Your videos of actual machining are awsome, no doubt. But when you ad these, that explains your thoughs and reasonings behind why you do what you do is what makes this channel stand out! Knowledge like what you show us here is nowhere else to be found. Your style of explaining is also really good, and it's easy to follow allong. So please keep making these kind of videos as well!
Keep 'em coming man, tips like these from someone with your experience is solid gold. Them being easier for you to film is just icing on the cake, so now everyone wins.
Another great video. I feel as though I've narrowed down my collection of tools similar to yours. Good to know someone else has had similar experience. I can really relate to working on expensive parts. It's not always about how fast.. but how consistently what you are using can give the best results!
Yes, this was a very informative video. You reasons for using particular tools are clear and understandable. Others may have different reasons for using different tools, but these work for you and that is valuable information. Thanks Peter!
The company i work for in Scotland is looking to get a Nakamura NTXR 300 or a JX 250. Tooling is going to be very important for these type of machines. Im nervous about the cost just as an emplyee 😂😂 this video helps. Thank you
Thanks for that explanation video. It was very interesting to hear your thoughts and reasoning. I was especially impressed by the not-so-obvious properties like the support a holder gives to the insert, and the deflection downwards of the silent bar. So yes, please also make such videos (in addition to the traditional style). I would also be interested in your specific tool selection for the operations on the work pieces (and not only such general overviews).
Another great vid, thanks Peter. I’ve always enjoyed the ones where you’re designing custom gauging setups but I guess those are quite job specific things and a bit difficult to do if you’re not currently running the job. Anyway thanks again and I hope these aren’t holding up your chip conveyer repairs too much!
please keep the tooling videos coming , such an interesting subject. My main learning from this video , -low clearance on the back of the insert scuffs your finish with rubbing chips . Never even thought about that great tip. Although now im going to have to buy some pointy tools with less cutting edges ( im so cheap :) )
Very interesting Peter, I’m a home machinist and the variety of your videos is really refreshing. Particularly interested to hear your comments of some tool geometries “ pulling in” to the job. Personally speaking I’d be very interested of further videos in this style.
This is super helpful - anything to narrow down the bewildering array of choices. I think @Edge Precision your machine has 72 tools or more; what do you think the absolute minimum you would be able to get away with (on most jobs you do - mill/turn) ? [Some of these machines and much smaller 'Sisters" come standard with 20 tools on a Capto C6 type J200 - then 36 then 72. ] With the flash tooling you can have 3 (turning) tools per holder by indexing the milling spindle; not sure if that's overloaded or if they are practical and rigid and have easily achievable sufficient clearances without losing your marbles. ]. Interested in your experiences in the time savings and practicality (for the type of work you do) of high capacity tool magazine vs. something in the 20 to 36 tool capacity range ? : Seems you get a LOT out of your pretty massive tool magazine. (Maybe something for a quick future video ~ your "Tool strategy " for your machine or how you typically divide things up. ).
Tooling is very expensive, especially big Capto items. 1 of those boring bars = 40-50 BT30 tool holders....... In any field good technicians need great tools. Great video!
We use CNMG 432 for roughing DNMG 432 for finishing, these cover 80% of all turning we do. We are a production shop with about 150 employees, with an even split of mills and lathes.
Hi , at my current workplace we use TNMG and TCMT for many things i.d. and o.d. rough and finish , reliefs and all that , i'm still sceptical but they do work . I guess the reasoning for them was the 3/6 sides that are usable in the same holder , vs the 2/4 edges on a DCMT - CNMG configuration . My favourite style is DNMG it's good enough for everything , except heavy facing .
Great vid! Sad to see you still struggle with your arm after the car crash though. I love watching odd jobs, especially those that require special/purpose made one-off tools. Maybe an idea for another tool vid?
Thanks for sharing would love to see more. Especially when you use a special tool for a job or just make it work with more standard tools. We dont all have a nice cnc grinder like you!! What would you estimate the cost of all the tools on your table?
The boring bars on the table are the high cost items. Just them by themselves. Maybe $6000-7000. The rest maybe another $3000. So let’s say around $10,000.
