I just watched this, excellent info. It surely brought back memories. I worked at a nuclear power plant in Colorado for 23 years. We had our own metrology lab, which basically calibrated everything in the plant. To use a torque wrench, we had to check it out, verify the calibration sticker, perform a bench test on the wrench within the specs called for in the procedure, go use the wrench on the job, then bench test it before zeroing, and put away in the locked cabinet. Whew! For the reactor isolation valves (15 tons each with 5-3 1/2 inch bolt down feet) we used an air driven (essentially a die grinder type air motor) planetary gear torque wrench that had to be moved by crane because it was too heavy. The wrench anchored into the adjacent foot for torquing. At the calibrated 17 lb. Of dry air pressure, the wrench torqued each foot to 25,000 ft.- lbs. When the air motor stalled out, it was torqued! Phenominal!
Great video on a subject that is near and dear to our hearts. In 1924, Walter P. Chrysler was having problems with his aluminum block racing engines. They were blowing up. Chrysler was a great engineer and after watching motor assembly he tracked the problem to the head bolts not being evenly torqued. Chrysler invented the flat beam torque wrench and licensed Paul A. Sturtevant to build the tools. Chrysler was a great engineer and wanted to build cars, not tools. Sturtevant and after the merger with Richmont, Sturtevant Richmont, is the oldest torque tool company in the world. We've been making torque wrenches for more than 90 years. Our name is probably not familiar to you because we build tools for industrial use. Sturtevant and the Richmont companies invented most of the torque tool innovations in the industry. The torque screwdriver, the preset click wrench, interchangeable heads for torque wrenches, adjustable torque wrenches, and torque testers, are all things we take for granted today. Those are some of the inventions that came out of the engineering labs at those two companies.
I have used a Harbor Freight Clicker type of torque wrench for the last 22 years. I have always stored it with a loose lock nut and at zero pounds. Works well for the price.
I watched the entire series. As always, they were informative, interesting, and well presented. Thank you for sharing. These precision tools will be needed when you rebuild your turbo encabulator.
One of the best videos I've seen on the basics of torque wrenches. I know the dial type are the most accurate. Some diesel engines require dial type when setting injector height adjustments.
I use Snap-On torque wrenches at work, all click type. The wrenches are on an annual calibration program to maintain accuracy. I have to remember about mid-range settings to get the best accurate reading, thanks professor!
One the CTECH and ATECH-B platforms you do not need visual contact on the measurement screen, you can use the LED side lights to alert you to the target set value. You can also set your target set torque or angle values by using the PSET feature for min/target/max values or set up petcentage +/- values in the CONFIGURE menu. The side LED lights will adjust to the settings
John, Thanks for reviewing our Snap-on torque wrenches. I would just like to make a couple of comments. The cap issue you described has been addressed in the new ATECHB model. Completely new handle design. Also, the comment you made about not being accurate at the upper end of the scale is a common misconception. Actually, all good torque wrenches are calibrated from 20% to 100% of full scale. Those readings are generally linear, see the readings on the included certificate of calibration. Our digital wrenches will go down to 5% of full scale, but with a different accuracy limit.
two separate units of measurement that require careful use of the shift key dNm = deciNewtonmeter or 1/10 of a Newton meter. DNm is a dekaNewtonmeter or 10x a newton meter. you'll also find DecaNewtons shown as daN, so daNm for 10x a newton meter. decaNewtons are pretty much never used as a measurement of force the same way you never see decameter as a unit of length. however, when in doubt, RTFM.
Most people will come across torque wrenches for the purpose of tightening nuts and bolts. The idea being to give some kind of consistency in the clamping force of the nut and bolt. I've never yet seen bolt tightening torques specify whether the nut and bolt should be dry or well lubricated. So all this talk of accuracy goes completely out of the window if lubrication is not specified. I'd suspect a lubricated nut and bolt would give a clamping force one and a half times that of a dry nut and bolt. Maybe you can do an experiment on this - compare dry bolt, lubricated threads and finally lubricated threads and bearing surfaces of the nut and bolt.
Thank you for your teaching effort in this video. Still, I wonder: In your experience, which brands and types of torque wrenches seem the most consistently reliable over the long-term? Sure, they all need calibration, but do your checkers find some frequently test as being way off (maybe even needing repair), while others almost always are pretty close to the true values?
