I have had an Echo 58V Hedge Trimmer, Weedwacker, and Blower since 2017. The 2Ah and 4Ah batteries have always been finicky. I've tried running all of the power out of them and rechaging them. I've tried pressing and holding the battery button for 30 seconds. Nothing seemed to make the batteries work as they did when they were new. I've gotten the "Defective" light at the end of every charge cycle for each of my 4 batteries for years. I've filed Warranty Claims for new ones previously on multiple occasions through Echo. This morning, while debating on whether to make the leap to EGO tools, I went down a RUclips Rabbit Hole... and landed on this video. Dan perfectly describes the issue I was facing... charging issues.... not working for long periods in the tools... even if voltage is 57.4 Volts. So, I followed his instructions to a Tee, using a T10-H Screwdriver.. I reset one battery at 51 volts, another at 56.4 volts. I put the clamshells back together, charged them up, and WOW! What a difference! Its almost like my blower is brand new! Using my 4Ah battery, I went from less than 2 minutes on Turbo Mode to 10+ minutes. Also, after using Turbo for 10 straight minutes, the battery was still holding 50 Volts. Problem Solved! $1,100.00 Saved! Dan has a new suscriber now. Thanks Again!
That is awesome to hear and thanks for the kind comments. It is amazing how useful RUclips can be. Years ago, when I thought RUclips, I thought cat videos. :)
I have an Echo 58V Jet Fan that was acting up in late fall '21, just like your saw. As soon as I watched your video, I thought "Game Changer!" It took me no more than 10 minutes to disassemble the battery and replicate what you did with the reset pin. Jet Fan now works like a charm! I just hope it stays fixed. Thanks so much for taking the time to video this and give us such a detailed explanation. Made sense to me!!
Great info ! Another important tip is that a lot of people forget that the battery itself might still be on the warranty. 5 years, if you still have your receipt or if your purchase was registered at your Echo dealer. I have got 2 two of them replaced in the last year.
Glad I found your video. My 58V battery did exactly as you described. It was fully charged, but I performed the reset you showed in the video using a paper clip between the ground and reset and it worked when I put it back in the saw. Thanks for doing the work figuring this out!
nd @@CrashBr0more risk of spark fire, no electrocution risk unless you are touching terminals with your tongue but still good idea to wear gloves to avoid an electrical burn if you dont work with lithium batteries often.
Wow. Thank you so much. You just saved me $150 on a new battery for my Echo leaf blower. Less the $6.99 I paid for a security bit set at Harbor Freight 😂 The leaf blower would not operate more than a couple seconds. On the battery, I would get no lights when pressing the charge status button. The charger would only give me a flashing red light when trying to charge this battery. I disassembled the battery and simply connected the GRD and the RST briefly a couple times. I reassembled the battery, put it in the charger and it is charging fine now! Thanks again!
Thanks for this. For anyone who wants specifics that worked for me: 1) Get a solid 12 - 15V DC source. Car batter or charger. 2) Connect the Positive 12v supply to the large lead on the battery that has the red lead. 3) Connect the Negative of the 12v supply to the other large lead on the batter. It has no color. Let this charge for a few minutes. Disconnect everything. But the battery into the half housing. It should now have enough juice to power the PC board and it starts charging. If it doesn't then you likely have a real honest dead battery that cannot retain a charge anymore. If it does charge, I'd let it charge all the way and then do the reset that the author here shows. I've done all this and it is working. Thanks again for the video. :)
With my packs, I was able to determine that the batteries were ok when I used an external charge/discharge cycle. When I obtained a full charge, I then performed the reset. Thanks.
That could be dangerous. You should always use some sort of current limiting, perhaps just a 5 ohm power resistor to limit at about 2A from the 12V battery. I'm surprised this worked.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k there is an easier way to reset. Just take the battery out of the device and press and hold the battery status button for a few seconds.
This worked great for me, except that I used a 45W/20V computer brick (an old one that actually puts out power when not connected to the same brand of computer). My 58V is charging now. Thank you to both Dan and clasmir5281! I am putting this charger on a timer with power 30min/day to maintain.
Worked perfectly ... thank you! I used my spare battery and hooked it up in parallel (plus to plus and minus to minus) for about 30 seconds then moved it to the charger with just enough voltage (38v) so the charger would recognize the battery. After charging the battery on the factory charger, my blower behaved as the saw at the beginning of the video. Following the video instructions the battery now works like a charm.
That is a clever idea. However, I might be a little concerned about the fully charged battery being able to dump too much current too fast into the dead one. An idea might be to add a high power low resistance resistor in series.
Thanks for the repair ideas. After burning up a 12V charger, I got an inexpensive variable DC power source, and after a charge, did the reset you showed - and the battery works great. Great information.
Thanks so much for this! My 4ah battery has been doing this for over a year and I could never figure out a fix. I was about to send it to the recycling center when I found your video. Worked like a charm. I'm so happy to have my 4ah battery back, the 2ah just hasn't been cutting it.
Thank you. Same thing happened to mine. Brand new battery had 2 full cycles on it. Came back in the spring and would not charge. So I jump started each cell grouping with an old 5.3vdc 500mA(presumably will have constant current at it's rated output???) phone charger with the plug cut off; making sure I always, always have correct polarity on each 2-cell grouping; you will be charging each 2-cell group together. Do not cross the polarity. Once I got all the cells to about 3.1 volts I was able to charge the pack on the Echo charger but still wouldn't run the tools. This reset worked.
Great advice. Especially the guy who mentioned jumping the dead battery, from a sister battery of the same type for 30 seconds. Both worked for me. Has to be a significant design flaw on their part as I've gone through two warranties to date on both batteries, same issue, prior.
Thank you. You are awesome for both the video and for replying to so many comments. So, I have two of these poorly designed batteries - Echo should be embarrassed. On one, I had exactly the same issue as yours in the video and sure enough the reset worked. Halleluiah! The battery doesn't last as long as it used to but hey, it does recharge fairly quickly. I did find that if I drain the battery completely, it won't charge in the charger and I have to disassemble and reset again and so far that continues to work. The second battery, I wasn't so fortunate. I charged it and was able to get one light on the status indicator and then when I took it off the charger it showed nothing and resetting did nothing. I have concluded this one is truly dead - it is the older of the two. Again, thank you.
Thanks for the kind comments. I agree, this battery and charger combination is a poor design. Good to hear that the video helped with one of your batteries.
My pack is 7 years old. The board does have the stuff that he says is missing on his. Many good seasons. A replacement?...$190!. May see if I can replace the cells. 7 years is probably all we gonna get on Lithium?
Thanks so much for this video. My battery was already fully charged so all I had to do was the reset with the tweezers and it did the trick. Much appreciated!!
Sad part is TTI makes these batteries, same clowns that make Milwaukee and ryobi batteries among others. All of these batteries dont have on board BMS that can balance the cells. Its either a space saving or just made to fail design. A lot of folks also use TTI batteries outside of tools and dont realize you can fully drain them below the safe working voltage of the lipo cells. Great video overall, I have rebuilt some of these packs from the ground up with an echo chainsaw I got for free, I think the 2ah batteries are just too weak and the saw works but keeps turning off under load. The board for the 2ah and 4ah batteries are the same, so my next step will be to build the other 2ah pack I have with 2x the cells. The case was literally empty with empty space in the 2ah vs 4 ah.
I was really surprised when I saw that there was no cell balancing implemented in the unit I took apart. Trying to save a buck in a couple of hundred dollar battery pack is nuts.
Good video. I used a little 12v power supply and added 2 flat crimp adapters on them. Plugged that into the battery on the negative and positive. This is with battery all intact. I then let it charge and tested off and by validating on the battery charger itself. It would stay on testing until the battery was over 25v at which point the echo charger began charging on its own. Cost me 0 dollars to do this.
Thanks was just able to revive my 2nd battery after 3+ years. I used a car charger with 2 screwdrivers stuck in the battery terminals. Let it charge for a period until it show a red light when pushing the button. Stuck it in the official battery charger overnight and now the battery works in my blower. You can reset the battery by pulling it out of charger and pushing button for 5+ seconds. Stick it back in charger and it should be reset.
@@JT-zb2km No need to open battery. You just need to connect power to the positive and negative terminals that are marked on the battery. I did this by sticking a flat screwdriver in the positive and negative battery terminal. I used a car battery charger and clamped the charger clamp on each screwdriver. I highly recommend doing this in the open. Also, plug in the charger after you have made the connections. My charger was set to 10amps for the charge. It needed about 15 minutes to charge.
But this is ridiculous, it's a great video absolutely. most people don't have this set up and shouldn't have to go through all this trouble just to get a damn battery to work.
Thanks for saving me $200! I took mine apart several times to dry out water and it did the same thing, I didn't see the reset on the board. I just tried it and everything works like normal
Thank you for this video. I had a battery with the same problem. Its been sitting on the shelf for almost 2 yrs and was about to toss it until I found your video. I decided to try just doing the reset first before I go any further and amazingly it worked!!! 😀 thank you again
I have this same chainsaw, and after using it a few days ago, down to about 2-3 charge lights, I put it on the charger, but after a few hours it was still showing the charge indicator flashing about 3 bars. I'll try running it in the saw (once things dry up after a lot of rain), and I'll see how well it works. Your video gives me hope it might be easily fixed with a PIC reset. I was going to buy another battery for $150 on eBay, and even if I get this back to normal, I will probably buy that to swap out while charging. I have a LOT of trees down after recent storms. Thanks!
Apparently my problem is with the charger. I charged the battery to the full 58 VDC using a current limited lab supply, along with a 2 ohm power resistor, at 1 amp. The battery gauge reads full four bars, but the charger keeps blinking like it's trying to charge. If I find what's wrong and fix it, maybe I'll make a video. Thanks.
Great video! Hoping you can help me with my question. My battery has no LED lights that light when I press the button. When I put it on the charger red light blinks, then turns solid (defective). Took the battery apart and reset per your video. When I put it in the charger now it just always says "evaluating" (blinking red light on charger). Any other tricks I can try? TIA!
Thanks. What is the voltage of the battery? If you leave it on the charger for say an hour and then measure it, what do you get? When you performed the reset, what was the battery voltage?
I applied the charging voltage to the +/- terminals (2:28 in the video). I just used a piece of thin metal (I used ring terminals) and inserted into the +/- battery slots. Used alligator clips from the power supply to the ring terminals. Hope that helps.
