're plugging it into.
Excellent points, and that's why I was hoping someone else might have tried it already. I have a variable benchtop power supply that can supply up to 10 amps at anywhere from 0 to 30 volts, and they can be found for about $70 from Amazon - they are absolutely priceless when working on robotics. Fixed voltage versions are cheaper and have higher amperage. But I don't know the peak amperage draw that the tool expects from the battery, and I don't know if the electronics in the power supply would prevent it from changing amperage as fast as a battery can, or from handling feedback current (and I don't want to break my power supply trying to figure that out).
In a way, I'm just waiting for one of my tools or other power supplies to break in a way that lets me salvage a big enough AC->DC converter and give it a try.
The cells drill battery's use are good for 20-30 amps, and I imagine they use at least most of that.
This is getting good . . .
Why not replace the bad cells?
I think the kerning on Brushless is actually on purpose... BRUSH L E S S to enhance the less side of things.
Uhh, and it's actually "letter spacing" kerning is for individual characters. ie: AV AE The "v" would need less kerning to match the AE. If you're doing a whole word or block of type, it's letter spacing. And I do believe some "besigner" did that on purpose.
It's amazing, the quality keeps decreasing while the price keeps slowly increasing.
An interesting thing to note: Makita does not sell the subcompact line in Japan.
Edit: The torque was bad because you didn't turn the clutch anywhere near past 20. The thing can do some damage to your wrist at that point, honestly
I have one of them and they do stop before they hurt your wrist. I suspect it is based on ESC current draw and not a gyro based sensor.
orijimi in drill mode it does not matter what number setting the clutch is in because that is only used while in drive mode.
LoneSpartan Ah, I have the hammer-less version. Don't know why this one's so much weaker than mine.
orijimi no crap, mine will snap a wrist without a hint of stall!
So, Free Time. You didn't say if yours is like Orijimi's. The hammer-less version. Do tell. Don't hold back on us.
Loving the more frequent uploads dude :) hope you and the little ones are good :)
I'll take a Makita over a DeFault or a Willfaukme anyday.
MrKydaman honestly each brands have their best tools so I would not choose only 1 brand
Nejati Ayvaci. I agree. Don't know why people get so caught up in brand loyalty. It's the best way to wind up with a shit tool or miss out on a great one.
That's been my motto for a while, but the most recent replacements have me wondering. Broke early, still in for repairs.
Milwaukee is killing it. And their warranty service is top notch
MrKydaman there's one born everyday. .... They're banking on it....
The printing was fine. it's not a description of the drill's technology, it was just telling you to brush LESS
That chuck seems unusually long. Maybe some engineer has changed those internal jaws to make it grip a variety of sizes better. Usually once those internal jaws get ground so much small bits don't fit well, if at all. I get the sense that is not the case with this one.
it might be black but atleast it has a TEAL BOX
"If it ain't broken, fix it till it is!" I'd buy that shirt.
You actually got it back together in running order, I'm shocked! Thanks for the video.
"ZUCKERBERG.... CRANBERRY. FARMING. SUCTION. HOSE." xD
I’ve been watching your boltr videos about cordless drills with great interest but I’ve got an idea that has been stuck in my mind for a while now. With the old ni-cad battery drills the wiring was dead simple, positive, negative and done, so I converted 2 different drills to be able to hook up to my truck battery for extended use. Then I got a newer lithium battery 12v impact driver which I was hoping to do the same with but the extra wiring and brain box stopped me. Would it be possible to do the same thing or would the higher voltage when it’s running fry it? I do a lot of work in farmers yards and other odd places which is why I am thinking of this in the first place.
Kerning/font - makes it look like a knockoff
BRUSH L E S S
It's so that the word splits evenly to each half of the shell. Otherwise the H would be on the seam. Probably cost them an extra 10c to change the shell design, right?
Capta Praelium wouldn't cost anything more if they designed it right in the first place.
Designing it right in the first place costs more because good designers charge more.
I think it was on purpose to fit inbetwix the seamers and accentuate the "less" part of the no-brush. "Brushless is so hot right now"...
Agreed. I've worked at printing companies and you'd be surprised at how crappy an appearance some customers will settle for just to save a few pennies.
I got this set, I work on shows, I love them. I was actually curious about the impact setting, they seem to have settings so you don't snap screw heads off etc... For my line of work they are great, the size fits better in a Pelican case we take with us and you still get the 18v.
I BET NOBODY HAS ALREADY MENTIONED IT SO I'LL GO AHEAD AND SAY YOU MIGHT WANT TO ADD AN ANGLE TO THE BLADE!
Damien Darcell bevel
Why are you yelling?
What brand/model is this drill at 1:45?
Red one.
No ad for hose and fittings but I got coupon for 50% off my next order of frog snacks
Hey AvE
I love all of your vids and follow you for over a year now.
Your unboxing contraption is awesome :D
The main cutting power of the guillotine does not come from the fall of the blade, but the angling of it.