Hello & you Sir, make some very good and detailed videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Love this video on torque, because it is one of the major issues in manufacturing these days.....and has resulted in torque-to-yeild.... Grrr: I hate torque to yield, but that is the trend. Worse: On head bolts due you oil or keep "dry".....varies by manufacturer and is a true PINTA b/c the actual torque on fastener can very by a LOT.....grrr. PS: Electronic torque wrenches, based on "load cells", have much tighter tolerance throughout the torque range. This allows users to buy a 1/4" drive and 1/2" drive set while skipping 3/8"'s. Another advantage to the load-cell wrench is that it can have a swivel point at the head without affecting true torque reading. Myj opinions, but LOVE your videos and please keep posting. P
I was taught by ATG and ATG staff. I have been using ATG's KTC digital torque wrenches & ATG's Nepros 90 tooth Ratchets. I use these for doing electron microscopes, cameras and fine vehicles. Do you use KTC and Nepros? Well done, John Kelly.
It's funny you 'torquing' about bearing preload. In the last 9 months, I've started watching a few machining channels - and made a comment on one suspecting the guy's lathe spindle bearings are too loose. (He has since tightened them and significantly reduced chatter on his machine.) I believe my lathe spindle bearings are 'about right' re preload. To measure this in any vague way, with the spindle not in any gear and with the standard size 3 jaw chuck key in the chuck facing the operator (i.e. 9 O'clock position looking from the tailstock) that there is enough pre-load on the spindle bearings to prevent the weight of the chuck key from revolving the spindle AND if the spindle is moved (chuck key downwards) the weight of the key is enough to accelerate the rotation. I noted in the 1980s that in the Snap-On tool catalogue, the torque wrench tester was the most expensive item in the catalogue ! (Which is odd really considering how easy it'd be to make a primitive one out of a large bucket and string and just add the weight of water you wanted to test !)
I have a few additional questions: I've been told that the proper units are "pound-feet" and "pound-inches", not "foot-pounds" and "inch-pounds". Which order of the units is correct? Does having an extension attached to the ratcheting portion affect the torque being measured or applied, since there is more material being twisted?
Great question! Foot-pounds, inch-pounds , and other similar units should have the word "Force" after them. It does not matter which way you arrange foot-pound or pound-foot because you are multiplying them together to obtain the final result. 10 pounds of force x 1 foot = 1 foot x 10 pounds of force. Yes, any extension used while torquing will reduce the effective torque delivered because of the twisting in the extension. I hope that helps.
Extensions will NOT affect torque readings, I have seen a guy on RUclips test something like 11 feet of extensions and the torque reading is exactly the same.
Thanks for knowledge! I've seen small stahlwille torque wrench in 'mpk' unit. Did not know what that is,still wondeing... I do have two questions. First, how does the calibration process look like? How does someone calibrate and fix torque wrench? Two, I've got offer on Snap-On torquemeter TQ175 fo 35$. How do I inspect it? How one knows if it was overpowered?
We use the Snap-on tool guy to get ours calibrated. He sends them somewhere to get done. Snap-on sells calibration machines, but they are very expensive. I do not know how to tell if one has been overpowered. Maybe you could compare it to a torque wrench that has not been abused and check for similar accuracy. Best wishes
John, I understood the click style torque wrenches are to be stored at their lowest setting, not at zero. What's your opinion? Awesome information, as always!
33:20 'Bearing preload' What you're measuring also includes oil seal friction - so does the manufacturer's spec include oil seal friction too or should the preload be checked before oil seals are fitted ? (I can well believe to refit oil seals, you'd need to unload the bearings again :) )
I bought the Snap on TE-12 0-250 Inch/lbs for measure the steering gear box for w124 Mercedes. Should this be ok? The MB manual says 110-160 ncm which is 9.7- 14.2 inch lbs. MB use the term "Friction torque from the center" and rotate from stop to stop. "Breakaway" should be similar idea? Thanks
Don't you just hate it when you spend all kinds of money on a nice tool and there's really silly little problems with them? I can only assume they don't give them to 200 pound gorillas like us when they test them in R&D.
WeberAuto 😂👍 Lol I could have just say 4 thread charts in me head.., but cause of the great American.... inability to change.., I’ve got about a dozen and all the imp/ met conversion charts as well😂👍
I wouldn't trust any electronic measuring tool. Those torque wrenches will have load cells in them - and as yet, I've not come across one reliable load cell.
20:10 dNm - is obviously deciNewton metre - it's a measure of torque - 1/10 of a Nm. This is elementary metric stuff ! Unless it's DNm - then it's DekaNewton metre which is 10 Nm !
