11 hours to fit a colour wheel plus new bulb deap clean every part right down to the chassis..few problems forgot a plug a cable back in lol. Thank you so much for the video Frank watched it 7 times lol..iv got 5 white marks on the screen..strip down again tomorrow 😊
Thank you so much for providing such a thorough walk through of the repair. I recently had a color wheel explode on my BenQ HT3550 and this helped so much. I have it back together and it's working! It does appear that the exploding glass fragments may have done some damage to the the Cinema filter (not sure what the name for that part is) on the other side of the glass light tunnel. I intermittently but more commonly now have a large area of dark (blue tint) diagonally across the top right side of the screen. I used to be able to get that to go away by cycling through the modes from Cinema to Dark Cinema to Vivid etc. When manually or automatically changing the light mode/filter it used to correspond to a clicking or actuation noise this noise is less obvious now (possibly part of the problem). Have you ever come across this type of issue? I'm going to take the whole optical assembly out again and this time very carefully inspect, remove and clean the light filter component. If it is broken do you think that BenQ will provide a replacement part as happily and cheaply as the Color Wheel. Once again thank you so much for your super helpful videos!
Interesting design with the colour wheel inside the optic block assembly...is that good or bad.... on the plus side it gives you a chance to check out the state of the glass and mirror parts for dust. Merry Christmas Frank, I have enjoyed your videos throughout the year, all the best for 2023. Best wishes to you and your family from sunny Thailand. 😎😎😎👍😁
Merry Christmas to you and your family too! I'm glad you enjoyed the videos and I truly thank you for commenting/watching. It truly keeps me motivated. I'm not sure on if that design is good or not. I see pros and cons. Heat dissipation is better but access is worse. Might help keep dust out? Might keep it inside. I'll need to see a few more first. My mildly educated guess is that its a compromise between a good design and the bean counters at BenQ determining the cost to build.
Merry Christmas Franky! Another excellent repair my friend! Unfortunately this is also a pixel shift model. It is a TK810 here in Europe. I do not know what the Hell is with companies changing the model numbers for US and EU markets, my only guess is with the voltage difference, but again, how difficult it is for a unit to operate under 120V and 230V at the same time? Computer power supplies do that for ages now. Anyway it was an enjoyable and thorough repair. Thanks again buddy for all the educational tips and your hard work!
Merry Christmas George! I just read the Projectorcentral review and it is pixel shift. I saw the native resolution listing and figured it was a 4K dmd. "4 phase pixel shift"... That does explain one of the wires going into the optics. The ht3550 has a switching supply so it should be fine 90-250v 50/60hz. My guess is it has more to do with the marketing content rules so they have different models to keep things clean in the European market. Just a guess though. I've heard that about other things sold in both markets.
Amazing hands on guide to replace Benq 3550 color wheel, but I wonder if you could point me in the right direction with the 3 pin sensor board connectors---like your own example, my wires were also burned, but also the connector plug is cracked and 2 of the 3 plastic places where you push the pins through are gone, ie; nothing separating wires where they go in---tried cross referencing by motherboard micro 3 pin fan plug--would you happen to know what they are properly or how I can find some replacements? Thanks so much!
That's tough. Personally I would probably glue or epoxy the pins to the connector. Once its plugged in it wont move anymore. then on the board side, I would resolder them or replace them with new wire. You can probably find one from an e-recycler but the cost will be fairly high with shipping. You might be able to use one from an old W1070 or similar. I do think the wires are the same but the actual board is shaped differently. More importantly make sure the lamp is replaced. If the wires burned, the lamp is potentially a knock off without a proper IR/UV filter. That is what I tend to see when the wires are burned. good luck!
@@FixitFrank thanks for getting back to me---I was looking for the same kind of burned wires you demonstrated in your video, but the burning seemed to be mostly within the plug itself so from the outside it only looked discolored and nothing else until I pulled it apart---I ended up trying out some gorilla glue with idea to separately stabilize the connector plug well enough to reattach the wire leads later, but there didn't seem to be enough insulation between the wires, so I did over again, this time reattached wires/leads wrapped in UL tape to the plug, pinched plug, wires and leads together long enough for the glue to set and several hours later, hopefully the glue is cured and I will put it back together a 2nd time, and yes, I did replace the lamp at the same time, so fingers crossed and I would never have gotten this far without your amazing video and I just want to thank you again!!😁
Hello, Lately my ht3550 projector is showing a small stain in the bottom left part of the screen, barely visible when projecting a plain color. It seems like a transparent stain . I cleaned the lens (external part) without inprovement. Is it possible that the problem would be caused by the uv coating in the glass that is in the lamp housing? I made photos of the stain. Is it possible to upload them? Thank you !!
1ty.me/I0FAvoTEf Here is a one-time link with my info. You can send pictures there. I doubt it is the lens. The light tunnel would be suspect but you are correct in thinking that pictures would be very helpful with diagnosis.
@@FixitFrankhello, I removed the lamp from the projector, and everything looked very new and clean. I ran the vacuum as you told me and the issue remained, in the same position and shape. The UV/IR filter isn't broken, but if I look at it very close with a good light, I can see small dots. I removed it and cleaned it with a dry soft cloth, then I placed it in its position and tried to project again. The projected stain was still the same and in the same position, and probably I changed the position of the UV filter (and maybe I flipped its faces) The lamp bulb reflector also has small dots on its internal surface. Do you think the issue may be caused by the light bulb or by the lamp UV filter? The lamp hours of use (it is the first lamp in this projector) are the following: Normal mode: 277 hours Eco mode: 641 hours Smart eco mode: 0 hours Equivalent lamp hours : 1600 hours Or would it be better to try to do an internal cleaning? I sent you the pictures I made. Thank you!!
Finally! Found your page through web searches and you seem to be the best for these types of issues. I had a couple of quick questions (and you can email me personally if you wish, if it's too much for these comments!): My HT3550 just died last night, mid movie, no prelude, no warning, just...quit. No indicator lights or anything. Power is going to it, and I tried a different outlet, etc. So, question 1: is there a quick thing to look for (I used to work as an instrument electrician, but wanted to get advice before diving in), ie a fuse? What are some other items that might be bad, ie an easily replaceable power supply (doubt it, after looking at your videos!)? And 3, would you be interested in buying it for parts? I really love the projector, so much so that I just bought a second one since I want to use it this weekend (cheaper than the first time!), so I'm not sworn off Benq just yet! I'm just not sure I want to go to too much trouble to dive into it without previous experience in these projectors. Thank you, and I love your content so far!
