I have modified my technique a bit. When marking my plumb lines, I just mark the front and follow that line. I do make marks on the back side, but not the plumb line. I found out they were seldom in line with each other. I also tend to push the saw straight through rather than push the far end all the way down, then cut the front. Just follow the front line down. It gets it pretty close.
Yup, that is Madrone, my most favorite wood. The bowl I show came off the lathe at 22 inches round, and stopped moving at 27 by 18 inches. That is part of why I like it so much.
That pun, "I should really get a lazy susan for this, but haven't gotten around to it." Haha, classic. Also I love those bowls. This is very informative. I just started to turn and haven't gotten any supply of unprepped wood.
I recently saw one on You Tube where some guy, maybe German, was cutting/slabbing up an oak log to make a table out of. He set up one of the laser level/plumb things, and liked the chainsaw bar up on the laser lines, which covered vertical. Really efficient idea.
I continue to get comments about safety here, and got a number of them on the woodturning forums when I posted the clips there. Comments ranged from 'this needs to be removed' to 'I am out in my drive way in shorts and flip flops'. For sure if I was out in the woods falling trees, and in situations other than the flat of my driveway, I would have more safety gear. The only hazard there is the operator, not the environment. Some people should have a bomb disposal suit on, others can get by with flip flops.
Heck you're using a Swedish chainsaw - why shouldn't you wear Swedish logging sandals* as well? : ). Seriously, in Sweden these are considered industrial work shoes and come with steel toes hidden under the leather. I can't remember if you mentioned this in your video - using a ripping chain with a 10 degree fleam makes all the difference while ripping (Ain't too bad for crosscutting either especially when the wood is frozen) * www.byggmax.se/verktyg/arbetskläder/arbetsskor/träskor-comfort-sika-footwear-p7010124
Exactly Robohippy...Way too many people are so full of shit and spend their time looking for fault rather than soak up the knowledge you are so freely imparting. My advice...dont even respond. If you want to use your chainsaw naked in the woods where people get eaten by grizzly on a daily basis, well thats up to you. These "keyboard" warriors really piss me off. I am from Australia and sorry, but i call it as I see it. Keep up the great work
That line on top of each cutting tooth does show you the proper angle to hold your file, but it also tells you when to stop sharpening and throw the chain away.
Thank you for the video. I especially like the cut through 90% first so the blank balance is better for the duration of chainsawing and how you look at the log/cracks/pith to make cuts that will maximize the yield.
A good video, thanks I think everybody is responsible for their own safety and have to do a personal risk assessment. 50 years ago we used very little safety gear and used machines which would not be allowed today but hey we are still here and complete. Accidents still happen today
Nice video. I learned a few things that will help cut blanks. Excellent comment about the top quarter of the bar tip causing kick backs. I also like your comments on cutting trees down. I would like to add how important personal protective equipment is. It was good to see you wearing hearing protection. I do recommend wearing pants,but preferably chaps when using a chainsaw. Also, a face shield is a nice safety device - the screen type works well. My family has been in logging since the early '40s and I have cut as a profession for a few years.
There are two types of grinds on chainsaw blades. And a several different teeth setups. For beginners and ocassional operators, get a low kickback full chain. Skip and semi skip are more aggressive blades and the chance of kickback is much greater. With respect to the grinds, the first and most common is a crosscut blade. This is used for felling and bucking (cutting up for firewood or logs for milling). The second is a rip blade, it has a more square angle on the teeth (5 to 10 degrees, instead of 25 to 30 degrees on a crosscut blade). It will section the blanks quicker and easier. I keep a saw setup for crosscut and one for ripping. I live in an area that services a lot of loggers. They tend to push skip chains at the chainsaw shops, less teeth to sharpen, more aggressive cut and a little cheaper. Again if your new, or only use a saw a couple of times a month, insist on a full tooth blade.
Well, I started using chainsaws for concrete construction before they had all those light weight generators. When I bought one for my wood shop, I talked to the guys at a chain saw store, not the big box store, and after me telling them what I was doing, they suggested the rip chain. I have never tried the other style without the skip tooth. I did hear of a 'chisel' grind where the round file was not used. Probably another level that I probably will not experiment with. Not doing as much turning as I used to...
Sawing up some Eucalyptus tree tree trunks today for firewood and looking for interesting grain colour/patterns etc. The trunks range in size 12’’ to 26’’diameter , so a good size range. The trunks have drying out the past 6-months over our summer and it is time to cut them into 22’’ lengths. Having watched your video just now has given me some very useful tips. How are your neighbours?? We are semi-rural on a native bush 5-acres, so we don’t have neighbours to get upset about frequent chainsaw use, it goes with living surrounded by big eucalyptus and other hardwood species. Happy turning. Greetings from Tasmania Australia, 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
No problems with the neighbors ever. I do make sure to do my chainsaw work late morning or mid day. Never at the crack of dawn.... Even if I am up that early.
