I am not new to knitting but have not made that many socks until fairly recently. What I have realised is it’s a good idea to divide the ball / skein of wool in half before casting on so you know exactly how much you have for each sock. No yarn chicken hopefully ! Great podcast.
You’ll typically need 50g of yarn for each sock, so if you purchase a 100g ball dividing it in half for each sock would be ideal. I started with bamboo needles but found they snagged the yarn after using them for awhile and switched to ChiaoGoo stainless steel. They are incredibly sharp - wonderful for not splitting yarn and so smooth and fast, but painful 😣 on the hands ! I’m now using Addi Sock Rockets which are also metal, but not as fast (a bit of grip) and not as sharp. I’d love a hybrid of the two! I love the decorative progress keepers on lever backs versus lobster claw clasps and haven’t had any snagging experiences luckily. Are they necessary? No, they just make me happy while knitting. 😄
I've been a lurker on your channel for a long time, Anushka, and I'm always impressed by your manner of sharing knowledge. Your empathy makes you able to put yourself in the shoes of a new knitter and "de-scarify" whatever topic or technique you are discussing. Thank you for your pedagogical talent as well as your vast knowledge of fibre, knitting and garment-making.
Lightbulb safety pins are fantastic for knitting, some clothing companies use them for attaching price labels so I get friends and family to save them for my knitting kit.
When I started knitting socks, as a newbie, I was so confused about the heels. Grafting, no problem. Ribbing, no problem. Straight knitting for the leg, easy. My go-to now is always a heel flap w gusset but I think it’ll be great to showcase a few different common type of heels and maybe advantages of each?
I have several tips.....start off sock knitting with bigger yarn/needles so you can see your work progress quickly before going to 'sock-weight' yarn. I find toe-up patterns ideal because you get the toe, foot and heel finished while you still have lots of yarn... then use the rest to complete the leg which can be any length. Another tip is to avoid 'second-sock syndrome' by getting two sets of needles and knitting the socks at the same time....the toe of one, the toe of the other etc. They will be finished at almost the same time. Enjoy!
When I taught a couple of friends to knit socks I used magic loop. The reason for that is that I find it easier not having needles poking out in every direction, and if you knit loose you do not have the same risk of needles falling out. I also used worsted to aran weight yarn to knit what we in Sweden call "raggsockar" -extra warm and thick socks for winter. I think that is great because you can get a pair of socks much faster, and then move on to thinner yarn and apply the same technique, with just more stitches.
Everyone I know has broken bamboo dpns. I use the prym ergonomic dpns now and don't ever want to use anything else. They are all the best bits of bamboo but without the breaking! 😊
I'd also recommend choosing a sockyarn that is not too loosely plied. For although they look nice and make good socks, it tends to be splitty, and is harder to tink back if you make a mistake.
My sock knitting journey started with books from the library on sock knitting. I knit my first pair using worsted weight yarn and US6/4mm because that's what I had on hand and I wanted to practice sock construction and really understand what goes where and how it feels. Knitting with heavier weight yarn and bigger needles meant I got to each section faster and if I needed to rip back, it didn't feel like days of knitting gone (which can be frustrating when you're just starting out!). Also, I had US6/4mm and I didn't have 2mm or 2.25mm or 2.25mm needles so this gave me an opportunity to try out sock knitting before committing to purchasing additional tools. I've also heard some people recommend knitting up baby socks to get a feel for construction with the idea that it's quicker than an adult-size sock.
The best sock needles imo are Knit Pro Karbonz. A slightly grippy needle with a smooth, metal point (pretty sharp, so great for k2tog and lace) combines the best of both worlds. They're made from carbon fiber, which is light yet indestructible. It also feels warmer to the touch than metal and doesn't bend. My needles have been going strong for 6 years now, and I knit A LOT of socks. I love both the dpn's and the circulars for magic loop.
I've found that the metal tips end up coming off the Karbonz and my yarn gets caught in the join. It's a shame as I do like how they are otherwise strong and light
@@TheCrimsonStitchery I had my first set of Karbonz for about 3 years and 20 pairs of socks before the tips started coming off. I bought another set 2 years ago and so far they are as good as new. I love them. I usually knit with 2 mm needles and I used to always break the bamboo and bend the metal ones.
@@TheCrimsonStitchery That's a shame indeed! Maybe I've just had a lot of luck with mine? But even if the tips would come off, I would probably buy them again because I like them so much :)
I use the lightbulb/coilless safety pins as stitch markers. My first socks were worsted weight house socks on double pointed needles. I now prefer using the 2 circular needle method using chiaogoo metal needles. I think one of the main things I've learned over the years is that it's ok to not knit a full length leg of the sock. I prefer shorty socks and can usually make a pair of socks with a 50 gram ball of sock yarn instead of 100 grams. I've also found that nylon needs to be in the yarn otherwise the heels and toes wear through too quickly.