It definitely could be a fuse, or the lamp door switch. Make sure that lamp door cover is secure. It pushes a mains switch that lets the power flow. If that door popped loose or the switch cracked, that could be the cause. Of course there is also the possibility of a power supply issue. they are technically replaceable but I prefer to repair them since it's usually cheaper and faster(and easier to find). I might be interested in buying it. I have some ideas for some videos that it could be useful for... Also, in the future, if you can swing it, get yourself an Online UPS to plug the projector into. I like the older APC SmartUPS series. You can buy them from ebay without batteries for pretty cheap. then hit up amazon for new 12v 7ah batteries and you are up and running. the Online UPS' are always using the battery to power the output inverter. This acts as an AC voltage regulator to keep your line voltage constant which really helps lamp life and also gives you a few minutes to shut down the projector if the power cuts out. Most UPS's are not online and switch when the power drops out. Those are not as useful for this. I run a 1500VA on my projector and its plenty. I think you can use a 650VA (500 watts or higher). this is just a suggestion in case a power issue caused your failure. Their power supplies tend to be pretty reliable so I kind of think you got hit by something external rather than a projector failure. I do have to ask, have you replaced the lamp recently? I have seen amazon lamps cause this sort of problem after a few weeks.
@@FixitFrank Thank you very much for the detailed response! I'll check out those couple of items initially to see if that's a possibility. And yes, I actually have that type of UPS that is dedicated to the projector, though I have used a power conditioner for a while previously as well, so it's typically clean power reaching it. Thank you for the suggestion, though! If it looks like it's going to be a bit more involved, and since I have another on the way, I'll likely sell it. That would be interesting to see what you would post about it. Thanks again, and we'll stay in touch and I'll let you know.
Great! I always like to suggest the online UPS when people have power issues. It would stink to have a second failure if its preventable. Sounds good to me, I will wait to hear from you! I do have an email listed on the about page about halfway down if you need to get in touch.
@@FixitFrank Hey! I didn't see the email there on the about page, I may have missed something! If you put a "T" in the middle of my shown name along with at Gmail, that would be my email. We can start there if you like!
I think its only visible on desktop. I'd list it in the descriptions but when I used to, I would get so many spammers and scams sent to me. I'll email you shortly!
I have a Benq TK850, color wheel shattered with a loud pop. Following this wonderful video, I was able to disassemble the unit to remove the color wheel, marked PVM9A-F2. I cannot find any replacement anywhere.
color wheels are kind of weird. I usually order them by the model of the projector and/or the color sequence. try contacting the folks I use. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com They ship DHL and take paypal. They should be able to help.
Thanks@@FixitFrank . Thing is, the wheel shattered in a way where I cannot tell the sequence. The colors and the relative portions of said colors, I can tell.
thats okay. Just let them know it shattered. Its more of a "confirmation" thing so you don't have to send it back if you gave the wrong model number or something like that.
Good job. In conclusion, I understand that it is not advisable to buy a projector with a color wheel, especially if it is a BenQ. It seems that the LG models have better construction, materials and sealing, in fact they weigh twice as much, as the HU810. The HU710 doesn't even have a color wheel as it switches the LEDs.
Color wheels are fine. Problem with LEDs is that they are not bright enough. They also fail even though they are supposed to be 20,000+ hours. Keep in mind this is literally the cheapest 4K projector for sale. Comparing it to an HU710 isn't entirely fair. They are totally different build qualities. Its like comparing a Ford to a Mercedes. I have seen plenty of bad LG devices but LG is still a good comapny. The main issue with all devices is lack of maintenance. Take care of it and it will last and not give you much trouble.
@@FixitFrank I think it's better to avoid moving parts like the color wheel. Maybe the new BenQ HT4550 with a 4 LED light engine with green channel boost , 3200 lumens and 0.65" DMD might interest me, since the HU710's ventilation system doesn't allow me to install it in the bookstore, although its interior design is excellent. Search for "The ultimate spannende TearDown! LG AU/HU810P".
Hi, I just had the color wheel shatter and then the picture was like greenish . Turned it off and ordered a new one . Got it in place and all back together and hit power . Light turns green , but nothing comes on ? Then after like 10 seconds power light goes back to red like it’s in standby. Does this mean the lamp blew as well ? Or is something else wrong ?
is the lamp cover on? Did you test it before putting the top on so you can see that the new wheel is spinning? Do the fans come on? What else have you checked? Its odd for a color wheel to shatter and still have a picture. Usually they shut right down. I don't know exactly what you did, so its tough to say what is wrong. I would go back over your work. Make sure everything is plugged in, bypass the door switch and run it without the top before you close it up. that will almost always bring out murphy's law.
I have the tk850 model , was watching and hear a pop then loud steady noise continued. The the image stayed on but was a stead green hue . Once I replaced the wheel I hooked everything back up completely and when I hit power nothing comes on , no fans , no bulb , no noise of any power other than the light turning green for -0-15 seconds then red . ( lamp & temp indicators have no lights at all ) . I
@@FixitFrank update , it was the door switch , first go around the cable wasn’t plugged in . The second go around I didnt have lid on to activate it . 3rd time was the charm I had it on and cable in place . Thanks for the troubleshooting tips . Great work !!!
Awesome!! The only reason I suggest those things is because I have done them numerous times myself. Fix one thing, forget the other, go back, fix that, forget something else. etc. I've gotten better at remembering those things but I never take it for granted. I'm one wrong movement away from making a mistake. I never forget that :)
So my color wheel burst. It was a BenQ manufacture refurbished unit. It seemed great, and just past the 1 year warranty, the color wheel exploded. It wasn't super hot, there wasn't much dust inside the unit, and I've never dropped it or anything. I was pretty peeved, but ordered one from BenQ directly for like, $70. Got around to the repair today (this video is AMAZING), but I have a huge problem. That cable at 21:05 that was a bit burnt for you? Mine was completely crispy. At barely a touch, the plastic connector/header piece completely crumbled. I can't find that specific cable on eBay or anything, and the size of that header doesn't quite match any other piece of electronics I have, what are my options? Is that cable the same as any other, more popular cable that I might be able to order easier? Or will I have to go through BenQ directly for that?
