The Thermal Detonator Build - Part 2

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  • Опубликовано: 26 дек 2024

Комментарии • 28

  • @Gre4tOne
    @Gre4tOne Год назад

    14:01 attention: with the Arduino clone from AZ delivery you can´t connect it this way - you have to wire it (RT to TX / TX to RX) and only connect the 5V to VCC (not the 3V)

  • @fredbana
    @fredbana 5 месяцев назад

    hello Mark where can i get the Arduino sketch for this project ?

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  5 месяцев назад

      I put a link below the part 2 video. I’ve just checked and it still works. Cheers Mark

  • @Gre4tOne
    @Gre4tOne 11 месяцев назад

    16:40 unfortunately no sound at all / red light is on after turn on the switch but no sound :( Is it possible that the transistor is wrong - it is a C558C PH 5d and the speaker is a 8Ohm 2 W speaker (can I test the speaker otherwise)? thx

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  11 месяцев назад +1

      You need to use a PN 2222A 6E Transistor. The speaker and other parts I have listed in the notes in the video. Also check to see if the sketch has loaded correctly. If you have the LED light working the chances are it has loaded correctly and will be the transistor.

  • @Gre4tOne
    @Gre4tOne Год назад

    470 resistor??? The wiring pictures show 3x 220 Ohm resistors and is not a 140 Ohm resistor enough for a 5mm LED?

  • @B.treveton
    @B.treveton Год назад

    Making this work with an arduino nano clone (the elegoo one) any reason why you dont just use the top switch to to turn the board on and off and then leave your discrete 11 pin unwired so that it always triggers lights and sound as soon as the board powers on? Thats what im doing with mine so theres no need to worry about the power draining or a kill switch. Is there a reason not to do it that way?

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  Год назад

      The kill switch was to stop any drain of the battery as it would always be in standby, as well as if the prop was being transported, it couldn’t accidentally switch itself on, as overtime the top switch can be quite free in the slot. Good luck with your build, the nano is very similar to the pro mini.

  • @optimusprimer762
    @optimusprimer762 2 года назад

    I got this to work, but now it's just lighting up red in the middle of the board when I press the button, any reasons why?

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад +1

      It could be a number of things. The red light on the board means there is power to it. The first thing to check is the battery, recharge the battery. Although there is power getting to the board it may not be enough. If you still have an issue, check the joints on the board for breaches with other solder joints. Because the board is small, you may have a stray wire strand breaching another point on the board. Hope you get it sorted.
      Regards
      Mark

    • @optimusprimer762
      @optimusprimer762 2 года назад

      @@ScaleMarkModels Thank you a ton for answering. Much appreciated sir.

  • @zoequinnjett8660
    @zoequinnjett8660 2 года назад

    What size (watt rating) resistor are you using on the amp?

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад +1

      Hi Zoe. I used an R470 resistor the same as the lighting. Four band resistor yellow, violet, brown and gold.

    • @zoequinnjett8660
      @zoequinnjett8660 2 года назад

      @@ScaleMarkModels Thank you. I did run into a snag. I followed the video and everything was working well until I soldered in the trigger switch. I tried removing it with no difference. The board is getting power but not running properly. However if I power it via the USB (using a nano not pro mini) it works but weakly like it's under powered. Does anyone have any ideas?

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад +1

      @@zoequinnjett8660 I’ve not used the nano. Not sure if you have altered the sketch for the nano, however I didn’t think the nano was capable of data sound format which is why I used the pro mini.

    • @zoequinnjett8660
      @zoequinnjett8660 2 года назад

      @@ScaleMarkModels got it working. Had the power and signal lines backwards on the trigger switch. Blew up 2 nanos but I figured it out lol. Thank you for your assistance and a solid reference/instructions.

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад

      Glad you got it sorted, nice to know it is not just me that does those sort of things. Lol

  • @leew8812
    @leew8812 2 года назад +1

    What's an Ar dun ee oh?

  • @markboyen1118
    @markboyen1118 2 года назад

    hi will you be listing the electronic parts needed for the build thanks i.e sizes , micro switch , red led, speaker e.ct

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад

      I will get a list with the links to where you can get these from in the next couple of days and post them below the video.
      Cheers
      Mark

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад

      Hi Mark
      I have now put up the components used. Any question feel free to ask.
      Regards
      Mark

    • @markboyen1118
      @markboyen1118 2 года назад

      thankyou

    • @markboyen1118
      @markboyen1118 2 года назад

      @@ScaleMarkModels hi mark can you post a link to your code as the one from thr circuit circus my computer wont down load it as it thinks the link or files are unsafe. thanks mark

    • @ScaleMarkModels
      @ScaleMarkModels  2 года назад +1

      Hi Mark
      I’ve put the codes in the fritzing dropbox folder if you needed them.
      Cheers
      Mark