Those Snap-on torque wrenches seem ridiculously over-complicated and Snap-on undoubtedly charges too much for them. If you have to WATCH the digital read-out you might as well use a bendy-beam type of torque wrench which are very accurate around the center values and never lose their accuracy, stay accurate until the beam eventually breaks, which even with frequent use probably may not happen in the original user's lifetime. What is being sensed and reported to the digital readout of the snap-on wrench? A strain-gauge will have a different resistance depending upon the amount of deformation of the object it is attached to. From that resistance value a computing chip will deduce torque value and send it to the digital readout. So what is being deformed? Is the digital readout reporting information about the length of a spring inside the unit, similar to the spring that is inside a clicker type of wrench? Is it reporting on the deflection of a bendy beam? Is there some kind of electronic sensor that makes changes in electrical resistance with changes of force upon it, from something else? What is going on with these things? Just because the torque is being reported to a fine degree, on the readout, doesn't mean that the actual torque on the fastener is really being set to within as fine tolerance as the readout is able to report. So digital readouts often provide an ILLUSION of precision, and of accuracy. Would or would not something from Snap-on do something like that? Back to bendy-beam torque wrenches. With a bendy beam wrench, if you see that the pointer is not at zero when the wrench is not wrenching, you can just bend the pointer a bit until it points to zero again. Problem Solved. Make a Pointer Point to Zero Again. MAPPZA. There are 2 ways it can un-zero-fy, become dis-zero-ized, un-zero itself: (1) The wrench gets smacked into something and that bends the pointer stick. (2) The beam gets used so many times, usually with clockwise force on it, and often with a great degree of force on it, bending it to nearly the end of the scale, or even continuing to tighten a fastener even after the pointer has reached the end of the scale, that eventually the beam has become bent a bit. Does this mean it has weakened to the point where you can expect it to break after a few dozen more pulls? I don't know. Could be though, especially if it was bent past the point where the pointer has reached the end of the scale, and then bent back in other direction again. The clicker wrenches are sort of like putting that spring-scale thing you showed us at the beginning, inside the body of the the device. By turning the handle to adjust the torque setting, you are simply preloading the scale with a "known" amount of force (weight). When the torque reaches a certain point, the lever, also hidden inside the device, will slip away from the end of the spring, making its clicking noise when it does that. The advantage is You Don't Have to Look; you don't have to move your head into some very uncomfortable position, in order to see the spring scale. Yes they are rather inaccurate, but you can get one real cheap. It is basically an ordinary wrench with a spring scale stuffed inside it. Spring scales are "not legal for trade" but they are accurate enough for most torque setting requirement on threaded fasteners. I would't use one to set the frictional pre-load on a bearing. I use one to tighten the bolts that secure the wheels to my car. With a tire on the ground, and me standing up, with a bendy-beam wrench, as I tighten each bolt and as I go from bolt to bolt, I would have to repeatedly contort my body into a new and different painful position in order to see the scale. With a springy-clicky wrench I can stand in a comfortable position and listen for a click. A springy-clicky is accurate enough for my wheel bolts. With a spec of 80 foot pounds, my wheels won't fall off if the bolts are actually only at 70 foot pounds, and the head won't shear off the bolt if it is actually torqued to 90 ft pounds. Brake rotors won't deform if some of the 4 or 5 bolts on each wheel are torqued to 72 and some are torqued to 88. I wouldn't trust a springy-clicky when torquing down a cylinder head. I use a bendy-beam for that as, with the head in place on the cylinders, I can see the scale quite well without having to contort my body. In my view the best kind of torque wrench is the so-called "deflecting beam" type. Here is a link: www.powerbuilt.com/products/1-2-dr-deflecting-beam-torque-wrench. It is an ordinary bendy beam torque wrench with the addition of a little noise-maker that is triggered once the beam bends to a certain point. So instead of having to look at a scale to see how much the beam has bent, you can listen for a click to hear how much the beam has bent. That is an elegant solution to the problem of sensing how far the beam has bent. It is a solution that is lot simpler and more reliable than using an LCD to read out the resistance of a strain gauge attached to the beam. 50 years ago the sophistication of the metallurgy used in Snap-on's tool steel, their sockets, and their wrench handles, was ahead of that used in cheaper tools, even Proto, and SK. Snap-on tools were stronger even though they were lighter. However other companies have caught up. SOME of the tools made in Asia are just as good, even though they cost much less.Tool steel that is hard as hell. I recently bought a $12 stainless steel chef's knife made in China that is better than my $45 chef's knife made in France in 1985. Neither of them as good as the carbon steel knives made in 1955 - except that the carbon steel will create problems if they aren't cleaned, dried, and put away as soon as you are finished using them.