I have had problems with VBMT getting sucked into the work and couldn’t work out what was happening. I was taking too much of a cut and like you say, only good foe finishing.
WNMG is an ok insert if you just take small cuts, you have 6 corners for the same price, none left unused, but CNMG is the king for heavy cutting, superb support for the insert, no doubt. SL, Steady Line from SECO is a fine, only one screw to change head, and the new Coaomant has the same type quick shift head, max 30 second changeover.
everything with reasoning behind it is interesting! Yeah I will the same way on T shape insert not enough support the worst are dovetail cutter using T insert...
*Some* of the tools and adapters. I'm willing to bet what you show here, is worth more than my house! Some of these pieces are worth $10K - $50K retail. Nice review and explanation!
@@EdgePrecision I looked up a C8 adapter for fun. strongtooling.com/products/38642948 And then you got the the really long bars and mentioned some of them might cost as much as a Tool Room CNC machine. ...
@@DougHanchard not that much. I was referring to what most garage hobbyists run in their garage. Say a $2-3000 machines. But I would estimate the tooling on the bench to be worth around $10,000.
It’s really just a CNMG insert mounted so the shank sets at the 45 deg angle when the insert is in its normal turning position for the 80 deg tip. But I have also used this tool as a profiling tool with the B axis pointing straight down. This orientation works very well for roughing with its 40 deg lead angle. But it still can turn a 45 deg chamfer on the OD.
Seeing the different uses and reasoning behind them and your tool collection videos would be something easy to film and educational I say yes to those videos even sharpening and grinding of tools bits.. and is there a reason we don't see you use your other machines there at work or are they not in use as much?
I think the most succinct way to explain the difference between CNMG and CCGT style inserts is that with .N.. inserts the clearance comes from the holder, with .C.. (and others) the clearance comes from the insert geometry. .N.. usually have the advantage of having cutting sides on the bottom as well, doubling the use you'd get out of normal usage, for the same cost.
For inserts that take a lot of wear and abuse such as roughing inserts. The more cutting edges is a advantage. But for finishing inserts that last longer for me the insert geometry is more important that more cutting edges. Because cost is less a factor.
On those TNMG inserts that you received accidentally. Their toolholders don't have pockets. Look up an MTJNR. I use them for boring bars. I like using them better than CNMG.
Very useful movie. Can you tell us about milling tools and strategies witch works best on integrex? Personly I very like highfeed mills, but didn't see any of them on your movies. 🤔
Can you make a video about milling cutters and the explain how you choose different style and rake angle inserts if you have time to do it. Clearly you are experienced miller and I would be very interested about your opinion. Thank you.
I work just north of your shop. Would it be possible for me to come see it one day in person? Your videos are so great. I would love to meet you and see all this in person.
We use a WNMG for roughing in our HAAS SL30 just because of the extra tips. It sounds does different when cutting than a CNMG. Not sure if it’s chip clearance or what.
Myself I’m not so worried about extra tips as much as security in the tool. On this big machine if the insert fails I can ruin a $400 Sandvik head on the tool. This machine won’t even strain. It will just burn up the tool. You won’t eve hear it till major damage is done.
Hey Peter, while you are on this topic and you shoot a video touring your toolbox. I got an internship for school at a machine shop. I mainly want to see what brands you prefer since you’ve been in the trade for a while.
@@EdgePrecision A toolbox tour? Talk about a marathon :) I think you have the right idea with this video, Peter. A video which goes in depth on one particular topic is much more useful than one that covers many tools/topics broadly
A $50,000 bar would bar a very large one. The one I held up in this video costs around $3500. On one of the big Mazaks here they bought a 100mm X 1000mm long carbide silent bar. It was around $20,000.
With silent bars u change the game.U can make long bores with long overhang boring bars,something u could not do with conventional boring bars even if u strapped lead to them.It takes money to make lots of money
Thanks Peter, awesome video as usual. I see the hotel is progressing in Mexico. How far off from finishing is it? Will you be retiring hereafter? Cheers from Australia. Ps. love Mexico.