Okay, so going further in the video, is that just the one part of the IR cable? So... can I run it without this cable? Not having the remote sucks, but I really don't feel like paying an arm and a leg and waiting for weeks for the cable to come in for something I don't even really use that much.
Oh no..That sucks. You do need that cable. It is for infrared but its the color wheel sensors infrared signal that its sensing. I would just hard solder it to the board and add shrink tubing or kapton tape over the burned wires. If you want to find a replacement, you can try the folks I use. They have access to an e-recycler who ends up with a lot of these sort of parts. gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is their contact info. Let them know I referred you if you go that route.
He didn't have the part, but I got it from BenQ direct for cheap. The new cable works fine, but now I have a new problem - there's a horrendously loud rattling/rumbling sound. It's none of the fans, and it seems to be coming from around where the lenses are. I see that the color wheel is not spinning. Is there a motor or something that spins the color wheel that.. Just not spinning, or it's spinning freely or something, causing the rumbling?
Sorry, color wheel IS spinning. I've taken everything apart and put it back together, reseating everything, and still it persists, just a blaringly loud whirring sound that's definitely coming from the color wheel, or the housing there.
Not sure if you've fixed this issue yet but mine suddenly developed the same sound that you seem to have. I opened up the unit using Franks awesome video and a piece of tape had come loose and was touching one of the fans, causing the noise issue. I cut the tape and then the sound went away!! Worth a look@@minkiz888
Frank, Christmas isn't for another two days. Interesting to see inside one of these. I'm considering the TK850 variant sometime down the road as an upgrade. Kinda interesting (and annoying) that the colorwheel is stuck inside the entire optic assembly like that. Also do you know who the OEM is? That LF logo was stamped all over but I'm not sure who that is. In any case, Happy Holidays to you!
Merry Christmas buddy! Im not actually sure. LF could be the board house that made the PCBs. I still think these are Delta possibly or some other sub set of Qizda like Lextar?
@@FixitFrank I had a BenQ MS524AE that the lamp connector fried (The SAME style connector as this PJ has). I didn't know about you at the time, but that wasn't the only issue it had haha. Was honestly a strange little projector. I still have the DMD board, but all the boards had LF and askpcb printed all over it.
Hallo, super video! Habe mit dem W2700 auch ein Problem nämlich der DCI-P3 Filter steckt fest - kommt nicht mehr aus dem Lichtkanal heraus. Kann man das Teil reparieren oder muss da ein neues eingebaut sein. Also elektrisch geht man kann leichter Klick hören. Habe den auch Mal rausbekommen aber da muss der Beamer schon sehr lange mit Normale Lampe Einstellungen laufen. Wo kann ich den Ersatz Cinema Filter bestellen? VG....
New subscriber here! This is great! I have the exact projector which i use daily. 3 white dots or dead pixels showed up. Is this due to the color wheel? Should i replace it?
Hey frank great video I just took my projector apart it's super dirty my color wheel broke I hear a loud noise though it was a dirty fan so Unplugged it I just open it up it super dusty and found a pieces of the the color wheel missing but before it broke I also had one small pixies loss on the screen can I send to you for fixing or were can I get the parts ?
Hello! you would need a DMD and a color wheel(and it sounds like it needed a cleaning). You can get both of those from the supplier I use. Time electronics. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is their email. Let them know I referred you and they can help you out. If you get stuck, you can send it to me(if you are in the USA) but I am kind of jammed up work wise for at least the next 2-3 weeks.
@@FixitFrank I see thank you frank yes I am in the USA I'm in California I'm going to get the parts first I never done a repair like this but I'm going to try I will let you know if I get stuck I'm willing to send it to you.
I've always been kind of interested what the Wide Color Gamut filter looks like in these units, I know some of the older Epsons had a filter that would mount to the front to help give wider color range, it was very similar to an FL Day filter. Ever see that while repairing one of these or a similar DLP unit?
Not in a DLP no, but that doesn't mean it never happened. Some of the older higher end projectors had all sorts of optical magic going on. My understanding is that by using more colors in the color wheel, they obtain the same or similar affect. Don't quote me on that though. I just repair these. I am far from a projector design engineer.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the response! I picked up a Vivitek HK2288 used which already has really good color with a RGBRGB color wheel but is a little weak for HDR I do use MadVR to help with this though. I was actually able to expand the color gamut by using a Hoya Starscape filter, this may be similar to what they use in projectors for wide gamut mode. I feel like this projector is a bit underrated, the contrast is almost unheard of for 4k DLP (I measured around 2000:1, versus 600:1 for the HT3550), it's not far off from an older high end 1080p without iris (certain Runco or Sim2 models, some definitely exceed this significantly though). I also have a 6050UB and the HK2288 is not as bright or the same level of contrast (I measure up to 4:000-10:000:1 depending on iris settings) but the sharpness is definitely a step up. Colors are actually pretty close. I prefer the 6050UB for movies but the HK2288 is actually better for games due to the extra resolution, the 6050UB cost me about 5x as much though.
Man ive watched half your videos already. Youre amazing! I just pick this same projector up used and the guy scammed me. Said it worked fine when i got home half the screen had white lines throught it. Was reading around a lot some said it was DMD board of the left side i guess this has 2. Others said it could just be the connections of the side that needed to be tighter. Any idea ? I Know this is a old video and if you respond id be delighted! Ive worked on plenty electronics so if its the DMD i dont mind changing it myself. But dont want to order of if thats not the issue and i could just check the connectors ya know. Keep up the sweet videos and thanks for the great content!