I love your channel! You are so sweet. I am rather new to sock knitting. I swore I would never undertake the tedious task and never understood why people became addicted to it. Then, I knitted a pair of socks and I'm very addicted. I have found that as I knit up my socks, I continually go down a needle size. I started at US 2 which was too large, moved to a US 1.5 (2.5 mm) , then to US 1 (2.25mm) which seems appropriate for some yarns, but the softer yarn made me consider using a size zero (2 mm). It doesn't sound like a large jump, but it's enough to change the characteristics of the sock fabric. I haven't found someone who discusses which needle size they prefer and for what type of yarn. For example, I would use a size zero for some of the finer merinos, but perhaps I'm overly conservative. Could you discuss the needles you use and when you might change the size for pattern, style or wool/wool brand?
I've knit a baby size sock and I did test the pattern as it was written for magic loop (which i don't mind) but for the few stitches on the needle I found it cumbersome. So the second sock I decided to use dpns. It was a good process although the two processes did produce different tension. Moving onto an adult sock is scary although I don't know why ... I think due to the components of the sock and all the ways you can do that. I loved this little intro, it was very well done, and I'm looking forward to watching more. Who knows may be an adult pair of socks might actually become a reality :D
You've got the right approach, just keep experimenting until you find a combination that works for you! Others here have suggested knitting a thicker sock from sport/DK yarn so that it goes a bit faster
@@TheCrimsonStitchery I think that is a good idea to knit a thicker sock and I have some yarn I could do that with. Tin Can Knits as a pattern I think called Rye for dk or worsted that may be a good place to start.
@@Lynne-G Good plan! I have some sport weight sock patterns too - it was the first time I'd knit thicker socks, and it was so pleasing that they were really SO much faster! Good for gifts...
I really practiced to get over being intimidated by dpn's and now prefer them, but I still start a sock on magic loop because that's much easier until I have done a few rounds, then knit onto the dpn's and continue. I thought I liked Karbonz, and they are light weight and a good middle ground between wood and metal, but the join between shaft and tip is not as smooth as I would like. Really enjoying the Zing dpn's more. If you're really set on magic loop, nothing compares to ChiaoGoo. By far the best cords in the business, and if you're using interchangeables you can switch out the metal tips for the Spin series bamboo which fit onto the red cords without an adapter.
You forgot 9" circulars for regular knitting in the round. I like those and 32" circulars for heels and toes as I don't like fighting porcupines. Chiaogoo metal needles are quite textured so stitches don't just fly off Also old cleaned jewellery barbells make good stitch markers
I'm wondering if it's just me who worries about metal stitch markers maybe scratching the wood needles as they are pushed along. I keep a set of plastic markers for all non-metal needles.
You need 4ply yarn for regular socks. Something which is preferably 75% wool 25% nylon and not merino/polwarth/Falkland wool with a tight multiple ply. Regia and Opal are pretty much dedicated to sock yarn production. Also WYS Signature 4ply and stylecraft head over heels. You can try Cygnet truly wool rich and Drops Fabel but these aren't as good quality.
The Crimson Stitchery wow! That’s so cool 😊 I’m an avid crocheter and a beginner knitter! You shd talk about that sweater sometime. Would love to hear 😊
I am a Newbie in as much as I have knitted 2 pair of socks using DPN’s 27 yrs ago then had to give up any needlework because of a back problem. Now I have managed to crochet for the last 2 years and knit recently. I have purchased many balls of wool to make socks but am completely overwhelmed. I don’t know how to use circular needles, the long cord was a complete frustration and ruined my tension. So, what would be the ideal length of circular needle to make socks? I am determined that this is the year I am going to overcome my phobia and learn to knit with circular needles. Please help 🙏🏻🙂...... thanks from Australia 🐨🐨🦘🦘
I use 80cm/32" circulars but you might do well to get a set of interchangeable needles and try out different lengths till you find what suits you personally
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
I am not new to knitting but have not made that many socks until fairly recently. What I have realised is it’s a good idea to divide the ball / skein of wool in half before casting on so you know exactly how much you have for each sock. No yarn chicken hopefully ! Great podcast.
You’ll typically need 50g of yarn for each sock, so if you purchase a 100g ball dividing it in half for each sock would be ideal. I started with bamboo needles but found they snagged the yarn after using them for awhile and switched to ChiaoGoo stainless steel. They are incredibly sharp - wonderful for not splitting yarn and so smooth and fast, but painful 😣 on the hands ! I’m now using Addi Sock Rockets which are also metal, but not as fast (a bit of grip) and not as sharp. I’d love a hybrid of the two!
