My dinos stared in my 100l nano after NoPox treatment for massive hair algae issue.. I overdid the treatment as I was so impressed with the results... Then.. Massive dinos... No water changes and overfeeding for a few months while blasting the dinos regularly off the Corals kept corals happy enough THEN.....I added an oversized UV steriliser and cannister filter with fine media, and put the intake in the middle of the tank, blasted all the dinos and turned of the lights, letting it run for a few days. Done, no trace of dinos at all. I was cautious with the lighting at first with only blue for a few weeks and now back to normal for a month... Nothing, no dinos, none... Hope this helps someone
Misleading title. If we're honest you got beat. Resetting the tank was a waste. Nutrient export is not the right conclusion at all. Biodiversity and nutrient availability is. The dirty method is what works. You just gave up on it too soon the first time around before you called it quits. I've seen dino infestations a lot worse than yours get obliterated by simple nutrient and biodiversity introduction. It's counterintuitive to what we're used to for nuisance algae management,, but dinos ain't really algae after all. Glad you're on the mend and the tank is doing well again. Dinos will always be in your system from this point on. It's just a matter of keeping them from having conditions ripe for a bloom.
I agree that it's misleading. And I can assure you that using the cheato reactor to lower nutrients did nothing against the dino's. In fact you're lucky it didn't make things worse
Yeah you're absolutely right Robert. He got really lucky that there was enough nutrient and biodiversity in that rock he used to reset the tank to keep the dinos in check because that chaeto reactor was for sure doing the opposite of helping. I wouldn't be surprised if he gets another bloom to be honest.
What I believe happened is the chaeto reactor helped to counter-act the dinos since it grew macro algae to outcompete the dinos. I agree nutrient availability seems to play a big part and in fact I do dose both nitrates and phosphates to keep nutrients in balance to maximize chaeto growth, which happens when nitrates are at a 100:1 ratio with phosphates. I also believe it is easier to control this ratio with a chaeto reactor versus GFO since you can dial the light period up or down. I cover these point is another video so my apologies for not having all of my backup rationale in this video.
The dosing of nitrate makes sense, but growing chaeto in a confined reactor does absolutely zippo to combat dinos so you're way off on your assumption that the chaeto reactor 'outcompeted' dinos. The dosing of nitrate and general nutrient availability you were maintaining to grow the chaeto likely allowed more natural microflora and fauna to survive and occupy the surface areas in the main tank where dinos would otherwise grow- that is what outcompetes dino, not a macroalgaes in a refugium or reactor. Hope that makes sense to you cause telling people chaeto will help with dinos is downright wrong IMO.
I'm new into the hobby, I started with a 38gal tank 15 months ago. I have 50 frags and 3 small fish: clown, cardinal and a goby. A few months ago, I realized that NO3 and PO4 levels were decreasing but I just ignored it, I didn't know more. The tank was left like that for months and later I realize that the corals were shrinking. I read about it and I learned the 2 elements at ZERO was the cause, my corals were starving. I started dosing both (Neophos and B-Ionic Nitrate) on daily basis until reaching the levels NO3: 6 and PO4: 0.08. A colossal green stuff outbreak came fast. I have not idea what's that nasty green jelly-like stuff that was sticking on the sand and the coral plugs. In a few days it was invading the rocks. I did a big water change, the levels of NO3 and PO4 went to Zero again after 3 weeks but that was not too much of a help because the green stuff is still there and expanding. I decided to contact BRS for support. I feel they were not sure what it was either after seeing the pictures so they just suggest me to read about cyanobacteria. I removed a good part of that sticky green film but there's still a lot behind the rocks where my hand can't reach. I have not idea what is it and I don't know what to do. Sometimes I feel I'm about to give up the hobby. I just don't know what to do.
I use reef liverocks and good bacteria from KZ and now AF in my 7months old tank. Never seen any kind of algea blooms everything seems slow and steady. FYI I live near Indonesia reefs are all around me thus I get fresh clean liverocks that still needs to be cured for 8weeks before use.