Hello Dan...I had two of these 58V Echo packs totally go TU over the winter due to discharge and probably cold temps. I just changed out all 28 cells in the two batteries, did the reset and each can take a charge to 58V....but I have the same exact symptom as you showed at the beginning with the two second run time and cutoff regardless of tool. Thanks for the vid, I will keep looking unless you have any words of wisdom. cheers
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Yes, I reset them exactly as you showed. I can tell that it made a difference because the charge status light would just blink even at fully-charged; now they show four bars. I measure 58V at the terminals, but still one-second run time on all tools. Thanks
I have a small 12v battery charger that detects what type of battery its connected to before charging. Would I be able to use it with some contacts in the battery to get it charged enough to reset using the video method?
If your device (saw, blower, weed whacker, etc.,...) starts and stops like yours did, you can just take the battery out, press and hold the check battery button for a few seconds and release it. When you do the battery status light will flash and then reset. Your battery should work fine. This doesn't help with the charging but it can help you from having to take the battery pack apart and putting it back together.
Interesting info. Where did you find out about long press on check battery? I'll have to try it next time my work associate brings in his battery. With the reset on the board, it appears to work best when battery is fully charged.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I had the short run and shut off after I let my battery run down then fully charged. I opened a tech call with Echo and they told me about it. I currently have a fully discharged battery which is how I came across your video. I don't have a nice charging unit like you so I'm not sure how I can get an initial charge to get the regular charger to start working.
You might be able to find a AC/DC adapter (wall wart) with a pretty high voltage that could jump start the battery and insert a series resistor between the AC/DC adapter to limit current. 48VDC AC/DC adapters are pretty common (used with PoE Ethernet). Maybe a 200 ohm 10W resistor in series.
Sorry, I do not have any experience with Ryobi batteries. I just bought into the EGO ecosystem and got a trimmer and leaf blower. Hopefully, their batteries are better and I do not have to make a video :)
My 58V20 Echo battery appeared to drain down to 2.6V sitting for months IN the charger. Based on this video and comments, I tried charging the battery manually with +35V without disassembly. The current draw started at >0.5 A and then gradually decreased as the voltage difference got smaller. I waited until 0.06A and then measured +33V on the battery. I placed the battery back into the Echo charger and it started charging again (green blinking light instead of red. However, it then stopped charging at 2 of 4 orange LED lights with the charger now blinking Red., and the battery voltage reading 51.7 V. I then opened up the battery shell and verified that the individual cell voltages were uniform (3.68-3.70 V). Hence the halted charging problem was not due to a bad cell. I then did the Reset trick to clear the non-volatile memory, reassembled the battery, stuck it back into the charger and indeed it continued to charge the rest of the way to >57V.
Thanks for the information. Really does seem that there are major bugs/problems with firmware in this battery pack that end up in the user buying a new pack when it is actually still good.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k For those of us with the 2ah battery, what would be the appropriate charging voltage and amperage to set on the power supply? Sounds like 30v 1a might be enough to get it to recognize on the charger and it take over. Then reset as @alsjon1 did and let the charger finish it off.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k thanks so much for the response and revealing this trick. I ended up setting the power supply to 30v C-V and the amperage started around 0.5a and surprisingly backed off pretty quickly. The battery was measuring 30v in no time, which was surprising considering how low the amperage was reading. Either way I topped it up to around 40v, did the manual reset, and the Echo charger immediately recognized and charged the battery to full. My string trimmer, in a quick test, ran without pauses. Wondering if setting to 0.5a C-C and watching for the battery to reach ~30v is the better play?
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Dan, what’s an inexpensive way to get the initial charge before reset? In other words what charger or other device will charge my battery so it communicates with the charger?
It sounds in the video like you are saying you pulsed the reset pin with the ground. I see in your instructions it says you pulled it low. Can you explain further what you are doing at that step? Thanks, Tom
The reset input line to the processor is tied to the processor power supply through a resistor (sometimes 10Kohm) and if measured would be approximately 3.3V. To reset the processor, this input needs to be momentarily connected to ground and this is usually done by shorting the pin to ground.
Thank you for your video. I have 6 58v Echo batteries, and I have revived 4 of them now by resetting them. I have 2 that are fully discharged so I need to charge them first. I have a power supply that is adjustable up to 30v and 10amps. Where/how do I recharge the cells??
Is the power supply capable of 10A or does it have ability to current limit? If it can current limit, I might set it to 0.5A at 30V and watch the pack voltage for an hour or two. If you see the voltage starting to increase, that would typically mean the battery is starting to take a charge. Possibly charging the battery to 30V might allow the Echo charger to take over.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I can current limit. It seems to not take any current if simply applying voltage to the 2 main terminals…I kind of assumed that meant one of the smaller terminals might need to be powered up also. But by your reply it seems not. I will leave the power supply connected for a period of time and see what happens. Thanks !
@@DanPattenAudioG33k well update on battery 1: would not accept any charge. Opened it up, tested the cells, most were around 1 volt, 3 were at 0. I think this one is a gonner! Off to battery #2!
Thanks for the video Dan. My battery (58v 2ah) is giving me trouble. All cells are reading ~3.9v, but when I put it on the charger it’ll either flash for a few seconds and go to solid red (defective), or flash red for a few seconds, flash green for a few seconds (fan kicks on for fast charge), and then go to solid red. Overall battery voltage is 54.9v. I tried resetting the battery by holding the button for 5+ seconds and using the tweezer. No matter what it just does the same thing. Battery indicates 3/4 charge on the indicator lights, but will only power up my trimmer for a second and then shut off. Any thoughts on what else I might do to make This charge? Seems like the battery isn’t resetting to me but who can say
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thanks for the suggestion Dan. I ended up getting the battery to charge fully and now the trimmer is working as it should. I suspect something is up with my charger, but I don't know for sure.
Have been trying this solution and hoped it would work for me, but my bench supply will not draw a constant (or any) current into the battery. Battery status is very weak at around 4volts total. Bench supply set at 57.4v and 1amp max current. I left this previously good batt in a mower unit for 3 months, now too low and no longer charges. Any suggestions?
Maybe a dumb suggestion... Are you sure you are on battery terminals (not communication)? Also, maybe reduce current and while monitoring, let try charging for a day. Other than that, maybe there are dead cells.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes def on battery terminals, have reduced current and tried as suggested already. Thanks for responding. Just picked up a used replacement from marketplace in the meantime. just cant see why its not taking a charge, seems unlikely a cell will go bad in such a short space of time when unused. Maybe my cheap bench supply is not seeing the load.
Does seem like an odd failure. That is one of the problems with lithium batteries, they can fail if they discharge to zero and sit for a long time. They will refuse to take a charge. Past company I worked for used a lithium battery where the built in BMS board would drain the pack. So the pack would discharge sitting on the shelf and nothing would bring them back.
so how can I charge my battery without a good charger. if i use a ac battery charger what voltage and ampere could I use? Is there a way to fix the charger? Thank you
I have suggested to a couple of others in these comments that you could possibly use a POE (power over Ethernet) adapter 48v and a current limiting resistor. No, I do not think you can fix the charger because it is mostly a coding issue.
We have a 2AH 58V blower. It started having a similar issue described here. It would run for a few minutes then cut off. Releasing and pressing the button would cause the blower to run again for a few minutes but cut off again. You could continue to do this until the blower would no longer come on. We’ve tested the battery and fully charged shows 58V. We performed the steps described in this video. Unfortunately, the battery still has the same issue and won’t run continuously. Any hints as to what to try next?
Is it a possibility that you have a dead cell in the battery pack? It is a pain, but the voltage on each cell can be individually tested. Using Echo charger, charge to full capacity and measure individual cells.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thank you. I appreciate the info. I’ve looked a videos showing how to test the cells. We could probably accomplish that, but not sure that we could change the cell if in fact one or more is bad. It doesn’t look simple. I know of no local battery repair business. At this point we may just bite the bullet and buy a new blower. Sad that a perfectly good blower goes ro the landfill just because of a bad battery. Oh well. That seems to be the way things are in today’s world. Thanks again.
I have a similar battery from AEG, 58v, 4 amp. The battery is good, can still take current from an external source but the circuit board differs slightly from the Echo, - I don't have a GND on my 5 pin header, so I am unsure which two to ground. I have CLK, DIO, RST, 3.3V and B- Any Thoughts Dan? Can email a photo if that helps.
good afternoon, I have the same battery, the problem is that it does not charge, the red LED flashes on the charger, I did a reset but nothing helped, the batteries are fine, what could be the problem
This is a great video. My battery charges to 2 lights on the battery, then it reads as defective.If I do the fix you did, would my battery charge to full again? What type of screwdriver do you need to open up the battery?.
I think a key point is to not let the battery drain down to zero when in storage. For example if not used in the winter, charge it a couple of times. I would also not leave the battery on the charger after it is charged.
Thanks for the video, looks like AEG (Australia) have the same battery, showed a faulty battery light and wouldn't charge, but had 51 volt charge remaining. I didn't have the facility to charge and discharge as shown in the battery so went straight to the reset of reset+ground. The mainboard on the battery is the same as the echo (according to my novice look) Status button then worked showing the battery had discharged down to 2 lights when it stopped working, now on the charger and charging. This is the third battery I have had replaced under warranty, 3 years here, and this one failed at 40 months. I can only suggest one reason the balancing and higher voltage charging in built into the battery :-)
It is crazy that some packs have the balance resistors and others do not. Since you pack has the balance resistors which should be safer and more reliable, maybe you could try charging at a low current for a while and see if those low voltage cells come up.
Great video! What suggestion would you have for those of us with a less than basic understanding of electricity as a solution for charging manually? I have no equipment to do that. I do have tweezers, however. 🙂
Charging lithium batteries requires very specific voltage and current requirements. Not adhering to these specific requirements can be dangerous. You really need a power supply that can be operated in CC (Constant Current) mode and where a max voltage can be specified. There are 60V variable supplies on Amazon that are little less than $100 that should work. Tweezers are a good start :)
I picked up a cheap 60V power supply to try this but it won't allow me to set the 57.40V @ 1.00A on this unit. Instead I have to charge current limited at 1.00A as the voltage steadily increases....Does this sound correct? I am also checking the temperatures every so often. Is there a temperature threshold where I should be worried about?
I think I already figured out that I need to pre-set the power supply to 57.40V @ 1.00A then connect it to the battery so it will incrementally charge the battery to the pre-set voltage limit (57.40V) at a constant current of 1.00A. I am not liking the sparks I get when connecting it. Gonna wear rubber gloves.
