383 Autopsy - Muscle Car Engine Rebuild Secrets Revealed
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2023
- Nick's Garage Gear Shop
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When Nick's client told him that his engine was leaking oil after SIX attempts at a fix, he knew he had to crack the case. Today he is in the rebuilding stage of the job. Will he solve the mystery of the leaky 383?
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![Gunna - back in the a [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oBrbejOHjLw/mqdefault.jpg)
All right let the games begin!
Right on Mooseman!
Do they ever get torqued.
Sealers definitely have their uses in engine builds, it's just that they are not required on every single surface.
19:31 As my mechanic friend John Paul Tapp used to say. . . “A Precision Hammer”
It’s hard to believe that in 1969 we’d sent men to the moon but still used a piece of rope for a gasket 😂 I guarantee those motors never got put together at the factory with anywhere near the care or precision that Nick gives them 👍
The blocks and heads were however better machined. No gaskets needed in those days. Apprentice came to me the other day when disassembling an old Ford engine. "Sir (this one is still polite, parents did a good job on his upbringing) Sir, there was no gasket. That's why the engine failed." After I explained in the old days no gaskets were up on in the factors you could just see the dissolution in his eyes😅😂.
Greetings Nick and gang from Adelaide Australia. 6:30am Tuesday morning
Thanks for watching in Australia, Steve!
Nick ,that air compressor looks like our old in the shop !!! Had to do that once before too ,along with keeping the compressor oil change ,and drain the tanks regularly. Big Wave and Smile Nick and George . Everyone have a good week ,be safe ,and " Take It Easy " .
I truly enjoy these videos. I've haven't torn the 360 apart in my 1978 D-150, but I have replaced the oil pump, intake, and carburetor. I rewired the engine Sunday... I was worried as I covered and taped the harness this past week. I measured everything multiple times. I took the bed off by myself and made sure all of the wiring to my electric fuel pump was secure and covered. After all of this, I tried to start the truck, and fuel was almost spraying out of the carburetor! I had to take the FPR down to 2 psi, and that did the trick! On one of these episodes, Nick said to put your distributor rotor at 5 o'clock! I must say that remembering that made the truck fire immediately! Thanks for the knowledge Nick!
ahhh part 2 of the leaking 383.
Thanks for being here for it, Eric.
wow! There is no way this rear main seal will leak again... good job Nick. 👍
I love these engine building videos, from finding the issue to the final fix. I'm anxious to see what Nick finds wrong with rear main oil seal. Six other people couldn't fix the problem, but I'm betting that Nick will fix that troublesome oil leak. Nick's Garage is the best automotive channel on RUclips!!
We sure appreciate the confidence, Eugene! You're the best.
@@NicksGarage I really enjoyed watching this video, and learning more of Nick's engine building secrets, which cover many decades. I'm looking forward to seeing this 383 on the Dyno once again, with no leaking rear main seal. Great camera work George, I felt like I was right there watching in person. The camera shot of the 6pack linkage was perfect, and there is definitely something wrong with the two outboard carbs.
Machinist said the metal had worn to an egg shape so it was impossible to seal.
@@markae0 I was aware of that issue when I watched the video.
Looks like a 3 phase contactor
When all the equipment is working, life is sweet in a shop. But when the compressor, lights, garage door, furnace, refrigerator, or coffee machine is down, life is rough. NIck's trip to the attic was a nice reality check.
Thanks once again, Nick. You always teach me something in these videos.
Dr. Nick is showing his trick's of the trade on how to put the seal in, very cool.
Mopar Monday at Nick's 🤘🤘
Got to love it.
The power of Knowledge, Passion and Technique…a Beautiful moment to behold. The 6 pack sure looks like diagram’s. Thank you again Nick and George. Well done!
I wonder if Nick has a vacuum pump & gauge to check the diaphragms.
Could perform a leakage (hold) test as well without any extra equipment.
@@jimc3688 true, we did that to the Side Oiler Fords a lot.
@@jimc3688 . I do have a vacum pump. This is the reason I am replacing the diaphragms.
Hey Nick, I'm a long time industrial compressor tech, I would also change out the pressure switch as well. They can (and usually are) the root cause of the starter (the box that you pointed out with the Contactor and Overload assembly). It provides the control power for the coil in that contactor (the large block in the starter)...and as they age the pressure switch can make intermittent contact that can make the contactor 'hammer'. If the switch is OK shape, switch your signal wires from one side to the other (inside the pressure switch there are a pair of normally closed contacts, you will be using only one pair at a time on three phase), they are like points on a distributor and get corroded over time. The other pair should be nice and fresh.
