Gigantic Cookie Slab Coffee Table - Sequoia
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- Опубликовано: 24 апр 2019
- I sell selected items on Etsy: creatoriq.cc/3KJkieJ
I made a live edge coffee table out of an sequoia (or redwood) cookie slab. Read more about this wood here: www.wood-database.com/redwood/
More about the power tools and materials I use: bit.ly/401tKyv
Welcome to my woodworking channel. I am passionate about taking the most wonderful woods mother nature created and turning them into beautiful objects of day to day use. This is not a DIY channel about teaching the woodworking craft, showing you new and nifty techniques about how to build wooden objects or anything alike. It’s about celebrating nature’s beauty and providing inspiration for projects of your own.
Thanks for your support!
Alternative wood names: Redwood, Sequoia, Coast Redwood, California Redwood, Vavona, Burl, Mammutbaum, Secoyas 
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stunning piece of wood. I like that you intentionally left the cracks on the edge.
Thanks :D
It is beautiful!!
Thanks 🙏
Un trabajo digno de un artista..........Felicitaciones Javi por tan bello trabajo..........que lo disfruten y seguro que va a embellecer tu casa. Abrazo grande de EMV.
You turned an amazing piece of wood into a well preserved work of art. Well done taking your time with the piece. I'm a big fan.
Wow, thank you Jonah. Your words made my day. Isn‘t mother natur just amazing? Take care...
Awesome vid love the channel I think you deserve at least 1million subs keep up the great work
Thank you for your kind words, glad you liked it... 😀😀
Nice
Thanks 😊
♥️
❤️ 😁
Looks great. Almost could've cut in half a d made two. The top looks almost too thick.
Thanks Jo. I know what you mean, and I did consider it, but I was afraid that the slab would break apart, because that wood is rather soft. Also, given it’s size (110cm diameter), I think the thickness works.
I have an old eastern red cedar that’s dying. The base is probably 5 times or more larger than that slab. I’m wondering if I can saw a few end grain slabs off of it I hate to see it dying but I can’t wait to see what the grain looks like.
5 times the size?!? Holy smokes! That sounds amazing! If the tree is dying, I would cut it rather sooner than later, else the wood will rot away. Cedar is rather soft, so the rotting will be pretty fast. Cutting a slab of that size and then working with it is no small feat. If you have no experience in cutting trees I would recommend you look for a sawmill that can do this for you. Same for drying the slabs and then obviously creating the table. That sounds like an AWESOME project!
@@Woodensoul Thanks! I have contacted a sawmill close to me and I think you’re right, I need to cut it down while it’s still green. It’s freakishly huge. Probably the largest eastern red cedar in town.
@@DrBlues76 Send pictures - I love huge trees!
OMG I’m in love with your cookie slab coffee table. OUTSTANDING WORK!!!!! Do you have a website for your products? Awesome woodwork. 👍🏼🙋♀️🙂
Ahw, thank you so much ♥️🙏 Happy you liked it. Yes, I sell some tables on Etsy: etsy.me/3orQXch - actually, I might sell this particular table you commented soon, because my wife asked for a new one 😂
How much epoxy did it take to cover it?
Maybe 2 liters?
Love this. I am very new in this. Picked up my first Elm slab which is similar shape. It is cracking and checking. I was wondering at what point is it recommended to fill the cracks? I love how this turned out without filling them. Thanks in advanced.
Thanks for your kind words, really appreciate. You should only start filling once the slab is dry. That depends on when the tree was cut, how thick it is and how it was stored. Did they tell you it was dry when you bought it?
@@Woodensoul Thanks for the reply. I got it fresh cut (a week) in January at 28% moisture. We were suppose to get the pentacryl on within few days but had a hard time getting it locally ( Toronto) I stored it on my porch away from sun and rain. It is about 2-3 thick.
So now it is at 16 to 18%. I may have to wait a bit longer?