I really enjoyed your video. I'm newer to turning and am starting to harvest my own wood. This was a great video covering everything from sharpening the blade to insight into your thought process for making the bowl blanks. I've seen the other comments and anyone who is new and wore flip flops is a moron. Clearly, you've been doing this for a long time and have a different comfort level then a newbie. Speaking as a newbie, we watch many videos for safety protocol and then videos like your for concept and insight. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
I hope you still get this comment, despite the age of this remarkably instructive video. Above all, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!!!! Please receive that countless times from the depths of my heart. That clearly and necessarily said, I also thank you for your very practical and pragmatic instruction, given without egotistical pretense, even though your level of experience and art is obviously deserving of respect. One question: What is the minimum bar length you would consider in gas or electric chain saws? Clearly the diameter/radius of the pieces planned has some impact. As a woman, I do not have the upper body strength of a man, although my grit makes every effort to intelligently compete. Would I be better or worse with the increased weight and torque of a longer bar? Thank you.
Thank you! Umm, not sure exactly what to tell you on size. I have a 24 inch bar on that saw, which will cut all the way through most of what I get my hands on for making bowls. Personally, I think it takes more muscle to move the logs around than it does to cut them up, though brute strength helps. With an 18 inch bar, you can cut through 24 inch logs, but you have to cut from 2 sides to get all the way through. I am not sure about electric chainsaw bar sizes. I have a Husky that I used for some years, and I think it is a 16 inch bar. Most discussions I see on the forums say the Sthil electric is far better than any of the others out there, but I have no experience with it. If you are part of a club, then most of them have wood gathering and processing sessions, which might help when brute strength is needed. I do always carry some plastic wedges, a small sledge hammer, and prefer to get the log up on some 2 by 4s before cutting. With a steady eye, and a sharp chain, the actual cutting doesn't take a lot of work. You do need to learn to sharpen your own chains, unless you seldom cut blanks. The saw shops do charge a fair sum, and they tend to remove more metal than a hand file. This is another art to learn. So, I guess there are a lot of 'it depends' things here. I seldom turn anything over about 14 inch diameter, but frequently get logs in the 24 to 30 inch diameter range.... Hope this helps.
Hi Reed, As a relatively new wood turner, I have had the good fortune of being given two large trunks of a 110 year old black walnut tree, with diameter of at lease 4 feet, with a length of over 31/2 feet! There are no obvious cracks, the pith is centrally located, and my mission is to figure out how to get the most viable pieces out of the remaining trunk. I would welcome any suggestions that you might have for me. Thanks,Fred Chase
Ring Shake is a crack that runs with an annual ring in a log. It usually only runs 1/2 - 2/3 fo the way around the annual ring. That's different from wind shake which is what you pointed out.
+Nancy Hirt This could be a tomato/tomahto type thing. Can't count the different names for the same things... As near as I can tell, ring shake comes from a sick tree, and wind shake comes from wind stress, and given some time, the wind shake will start to look like a sick tree rather than just a stress crack.
Our local turning club devoted a whole meeting to chain saw safety ... went to a city park for demonstrations by chain saw safety experts. Then in a subsequent meeting, we built 'Log Processing Centers' (sawbucks) based on the design from the Minnesota Woodturners ( www.mnwoodturners.com/index.php/mwa-club1/how-to-articles/31-mwa-log-processing-center-kit ). These sawbucks are a great way to hold the log.
Nice, thanks for sharing. I might add sacrificial facing pieces on top of the V pieces - if you don't trim the blank just in the middle then you don't want to cut the V pieces. Nice idea to use the strap. I wonder if the V pieces could be made out of plywood. It could be a good way to use scrap plywood.
Dust isn't a problem because I cut wet wood about 99% of the time. I only run the chainsaw mid day, never at night or in the morning. I give the neighbors shavings for mulch too...
Hi Robo, I am a woman and just learning to turn. I am in my 50's, my family doesn't think I should be handling a chainsaw. Could you suggest a good chain for a woman? You are right I see wood everywhere now, but there is no way for me to get it without paying a lot. Thx, Becca
Rebecca, best bet would be to find the nearest club. Most will have semi organized wood parties when a tree goes down. I have been around tools all my life, and picking up the chainsaw was just another tool. If you aren't used to power tools, then you can get your self really hurt, especially with this one because it has more exposed teeth than any other tool we use. Hands on sessions with some one who knows how to teach safe use, not just some one who knows how to use a chainsaw. The electric ones are often used by beginners since they are lighter, and you can use them in or out of your shop without waking up all the neighbors. You are tied to an electric cord, but don't have to worry about gas. Get the better ones like Sthil or Husquavarna, and generally from a chain saw shop, not the big box store. The cheap ones are cheap for many reasons. You will need several chains, and need to know how to sharpen them as well, just like turning tools... Don't work well when dull. Hope this helps...
The anti-kickback tooth you referred to between the cutting teeth are called rakers; they rake the cut chips out of the cut groove. That is why the person that filed them all the way down and the saw would cut good for about thirty seconds, the raker teeth were unable to remove the chips. You need to file them shortly down, otherwise they don't allow the cutters to do their job.
