Nice to see you have found some 'Scumble' my grandfather used to Scumble grain onto the wood as a hobby with plenty of people wanting it done in the 60s and 70s.
If you just want to mask the pin holes (realising many of the doors have far more issues) you should be able to put a wet paper towel over the hole and then iron it. The steam will swell the compressed wood back to where it was, pretty much closing up the hole. Works great for dents too.
Having worked on doors in a similar condition, the most satisfying bit for me is taking off the 60s hardboard and exposing the original door panels to sunlight after 60 years of being kept under hardboard
I watched Barrys DIY programmes as a kid. I remember my father covered doors with hardboard as they were painted with what he called Japlac which was a hard surfaced usually black or brown stain finish which required a lot of work to get a decent key if you wanted to paint over and not have the new paint fall off . Also by covering the door you could then roller the paint and it was a quick job to do all the doors in one go as he was doing rented property refurbs at the time. Barry was also a fan of Formica and chipboard.
I had similar in an old 1930s house; lovely old doors that had been seriously abused. I didn't have the patience to strip them all myself so took them off, and had a company come collect them, then dip and strip. Delivered back in a couple of days, quick sand, then I waxed them rather than repainting. I really liked the old imperfections and old filling, gave the place real character. When I came to sell the place, one of the features that drew the buyers was the character, part of which was those doors. Obviously not for everyone, but filling and covering up isn't always the best course!
Ii renovated a 1930s house 30 years ago. The doors had 2 coats of paint that had marbled & crazed. That was almost guaranteed to be lead paint. Seller's and son covered with hardboard & white emulsion. Amazing to see how nice under that old paint
The faux wood finish is called scumble. It was relatively common in the 20s and 30s. It's done with paint, combs and brushes. I had a house in Tamworth with that finish on many of the doors. Apparently there used to be 2 blokes in the town who specialised in stumbling.
Hi Tim, really enjoy the videos. I've found old parquet floors under years of linoleum and revealed a spindle stair case for my sister, I call them hidden treasures. Also if you're lucky enough the tops of the old panel doors would have a hole or holes in the top of them, this was because years ago the man of the household would very occasionally spend his hard earned money on beer before he got home leaving the woman of the house doing sewing, knitting or cleaning jobs to feed the family etc. She would hide any of her earnings in these holes so that the husband would not find them and spend on beer. I've heard of this locally being from an industrial town where it was apparently quite common.
The wood grain effect is called figure graining then it was varnished with the old church oak varnish which always went like toffee with age which is what you had , the graining was a cheaper effect to having the real thing , it was very skilled and took years to become good at it .
Boxing in the spindles on stair banisters was another of Barry Bucknell's trademarks... My parents were big fans and transformed our 1930's era house, even removing the stained glass panels in the front door and replacing with frosted glass! 😳
Barry Bucknell has got a lot to answer for! I live in a Victorian terrace and recently I had to rip out our 1960's plank stair banister and replaced it with Victorian style spindles, knocked out lots of the boarded up fireplaces and put up coving and picture rail in every room as well.
@@jackmorris4099 That was an international trend at that time. Plain and simple was a mantra, pioneered in the 20s and taken to extremes after the war all across Europe, apart from the Soviet Union. Pre-WWI houses in central Europe often had rich concrete ornaments on the outside and some cities actually paid homeowners subsidies for having them chopped off, thus "modernising the looks of the city"! Now there's subsidies for putting the decorative elements back on.
Found them on Amazon - Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S . There are other sizes. Hope it helps
My Grandad ( an apprenticed painter and decorator) worked on that show, if you have ever watched any videos it starts off with him doing a pretty poor job and then does the Blue Peter reveal of it finished and looking perfect. This was all down to a team of proper qualified trades doing the work off camera.
When i bought my mid 1905 terraced house. all the doors were like this, panelled over, i got them dipped and stripped and like the video explains it can cause a few issues with mine it was the panels that warped a bit but they eventually went back into shape and a few little cracks here and there. The house next door was sold and the first thing the buyer did was to throw all the doors in a skip, 7 of them, so i removed them and sold them to a salvage yard. Win win.