Because of the COVID and the political situation that that has caused. We had to pause the construction of the hotel in Mexico for now. When it’s ready my wife and I will be living there.
It can. I would on a small bench top machine use positive rake inserts. Negative rake inserts could put more force on the machine than it could handle.
That was an excellent explanation of your tooling and why. I would really like more videos like this. I didn't realise just how big that C8 coulping was until I saw it against the block tool (which I assume is 1.25") in that holder. Do you use full form threading inserts?
@@EdgePrecision You said you use full profile inserts when you can get them. I thought that being in Texas USA that you would be able to get anything in the catalog off the shelf, is that not the case?
@@MachinedComponents Yes we can get almost anything. But sometimes when things are in a rush or a special thread. I have to use a insert that isn’t a full profile.
If you are referring to a chip in the tool that a tool setter programs with offset information. Than the machine reads this when the tool is in the spindle. No this machine can’t do that.
Yes I have before on different machines. But not so far in the Integrex. If you don’t break the inserts roughing with the 80 deg point you can get more usage out of the same inserts.
Peter a question if I may... when you accept jobs for the very, very complicated parts (like the long Titanium part) does your client give drawings or do you receive a solid (cad) model that you can import into your software suite. It's been 15 or so years since I was near this stuff and am just wondering how the industry/client dialog might have changed.
In the case of that job they supplied a solid model and drawings. It is important to get the drawings because a solid model does not give you tolerance information. So even though the part is programmed from a model the drawing takes priority a far as dimensions and tolerance. This is why In one of my previous videos I showed checking the solid model. Just to make sure its drawn correctly for the machining. I prefer it to be modeled in the middle of the tolerances. Or to the nominal size.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you Peter! I am doing a marathon watching your vids on that part between rain and cutting grass here. I can only imagine the hours you put into that part! Just watched you hand tapping the small screw threads on it... nervous as heck watching the tap jiggle in your hand.
Just curious what's your monthly tooling costs (inserts and endmills) mines averaged about $1600, don't know if that's good or bad. Cutting mainly aluminium, mild and tool steel. Nothing fancy like yourself. P.s glad your back to full health
It varies depending on the jobs. It’s been as high as say $10,000 and as low as nothing. I would have to add up the whole year and divide by 12 to get an average. Short answer is I don’t know. To give you an example. The big bar I show in this video. I bought two of them for a job. It was $7500.00 for them (they come in there own aluminum cases) and that was just part of the tooling for that job!
@@EdgePrecision I know been a job shop doing 1 offs it just depends on what wotk comes in for the designers. I'll not compine with my tooling spend then haha.
Are you able to offset your Milling tools in Y if your tools were to be off center? Im running into that issue right now. For some reason, i can offset my Turning tools in Y, but not Milling tools....
To offset milling operations in the Y axis I would put them on a different fixture offset. For example run your turning on G54 and Tor milling on G55. I often do this as well with milling work on the face on one offset and milling work on the OD on a different offset.
Could you do some programming on fusion 360 I'm kinda thinking about an I200 and I see that they have post processors for mazak I've only run my 30 year old haas and I want to get into some integrex work
I don’t have a proper post for the Mazak Integrex in Fusion. So I can’t demonstrate using Fusion for that machine. If you are going to spend the money on a i200 machine consider buying a proper cam software program matched to that machine. If you are going to do mostly just turning and 4-5 axis position milling. Fusion might be OK. But for me the simulation isn’t nearly good enough for this kind of equipment. You really need a proper simulation to avoid collisions. On the machine you mention you could also use the Mazatrol to do a lot of the work.
@@EdgePrecision But of course my friend :) I understand that it is a fairly substantial re & re to fix as per your description. Still, It is a stark contrast in technology to see a shovel in play. Regards, C
No that’s not what I said. If you repeat the same cuts you did to come up to dimension it will absolutely repeat to the same offset. Baring any insert wear. The thing is these bars especially the long ones require spring passes if you are holding close tolerances. So I have found it’s better not to try to take all you finish cut in one pass. With a plain steel bar this stragity won’t work. If you take a spring pass with no change they will often chatter. But with these silent bars that isn’t as big a problem. This would not be possible at say a 10-1 overhang on a Un dampened bar. They really work. But require a different methodology.