Hello I just sta,rated to learn turning and bought a used older lathe. I'm wondering why the logs are are being cut into slabs? Why is 1 complete round not being used? Thanks
I have changed how I do things a bit. At my old shop, there was not really enough room for the trailer my logs get delivered on, to back into the drive. A narrow street. My new place has an easy access wide drive, and I get friends to help unload in exchange for wood. I roll the logs onto a heavy tarp, and use heavy tarps over the top of them. They are also under a big cedar tree. I get less waste if I just cut off what I need rather than trying to slab things up. I do seal the end grain now, and use the Titebond glue. Elmers works too. I still cut of a couple of inches to get through the end grain checking, but I am not losing that 3 inches off of each section.
Thank you, I'm buying a new lathe, old sears roebuck can't find parts. Threading has stopped gripping to put on the wood pieces on the front headstock. Have a nice day
@@paulshaw9355 I have seen comments come up on the turning forums about parts for them, and they seem to be able to be found. Woodturner's Resource is one. The AAW forum is another. Have fun. My first lathe was a little 4 speed Atlas. I replaced the 1/2 hp motor with a full 1 hp, which was a huge improvement. I was selling bowls at the local Saturday Market, along with hacky sacks and juggle balls. I eventually sprang for a PM 3520A. Best investment I made. It paid for itself 3 times the first year I had it, which means it covered the costs of all the accessories I needed....Have fun!.
I bought and electric chain saw over a year ago, and still haven't even turned it on. I might have to pull it out. Is that Madrone you're working with there Reed?
The turner's smock came from Craft Supplies, USA. Can't remember what they cost, but this version is light weight so easy to wear in hot weather for a sweaty guy like me. It is very durable, so, not light weight that way. As for the hat, I buy and trade with them since they are at the local Saturday Market and the only other show I do any more. The business is 'The Hat People' and you can google that. These hats are not cheap, but very well made.
I prefer to turn right away. If not right away, then within a day or two. You get cracking if it sits too long. You can put slabs in plastic bags, sink them in water, or cover with tarps at the least. I don't have any sealer any more, quit using it years ago.
reed if your cutting a tree branch about 6 inches in diamenter do you still need to remove the pith,,reason I asked this is because there would not be much to work with if you do
This is one of those 'it depends' situations. If you want to turn an end grain vessel or end grain form, then it most likely wouldn't be necessary to split or cut it down the pith. For me, first thing I would look for is any checking or splitting that is already in the log section. Just about every log I have ever cut already has one or more cracks coming off of the pith. If there is one, then best to cut or split it down that crack like. If you turn a full log diameter bowl out of a branch section and there is already a pith crack, that crack will get bigger. For standard small bowls, you want to split it down the pith anyway.
Fredrick Sickelbower Fredrick, well, no I haven't. I find it easiest to turn the bowls as soon as I can. Other than that, I keep them covered. Much depends on the species of wood and your local climate, so much different in Arizona than in wetter Oregon. Most of the time, the ends are sealed. Up off the ground keeps most bugs off. Keep out of sun and wind. I do seem to keep logs longer if I keep them whole rather than cutting up blanks first. An old method used by the loggers is to keep them in the mill pond or keep sprinklers on them.
My neighbor gave me a Maple tree. It Fell over last winter. It is 4' or more at the base and what;s left is 30' long. So I need to get it out cut up and stabilized. Any suggestions. So far I'v been cutting squares an slathering them with Anchor seal.
Fredrick Sickelbower Well, I have found that I get less end checking if I leave the log whole, then cut off pieces as I can turn them. That big of a log would last me for a couple of months of steady turning. I would suggest calling friends and sharing so you use it before you lose it. Then, of course, when they score a log, they share too. Lots of smaller pieces usually mean more end checking. It may vary depending on your local weather and climate.
This is a very good example of what not to wear when using a chainsaw. The only protection he is using is goggles. A disaster waiting to happen. If you cannot be a good example at least be a warning to others.
Construction sites.... ALWAYS ask before you start walking around a construction site. Keep in mind there is a full shoe/boot and hard hat requirement unless the site is residential. If you show up on a commercial site without proper gear they will NOT let you on and some will call the police on you. OSHA sees you out there without the proper safety gear they will fine the company. For safety reasons they might not want to let you on their site with a chainsaw. Simply ask them where their log dump is and the name of the property owner. Sometimes they will give you the contact information.
Also right holds the rear handle,,,left holds top handle. Don't hold it the other way , any kickback will throw the bar toward your face, NOT GOOD!!!!!!!
I have plenty of Logger friends, and I've been cutting wood for turning and fire for 45 years. You should consider this little wisdom ... wrap your thumb around that bar or pay a hard price. I know plenty of people who have cut their hands and logs from a kick back ... just saying ...