No, they are not! The quality of sockets and wrenches made in Asia is nowhere near the quality of sockets and wrenches made by Snap-on, Proto, or German Hazet. Besides quality, none of those tools from Asian countries would exist if they didn't completely rip off those tools from western countries. Absolutely none would exist up to this day! I work in one of the City bus service garages of Greater Vancouver on the West Coast of Canada. We have six transit centres and they are building more. We have a fleet of 1,451 buses (40 footers, 60 footers and double deckers), we have shuttle buses, sea buses and 1100 maintenance employees. Whenever I see a returned broken tool in the garage, ratchet, socket, extension, adapter or something like that, the mechanic leaves a note that usually goes like this, "next time better get a Snap-on!" I have never seen a note that goes something like, "next time better get Asian tool" or "next time better get Icon!" The exact day when a company like Snap-on decides to take their production of mechanical tools to China and at the same time decides to lie to the public with bogus information like many companies are doing these days, Snap-on won't be Snap-on anymore. You know, like "assembled in the USA, or made in the USA with global parts". I don't care for other toys that Snap-on is selling under their name, I don't buy them. I don't buy their toolboxes because I know better tool boxes (made in the USA or Canada) for two or three times less expensive, but when it comes to mechanical tools, there is no comparison! What an f. bull shit. Some people are claiming that the first electronic torque wrenches are developed in Taiwan and Snap-on is most likely just putting Snap-on name on those. Snap-on owns three Torque tools specialist companies (CDI, Sturtevant Richmont, and Norbar), why would they use some rip-off toy from Taiwan? Germans patented the first electronic torque tools back in the early 1990s. The Snap-on and Hazet catalogues from the late 1990s are offering electronic torque wrenches. Where the f. was anything like that in any Asian country?
Only reason to unwind wrenches is because of multiple users of the same wrench possibly using it and assuming it is still set from a previous job. No spring at rest ever wore out. Returning a wrench too zero forces the user to set it himself
I HATED SETTING UP DIFFS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! COMPRESSING THE COLLAPSABLE steel washer to get Pinion Drag HEEL AND TOE PINION MUST GO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you talk in feet and pounds you are talking to 3 countries in the world: US, Myanmar, and Liberia. If you talk in metric, you talk to all countries in the world. Incl US science people. One inch is exactly 2.54cm, now.
A couple of the comments said all this was good stuff - maybe it is.. But for me, too much jabba jabba and as slow as a wet week. 8 1/2 minutes and nothing has happened. I'm out of here.
26:53 Accurate ? The one I saw before this video was crap. Used to tighten a nut to 46 then used to loosen it, it read only 32 ! ruclips.net/video/7ddwrcBnoy0/видео.html
Great video however I still don’t understand how the angle reading works on the torque angle wrench.I do my own repairs and oil changes on my crotch rocket myself and I may never need an angle torque wrench I’m guessing
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
I just watched this, excellent info. It surely brought back memories. I worked at a nuclear power plant in Colorado for 23 years. We had our own metrology lab, which basically calibrated everything in the plant. To use a torque wrench, we had to check it out, verify the calibration sticker, perform a bench test on the wrench within the specs called for in the procedure, go use the wrench on the job, then bench test it before zeroing, and put away in the locked cabinet. Whew! For the reactor isolation valves (15 tons each with 5-3 1/2 inch bolt down feet) we used an air driven (essentially a die grinder type air motor) planetary gear torque wrench that had to be moved by crane because it was too heavy. The wrench anchored into the adjacent foot for torquing. At the calibrated 17 lb. Of dry air pressure, the wrench torqued each foot to 25,000 ft.- lbs. When the air motor stalled out, it was torqued! Phenominal!
Great video on a subject that is near and dear to our hearts. In 1924, Walter P. Chrysler was having problems with his aluminum block racing engines. They were blowing up. Chrysler was a great engineer and after watching motor assembly he tracked the problem to the head bolts not being evenly torqued. Chrysler invented the flat beam torque wrench and licensed Paul A. Sturtevant to build the tools. Chrysler was a great engineer and wanted to build cars, not tools. Sturtevant and after the merger with Richmont, Sturtevant Richmont, is the oldest torque tool company in the world. We've been making torque wrenches for more than 90 years. Our name is probably not familiar to you because we build tools for industrial use. Sturtevant and the Richmont companies invented most of the torque tool innovations in the industry. The torque screwdriver, the preset click wrench, interchangeable heads for torque wrenches, adjustable torque wrenches, and torque testers, are all things we take for granted today. Those are some of the inventions that came out of the engineering labs at those two companies.
Great addition to a great video! Thanks!
Thank you for the great history.
