I have a 10 cm hole on a brick wall due to the air con tubes going out to a terrace , now we changed the ac units location and I need to repair it , I been neglecting it as I was unsure how to do it but this is sooo helpful , thank you so much !
Wow, you did an epic job. I liked how you used that rod/stick to line the mortar and caulked the pipe so that creators can come in. Now, I would have never thought that dish detergent would be used in concrete mix, but I will try it thanks to you.
There is absolutely no danger in using fairy liquid as a plasticiser for small jobs such as this. Fairy liquid does exactly what plastisicer does. This chap in the video is a definate professional and absolutely impossible to label as a cowboy. Keep the videos coming fella
Hi TheShagoi, the green liquid you asked about is, "Fairy Liquid" (brand name UK) and is used for washing dishes. It is a soapy liquid and helps to form a plaster-sizing effect. It helps the grains of sand slide over each other thus making the mortar more easy to work. I hope this is helpful Regards
Hi Ird9999, thanks for your comments and to answer your question. Generally the ex. plumbing works well. Some folk lag their waste pipies with foam sleeves. I personally haven't had any problems with mine even though in recent years we have had some severe cold spells, but they never froze up. They are a standard regulation for the UK....Hope this help :)
Hi, I assume the brick wall is a single skin that is without cavity. In the UK usually out buildings that have been converted into an extension to the main house have single skin brickwork. We usually batten or stud the wall with 2x2 and insulate with fiber glass wool and then cover with aluminum back sheeted plasterboard.
nice repair, but when you were chiseling that brick w/o safety glasses....you've got more balls than me. its a small thing, but i like to spray the old and new bricks with water before i apply mortar. seems it dries slower and the bond is better. nice work!
Hi snakeclaw, thanks for watchin the vid..In answer to your question about forming a new outlet hole above an old out let. There shouldn't be any problems as you see ,I had my soil stack moved to the side and so you should be able to do the same above. The bricks won't drop because they are tied in by bond...assuming it is a hole in simler proportions as mine... All the best and happy DIY'ing...
Hi 588158, in answer to your enquiry. It was washing up liquid I used, remember I did it with the DIY person in mind.....there are commercial products on the market and at most builders yards will sell them...any ways thanks for watching.
How did you cut the brick to fit the small pipe on the top replacement brick? How did the bricks change color, all but one, to match the other bricks in the wall?
This usually meets with our building regs. It sounds to me you have done an excellent job….the black board would have been felt or bitumen backed board to prevent damp passing through. If polythene sheet is applied you will need to allow the wall to breath or it will sweat and moisture will build up on the back and run down, or even eventually rot the wood… food for thought. Allow a gap at the bottom to allow air to move around the back. Regards..
I have a question for you. My house was built in 1963 and the inside drywall was bad...I removed it and to my surprise behind the insulation was just exposed brick. It looked like there used to be black tar board but it had deteriorated and crumbled away. How I repaired it was put styrofoam insulation board between the studs to cover bricks then insulation on top of that and sealed entire wall with plastic sheeting. Is this correct way to fix? Thank you!
thanks for the video, i need to repair a small (2-3 brick high) brick flower box wall, how much motor do i drop down to start, just a few heaps then tap the brick down to level?
I have a similar job to do on my Mothers house. After a new condensing boiler was installed several years ago, the muppets who did the job botched up reducing the flue hole from the original boiler, which had a large square flue outlet, compared to the new, quite small round outlet on the new boiler. They used the wrong style of brick, they are all over the place, not keyed in and the mortar is crumbling! What I can't grasp is how the final bricks are laid when there is only the mortar space left?! How do you ensure there is mortar all around them and that it stays put?
Hi PCnever, I actually have done a video of me repairing a small 5 brick high wall. In that tutorial I show you how to do the job(your type). Halfway through the tutorial I lay the bricks and show how much mortar to use at each stage. see link - Ive put it on the write up.. Hope you find it helpful!
Look I have worked in construction all my life, a little use of fairy in mortor has in my oppinion as in many others as well no serious effects...you can say the same about any plastersizers because AGAIN air is added by them to the mix. If we are going to be absalutly PERFECT then no added agent is good for mortor, the best way is the use of LIME...Look you cannot go arround labelling people cowboys when there are different oppinions on the subject....
Many thanks for watching the vid, best alround mix for most bricks is a 4 to 1 mix of 4 parts sand and 1 part cement. If you have very week bricks use a 5 or 6 to 1 ratio as the mix if to strong will cause spaulding
Hi, nice video. What is the green liquid you're mixing in the mortar? I couldn't catch the name. I'm in the USA and probably not familiar with the name anyhow. Is it detergent?