I love the decorative progress keepers on lever backs versus lobster claw clasps and haven’t had any snagging experiences luckily. Are they necessary? No, they just make me happy while knitting. 😄
I've been a lurker on your channel for a long time, Anushka, and I'm always impressed by your manner of sharing knowledge. Your empathy makes you able to put yourself in the shoes of a new knitter and "de-scarify" whatever topic or technique you are discussing. Thank you for your pedagogical talent as well as your vast knowledge of fibre, knitting and garment-making.
Never thought of the rings on bras. Very clever!
Lightbulb safety pins are fantastic for knitting, some clothing companies use them for attaching price labels so I get friends and family to save them for my knitting kit.
They are so good. I ended up buying a pack of one hundred on eBay for under $4
Smart! I’ll keep that in mind.
When I started knitting socks, as a newbie, I was so confused about the heels. Grafting, no problem. Ribbing, no problem. Straight knitting for the leg, easy. My go-to now is always a heel flap w gusset but I think it’ll be great to showcase a few different common type of heels and maybe advantages of each?
I have several tips.....start off sock knitting with bigger yarn/needles so you can see your work progress quickly before going to 'sock-weight' yarn. I find toe-up patterns ideal because you get the toe, foot and heel finished while you still have lots of yarn... then use the rest to complete the leg which can be any length. Another tip is to avoid 'second-sock syndrome' by getting two sets of needles and knitting the socks at the same time....the toe of one, the toe of the other etc. They will be finished at almost the same time. Enjoy!
Great, thanks!
I love your tips!
When I taught a couple of friends to knit socks I used magic loop. The reason for that is that I find it easier not having needles poking out in every direction, and if you knit loose you do not have the same risk of needles falling out. I also used worsted to aran weight yarn to knit what we in Sweden call "raggsockar" -extra warm and thick socks for winter. I think that is great because you can get a pair of socks much faster, and then move on to thinner yarn and apply the same technique, with just more stitches.
Everyone I know has broken bamboo dpns. I use the prym ergonomic dpns now and don't ever want to use anything else. They are all the best bits of bamboo but without the breaking! 😊
I'd also recommend choosing a sockyarn that is not too loosely plied. For although they look nice and make good socks, it tends to be splitty, and is harder to tink back if you make a mistake.
My sock knitting journey started with books from the library on sock knitting. I knit my first pair using worsted weight yarn and US6/4mm because that's what I had on hand and I wanted to practice sock construction and really understand what goes where and how it feels. Knitting with heavier weight yarn and bigger needles meant I got to each section faster and if I needed to rip back, it didn't feel like days of knitting gone (which can be frustrating when you're just starting out!). Also, I had US6/4mm and I didn't have 2mm or 2.25mm or 2.25mm needles so this gave me an opportunity to try out sock knitting before committing to purchasing additional tools. I've also heard some people recommend knitting up baby socks to get a feel for construction with the idea that it's quicker than an adult-size sock.
That sounds like a great approach!
The best sock needles imo are Knit Pro Karbonz. A slightly grippy needle with a smooth, metal point (pretty sharp, so great for k2tog and lace) combines the best of both worlds. They're made from carbon fiber, which is light yet indestructible. It also feels warmer to the touch than metal and doesn't bend. My needles have been going strong for 6 years now, and I knit A LOT of socks. I love both the dpn's and the circulars for magic loop.
I've found that the metal tips end up coming off the Karbonz and my yarn gets caught in the join. It's a shame as I do like how they are otherwise strong and light
@@TheCrimsonStitchery I had my first set of Karbonz for about 3 years and 20 pairs of socks before the tips started coming off. I bought another set 2 years ago and so far they are as good as new. I love them. I usually knit with 2 mm needles and I used to always break the bamboo and bend the metal ones.
@@TheCrimsonStitchery That's a shame indeed! Maybe I've just had a lot of luck with mine? But even if the tips would come off, I would probably buy them again because I like them so much :)
I was disappointed at the join between shaft and tip on these so tried the Zings which I like better.
I use the lightbulb/coilless safety pins as stitch markers. My first socks were worsted weight house socks on double pointed needles. I now prefer using the 2 circular needle method using chiaogoo metal needles. I think one of the main things I've learned over the years is that it's ok to not knit a full length leg of the sock. I prefer shorty socks and can usually make a pair of socks with a 50 gram ball of sock yarn instead of 100 grams. I've also found that nylon needs to be in the yarn otherwise the heels and toes wear through too quickly.
I knit socks a lot and like to use two 16” circular needles with the top of the foot or one and the bottom on the other. Thanks for these useful tips.
Oooo😍 I absolutely LOVE how your crochet sweater turned out!!👏🏻👏🏻 I get inspired just looking at it!