I have used a Harbor Freight Clicker type of torque wrench for the last 22 years. I have always stored it with a loose lock nut and at zero pounds. Works well for the price.
I watched the entire series. As always, they were informative, interesting, and well presented. Thank you for sharing. These precision tools will be needed when you rebuild your turbo encabulator.
Thank you very much. I agree!
Thank you very much. I agree!
One of the best videos I've seen on the basics of torque wrenches. I know the dial type are the most accurate. Some diesel engines require dial type when setting injector height adjustments.
Wonderful videos especially looking at not just the automotive transmissions and drive trains but the tools I used before I retired..
Thank you!
I use Snap-On torque wrenches at work, all click type. The wrenches are on an annual calibration program to maintain accuracy. I have to remember about mid-range settings to get the best accurate reading, thanks professor!
d-Nm is Deca-Newton meters. Used a lot by French manufacturers. 1d-Nm is 10Nm.
Another enjoyable series, thanks John.
Thank you very much!
Deci-, not deca-
deca is daN·m
Excellent info and presentation, you're a talented teacher with an excellent voice 👍🏽
One the CTECH and ATECH-B platforms you do not need visual contact on the measurement screen, you can use the LED side lights to alert you to the target set value. You can also set your target set torque or angle values by using the PSET feature for min/target/max values or set up petcentage +/- values in the CONFIGURE menu. The side LED lights will adjust to the settings
Thank you, awesome torque wrenches!
very well made video, concise and informative … thank you …
John, Thanks for reviewing our Snap-on torque wrenches. I would just like to make a couple of comments. The cap issue you described has been addressed in the new ATECHB model. Completely new handle design. Also, the comment you made about not being accurate at the upper end of the scale is a common misconception. Actually, all good torque wrenches are calibrated from 20% to 100% of full scale. Those readings are generally linear, see the readings on the included certificate of calibration. Our digital wrenches will go down to 5% of full scale, but with a different accuracy limit.
Thanks for your feedback, good to know about the upper end scale accuracy.
Beautiful video you never know where you could learn Justin 30 minutes or your life is amazing thank you for all your videos
Thank you!
This guy is very knowledgeable, i like his videos
Thank you!
weber state is in utah right? I go to a school in utah before and wasn't as like this but was an awesome school
Yes, Ogden, Utah
I went to the school in clearfield
The DNM / dNm at 20.15 means deca newton meters ( 10 newton meters )
Thank you, I had never used that unit of measure.
deca is uppercase D. Lowercase d is deci meaning a 10th. So DNm is deca newton meter.
two separate units of measurement that require careful use of the shift key
dNm = deciNewtonmeter or 1/10 of a Newton meter. DNm is a dekaNewtonmeter or 10x a newton meter. you'll also find DecaNewtons shown as daN, so daNm for 10x a newton meter.
decaNewtons are pretty much never used as a measurement of force the same way you never see decameter as a unit of length. however, when in doubt, RTFM.
deca is ten deci is one tenth.... in in newton meters... lingo.... as I recall .
Good job man! Great to be back in auto shop again!
Thank you very Informative
You're welcome
Very informativ ....i love this hystorical videos.
Please....more of that.
Thank you
Thank you for this information ☺️☺️☺️
No problem 😊 Thanks for watching
Most people will come across torque wrenches for the purpose of tightening nuts and bolts. The idea being to give some kind of consistency in the clamping force of the nut and bolt. I've never yet seen bolt tightening torques specify whether the nut and bolt should be dry or well lubricated. So all this talk of accuracy goes completely out of the window if lubrication is not specified. I'd suspect a lubricated nut and bolt would give a clamping force one and a half times that of a dry nut and bolt.
Maybe you can do an experiment on this - compare dry bolt, lubricated threads and finally lubricated threads and bearing surfaces of the nut and bolt.
I have done this. There are charts with specifications for dry torque versus wet torque. Thanks for watching
Thank you for your teaching effort in this video. Still, I wonder: In your experience, which brands and types of torque wrenches seem the most consistently reliable over the long-term? Sure, they all need calibration, but do your checkers find some frequently test as being way off (maybe even needing repair), while others almost always are pretty close to the true values?
Britool wrenches are accurate to +/- 3% over 10,000 uses ,i my opinion quality clicker type wrenches are the best apart from dial type.
Hello & you Sir, make some very good and detailed videos.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Love this video on torque, because it is one of the major issues in manufacturing these days.....and has resulted in torque-to-yeild....
Grrr: I hate torque to yield, but that is the trend.
Worse: On head bolts due you oil or keep "dry".....varies by manufacturer and is a true PINTA b/c the actual torque on fastener can very by a LOT.....grrr.