Wow that takes me back - nearly 20 years ago my now wife and I did something similar with the doors in her house. We used Nitromors instead of heat though - great results afterwards
Why did I find the hot gun shots so satisfying... 😜 we have brown flat 1970 doors on our bedroom doors ..lived in our house 31 years and during lockdown decorated hall stairs and landing and so decided to paint them...nothing fancy but made a huge different especially as I’d already done bedrooms...but you have gone that extra step as always ... a lot of work but much better result..so 8 years is nothing! 😂😂😂
Very very fashionable in the 60s and 70s. I can remember dad doing the doors in the house I was born in, c mid 60s, and again at our next house in the early 70's. Very on trend and of course everything, any wood work at all, had to pbw high gloss.
The previous owners of my parents house did the exact same thing in the 60s and 70s. Some horrible orange and fake wood pattern sheets. I spend a fair part of my childhood renovating those doors.
One of our 1930s exterior panel doors is covered like this! Instead of hardboard they used sheet metal on the outside and thin doorskin plywood on the inside. I always assumed they did it because the door was starting to rot and they wanted a simple fix to cover up the problem and make it more weatherproof rather than fix/replace the door. I didn't realize it might have been an attempt to make the door look more modern (at the time)! At some point I look forward to pulling it off to see the condition of what's behind it. Hopefully I'll be able to strip the paint and stain or wax the interior-facing side so it'll fit in with the rest of the interior, which is all (walls, ceilings, doors, trim, floors) unpainted wood.
When I started as an apprentice joiner in 1967 with the local authority we would go to at least one house a week to rectify the tenants attempts to install rising butt hinges, Barry Bucknell probably failed to inform the TV viewers that the hinges were handed. Good fun back in the day. The brown varnish was probably shellac it was horrible stuff made from the lac bug
Tool tip for stripping paint (and caulk) off old doors and windows: infra heater - I use one of Speedheater brand. Much faster than a heat gun and you won’t risk cracking glass in windows/doors. And you have both hands free for scraping.
We found all 6 of our original 4 panel doors from 1875 in the attic covered in hard board and pink and orange paint. We had them dipped and I’ve just Osmo them
I stripped a couple of the original 1930s panelled doors in our place last year. They had so many coats of paint on them, the detail in the mouldings round the panels was being lost, and they were only going to look good if it was all taken off. The bottom coat underneath all of the white gloss was a horrible gacky stuff. When you heated it, it just became a slimy mess. Took ages to clean off, heatgun and scraper followed by wire wool. Painted the door with water based primer and oil based satin. After a few weeks, all the knots started showing a brown stain through the paint. I'd guess it was something like a shellac based primer or knotting. Ended up stripping them again, then a coat of knotting and repainting a 2nd time. I've still got the bathroom door to do, but I've been putting it off as the door needs lots of repair work. The door and frame have been moved, and when I put the frame back, the door wasn't in it. I put the door frame in making sure it was all nice and square, but didn't check that the door was square too! Need to build up the top of the door by an inch one side
Great channel guys 👌🏼 really helpful, informative and just plain interesting. How about a video showing how to change a door hinges around (as you mention in this video lots of older houses open into the middle of the room, which isn’t always great for using the space etc). We’re just moving into a 1920’s house with plenty of those and I’m loathed to pay someone to do it if it’s something we can master ourselves......
We have panel doors in our old house and the might look nice but think about the function of a interior door. A divider for privacy, Stopping unwanted Sounds going right though the house or even keeping the heat in. And think the panel is no more the 5 mill thick! Would you have a 5 mill thick door to keep the front room warm and snug? Or does a 5 mill door stop all the bedroom noise from the rest of the house? Ok the panel doors aren’t all over 5 mill but a good percentage of it is. I’ve just changed our panel door in our ensuite from the recessed panels to a slightly rised panel, filling it with insulation, hard wood and decorative coving around the edge. Works a treat. It doesn’t sound like a race horse is using the toilet any more. 😉 I’ll be doing it to the rest of the doors.
Yes, in its time it was a good way to disguise scuff marks and dust. If done well, it can look very attractive in the right setting, but in a modern house, and with all the other "imperfections" on these doors, I can understand why they are all getting over-painted.
I have an old DIY book that explains how to modernise Victorian doors just like that. It also show how to rip out your Victorian fireplaces as well. It amuses me a lot but I'm not living in a house where it's been done.