I think you have got it. You want to set the maximum voltage and maximum current. Depending on the power supply, this might have to be done without the battery connected. With a battery that is discharged, when you first attach the battery, the current will max out and the voltage will be below the set point. Current will be at max till the voltage setpoint has been reached. Once the max voltage has been reached, the battery is done charging and should be removed from the supply. You might consider charging at a lower current just to be on the safe side :)
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thank you for the reply. Currently I am debating whether to purchase another power supply after I returned the first one because it seemed to stop working. Also, of the two batteries I got to charge, one of them has already stopped charging again. I may look more into the feasibility of testing and replacing individual cells but for now it seems a bit beyond my capabilities and understanding. Is there any advice you could provide on replacing cells in these batteries?
My battery had 3 bars, worked fine, but charger said defective. Tried reset, charger still says defective. Does that mean charger is malfunctioning? Also did you build your equipment or is that something premade?
You may have a failed cell in the pack. Key to determining if the pack is bad is to charge the pack outside of the Echo charger . However, this external charger still needs to be lithium battery charge compliant to do this safely. I used an off-the-shelf power supply that is capable of appropriate voltages and can be programmed for proper lithium battery charging.
I charged the battery with a lab benchtop power supply. Not really a charger but a general purpose power supply that can be configured as a charger. It is a Rigol DP832.
Mine came new discharged and only a red blinking light on the charger and wont charge the battery, will a simple reset work on the battery and then charge in the battery pack or does it first have to be charged first before the reset.? I dont have a fancy charge/discharge thing like you do.
Not sure if the reset will fix the issue on a fully discharged battery. I did not try that scenario. If the unit is new, I would probably return it under warranty before taking it apart.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thanks Dan, I returned it and got an exchange, the second one had the same issue so returned it also and got a refund, not sure if I will be buying anything ECHO after knowing these issues now.
Hello. Can you check the voltages between the pins on the battery output? I have a problem my AEG I have replaced the cells with new ones, the voltages are equal, I have done a reset and the battery displays the state of charge. When plugged into the charger the red LED flashes and does not charge. Power tools shut down after a few seconds despite correct voltage.... I measure resistance between GND, and temperature sensor. I have 18,80Ohm. Does anyone know if the batteries from ECHO are compatible with AEG? Design, number of electronics and voltage, quantity cells is the same... I don't know if the electronics are damaged, and I'm curious if by applying voltage from the inverter between the pin using an active balancer you can fool the electronics and start the AEG on a non-original battery. Maybe you have some experience with this?
Thanks for sharing, but unfortunately, this reset did not work for me. My Echo 58V battery has been in storage for about a year. Today I put the Echo 58V battery into the Echo trimmer to trim some grass. I checked battery status it shows 3 LED light levels remaining. But the trimmer only worked for about 5 or 7 minutes, then stopped - apparently out of battery. Now the batter won't charge no matter what I do - including tried your re-set method. Upon resetting, It actually showed it was charging, for about 15 minutes or so charging, the green LED becomes solid indicating a full charge. But put this battery into the trimmer, it spins less than 10 seconds then it stops, this means not charged, press battery test only 1 LED blinks. Put the battery back onto the charger, charger shows solid green - indicating fully charged, but actually not.
With the packs I worked with, the battery needs to be fully charged when the reset is performed. In my packs, the controller IC was out of sync with what the pack was really doing. I needed to charge the pack without using the manufacturer's charger and then reset the pack.
IMO the most likely scenario with your battery is that at least one of the 28 cells (14 parallel pairs connected in series) has failed and has become the weak link in your chain. After some searching I found someone in Australia who can replace the individual cells (they have spot welded end connections) so you maybe able to as well. Unfortunately it is difficult to predict with an older battery whether other cells are about to fail as well so it may not be worth the trouble. In my case I know the battery is quite new so am willing to take the chance that all the other cells have a good life left in them.
Great info. What contacts did you connect to, to charge the battery? I'll rewatch The video in case you showed it. What can be done with 13 working batteries. Seems like a waste just recycling the entire pack.
Thanks. I do not have any experience with Kobalt. This fix was for a friends saw. Little over a year ago, I got into the EGO ecosystem and have several of their tools. So far so good.
So I'm not an electronics guy but I got my 58 volt echo weed eater battery working after it stopped working over the winter. All I did was put it in my weed eater and cycled it from turtle mode to rabbit mode until it started running. I ran the the battery down and it is now charging perfectly.
At 5:39, I describe the P1 connector on the circuit board. The microprocessor's configuration memory is reset when the P1 connector pin/hole labeled RST (Reset) is momentarily connected to GND (ground). Simply take a short length of wire (could be a paper clip) and connect these two points together momentarily (approximately a second) and remove.
I performed the reset on a fully charged battery pack. Did not try it on a discharged pack. Not sure this "fix" will work on a dead pack but probably no harm in trying it (since your battery is probably no working anyway). Hope this helps.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes i think the threshold is around 55+ volts reset and charging will take place. Unfortunately the pack I'm working I charged up to 56v and the reset didn't work. I took a reading and had only 29 volts. So now I'm going to try to figure out the battery pack and figure out what else could be wrong. The charger is new and I charged other 58v batteries without issue. This one has stumped my mind. Thank you I know you're busy.
What is the blue and green wires for? I want to use my 58v ebike battery in a backpack but I'm not sure if my BMS is compatible if the motor is using an internal controller that communicates with the BMS how can I bypass this?
It looks like there might be a couple of versions of this battery pack. I just noticed a picture of another Echo battery that has the cell balancing components loaded. Interesting. The packs I have examined do not really have a full BMS implemented. Just looks like total pack voltage and in/out current is monitored through the blue and green wires. Hope that helps. Thanks.
I do not. Sorry. Was actually fixing these packs for a friend and do not have them right now. Maybe, I could get them back and probe the communication lines.
I did not fully investigate the communication between the charger and the pack. I have assumed that it might be I2C as that is what appears to be on the P1 connector.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k inside the trimmer the wires are twisted. I think that woud not be the case with i2c. Do you have a scope at hand? I rest the bms, still cutting out.(
I do have a scope but do not have the battery packs. Was fixing these for a friend. I'll see if I can get one back and look at the communication lines.
A typical lithium battery like this charges at 4.1V per cell. 4.1V x 14 cells = 57.4V. I would not exceed this voltage. In my opinion, exceeding 57.4V can be dangerous.
When I bought my Echo trimmer I got it home and charged the battery and it did the same thing. Ran for a second and quit. After charging it over and the same thing it happened again so I brought it back. Same thing! After bringing 2 trimmers back to Home Depot I called echo. They told me to press the button on the battery for several second so it resets and all was fine. Now after the battery was one month out of warranty it goes bad and won't charge. Took it apart and did the internal reset thing and it worked but only once so I'm thinking a bad cell. But if it's just a new unit and doing the same thing run/stop hold the exterior button down to reset and you should be fine. The manual said nothing about it so I informed the Home Depot where I bought it from.
I had no luck after contacting AEG about similar issue, they said it's faulty, out of warranty, and cannot help me. no mention of reset. so unkind. thanks for your tip. I'll try it.
I've got AEG batteries which look suspiciously like your ones. I've had like 4 batteries with presumably the same issue. Just wondering if leaving these on charge too long could negatively affect them
In my opinion it is typically not a good idea to leave batteries on any charger for a long time. Some chargers do not properly shutoff after charging and this can result in overcharging the battery. I did not look at this charger to see what it did after charge termination. Thanks.
Not that I am aware of. One problem with servicing the battery packs is they can not be shipped by air and package should be marked as containing lithium battery pack. Is your battery pack experiencing the same problem?
nice presentation. now maybe you or your followers have an idea what could be the issue if the battery pack is 58v but it will not discharge or run a tool. what could be the problem? anybody? besides me.
My problem had similar evidence. I knew the battery was charged but it would not run the tool. I was able to charge and discharge the battery without the tool, so I know it worked. There are possible other reasons that could cause a similar scenario. Mine was a simple reset of the processor.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k hello sir and thank you for you quick reply. Well I tried the reset & ground jump but same results. I have the first Led flashing on and off quickly before and after jumping.
This fix is for a very specific problem with this battery pack. There could be many different problems that could cause the battery pack to not work properly. I could not guarantee that this "fix" would work with your pack. I could try this simple fix but if it does not work, I do not have time to further diagnose.
@@DareToBeatbox The two pins your are momentarily connecting is at 3.3V to ground. So no :). That being said, if something catastrophic has happened to the pack, there is very remote possibility of higher voltage.
Just bought a brand new one. It shows charged, doesn't work at all. I'm going to check the voltage, but also it's going back to the Echo dealer first thing in the morning.
UGG! I looked at the battery closely, someone has already been in there with a dirty torx and three silver caps are missing (screw covers on top). It's showing four lights, but won't power the saw and the charger says it's charged. DVOM says it has 57.73 volts! WTF?
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Yes, I made sure the company knew that I knew they'd apparently had to do a reset on the battery because it was older stock. It was their last of the "old model". I was glad to get it with the old price. But I didn't want any flack over a battery warranty and they said they'd make a note of it. Had they used a clean torx bit and replaced all the silver caps--I might have never known. Saw is great though, that little chain is flying through the seasoned white oak logs I'm cutting for firewood. I can cut a little wood every evening and not reek of 2-stroke exhaust now. Save my 2-strokes for all day wood cutting.
Hi, My battery is on 53 volts and also wont run my blower for more than a few seconds and also wont charge. I don't have another way to charge it up to 58v, so I did the reset anyway but still wont work or charge. Do you think charging it up to 58v and then doing the reset will fix the problem?
Both batteries that I "fixed" :) were charged to 57.4V when I performed the reset. I can not guarantee it (your pack might have other problems) but I think performing the reset at full charge is key.