PS: Electronic torque wrenches, based on "load cells", have much tighter tolerance throughout the torque range. This allows users to buy a 1/4" drive and 1/2" drive set while skipping 3/8"'s. Another advantage to the load-cell wrench is that it can have a swivel point at the head without affecting true torque reading.
Myj opinions, but LOVE your videos and please keep posting.
P
Thank you for your great feedback and additional information. I agree with you 100%
Very educational! Thank you.
nice and professional, thank you!
I was taught by ATG and ATG staff.
I have been using ATG's KTC digital torque wrenches & ATG's Nepros 90 tooth Ratchets.
I use these for doing electron microscopes, cameras and fine vehicles.
Do you use KTC and Nepros?
Well done, John Kelly.
Thank you! No, I only use Snap-On tools because their customer service (In-Person) is fantastic. Thanks for your feedback.
It's funny you 'torquing' about bearing preload. In the last 9 months, I've started watching a few machining channels - and made a comment on one suspecting the guy's lathe spindle bearings are too loose. (He has since tightened them and significantly reduced chatter on his machine.) I believe my lathe spindle bearings are 'about right' re preload. To measure this in any vague way, with the spindle not in any gear and with the standard size 3 jaw chuck key in the chuck facing the operator (i.e. 9 O'clock position looking from the tailstock) that there is enough pre-load on the spindle bearings to prevent the weight of the chuck key from revolving the spindle AND if the spindle is moved (chuck key downwards) the weight of the key is enough to accelerate the rotation.
I noted in the 1980s that in the Snap-On tool catalogue, the torque wrench tester was the most expensive item in the catalogue ! (Which is odd really considering how easy it'd be to make a primitive one out of a large bucket and string and just add the weight of water you wanted to test !)
Thanks for watching
I love this stuff, Thank-You.
Thank you!
I have a few additional questions:
I've been told that the proper units are "pound-feet" and "pound-inches", not "foot-pounds" and "inch-pounds". Which order of the units is correct?
Does having an extension attached to the ratcheting portion affect the torque being measured or applied, since there is more material being twisted?
Great question! Foot-pounds, inch-pounds , and other similar units should have the word "Force" after them. It does not matter which way you arrange foot-pound or pound-foot because you are multiplying them together to obtain the final result. 10 pounds of force x 1 foot = 1 foot x 10 pounds of force. Yes, any extension used while torquing will reduce the effective torque delivered because of the twisting in the extension. I hope that helps.
Extensions will NOT affect torque readings, I have seen a guy on RUclips test something like 11 feet of extensions and the torque reading is exactly the same.
Thank you for the informative video, would you still prefer the dial type vs digital for engine internals and rebuilds?
Great video
The basic question also is should you Brass of kip the Bolt before torque
Thank you! I do not know the answer.
WeberAuto this mean we do not know of the torsie is correct. ! Right?!
Awesome info
Thank you!
Thanks for knowledge! I've seen small stahlwille torque wrench in 'mpk' unit. Did not know what that is,still wondeing...
I do have two questions. First, how does the calibration process look like? How does someone calibrate and fix torque wrench?
Two, I've got offer on Snap-On torquemeter TQ175 fo 35$. How do I inspect it? How one knows if it was overpowered?
We use the Snap-on tool guy to get ours calibrated. He sends them somewhere to get done. Snap-on sells calibration machines, but they are very expensive. I do not know how to tell if one has been overpowered. Maybe you could compare it to a torque wrench that has not been abused and check for similar accuracy. Best wishes
thank you for this ...
Thank you!
Great tutorial thank you. What's our opinion on the split beam torque wrenches?
So..do you ever have to recalibrate a digital torque wrench?
Yes, they still require periodic recalibration. Good question.
Thanks
Thank you!
John, I understood the click style torque wrenches are to be stored at their lowest setting, not at zero.
What's your opinion?
Awesome information, as always!
Mario Dalla Riva alot of torque wrenches do not even have "zero" especially half inch. They usually have 60Nm or close as lowest value.
Hi what is the best brand of torque wrench ??? What do you recommend?? Thanks
The all metal Snap-on are top quality
@@WeberAuto thank you
33:20 'Bearing preload' What you're measuring also includes oil seal friction - so does the manufacturer's spec include oil seal friction too or should the preload be checked before oil seals are fitted ? (I can well believe to refit oil seals, you'd need to unload the bearings again :) )
It does not
I bought the Snap on TE-12 0-250 Inch/lbs for measure the steering gear box for w124 Mercedes. Should this be ok? The MB manual says 110-160 ncm which is 9.7- 14.2 inch lbs. MB use the term "Friction torque from the center" and rotate from stop to stop. "Breakaway" should be similar idea? Thanks
Don't you just hate it when you spend all kinds of money on a nice tool and there's really silly little problems with them? I can only assume they don't give them to 200 pound gorillas like us when they test them in R&D.