+Chris Longhurst I think you used that angle grinder on the straights didn't you? You showed it, but not using it. I think I could see the lines. Either way, it was super tidy. Great video Chris. Liked it.
Hey Chris, Good Video, very good,... also I have seen the use of dish detergent it works for grout bag in doing head joints as well,... I am in the states, could you please,.. try and speak a little more clearly taking the time for the rest of us who have properly killed the Kings English,...lol but great job mate !! I am looking forward to more of work, it is amazing how much different our American practices are from European, but both seem to work out well,... nicely done enjoyed it !
hi. trying to repair some loose bricks on our front garden wall but the mortar on our wall is rock hard. tried drilling and then chiselling but it isnt budging. can you suggest a solution. thanks
A job like this would be a day's work if that...So builders prices vary from London to the North. Materials are very little so if you got your own from any builders merchants or DIY place, you'd need a bag of sand i/2 bag cement and your bricks. In the staffordshire area builders would be charging a price from around £120-150 for labour per day!. Hope that has helped..
A job like this would be a day's work if that...So builders prices vary from London to the North. Materials are very little so if you got your own from any builders merchants or DIY place, you'd need a bag of sand i/2 bag cement and your bricks. In the staffordshire area builders would be charging a price from around £120-150 for labour per day!. Hope that has helped..
Hey thanks Emeraldthrone, thanks for the imput bud, and yeh, I will try to talk more clearly...glad I didn't use dialect lol. I will use a mic next time instead of trusting to the vid recorders mic which is naff..see soon!
Hah, perfect. Just what I needed to know. I've got to do a similar thing at my parents house, but only three bricks. Great tips on removal and adding the plastersizer to the mortar. Good one... Cheers!
G'day Chris I am wondering if you can do me a flavour, I removed my air conditional unit and left a hole which needs to fix up with brick work. I like your skill and your work. I don't know where about you Thank you Bob
Yea, it does and I'm going to try it. I have some bricks on my house that have just went to hell. So I'm going to try and replace one or two and see how it goes. What kind of drill was that? Looked pretty easy once he put those holes in.
Measuray Frank So your Dad showed you and not him? That's not fair. And as for me, I have other, more important skills involving my brain. I make enough money to just hire people like you to do the lowly grunt work. Of course I'm cheap so I try to do it myself first.
Na, it's a common practise amonst brickies fella...I done jobs over 30 years ago using w.u.l as a plastersiser and the mortor is as strong as it was when the jobs were done....dunna start the I am the building inspector and a pro....lol
Plastersizers are same based as detergents, Feb mix and the like- they all Aerate (bubbles in) the mortor creating a sliding effect on the sand granuals...most brickies on small jobs use washing up liqued. Small jobs like this don't need a professional plastersizer, it would cost to much. These are D.I.Y tips for small jobs helping people who are not in the trade. On large construction jobs the pastersizers are now pre added...your just trying to be a clever dickie
I have a 10 cm hole on a brick wall due to the air con tubes going out to a terrace , now we changed the ac units location and I need to repair it , I been neglecting it as I was unsure how to do it but this is sooo helpful , thank you so much !
Wow, you did an epic job. I liked how you used that rod/stick to line the mortar and caulked the pipe so that creators can come in. Now, I would have never thought that dish detergent would be used in concrete mix, but I will try it thanks to you.
There is absolutely no danger in using fairy liquid as a plasticiser for small jobs such as this. Fairy liquid does exactly what plastisicer does. This chap in the video is a definate professional and absolutely impossible to label as a cowboy. Keep the videos coming fella
Hi TheShagoi, the green liquid you asked about is, "Fairy Liquid" (brand name UK) and is used for washing dishes. It is a soapy liquid and helps to form a plaster-sizing effect. It helps the grains of sand slide over each other thus making the mortar more easy to work.
I hope this is helpful
Regards
Cheers Mrdavebrick for watching and for your input :)) Regarding the pipe, it was in it's original position- ie through the joint....
Cheers Chris, I had to replace two bricks that had gone soft near the water tap and 99% of the advice I took from this video.
+njuham Wow Thank you
Hi Ird9999, thanks for your comments and to answer your question. Generally the ex. plumbing works well. Some folk lag their waste pipies with foam sleeves. I personally haven't had any problems with mine even though in recent years we have had some severe cold spells, but they never froze up. They are a standard regulation for the UK....Hope this help :)
I'm getting ready to replace a couple of bricks, and this video was very helpful. Thanks for posting it!
Cheers:)
Hi, I assume the brick wall is a single skin that is without cavity. In the UK usually out buildings that have been converted into an extension to the main house have single skin brickwork. We usually batten or stud the wall with 2x2 and insulate with fiber glass wool and then cover with aluminum back sheeted plasterboard.
nice repair, but when you were chiseling that brick w/o safety glasses....you've got more balls than me. its a small thing, but i like to spray the old and new bricks with water before i apply mortar. seems it dries slower and the bond is better. nice work!