I bought 3 of these chainsaws, chargers, and 4 batteries. They all do the same thing even though the charger for mine does say it is charging and meter lights to go up. All of them run for a few seconds then stop. If you wait for a minute you can do it again and again. We keep doing it till we get down to 2 lights and it gets worse then switch out and charge them back up. We don't cut trees down but this is no way to use a chainsaw for even one cuit and much worse in the winter. I will try this method with all my batteries but get a funny feeling the reset will only last for one use. Wonder if that has happen to anyone or if it permanently fixed the battery. We tried the reset option that others mentioned by pulling the battery and holding the battery button down till the lights flash but that does not help any. All the batteries worked at first but quickly started doing this stopping thing. I believe they should have populated the circuity to work properly as mentioned. Calling Echo was no help. I will update if this option works for more than one cycle.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Well I reset 2 and they still do the same thing. 1 seemed better for a bit. They run for a few seconds then stop. They show full charge and can use them with pauses but not practical. I don't understand how I can have 3 chargers and 4 batteries and be the only one with this particular problem. At the beginning of your video where you pull the trigger and the saw goes for a minute than stops that is exactly what mine does reset or not. Going to drill a hole in the side of this one for on the go reset since they are pretty much useless anyhow. Between 3 saws, 3 chargers, and 4 batteries I have over $1200 of pretty new useless garbage.
Maybe I am doing it wrong but generally pretty good at fixing just about anything. This third pack reads 56.2v fully charged and all the individual cells read pretty even at 4 to 4.1v. That adds up and none read bad but am I supposed to discharge all the way and recharge to try and get closer to 58v?
Thanks. In the comments for this video, I have made a few suggestions of possible budget method. Cut and paste here: You might be able to accomplish similar results with a 48VDC AC/DC power supply. These are common for POE (Power Over Ethernet) devices. Insert a series 200 ohm power resistor (25W or larger) to limit the current. Assuming you have a multi-meter to monitor voltages/current and maybe $30 of parts from Amazon, you might be able to do it. Be careful and your mileage might vary :)
You might be able to accomplish similar results with a 48VDC AC/DC power supply. These are common for POE (Power Over Ethernet) devices. Insert a series 200 ohm power resistor (25W or larger) to limit the current. Assuming you have a multi-meter to monitor voltages/current and maybe $30 of parts from Amazon, you might be able to do it. Be careful and your mileage might vary :)
I tried this exactly as shown. It does not work. For the amount of time I spent, it's more cost-effective to just buy a refurb'd battery, or better yet - retire this terrible Echo.
Better yet, just avoid Echo products completely. I dumped a lot of money into their chain saw and hedge trimmer. The appliances themselves aren't too bad - but the battery packs are an obvious scam - they break instantly for no reason and they cost over $200. Obviously they are carefully designed to separate suckers from their money. Echo is Chinese scam-bait that isn't worth what it costs in either the short or long term.
My only experience with Echo has been this chainsaw and have not been impressed with the battery. This chainsaw is a co-workers, so I do not personally own it. I purchased a Ego chainsaw about a year ago and have not had any problems with it (so far) :)
@@DanPattenAudioG33k If it weren't for the batteries it would actually be a OK little saw. I wouldn't use it for felling trees or anything, but it's ok for trimming kindling and firewood that doesn't fit in the stove; stuff where the gas fed saw is overkill or just too loud. I've cut 10" to 12" logs with it without any trouble. The batteries are the deal killer.
It's a real shame. I have been an Echo fan for as long as I can remember. They make some of the best small 2 stroke engines. I got rid of my gas Echo trimmer when I got the 58V trimmer thinking it would serve me for years. I'm glad I didn't have a chance to swap the chainsaw before the battery issues started. I have since switched to Ego for my trimmer and I am happy so far. The trimmer is lighter so easier to maneuver. Not commercial/professional grade but ideal for residential use. Ego seems to offer much better support for their products and have been innovating their entire line of battery powered lawn equipment. I still love Echo gas powered equipment but this has left a bad taste in my mouth.
Sorry you did not like the video... What hidden screws are you referring to? I do talk about the 4 screws under the covers on the top. I am not aware of any other screws.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I might have missed you mentioning the 4 screws under the plastic caps on top of the battery but it would have been better if you showed them to veiwers.
On the contrary, IMO Dan has done an excellent job on the video and explained everything in the minutest detail for the batteries he fixed. Yes he owns a fairly flash power supply (that I am very jealous of) but why is that a fault. Dan doesn't receive any monetary reward for his efforts that I know of and should be congratulated for his good work especially since I see that he comes back here and repeatedly answers questions he has already explained in the video. The AEG battery pack has the same internals as the ECHO but I suspect the AEG charger is a better unit. The AEG pack has the 4 top screws covered by little plastic caps, they serve no purpose except that because they are very difficult to remove without damaging them they indicate whether someone has previously taken the pack apart or not. AEG don't seem to repair any of their products in Australia, a relative had a near new pack that wasn't under warranty because he was the 2nd owner but AEG wouldn't even look at it. They told us the only option was to buy a new battery at $300! The pack would only run for a few minutes from fully charged before shutting down. After resting for a few seconds it would then work for a short time before shutting down again. I found Dan's video and tried resetting the pack but it didn't help. All the cells are connected in parallel pairs and each pair was measuring 4.05 V except one at 3.8 V so it was obviously the weak link in the chain and the BMS was shutting down the whole pack because of it. The cells have spot welded connections so I can't replace them however I have found a repairer who can and will get them to do it for me. The repairer said he can't offer any warranty because of the unknowns of the BMS circuit board but I will take that chance. I will report back with my success or failure in a month or so (the repairer is a long way away).
@@greglahey3071 The video was OK for me but the thrifty toolshop did a really good one. Personally, I wouldn't,t never buy the AEG 58v again (or echo). They are too expensive, unreliable, difficult to fix and have poor customer service. ( AEG anyway ). Got a EGO electric blower, no problems and I, 'll stick with my Honda gas trimmer.
@@ismoinkinen1591 Yes AEG in Australia didn't want anything to do with me either, they told me to find the receipt to have it replaced under warranty or just buy a new one. My regular power tool repairer wasn't interested, they just didn't work on Lithium battery packs but I eventually found someone who was happy to replace my failed cell so long as I would take responsibility for the BMS so I am going to go down that path when I can deliver it to him. As a matter of interest the AEG brand is owned by Techtronics Industries who also own Ryobi and Milwaukee so I guess we can expect similar treatment from them as well.
I have had an Echo 58V Hedge Trimmer, Weedwacker, and Blower since 2017. The 2Ah and 4Ah batteries have always been finicky. I've tried running all of the power out of them and rechaging them. I've tried pressing and holding the battery button for 30 seconds. Nothing seemed to make the batteries work as they did when they were new. I've gotten the "Defective" light at the end of every charge cycle for each of my 4 batteries for years. I've filed Warranty Claims for new ones previously on multiple occasions through Echo. This morning, while debating on whether to make the leap to EGO tools, I went down a RUclips Rabbit Hole... and landed on this video. Dan perfectly describes the issue I was facing... charging issues.... not working for long periods in the tools... even if voltage is 57.4 Volts. So, I followed his instructions to a Tee, using a T10-H Screwdriver.. I reset one battery at 51 volts, another at 56.4 volts. I put the clamshells back together, charged them up, and WOW! What a difference! Its almost like my blower is brand new! Using my 4Ah battery, I went from less than 2 minutes on Turbo Mode to 10+ minutes. Also, after using Turbo for 10 straight minutes, the battery was still holding 50 Volts. Problem Solved! $1,100.00 Saved! Dan has a new suscriber now. Thanks Again!
That is awesome to hear and thanks for the kind comments. It is amazing how useful RUclips can be. Years ago, when I thought RUclips, I thought cat videos. :)
You sir, are a hero! Was a minute away from buying another $200 battery. This worked as advertised. Thank you!
Thanks for kind comments. Glad it helped.
I can not recall the last time I actually logged into youtube! But you Sir deserve a thumbs up and a positive comment! Thanks man!
Thanks for the kind comments. Glad the video was useful.
I have an Echo 58V Jet Fan that was acting up in late fall '21, just like your saw. As soon as I watched your video, I thought "Game Changer!" It took me no more than 10 minutes to disassemble the battery and replicate what you did with the reset pin. Jet Fan now works like a charm! I just hope it stays fixed. Thanks so much for taking the time to video this and give us such a detailed explanation. Made sense to me!!
My associate's battery that I showed in this video is still working and it has almost been a year. Good to hear it worked for you. Thanks.
Great info ! Another important tip is that a lot of people forget that the battery itself might still be on the warranty. 5 years, if you still have your receipt or if your purchase was registered at your Echo dealer. I have got 2 two of them replaced in the last year.
A good tip.
Glad I found your video. My 58V battery did exactly as you described. It was fully charged, but I performed the reset you showed in the video using a paper clip between the ground and reset and it worked when I put it back in the saw. Thanks for doing the work figuring this out!
Awesome. Glad it helped.
Is there any precautions I should take while doing this? Don't want to electrocute myself. I hear 1 amp is enough to do harm?
nd @@CrashBr0more risk of spark fire, no electrocution risk unless you are touching terminals with your tongue but still good idea to wear gloves to avoid an electrical burn if you dont work with lithium batteries often.
Wow. Thank you so much. You just saved me $150 on a new battery for my Echo leaf blower. Less the $6.99 I paid for a security bit set at Harbor Freight 😂 The leaf blower would not operate more than a couple seconds. On the battery, I would get no lights when pressing the charge status button. The charger would only give me a flashing red light when trying to charge this battery. I disassembled the battery and simply connected the GRD and the RST briefly a couple times. I reassembled the battery, put it in the charger and it is charging fine now! Thanks again!
Awesome. It is great to hear that the video has helped.
Thanks for this. For anyone who wants specifics that worked for me:
1) Get a solid 12 - 15V DC source. Car batter or charger.
2) Connect the Positive 12v supply to the large lead on the battery that has the red lead.
3) Connect the Negative of the 12v supply to the other large lead on the batter. It has no color.
Let this charge for a few minutes.
Disconnect everything. But the battery into the half housing. It should now have enough juice to power the PC board and it starts charging.
If it doesn't then you likely have a real honest dead battery that cannot retain a charge anymore.
If it does charge, I'd let it charge all the way and then do the reset that the author here shows.
I've done all this and it is working.
Thanks again for the video. :)
With my packs, I was able to determine that the batteries were ok when I used an external charge/discharge cycle. When I obtained a full charge, I then performed the reset. Thanks.
That could be dangerous. You should always use some sort of current limiting, perhaps just a 5 ohm power resistor to limit at about 2A from the 12V battery. I'm surprised this worked.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k there is an easier way to reset. Just take the battery out of the device and press and hold the battery status button for a few seconds.
This worked great for me, except that I used a 45W/20V computer brick (an old one that actually puts out power when not connected to the same brand of computer). My 58V is charging now. Thank you to both Dan and clasmir5281! I am putting this charger on a timer with power 30min/day to maintain.