If I leave the cracks as you did will I risk more severe cracks? Also you think I should bring it into the house (23 celsius)
@@truevine7208 Ok, let's go step by step. If this is a fresh cut, there is no way your slab can be as dry already. How did you measure this? My instinct would be that you have 16-18% at the surface, but not inside the wood. If this was cut in January, and you want to process it soon, then you might want to get it kiln dried. I am sure you can find places where you can bring it and have it dried for not that much money. Afterwards, you should put the slab indeed inside, in your house, ideally where it will be at the end, and leave it for a couple of days, so it adopts to the temperature and humidity you have. Then you can look at the cracks and decide. It's possible some cracks will widen later on, that happened with my table too, thats not a biggie if they are not too deep.
@@Woodensoul Yes I measured with a moisture meter inside the cracks and checks. Again yesterday I tested and it varied from 14% to 16%. And in the past couple days that crack I was worried about is even deeper and bigger. So I thing epoxy is needed :)
What do you think an ideal moisture reading is for Elm?
@True Vine I fear you won't be able to use your slab anytime soon. The speed in which lumber dries is hard to calculate, but as a rule of thumb you can assume 1cm per year under decent circumstances. That means if your slab was cut in January 2020 and is 6cm thick (assumption), it will take at least 3 years (1cm from each side). Measuring moisture in the cracks with a moisture meter is no good - because the wood dries from the outside in, so outside will always appear drier than the inside is. Closing the cracks with epoxy won't help either. The forces are so strong, that it might just crack next to the epoxy, or even squish the epoxy out (both things happened to me). You will either have to buy a dry slab or have yours kiln dried. If you want to learn more about this, I can recommend this book: www.amazon.com/dp/B01FGP9964/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_atVGEbY789C83
Look great. I wish to work on my cedar slab (chainsaw cut) which is like yours but I don’t have a bench top planer, let alone a large one like yours. Do you advise using a hand electrical planer to even out the surface? Thanks.
Thanks for your kind words 🤩 I have a long and detailed step by step video showing how to do this with a hand planer and orbital sander: Create your cookie slab coffee table with (almost) no power tools: Step by step instructions
ruclips.net/video/qVlbgRKXt38/видео.html
Hi there. I’m making my first cookie slab table. I’m getting different opinions on how to finish it. I noticed you use epoxy, sand, then Rubio mono coat. Do you use epoxy first because the end grain would take multiple coats of the mono coat if you didn’t epoxy first?
Hi Jed. Exactly. End grain is super thirsty, hence I “seal” it with epoxy. If you check out the comments on this video (ruclips.net/video/G6dodWXnEvc/видео.html) you will find an entire thread where I walk Bryan through each step, that might be helpful...
Man this is beautiful! I just got my hands on a big sequoia slab for a dining table. Which Rubio Monocoat are you using? Is it the oil plus 2c in a specific shade? I’m hoping to get my sequoia to darken as much as yours did. Great work!
Thank you for your kind words, really glad you liked it 😁 I use mostly the Plus 2C pure, as I am a purist and would like to see mother nature’s work. So I used pure for this table. If you want your slab to darken as much, I recommend flooding it with epoxy resin. You can see the reasoning for this in this video: ruclips.net/video/miIwjI479_A/видео.html - you might want to do a quick trial in a scrap piece first, to see if you like the result... have fun!
@@Woodensoul thanks for the quick response! So, flooding will get it to darken even after sanding once it’s cured? I read that thread and it seems that’s the reasoning behind it. I have plenty of extra resin on hand so if that what you recommend I’ll definitely test it out on some scraps. Also, are you sanding most of the epoxy coat off and then coating with RM? Sorry for all the questions, just wanna make sure I get this right after spending a pretty penny on the slab.