Just before the virus, I think? Someone t-boned his truck... There's a few vids of him building a new flatbed for it, after he bought back the totalled vehicle...
WNMG was the insert you meant :) I always thought about switching to them because of the lower price per corner but in the other hand I'd need to replace 6 shank/boring tools. I totally missed that they don't use the knee lever mechanism of CNMG holders
I don't trust them to Index as precisely. The ones with the wedge lock only are using the two 120 degree plus the two 160 degree faces plus the pin to control the position/forces. It in my opinion isn't secure enough. Just one busted insert or hard feed/hit (And it will happen) will destroy the accuracy of the tool. For me it isn't worth the supposed two extra cutting edges. I have some very small boring bars that use the positive version of this insert. This may be OK because of the small cutting forces. But even still this isn't my favorite insert shape.
@@EdgePrecision For small bores (starting at 10mm) I like CCMTs and if the bores are a bit larger DCMTs also do a good job. PS: For grooving Paul Horn is the goto in Germany - not sure how present they are in the US. But my grooves are not as serious as the ones you do :)
When I said small bars I was referring to my smallest ITS boring head bars (Around .350-.250" bore). All other small bars on the Mazak I use CCMT inserts. I do have some Horn tools mostly milling ones though. I like their tools, they work good.
Funny how I spend 8+hours a day doing this and to relax when I get home I sit and watch someone else do it.
Ikr? 😂
Maybe you chose the right job then?
I do the same thing.
For real..
Same
A video like this on drills, end mills or other milling tools would be great.
"Ditto" :-)
🍿🍿🍿
Your videos of actual machining are awsome, no doubt. But when you ad these, that explains your thoughs and reasonings behind why you do what you do is what makes this channel stand out! Knowledge like what you show us here is nowhere else to be found. Your style of explaining is also really good, and it's easy to follow allong.
So please keep making these kind of videos as well!
This subject has been something I’ve always been interested in! I love Capto tooling and your collection of turning tools!!
Im 23 this year and i will be managing my own integrex soon. Without you i wouldnt even be the person i am today. Thank you so much for your videos :)
Thanks CY! I'm glad I could be of some help.
Keep 'em coming man, tips like these from someone with your experience is solid gold.
Them being easier for you to film is just icing on the cake, so now everyone wins.
Another great video. I feel as though I've narrowed down my collection of tools similar to yours. Good to know someone else has had similar experience. I can really relate to working on expensive parts. It's not always about how fast.. but how consistently what you are using can give the best results!
Videos like this are definitely of interest to me. It's a challenge to find good content on this topic that I trust!
Thanks Peter, another great video, Yes, please talk more about tooling and your reasoning behind it when you can.
Very interesting, especially the reasoning behind it. Thanks.
I really enjoyed listening to you explain all of your reasoning. Please make more
Yes, this was a very informative video. You reasons for using particular tools are clear and understandable. Others may have different reasons for using different tools, but these work for you and that is valuable information. Thanks Peter!
Many thanks for this very interesting video. Yes please, for more videos on tooling. Keep safe, kind regards, and greetings from Africa.
Thank you and thanks some more. Your level of knowledge and sharing with us plebs.. what do they say? Ah yeah, Priceless. Much gratitude kind sir
Thanks Peter, I found this video useful. Tooling is such a broad topic.
Also if you want to make more like this I'm in; I don't own anything like a Mazak but hearing your take on what works to make a living is interesting.
The company i work for in Scotland is looking to get a Nakamura NTXR 300 or a JX 250. Tooling is going to be very important for these type of machines. Im nervous about the cost just as an emplyee 😂😂 this video helps. Thank you
Thanks for that explanation video. It was very interesting to hear your thoughts and reasoning. I was especially impressed by the not-so-obvious properties like the support a holder gives to the insert, and the deflection downwards of the silent bar. So yes, please also make such videos (in addition to the traditional style). I would also be interested in your specific tool selection for the operations on the work pieces (and not only such general overviews).