Worked perfectly ... thank you! I used my spare battery and hooked it up in parallel (plus to plus and minus to minus) for about 30 seconds then moved it to the charger with just enough voltage (38v) so the charger would recognize the battery. After charging the battery on the factory charger, my blower behaved as the saw at the beginning of the video. Following the video instructions the battery now works like a charm.
That is a clever idea. However, I might be a little concerned about the fully charged battery being able to dump too much current too fast into the dead one. An idea might be to add a high power low resistance resistor in series.
Thanks for the repair ideas. After burning up a 12V charger, I got an inexpensive variable DC power source, and after a charge, did the reset you showed - and the battery works great. Great information.
Glad to hear that it worked for you. The Charger/Battery design seems to be a poor design.
What brand DC power source did you get? How long did you charge the battery before resetting?
Thanks so much for this! My 4ah battery has been doing this for over a year and I could never figure out a fix. I was about to send it to the recycling center when I found your video. Worked like a charm. I'm so happy to have my 4ah battery back, the 2ah just hasn't been cutting it.
Glad the video helped.
same here
I literally just did this and wow, it worked on a $15.99 Goodwill find. Thank you Dan!
Your welcome, glad it helped.
Thank you. Same thing happened to mine. Brand new battery had 2 full cycles on it. Came back in the spring and would not charge. So I jump started each cell grouping with an old 5.3vdc 500mA(presumably will have constant current at it's rated output???) phone charger with the plug cut off; making sure I always, always have correct polarity on each 2-cell grouping; you will be charging each 2-cell group together. Do not cross the polarity. Once I got all the cells to about 3.1 volts I was able to charge the pack on the Echo charger but still wouldn't run the tools. This reset worked.
Good that it worked for you. Echo really does seem to have a design problem. You were patient in charging the cells separately :)
Thanks for the great video! You saved me $320 for a new battery and all it cost me was $4 for a new torex screwdriver.
That is awesome and your welcome. This battery does seem to have a couple of quirks.
THANK YOU Dan! I knew the circuit board is faulty but didn't know how to resolve it.
Your welcome. Hope the video helped.
Great advice. Especially the guy who mentioned jumping the dead battery, from a sister battery of the same type for 30 seconds. Both worked for me. Has to be a significant design flaw on their part as I've gone through two warranties to date on both batteries, same issue, prior.
Thanks. I agree, the "Jump Start" idea is a clever. I agree, there does appear to be a major design flaw.
Thank you. You are awesome for both the video and for replying to so many comments. So, I have two of these poorly designed batteries - Echo should be embarrassed. On one, I had exactly the same issue as yours in the video and sure enough the reset worked. Halleluiah! The battery doesn't last as long as it used to but hey, it does recharge fairly quickly. I did find that if I drain the battery completely, it won't charge in the charger and I have to disassemble and reset again and so far that continues to work.
The second battery, I wasn't so fortunate. I charged it and was able to get one light on the status indicator and then when I took it off the charger it showed nothing and resetting did nothing. I have concluded this one is truly dead - it is the older of the two. Again, thank you.
Thanks for the kind comments. I agree, this battery and charger combination is a poor design. Good to hear that the video helped with one of your batteries.
My pack is 7 years old. The board does have the stuff that he says is missing on his. Many good seasons. A replacement?...$190!. May see if I can replace the cells. 7 years is probably all we gonna get on Lithium?
I would think you have a good run of 7 years. It is amazing how much replacement battery packs cost.
Thanks so much for this video. My battery was already fully charged so all I had to do was the reset with the tweezers and it did the trick. Much appreciated!!
Glad it helped you out.
which 2 contact points to I touch with the tweezers? I couldn't tell.
Touch the ground to the reset with the tweezers. They are clearly marked
Sad part is TTI makes these batteries, same clowns that make Milwaukee and ryobi batteries among others. All of these batteries dont have on board BMS that can balance the cells. Its either a space saving or just made to fail design. A lot of folks also use TTI batteries outside of tools and dont realize you can fully drain them below the safe working voltage of the lipo cells.
Great video overall, I have rebuilt some of these packs from the ground up with an echo chainsaw I got for free, I think the 2ah batteries are just too weak and the saw works but keeps turning off under load.
The board for the 2ah and 4ah batteries are the same, so my next step will be to build the other 2ah pack I have with 2x the cells. The case was literally empty with empty space in the 2ah vs 4 ah.
I was really surprised when I saw that there was no cell balancing implemented in the unit I took apart. Trying to save a buck in a couple of hundred dollar battery pack is nuts.
Good video. I used a little 12v power supply and added 2 flat crimp adapters on them. Plugged that into the battery on the negative and positive. This is with battery all intact. I then let it charge and tested off and by validating on the battery charger itself. It would stay on testing until the battery was over 25v at which point the echo charger began charging on its own. Cost me 0 dollars to do this.
Good to hear that you got your battery working again.
Thanks was just able to revive my 2nd battery after 3+ years. I used a car charger with 2 screwdrivers stuck in the battery terminals. Let it charge for a period until it show a red light when pushing the button. Stuck it in the official battery charger overnight and now the battery works in my blower. You can reset the battery by pulling it out of charger and pushing button for 5+ seconds. Stick it back in charger and it should be reset.
Good to hear that you were able to rescue your battery. There really does appear that there is a design problem with this pack.
I'm going to try that with my 58v AEG pack
@@JT-zb2km any luck?
@@curtisletch6911 no luck, I didn't know how to open up the battery.
@@JT-zb2km No need to open battery. You just need to connect power to the positive and negative terminals that are marked on the battery. I did this by sticking a flat screwdriver in the positive and negative battery terminal. I used a car battery charger and clamped the charger clamp on each screwdriver. I highly recommend doing this in the open. Also, plug in the charger after you have made the connections. My charger was set to 10amps for the charge. It needed about 15 minutes to charge.
But this is ridiculous, it's a great video absolutely. most people don't have this set up and shouldn't have to go through all this trouble just to get a damn battery to work.
I agree. The batteries I examined are a poor design.
Thanks for saving me $200! I took mine apart several times to dry out water and it did the same thing, I didn't see the reset on the board. I just tried it and everything works like normal
Your welcome. Glad it helped.
Thank you for this video. I had a battery with the same problem. Its been sitting on the shelf for almost 2 yrs and was about to toss it until I found your video. I decided to try just doing the reset first before I go any further and amazingly it worked!!! 😀 thank you again
Your welcome. Glad the video was helpful.
I have this same chainsaw, and after using it a few days ago, down to about 2-3 charge lights, I put it on the charger, but after a few hours it was still showing the charge indicator flashing about 3 bars. I'll try running it in the saw (once things dry up after a lot of rain), and I'll see how well it works. Your video gives me hope it might be easily fixed with a PIC reset. I was going to buy another battery for $150 on eBay, and even if I get this back to normal, I will probably buy that to swap out while charging. I have a LOT of trees down after recent storms. Thanks!
Apparently my problem is with the charger. I charged the battery to the full 58 VDC using a current limited lab supply, along with a 2 ohm power resistor, at 1 amp. The battery gauge reads full four bars, but the charger keeps blinking like it's trying to charge. If I find what's wrong and fix it, maybe I'll make a video. Thanks.
@@PaulAndMuttley Agree, sounds like a possible charger problem.
Also thanks for all your work and educated information here.
Your welcome.
Great video! Hoping you can help me with my question. My battery has no LED lights that light when I press the button. When I put it on the charger red light blinks, then turns solid (defective). Took the battery apart and reset per your video. When I put it in the charger now it just always says "evaluating" (blinking red light on charger).
Any other tricks I can try?
TIA!
Thanks. What is the voltage of the battery? If you leave it on the charger for say an hour and then measure it, what do you get? When you performed the reset, what was the battery voltage?
@@DanPattenAudioG33k sorry for the delay in response. Battery is at ~4.5v, I did not measure it prior to resetting it.
@@paulreed563 I believe one of the key issues is performing the reset when the battery is in a full state.
How exactly did you charge with the power supply? What connections were made, those are not adequately shown in the video.
I applied the charging voltage to the +/- terminals (2:28 in the video). I just used a piece of thin metal (I used ring terminals) and inserted into the +/- battery slots. Used alligator clips from the power supply to the ring terminals. Hope that helps.
Hello Dan...I had two of these 58V Echo packs totally go TU over the winter due to discharge and probably cold temps. I just changed out all 28 cells in the two batteries, did the reset and each can take a charge to 58V....but I have the same exact symptom as you showed at the beginning with the two second run time and cutoff regardless of tool. Thanks for the vid, I will keep looking unless you have any words of wisdom. cheers
Once they were fully charged, did you try the reset?
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Yes, I reset them exactly as you showed. I can tell that it made a difference because the charge status light would just blink even at fully-charged; now they show four bars. I measure 58V at the terminals, but still one-second run time on all tools. Thanks
Can a RESET button be added to make this easier ?
Sure. A normally open momentary contact switch could be added.
I have a small 12v battery charger that detects what type of battery its connected to before charging. Would I be able to use it with some contacts in the battery to get it charged enough to reset using the video method?
@@mistercates9 You can try but I think the voltage might be too low.
If your device (saw, blower, weed whacker, etc.,...) starts and stops like yours did, you can just take the battery out, press and hold the check battery button for a few seconds and release it. When you do the battery status light will flash and then reset. Your battery should work fine. This doesn't help with the charging but it can help you from having to take the battery pack apart and putting it back together.
Interesting info. Where did you find out about long press on check battery? I'll have to try it next time my work associate brings in his battery. With the reset on the board, it appears to work best when battery is fully charged.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I had the short run and shut off after I let my battery run down then fully charged. I opened a tech call with Echo and they told me about it. I currently have a fully discharged battery which is how I came across your video. I don't have a nice charging unit like you so I'm not sure how I can get an initial charge to get the regular charger to start working.
You might be able to find a AC/DC adapter (wall wart) with a pretty high voltage that could jump start the battery and insert a series resistor between the AC/DC adapter to limit current. 48VDC AC/DC adapters are pretty common (used with PoE Ethernet). Maybe a 200 ohm 10W resistor in series.
Hello, great video. Do know if Ryobi batteries have the same setup? Can they be reset this way? Thanks.