Actually cleaning the connections sensors worked! No more lines on the left. Last thing to do is align the lenses as i have a corner in the bottom left that is out of focus. Watched a few and seen how you align them. But still scared to pop the lens out lol
@@treyk4505 Thank you and Nice job! Its probably not the lenses. I would leave them alone. Instead make sure the projector is parallel with the screen. At the worst it's the DMD not sitting flat maybe. Definitely not lenses though. They will not cause a corner to be out of focus. If your zoom is all the way out, that might be why. There is a some acceptable variance in focus on the consumer models. If you zoom in slightly and it clears up, then thats just "how it is". I would not take the main lens apart for any reason. It will be a nightmare to put back together and never work right again. Another possibility is the light tunnel shifted and its not getting enough light in the corner and comes across as out of focus. A few thing to keep in mind and good luck!
@@FixitFrankAppreciate the comment majorly! And I think it’s definitely the light tunnel. I watched your other videos and noticed how you use the 2 screws. It’s certainly not the lens so going to try and see if I can can find those screws on the chassis while keeping the power of the unit on! You rock in so many ways ! 💪🏽
I've seen a few common failures. A few are preventable in my opinion. 1. Dust build up causes the aluminum hub to expand and contract. Over the months that can cause the glue to fail and the centrifugal force makes the segments fly out. That's preventable with routine cleaning. 2. Burning the segments with lamp assemlies using the wrong UV/IR filter lenses. They dump heat into the wheel causing the same thing as #1. 3. Age. Most wheels use what I believe is an oil bronze bushing. Those will eventually wear out. That takes a while though. I see it in projectors that are more than 5-6 years old. No way to prevent this. Within reason. Ball bearings are a possibility and I have seen color wheels use them but they can fail too with age. Most manufacturers recommend color wheel replacement in the service manual. High end projectors(digital projection 6800 I have upcoming) have color wheel modules that are field replaceable. Maintenance is the best way to get the most life but there is no real way to keep one from never failing, at least not cost effectively.
I've found that keeping the dust down may help extend the life, I've always kept an air purifier in the same room and vacuum regularly. My older Sharp DT-500 projector saw probably 8000 hours over ~8 years or so and the color wheel never failed. I did clean the color wheel once and there was a bit of buildup on it. No issues on my Vivitek 1186 either, has several thousand hours on it as well, I checked the color wheel recently and there is zero buildup.
Sorry to pull you up Frank, but there is NO such thing as a native 4k dmd, unless it's a commercial cinema, that th3550 uses pixel shifting 4 times via a .47 inch 1080p chip...
I know. You'll see it was already mentioned a while ago. I was reading the projector central listing and they list the DMD as a 4k which is incorrect. For my purpose it doesn't really matter though. Doesn't change the repair
never worry about pulling me up(learned a new term). I am not an expert! I am still learning myself. I just happen to sound more confident than maybe I should be ;)
Just purchased the same projector after seeing your video it has a broken colour wheel plus iam going to fit a new bulb..bargain £65..parts ordered wish me luck lol
Hi Frank how did you get into the service menu please..you are to fast for me lol watched it 5 times I still miss it..just waiting for parts.thanks justin
I have a unique problem with my projector and I hope you can help. I have Optoma HD143X projector and the brightness and color of the projector seems below par for the first 4 to 5hrs of use (still usable). After that, it suddenly turns bright, vivid and sharp (just like how it should be), but I'm unable to understand why it takes a few hours for this to happen. This is very random with no pattern, sometimes it takes 6hrs or at times I don't see the vivid colors and brightness at all. I changed the HDMI cable and also tried connecting to a laptop and that didn't help. I'm guessing the issue might be with the lamp (lamp hours less than 35% used) or color wheel? Or just dust? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My Ht3550 just had a fan die on me, about to do a swap. Do you happen to remember the sizes of the fans? Looking to put in three better quality fans but cannot seem to find any specs online for the fans. Great video though seems to be a lack of sources for the HT3550s.
Thank you! I like to stick with the OEM fans. The CFM, reporting/monitoring are pretty critical to match. Especially for the cost. You want to buy the same model ADDA (or Sunon) fans or you stand to get lots of fan errors. These throttle the fans depending on load and if anything varies too far from what it is expecting, it will shut down and throw the temp error. Plus the blower fan is only that specific blower. Others of the same spec wont match the duct to the lamp assembly. All that said, if you lookup the data sheets for the part #s listed on the fan stickers, you will get the specs. If you can match them with better qualify fans without changing the speed/cfm/current draw/reporting method, then you might be able to upgrade them.
@FixitFrank So I got brand new OEM fans, got an extra because figured I might as well switch a dirty one. Now both the fans I switched are not spinning, but my fan error is gone. The projector boots and runs fine now, but I worry about the heat with two fans running. The exhaust temp is around 120 F. Any idea what could be causing the two fans not to run?
Hi Luis! I mostly use a company in China called Time Electronics. They ship everywhere and take paypal. Their sales rep is fantastic. It kind of depends on the part though. I have not found a service manual for the ht3550 yet myself. Those are increasingly harder to find. What kind of problem are you having?
@FixitFrank ,,i have the same projector, since 2019, it's great,,,but since watching your video,I'll like to be a little ready in case i have any issues,,,,,1 more question,, i will need to open projector to be able to keep those areas free of dust?,,thanks for reply.
You should be okay for a little while. For now, you can use a vacuum cleaner and use it to suck any dust out of the vents. A dry paint brush works well to loosen the dust up. I would not use compressed air due to pushing dust into the optics. Some dust is inevitable, but if you limit or slow down the build up, the projector should run problem free. Next time you replace the lamp assembly, vacuum out the inside where the housing goes. Be sure to use the brush to poke inside the hole of the blower fan and knock that dust free. If you do this occasionally( one a year is enough, 4 times a year is best ) the projector should not have any big problems. The color wheel might wear out and of course bulbs, but nothing else should be a problem.
I was just looking for a disassembly video of this projector to get an idea of what it would take to replace the fans with quieter ones and only 16 hours ago this gets uploaded! Thanks a lot for the detailed video! What are your thoughts about replacing the fans with for example the Noctua NF-A9 PWM, would it be even possible or worth it? Btw, I took a look through the grill in mine and the fan is indeed blowing into the projector, the way you already thought it should be facing.