Not sure if I really considered that before. I think I keep a firm grip on the top bar, and a more relaxed grip on the trigger bar. I do tend to keep the top bar hand and arm rigid just in case I do get some kick back. Haven't yet, and hope I never do.
Like your channel and videos,seem like a very smart man.But if you're going to talk about safety(which is good and I respect that) rubber sandals,shorts,and no eye/face protection is not the proper way to go.Long pants have saved me from a bad cut,leather boots saved a friend from losing his big toe...Not judging!just something to think about.being safe is the important part.
I don't have any problem with the way you handle your chainsaw, I don't have a problem that you wear a short while handling a chain saw. No problem. But don't mention what w'll have to do for being save.... (in my language we say something like: "listen to my words, don't watch what I'm doing..." (free translation) - that's the proverb who's exactly wright for this video.
Bob Craen,. CAN YOU READ???!!! BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY YOU HAVE A "PROBLEM WITH" SPELLING???!!! THE TITLE OF THIS VIDEO HAS NOTHING IN IT ABOUT SAFETY, DOES IT?!!! ALSO REED SPOKE A LOT ABOUT SAFETY AND LEARNING FROM OTHERS HANDS ON IN THE BEGINNING OF HIS VIDEO!!! "LISTEN TO MY WORDS" REED SPOKE OF HOW TO CONTROL THE CHAINSAW, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY "HOW TO CUT A BOWL BLANK!!!"
Why do people say "chainsaw blades"?🤷♂️ And you go through all of that rigamarole concerning safely starting and operating a chainsaw yet you're wearing shorts and crocs. That goes against everything I've ever learned and practiced using a saw. And what about eye and ear protection?
Never thought about the chainsaw blade thing.... Double edged bar with teeth maybe..... If I was a professional logger, I would wear full safety gear. In the yard, which is mostly level and no obstructions, my chances of injury are almost zero. I do wear hearing protection and safety glasses. The shoes are Merrils, not crocs which I can't wear. I would suggest to some one starting out to wear more safety gear than I do. I have always used all sorts of tools with cutting edges. No problems yet...
What? You talk about safety then you aren't using chain saw chaps. Also I would recommend a chain saw helmet with the mesh shield and ear muffs. An advantage of an electric chain saw is that the chain stops when you release the trigger. With a gas saw you need to apply the chain brake. For cutting blanks put a longer bar on the saw. I have a Homelite 360 and run a 28" bar for bucking & blanks. But use only a 16" to 20" bar for felling.
This years winner of the "Most likely to die in a chainsaw accident" competition !..........talks about the importance of keeping a straight arm then demonstrates just how not to do it, priceless.
thanks for the video....do you always wear slippers when cutting with a chainsaw?? good thing your giving safety advice....what the......oh..nice pantyhose....wow
how long was this video talking about safety before actually showing the cutting of a bowl? At which point it becomes immediately evident the most basic safety equipment was overlooked like long pants and steel toes boots.....never take advice from anyone wearing crocs
I am always wearing shorts, and short sleeved shirts. If I was doing logging for a business, I would wear full protection. Not necessary on flat even ground with no obstacles in the way.
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
6 years after making this video you are still helping people like me, thank you.
I have modified my technique a bit. When marking my plumb lines, I just mark the front and follow that line. I do make marks on the back side, but not the plumb line. I found out they were seldom in line with each other. I also tend to push the saw straight through rather than push the far end all the way down, then cut the front. Just follow the front line down. It gets it pretty close.
Yup, that is Madrone, my most favorite wood. The bowl I show came off the lathe at 22 inches round, and stopped moving at 27 by 18 inches. That is part of why I like it so much.
It's a mover alright! and hot shavings, but beautiful color!!
That pun, "I should really get a lazy susan for this, but haven't gotten around to it." Haha, classic. Also I love those bowls. This is very informative. I just started to turn and haven't gotten any supply of unprepped wood.
This is something that I have wanted to learn more about and do for myself. Thank you for the great explanation.
I recently saw one on You Tube where some guy, maybe German, was cutting/slabbing up an oak log to make a table out of. He set up one of the laser level/plumb things, and liked the chainsaw bar up on the laser lines, which covered vertical. Really efficient idea.
I continue to get comments about safety here, and got a number of them on the woodturning forums when I posted the clips there. Comments ranged from 'this needs to be removed' to 'I am out in my drive way in shorts and flip flops'. For sure if I was out in the woods falling trees, and in situations other than the flat of my driveway, I would have more safety gear. The only hazard there is the operator, not the environment. Some people should have a bomb disposal suit on, others can get by with flip flops.
+robohippy the idea is that you r teaching by example and peoples don't think
mickey riedi,. THEN, THE ONES WHO DON'T THINK SHOULD STAY FAR FAR AWAY FROM CHAINSAWS!!! WOULDN'T YOU AGREE???!!!
Heck you're using a Swedish chainsaw - why shouldn't you wear Swedish logging sandals* as well? : ). Seriously, in Sweden these are considered industrial work shoes and come with steel toes hidden under the leather.