Sorry, I do not have any experience with Ryobi batteries. I just bought into the EGO ecosystem and got a trimmer and leaf blower. Hopefully, their batteries are better and I do not have to make a video :)
My 58V20 Echo battery appeared to drain down to 2.6V sitting for months IN the charger. Based on this video and comments, I tried charging the battery manually with +35V without disassembly. The current draw started at >0.5 A and then gradually decreased as the voltage difference got smaller. I waited until 0.06A and then measured +33V on the battery. I placed the battery back into the Echo charger and it started charging again (green blinking light instead of red. However, it then stopped charging at 2 of 4 orange LED lights with the charger now blinking Red., and the battery voltage reading 51.7 V. I then opened up the battery shell and verified that the individual cell voltages were uniform (3.68-3.70 V). Hence the halted charging problem was not due to a bad cell. I then did the Reset trick to clear the non-volatile memory, reassembled the battery, stuck it back into the charger and indeed it continued to charge the rest of the way to >57V.
Thanks for the information. Really does seem that there are major bugs/problems with firmware in this battery pack that end up in the user buying a new pack when it is actually still good.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k For those of us with the 2ah battery, what would be the appropriate charging voltage and amperage to set on the power supply? Sounds like 30v 1a might be enough to get it to recognize on the charger and it take over. Then reset as @alsjon1 did and let the charger finish it off.
@@Lttlwing16_ I would tend to try a lower current just to be safer. Maybe 0.5A and monitor the voltage and current while charging.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k thanks so much for the response and revealing this trick. I ended up setting the power supply to 30v C-V and the amperage started around 0.5a and surprisingly backed off pretty quickly. The battery was measuring 30v in no time, which was surprising considering how low the amperage was reading.
Either way I topped it up to around 40v, did the manual reset, and the Echo charger immediately recognized and charged the battery to full. My string trimmer, in a quick test, ran without pauses.
Wondering if setting to 0.5a C-C and watching for the battery to reach ~30v is the better play?
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Dan, what’s an inexpensive way to get the initial charge before reset? In other words what charger or other device will charge my battery so it communicates with the charger?
It sounds in the video like you are saying you pulsed the reset pin with the ground. I see in your instructions it says you pulled it low. Can you explain further what you are doing at that step?
Thanks, Tom
The reset input line to the processor is tied to the processor power supply through a resistor (sometimes 10Kohm) and if measured would be approximately 3.3V. To reset the processor, this input needs to be momentarily connected to ground and this is usually done by shorting the pin to ground.
Thank you for your video. I have 6 58v Echo batteries, and I have revived 4 of them now by resetting them. I have 2 that are fully discharged so I need to charge them first. I have a power supply that is adjustable up to 30v and 10amps. Where/how do I recharge the cells??
Is the power supply capable of 10A or does it have ability to current limit? If it can current limit, I might set it to 0.5A at 30V and watch the pack voltage for an hour or two. If you see the voltage starting to increase, that would typically mean the battery is starting to take a charge. Possibly charging the battery to 30V might allow the Echo charger to take over.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I can current limit. It seems to not take any current if simply applying voltage to the 2 main terminals…I kind of assumed that meant one of the smaller terminals might need to be powered up also. But by your reply it seems not. I will leave the power supply connected for a period of time and see what happens. Thanks !
It will charge with only +/- terminals connected.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k well update on battery 1: would not accept any charge. Opened it up, tested the cells, most were around 1 volt, 3 were at 0. I think this one is a gonner! Off to battery #2!
To be clear, when you reset the battery with the tweezers, you had one end of the tweezers on the ground, and one end on the reset?
Correct.
Thanks for the video Dan. My battery (58v 2ah) is giving me trouble. All cells are reading ~3.9v, but when I put it on the charger it’ll either flash for a few seconds and go to solid red (defective), or flash red for a few seconds, flash green for a few seconds (fan kicks on for fast charge), and then go to solid red. Overall battery voltage is 54.9v. I tried resetting the battery by holding the button for 5+ seconds and using the tweezer. No matter what it just does the same thing. Battery indicates 3/4 charge on the indicator lights, but will only power up my trimmer for a second and then shut off. Any thoughts on what else I might do to make This charge? Seems like the battery isn’t resetting to me but who can say
Maybe try a discharge cycle first down to 3.0V per cell and then charge and perform reset. Maybe.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thanks for the suggestion Dan. I ended up getting the battery to charge fully and now the trimmer is working as it should. I suspect something is up with my charger, but I don't know for sure.
Dan, this worked!!!! Thank you so much.
Awesome. Glad the video helped.
Dude, i was reading 41v and the charger wouldn’t get out of test mode. Did the RESET and the battery now fully recharges and works perfectly.
Awesome. Glad the video helped.
Thank you! It worked! Just saved me a few hundred bucks!
Awesome. Glad the video helped.
Have been trying this solution and hoped it would work for me, but my bench supply will not draw a constant (or any) current into the battery. Battery status is very weak at around 4volts total. Bench supply set at 57.4v and 1amp max current. I left this previously good batt in a mower unit for 3 months, now too low and no longer charges. Any suggestions?
Maybe a dumb suggestion... Are you sure you are on battery terminals (not communication)? Also, maybe reduce current and while monitoring, let try charging for a day. Other than that, maybe there are dead cells.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes def on battery terminals, have reduced current and tried as suggested already. Thanks for responding. Just picked up a used replacement from marketplace in the meantime. just cant see why its not taking a charge, seems unlikely a cell will go bad in such a short space of time when unused. Maybe my cheap bench supply is not seeing the load.
Does seem like an odd failure. That is one of the problems with lithium batteries, they can fail if they discharge to zero and sit for a long time. They will refuse to take a charge. Past company I worked for used a lithium battery where the built in BMS board would drain the pack. So the pack would discharge sitting on the shelf and nothing would bring them back.
so how can I charge my battery without a good charger. if i use a ac battery charger what voltage and ampere could I use? Is there a way to fix the charger? Thank you
I have suggested to a couple of others in these comments that you could possibly use a POE (power over Ethernet) adapter 48v and a current limiting resistor.
No, I do not think you can fix the charger because it is mostly a coding issue.
We have a 2AH 58V blower. It started having a similar issue described here. It would run for a few minutes then cut off. Releasing and pressing the button would cause the blower to run again for a few minutes but cut off again. You could continue to do this until the blower would no longer come on. We’ve tested the battery and fully charged shows 58V. We performed the steps described in this video. Unfortunately, the battery still has the same issue and won’t run continuously. Any hints as to what to try next?
Is it a possibility that you have a dead cell in the battery pack? It is a pain, but the voltage on each cell can be individually tested. Using Echo charger, charge to full capacity and measure individual cells.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thank you. I appreciate the info. I’ve looked a videos showing how to test the cells. We could probably accomplish that, but not sure that we could change the cell if in fact one or more is bad. It doesn’t look simple. I know of no local battery repair business. At this point we may just bite the bullet and buy a new blower. Sad that a perfectly good blower goes ro the landfill just because of a bad battery. Oh well. That seems to be the way things are in today’s world. Thanks again.
Hey man do you provide a service to do this? I am just unsure how to charge it up without a special charger.
Sorry, I do not. Have thought about it but shipping lithium battery packs that are over 100Wh is a pain.
What voltage did your battery show when it would not charge and/or show error?
I do not recall the discharged voltage, however, the battery could be fully charged (58V) and the chainsaw would not operate.
Do you have to charge the battery externally before doing the reset? Or can i just do the reset?
I had to charge the battery outside of charger and then do the reset. Others in these comments (I believe) had success just performing the reset.
I have a similar battery from AEG, 58v, 4 amp. The battery is good, can still take current from an external source but the circuit board differs slightly from the Echo, - I don't have a GND on my 5 pin header, so I am unsure which two to ground. I have CLK, DIO, RST, 3.3V and B- Any Thoughts Dan? Can email a photo if that helps.
Possibly between RST and B- but can not guarantee that. Sure, email photo and I can take a quick look.
I have a battery that has been sitting on a shelf for a year with no lights will a reset work or do I need to charge it first
My experience is that it needs to be charged first.
good afternoon, I have the same battery, the problem is that it does not charge, the red LED flashes on the charger, I did a reset but nothing helped, the batteries are fine, what could be the problem
Have you looked at individual cells and measured voltage across each? Make sure there are no dead cells.
This is a great video. My battery charges to 2 lights on the battery, then it reads as defective.If I do the fix you did, would my battery charge to full again? What type of screwdriver do you need to open up the battery?.
Your pack may have a different problem. Possibly a shorted or defective cell in the pack. The screw heads are Torx.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k security torx
I have this same system and have fortunately not experienced this issue at this point. Do you have any recommendations for avoiding this problem?
I think a key point is to not let the battery drain down to zero when in storage. For example if not used in the winter, charge it a couple of times. I would also not leave the battery on the charger after it is charged.
I opened the battery and found that the a few resistors, caps and transistors burned out. Anywhere we can get a replacement pc board?
Sorry, I am not aware of replacement circuit boards. If the board is not damaged, it might be possible to replace damaged components.
Thanks for the video, looks like AEG (Australia) have the same battery, showed a faulty battery light and wouldn't charge, but had 51 volt charge remaining. I didn't have the facility to charge and discharge as shown in the battery so went straight to the reset of reset+ground.
The mainboard on the battery is the same as the echo (according to my novice look)
Status button then worked showing the battery had discharged down to 2 lights when it stopped working, now on the charger and charging.
This is the third battery I have had replaced under warranty, 3 years here, and this one failed at 40 months.
I can only suggest one reason the balancing and higher voltage charging in built into the battery :-)
Now done a couple of recharges and all back to 58 volts - thanks again
Good to hear that it helped! Your welcome :)
@@geoffwinnett1211 I works. My AEG battery would not show any LED when the button was pressed while it measured 56V. The reset cured the problem.
I took mine apart and some of the cells get too far out of balance. Almost all cells were at 3.9v except for 2 which were at 3.4v/3.5v.
My pack does have the balance resistors loaded though. My manufacturer date was 2014.
It is crazy that some packs have the balance resistors and others do not. Since you pack has the balance resistors which should be safer and more reliable, maybe you could try charging at a low current for a while and see if those low voltage cells come up.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k the charger comes back defective and refuses to charge. I’ll try the reset
@@yolo_burrito Ok. If you had access to a variable power supply, I would try that with a slow charge.