If you check out pics of the real deal, you will see, that all blades are in a 45 degree angle to the ground, thus they can cut clean and fast.
Maybe you can replace or remake the blade someday in the future.
Then it won't struggle with the next Makita box.
Greetings from Bulgaria!
Weren't you going to test the vibro-hammer action?
I have one of those, and it works great for wood, and makes a better bit driver than my bit drivers because I can turn slow. Like you say, not for drilling holes in the Winch mount, but it’s great for installing wood fence.
I have two slightly stronger versions of this too. Very easy to hang one with a pilot bit, and one with the driver for whatever screw, from your belt and climb a ladder.
another AvE quote "Filthy wood elf" - love it so much I'm gunna burn it in a slab of oak and hang it above my table saw. ;)
Thanks AvE
I have the same exact hammer drill n it's awesome, feels good. It's the sun compact so it's not supposed to be the most powerful or strong. I got the impact driver n circ saw with it also. Great little tools
I feel like we got shorted some fiddle-farting and some Canadian slang while you put it back together!!
he didn't even show us the ball bearing clutch setup
it would have been painful to watch but would have hurt so good...
"If it ain't broke fix it till it is" -AVE 2018
One of today's best thinkers
Yes, you actually said Aluminium the correct way.
Well done buddy, England is very proud of you. 😁👍🍻
Oh yeah, that's the good stuff. Tool reviews always make my day. I'd been saving up to get a new cordless drill after my 14.4 finally shit the bed. This one didn't seem to bad.
The guys in our panel shop really like these small drills. We have been using Bosch with good results for drill holes in sheet metal and self tapping screws.
Yeah, for small work these are pretty nice - for me in the cordless department it's all about chooch per weight factor. I can always get a bigger drill if there is a need but I'll choose lightest tool that will do the job if I have to drill bazillion holes. And I'm old enough to be still amazed by the fact that nowadays you can drill a hole in metal with a baby drill like that connected to something of a size of few 4.5V torch batteries :)
offshorebear I liked Bosch but if I had the money , I'd go with hilti
Absolutely loved the box opening intro-and the rest of the review! "Vive le Qeubec Libre" was a fantastic touch. Thanks for your reviews though, they're a great watch/listen!
Best unboxing since you dun friggered that other thing with the tappy tap tap
I wish you'd test it on masonry though. I have the non-vibrator version and I use it for everything other than steel and walls. Was wondering how good it is.
kerning is off but if they distributed it properly a letter would sit right across the seam. best option would be to...not have the lettering at all probably
Best option would be to add a ! to make it lengthened so it could straddle the crack better...
@Drunken Bogan it's a compression cut router bit. The bottom end cuts upwards and the top end cuts downwards.
AVE!!!!!!!!!!!! your blade needs to have an angle, then instead of just puncture you will actually will have some slicing motion into it.
That Russian it's the angle of the dangle :D
This guy is right.
Mustn’t be Russian , must be French.
Russians behead people with their fists.
It's not really puncturing, it's more like you're whacking the item to be severed with a slightly sharpened club.
You mentioned temperature - metal vs plastic. Might you use your fancy temperature sensor to compare the cooldown/heat dissipation - especially with this carbon fiber impregnated stuff?
I believe the black/black & white stuff is the home gamer stuff.
nick klaus certainly looks that way, plastic chuck, yuk :(
I suppose them differentiating with colour is a good thing, I've let the smoke out of a few less well made combidrills both yellow & teal, I wouldn't even bother try drill a 50mm holesaw thru a inch thick access floor tile with a blackita or green borch.
nick klaus i believe your right!
I got the first release of the all black MaH-KitaH and it seems to have a lot of power, worked for all my small projects, never drilled larger than one half the imperial standard unit.
These vibrating/hammer drills are so cute. Gimme my Hilti
The bottom half will break off for sure. Had one of the black and white ones and it snapped right off. Once it drops from having a heavy battery in it it's gone.
I told you, you needed to ANGLE the blade, but you didn't want to listen and then your minions wanted to talk shot.
Angle the farken blade, so it SLICES. I told you it would end up acting like a blunt object and it did.
Sheesh!
Aahhh the ingenious ways to open boxes never ceases to an amazing effect
The problem is you got a straight blade on that. You need a bit of a taper on that blade.
Someone translate this to his language for me?
The thing is right fucked bud you gotta give her a big ol slant to the blade there wa, otherwise you ain't cuttin.
The angle o' the dangle is all dickered, ya gotta put a steeper hangulation on the cuttin edge what fer more slicin an dicin through dead tree carcasses
Some of us wood-elves also enjoy your videos. (The head of the stick, what you keep on the ice, is made of... ? )
For a second I thought the video had switched to the Level1 Techs channel.
LOL I actually paused it to check
It really threw me through a loop, thought I accidentally opened Level 1 news in a different tab.
Same. The extended version was confusing to hear
Coming back around watching all the vids over again. Did you ever fix the angle of the dangle so that thing slices as it drops down like the real thing with a 45 degree slant blade.