I can't remember if you mentioned this in your video - using a ripping chain with a 10 degree fleam makes all the difference while ripping (Ain't too bad for crosscutting either especially when the wood is frozen)
* www.byggmax.se/verktyg/arbetskläder/arbetsskor/träskor-comfort-sika-footwear-p7010124
I figure it’s Darwin in action lol
Exactly Robohippy...Way too many people are so full of shit and spend their time looking for fault rather than soak up the knowledge you are so freely imparting. My advice...dont even respond. If you want to use your chainsaw naked in the woods where people get eaten by grizzly on a daily basis, well thats up to you. These "keyboard" warriors really piss me off. I am from Australia and sorry, but i call it as I see it. Keep up the great work
That line on top of each cutting tooth does show you the proper angle to hold your file, but it also tells you when to stop sharpening and throw the chain away.
The spikes at the base of the bar are called ‘dogs’, and as you rightly point out are perfect for pivoting the chain for an accurate cut.
Thank you for the video. I especially like the cut through 90% first so the blank balance is better for the duration of chainsawing and how you look at the log/cracks/pith to make cuts that will maximize the yield.
A good video, thanks
I think everybody is responsible for their own safety and have to do a personal risk assessment. 50 years ago we used very little safety gear and used machines which would not be allowed today but hey we are still here and complete. Accidents still happen today
Hi Reed! Great video, learned a lot with it! Thank you for sharing! Cheers! Daniel
Nice video. I learned a few things that will help cut blanks. Excellent comment about the top quarter of the bar tip causing kick backs. I also like your comments on cutting trees down. I would like to add how important personal protective equipment is. It was good to see you wearing hearing protection. I do recommend wearing pants,but preferably chaps when using a chainsaw. Also, a face shield is a nice safety device - the screen type works well. My family has been in logging since the early '40s and I have cut as a profession for a few years.
There are two types of grinds on chainsaw blades. And a several different teeth setups. For beginners and ocassional operators, get a low kickback full chain. Skip and semi skip are more aggressive blades and the chance of kickback is much greater. With respect to the grinds, the first and most common is a crosscut blade. This is used for felling and bucking (cutting up for firewood or logs for milling). The second is a rip blade, it has a more square angle on the teeth (5 to 10 degrees, instead of 25 to 30 degrees on a crosscut blade). It will section the blanks quicker and easier. I keep a saw setup for crosscut and one for ripping. I live in an area that services a lot of loggers. They tend to push skip chains at the chainsaw shops, less teeth to sharpen, more aggressive cut and a little cheaper. Again if your new, or only use a saw a couple of times a month, insist on a full tooth blade.
Well, I started using chainsaws for concrete construction before they had all those light weight generators. When I bought one for my wood shop, I talked to the guys at a chain saw store, not the big box store, and after me telling them what I was doing, they suggested the rip chain. I have never tried the other style without the skip tooth. I did hear of a 'chisel' grind where the round file was not used. Probably another level that I probably will not experiment with. Not doing as much turning as I used to...
Sawing up some Eucalyptus tree tree trunks today for firewood and looking for interesting grain colour/patterns etc. The trunks range in size 12’’ to 26’’diameter , so a good size range. The trunks have drying out the past 6-months over our summer and it is time to cut them into 22’’ lengths. Having watched your video just now has given me some very useful tips. How are your neighbours?? We are semi-rural on a native bush 5-acres, so we don’t have neighbours to get upset about frequent chainsaw use, it goes with living surrounded by big eucalyptus and other hardwood species. Happy turning. Greetings from Tasmania Australia, 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
No problems with the neighbors ever. I do make sure to do my chainsaw work late morning or mid day. Never at the crack of dawn.... Even if I am up that early.
I really enjoyed your video. I'm newer to turning and am starting to harvest my own wood. This was a great video covering everything from sharpening the blade to insight into your thought process for making the bowl blanks. I've seen the other comments and anyone who is new and wore flip flops is a moron. Clearly, you've been doing this for a long time and have a different comfort level then a newbie. Speaking as a newbie, we watch many videos for safety protocol and then videos like your for concept and insight. Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
Great advice about big box stores. If you have problems only a retail outdoor tool shop can help.
Hey Reed Are those ANSI approved Crocks? Just saying.
I hope you still get this comment, despite the age of this remarkably instructive video. Above all, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!!!! Please receive that countless times from the depths of my heart.
That clearly and necessarily said, I also thank you for your very practical and pragmatic instruction, given without egotistical pretense, even though your level of experience and art is obviously deserving of respect. One question: What is the minimum bar length you would consider in gas or electric chain saws? Clearly the diameter/radius of the pieces planned has some impact. As a woman, I do not have the upper body strength of a man, although my grit makes every effort to intelligently compete. Would I be better or worse with the increased weight and torque of a longer bar? Thank you.