Great video! What suggestion would you have for those of us with a less than basic understanding of electricity as a solution for charging manually? I have no equipment to do that. I do have tweezers, however. 🙂
Charging lithium batteries requires very specific voltage and current requirements. Not adhering to these specific requirements can be dangerous. You really need a power supply that can be operated in CC (Constant Current) mode and where a max voltage can be specified. There are 60V variable supplies on Amazon that are little less than $100 that should work.
Tweezers are a good start :)
very well explained, i actualy understand it now.
Thank you. Hopefully your battery works now.
I picked up a cheap 60V power supply to try this but it won't allow me to set the 57.40V @ 1.00A on this unit. Instead I have to charge current limited at 1.00A as the voltage steadily increases....Does this sound correct? I am also checking the temperatures every so often. Is there a temperature threshold where I should be worried about?
I think I already figured out that I need to pre-set the power supply to 57.40V @ 1.00A then connect it to the battery so it will incrementally charge the battery to the pre-set voltage limit (57.40V) at a constant current of 1.00A. I am not liking the sparks I get when connecting it. Gonna wear rubber gloves.
Well, my first battery is done and seems to be working!
........and now the power supply quit on my third battery. Ugh.
I think you have got it. You want to set the maximum voltage and maximum current. Depending on the power supply, this might have to be done without the battery connected. With a battery that is discharged, when you first attach the battery, the current will max out and the voltage will be below the set point. Current will be at max till the voltage setpoint has been reached. Once the max voltage has been reached, the battery is done charging and should be removed from the supply. You might consider charging at a lower current just to be on the safe side :)
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thank you for the reply. Currently I am debating whether to purchase another power supply after I returned the first one because it seemed to stop working. Also, of the two batteries I got to charge, one of them has already stopped charging again. I may look more into the feasibility of testing and replacing individual cells but for now it seems a bit beyond my capabilities and understanding. Is there any advice you could provide on replacing cells in these batteries?
My battery had 3 bars, worked fine, but charger said defective. Tried reset, charger still says defective. Does that mean charger is malfunctioning? Also did you build your equipment or is that something premade?
You may have a failed cell in the pack. Key to determining if the pack is bad is to charge the pack outside of the Echo charger . However, this external charger still needs to be lithium battery charge compliant to do this safely. I used an off-the-shelf power supply that is capable of appropriate voltages and can be programmed for proper lithium battery charging.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k thanks for the response…what’s the name of the charger?
I charged the battery with a lab benchtop power supply. Not really a charger but a general purpose power supply that can be configured as a charger. It is a Rigol DP832.
What size of Security Torx are required for the screws on this battery?
Sorry, I do not recall the size and do not have the battery handy to check.
T10 Tamper Torx (note - must be tamper)
About how much time did it take to fully charge the battery with your setup?
Sorry, I do not recall.
Do the tweezers have to be metal?
Yes. I am using the metal tweezer to form an electrical path.
Excellent ,thanks for posting.
Your welcome. Hope it helped.
Mine came new discharged and only a red blinking light on the charger and wont charge the battery, will a simple reset work on the battery and then charge in the battery pack or does it first have to be charged first before the reset.?
I dont have a fancy charge/discharge thing like you do.
Not sure if the reset will fix the issue on a fully discharged battery. I did not try that scenario. If the unit is new, I would probably return it under warranty before taking it apart.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Thanks Dan, I returned it and got an exchange, the second one had the same issue so returned it also and got a refund, not sure if I will be buying anything ECHO after knowing these issues now.
your video was excellent Dan thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for kind comment.
Hello. Can you check the voltages between the pins on the battery output? I have a problem my AEG I have replaced the cells with new ones, the voltages are equal, I have done a reset and the battery displays the state of charge. When plugged into the charger the red LED flashes and does not charge. Power tools shut down after a few seconds despite correct voltage....
I measure resistance between GND, and temperature sensor. I have 18,80Ohm.
Does anyone know if the batteries from ECHO are compatible with AEG?
Design, number of electronics and voltage, quantity cells is the same...
I don't know if the electronics are damaged, and I'm curious if by applying voltage from the inverter between the pin using an active balancer you can fool the electronics and start the AEG on a non-original battery. Maybe you have some experience with this?
what size driver do you use to remove cover
Sorry, I do not have that info. These batteries are a co-workers and do not have it handy.
Thanks for sharing, but unfortunately, this reset did not work for me.
My Echo 58V battery has been in storage for about a year. Today I put the Echo 58V battery into the Echo trimmer to trim some grass. I checked battery status it shows 3 LED light levels remaining. But the trimmer only worked for about 5 or 7 minutes, then stopped - apparently out of battery. Now the batter won't charge no matter what I do - including tried your re-set method. Upon resetting, It actually showed it was charging, for about 15 minutes or so charging, the green LED becomes solid indicating a full charge. But put this battery into the trimmer, it spins less than 10 seconds then it stops, this means not charged, press battery test only 1 LED blinks. Put the battery back onto the charger, charger shows solid green - indicating fully charged, but actually not.
With the packs I worked with, the battery needs to be fully charged when the reset is performed. In my packs, the controller IC was out of sync with what the pack was really doing. I needed to charge the pack without using the manufacturer's charger and then reset the pack.
IMO the most likely scenario with your battery is that at least one of the 28 cells (14 parallel pairs connected in series) has failed and has become the weak link in your chain. After some searching I found someone in Australia who can replace the individual cells (they have spot welded end connections) so you maybe able to as well. Unfortunately it is difficult to predict with an older battery whether other cells are about to fail as well so it may not be worth the trouble. In my case I know the battery is quite new so am willing to take the chance that all the other cells have a good life left in them.
Thank you so much This worked perfect and you saved me hundreds
Good to hear that the video helped. Amazing how common this problem is.
Great info. What contacts did you connect to, to charge the battery?
I'll rewatch The video in case you showed it.
What can be done with 13 working batteries. Seems like a waste just recycling the entire pack.
Your welcome. I just used a crimp ring terminal. The ring part was perfect thickness.
How did you charge it???
Used a benchtop power supply shown in the video.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k must have missed that is it like a small engine battery charger and where can I find one
Thank you your help is greatly appreciated
@@richardmiller4021 The bench supply I used is kind of expensive. Something like this would work: amzn.to/3wr0qsi
@@DanPattenAudioG33k thanks for your help
Hi Dan i have some problem with my echo battery it can to charge just to show the light checking ...
I am not sure if I understand your question.
Hi the battery is dead don't charge..
Well put, can't wait to try it. Have you checked kobalt 80v?
Thanks. I do not have any experience with Kobalt. This fix was for a friends saw. Little over a year ago, I got into the EGO ecosystem and have several of their tools. So far so good.
So I'm not an electronics guy but I got my 58 volt echo weed eater battery working after it stopped working over the winter. All I did was put it in my weed eater and cycled it from turtle mode to rabbit mode until it started running. I ran the the battery down and it is now charging perfectly.
Good that your fix was easy :)
morning sir i know nothing about electronics. except it can do some damage. what do you mean pulse the reset and ground?
I have the same question! Also, can you do this if you have a dead battery and don't charge it before your pulse it?
@@nickcorrao well i guess he's pretty busy nick. i'm sure he will reply someday.
At 5:39, I describe the P1 connector on the circuit board. The microprocessor's configuration memory is reset when the P1 connector pin/hole labeled RST (Reset) is momentarily connected to GND (ground). Simply take a short length of wire (could be a paper clip) and connect these two points together momentarily (approximately a second) and remove.
I performed the reset on a fully charged battery pack. Did not try it on a discharged pack. Not sure this "fix" will work on a dead pack but probably no harm in trying it (since your battery is probably no working anyway). Hope this helps.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k yes i think the threshold is around 55+ volts reset and charging will take place. Unfortunately the pack I'm working I charged up to 56v and the reset didn't work. I took a reading and had only 29 volts. So now I'm going to try to figure out the battery pack and figure out what else could be wrong. The charger is new and I charged other 58v batteries without issue. This one has stumped my mind. Thank you I know you're busy.
What is the blue and green wires for? I want to use my 58v ebike battery in a backpack but I'm not sure if my BMS is compatible if the motor is using an internal controller that communicates with the BMS how can I bypass this?
It looks like there might be a couple of versions of this battery pack. I just noticed a picture of another Echo battery that has the cell balancing components loaded. Interesting. The packs I have examined do not really have a full BMS implemented. Just looks like total pack voltage and in/out current is monitored through the blue and green wires. Hope that helps. Thanks.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k do you have any recording of this communication?
I do not. Sorry. Was actually fixing these packs for a friend and do not have them right now. Maybe, I could get them back and probe the communication lines.
My charger is blinking red. My charger output is only 4.5v. My battery is also at 4.5v. Is my charger bad and is there a way to fix it? Thank you.
do you have any idea what the 4 terminals on the battery are?
Two connections are for power connection (+ and -) and the the other two are communication.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k do you have any idea what kind of cummunication?
I did not fully investigate the communication between the charger and the pack. I have assumed that it might be I2C as that is what appears to be on the P1 connector.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k inside the trimmer the wires are twisted. I think that woud not be the case with i2c. Do you have a scope at hand?
I rest the bms, still cutting out.(
I do have a scope but do not have the battery packs. Was fixing these for a friend. I'll see if I can get one back and look at the communication lines.
Thanks Dan for a good video. Can I use a 58v in place of a 56v?
A typical lithium battery like this charges at 4.1V per cell. 4.1V x 14 cells = 57.4V. I would not exceed this voltage. In my opinion, exceeding 57.4V can be dangerous.
When I bought my Echo trimmer I got it home and charged the battery and it did the same thing. Ran for a second and quit. After charging it over and the same thing it happened again so I brought it back. Same thing! After bringing 2 trimmers back to Home Depot I called echo. They told me to press the button on the battery for several second so it resets and all was fine. Now after the battery was one month out of warranty it goes bad and won't charge. Took it apart and did the internal reset thing and it worked but only once so I'm thinking a bad cell. But if it's just a new unit and doing the same thing run/stop hold the exterior button down to reset and you should be fine. The manual said nothing about it so I informed the Home Depot where I bought it from.
Interesting information. This pack and charger seems to have quite a few problems.
I had no luck after contacting AEG about similar issue, they said it's faulty, out of warranty, and cannot help me. no mention of reset. so unkind. thanks for your tip. I'll try it.
Very good, thank you
Your welcome :)
I've got AEG batteries which look suspiciously like your ones. I've had like 4 batteries with presumably the same issue. Just wondering if leaving these on charge too long could negatively affect them
In my opinion it is typically not a good idea to leave batteries on any charger for a long time. Some chargers do not properly shutoff after charging and this can result in overcharging the battery. I did not look at this charger to see what it did after charge termination. Thanks.