You are absolutely correct! Thanks for the feedback.
Can you please tell me what mkp is ?
Cheers
Curt
Best vid I’ve seen on this...., but when the hell are you yanks going to catch with the planet n go metric?
Thank you, probably never.
WeberAuto
😂👍
Lol I could have just say 4 thread charts in me head.., but cause of the great American.... inability to change.., I’ve got about a dozen and all the imp/ met conversion charts as well😂👍
I wouldn't trust any electronic measuring tool. Those torque wrenches will have load cells in them - and as yet, I've not come across one reliable load cell.
Thanks for watching
So thaat's why we don't see many pre. 1960's vehicles on the road, they all fell to pieces without the use of torque wrenches!
20:10 dNm - is obviously deciNewton metre - it's a measure of torque - 1/10 of a Nm. This is elementary metric stuff ! Unless it's DNm - then it's DekaNewton metre which is 10 Nm !
Thanks for the information
Those Snap-on torque wrenches seem ridiculously over-complicated and Snap-on undoubtedly charges too much for them. If you have to WATCH the digital read-out you might as well use a bendy-beam type of torque wrench which are very accurate around the center values and never lose their accuracy, stay accurate until the beam eventually breaks, which even with frequent use probably may not happen in the original user's lifetime. What is being sensed and reported to the digital readout of the snap-on wrench? A strain-gauge will have a different resistance depending upon the amount of deformation of the object it is attached to. From that resistance value a computing chip will deduce torque value and send it to the digital readout. So what is being deformed? Is the digital readout reporting information about the length of a spring inside the unit, similar to the spring that is inside a clicker type of wrench? Is it reporting on the deflection of a bendy beam? Is there some kind of electronic sensor that makes changes in electrical resistance with changes of force upon it, from something else? What is going on with these things? Just because the torque is being reported to a fine degree, on the readout, doesn't mean that the actual torque on the fastener is really being set to within as fine tolerance as the readout is able to report. So digital readouts often provide an ILLUSION of precision, and of accuracy. Would or would not something from Snap-on do something like that? Back to bendy-beam torque wrenches. With a bendy beam wrench, if you see that the pointer is not at zero when the wrench is not wrenching, you can just bend the pointer a bit until it points to zero again. Problem Solved. Make a Pointer Point to Zero Again. MAPPZA. There are 2 ways it can un-zero-fy, become dis-zero-ized, un-zero itself: (1) The wrench gets smacked into something and that bends the pointer stick. (2) The beam gets used so many times, usually with clockwise force on it, and often with a great degree of force on it, bending it to nearly the end of the scale, or even continuing to tighten a fastener even after the pointer has reached the end of the scale, that eventually the beam has become bent a bit. Does this mean it has weakened to the point where you can expect it to break after a few dozen more pulls? I don't know. Could be though, especially if it was bent past the point where the pointer has reached the end of the scale, and then bent back in other direction again. The clicker wrenches are sort of like putting that spring-scale thing you showed us at the beginning, inside the body of the the device. By turning the handle to adjust the torque setting, you are simply preloading the scale with a "known" amount of force (weight). When the torque reaches a certain point, the lever, also hidden inside the device, will slip away from the end of the spring, making its clicking noise when it does that. The advantage is You Don't Have to Look; you don't have to move your head into some very uncomfortable position, in order to see the spring scale. Yes they are rather inaccurate, but you can get one real cheap. It is basically an ordinary wrench with a spring scale stuffed inside it. Spring scales are "not legal for trade" but they are accurate enough for most torque setting requirement on threaded fasteners. I would't use one to set the frictional pre-load on a bearing. I use one to tighten the bolts that secure the wheels to my car. With a tire on the ground, and me standing up, with a bendy-beam wrench, as I tighten each bolt and as I go from bolt to bolt, I would have to repeatedly contort my body into a new and different painful position in order to see the scale. With a springy-clicky wrench I can stand in a comfortable position and listen for a click. A springy-clicky is accurate enough for my wheel bolts. With a spec of 80 foot pounds, my wheels won't fall off if the bolts are actually only at 70 foot pounds, and the head won't shear off the bolt if it is actually torqued to 90 ft pounds. Brake rotors won't deform if some of the 4 or 5 bolts on each wheel are torqued to 72 and some are torqued to 88. I wouldn't trust a springy-clicky when torquing down a cylinder head. I