You were lucky the panel on my doors are rebated onto rails had been removed so had to replaced over 200 m . But was the right way to go . Now when i see doors in skips i take them up cycle
@@jixuscrixus1967 don't have one, never used one, but I've thought about getting one. From RUclips vids seems you can load a ton into it (I think there's one with a tractor on it??), but you do need perfectly flat ground I believe.
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Other sizes too. From Amazon
I always enjoy repair and reuse as opposed to recycle and replace. Very satisfying if I can substitute labor for cash - up to a certain point, which I am not always good at identifying.
Looks like the panel cover was an easy way to mitigate peeling lead paint. I would remove potential lead paint indoors, especially in any room that shared HVAC with my living space. Even a small amount is bad and any kind of filter less than true HEPA rated won’t catch everything.
I did this same job on at least a dozen doors on my 1930 home (that's an old house here on the west coast USA). Used a lot of the same techniques. There really isn't anyone doing this on RUclips or anywhere else online. I started using the wood block in the mortise pocket technique but moved on to using a very hot fast setting wood filler. I should have ignored the moulding like you but I tried to strip that too. What a pain! Check out Emtek knobs if you can get them in the UK. They are gorgeous! I probably doubled my lead content in my body, then finally sold the house and moved on. Thanks for showing people the way.
My doors are all original 1930’s even down to the door knobs and the little swing lock covers although some are missing I’m in the process of restoring them.
Extreme locks and security, and clawing scratch marks on the top half of the doors. Are you sure that guy was storing antiques and not kidnap victims?! ;)
😀 Fortunately not, although he did have a Great Dane. Years ago I found the results of the auction sale of his collection of antique glass and I could see why all the locks! 💰
It's probably layers of linseed oil paint and shellac. The grain effect was done by painting a solid beige or grey base, then using a dark stain and special graining tools to add the wood grain and finally shellac to give the final wood tone. You can find quite a few neat videos on that technique on RUclips. Linseed oil paint is lovely to use but really gums up when you try to strip it using heat.
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S . Other sizes too. From Amazon
What filter do use on your half mask? Is it just a P3R for the dust? Have you considered additional filters for VOCs and the like... Would help when stripping and painting. For example, Moldex 7000 series has stackable filters so you can run several together or just a singular one to save on weight and filter life. You'd be surprised how clean it can make the air, certain smells and tastes you accept (eg. In a cellar) are gone... Makes you realise how may different things you must be breathing in.
Did you consider getting the door stripped by chemical dipping? Perhaps a belt sander or a mains orbital sander? Having just sanded 9 pairs of shutters the belt sander works very well.
Definitely an option. Seen too many doors wrecked from dipping, plus we had the doors fully painted and re hung 3 days, I’m guessing dipping and then drying would take a good while longer. Started with the belt sander on the gloss but heat gun worked much better.
The stand is : Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Found it on Amazon
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Other sizes too. From Amazon
I’m working on a house now with exactly the same panelled doors and hardboard overlay. Luckily (for me) the owner isn’t interested in keeping them and I get to fit nice modern doors 😂
I’m in an old house with rubbish doors just like that which I’m now wondering if they’ve been panelled over. Was there some telltale signs I can look for to see if they’re panelled underneath?
Yeah, best thing to do if you are unsure of the door is panelled or not is that if it isn’t labelled like the doors on the video, then have a look at the very top of the door. If you see thin pieces of wood attached to the main thickness of the door, then it is covered in hardboard or more easier, tap on various areas of the door with your knuckles and if you find some areas are hollower than other parts then it is covered in hard board
I think those scratches on the door were an ill-fated attempt at stripping the paint using some kind of solvent. Definitely not claw marks. I've seen a door mangled by an unruly dog and it looks quite different.
Does anyone remember ‘scumble’ , I think it was one of those paints that you could use to get that wood grain look. The type of look that seems to have appeared in many of the houses 60 or 70 years ago, very drab nowadays
Faux bois was all the rage in the Victorian era and there were some proper artists. The idea is that you can imitate precious species of timber without having to pay for them, you're able to use timber that's particularly suitable for doors and you can get a result that looks more perfect than the nicest pieces of some fancy timber.