I find it very interesting. Thank you once again for sharing your time and hard earned experience with us!
Another great vid, thanks Peter. I’ve always enjoyed the ones where you’re designing custom gauging setups but I guess those are quite job specific things and a bit difficult to do if you’re not currently running the job. Anyway thanks again and I hope these aren’t holding up your chip conveyer repairs too much!
please keep the tooling videos coming , such an interesting subject. My main learning from this video , -low clearance on the back of the insert scuffs your finish with rubbing chips . Never even thought about that great tip. Although now im going to have to buy some pointy tools with less cutting edges ( im so cheap :) )
Very interesting Peter, I’m a home machinist and the variety of your videos is really refreshing. Particularly interested to hear your comments of some tool geometries “ pulling in” to the job. Personally speaking I’d be very interested of further videos in this style.
very good video..thanks for your time
Thanks Tr Precision Machine!
Thanks for this video, i like seeing the tooling other machinists use and why the use it. I would like to see a video on what milling tooling you use
Excellent info. I'm tooling up a new lathe and had a hard time justifying D inserts. Priceless information from experience.
As an integrex guy, you're hitting on all 8 here. As always.
good video, I really like this video, I am always interested in tooling choices, I get a lot out of it for my own work, thank you
Interesting! I would definitely like to see more videos on other types of tooling
Looking forward to more videos like this!
I like to rough turn with the DNMG inserts on the 120deg side man those things will eat it up.
Away from chuck?
This is super helpful - anything to narrow down the bewildering array of choices. I think @Edge Precision your machine has 72 tools or more; what do you think the absolute minimum you would be able to get away with (on most jobs you do - mill/turn) ?
[Some of these machines and much smaller 'Sisters" come standard with 20 tools on a Capto C6 type J200 - then 36 then 72. ] With the flash tooling you can have 3 (turning) tools per holder by indexing the milling spindle; not sure if that's overloaded or if they are practical and rigid and have easily achievable sufficient clearances without losing your marbles. ]. Interested in your experiences in the time savings and practicality (for the type of work you do) of high capacity tool magazine vs. something in the 20 to 36 tool capacity range ? : Seems you get a LOT out of your pretty massive tool magazine. (Maybe something for a quick future video ~ your "Tool strategy " for your machine or how you typically divide things up. ).
Tooling is very expensive, especially big Capto items. 1 of those boring bars = 40-50 BT30 tool holders....... In any field good technicians need great tools. Great video!
We use CNMG 432 for roughing DNMG 432 for finishing, these cover 80% of all turning we do. We are a production shop with about 150 employees, with an even split of mills and lathes.
I like this "how I do it" and "why I do it the way I do it" :).
Hi , at my current workplace we use TNMG and TCMT for many things i.d. and o.d. rough and finish , reliefs and all that , i'm still sceptical but they do work . I guess the reasoning for them was the 3/6 sides that are usable in the same holder , vs the 2/4 edges on a DCMT - CNMG configuration . My favourite style is DNMG it's good enough for everything , except heavy facing .
Great vid! Sad to see you still struggle with your arm after the car crash though. I love watching odd jobs, especially those that require special/purpose made one-off tools. Maybe an idea for another tool vid?
Always interested Peter! Thanks
Thanks for sharing would love to see more. Especially when you use a special tool for a job or just make it work with more standard tools. We dont all have a nice cnc grinder like you!! What would you estimate the cost of all the tools on your table?
The boring bars on the table are the high cost items. Just them by themselves. Maybe $6000-7000. The rest maybe another $3000. So let’s say around $10,000.
Wow! What a expense. But to get that finish it's worth every penny I am sure
I have had problems with VBMT getting sucked into the work and couldn’t work out what was happening. I was taking too much of a cut and like you say, only good foe finishing.
WNMG is an ok insert if you just take small cuts, you have 6 corners for the same price, none left unused, but CNMG is the king for heavy cutting, superb support for the insert, no doubt.