AvE and TOT at least they gave me a 10 minute break
What's TOT?
Parker Brown This Old Tony
Thank you sir
@@Breakfast_and_Bullets check out clickspring and abom too
@@danhammond8406 yes, I am quite familiar with them these days
I used this drill for almost two years doing low voltage, cameras, and security alarms, diy. This is a perfect drill for me to use on drywall, wood, sheet metal and frames, concrete.
I try to carry everything i need for the job in 1 large milwaukee tote bag, and this is perfect. I attach 2 amp battery on drill to keep the drill in my hands light and have a spare 2amp battery back up.
I rather carry a lighter compact drill since im constantly on the move and carrying my 1 heavy ass bag.
Drywall, setting it to drive #1, the drill prevents drywall screws from over tightening. I barely get drywall screws spinning in the drywall.
Wood. drill constantly stops when i use spade bits to due insufficient torque. i tend to push the drill less when using spadebit. Takes longer to drill 1 inch holes using spade compared to my coworkers dewalt 20v max but still gets job done. I use auger bits now and makes a huge difference when drilling large holes. More expensive though.
Metal. havent had any issues so far drilling through metal doors, sheet metal, frames, locks.
Concrete. I mostly use it for making wall anchors. From time to time i need to drill 1/2 in diameter for bundle of cat6 or conduit. Normally i would use my hilti avr for >1/2inch concrete, but i have used makita when i didnt have my hilti or i parked really far to get my avr. Again, struggles but got the job done. Killed my whole battery drilling 1/2x8inches on a 2 amp battery.
I really don't mind the color of my tools. The way it does the job counts.
NoiseBomb
I have to agree, my favorite tool is pink!
Let's hope it doesn't let the smoke out :D
@@leveljoe is it 100% silicone?
Omron actually produce some of their kit in the UK. Mahosive place near Swindon I believe.
I thought "black" ones were supposed to be bigger! 🤦♀️ LOL. 😂😂😂
Anthony Witham lol!
That's what she said 😂😂
15:16-15:43, best RUclips I have seen in a long time!!!!
Old school video! Love it!
The reason for the spacing in the font is because brushless has an odd number of letters and they didn't want to cut the H in half. The clamshell goes through the middle of the word.
A "fein" job on Makita?
Is the blade is fixed to the ram with a magnet. If so some of the blades velocity will be lost as the magnet breaks free. A solenoid release mechanism might work better
Ha! Can't get me that easily AvE! I deleted my Facebook two years ago!
Helena Of Detroit you think you deleted it.
kfh13 lol... I spent hours deleting every post, removing every like, removing and scrubbing everything possible from there. All they have on record is an old email and my name. Took me serious work... Wasn't easy.
Unfortunately it's still there, just not visible to you or the public.
I haven't registered an account, but they'll still have a file on me thanks to that 'pixel' or whatever tech they have that tracks you on every site you visit that has it installed, plus every time you're in a photo someone else uploads. There's 'shadow profiles' all over the place.
TheOneWhoMightBe x2.
My name showed up on Facebook with my high school year book photo, as that was the last publicly available photo I was identified with. And I never had a facebook.
Now I made one, my picture is of two crashed model airplanes. Shows up in LinkedIn and even a few "background check" photos, which I think is hilarious.
lilsammywasapunkrock I never graduated high school. I was home schooled and got a GED
I wonder if the chuck jaws are ground off that way intentionally to hone them in after assembly and offset slop in the chuck.
Black is kinda the firearm color, I bet when holding this in the dark you could make some people think it's an Uzi or mp7.
I don't think black's a wise decision.
Imagine the what that looks like on under poor light on the back seat. I have this Sub compact set. By far is my "go-to" before lugging around my heavy Milwaukee stuff.
Dear Ave, would you show the output of the computer reacting on load/torque? Maybe the computer will make the output pulses bigger to get the rpm back on track. If it has a feedback loop, pwm should adapt... Or am i wrong?
Le moment où 80% des commentaires sont seulement à propos de comment ouvrir une boîte en carton :v
Is it real French? I have mixed feelings because I can understand it :D
yes
Even if 80% of the comments are people suggesting a better way to open the box.
Your commentary is hilarious! Thanks for disassembling this drill. I had one for a day and returned it, too low torque for me.
"Filthy wood elf" love you too
I heard that the black line is an anniversary design. Got one in all black and one in black and white with the hammer function and so on.
Be careful with your new package opener so your kids don't open their hands off.
wacio needs a lock
Is there a review of the fein drill on the way?
I love myself some thetf detterent teal/uglygreen, easy to see and I'm a bit of a contrarian myself. Sad to see makita going the way of willfuckyee though...
Milfuckee is still regining the king. /shrug
Do they sell the "mt" series makita over there? Here in Aus they re-badged the maktec and they're all black /grey , selling them as a cheaper option to the usual teal makita range
Why is your guillotine blade square not trapezoid? Make it trapezoid!