Man, I love how honest you are bro. I thought it was just me that runs into all these crazy issues! 😼🙂 I think you did the right thing man. You gotta know when to hold em and when to fold em. 👍
Thanks! Yes, my corals had taken a beating with all the different treatments so starting over made a lot of sense. Tank is doing really well right now.
Been following you for a few years, sorry that you went through this dilemma. Been there as well its always fun to have a successful tank but once a crash happens it hard to not give in. GOOD JOB keep up the uplifting spirt sir!
Great video keith.. I think this one will help out alot of reefers! I've already avoided these pitfalls watching your "tank crash video". I too had dinos pop up and dialed in my UV sterilizer and increased overall sump turnover which increased flow to the cheato. Dinos lasted a day or so bringing my phosphates down to 0. which alerted me of a huge problem since nothing else had changed nutrient wise. I overfed and blasted them of the rock and noticed as my phosphates stabilized to above 10PPB the dinos where history. Have not seen them for months! We all reefers have to assume adding chemicals to deal with one problem will surely effect the good organisms... You have beaten dinos the correct way! Congrats!!!
Thanks Ashish! You bring up a good point about nutrients. I keep my nitrates at 5 ppm and phosphates around .05 ppm. IMO, an ULNS is not good since it will give dinos an opportunity to take over and thrive.
Did you have another tank to put corals in during the reboot? I think I may have dinos but not sure. Its just on glass and coverd my wavemakers like a mat of velvet after waterchange and my nitrates were 2 and phosphates 0 after dosing nopox. Its in the sand a little but looks more like diatoms. I think its green hair algae on some patches of rock. I was planning was to use Vibrant since I am not sure and at least it should take care of the green hair algae but now I am scared since it cause some other outbreak in your system. I am now wondering if I should just keep trying to vacum out. I dont have a refugium or any natural way My tank is about 7 months old and has had corals for a couple months maybe, but way to many frags at once..like 30! LOL which made my nitates go sky high...hence the nopox. Did dinos cause your skimmer to go nuts? Mine just keeps over skimming for no apparent reason? After i cleaned wavemakers and glass and just stirred up sand bed it already looks alot better. I would like to tackle it before it gets crazy not sure. What would you suggest?. Can diatoms cover wavemakers and glass as well as sand? I have hd this before as well seemed to go away and now back but worse. My phospates have always been to low maybe. I didnt really check to much, but I used chemipure elite in sump. I am also upping my phopahtes with brightwell phosphates and have added some MB& and xtra coral feedings trying to up nitrates. I also hate waiting on a waterchange since I usually nevr wait more than every 10 days. so If adding phophates dosnt work then trying another method after that it could take well over a monh. Will corals be ok that long with no water change? I may up my alk, since all the coral additions has it down to 7.5 but maintaing much better than a few weeks ago it was dropping like crazy! Sorry so many questions but I know you da man! Love ur channel!
Hi great video. But the problem is.. My sand is brown but yet doesn't have those long stringy bubble thing as seen in dinoflagellates tanks. However mine can't be diatom as my tank is almost 6 months.. Not sure if u could help me identify it its Dino or jus normal brown algae. As my phosphate and nitrates are rather high at 0.25 and 20 respectively. So it's not too clean a tank.
ReefBum yup tds 0.. I just bought a macro reactor recently too.. And aqua forest phosphate minus. Will try to lower my nitrates and phosphate first.. And see if its really dinoflagellates. If the brown does not subside den guess its dinoflagellates
I had success siphoning them out and doing water changes at the same time. Left also lights off for 2 days. Skimmer working at all times and kalk dosing, as I normally do. The pH was around 8.2 - 8.3 during the time and I didn't feed the fish for like 4 days. There are many species of dinoflagellates and I know some are harder than others to get rid of. IMO they will eventually die off anyways and there is no need to dismantle the system. Can you imagine if you have another outbreak now? Are you going to keep taking that system a part because of dinos? Hummm.. I'm glad you are done with the problem.
after your experience with dinos from changing to liverock do you believe they exist in every reef tank? right niw do you still prefer dry rock or good old liverock?
@@ReefBum I have switch to some liverock I cured notice a great amount of differences in coral growth. What are your suggestion im dealing with very small patches of dinos here and there?