Since your generously passing out tips, I'll send you one for that machine. If possible (but yours being on a mezzanine it may not be practical), build a little manifold for the compressors air filters and put them outside and plumb back to the pump. Those DV Systems machines (built up the road from me in Barrie ON, we are a dealer for them) are extremely quiet and the only real noise is the suction sound coming from the intake, move it outdoors and that 447 pump will be almost screw compressor quiet.
If I can track down your email, I will send your my digital parts book for that machine so you can order the right parts locally.
We had it repaired. And thank you for this info.
Nick brings Hammer Mechanics to a Whole New Level 😳
I’ve installed a few of these, never used silicone, never tapped the seal carrier or block, but it makes sense. Cool tricks, thanks Nick!
Hi Nick and crew,let the diagnosis begin👍
Thanks for being here, John
Always enjoy Nick’s videos, he is a Master at his trade.I don’t do any engine work now,but always brings a smile to my face watching Nick at his shop.Myself and a few friends will be going to Nick’ s open house in June,see you there.
Looks like a good design on the rear main seal. Mopar designers were obviously good back in the day. I love the idea of using studs / guides. and the hammer taps and moving the crank as well. I never would have thought to do those steps. Wisdom is a powerful tool.
I've never done the guide pins or the hammer tap stress relief, but offsetting the seal and silicone in the corners is the way I was taught. Great video Nick.
Great rear seal lesson, which applies on a lot of engines!
Btw: in Sweden we have similar tyre regulations, during (certain dates) winter we must have M&S tyres, with or without studs.
BUt if we don't use studded tyres, we do not have to change to summer tyres.
Hey Nick and George and Everyone, just getting from baseball game . Love when Nick does his building tips and shows how its done and his tips . Great tips Nick !!!!! Write them books one day Nick !!!!!
The oval run-out on the crank sealing surface was almost certainly the cause. Rebuilding that surface and your retainer install protocol will almost certainly solve the problem. Well done sir!
Great technique on that rear main! Makes perfect sense. Well done!
@@rayowens4355 l
I knew it! I was screaming at the screen on the last vid, 'the journal is out of round'. My wife finally had to remind me that you couldn't hear me 😅
I love these videos. Thanks Nick and George!
Nick, I call this a “high bandwidth video”. Well done, sir
Nice content. Please continue to share the tips and tricks for folks who are doing it for themselves at the house.
Nick you are a great person for showing us the tips that you do. Because you don’t have to tell us any of your secrets that has took you years to learn God bless you nick
Can't get enough of Nick's vids. Really a mopar expert.
It’s amazing to me how much you remind me of my dad. He was a cabinet maker, but I spent the odd Saturday changing relays, wiring, plumbing, tiles, etc. nothing was off limits. Sure, you could pay someone to do that stuff, but where’s the fun in that?
From all the Guys and Gals swinging wrenches on old Mopars A big thank you to Nick for the knowledge passed on to us all. 👍
Hey Nick, I can't get enough of your video's. Being a retired motorcycle technician and machinist, I enjoy watching someone else doing the work even if it's a car engine. 😁🧓 With motorcycle's there's no knurling on any shaft end where the seal goes. Sometimes you'll see raised curved sections on the seal in the direction of pulling inwards (knurling) which pulls the oil inwards preventing oil leaks. Sometimes there's no knurling on the seal which eventually wears a groove on the steel shaft creating an oil leak. When I've shown customers the groove on the shaft caused by the rubber seal, most of the time they couldn't believe rubber could do that. I explain to them that the seal is slightly abrasive and with the shaft spinning fast, over time it will wear a groove on the shaft. Can't wait to see the 383 engine on the dyno running with no rear main seal leakage. I can't wait for this Friday's live show. See you soon.
"But you hated silicon!" Me looking back to note every time I heard it, it always involved the oil pan, the air intake or the head covers.
I love watching somebody who really really knows what theyre doing.
Here in Alabama USA we only change our tires when they wear out. Snow tires may be needed once a decade.
Sweet home...
