Email me and I'll send you shop info. We usually have beers after work 5:30pm. I hang around Monday, Wednesday & Friday nights... Tues & Thurs I visit my dad after work.
Thomas can you make any sense of this? I was getting 0V at my T3 fuel pump after doing an engine swap then noticed there’s no power at either position 30 slot where those two relays plug in. In a bizarre twist, the position 87 slot where the ECU relay plugs in IS hot. The fuel pump comes on if I jumper between the two position 87 slots. This makes no sense to me but I’ve never been good with the wiring. I would be so grateful if you could point me in the right direction 😩
87 can only be hot if 30 is present and the relay is closed/ on. ECM relay is on when key is on. Fuel pump relay is only on once the ecm receives a tach signal. Engine needs to be cranking or running for pump relay to stay on.
Thanks for replying! The left side 87 is hot with the key on and no relay installed. If i jump that 87 to the other with a wire the pump stays on. With the relays installed as normal the key doesn’t do the normal 2 second pump prime thing. i rebuilt the hall sender wiring because some of the insulation melted off when the last motor overheated. Grounding the middle connector on the hall wire gives me spark from the coil and causes the pump relay to click (but pump gets no power). Maybe some other hall wire is bad? I won’t keep bugging you all day if you chime in again
Thomas I just figured out this early 86 van had a “recall kit” installed by the dealership in 1987 or 88 to add a crankcase vent heater. if the dealer mechanic improperly added the kit the ECU relay socket pin 87 can remain wired to the ignition coil positive terminal when the kit called for that original connecting wire to be snipped off. Apparently after the recall is done the coil gets power from the ignition switch like later vans
The legend is back!!! We missed you thomas , hope that you are doing well !
Thank you for taking the time to post, Thomas! I really enjoy and learn from the content you post. Peace.
Good job Thomas👌👍😎
Glad Thomas to see you back in youtube.Well comeback and post more often.
It will take some time... baby steps. Thank you for still watching!
@@EXOVCDS Have a Good day ,your ex neighbour Tony
Tony! Sorry I didn't clue in sooner. How are things? Let me know the next time you're in town. Stop by for a beer after work!
@@EXOVCDS Am always in town except for winter that I fly South like a Snow Geese.
Email me and I'll send you shop info. We usually have beers after work 5:30pm. I hang around Monday, Wednesday & Friday nights... Tues & Thurs I visit my dad after work.
like de portugal 4ever
Are you back now?!
I wish. Just posting to make sure YT doesn't delete the channel. Thank you for watching!
can you still get parts new? and also parts for any other car I get shown 0 stock all the time .
Yes, but definitely harder to find these days.
And its that easy , nice one Thomas. 👍
Thomas can you make any sense of this? I was getting 0V at my T3 fuel pump after doing an engine swap then noticed there’s no power at either position 30 slot where those two relays plug in. In a bizarre twist, the position 87 slot where the ECU relay plugs in IS hot. The fuel pump comes on if I jumper between the two position 87 slots. This makes no sense to me but I’ve never been good with the wiring. I would be so grateful if you could point me in the right direction 😩
87 can only be hot if 30 is present and the relay is closed/ on.
ECM relay is on when key is on. Fuel pump relay is only on once the ecm receives a tach signal. Engine needs to be cranking or running for pump relay to stay on.
Thanks for replying! The left side 87 is hot with the key on and no relay installed. If i jump that 87 to the other with a wire the pump stays on. With the relays installed as normal the key doesn’t do the normal 2 second pump prime thing. i rebuilt the hall sender wiring because some of the insulation melted off when the last motor overheated. Grounding the middle connector on the hall wire gives me spark from the coil and causes the pump relay to click (but pump gets no power). Maybe some other hall wire is bad? I won’t keep bugging you all day if you chime in again
Thomas I just figured out this early 86 van had a “recall kit” installed by the dealership in 1987 or 88 to add a crankcase vent heater.
if the dealer mechanic improperly added the kit the ECU relay socket pin 87 can remain wired to the ignition coil positive terminal when the kit called for that original connecting wire to be snipped off.
Apparently after the recall is done the coil gets power from the ignition switch like later vans