Hey, thx for you info! I am using as natural as possible Bee Honey for my 250 Liters reef tank. First i had some nasty places and now 3 days later and dosing 1 thea spoon of honey a day the dino's seem to go away!! Greetings from the Netherlands
Day 5 and it's getting cloudy because of the Carbon (sugar in Honey). The Carbon activates Bacterial colonies and you will get a Bloom. Tomorrow there will be a 25% water change and then i expect that the cloudyness will go away. I stopped with dosing Honey because of the bloom but also the purple slurry is gone and the tank looks stunning clean!
A grueling journey!! I’ve got them in my 25 gallon and have been blowing them off the rocks and frequently changing the filter floss while feeding heavily. I feel like I’m starting to see some progress after about a week or so, I hope it keeps on this path! I figure if I keep removing them and give algae and bacteria space and time to grow, they’ll ultimately outcompete the Dino’s.
I think a big part of it is using dry rock these days versus live rock. More biodiversity with live rock and less chance for dinos to take hold in a very low nutrient tank.
Higher tank temperatures I read a forum that said most reefers used to run their tanks at around 82-83 degrees because of metal halides and chillers weren’t wide spread. Anyway this guy talks about setting up a new tank when and using live rock from an existing tank. In the middle of it the old tank has a Dino outbreak and sure enough so does the new tank. Difference was the new tank was running at 83 degrees and the outbreak went away in a week. The old tank at 78 degrees still had them....
Very nice video! I am at the point to reboot my system, these creepy dinos already killed all my SPS. My question is do those dipping method avoid to introduce dinos on the system?
Thank you!. I am not aware of any dips specifically to keep dinos out of a tank and I would be skeptical about it working since you are talking about a single cell pest that has survived since the beginning of time :) My advice is to have a lot of biodiversity in the tank (live rock for starters) some levels of nitrates and phosphates and use natural means for nutrient control.
I actually find it much easier to maintain an algae reactor then a media reactor with GFO since it is less of a mess and you can ramp up or down the light cycle on an algae reactor to control nutrients. But you can achieve success using both methods.
this is very interesting as nothing you did worked apart from when you ramped up your chaeto. if you watch inappropriate reefer's vids when he couldn't beat them he did exactly the same thing and his went fast too. from everything i have watch and read on dino's, the chaeto beats them. my tank was beating them, then i dumped in too much mysis shrimp and didn't rinse them for my 20gallon tank and the phos went up from 0.03 to 0.08 in 2 days and the dino's exploded and bloomed at the exact same time. INTERESTING.
Your problem is your OCD. Just relax, take a breath and let things run their course. We have all faced dinos when setting up a tank. You make things much worse by overreacting and I think restarting your tank was a huge mistake.
Trevor, thanks for watching and for chiming in. I encourage people like yourself to pass along their opinions, perspectives and experiences......feel free to provide more specifics on how you beat dinos to help others!
I had them really bad for about a month. I spot shot them with hydrogen peroxide as needed. I kept my calm and they started to go away. I kept up with my usual feeding, water changes and Ca Reactor habits. My rule is that whenever I am getting a strange algae in a newish tank that I shouldn't overreact because it usually makes things worse. Carry on as though nothing is happening bad and things will naturally clean up with the snails.
Im dealing this now, I am winning the battle. I have reduced my light schedule to 7hrs, and a long dark period per day. I am using heavy GFO, as well as PhosGuard. I am over skimming, but also feeding heavily. I am about to setup again my chaeto reactor tonight. In hopes to defeat them for good. Mine arent as bad as yours but still nasty. They are a true pest, I've been reefing since the late 90's and two years ago was my first time with ich, and no dinos. Odd after all these years. I pinpointed the ich to a bad batch of crabs and snails from a local lfs that didnt keep its tanks clean and had an outbreak as well. I lost my purple tang ( sucks) as well as my tomeni tang and my clowns. Again sucks. I had quarantined and copper dosed but it didnt stop the ich. In this hobby you have to have a character made of steel or you will be easily defeated. Keep on reefing man.