Thank you! Umm, not sure exactly what to tell you on size. I have a 24 inch bar on that saw, which will cut all the way through most of what I get my hands on for making bowls. Personally, I think it takes more muscle to move the logs around than it does to cut them up, though brute strength helps. With an 18 inch bar, you can cut through 24 inch logs, but you have to cut from 2 sides to get all the way through. I am not sure about electric chainsaw bar sizes. I have a Husky that I used for some years, and I think it is a 16 inch bar. Most discussions I see on the forums say the Sthil electric is far better than any of the others out there, but I have no experience with it. If you are part of a club, then most of them have wood gathering and processing sessions, which might help when brute strength is needed. I do always carry some plastic wedges, a small sledge hammer, and prefer to get the log up on some 2 by 4s before cutting. With a steady eye, and a sharp chain, the actual cutting doesn't take a lot of work. You do need to learn to sharpen your own chains, unless you seldom cut blanks. The saw shops do charge a fair sum, and they tend to remove more metal than a hand file. This is another art to learn. So, I guess there are a lot of 'it depends' things here. I seldom turn anything over about 14 inch diameter, but frequently get logs in the 24 to 30 inch diameter range.... Hope this helps.
Nicely done. I was doing a cruder version of this. Thanks for the video.
Great video! Very solid information. Tganks
Thanks a lot for sharing, very useful
Hi Reed, As a relatively new wood turner, I have had the good fortune of being given two large trunks of a 110 year old black walnut tree, with diameter of at lease 4 feet, with a length of over 31/2 feet! There are no obvious cracks, the pith is centrally located, and my mission is to figure out how to get the most viable pieces out of the remaining trunk. I would welcome any suggestions that you might have for me. Thanks,Fred Chase
How did you get on with your walnut trunk? Have you turned it all into bowls yet? And did you dry it out naturally?
thank you so much. Really helpful video.
great tips Thankyou for taking the time to share
Great informative Video, thank you !
Ring Shake is a crack that runs with an annual ring in a log. It usually only runs 1/2 - 2/3 fo the way around the annual ring. That's different from wind shake which is what you pointed out.
+Nancy Hirt This could be a tomato/tomahto type thing. Can't count the different names for the same things... As near as I can tell, ring shake comes from a sick tree, and wind shake comes from wind stress, and given some time, the wind shake will start to look like a sick tree rather than just a stress crack.
+robohippy www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/hick-log4-ringshake.jpg
forestry.about.com/od/foresthealth/ss/Ring-Shake-And-Wind-Shake.htm
image.slidesharecdn.com/timberfinal-150418072321-conversion-gate01/95/timber-defects-8-638.jpg?cb=1429341820
+robohippy More like tomato/potato. Ring shake is ring shake, what your wood had was heart shakes or stress cracks.
Our local turning club devoted a whole meeting to chain saw safety ... went to a city park for demonstrations by chain saw safety experts. Then in a subsequent meeting, we built 'Log Processing Centers' (sawbucks) based on the design from the Minnesota Woodturners ( www.mnwoodturners.com/index.php/mwa-club1/how-to-articles/31-mwa-log-processing-center-kit ). These sawbucks are a great way to hold the log.
Nice, thanks for sharing. I might add sacrificial facing pieces on top of the V pieces - if you don't trim the blank just in the middle then you don't want to cut the V pieces. Nice idea to use the strap.
I wonder if the V pieces could be made out of plywood. It could be a good way to use scrap plywood.
Thanks Rick, I didn't know that one.
How do you deal with neighbors that complain about noise, and wood dust?
Dust isn't a problem because I cut wet wood about 99% of the time. I only run the chainsaw mid day, never at night or in the morning. I give the neighbors shavings for mulch too...
Hi Robo,
I am a woman and just learning to turn. I am in my 50's, my family doesn't think I should be handling a chainsaw. Could you suggest a good chain for a woman?
You are right I see wood everywhere now, but there is no way for me to get it without paying a lot.
Thx,
Becca
Rebecca, best bet would be to find the nearest club. Most will have semi organized wood parties when a tree goes down. I have been around tools all my life, and picking up the chainsaw was just another tool. If you aren't used to power tools, then you can get your self really hurt, especially with this one because it has more exposed teeth than any other tool we use. Hands on sessions with some one who knows how to teach safe use, not just some one who knows how to use a chainsaw. The electric ones are often used by beginners since they are lighter, and you can use them in or out of your shop without waking up all the neighbors. You are tied to an electric cord, but don't have to worry about gas. Get the better ones like Sthil or Husquavarna, and generally from a chain saw shop, not the big box store. The cheap ones are cheap for many reasons. You will need several chains, and need to know how to sharpen them as well, just like turning tools... Don't work well when dull. Hope this helps...
14” stihl Rebecca. Love mine. 50 something lady hear too! Lol
Needed Video!!! Thanks!!!
The anti-kickback tooth you referred to between the cutting teeth are called rakers; they rake the cut chips out of the cut groove. That is why the person that filed them all the way down and the saw would cut good for about thirty seconds, the raker teeth were unable to remove the chips. You need to file them shortly down, otherwise they don't allow the cutters to do their job.