SL, Steady Line from SECO is a fine, only one screw to change head, and the new Coaomant has the same type quick shift head, max 30 second changeover.
everything with reasoning behind it is interesting! Yeah I will the same way on T shape insert not enough support the worst are dovetail cutter using T insert...
*Some* of the tools and adapters.
I'm willing to bet what you show here, is worth more than my house!
Some of these pieces are worth $10K - $50K retail.
Nice review and explanation!
Not quite that much but I would say around $10,000.
@@EdgePrecision I looked up a C8 adapter for fun.
strongtooling.com/products/38642948
And then you got the the really long bars and mentioned some of them might cost as much as a Tool Room CNC machine. ...
@@DougHanchard not that much. I was referring to what most garage hobbyists run in their garage. Say a $2-3000 machines. But I would estimate the tooling on the bench to be worth around $10,000.
Would love to see more about the turning tool you use when you turn the B axis over 45 degrees.
It’s really just a CNMG insert mounted so the shank sets at the 45 deg angle when the insert is in its normal turning position for the 80 deg tip. But I have also used this tool as a profiling tool with the B axis pointing straight down. This orientation works very well for roughing with its 40 deg lead angle. But it still can turn a 45 deg chamfer on the OD.
Thanks Peter.
Seeing the different uses and reasoning behind them and your tool collection videos would be something easy to film and educational I say yes to those videos even sharpening and grinding of tools bits.. and is there a reason we don't see you use your other machines there at work or are they not in use as much?
I'll watch anything you put up.
I think the most succinct way to explain the difference between CNMG and CCGT style inserts is that with .N.. inserts the clearance comes from the holder, with .C.. (and others) the clearance comes from the insert geometry. .N.. usually have the advantage of having cutting sides on the bottom as well, doubling the use you'd get out of normal usage, for the same cost.
For inserts that take a lot of wear and abuse such as roughing inserts. The more cutting edges is a advantage. But for finishing inserts that last longer for me the insert geometry is more important that more cutting edges. Because cost is less a factor.
On those TNMG inserts that you received accidentally. Their toolholders don't have pockets. Look up an MTJNR. I use them for boring bars. I like using them better than CNMG.
Very useful movie. Can you tell us about milling tools and strategies witch works best on integrex?
Personly I very like highfeed mills, but didn't see any of them on your movies. 🤔
The Anvil videos I use highfeed mills.
Can you make a video about milling cutters and the explain how you choose different style and rake angle inserts if you have time to do it. Clearly you are experienced miller and I would be very interested about your opinion.
Thank you.
This is great video to see!
I work just north of your shop. Would it be possible for me to come see it one day in person? Your videos are so great. I would love to meet you and see all this in person.
Yes if you like.
@@EdgePrecision how should I contact you to set this up. I imagine you don’t want your personal info out here.
@@adammixon9833 message me on Instagram. My Instagram is Peter L Stanton.
Capto is freaking awesome!
Great video
That was interesting thank you.
We use a WNMG for roughing in our HAAS SL30 just because of the extra tips. It sounds does different when cutting than a CNMG. Not sure if it’s chip clearance or what.
Myself I’m not so worried about extra tips as much as security in the tool. On this big machine if the insert fails I can ruin a $400 Sandvik head on the tool. This machine won’t even strain. It will just burn up the tool. You won’t eve hear it till major damage is done.
Wow. Good information
Good info.
What about insert mill tooling.
Also, I'm curious why you don't program chamfers?
Hey Peter, while you are on this topic and you shoot a video touring your toolbox. I got an internship for school at a machine shop. I mainly want to see what brands you prefer since you’ve been in the trade for a while.
Are you referring to measuring tools?
@@EdgePrecision yes. And also any other tools such as dead blows, hex set etc.
@@elcuhhh8761 OK so pretty much everything.