Pretty sure it wasn't the algea reactor that solved the problem. More likely it was simply time that solved it. Competing organisms finally came into balance. Also, I think he gave up on vibrant to quick as he went from success to cyano... what if he kept going wonder if it would have also killed the cyano. hmmm
for anyone watching this... don't go chasing the problem with chemicals. just feed heavy and stop doing water changes. add another fish if the system is understocked. chemicals won't fix the underlying cause
I gut fuckin Dino’s too!! I think it happened due to the extreme heatwave that we had here in SoCal. I tried blackout for 5 days, siphoning them out, frequent water changes, wet skimming, dry skimming, dosed tank with waste away, added a shit ton of copepods (tigger pods), now I’m doing another blackout. I’m still feeding fish every day, and now I’m using a drop in algae scrubber. Light for scrubber is on a reverse cycle from my tank lights so it’s not on 24 hours. I’m finally getting good growth in the scrubber, went back to regular skimming. I’m also using a poly filter pad ( I heard that works for getting rid of Dino’s, but I don’t know). I watched your video because I was thinking of dosing tank with peroxide. I used peroxide before on my pumps and some rock, but never in my tank. I’m scared to do that. I know bristleworms don’t like it, 🤣🤣😂🤣… I’m afraid of what it’ll do to my other inverts…I’m considering a complete breakdown too… start with new rock too…
You did the total opposite of what you had to do but this is new to all of us, dinos happen from lack of biodiversity and low nutrients all I did was dose phosphate nitrate add pods and phyto and dirtied the tank once algae showed up dinos went away
All you needed was about 100 or more reef safe hermit crabs. The more the better. That algae and cyano would be gone overnight. Too bad pet stores don't rent them.
@@ReefBum it is the floating type unfortunately it’s only a 15g I don’t have any room for that. Any other suggestions before I throw this tank out the window ? Lol
My dinos stared in my 100l nano after NoPox treatment for massive hair algae issue.. I overdid the treatment as I was so impressed with the results... Then.. Massive dinos... No water changes and overfeeding for a few months while blasting the dinos regularly off the Corals kept corals happy enough THEN.....I added an oversized UV steriliser and cannister filter with fine media, and put the intake in the middle of the tank, blasted all the dinos and turned of the lights, letting it run for a few days. Done, no trace of dinos at all. I was cautious with the lighting at first with only blue for a few weeks and now back to normal for a month... Nothing, no dinos, none... Hope this helps someone
Did they came back?
Misleading title. If we're honest you got beat. Resetting the tank was a waste. Nutrient export is not the right conclusion at all. Biodiversity and nutrient availability is. The dirty method is what works. You just gave up on it too soon the first time around before you called it quits. I've seen dino infestations a lot worse than yours get obliterated by simple nutrient and biodiversity introduction. It's counterintuitive to what we're used to for nuisance algae management,, but dinos ain't really algae after all. Glad you're on the mend and the tank is doing well again. Dinos will always be in your system from this point on. It's just a matter of keeping them from having conditions ripe for a bloom.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate you providing your opinion and I encourage others to do so as well.
I agree that it's misleading. And I can assure you that using the cheato reactor to lower nutrients did nothing against the dino's. In fact you're lucky it didn't make things worse
Yeah you're absolutely right Robert. He got really lucky that there was enough nutrient and biodiversity in that rock he used to reset the tank to keep the dinos in check because that chaeto reactor was for sure doing the opposite of helping. I wouldn't be surprised if he gets another bloom to be honest.
What I believe happened is the chaeto reactor helped to counter-act the dinos since it grew macro algae to outcompete the dinos. I agree nutrient availability seems to play a big part and in fact I do dose both nitrates and phosphates to keep nutrients in balance to maximize chaeto growth, which happens when nitrates are at a 100:1 ratio with phosphates. I also believe it is easier to control this ratio with a chaeto reactor versus GFO since you can dial the light period up or down. I cover these point is another video so my apologies for not having all of my backup rationale in this video.
The dosing of nitrate makes sense, but growing chaeto in a confined reactor does absolutely zippo to combat dinos so you're way off on your assumption that the chaeto reactor 'outcompeted' dinos. The dosing of nitrate and general nutrient availability you were maintaining to grow the chaeto likely allowed more natural microflora and fauna to survive and occupy the surface areas in the main tank where dinos would otherwise grow- that is what outcompetes dino, not a macroalgaes in a refugium or reactor. Hope that makes sense to you cause telling people chaeto will help with dinos is downright wrong IMO.