Thanks for confirming the fan direction. I was pretty sure after the fact but now I feel way better about it. Unfortunately I have been down the Noctua rabbit hole and they just won't work. The problem is that they move less air per minute, and their status wire reports the RPMs differently. The way Noctua's run quiet is that they spin a little slower(along with the blade design). The lower RPM will trip the fan error warning and it won't cool well enough. Your best bet for quieting a projector is to look into building a Hush Box. Those you can put Noctua fans into and that will preserve the projector with its proper parts. There are tons of DIY hush box options. I'd look into that personally.
@@FixitFrank @FixitFrank Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't realize hush boxes are a thing. I checked the specs of the Noctua and compared it to the Sunon that's used in this projector. The Noctua actually has a higher airflow (78,9 vs 67 m3/h) with less noise (22,8 vs 28 dB(A)). The RPM's are slightly lower (2000 vs 2400) but the main problem seems to be the status wire indeed, the Sunon just reports whether the fan is running or not (active low) where the Noctua actually reports the frequency using a pulsing signal. It should be possible to convert the pulse signal to an on/off signal (if pulses are detected output low) using a simple circuit or just tie the status to ground to bypass the check. Anyway, after seeing your video I realized the main noise producer is probably the radial fan instead of the case fans. I couldn't find any specs after googling the partnumber I pulled from your video which makes it difficult to find a possible replacement. So for now I'll definitely start looking into building a hush box. Happy holidays!
I had a 3550 I sold it for a epson 4010 because the benq would break around every 6 months well this one would so much troulbe it was a big let down benq kept sending me a different projector evey 6 months on the last one the DMD went out I wish they would put in a filter becuase it was allways getting dirty
You never know! I didn't notice any physical damage to the outside of the case so I suspect its the usual thermal expansion/contraction of the color wheel that caused the glue to finally break. But a drop could definitely damage things like this.
I have found benq is the worst projector company I paid $1700 for a brand new tk850 the DMD chip started getting white pixels everywhere they fixed it for free 4 months later happened again so they fixed it 6 months later yet again more white dots everywhere so they ended up sending me a refurb unit and 6 months later bulb fan died they fixed it 8 months later color wheel exploded glass everywhere inside I could hear it sloshing around contacted them they said they would send me another unit and I was happy next day they said they made a mistake and the original warranty was no longer valid and basically told me to kick rocks. 10-21-2023 I just went on Amazon and purchased an Optoma UHD55 for $999 and it’s a better projector than the TK850 for $700 cheaper. I will never buy a benq product again I may in the future send the tk850 in for repair and just sell it after I get it back.
I have heard that but i will warn you optoma is almost worse. i wont even work on the uhd units anymore. They tend to fail right out of warranty. their uhz(laser) stuff seems okay but both Benq and optoma have some manufacturing issues with their entry and step passed entry level projectors. Also the symptoms you are describing(exploding lamp) and the dmd are usually heat related. make sure you have more than enough airflow near the projector. if its up high and in a pocket it can cook itself enough to cause these problems but not warn you of overheating. I do suspect you got some lemons from benq but if you have temp problems where the projector goes, any brand or model will have issues. also, I just subbed to your channel, you're almost at 1K! best of luck man!
You can get it from BenQ directly, or eBay is perfectly fine. The main thing is to make sure the color order is correct and the little index mark sticker is in the right spot. There is no real difference between OEM and aftermarket color wheels in my experience. I use a company in China (time electronics). They ship DHL and take paypal. Their contact info is gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com
Oh wow I didn’t even see are you still doing this ? What’s your contact ? I have my projector all apart I’m just trying to confirm which color wheel to buy from your guy. If it doesn’t work I’m happy to send it to you
The lamp inside looks super bright white You think is the color wheel ? I looked everywhere for the color wheel and tried to find the closest match . Everything is green tint
11 hours to fit a colour wheel plus new bulb deap clean every part right down to the chassis..few problems forgot a plug a cable back in lol.
Thank you so much for the video Frank watched it 7 times lol..iv got 5 white marks on the screen..strip down again tomorrow 😊
You still had issues after the color wheel? Or do you think the dmd chip is bad now cause the white dots?
DMD chip.
@@mattblais203 dots sound like a DMD chip issue forsure.
Thank you so much for providing such a thorough walk through of the repair. I recently had a color wheel explode on my BenQ HT3550 and this helped so much. I have it back together and it's working! It does appear that the exploding glass fragments may have done some damage to the the Cinema filter (not sure what the name for that part is) on the other side of the glass light tunnel. I intermittently but more commonly now have a large area of dark (blue tint) diagonally across the top right side of the screen. I used to be able to get that to go away by cycling through the modes from Cinema to Dark Cinema to Vivid etc. When manually or automatically changing the light mode/filter it used to correspond to a clicking or actuation noise this noise is less obvious now (possibly part of the problem). Have you ever come across this type of issue? I'm going to take the whole optical assembly out again and this time very carefully inspect, remove and clean the light filter component. If it is broken do you think that BenQ will provide a replacement part as happily and cheaply as the Color Wheel. Once again thank you so much for your super helpful videos!
Thank you, for a man, best christmas present ever :) !!
You're very welcome! Merry Christmas to you too
Interesting design with the colour wheel inside the optic block assembly...is that good or bad.... on the plus side it gives you a chance to check out the state of the glass and mirror parts for dust.
Merry Christmas Frank, I have enjoyed your videos throughout the year, all the best for 2023. Best wishes to you and your family from sunny Thailand. 😎😎😎👍😁
Merry Christmas to you and your family too! I'm glad you enjoyed the videos and I truly thank you for commenting/watching. It truly keeps me motivated.
I'm not sure on if that design is good or not. I see pros and cons. Heat dissipation is better but access is worse. Might help keep dust out? Might keep it inside. I'll need to see a few more first. My mildly educated guess is that its a compromise between a good design and the bean counters at BenQ determining the cost to build.
Merry Christmas Franky! Another excellent repair my friend! Unfortunately this is also a pixel shift model. It is a TK810 here in Europe. I do not know what the Hell is with companies changing the model numbers for US and EU markets, my only guess is with the voltage difference, but again, how difficult it is for a unit to operate under 120V and 230V at the same time? Computer power supplies do that for ages now. Anyway it was an enjoyable and thorough repair. Thanks again buddy for all the educational tips and your hard work!