@@kylesmith475 Sure thing - happy to share my experience. The steps are: Sanding with 80 grit paper, then flood the entire slab with epoxy, then sand the excess epoxy away with 80 grit, then continue with 120+ and at the end coat with RM. The epoxy will soak into the grain and darken the slab. If your slab has cracks and holes that you are filling with epoxy, you will see that effect on the places around the cracks. The wood soaks in the epoxy, and even after sanding, the area that was covered with epoxy will stay a little darker than the rest. The delicate step is when you sand the excess epoxy, because you have to make sure to not sand away too much (then all the epoxy is gone) but enough (so you expose the wood fibres). Redwood is a soft wood, hence it will soak in the epoxy pretty deep, so you have some wiggle room. But I definitively recommend practicing on a scrap piece first.
@@Woodensoul great, thanks so much for the detailed write up! Can’t wait to start!
@@kylesmith475 Sure thing - my pleasure. Have fun :D
hello wooden where did you get the still base for the table. did you had a local steal guy that males them! thank you!
You can buy these through Etsy. The link should be in the description...
not sure I understand the point of applying the epoxy sanding it then applying Rubio after that, how can the oil penetrate the wood with the epoxy, or did I miss something. Looks amazing by the way
The point of applying epoxy resin and sanding has two purposes: 1) end grain is extremely thirsty, that is it soaks in your coating immediately. You can follow this when I put oil on the backside, it soaks it in immediately. If you apply epoxy resin, the epoxy seals the end grain, so it can't soak in the coating as much as without epoxy. 2) it's hard to get end grain wood smooth, due to it, well, being end grain. it has a lot of structure in between the wood fibres. The epoxy closes this structure, allowing you to achieve a smoother surface. The reason the end coating works, is that Rubio is not oil. Rubio achieves the coating through submolecular binding, that is it binds with the upper layer of the surface. This works with wood, but also with epoxy. You can see this eg in this video (ruclips.net/video/WSdiYK3J-qY/видео.html), where the logo that is filled with black epoxy becomes shiny and nice, after coating with Rubio. So in sum, the epoxy coat on a cookie slab helps you make it smooth, coat it evenly and make it look nice. Does that explanation help?
What kind of brush do you use to clean up the edges?
It‘s a Metabo PE 12 175, with a plastic brush. I just realized I forgot to link it from the description, fill fix that soon...
That looks great! Which epoxy did you use exactly?
Thanks 👊🏼. At that time I used the fast curing epoxy from dipon.de
@@Woodensoul thanks, and how long did you wait between the two floodings?
Usually 24h, but I can’t remember in this case. Always stick to the instructions of your resin
Awesome creation! If I may, how long should I wait to work the sequoia after it is cut? Thank you.
Thank you Gianluca. I have a question showing step by step how to make your own cookie slab table, and at minute 4:25 I explain the question about wood drying. Let me know if you have any questions after watching this: ruclips.net/video/qVlbgRKXt38/видео.html
Just wondering what tape you have used to prevent the leaking... I have recently just had an expensive leak on a table I'm making
Where do you live (country)? I can check if the brand I use is sold there...
@@Woodensoul i got the same question, i live in Te Netherlands. Can you maybe check that for me? great video man!
I mostly use this one: kit.co/Wooden/other-materials/colorus-gaffa-tape. This should ship to Netherlands I think. It’s the cheapest I could find thst works. The adhesive is mediocre, but if you put a board below it and a cardboard in between, that should do the trick and be easier on the budget...
🥋👍😍
🤩🎉💪🏻
Hello,
Is there a current link from the table leg?
Sorry about that. I fixed the link. Here you go: etsy.me/2W19exW
How did you get the central area dark??
Hey Bill. I didn’t do anything special, it’s the natural color of the wood, brought to life using Rubio Monocoat Pure.
Awesome job! What are the dimensions?
Thank you. Dimensions are about 100cm diameter...
@@Woodensoul how about the thickness
About 10cm
How much prices
For what? The raw materials?
Soon as i saw saw Rubio Monocoat i got sick. Yuk. YOu could have used far better products (e.g Whittlewax from QLD in Australia). Best ever finish and very easy to use. Nice job though.
I don't know your mentioned coating but I do LOVE Rubio Monocoat and I won't apologize for it 😆