I'm new into the hobby, I started with a 38gal tank 15 months ago. I have 50 frags and 3 small fish: clown, cardinal and a goby. A few months ago, I realized that NO3 and PO4 levels were decreasing but I just ignored it, I didn't know more. The tank was left like that for months and later I realize that the corals were shrinking. I read about it and I learned the 2 elements at ZERO was the cause, my corals were starving. I started dosing both (Neophos and B-Ionic Nitrate) on daily basis until reaching the levels NO3: 6 and PO4: 0.08. A colossal green stuff outbreak came fast. I have not idea what's that nasty green jelly-like stuff that was sticking on the sand and the coral plugs. In a few days it was invading the rocks. I did a big water change, the levels of NO3 and PO4 went to Zero again after 3 weeks but that was not too much of a help because the green stuff is still there and expanding. I decided to contact BRS for support. I feel they were not sure what it was either after seeing the pictures so they just suggest me to read about cyanobacteria. I removed a good part of that sticky green film but there's still a lot behind the rocks where my hand can't reach. I have not idea what is it and I don't know what to do. Sometimes I feel I'm about to give up the hobby. I just don't know what to do.
I use reef liverocks and good bacteria from KZ and now AF in my 7months old tank. Never seen any kind of algea blooms everything seems slow and steady. FYI I live near Indonesia reefs are all around me thus I get fresh clean liverocks that still needs to be cured for 8weeks before use.
Thumbs up to that!
i find that impossible... specially when you’re putting live rock directly from the ocean...
Man, I love how honest you are bro. I thought it was just me that runs into all these crazy issues! 😼🙂 I think you did the right thing man. You gotta know when to hold em and when to fold em. 👍
Thanks! Yes, my corals had taken a beating with all the different treatments so starting over made a lot of sense. Tank is doing really well right now.
Been following you for a few years, sorry that you went through this dilemma. Been there as well its always fun to have a successful tank but once a crash happens it hard to not give in. GOOD JOB keep up the uplifting spirt sir!
Thank you Ken!
Usually dinos go away if you use silicate removing products such as rowaphos.. mine did as soon as i started running rowaphos
Diatoms maybe... as they need Si not dinos...
Please explain how you dialed in your Pax.
Great video keith.. I think this one will help out alot of reefers! I've already avoided these pitfalls watching your "tank crash video". I too had dinos pop up and dialed in my UV sterilizer and increased overall sump turnover which increased flow to the cheato. Dinos lasted a day or so bringing my phosphates down to 0. which alerted me of a huge problem since nothing else had changed nutrient wise. I overfed and blasted them of the rock and noticed as my phosphates stabilized to above 10PPB the dinos where history. Have not seen them for months! We all reefers have to assume adding chemicals to deal with one problem will surely effect the good organisms... You have beaten dinos the correct way! Congrats!!!
Thanks Ashish! You bring up a good point about nutrients. I keep my nitrates at 5 ppm and phosphates around .05 ppm. IMO, an ULNS is not good since it will give dinos an opportunity to take over and thrive.
Did you have another tank to put corals in during the reboot? I think I may have dinos but not sure. Its just on glass and coverd my wavemakers like a mat of velvet after waterchange and my nitrates were 2 and phosphates 0 after dosing nopox. Its in the sand a little but looks more like diatoms. I think its green hair algae on some patches of rock. I was planning was to use Vibrant since I am not sure and at least it should take care of the green hair algae but now I am scared since it cause some other outbreak in your system. I am now wondering if I should just keep trying to vacum out. I dont have a refugium or any natural way My tank is about 7 months old and has had corals for a couple months maybe, but way to many frags at once..like 30! LOL which made my nitates go sky high...hence the nopox. Did dinos cause your skimmer to go nuts? Mine just keeps over skimming for no apparent reason? After i cleaned wavemakers and glass and just stirred up sand bed it already looks alot better. I would like to tackle it before it gets crazy not sure. What would you suggest?. Can diatoms cover wavemakers and glass as well as sand? I have hd this before as well seemed to go away and now back but worse. My phospates have always been to low maybe. I didnt really check to much, but I used chemipure elite in sump. I am also upping my phopahtes with brightwell phosphates and have added some MB& and xtra coral feedings trying to up nitrates. I also hate waiting on a waterchange since I usually nevr wait more than every 10 days. so If adding phophates dosnt work then trying another method after that it could take well over a monh. Will corals be ok that long with no water change? I may up my alk, since all the coral additions has it down to 7.5 but maintaing much better than a few weeks ago it was dropping like crazy! Sorry so many questions but I know you da man! Love ur channel!