Thanks for sharing. l'm a rookie, compared to you, at turning. Look forward to more projects.
Hello
I just sta,rated to learn turning and bought a used older lathe.
I'm wondering why the logs are are being cut into slabs? Why is 1 complete round not being used?
Thanks
I have changed how I do things a bit. At my old shop, there was not really enough room for the trailer my logs get delivered on, to back into the drive. A narrow street. My new place has an easy access wide drive, and I get friends to help unload in exchange for wood. I roll the logs onto a heavy tarp, and use heavy tarps over the top of them. They are also under a big cedar tree. I get less waste if I just cut off what I need rather than trying to slab things up. I do seal the end grain now, and use the Titebond glue. Elmers works too. I still cut of a couple of inches to get through the end grain checking, but I am not losing that 3 inches off of each section.
Thank you, I'm buying a new lathe, old sears roebuck can't find parts. Threading has stopped gripping to put on the wood pieces on the front headstock.
Have a nice day
@@paulshaw9355 I have seen comments come up on the turning forums about parts for them, and they seem to be able to be found. Woodturner's Resource is one. The AAW forum is another. Have fun. My first lathe was a little 4 speed Atlas. I replaced the 1/2 hp motor with a full 1 hp, which was a huge improvement. I was selling bowls at the local Saturday Market, along with hacky sacks and juggle balls. I eventually sprang for a PM 3520A. Best investment I made. It paid for itself 3 times the first year I had it, which means it covered the costs of all the accessories I needed....Have fun!.
I bought and electric chain saw over a year ago, and still haven't even turned it on. I might have to pull it out. Is that Madrone you're working with there Reed?
❤❤❤❤❤
Realy good video
Where did you get your shirt and cap?
The turner's smock came from Craft Supplies, USA. Can't remember what they cost, but this version is light weight so easy to wear in hot weather for a sweaty guy like me. It is very durable, so, not light weight that way.
As for the hat, I buy and trade with them since they are at the local Saturday Market and the only other show I do any more. The business is 'The Hat People' and you can google that. These hats are not cheap, but very well made.
and then? if you don't turn it right away? do you wax it or anything to keep from splitting?
I prefer to turn right away. If not right away, then within a day or two. You get cracking if it sits too long. You can put slabs in plastic bags, sink them in water, or cover with tarps at the least. I don't have any sealer any more, quit using it years ago.
reed if your cutting a tree branch about 6 inches in diamenter do you still need to remove the pith,,reason I asked this is because there would not be much to work with if you do
This is one of those 'it depends' situations. If you want to turn an end grain vessel or end grain form, then it most likely wouldn't be necessary to split or cut it down the pith. For me, first thing I would look for is any checking or splitting that is already in the log section. Just about every log I have ever cut already has one or more cracks coming off of the pith. If there is one, then best to cut or split it down that crack like. If you turn a full log diameter bowl out of a branch section and there is already a pith crack, that crack will get bigger. For standard small bowls, you want to split it down the pith anyway.
thank you reed,,,
You talk abort safty,and cutting in shorts Without a helmet,Nice .......
Have you don a video on the next step if you cant turn it soon. How to stabilize the wood.
Fredrick Sickelbower Fredrick, well, no I haven't. I find it easiest to turn the bowls as soon as I can. Other than that, I keep them covered. Much depends on the species of wood and your local climate, so much different in Arizona than in wetter Oregon. Most of the time, the ends are sealed. Up off the ground keeps most bugs off. Keep out of sun and wind. I do seem to keep logs longer if I keep them whole rather than cutting up blanks first. An old method used by the loggers is to keep them in the mill pond or keep sprinklers on them.
My neighbor gave me a Maple tree. It Fell over last winter. It is 4' or more at the base and what;s left is 30' long. So I need to get it out cut up and stabilized. Any suggestions. So far I'v been cutting squares an slathering them with Anchor seal.
Fredrick Sickelbower Well, I have found that I get less end checking if I leave the log whole, then cut off pieces as I can turn them. That big of a log would last me for a couple of months of steady turning. I would suggest calling friends and sharing so you use it before you lose it. Then, of course, when they score a log, they share too. Lots of smaller pieces usually mean more end checking. It may vary depending on your local weather and climate.
Thank you.
Ok, so we've watched and learned, how to cut a tree, into a bowl blank. Now we need to see that blank being turned into a bowl.
Keep looking through my videos, I have a bunch of them about turning bowls. Scary Scrapers is just one.
This is a very good example of what not to wear when using a chainsaw. The only protection he is using is goggles. A disaster waiting to happen. If you cannot be a good example at least be a warning to others.
Am I to understand correctly that these blanks are being cut from madrone?
Yup, my favorite wood because it is as warped as I am....
...hee hee...'gotcha and thanks!
electric chain saw advantage #3: starts first time, every time.
As long as you remember to plug it in.... Or have a fresh battery....
Construction sites.... ALWAYS ask before you start walking around a construction site. Keep in mind there is a full shoe/boot and hard hat requirement unless the site is residential.