@@EdgePrecision A toolbox tour? Talk about a marathon :) I think you have the right idea with this video, Peter. A video which goes in depth on one particular topic is much more useful than one that covers many tools/topics broadly
@@93Martin I know right. I’m interested in what he has, in what appears to be a Kennedy toolbox on the corner of the video
$50K silent bars are the norm in oilfield shops. Another shop local uses them for landing gear. I balked at a $2K one lol.
A $50,000 bar would bar a very large one. The one I held up in this video costs around $3500. On one of the big Mazaks here they bought a 100mm X 1000mm long carbide silent bar. It was around $20,000.
Very interesting, thanks.
With silent bars u change the game.U can make long bores with long overhang boring bars,something u could not do with conventional boring bars even if u strapped lead to them.It takes money to make lots of money
Thanks Peter, awesome video as usual. I see the hotel is progressing in Mexico. How far off from finishing is it? Will you be retiring hereafter?
Cheers from Australia.
Ps. love Mexico.
Because of the COVID and the political situation that that has caused. We had to pause the construction of the hotel in Mexico for now. When it’s ready my wife and I will be living there.
Peter just a thought when showing incerts use a white piece of paper for a background .👍
Yes I didn’t really prep for this. Next time I will keep that in mind. Thanks!
Does the material type to be cut & machines cutting power also determine the insert shape to be used?
Ex: Mild Steel 1045
It can. I would on a small bench top machine use positive rake inserts. Negative rake inserts could put more force on the machine than it could handle.
I watch Cutting Edge Precision, Abom79, Joe P., Keith Fenner, so you are in good company.
That was an excellent explanation of your tooling and why. I would really like more videos like this. I didn't realise just how big that C8 coulping was until I saw it against the block tool (which I assume is 1.25") in that holder. Do you use full form threading inserts?
The treading inserts I use are full profile if I can get them.
@@EdgePrecision You said you use full profile inserts when you can get them. I thought that being in Texas USA that you would be able to get anything in the catalog off the shelf, is that not the case?
@@MachinedComponents Yes we can get almost anything. But sometimes when things are in a rush or a special thread. I have to use a insert that isn’t a full profile.
Is this good for manual lathe? I keep getting inserts that dont friggen work.
Great video 👍 Some companies have built in software chip control would that be do able on the mazak.
If you are referring to a chip in the tool that a tool setter programs with offset information. Than the machine reads this when the tool is in the spindle. No this machine can’t do that.
@@EdgePrecision I think this is a software tool LFV
ruclips.net/video/_OGsYd2GmBA/видео.html
@@EdgePrecision This link is more visual
ruclips.net/video/K3muc2pd_7s/видео.html
Do you ever use the obtuse corner of the CNMG? The video was very interesting!
Yes I have before on different machines. But not so far in the Integrex. If you don’t break the inserts roughing with the 80 deg point you can get more usage out of the same inserts.
Yes
Peter a question if I may... when you accept jobs for the very, very complicated parts (like the long Titanium part) does your client give drawings or do you receive a solid (cad) model that you can import into your software suite. It's been 15 or so years since I was near this stuff and am just wondering how the industry/client dialog might have changed.
In the case of that job they supplied a solid model and drawings. It is important to get the drawings because a solid model does not give you tolerance information. So even though the part is programmed from a model the drawing takes priority a far as dimensions and tolerance. This is why In one of my previous videos I showed checking the solid model. Just to make sure its drawn correctly for the machining. I prefer it to be modeled in the middle of the tolerances. Or to the nominal size.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you Peter! I am doing a marathon watching your vids on that part between rain and cutting grass here. I can only imagine the hours you put into that part! Just watched you hand tapping the small screw threads on it... nervous as heck watching the tap jiggle in your hand.
Sometimes when reviewing the video clips I even get nervous. And I did the tapping!
7:45 Hey hey hey, enough with the personal attacks 😂
First ;)
Greetings from Poland ;)
👍 Nocna zmiana? 😂
@@MrLogicsys zjechałem na bazę z drugiej zmiany i włączyłem komputer 😉
Just curious what's your monthly tooling costs (inserts and endmills) mines averaged about $1600, don't know if that's good or bad. Cutting mainly aluminium, mild and tool steel. Nothing fancy like yourself. P.s glad your back to full health
It varies depending on the jobs. It’s been as high as say $10,000 and as low as nothing. I would have to add up the whole year and divide by 12 to get an average. Short answer is I don’t know. To give you an example. The big bar I show in this video. I bought two of them for a job. It was $7500.00 for them (they come in there own aluminum cases) and that was just part of the tooling for that job!