Good video!! Excellent knowledge on this, I hope I never have to deal with this!
Hi great video. But the problem is.. My sand is brown but yet doesn't have those long stringy bubble thing as seen in dinoflagellates tanks. However mine can't be diatom as my tank is almost 6 months.. Not sure if u could help me identify it its Dino or jus normal brown algae. As my phosphate and nitrates are rather high at 0.25 and 20 respectively. So it's not too clean a tank.
It might still be diatoms. They feed off of silicates.....assume you are using RODI water. If so, do you have 0 TDS readings?
ReefBum yup tds 0.. I just bought a macro reactor recently too.. And aqua forest phosphate minus. Will try to lower my nitrates and phosphate first.. And see if its really dinoflagellates. If the brown does not subside den guess its dinoflagellates
Do your snails eat it? Trochus snails will mow diatoms down.
And if you can send a link with a picture to help with the ID.
ruclips.net/video/vJjTkIEoGcg/видео.html
Hope this link helps.
Such a head ache.. I recently noticed some Dino growing on my top rock the last few days. Time to figure out how to get rid of ot..
I had success siphoning them out and doing water changes at the same time. Left also lights off for 2 days. Skimmer working at all times and kalk dosing, as I normally do. The pH was around 8.2 - 8.3 during the time and I didn't feed the fish for like 4 days. There are many species of dinoflagellates and I know some are harder than others to get rid of. IMO they will eventually die off anyways and there is no need to dismantle the system. Can you imagine if you have another outbreak now? Are you going to keep taking that system a part because of dinos? Hummm.. I'm glad you are done with the problem.
Hey bro.. what brand of algae reactors did you display/use to bring about a fix ? Plz do tell, thanks !!
I used a Pax Bellum: reefbum.com/store-categories/pax-bellum/
dyno x worked for me....mine was all over everything 1k times worse than yours
after your experience with dinos from changing to liverock do you believe they exist in every reef tank? right niw do you still prefer dry rock or good old liverock?
I do not know the answer as to whether they exist in every tank but I can tell you for my new build I will be using live rock :)
@@ReefBum I have switch to some liverock I cured notice a great amount of differences in coral growth. What are your suggestion im dealing with very
small patches of dinos here and there?
@@regentsaquariums5692 Just make sure your nutrients are not bottomed out and use a UV at night if you have one.
Hey, thx for you info! I am using as natural as possible Bee Honey for my 250 Liters reef tank. First i had some nasty places and now 3 days later and dosing 1 thea spoon of honey a day the dino's seem to go away!! Greetings from the Netherlands
Day 5 and it's getting cloudy because of the Carbon (sugar in Honey). The Carbon activates Bacterial colonies and you will get a Bloom. Tomorrow there will be a 25% water change and then i expect that the cloudyness will go away.
I stopped with dosing Honey because of the bloom but also the purple slurry is gone and the tank looks stunning clean!
BaseBallBoysWeert WOW! Where did you get this info? I’m really interested and I’d like to research it for future use!?
A grueling journey!! I’ve got them in my 25 gallon and have been blowing them off the rocks and frequently changing the filter floss while feeding heavily. I feel like I’m starting to see some progress after about a week or so, I hope it keeps on this path! I figure if I keep removing them and give algae and bacteria space and time to grow, they’ll ultimately outcompete the Dino’s.
Crazy how they were very rare 15 years ago now they pop up pretty often with no explanation. What did we do differently back then 🤔?