Merry Christmas George! I just read the Projectorcentral review and it is pixel shift. I saw the native resolution listing and figured it was a 4K dmd. "4 phase pixel shift"... That does explain one of the wires going into the optics.
The ht3550 has a switching supply so it should be fine 90-250v 50/60hz. My guess is it has more to do with the marketing content rules so they have different models to keep things clean in the European market. Just a guess though. I've heard that about other things sold in both markets.
Amazing hands on guide to replace Benq 3550 color wheel, but I wonder if you could point me in the right direction with the 3 pin sensor board connectors---like your own example, my wires were also burned, but also the connector plug is cracked and 2 of the 3 plastic places where you push the pins through are gone, ie; nothing separating wires where they go in---tried cross referencing by motherboard micro 3 pin fan plug--would you happen to know what they are properly or how I can find some replacements? Thanks so much!
That's tough. Personally I would probably glue or epoxy the pins to the connector. Once its plugged in it wont move anymore. then on the board side, I would resolder them or replace them with new wire.
You can probably find one from an e-recycler but the cost will be fairly high with shipping. You might be able to use one from an old W1070 or similar. I do think the wires are the same but the actual board is shaped differently.
More importantly make sure the lamp is replaced. If the wires burned, the lamp is potentially a knock off without a proper IR/UV filter. That is what I tend to see when the wires are burned.
good luck!
@@FixitFrank thanks for getting back to me---I was looking for the same kind of burned wires you demonstrated in your video, but the burning seemed to be mostly within the plug itself so from the outside it only looked discolored and nothing else until I pulled it apart---I ended up trying out some gorilla glue with idea to separately stabilize the connector plug well enough to reattach the wire leads later, but there didn't seem to be enough insulation between the wires, so I did over again, this time reattached wires/leads wrapped in UL tape to the plug, pinched plug, wires and leads together long enough for the glue to set and several hours later, hopefully the glue is cured and I will put it back together a 2nd time, and yes, I did replace the lamp at the same time, so fingers crossed and I would never have gotten this far without your amazing video and I just want to thank you again!!😁
Hello,
Lately my ht3550 projector is showing a small stain in the bottom left part of the screen, barely visible when projecting a plain color. It seems like a transparent stain . I cleaned the lens (external part) without inprovement.
Is it possible that the problem would be caused by the uv coating in the glass that is in the lamp housing?
I made photos of the stain. Is it possible to upload them?
Thank you !!
1ty.me/I0FAvoTEf Here is a one-time link with my info. You can send pictures there. I doubt it is the lens. The light tunnel would be suspect but you are correct in thinking that pictures would be very helpful with diagnosis.
@@FixitFrank hello! I already did. Thank you!!
@@FixitFrankhello,
I removed the lamp from the projector, and everything looked very new and clean. I ran the vacuum as you told me and the issue remained, in the same position and shape.
The UV/IR filter isn't broken, but if I look at it very close with a good light, I can see small dots.
I removed it and cleaned it with a dry soft cloth, then I placed it in its position and tried to project again. The projected stain was still the same and in the same position, and probably I changed the position of the UV filter (and maybe I flipped its faces)
The lamp bulb reflector also has small dots on its internal surface.
Do you think the issue may be caused by the light bulb or by the lamp UV filter?
The lamp hours of use (it is the first lamp in this projector) are the following:
Normal mode: 277 hours
Eco mode: 641 hours
Smart eco mode: 0 hours
Equivalent lamp hours : 1600 hours
Or would it be better to try to do an internal cleaning?
I sent you the pictures I made.
Thank you!!
Finally! Found your page through web searches and you seem to be the best for these types of issues. I had a couple of quick questions (and you can email me personally if you wish, if it's too much for these comments!): My HT3550 just died last night, mid movie, no prelude, no warning, just...quit. No indicator lights or anything. Power is going to it, and I tried a different outlet, etc. So, question 1: is there a quick thing to look for (I used to work as an instrument electrician, but wanted to get advice before diving in), ie a fuse? What are some other items that might be bad, ie an easily replaceable power supply (doubt it, after looking at your videos!)? And 3, would you be interested in buying it for parts? I really love the projector, so much so that I just bought a second one since I want to use it this weekend (cheaper than the first time!), so I'm not sworn off Benq just yet! I'm just not sure I want to go to too much trouble to dive into it without previous experience in these projectors. Thank you, and I love your content so far!
It definitely could be a fuse, or the lamp door switch. Make sure that lamp door cover is secure. It pushes a mains switch that lets the power flow. If that door popped loose or the switch cracked, that could be the cause. Of course there is also the possibility of a power supply issue. they are technically replaceable but I prefer to repair them since it's usually cheaper and faster(and easier to find).
I might be interested in buying it. I have some ideas for some videos that it could be useful for...
Also, in the future, if you can swing it, get yourself an Online UPS to plug the projector into. I like the older APC SmartUPS series. You can buy them from ebay without batteries for pretty cheap. then hit up amazon for new 12v 7ah batteries and you are up and running. the Online UPS' are always using the battery to power the output inverter. This acts as an AC voltage regulator to keep your line voltage constant which really helps lamp life and also gives you a few minutes to shut down the projector if the power cuts out. Most UPS's are not online and switch when the power drops out. Those are not as useful for this. I run a 1500VA on my projector and its plenty. I think you can use a 650VA (500 watts or higher). this is just a suggestion in case a power issue caused your failure. Their power supplies tend to be pretty reliable so I kind of think you got hit by something external rather than a projector failure. I do have to ask, have you replaced the lamp recently? I have seen amazon lamps cause this sort of problem after a few weeks.
@@FixitFrank Thank you very much for the detailed response! I'll check out those couple of items initially to see if that's a possibility. And yes, I actually have that type of UPS that is dedicated to the projector, though I have used a power conditioner for a while previously as well, so it's typically clean power reaching it. Thank you for the suggestion, though! If it looks like it's going to be a bit more involved, and since I have another on the way, I'll likely sell it. That would be interesting to see what you would post about it. Thanks again, and we'll stay in touch and I'll let you know.
Great! I always like to suggest the online UPS when people have power issues. It would stink to have a second failure if its preventable.