Thank you so much, really appreciate being able to watch your work.
Hi snakeclaw, thanks for watchin the vid..In answer to your question about forming a new outlet hole above an old out let. There shouldn't be any problems as you see ,I had my soil stack moved to the side and so you should be able to do the same above. The bricks won't drop because they are tied in by bond...assuming it is a hole in simler proportions as mine...
All the best and happy DIY'ing...
Hi 588158, in answer to your enquiry. It was washing up liquid I used, remember I did it with the DIY person in mind.....there are commercial products on the market and at most builders yards will sell them...any ways thanks for watching.
How did you cut the brick to fit the small pipe on the top replacement brick? How did the bricks change color, all but one, to match the other bricks in the wall?
I need to do it but on 1920 house I can't knock out 1920 bricks as they are solid as stone. Just filling couple of holes.
This usually meets with our building regs. It sounds to me you have done an excellent job….the black board would have been felt or bitumen backed board to prevent damp passing through. If polythene sheet is applied you will need to allow the wall to breath or it will sweat and moisture will build up on the back and run down, or even eventually rot the wood… food for thought. Allow a gap at the bottom to allow air to move around the back. Regards..
I have a question for you. My house was built in 1963 and the inside drywall was bad...I removed it and to my surprise behind the insulation was just exposed brick. It looked like there used to be black tar board but it had deteriorated and crumbled away. How I repaired it was put styrofoam insulation board between the studs to cover bricks then insulation on top of that and sealed entire wall with plastic sheeting. Is this correct way to fix? Thank you!
thanks for the video, i need to repair a small (2-3 brick high) brick flower box wall, how much motor do i drop down to start, just a few heaps then tap the brick down to level?
Great post, going to have my first attempt at that and this video helped alot
+jordan day Thank you and good luck
I have a similar job to do on my Mothers house. After a new condensing boiler was installed several years ago, the muppets who did the job botched up reducing the flue hole from the original boiler, which had a large square flue outlet, compared to the new, quite small round outlet on the new boiler. They used the wrong style of brick, they are all over the place, not keyed in and the mortar is crumbling!
What I can't grasp is how the final bricks are laid when there is only the mortar space left?! How do you ensure there is mortar all around them and that it stays put?
Was that washing liquid you added as a plasticizer or a commercial plasticizer?
Oh nice just never seen it been bricky for 15 years . I like the videos
Are you base in london Chris ? I defo need your help thanks
Hi PCnever, I actually have done a video of me repairing a small 5 brick high wall. In that tutorial I show you how to do the job(your type). Halfway through the tutorial I lay the bricks and show how much mortar to use at each stage. see link - Ive put it on the write up..
Hope you find it helpful!
thanks for uploading such a video sir Chris Longhurst
Nice example and well described. Great video.
Good work buddy. Keep up with the videos. They're really helpful
+TheBassBailey Thank you
Look I have worked in construction all my life, a little use of fairy in mortor has in my oppinion as in many others as well no serious effects...you can say the same about any plastersizers because AGAIN air is added by them to the mix. If we are going to be absalutly PERFECT then no added agent is good for mortor, the best way is the use of LIME...Look you cannot go arround labelling people cowboys when there are different oppinions on the subject....
Very nice. I have to fix the hole I put in the chimney stack in basement
great video. How much liquid soap did you add to the mix? It looked like a couple of drops. Thank you.
+John G Yes, little drop is sufficient
Nice demonstration. How come you never used the brick chisel attachment?
Easier the way I did it on vid-more control!!
When mixing motor for laying brick, what retro of cement to sand is the "Ideal" Thanks for a Great Video
Many thanks for watching the vid, best alround mix for most bricks is a 4 to 1 mix of 4 parts sand and 1 part cement. If you have very week bricks use a 5 or 6 to 1 ratio as the mix if to strong will cause spaulding
Thank You Chris, much obliged
Hi,
nice video. What is the green liquid you're mixing in the mortar? I couldn't catch the name. I'm in the USA and probably not familiar with the name anyhow. Is it detergent?
what is the mixture for the motar between the bricks? sand, cement & water? and what is the ratio please!
Thanks a lot.
Zack Tumlinson I used what the builders originally used (on the architects plan) 4 sand 1 cement- gently add water until workable..Trust that helps
you mention acid cleaning? could you do a video on that please
Good idea!!
Thank you for watching the vid and for taking the time to comment. In response to your simple comment, Er, no!! Do please explaine-
how did you get such a clean looking mortar removal? Did you use the angle grinder?