I think a big part of it is using dry rock these days versus live rock. More biodiversity with live rock and less chance for dinos to take hold in a very low nutrient tank.
@@ReefBum crazy thing is its seems to be happening in the ocean more too and correlates well to increased CO2.
@@jokerjacknicholson2472 Interesting....didn't think about that.
Higher tank temperatures I read a forum that said most reefers used to run their tanks at around 82-83 degrees because of metal halides and chillers weren’t wide spread.
Anyway this guy talks about setting up a new tank when and using live rock from an existing tank. In the middle of it the old tank has a Dino outbreak and sure enough so does the new tank.
Difference was the new tank was running at 83 degrees and the outbreak went away in a week. The old tank at 78 degrees still had them....
@@ReefBum when you did the restart did you put the same coral and fish in the tank?
I missed the part where you checked nitrates and phosphates, or microscoped to know what type of dyno you have.
Yes, I did not ID them and that was a mistake.
Very nice video! I am at the point to reboot my system, these creepy dinos already killed all my SPS. My question is do those dipping method avoid to introduce dinos on the system?
Thank you!. I am not aware of any dips specifically to keep dinos out of a tank and I would be skeptical about it working since you are talking about a single cell pest that has survived since the beginning of time :) My advice is to have a lot of biodiversity in the tank (live rock for starters) some levels of nitrates and phosphates and use natural means for nutrient control.
I have cheato but no reactor and got it. It was only on one coral though weird. Hopefully it does not return. Good info for me though thanks!
You are welcome. Yes, very weird that you saw it in only one place.
Algae reactors add another "thing" to maintain and mess up leading to more parameter swings.
I actually find it much easier to maintain an algae reactor then a media reactor with GFO since it is less of a mess and you can ramp up or down the light cycle on an algae reactor to control nutrients. But you can achieve success using both methods.
I'm confused, what was the cause of the dinos? Sounds like you just treated the symptoms and not the root cause?
My belief now is that it was a lack of biodiversity since I started the tank with dry rock.
Thank you
Aqui resolvi os problemas com dinoflagelados usando filtro uv bem dimensionado, foi a primeira ação q fiz
What size arid reactor do yo run on your tank?
I run the N24
this is very interesting as nothing you did worked apart from when you ramped up your chaeto. if you watch inappropriate reefer's vids when he couldn't beat them he did exactly the same thing and his went fast too. from everything i have watch and read on dino's, the chaeto beats them. my tank was beating them, then i dumped in too much mysis shrimp and didn't rinse them for my 20gallon tank and the phos went up from 0.03 to 0.08 in 2 days and the dino's exploded and bloomed at the exact same time. INTERESTING.
Your problem is your OCD. Just relax, take a breath and let things run their course. We have all faced dinos when setting up a tank. You make things much worse by overreacting and I think restarting your tank was a huge mistake.
Trevor, thanks for watching and for chiming in. I encourage people like yourself to pass along their opinions, perspectives and experiences......feel free to provide more specifics on how you beat dinos to help others!
I had them really bad for about a month. I spot shot them with hydrogen peroxide as needed. I kept my calm and they started to go away. I kept up with my usual feeding, water changes and Ca Reactor habits. My rule is that whenever I am getting a strange algae in a newish tank that I shouldn't overreact because it usually makes things worse. Carry on as though nothing is happening bad and things will naturally clean up with the snails.
@@TheTrevor40 this is the right answer...quit screwing with shit.
Im dealing this now, I am winning the battle. I have reduced my light schedule to 7hrs, and a long dark period per day. I am using heavy GFO, as well as PhosGuard. I am over skimming, but also feeding heavily. I am about to setup again my chaeto reactor tonight. In hopes to defeat them for good. Mine arent as bad as yours but still nasty. They are a true pest, I've been reefing since the late 90's and two years ago was my first time with ich, and no dinos. Odd after all these years. I pinpointed the ich to a bad batch of crabs and snails from a local lfs that didnt keep its tanks clean and had an outbreak as well. I lost my purple tang ( sucks) as well as my tomeni tang and my clowns. Again sucks. I had quarantined and copper dosed but it didnt stop the ich. In this hobby you have to have a character made of steel or you will be easily defeated. Keep on reefing man.