Our Victorian doors were dipped, stripped, pressure washed and must have been rehung wet by the previous owners... 😡 They’ve all sagged away from from the hinge side so drag on the carpets and have a wedge shaped gap at the top 🙄 Tenons and wedges are stuck fast so it would be a massively invasive task to square them up. Such a shame.
No, the arsenic-containing paint was Scheele's Green, aka a cupric hydrogen arsenide, commonly used up to the mid-19th Century. So blue wouldn't be a problem on doors of that age. If you see Green on old wallpaper, then that's a different story....
Tim I've said it before and obviously u never listened TAKE A BREAK the missus wants me to do a job in the same time as u.your a v bad influence lol take care all 5 of u,why did u not use nitrimorse Wood stripper ?
Genuine question. Why do folk get attached to old doors? I have always just ripped them out and put nice fresh new ones in. (In my houses) I'm not knocking anyone. Just intrigued as to my taste I find paneled doors less attractive. Maybe I've answered my own question haha
I find in old houses most of the doors are all different sizes. So a new door would have to be custom made for that size, as modern doors only let you cut a few millimetres from the edges. Or you have to alter the door lining.
@@arekay4929 good point. Hadn't considered that. In our current home we had small windows above the doors. To borrow light for the landing I presume. When I replaced the old doors (nasty flat egg box doors) I replaced the frames too and boarded up where the old windows were and built the frames to suit a new 1981mm door. Not an option for everyone tho so good call. 👌
You know, its actually kind of sad seeing this, how much history was completely covered over or outright destroyed across the nation because of the teachings of Bodger Barry Bucknell and his many fans?
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
It's a bonus that they just covered and didn't remove/replace. Means we get to see the original features and restore if needed.
Nice to see you have found some 'Scumble' my grandfather used to Scumble grain onto the wood as a hobby with plenty of people wanting it done in the 60s and 70s.
If you just want to mask the pin holes (realising many of the doors have far more issues) you should be able to put a wet paper towel over the hole and then iron it. The steam will swell the compressed wood back to where it was, pretty much closing up the hole. Works great for dents too.
Having worked on doors in a similar condition, the most satisfying bit for me is taking off the 60s hardboard and exposing the original door panels to sunlight after 60 years of being kept under hardboard
I watched Barrys DIY programmes as a kid. I remember my father covered doors with hardboard as they were painted with what he called Japlac which was a hard surfaced usually black or brown stain finish which required a lot of work to get a decent key if you wanted to paint over and not have the new paint fall off . Also by covering the door you could then roller the paint and it was a quick job to do all the doors in one go as he was doing rented property refurbs at the time. Barry was also a fan of Formica and chipboard.
I had similar in an old 1930s house; lovely old doors that had been seriously abused. I didn't have the patience to strip them all myself so took them off, and had a company come collect them, then dip and strip. Delivered back in a couple of days, quick sand, then I waxed them rather than repainting. I really liked the old imperfections and old filling, gave the place real character. When I came to sell the place, one of the features that drew the buyers was the character, part of which was those doors. Obviously not for everyone, but filling and covering up isn't always the best course!
Ii renovated a 1930s house 30 years ago. The doors had 2 coats of paint that had marbled & crazed. That was almost guaranteed to be lead paint. Seller's and son covered with hardboard & white emulsion. Amazing to see how nice under that old paint
The faux wood finish is called scumble. It was relatively common in the 20s and 30s. It's done with paint, combs and brushes. I had a house in Tamworth with that finish on many of the doors. Apparently there used to be 2 blokes in the town who specialised in stumbling.
We love ours. We took them to be dipped, 8 doors over 5 years. Sanded and finished with raw linseed oil. Came up lovely.
Hi Tim, really enjoy the videos.
I've found old parquet floors under years of linoleum and revealed a spindle stair case for my sister, I call them hidden treasures.
Also if you're lucky enough the tops of the old panel doors would have a hole or holes in the top of them, this was because years ago the man of the household would very occasionally spend his hard earned money on beer before he got home leaving the woman of the house doing sewing, knitting or cleaning jobs to feed the family etc.
She would hide any of her earnings in these holes so that the husband would not find them and spend on beer.
I've heard of this locally being from an industrial town where it was apparently quite common.