Nick is a mechanical expert with promisses to keep and he's been tasked to fix this 383's persistent rear main seal leak He's like a missile that senses heat only reliability is the target that he will seek When any engine is being a cow Nick's Garage knows why and to fix it shows you how! Thanks Nick Word to your brother George
Nick, the human torque wrench! Include some taps, some wiggles, and presto - perfecto!
I now have a bit of Mopar in my 67 Camaro, Nick signed my glove box door at Motorama, such a pleasure meeting you all, you made my wife a fan of Nicks Garage, she tells everyone what great people you are.👍🇨🇦
It was my pleasure meeting you and your wife. It was my first glove box door I had signed. Very special for me.
Yessir!!! Always a pleasure hanging out with Nick and crew on Monday evenings, watching Nick apply his passionate craftsmanship to classic iron and building dreams!!! I'm sure that 383 will be just fine, along with everything else he has to do. Great week, guys, much love to y'all!!!!😊
I'm loving it George! Wallflowers are great! 6th Avenue Heartache a awesome tune!
I really dig all of your production and sound tracks etc! Y'all are a spectacular ensemble!💯👍
I thought I spent a good amount of time and meticulous attention to detail on my main seal til I saw this. Next one will be the same way you did it. Thanks for the great tip.
Nice follow-up. You just can’t be too careful when assembling an engine.
Nick is the Surgeon General of all thing automotive.
Sticking with what I learned working in the aerospace/defense industry, we use Dow-Corning 3145 RTV. It's not cheap, around $45 a tube, but it resists high heat, extreme cold, jet fuel, av-gas, solvents, etc. The military specifies it on aircraft. There is also a primer, Dow-Corning 1200. If you use it with the primer, it ain't coming apart, even if ya want it too. We also used disposable syringes with various orifice size disposable (EFD) tips. Squeeze the RTV from the tube into the syringe. You can put just the right amount exactly where you want it. A lot less waste too. It comes in grey and clear, so that Permatex brand might be similar.
And here in Pennsylvania, USA, people seem to have forgotten about real snow tires, let alone studded snow tires! I've even used them on my 4wds. Can't tell ya how many people I've pulled out stuck in snow that had 4WD and all-season radials! They have to be off by April 1.
The "offsetting" is a lot of the secret sauce - but the rest is just craftmanship/experience gold!
To me it seems like not so long ago these were new cars sitting on the showroom floor. Great to see Nick keeping them going 👍
Wow that was an awesome show Nick & George with heaps of valuable information re installing the rear seal and heaps of content overall thanks. Nick I'm sure you have sorted this oil seal now as nine out of ten is pretty damn good by my reckoning.
Your shop is like a working museum! Love watching your show
Thanks Nick for showing us how you install a rear seal your way 👍
Nasty Old Navy Shoe🇺🇸
Nick:
YOU are a automotive "treasure" my friend. The knowledge and passion you have ALWAYS takes me back to happy memories that only these cars have. Have to make it up from Florida to say hello in the future. Thanks for keeping the muscle car flame 🔥 BRIGHT!
Nick
I wish i could have worked with you when we were younger. You show your love for perfection. I respect that
Appreciate the kind words !
I never replaced anything that was factory stock if I couldn't see a clear-cut benefit from using a nonfactory part. Mopar did a great job on their cars. I really wish I had both my '63 Imperial LeBaron and my '68 Fury3 hardtop sedan back.
You're right about that Robert. Back when it mattered, in the time of these engines, an over the counter, stock, "cast" Chrysler piston was good for up to 600 horsepower. So was their stock "cast" crankshaft. Chrysler had superior iron casting. Try that with Ford or GM castings and you'd be sweeping up the pieces. The only answer was aftermarket forgings.
Hi Nick, Bahahhaha, my wife is watching Rock Hudson and Doris Day, I am watching you sealing up a 60's 383, talk about old school. By the way, you fixed that seal, it will not leak, also that Grey is for metal to metal, the Japanese vehicles and German vehicles have been using it for everything from water pumps to timing covers and oil pans, for years. I salute your change from using Indian Head Shellac 🤣. The offset of the seal, (or lack thereof), has been the ruin of many a young mechanic.
Great channel great work, keep it up
Blue Mule
NC
Nick, I don’t own and never will own a Mopar, That being said I do enjoy watching a Master at work, love the show and keep them coming👍
Excellent info. Offsetting the seal sure makes sense. Great stuff as always. Have a great week everyone.
Great tips Nick. Thank you. I have used Don Oaks also, great shop. Take care and thank you.