Thank you!
I love your channel! You are so sweet. I am rather new to sock knitting. I swore I would never undertake the tedious task and never understood why people became addicted to it. Then, I knitted a pair of socks and I'm very addicted. I have found that as I knit up my socks, I continually go down a needle size. I started at US 2 which was too large, moved to a US 1.5 (2.5 mm) , then to US 1 (2.25mm) which seems appropriate for some yarns, but the softer yarn made me consider using a size zero (2 mm). It doesn't sound like a large jump, but it's enough to change the characteristics of the sock fabric. I haven't found someone who discusses which needle size they prefer and for what type of yarn. For example, I would use a size zero for some of the finer merinos, but perhaps I'm overly conservative. Could you discuss the needles you use and when you might change the size for pattern, style or wool/wool brand?
I've knit a baby size sock and I did test the pattern as it was written for magic loop (which i don't mind) but for the few stitches on the needle I found it cumbersome. So the second sock I decided to use dpns. It was a good process although the two processes did produce different tension. Moving onto an adult sock is scary although I don't know why ... I think due to the components of the sock and all the ways you can do that. I loved this little intro, it was very well done, and I'm looking forward to watching more. Who knows may be an adult pair of socks might actually become a reality :D
You've got the right approach, just keep experimenting until you find a combination that works for you! Others here have suggested knitting a thicker sock from sport/DK yarn so that it goes a bit faster
@@TheCrimsonStitchery I think that is a good idea to knit a thicker sock and I have some yarn I could do that with. Tin Can Knits as a pattern I think called Rye for dk or worsted that may be a good place to start.
@@Lynne-G Good plan! I have some sport weight sock patterns too - it was the first time I'd knit thicker socks, and it was so pleasing that they were really SO much faster! Good for gifts...
I really practiced to get over being intimidated by dpn's and now prefer them, but I still start a sock on magic loop because that's much easier until I have done a few rounds, then knit onto the dpn's and continue.
I thought I liked Karbonz, and they are light weight and a good middle ground between wood and metal, but the join between shaft and tip is not as smooth as I would like. Really enjoying the Zing dpn's more.
If you're really set on magic loop, nothing compares to ChiaoGoo. By far the best cords in the business, and if you're using interchangeables you can switch out the metal tips for the Spin series bamboo which fit onto the red cords without an adapter.
Bet you can use old odd earrings as stitch markers
I really like your sweater! Do you have a video/pattern on how to do it and any suggested yarns!
You forgot 9" circulars for regular knitting in the round. I like those and 32" circulars for heels and toes as I don't like fighting porcupines. Chiaogoo metal needles are quite textured so stitches don't just fly off
Also old cleaned jewellery barbells make good stitch markers
A crochet hook is a good tool to have on hand when you drop stitches
It would be good to know as I’ve had issues how to knit on the right side when turning the heel.
I'm wondering if it's just me who worries about metal stitch markers maybe scratching the wood needles as they are pushed along. I keep a set of plastic markers for all non-metal needles.
what should i look for when picking out a yarn for socks? all i know is that i need something thinner and, for me, machine washable..
You need 4ply yarn for regular socks. Something which is preferably 75% wool 25% nylon and not merino/polwarth/Falkland wool with a tight multiple ply.
Regia and Opal are pretty much dedicated to sock yarn production. Also WYS Signature 4ply and stylecraft head over heels.
You can try Cygnet truly wool rich and Drops Fabel but these aren't as good quality.
Hi! What’s the pattern for the sweater you are wearing please?
Hey Anushka, are you wearing a crocheted sweater 😊
Yes I am!
The Crimson Stitchery wow! That’s so cool 😊 I’m an avid crocheter and a beginner knitter! You shd talk about that sweater sometime. Would love to hear 😊
I am a Newbie in as much as I have knitted 2 pair of socks using DPN’s 27 yrs ago then had to give up any needlework because of a back problem. Now I have managed to crochet for the last 2 years and knit recently. I have purchased many balls of wool to make socks but am completely overwhelmed. I don’t know how to use circular needles, the long cord was a complete frustration and ruined my tension. So, what would be the ideal length of circular needle to make socks? I am determined that this is the year I am going to overcome my phobia and learn to knit with circular needles. Please help 🙏🏻🙂...... thanks from Australia 🐨🐨🦘🦘
I use 80cm/32" circulars but you might do well to get a set of interchangeable needles and try out different lengths till you find what suits you personally
The Crimson Stitchery ok, I’ll look into that. Thanks. 😊
I enjoy knitting socks on 16" circulars because it's easier and faster to move the yarn around ♡
JilliA T-Bell thank you😊
@@lesleyoliver5582
yw ♡