Perfect timing!! We've discovered the same in our home we have just bought too!!
The wood grain effect is called figure graining then it was varnished with the old church oak varnish which always went like toffee with age which is what you had , the graining was a cheaper effect to having the real thing , it was very skilled and took years to become good at it .
Tim & Jo,is there nothing ye won’t tackle. As always a great job 👏🏼👏🏼
Boxing in the spindles on stair banisters was another of Barry Bucknell's trademarks... My parents were big fans and transformed our 1930's era house, even removing the stained glass panels in the front door and replacing with frosted glass! 😳
Barry Bucknell has got a lot to answer for! I live in a Victorian terrace and recently I had to rip out our 1960's plank stair banister and replaced it with Victorian style spindles, knocked out lots of the boarded up fireplaces and put up coving and picture rail in every room as well.
Yeah Barry has a lot to answer for but like people have said at least it was only covering up features not ripping them out.
@@jackmorris4099 That was an international trend at that time. Plain and simple was a mantra, pioneered in the 20s and taken to extremes after the war all across Europe, apart from the Soviet Union. Pre-WWI houses in central Europe often had rich concrete ornaments on the outside and some cities actually paid homeowners subsidies for having them chopped off, thus "modernising the looks of the city"! Now there's subsidies for putting the decorative elements back on.
What’s the manufacturer of that portable work bench, it looks great.
Found them on Amazon - Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S . There are other sizes. Hope it helps
My Grandad ( an apprenticed painter and decorator) worked on that show, if you have ever watched any videos it starts off with him doing a pretty poor job and then does the Blue Peter reveal of it finished and looking perfect. This was all down to a team of proper qualified trades doing the work off camera.
When i bought my mid 1905 terraced house. all the doors were like this, panelled over, i got them dipped and stripped and like the video explains it can cause a few issues with mine it was the panels that warped a bit but they eventually went back into shape and a few little cracks here and there. The house next door was sold and the first thing the buyer did was to throw all the doors in a skip, 7 of them, so i removed them and sold them to a salvage yard. Win win.
Wow that takes me back - nearly 20 years ago my now wife and I did something similar with the doors in her house. We used Nitromors instead of heat though - great results afterwards
Why did I find the hot gun shots so satisfying... 😜 we have brown flat 1970 doors on our bedroom doors ..lived in our house 31 years and during lockdown decorated hall stairs and landing and so decided to paint them...nothing fancy but made a huge different especially as I’d already done bedrooms...but you have gone that extra step as always ... a lot of work but much better result..so 8 years is nothing! 😂😂😂
Very very fashionable in the 60s and 70s. I can remember dad doing the doors in the house I was born in, c mid 60s, and again at our next house in the early 70's. Very on trend and of course everything, any wood work at all, had to pbw high gloss.
That’s amazing. I have never seen someone close off the beauty of those doors. Here on Md USA I would never do that. Thank you for the video
Great job👍🏽🙏🏻
The previous owners of my parents house did the exact same thing in the 60s and 70s. Some horrible orange and fake wood pattern sheets. I spend a fair part of my childhood renovating those doors.
One of our 1930s exterior panel doors is covered like this! Instead of hardboard they used sheet metal on the outside and thin doorskin plywood on the inside. I always assumed they did it because the door was starting to rot and they wanted a simple fix to cover up the problem and make it more weatherproof rather than fix/replace the door. I didn't realize it might have been an attempt to make the door look more modern (at the time)! At some point I look forward to pulling it off to see the condition of what's behind it. Hopefully I'll be able to strip the paint and stain or wax the interior-facing side so it'll fit in with the rest of the interior, which is all (walls, ceilings, doors, trim, floors) unpainted wood.
When I started as an apprentice joiner in 1967 with the local authority we would go to at least one house a week to rectify the tenants attempts to install rising butt hinges, Barry Bucknell probably failed to inform the TV viewers that the hinges were handed. Good fun back in the day. The brown varnish was probably shellac it was horrible stuff made from the lac bug
Still used loads in the art industry. Hate the stuff, but some projects are perfect uses for it. Nothing quite does what it does unfortunately.
I bought an 85 year old farmhouse two years ago and it is criminal what people do to doors. Mine are the old 5 panel doors lot of work too!!!