Sounds good to me, I will wait to hear from you! I do have an email listed on the about page about halfway down if you need to get in touch.
@@FixitFrank Hey! I didn't see the email there on the about page, I may have missed something! If you put a "T" in the middle of my shown name along with at Gmail, that would be my email. We can start there if you like!
I think its only visible on desktop. I'd list it in the descriptions but when I used to, I would get so many spammers and scams sent to me. I'll email you shortly!
I have a Benq TK850, color wheel shattered with a loud pop. Following this wonderful video, I was able to disassemble the unit to remove the color wheel, marked PVM9A-F2. I cannot find any replacement anywhere.
color wheels are kind of weird. I usually order them by the model of the projector and/or the color sequence. try contacting the folks I use. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com They ship DHL and take paypal. They should be able to help.
Thanks@@FixitFrank . Thing is, the wheel shattered in a way where I cannot tell the sequence. The colors and the relative portions of said colors, I can tell.
thats okay. Just let them know it shattered. Its more of a "confirmation" thing so you don't have to send it back if you gave the wrong model number or something like that.
Any luck? Similar issue and can’t find replacement.
Good job. In conclusion, I understand that it is not advisable to buy a projector with a color wheel, especially if it is a BenQ.
It seems that the LG models have better construction, materials and sealing, in fact they weigh twice as much, as the HU810. The HU710 doesn't even have a color wheel as it switches the LEDs.
Color wheels are fine. Problem with LEDs is that they are not bright enough. They also fail even though they are supposed to be 20,000+ hours.
Keep in mind this is literally the cheapest 4K projector for sale. Comparing it to an HU710 isn't entirely fair. They are totally different build qualities. Its like comparing a Ford to a Mercedes. I have seen plenty of bad LG devices but LG is still a good comapny.
The main issue with all devices is lack of maintenance. Take care of it and it will last and not give you much trouble.
@@FixitFrank I think it's better to avoid moving parts like the color wheel. Maybe the new BenQ HT4550 with a 4 LED light engine with green channel boost , 3200 lumens and 0.65" DMD might interest me, since the HU710's ventilation system doesn't allow me to install it in the bookstore, although its interior design is excellent. Search for "The ultimate spannende TearDown! LG AU/HU810P".
Hi, I just had the color wheel shatter and then the picture was like greenish . Turned it off and ordered a new one . Got it in place and all back together and hit power . Light turns green , but nothing comes on ? Then after like 10 seconds power light goes back to red like it’s in standby. Does this mean the lamp blew as well ? Or is something else wrong ?
is the lamp cover on? Did you test it before putting the top on so you can see that the new wheel is spinning? Do the fans come on? What else have you checked? Its odd for a color wheel to shatter and still have a picture. Usually they shut right down. I don't know exactly what you did, so its tough to say what is wrong. I would go back over your work. Make sure everything is plugged in, bypass the door switch and run it without the top before you close it up. that will almost always bring out murphy's law.
I have the tk850 model , was watching and hear a pop then loud steady noise continued. The the image stayed on but was a stead green hue . Once I replaced the wheel I hooked everything back up completely and when I hit power nothing comes on , no fans , no bulb , no noise of any power other than the light turning green for -0-15 seconds then red . ( lamp & temp indicators have no lights at all ) . I
@@FixitFrank update , it was the door switch , first go around the cable wasn’t plugged in . The second go around I didnt have lid on to activate it . 3rd time was the charm I had it on and cable in place . Thanks for the troubleshooting tips . Great work !!!
Awesome!! The only reason I suggest those things is because I have done them numerous times myself. Fix one thing, forget the other, go back, fix that, forget something else. etc. I've gotten better at remembering those things but I never take it for granted. I'm one wrong movement away from making a mistake. I never forget that :)
Are two discs printed in the HT3550I TK850 projector are the same?
I'm sorry I don't understand. Which printed disks?
So my color wheel burst. It was a BenQ manufacture refurbished unit. It seemed great, and just past the 1 year warranty, the color wheel exploded. It wasn't super hot, there wasn't much dust inside the unit, and I've never dropped it or anything. I was pretty peeved, but ordered one from BenQ directly for like, $70. Got around to the repair today (this video is AMAZING), but I have a huge problem. That cable at 21:05 that was a bit burnt for you? Mine was completely crispy. At barely a touch, the plastic connector/header piece completely crumbled. I can't find that specific cable on eBay or anything, and the size of that header doesn't quite match any other piece of electronics I have, what are my options? Is that cable the same as any other, more popular cable that I might be able to order easier? Or will I have to go through BenQ directly for that?
Okay, so going further in the video, is that just the one part of the IR cable? So... can I run it without this cable? Not having the remote sucks, but I really don't feel like paying an arm and a leg and waiting for weeks for the cable to come in for something I don't even really use that much.
Oh no..That sucks. You do need that cable. It is for infrared but its the color wheel sensors infrared signal that its sensing. I would just hard solder it to the board and add shrink tubing or kapton tape over the burned wires. If you want to find a replacement, you can try the folks I use. They have access to an e-recycler who ends up with a lot of these sort of parts.
gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is their contact info. Let them know I referred you if you go that route.
He didn't have the part, but I got it from BenQ direct for cheap. The new cable works fine, but now I have a new problem - there's a horrendously loud rattling/rumbling sound. It's none of the fans, and it seems to be coming from around where the lenses are. I see that the color wheel is not spinning. Is there a motor or something that spins the color wheel that.. Just not spinning, or it's spinning freely or something, causing the rumbling?
Sorry, color wheel IS spinning. I've taken everything apart and put it back together, reseating everything, and still it persists, just a blaringly loud whirring sound that's definitely coming from the color wheel, or the housing there.
Not sure if you've fixed this issue yet but mine suddenly developed the same sound that you seem to have. I opened up the unit using Franks awesome video and a piece of tape had come loose and was touching one of the fans, causing the noise issue. I cut the tape and then the sound went away!! Worth a look@@minkiz888
Happy Christmas Frank
Thank you Pino, Happy Christmas to you too!