@@EdgePrecision I know been a job shop doing 1 offs it just depends on what wotk comes in for the designers. I'll not compine with my tooling spend then haha.
Peter we could share tool crib haha.
Are you able to offset your Milling tools in Y if your tools were to be off center? Im running into that issue right now. For some reason, i can offset my Turning tools in Y, but not Milling tools....
To offset milling operations in the Y axis I would put them on a different fixture offset. For example run your turning on G54 and Tor milling on G55. I often do this as well with milling work on the face on one offset and milling work on the OD on a different offset.
Could you do some programming on fusion 360 I'm kinda thinking about an I200 and I see that they have post processors for mazak I've only run my 30 year old haas and I want to get into some integrex work
I don’t have a proper post for the Mazak Integrex in Fusion. So I can’t demonstrate using Fusion for that machine. If you are going to spend the money on a i200 machine consider buying a proper cam software program matched to that machine. If you are going to do mostly just turning and 4-5 axis position milling. Fusion might be OK. But for me the simulation isn’t nearly good enough for this kind of equipment. You really need a proper simulation to avoid collisions. On the machine you mention you could also use the Mazatrol to do a lot of the work.
How about W style inserts?
At the end of the video I talk about them.
@@EdgePrecision posted the comment halfway through the video, just got to that.
One tool you have been using lately that you didn't cover,.... it has a induction hardened steel tip and a wooden shank.
Are you referring to the chip shovel?
@@EdgePrecision But of course my friend :) I understand that it is a fairly substantial re & re to fix as per your description.
Still, It is a stark contrast in technology to see a shovel in play. Regards, C
So silent bars have repeatability issues.
No that’s not what I said. If you repeat the same cuts you did to come up to dimension it will absolutely repeat to the same offset. Baring any insert wear. The thing is these bars especially the long ones require spring passes if you are holding close tolerances. So I have found it’s better not to try to take all you finish cut in one pass. With a plain steel bar this stragity won’t work. If you take a spring pass with no change they will often chatter. But with these silent bars that isn’t as big a problem. This would not be possible at say a 10-1 overhang on a Un dampened bar. They really work. But require a different methodology.
@@EdgePrecision ahhh ok. I got ya. Thanks for clarifying that.
I spent bout 2mill on capto holders deff worth it lol
and i think inserts are expensive alone
Car accident? I haven't been watching all your videos be was this resent?
Just before the virus, I think? Someone t-boned his truck... There's a few vids of him building a new flatbed for it, after he bought back the totalled vehicle...
Hiya
WNMG was the insert you meant :)
I always thought about switching to them because of the lower price per corner but in the other hand I'd need to replace 6 shank/boring tools.
I totally missed that they don't use the knee lever mechanism of CNMG holders
I don't trust them to Index as precisely. The ones with the wedge lock only are using the two 120 degree plus the two 160 degree faces plus the pin to control the position/forces. It in my opinion isn't secure enough. Just one busted insert or hard feed/hit (And it will happen) will destroy the accuracy of the tool. For me it isn't worth the supposed two extra cutting edges. I have some very small boring bars that use the positive version of this insert. This may be OK because of the small cutting forces. But even still this isn't my favorite insert shape.
@@EdgePrecision For small bores (starting at 10mm) I like CCMTs and if the bores are a bit larger DCMTs also do a good job.
PS: For grooving Paul Horn is the goto in Germany - not sure how present they are in the US. But my grooves are not as serious as the ones you do :)
When I said small bars I was referring to my smallest ITS boring head bars (Around .350-.250" bore). All other small bars on the Mazak I use CCMT inserts. I do have some Horn tools mostly milling ones though. I like their tools, they work good.
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