If you show up on a commercial site without proper gear they will NOT let you on and some will call the police on you. OSHA sees you out there without the proper safety gear they will fine the company.
For safety reasons they might not want to let you on their site with a chainsaw. Simply ask them where their log dump is and the name of the property owner. Sometimes they will give you the contact information.
Tell the cameraman to put a simple fluffy on the microphone or wind breaker to stop that terrible audio distortion.
Rule 1: Don’t start a saw unless you’re wearing chaps, face protection, and hearing protections.
*height not heigth.
Also right holds the rear handle,,,left holds top handle. Don't hold it the other way , any kickback will throw the bar toward your face, NOT GOOD!!!!!!!
I have plenty of Logger friends, and I've been cutting wood for turning and fire for 45 years. You should consider this little wisdom ... wrap your thumb around that bar or pay a hard price. I know plenty of people who have cut their hands and logs from a kick back ... just saying ...
Not sure if I really considered that before. I think I keep a firm grip on the top bar, and a more relaxed grip on the trigger bar. I do tend to keep the top bar hand and arm rigid just in case I do get some kick back. Haven't yet, and hope I never do.
Like your channel and videos,seem like a very smart man.But if you're going to talk about safety(which is good and I respect that) rubber sandals,shorts,and no eye/face protection is not the proper way to go.Long pants have saved me from a bad cut,leather boots saved a friend from losing his big toe...Not judging!just something to think about.being safe is the important part.
Nick Offerman?
I don't have any problem with the way you handle your chainsaw, I don't have a problem that you wear a short while handling a chain saw. No problem.
But don't mention what w'll have to do for being save....
(in my language we say something like: "listen to my words, don't watch what I'm doing..." (free translation) - that's the proverb who's exactly wright for this video.
Bob Craen,. CAN YOU READ???!!! BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY YOU HAVE A "PROBLEM WITH" SPELLING???!!! THE TITLE OF THIS VIDEO HAS NOTHING IN IT ABOUT SAFETY, DOES IT?!!! ALSO REED SPOKE A LOT ABOUT SAFETY AND LEARNING FROM OTHERS HANDS ON IN THE BEGINNING OF HIS VIDEO!!! "LISTEN TO MY WORDS" REED SPOKE OF HOW TO CONTROL THE CHAINSAW, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY "HOW TO CUT A BOWL BLANK!!!"
Why do people say "chainsaw blades"?🤷♂️ And you go through all of that rigamarole concerning safely starting and operating a chainsaw yet you're wearing shorts and crocs. That goes against everything I've ever learned and practiced using a saw. And what about eye and ear protection?
Never thought about the chainsaw blade thing.... Double edged bar with teeth maybe..... If I was a professional logger, I would wear full safety gear. In the yard, which is mostly level and no obstructions, my chances of injury are almost zero. I do wear hearing protection and safety glasses. The shoes are Merrils, not crocs which I can't wear. I would suggest to some one starting out to wear more safety gear than I do. I have always used all sorts of tools with cutting edges. No problems yet...
husqvarna have now created several very good professional battery operated chainsaws.
What? You talk about safety then you aren't using chain saw chaps. Also I would recommend a chain saw helmet with the mesh shield and ear muffs. An advantage of an electric chain saw is that the chain stops when you release the trigger. With a gas saw you need to apply the chain brake. For cutting blanks put a longer bar on the saw. I have a Homelite 360 and run a 28" bar for bucking & blanks. But use only a 16" to 20" bar for felling.
8 minutes before seeing a spinning chain was a little much for a video about chainsawing a blank.
This is intended for beginners, and there are a lot of them out there, biggest part of this hobby by far.
16:55 пила неправильно заточена,тянет влево!
This years winner of the "Most likely to die in a chainsaw accident" competition !..........talks about the importance of keeping a straight arm then demonstrates just how not to do it, priceless.
Don't quit your day job!
thanks for the video....do you always wear slippers when cutting with a chainsaw?? good thing your giving safety advice....what the......oh..nice pantyhose....wow
how long was this video talking about safety before actually showing the cutting of a bowl? At which point it becomes immediately evident the most basic safety equipment was overlooked like long pants and steel toes boots.....never take advice from anyone wearing crocs
Shorts? Shirt sleeves? 👎👎
I am always wearing shorts, and short sleeved shirts. If I was doing logging for a business, I would wear full protection. Not necessary on flat even ground with no obstacles in the way.
@@robohippy famous last words. Idiotic to think you are better than an accident. Crack on.
totally patronizing
Explanation please?
21 minutes of nothingness
Well, if you know everything, then maybe so. If you know nothing, then there is a lot here...
But it had him captivated till the last minute though - how else could he know? ;) lol (Anyhow - I liked it)
Kiki Martinez,. WOW.... YOUR SO BRAINDEAD..... HOW DO YOU MAKE IT THROUGH THE DAY???!!!
Did you get to this site by mistake? No washing machines here.