TX10 job done no need for heat gun. Suggestion only. Love your channel. My tile job in the house. Brill after your vid
Tool tip for stripping paint (and caulk) off old doors and windows: infra heater - I use one of Speedheater brand. Much faster than a heat gun and you won’t risk cracking glass in windows/doors. And you have both hands free for scraping.
We found all 6 of our original 4 panel doors from 1875 in the attic covered in hard board and pink and orange paint. We had them dipped and I’ve just Osmo them
Love it!
We had a door dipped and stripped it looked great, just needed sanding after. Saved a lot of time.
To many horror stories so didn’t want to risk the joinery. Perhaps worth it if we were not painting and needed 100% stripped. 👍
“Maybe it’s me being lazy” ha ha I don’t think so Tim !
I stripped a couple of the original 1930s panelled doors in our place last year. They had so many coats of paint on them, the detail in the mouldings round the panels was being lost, and they were only going to look good if it was all taken off.
The bottom coat underneath all of the white gloss was a horrible gacky stuff. When you heated it, it just became a slimy mess. Took ages to clean off, heatgun and scraper followed by wire wool. Painted the door with water based primer and oil based satin. After a few weeks, all the knots started showing a brown stain through the paint. I'd guess it was something like a shellac based primer or knotting. Ended up stripping them again, then a coat of knotting and repainting a 2nd time. I've still got the bathroom door to do, but I've been putting it off as the door needs lots of repair work. The door and frame have been moved, and when I put the frame back, the door wasn't in it. I put the door frame in making sure it was all nice and square, but didn't check that the door was square too! Need to build up the top of the door by an inch one side
Great channel guys 👌🏼 really helpful, informative and just plain interesting.
How about a video showing how to change a door hinges around (as you mention in this video lots of older houses open into the middle of the room, which isn’t always great for using the space etc). We’re just moving into a 1920’s house with plenty of those and I’m loathed to pay someone to do it if it’s something we can master ourselves......
that intro caught me off guard for a second xD
man, Tim, do you ever stop???? you make us look like lazy farts! 😃
A lot of work but the true doors have a great look, painted up they'll look new.
We have panel doors in our old house and the might look nice but think about the function of a interior door. A divider for privacy, Stopping unwanted Sounds going right though the house or even keeping the heat in. And think the panel is no more the 5 mill thick! Would you have a 5 mill thick door to keep the front room warm and snug? Or does a 5 mill door stop all the bedroom noise from the rest of the house? Ok the panel doors aren’t all over 5 mill but a good percentage of it is. I’ve just changed our panel door in our ensuite from the recessed panels to a slightly rised panel, filling it with insulation, hard wood and decorative coving around the edge. Works a treat. It doesn’t sound like a race horse is using the toilet any more. 😉 I’ll be doing it to the rest of the doors.
The faux graining on the doors was from the Victorian era ! the dark was the base . like real wood.
Yes, in its time it was a good way to disguise scuff marks and dust. If done well, it can look very attractive in the right setting, but in a modern house, and with all the other "imperfections" on these doors, I can understand why they are all getting over-painted.
I have an old DIY book that explains how to modernise Victorian doors just like that. It also show how to rip out your Victorian fireplaces as well. It amuses me a lot but I'm not living in a house where it's been done.
You were lucky the panel on my doors are rebated onto rails had been removed so had to replaced over 200 m . But was the right way to go . Now when i see doors in skips i take them up cycle
You love a spray gun tim ! Does leave a great finish I must say 👍
Only sprayed the first two coats on these as we wanted a brushed finish. Took ages in comparison though!
Could you put a link to that foldable workbench please? Thanks a mill mate!!
Bora centipede
Thanks, don’t know why the heat gun got a mention and there was nothing on the foldable workbench....
@@jixuscrixus1967 don't have one, never used one, but I've thought about getting one. From RUclips vids seems you can load a ton into it (I think there's one with a tractor on it??), but you do need perfectly flat ground I believe.
Have you got a link to the pop up table for the kickback?
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Other sizes too. From Amazon
I always enjoy repair and reuse as opposed to recycle and replace. Very satisfying if I can substitute labor for cash - up to a certain point, which I am not always good at identifying.
Looks like the panel cover was an easy way to mitigate peeling lead paint.