Like the insider tips to make the job easier
Something I've tried with the material of diaphrams is soaking them in PB Blaster to reconstitute them to supple state. Just a thought.
I saw the 440 6 pack front and rear carb linkages move slowly. I worked on Holley truck 4bbl carbs and found how to verify the vacuum diaphragms using compressed air down the carb's primary venturi. I found a lot of diaphragms didn't last very long, some of the diaphragm lower housings had a small round bearing blocking the vacuum to the diaphragm upper housing. Why? Don't know. Once removed, what a difference! Dirt in the lower diaphragm housing vacuum passage and non sealing gaskets between the carb and lower vacuum housing were two other problems. If the venturi port to the lower diaphragm housing is clogged or partially blocked, there's another reason for slow front and rear carbs throttle response.
Good work on the 6 pack's engine! Sounds good, just the crappy throttle response.
What I suspected, Egged. Why else some rope seal knurl and some not.
You did it much the way I always have, but never tried the tapping, just the crank rotation during install! Have never used anything but the factory Cap either!
Good job and thanks for sharing, going to believe there will be no leak!
Nick “Hammering” on all cylinders! Lol love this channel!
When Nick opens the garage in the morning he needs to keep the bay doors and the windows open. Fresh air in the garage is necessary for health.
He probably has a regulated venting system.
We want to see more about that chevy LSX engine in the background. Dyno it for us . Come on Nick
That's a DeVilbiss Model 447 compressor pump you have there. When is the last time you inspected the valves? Warning! The valve springs get metal fatigue when they get old and fracture, and then the pump eats the debris causing piston damage. I have replaced several pumps on people's shop compressors because of this. Replacement pumps are $7000+ . Do the inspection!
Something new that's been on the market for a few years now, but it is fairly new to People Like Us whenever you have an iffy diaphragm or you think it might be a little bit dry or even belts on an engine, or any other rubber associated with being under the hood of the car or even the tires, spray them down or wet them with 303 protectant and let them soak for about 12 hours and then reinstall them, they will last a considerable longer amount of time. I have seen tires go three times longer than their rated mileage. I have even read where test have run a serpentine belt 300,000 miles. I don't know about you, but I have found that the only way to get the idler pulley for the tensioner pulley, much less the spring to last over 100,000 miles is to take the seal off of the bearing and pack it with some wheel bearing grease because they only put white lithium grease in the bearings on an idler or tensioner pulley. It will allow those bearings to last considerably longer as well. A little bit of the CRC black brake Lube and the red and white jar will work good for the bearing as well. But wheel bearing grease works great
Yes Nick I enjoy watching my D200 366 & B200 327 both 600 carburetor. HOURS LATER NO LEAK
383 not bad king of the small blocks 434 SB CHEVY ❤
That truck needs a bit of Camarata maintenance Nick.
Keep a rattle can of white in the glove box.
Just give it a shake and a few shots over the rust every time it reappears and it'll keep it looking brand new...ish
;-)
Thanks for the tech tip on the B/RB rear seal.
have my popcorn lets get some of nicks
Just getting home from work and couldn't wait to watch. Thanks again Nick and crew😎
My first car had a 352 T-bird engine with a 4 barrel carburetor that opened the secondaries using venturi vacuum off one of the primary venturis. It had a bad stumble until I figured out that the linkage on the vacuum pod was out of position. After that was corrected, it would scream off the line if you stomped it, but if you stepped in slowly enough to keep it from breaking traction, you could hear the secondaries start kicking in at about 30 mph. It would get much better acceleration if you didn't let it break traction because if you stomped it, the car would sit still for a split second, burning both tires before it started moving. The takeoff was definitely more violent with a no spin takeoff. My younger brother couldn't believe that my worn out, oil burning 352 could outrun his fresh built 390 on a half mile run when I didn't even bark a tire.
Hey I like those little Ford pickups. 👍
The Ranger works hard.
Class is in session fellas! Sit down, take notes and learn! I love it when Dr. Nick teaches. He is the Auto mechanic Master Instructor! Love it! 🤙💪❤
Agreed on those carbs. Like something is sticky. It just isnt working right comparing to past videos of how they operate.
Your Passion is Palpable 🤙🏻
Love what ya do Nick. Thanks very much. I still want to bring my old 4.6l 2v to ya. :) Health and Well-being sir. I want to add the videos your produce are top notch! Great shots, Great Camera guy, Great editing, Who is the narrator? :) Anyways... 👍
Mr George does the camera and narrating work.