+jttierney1 Used me old drill.....and strusted mni bolster chisel..thanks for your interest..-:)
+Chris Longhurst I think you used that angle grinder on the straights didn't you? You showed it, but not using it. I think I could see the lines. Either way, it was super tidy. Great video Chris. Liked it.
+Howard Gilmour Decided not to found the dust was to much- besides just as quick with the drill and more controlled
it dont weaken the strength?
Excellent instruction, and a really skilful craftsman. Watch the American one replacing a brick at a wall end. cement all over the bricks. ugh.
+richard hardaker Thank you
Hey Chris, Good Video, very good,... also I have seen the use of dish detergent it works for grout bag in doing head joints as well,... I am in the states, could you please,.. try and speak a little more clearly taking the time for the rest of us who have properly killed the Kings English,...lol but great job mate !! I am looking forward to more of work, it is amazing how much different our American practices are from European, but both seem to work out well,... nicely done enjoyed it !
hi. trying to repair some loose bricks on our front garden wall but the mortar on our wall is rock hard. tried drilling and then chiselling but it isnt budging. can you suggest a solution. thanks
thanks for the advice , will give it a go tomorrow and see how it goes.
Great, good luck
Hi Chris is this kind of jobs a bricklayer improver would do on site?
Yes, I have had to do them over the years on different sites, as there is often damage to brickwork and it has to be corrected.
John G: thats correct, a small drop will be sufficiant to plastersize the mix..
A job like this would be a day's work if that...So builders prices vary from London to the North. Materials are very little so if you got your own from any builders merchants or DIY place, you'd need a bag of sand i/2 bag cement and your bricks. In the staffordshire area builders would be charging a price from around £120-150 for labour per day!. Hope that has helped..
Cracking job 👍🏻
I need exactly the same job doing! what would be the price from a builder??
A job like this would be a day's work if that...So builders prices vary from London to the North. Materials are very little so if you got your own from any builders merchants or DIY place, you'd need a bag of sand i/2 bag cement and your bricks. In the staffordshire area builders would be charging a price from around £120-150 for labour per day!. Hope that has helped..
Hey thanks Emeraldthrone, thanks for the imput bud, and yeh, I will try to talk more clearly...glad I didn't use dialect lol. I will use a mic next time instead of trusting to the vid recorders mic which is naff..see soon!
Hah, perfect. Just what I needed to know. I've got to do a similar thing at my parents house, but only three bricks. Great tips on removal and adding the plastersizer to the mortar. Good one... Cheers!
+magoo11111995 Thank you
very entertaining, for me personally i like the smaller jobs
+trevor cox Thank you
very helpful, Thank you very much
Brilliant vid! Cheers mate!
Nice work!
G'day Chris
I am wondering if you can do me a flavour,
I removed my air conditional unit and left a hole which needs to fix up with brick work.
I like your skill and your work.
I don't know where about you
Thank you
Bob
Good job sir
How come ya weren't wearing ya safety goggles mate?
I was scared the bricks would not dry to be the same color. The sun has bleached the older bricks but the color match is the same.
Looks easy but somehow I'll manage to find a way to fuck it all up when I'm trying to do it on my own. I always do.
Yea, it does and I'm going to try it. I have some bricks on my house that have just went to hell. So I'm going to try and replace one or two and see how it goes. What kind of drill was that? Looked pretty easy once he put those holes in.
Measuray Frank So your Dad showed you and not him? That's not fair. And as for me, I have other, more important skills involving my brain. I make enough money to just hire people like you to do the lowly grunt work. Of course I'm cheap so I try to do it myself first.
great post tank you
Thank you
great video
+Chilly7170 Thank you
thanks , I learned a lot
Na, it's a common practise amonst brickies fella...I done jobs over 30 years ago using w.u.l as a plastersiser and the mortor is as strong as it was when the jobs were done....dunna start the I am the building inspector and a pro....lol
why u add soap to the mud
+Paul Carter It's an old bricklayers trick- if you have no mortar plaster sizer to hand then a small drop will make the mortar much easier to work..
Nowt worse than when your being careful and that toothing brick cracks! aaaargh...
still waiting for video, mr perfect
Washing up liquid rots the cement ha rough as fuck
thanks
Cheers matey :)
welp if I could clearly understand what you were saying this would of been very helpful
Plastersizers are same based as detergents, Feb mix and the like- they all Aerate (bubbles in) the mortor creating a sliding effect on the sand granuals...most brickies on small jobs use washing up liqued. Small jobs like this don't need a professional plastersizer, it would cost to much. These are D.I.Y tips for small jobs helping people who are not in the trade. On large construction jobs the pastersizers are now pre added...your just trying to be a clever dickie
Its 2018 get a saw.
Doesn't have a clue how to make a good mix