I would remove potential lead paint indoors, especially in any room that shared HVAC with my living space. Even a small amount is bad and any kind of filter less than true HEPA rated won’t catch everything.
What filler do you plan to use Tim?
A bit of our Barry's work there. (Bucknall).
Impressed with the telescopic work bench. Any more details please? Would really come in hnady for me as I am just about to fit out a narrowboat shell.
Bora centipede. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple Many thanks.
I started a project like this on the picture rails in the hall about 18 months ago.
Still work in progress 😂😂😫
I did this same job on at least a dozen doors on my 1930 home (that's an old house here on the west coast USA). Used a lot of the same techniques. There really isn't anyone doing this on RUclips or anywhere else online.
I started using the wood block in the mortise pocket technique but moved on to using a very hot fast setting wood filler. I should have ignored the moulding like you but I tried to strip that too. What a pain! Check out Emtek knobs if you can get them in the UK. They are gorgeous!
I probably doubled my lead content in my body, then finally sold the house and moved on. Thanks for showing people the way.
You have to be careful when working on removing old lead based paint
My doors are all original 1930’s even down to the door knobs and the little swing lock covers although some are missing I’m in the process of restoring them.
Great to hear!
The other Bucknell trademark was "boxing in" the stairs. 🙀
I take it you saw the stairs restoration a couple of years back. This house was truly Bucknell bombed! 😂
Extreme locks and security, and clawing scratch marks on the top half of the doors. Are you sure that guy was storing antiques and not kidnap victims?! ;)
😀 Fortunately not, although he did have a Great Dane. Years ago I found the results of the auction sale of his collection of antique glass and I could see why all the locks! 💰
You have a good extraction set up there - but would doing this in situ, indoors have a risk of disturbing old, lead paint? Especially with heat gun?
The internal doors in my house where like this, removed the panels about 6 years ago and had that horrible brown stuff underneath as well
It's probably layers of linseed oil paint and shellac. The grain effect was done by painting a solid beige or grey base, then using a dark stain and special graining tools to add the wood grain and finally shellac to give the final wood tone. You can find quite a few neat videos on that technique on RUclips. Linseed oil paint is lovely to use but really gums up when you try to strip it using heat.
NOOICE!
Super helpful.
Was wondering what setting/temperature on the heat gun you were using to get the paint off? Thank you.
Ended up on the highest for most of it, just using distance to regulate.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you!
What are those work tables you're using? They look good!
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S . Other sizes too. From Amazon
Have you considered squeezing in another couple of projects at the same time? 🤣
What filter do use on your half mask? Is it just a P3R for the dust? Have you considered additional filters for VOCs and the like... Would help when stripping and painting. For example, Moldex 7000 series has stackable filters so you can run several together or just a singular one to save on weight and filter life. You'd be surprised how clean it can make the air, certain smells and tastes you accept (eg. In a cellar) are gone... Makes you realise how may different things you must be breathing in.
Wow, can you tell me, how this or this kind of foldable working table is called? Thanks.
I used peelaway to get rid of my old paint
Can't believe it took you seven years to get to these doors. What did you do the whole time?
Think he was working on every other inch of the house and garden!
Did you consider getting the door stripped by chemical dipping? Perhaps a belt sander or a mains orbital sander? Having just sanded 9 pairs of shutters the belt sander works very well.
Definitely an option. Seen too many doors wrecked from dipping, plus we had the doors fully painted and re hung 3 days, I’m guessing dipping and then drying would take a good while longer. Started with the belt sander on the gloss but heat gun worked much better.
@@TheRestorationCouple I was impressed with the heat gun, it looked very controlled. After dipping doors certainly need a few days to dry.
Can you tell me where did you get the work stand
The stand is : Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Found it on Amazon
Great job but did Tim identify each door for ease of reinstalling as they'll all be slightly different?
Little chisel notches on the tops. 👌
Hi got similar doors pine doors
It’s back to bear pine what primer paint should i use and what top coat will you recommend thank you.
Shame they got rid of those old door knobs too!
Hi we're do you get the fold out table cheers
Bora Centipede 4x8 15-Strut Work Stand and Portable Table | XL Sawhorse Support with Folding, Collapsible Steel Legs, CK15S. Other sizes too. From Amazon
Is it safe to use a heat gun on old lead paint? I have a lot on woodwork in our house and alternatives are using stripper (long job) or replacement.