use a bendy-beam for that as, with the head in place on the cylinders, I can see the scale quite well without having to contort my body. In my view the best kind of torque wrench is the so-called "deflecting beam" type. Here is a link: www.powerbuilt.com/products/1-2-dr-deflecting-beam-torque-wrench. It is an ordinary bendy beam torque wrench with the addition of a little noise-maker that is triggered once the beam bends to a certain point. So instead of having to look at a scale to see how much the beam has bent, you can listen for a click to hear how much the beam has bent. That is an elegant solution to the problem of sensing how far the beam has bent. It is a solution that is lot simpler and more reliable than using an LCD to read out the resistance of a strain gauge attached to the beam. 50 years ago the sophistication of the metallurgy used in Snap-on's tool steel, their sockets, and their wrench handles, was ahead of that used in cheaper tools, even Proto, and SK. Snap-on tools were stronger even though they were lighter. However other companies have caught up. SOME of the tools made in Asia are just as good, even though they cost much less.Tool steel that is hard as hell. I recently bought a $12 stainless steel chef's knife made in China that is better than my $45 chef's knife made in France in 1985. Neither of them as good as the carbon steel knives made in 1955 - except that the carbon steel will create problems if they aren't cleaned, dried, and put away as soon as you are finished using them.
No, they are not! The quality of sockets and wrenches made in Asia is nowhere near the quality of sockets and wrenches made by Snap-on, Proto, or German Hazet. Besides quality, none of those tools from Asian countries would exist if they didn't completely rip off those tools from western countries. Absolutely none would exist up to this day!
I work in one of the City bus service garages of Greater Vancouver on the West Coast of Canada. We have six transit centres and they are building more. We have a fleet of 1,451 buses (40 footers, 60 footers and double deckers), we have shuttle buses, sea buses and 1100 maintenance employees.
Whenever I see a returned broken tool in the garage, ratchet, socket, extension, adapter or something like that, the mechanic leaves a note that usually goes like this, "next time better get a Snap-on!" I have never seen a note that goes something like, "next time better get Asian tool" or "next time better get Icon!"
The exact day when a company like Snap-on decides to take their production of mechanical tools to China and at the same time decides to lie to the public with bogus information like many companies are doing these days, Snap-on won't be Snap-on anymore. You know, like "assembled in the USA, or made in the USA with global parts". I don't care for other toys that Snap-on is selling under their name, I don't buy them. I don't buy their toolboxes because I know better tool boxes (made in the USA or Canada) for two or three times less expensive, but when it comes to mechanical tools, there is no comparison!
What an f. bull shit. Some people are claiming that the first electronic torque wrenches are developed in Taiwan and Snap-on is most likely just putting Snap-on name on those. Snap-on owns three Torque tools specialist companies (CDI, Sturtevant Richmont, and Norbar), why would they use some rip-off toy from Taiwan? Germans patented the first electronic torque tools back in the early 1990s. The Snap-on and Hazet catalogues from the late 1990s are offering electronic torque wrenches. Where the f. was anything like that in any Asian country?
It's not worth a stroke. T
Only reason to unwind wrenches is because of multiple users of the same wrench possibly using it and assuming it is still set from a previous job. No spring at rest ever wore out. Returning a wrench too zero forces the user to set it himself
I HATED SETTING UP DIFFS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
COMPRESSING THE COLLAPSABLE steel washer to get Pinion Drag
HEEL AND TOE PINION MUST GO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your feedback!
0
daN.m is deca newton meter = kg .m 👍
+Chandler Bing thank you!
If you talk in feet and pounds you are talking to 3 countries in the world: US, Myanmar, and Liberia.
If you talk in metric, you talk to all countries in the world. Incl US science people.
One inch is exactly 2.54cm, now.
Yes, you are correct. I should have also included metric equivalents. Old habits are hard to break. Thank you for your feedback!
A couple of the comments said all this was good stuff - maybe it is..
But for me, too much jabba jabba and as slow as a wet week. 8 1/2 minutes and nothing has happened.
I'm out of here.
26:53 Accurate ? The one I saw before this video was crap. Used to tighten a nut to 46 then used to loosen it, it read only 32 !
ruclips.net/video/7ddwrcBnoy0/видео.html
This is truly a great video. Thank you John!!!
Great video however I still don’t understand how the angle reading works on the torque angle wrench.I do my own repairs and oil changes on my crotch rocket myself and I may never need an angle torque wrench I’m guessing