Keep up these amazing videos
Thanks! That is the plan. ❤
Hello Nick!!! Another thoroughly enjoyable video!!!
Thanks, Dave
Yeah! Big blocks Mopars are beautiful,thanks Nick .
hard to find mechanics and engine rebuilders of a high standard , but once youve got them in one company its like a well oiled machine .
hey! nick ,just a tip , purchase some castrol motorcycle chain lube and spray it over the rust spots , the formula kills the bacteria that cause rust , it may look unsightly but it will stop the rust right there
Replaced the rear main seal on my 383 roadrunner a few weeks ago using the nick method. So far no leaks!
Those era ford rangers will run for many miles with reasonable maintenance, I had an 05 it was a great daily driver
Man RUclips is playing hard ball ,,,, the video started with commercials and then it played for 65 seconds and I got 2 more commercials,,, so far it's been fun.....
I use guid pin's like yours in the bell housing to join motor and transmission, saves trouble, with manual/standard, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Its always the newer garages that don't get the older designs! I KNOW hat rear main oil leak is fixed as Nick pointed out ALL the possible variables, and corrected them! PROBLEM SOLVED! Nick my Mopar Brethren, you sir ought to change the name of the garage to "Nick the Mopar Doctor"!!! 😁😁
Thanks for sharing Nick! Top notch video George! Tres Bon!
Nearly identical to an F.E. Ford. Ford's add set pins to tighten side seals. Same basic procedure, Nick. I 've built many Fords and never had a leak after installation. One word of caution. Neoprene and Viton seals will wear crank over time. Rope seals will not unless contaminated. Either type can leak though. Ford guy, but love your content. Keep it coming!
Hats off to the one piece rear main seal.
Giasou Nikola,
Boy oh boy I feel your fatigue. I worked until recently 7 years, 7 days a week, 2 jobs, night shift & you just keep going even when the tank is empty but sooner or later you burnout.
You my friend are way overdue for a holiday, away from phones, cameras & muscle cars.
Abit of R & R with your lovely wife, only telling you this a very concern friend.
Back to the 383, I think you need to release a CD of the “ Sounds from Nick’s Garage “, abit of Dyno music, rear seal taping, Greek swearing & the rest.
By the way hope you are looking forward to Paros this year, Mario from Adelaide will be there in approximately 6 weeks time for a wedding. Unfortunately he can’t ship his 1970 B5 383 Gran Coupe Cuda over.
The rear seal is done & dusted I will bet my house it doesn’t leak, it is in the bag.
Unfortunately can’t make June the 4 th street party there is this thing called the Pacific Ocean that separates us. Look forward to that party.
Take care of yourself Buddy.
Cheers
Louis Kats your number 1 Fan in Australia, from Melbourne the worlds most liveable city that’s what they tell us.
👍 😊 🇬🇷 🇦🇺 🇨🇦 🇺🇸
Giassou Louis.
I love Ford rangers my 2002 4banger 5 speed has 423,000 miles on it and everything works . 😊
Restretch or relace and adjust excelorator springs to improve that lag on them carbs..
Need my coffee ☕ and cigarettes and Nick's garage 😊😊
Nice work! Wish I knew you when I rebuild my 318 and installed the distributor 180 off. Flames were shooting out the carb!
Just like we used to do on all Molars ! Glad to see someone else doing it properly. I might come up for a summer and work with you Nick. Got any room for me? I'll retire next year and would like to add this to my bucket list.😎
Dr. Nick, yes it seems that the cost of everything is going up, and for you it is storage for your clients, but the upside you will see your Kowalski Challenger in the shop when you are working, and I will be sending you something for mail time, cheers.
Thank you Eric. You do not need to.
Rotary screw compressors are awesome for the automotive shops, look at one when its time to replace.
Depending on pump size and usage a rotary screw may be cheaper to operate.
That Permatex Gray is good sh..
When worked at a Ford dealership. The Frod gray was awesome! Makes me wonder if its the same? 🤔
Yup yup clean clean clean. Put an oil pan up with this stuff no gasket. Just a little on the railes. Let it it over night. Then fill it.
I was so hard getting pans off from ford with this stuff.
I even did one. And pulled the bolts off. And ran it. No problems. That was on a old pos shop truck.