Not sure if you know but the standard ffp3 masks don’t give much protection from fumes. They’re for dust particles
Any reason you didn’t use nitro mors?
Sometimes it better to tell yourself a small lie, and stop the job at a sensible time. 😁
I’m working on a house now with exactly the same panelled doors and hardboard overlay. Luckily (for me) the owner isn’t interested in keeping them and I get to fit nice modern doors 😂
Do sell those old ones. Please don't chuck them out.
the doors wear painted from the beginning a cheap pine door was faux grained to look expensive .
'' me laughing as a sandblaster'' i am sorry that you had to do it the way you did it i get it because 10k on a sandblasting setup isn't diy friendly
I’m in an old house with rubbish doors just like that which I’m now wondering if they’ve been panelled over. Was there some telltale signs I can look for to see if they’re panelled underneath?
Yeah, best thing to do if you are unsure of the door is panelled or not is that if it isn’t labelled like the doors on the video, then have a look at the very top of the door. If you see thin pieces of wood attached to the main thickness of the door, then it is covered in hardboard or more easier, tap on various areas of the door with your knuckles and if you find some areas are hollower than other parts then it is covered in hard board
@@life_seeker6102 Brilliant! Thank you 👍🏻
If u did not know u can buy a 3 litre wood filler from euro car parts and u can buy extra hardner from amazone if u run out
Me: No way he can restore this
The Restoration Couple: We will see..
Me: No way he can restore this
Tim: Hold my crowbar
I think those scratches on the door were an ill-fated attempt at stripping the paint using some kind of solvent. Definitely not claw marks. I've seen a door mangled by an unruly dog and it looks quite different.
Brilliant work. However, leaving the natural color can be preferable to some of us.
Does anyone remember ‘scumble’ , I think it was one of those paints that you could use to get that wood grain look. The type of look that seems to have appeared in many of the houses 60 or 70 years ago, very drab nowadays
Faux bois was all the rage in the Victorian era and there were some proper artists. The idea is that you can imitate precious species of timber without having to pay for them, you're able to use timber that's particularly suitable for doors and you can get a result that looks more perfect than the nicest pieces of some fancy timber.
wait a minute, did you say Eden has been living with that door most of her life?
Our Victorian doors were dipped, stripped, pressure washed and must have been rehung wet by the previous owners... 😡 They’ve all sagged away from from the hinge side so drag on the carpets and have a wedge shaped gap at the top 🙄 Tenons and wedges are stuck fast so it would be a massively invasive task to square them up. Such a shame.
Who’s the other bloke?
Be careful if those doors are Victorian.. that blue color is made with arsenic
It was most likely last repainted In the 40s/50s. It was uncommon for Victorian doors to be painted in colours as they were normally stained
No, the arsenic-containing paint was Scheele's Green, aka a cupric hydrogen arsenide, commonly used up to the mid-19th Century. So blue wouldn't be a problem on doors of that age. If you see Green on old wallpaper, then that's a different story....
Tim I've said it before and obviously u never listened TAKE A BREAK the missus wants me to do a job in the same time as u.your a v bad influence lol take care all 5 of u,why did u not use nitrimorse Wood stripper ?
Genuine question. Why do folk get attached to old doors? I have always just ripped them out and put nice fresh new ones in. (In my houses) I'm not knocking anyone. Just intrigued as to my taste I find paneled doors less attractive. Maybe I've answered my own question haha
I find in old houses most of the doors are all different sizes. So a new door would have to be custom made for that size, as modern doors only let you cut a few millimetres from the edges. Or you have to alter the door lining.
@@arekay4929 good point. Hadn't considered that. In our current home we had small windows above the doors. To borrow light for the landing I presume. When I replaced the old doors (nasty flat egg box doors) I replaced the frames too and boarded up where the old windows were and built the frames to suit a new 1981mm door.
Not an option for everyone tho so good call. 👌
All Barry Bucknall's fault!
You know, its actually kind of sad seeing this, how much history was completely covered over or outright destroyed across the nation because of the teachings of Bodger Barry Bucknell and his many fans?