Vibrant works
Do they Glow? Bioluminescence?
I do not know the answer to that :)
Awesome, I’m building my own chaeto reactor. Hopefully this fixes my dino outbreak aswell.
The dinos need something that can outcompete it so in my view growing macro algae is a good thing to try.
do they smell like a dead shellfish
The smell is not a good one :)
Pretty sure it wasn't the algea reactor that solved the problem. More likely it was simply time that solved it. Competing organisms finally came into balance. Also, I think he gave up on vibrant to quick as he went from success to cyano... what if he kept going wonder if it would have also killed the cyano. hmmm
At this point I agree with you on the point about the algae reactor. I believe UV along with higher nutrients is the way to solve a dinos problem.
for anyone watching this... don't go chasing the problem with chemicals. just feed heavy and stop doing water changes. add another fish if the system is understocked. chemicals won't fix the underlying cause
Exactly like a different poster, this answer is correct. These sterile tanks are the problem.
I gut fuckin Dino’s too!! I think it happened due to the extreme heatwave that we had here in SoCal. I tried blackout for 5 days, siphoning them out, frequent water changes, wet skimming, dry skimming, dosed tank with waste away, added a shit ton of copepods (tigger pods), now I’m doing another blackout. I’m still feeding fish every day, and now I’m using a drop in algae scrubber. Light for scrubber is on a reverse cycle from my tank lights so it’s not on 24 hours. I’m finally getting good growth in the scrubber, went back to regular skimming. I’m also using a poly filter pad ( I heard that works for getting rid of Dino’s, but I don’t know). I watched your video because I was thinking of dosing tank with peroxide. I used peroxide before on my pumps and some rock, but never in my tank. I’m scared to do that. I know bristleworms don’t like it, 🤣🤣😂🤣… I’m afraid of what it’ll do to my other inverts…I’m considering a complete breakdown too… start with new rock too…
why would you not want something that awesome in your tank?
Great video! I've been thinking about getting an algae reactor.
I appreciate that. No more GFO for me :)
Hello reef bum thanks. I needed this. Subbed
I beat them with increasing flow heavily
You did the total opposite of what you had to do but this is new to all of us, dinos happen from lack of biodiversity and low nutrients all I did was dose phosphate nitrate add pods and phyto and dirtied the tank once algae showed up dinos went away
Very good & interesting video. 👍
How many doses of hydrogen peroxide daily ?
All you needed was about 100 or more reef safe hermit crabs. The more the better. That algae and cyano would be gone overnight. Too bad pet stores don't rent them.
Turn up ya ATF, grow them there rather than the tank. I found Dino are part of life, just shift them out of the Display.
Based on my experience with many different Tanks 5 day blackout get the Job done once for all.
The key with a black out though is finding the source of the problem and correcting it....if not then the problematic algae will likely return
I been battling Dino’s for the last year. It won’t go away. I think it’s time to take down the tank :(
If you have the free floating type try UV, if you have not already done so.
@@ReefBum it is the floating type unfortunately it’s only a 15g I don’t have any room for that. Any other suggestions before I throw this tank out the window ? Lol
This video made me paranoid. 😞
Well, I hope some of the info is helpful in case you ever run into a problem. Here is wishing that doesn't happen!
dino x is the only thing that worked for me after doing
arent these guys suppose to glow blue when agitated?
Some brutal comments on here. Don't be put off making these videos. A good many find it useful.
You got beat boss
Your tank by the end of the video was just a chemical experiment bro..
This Dino’s are a cancer I don’t think u can get rid of them.
A few doses of Dino-x would have solved the problem
Zero fosfate is the reason of Dino’s
Get a microscope and check the type then base your plan of attack
clickbait. the dino's beat you.
👍
This reads sooo much like he's just trying to sell some product...
Kind of misleading, the dinos beat you!
You keep referring to Dino’s as algae. It’s a bacteria, not an algae.
Sorry, but it is not a bacteria, it is an algae also called as fire algae.
No it’s not it’s a eukaryote
So nothing actually was resolved here wow why even make this video
Very good & interesting video. 👍
Very good & interesting video. 👍