Is there anyplace we can send our batteries to have them reviewed and
Is there any place where we can have our LI batteries examined and repaired? Thank you.
Not that I am aware of. One problem with servicing the battery packs is they can not be shipped by air and package should be marked as containing lithium battery pack.
Is your battery pack experiencing the same problem?
nice presentation. now maybe you or your followers have an idea what could be the issue if the battery pack is 58v but it will not discharge or run a tool. what could be the problem? anybody? besides me.
My problem had similar evidence. I knew the battery was charged but it would not run the tool. I was able to charge and discharge the battery without the tool, so I know it worked. There are possible other reasons that could cause a similar scenario. Mine was a simple reset of the processor.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k hello sir and thank you for you quick reply. Well I tried the reset & ground jump but same results. I have the first Led flashing on and off quickly before and after jumping.
Thank you.watched your video and It worked
Good to hear that it worked.
Hi Dan, would you offer this service to people who don't have the skills and tools that you do? I ship you my dead battery, you fix and ship back?
This fix is for a very specific problem with this battery pack. There could be many different problems that could cause the battery pack to not work properly.
I could not guarantee that this "fix" would work with your pack. I could try this simple fix but if it does not work, I do not have time to further diagnose.
Thes batteries are in the Vax Blade 2. Just saying
Interesting. Had to look that up. Would not have expected to see these in a vacuum.
Will I be shocked just using tweezers with my bare fingers?
@@DareToBeatbox The two pins your are momentarily connecting is at 3.3V to ground. So no :). That being said, if something catastrophic has happened to the pack, there is very remote possibility of higher voltage.
Just bought a brand new one. It shows charged, doesn't work at all. I'm going to check the voltage, but also it's going back to the Echo dealer first thing in the morning.
UGG! I looked at the battery closely, someone has already been in there with a dirty torx and three silver caps are missing (screw covers on top). It's showing four lights, but won't power the saw and the charger says it's charged. DVOM says it has 57.73 volts! WTF?
DAT GUM chain brake had saw shut off. Once I knew I had voltage I tried it again. Works fine.
Good to hear it works. So you bought a new unit that had been opened already? Weird.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Yes, I made sure the company knew that I knew they'd apparently had to do a reset on the battery because it was older stock. It was their last of the "old model". I was glad to get it with the old price. But I didn't want any flack over a battery warranty and they said they'd make a note of it. Had they used a clean torx bit and replaced all the silver caps--I might have never known. Saw is great though, that little chain is flying through the seasoned white oak logs I'm cutting for firewood. I can cut a little wood every evening and not reek of 2-stroke exhaust now. Save my 2-strokes for all day wood cutting.
Hi, My battery is on 53 volts and also wont run my blower for more than a few seconds and also wont charge. I don't have another way to charge it up to 58v, so I did the reset anyway but still wont work or charge. Do you think charging it up to 58v and then doing the reset will fix the problem?
Both batteries that I "fixed" :) were charged to 57.4V when I performed the reset. I can not guarantee it (your pack might have other problems) but I think performing the reset at full charge is key.
I bought 3 of these chainsaws, chargers, and 4 batteries. They all do the same thing even though the charger for mine does say it is charging and meter lights to go up. All of them run for a few seconds then stop. If you wait for a minute you can do it again and again. We keep doing it till we get down to 2 lights and it gets worse then switch out and charge them back up. We don't cut trees down but this is no way to use a chainsaw for even one cuit and much worse in the winter. I will try this method with all my batteries but get a funny feeling the reset will only last for one use. Wonder if that has happen to anyone or if it permanently fixed the battery. We tried the reset option that others mentioned by pulling the battery and holding the battery button down till the lights flash but that does not help any. All the batteries worked at first but quickly started doing this stopping thing. I believe they should have populated the circuity to work properly as mentioned. Calling Echo was no help. I will update if this option works for more than one cycle.
Let us know what you find. The batteries that I performed this "fix" have worked for a long time. I'll ask my co-worker if they are still going.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k Well I reset 2 and they still do the same thing. 1 seemed better for a bit. They run for a few seconds then stop. They show full charge and can use them with pauses but not practical. I don't understand how I can have 3 chargers and 4 batteries and be the only one with this particular problem. At the beginning of your video where you pull the trigger and the saw goes for a minute than stops that is exactly what mine does reset or not. Going to drill a hole in the side of this one for on the go reset since they are pretty much useless anyhow. Between 3 saws, 3 chargers, and 4 batteries I have over $1200 of pretty new useless garbage.
Maybe I am doing it wrong but generally pretty good at fixing just about anything. This third pack reads 56.2v fully charged and all the individual cells read pretty even at 4 to 4.1v. That adds up and none read bad but am I supposed to discharge all the way and recharge to try and get closer to 58v?
So I need all that fancy expensive equipment and experience to obtain this?
Appreciate your video though…
Thanks. In the comments for this video, I have made a few suggestions of possible budget method. Cut and paste here:
You might be able to accomplish similar results with a 48VDC AC/DC power supply. These are common for POE (Power Over Ethernet) devices. Insert a series 200 ohm power resistor (25W or larger) to limit the current. Assuming you have a multi-meter to monitor voltages/current and maybe $30 of parts from Amazon, you might be able to do it. Be careful and your mileage might vary :)
Can I send you my Echo CBP-58V40 I'll pay to have fix. Thanks (Alex)
These batteries totally suck
I agree that it is not a good design.
I can reset a battery too if I owned all this equipment.. . But I don't
You might be able to accomplish similar results with a 48VDC AC/DC power supply. These are common for POE (Power Over Ethernet) devices. Insert a series 200 ohm power resistor (25W or larger) to limit the current. Assuming you have a multi-meter to monitor voltages/current and maybe $30 of parts from Amazon, you might be able to do it. Be careful and your mileage might vary :)
I tried this exactly as shown. It does not work. For the amount of time I spent, it's more cost-effective to just buy a refurb'd battery, or better yet - retire this terrible Echo.
Sorry to hear that this process did not work. I think the battery system is a bad design.
All that battery is bf. Spencer and garbage
Better yet, just avoid Echo products completely. I dumped a lot of money into their chain saw and hedge trimmer. The appliances themselves aren't too bad - but the battery packs are an obvious scam - they break instantly for no reason and they cost over $200. Obviously they are carefully designed to separate suckers from their money.
Echo is Chinese scam-bait that isn't worth what it costs in either the short or long term.
My only experience with Echo has been this chainsaw and have not been impressed with the battery. This chainsaw is a co-workers, so I do not personally own it. I purchased a Ego chainsaw about a year ago and have not had any problems with it (so far) :)
@@DanPattenAudioG33k If it weren't for the batteries it would actually be a OK little saw. I wouldn't use it for felling trees or anything, but it's ok for trimming kindling and firewood that doesn't fit in the stove; stuff where the gas fed saw is overkill or just too loud. I've cut 10" to 12" logs with it without any trouble. The batteries are the deal killer.
It's a real shame. I have been an Echo fan for as long as I can remember. They make some of the best small 2 stroke engines. I got rid of my gas Echo trimmer when I got the 58V trimmer thinking it would serve me for years. I'm glad I didn't have a chance to swap the chainsaw before the battery issues started. I have since switched to Ego for my trimmer and I am happy so far. The trimmer is lighter so easier to maneuver. Not commercial/professional grade but ideal for residential use. Ego seems to offer much better support for their products and have been innovating their entire line of battery powered lawn equipment. I still love Echo gas powered equipment but this has left a bad taste in my mouth.
Wrong. You can buy NEW Echo batteries like the above all day long from suppliers on eBay for less than $150. Try that with Ego or Ryobi.
Your video is not very good, you don,t show the 4 hidden screws and the 58v bench power supply is an expensive piece of kit for the everyday person.
Sorry you did not like the video... What hidden screws are you referring to? I do talk about the 4 screws under the covers on the top. I am not aware of any other screws.
@@DanPattenAudioG33k I might have missed you mentioning the 4 screws under the plastic caps on top of the battery but it would have been better if you showed them to veiwers.
On the contrary, IMO Dan has done an excellent job on the video and explained everything in the minutest detail for the batteries he fixed. Yes he owns a fairly flash power supply (that I am very jealous of) but why is that a fault. Dan doesn't receive any monetary reward for his efforts that I know of and should be congratulated for his good work especially since I see that he comes back here and repeatedly answers questions he has already explained in the video.
The AEG battery pack has the same internals as the ECHO but I suspect the AEG charger is a better unit. The AEG pack has the 4 top screws covered by little plastic caps, they serve no purpose except that because they are very difficult to remove without damaging them they indicate whether someone has previously taken the pack apart or not.
AEG don't seem to repair any of their products in Australia, a relative had a near new pack that wasn't under warranty because he was the 2nd owner but AEG wouldn't even look at it. They told us the only option was to buy a new battery at $300! The pack would only run for a few minutes from fully charged before shutting down. After resting for a few seconds it would then work for a short time before shutting down again.
I found Dan's video and tried resetting the pack but it didn't help. All the cells are connected in parallel pairs and each pair was measuring 4.05 V except one at 3.8 V so it was obviously the weak link in the chain and the BMS was shutting down the whole pack because of it. The cells have spot welded connections so I can't replace them however I have found a repairer who can and will get them to do it for me. The repairer said he can't offer any warranty because of the unknowns of the BMS circuit board but I will take that chance. I will report back with my success or failure in a month or so (the repairer is a long way away).
@@greglahey3071 The video was OK for me but the thrifty toolshop did a really good one. Personally, I wouldn't,t never buy the AEG 58v again (or echo). They are too expensive, unreliable, difficult to fix and have poor customer service. ( AEG anyway ). Got a EGO electric blower, no problems and I, 'll stick with my Honda gas trimmer.
@@ismoinkinen1591 Yes AEG in Australia didn't want anything to do with me either, they told me to find the receipt to have it replaced under warranty or just buy a new one. My regular power tool repairer wasn't interested, they just didn't work on Lithium battery packs but I eventually found someone who was happy to replace my failed cell so long as I would take responsibility for the BMS so I am going to go down that path when I can deliver it to him. As a matter of interest the AEG brand is owned by Techtronics Industries who also own Ryobi and Milwaukee so I guess we can expect similar treatment from them as well.