Frank, Christmas isn't for another two days. Interesting to see inside one of these. I'm considering the TK850 variant sometime down the road as an upgrade. Kinda interesting (and annoying) that the colorwheel is stuck inside the entire optic assembly like that. Also do you know who the OEM is? That LF logo was stamped all over but I'm not sure who that is. In any case, Happy Holidays to you!
Merry Christmas buddy! Im not actually sure. LF could be the board house that made the PCBs. I still think these are Delta possibly or some other sub set of Qizda like Lextar?
@@FixitFrank I had a BenQ MS524AE that the lamp connector fried (The SAME style connector as this PJ has). I didn't know about you at the time, but that wasn't the only issue it had haha. Was honestly a strange little projector. I still have the DMD board, but all the boards had LF and askpcb printed all over it.
Hallo, super video!
Habe mit dem W2700 auch ein Problem nämlich der DCI-P3 Filter steckt fest - kommt nicht mehr aus dem Lichtkanal heraus.
Kann man das Teil reparieren oder muss da ein neues eingebaut sein.
Also elektrisch geht man kann leichter Klick hören.
Habe den auch Mal rausbekommen aber da muss der Beamer schon sehr lange mit Normale Lampe Einstellungen laufen.
Wo kann ich den Ersatz Cinema Filter bestellen?
VG....
New subscriber here! This is great! I have the exact projector which i use daily. 3 white dots or dead pixels showed up. Is this due to the color wheel? Should i replace it?
Hello! Thank you! Your symptom sound like a bad DMD. The color wheel is probably okay.
@@FixitFrank Is that something i can order and replace myself?
Definitely. Take a look at my DMD replacement videos to get an idea of what is involved. It's in the harder side but definitely doable.
How do you get to the chip on this model?
Hey frank great video I just took my projector apart it's super dirty my color wheel broke I hear a loud noise though it was a dirty fan so Unplugged it I just open it up it super dusty and found a pieces of the the color wheel missing but before it broke I also had one small pixies loss on the screen can I send to you for fixing or were can I get the parts ?
Hello! you would need a DMD and a color wheel(and it sounds like it needed a cleaning). You can get both of those from the supplier I use. Time electronics. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is their email. Let them know I referred you and they can help you out. If you get stuck, you can send it to me(if you are in the USA) but I am kind of jammed up work wise for at least the next 2-3 weeks.
@@FixitFrank I see thank you frank yes I am in the USA I'm in California I'm going to get the parts first I never done a repair like this but I'm going to try I will let you know if I get stuck I'm willing to send it to you.
I've always been kind of interested what the Wide Color Gamut filter looks like in these units, I know some of the older Epsons had a filter that would mount to the front to help give wider color range, it was very similar to an FL Day filter. Ever see that while repairing one of these or a similar DLP unit?
Not in a DLP no, but that doesn't mean it never happened. Some of the older higher end projectors had all sorts of optical magic going on. My understanding is that by using more colors in the color wheel, they obtain the same or similar affect. Don't quote me on that though. I just repair these. I am far from a projector design engineer.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the response! I picked up a Vivitek HK2288 used which already has really good color with a RGBRGB color wheel but is a little weak for HDR I do use MadVR to help with this though.
I was actually able to expand the color gamut by using a Hoya Starscape filter, this may be similar to what they use in projectors for wide gamut mode.
I feel like this projector is a bit underrated, the contrast is almost unheard of for 4k DLP (I measured around 2000:1, versus 600:1 for the HT3550), it's not far off from an older high end 1080p without iris (certain Runco or Sim2 models, some definitely exceed this significantly though).
I also have a 6050UB and the HK2288 is not as bright or the same level of contrast (I measure up to 4:000-10:000:1 depending on iris settings) but the sharpness is definitely a step up. Colors are actually pretty close. I prefer the 6050UB for movies but the HK2288 is actually better for games due to the extra resolution, the 6050UB cost me about 5x as much though.
Man ive watched half your videos already. Youre amazing! I just pick this same projector up used and the guy scammed me. Said it worked fine when i got home half the screen had white lines throught it. Was reading around a lot some said it was DMD board of the left side i guess this has 2. Others said it could just be the connections of the side that needed to be tighter. Any idea ? I Know this is a old video and if you respond id be delighted! Ive worked on plenty electronics so if its the DMD i dont mind changing it myself. But dont want to order of if thats not the issue and i could just check the connectors ya know. Keep up the sweet videos and thanks for the great content!
Actually cleaning the connections sensors worked! No more lines on the left. Last thing to do is align the lenses as i have a corner in the bottom left that is out of focus. Watched a few and seen how you align them. But still scared to pop the lens out lol
@@treyk4505 Thank you and Nice job!
Its probably not the lenses. I would leave them alone. Instead make sure the projector is parallel with the screen. At the worst it's the DMD not sitting flat maybe. Definitely not lenses though. They will not cause a corner to be out of focus. If your zoom is all the way out, that might be why. There is a some acceptable variance in focus on the consumer models. If you zoom in slightly and it clears up, then thats just "how it is". I would not take the main lens apart for any reason. It will be a nightmare to put back together and never work right again. Another possibility is the light tunnel shifted and its not getting enough light in the corner and comes across as out of focus. A few thing to keep in mind and good luck!
@@FixitFrankAppreciate the comment majorly! And I think it’s definitely the light tunnel. I watched your other videos and noticed how you use the 2 screws. It’s certainly not the lens so going to try and see if I can can find those screws on the chassis while keeping the power of the unit on! You rock in so many ways ! 💪🏽
why do color wheels break to begin with?? is there anything that can be done to prevent such failure?
I've seen a few common failures. A few are preventable in my opinion.
1. Dust build up causes the aluminum hub to expand and contract. Over the months that can cause the glue to fail and the centrifugal force makes the segments fly out. That's preventable with routine cleaning.
2. Burning the segments with lamp assemlies using the wrong UV/IR filter lenses. They dump heat into the wheel causing the same thing as #1.
3. Age. Most wheels use what I believe is an oil bronze bushing. Those will eventually wear out. That takes a while though. I see it in projectors that are more than 5-6 years old. No way to prevent this. Within reason. Ball bearings are a possibility and I have seen color wheels use them but they can fail too with age.
Most manufacturers recommend color wheel replacement in the service manual. High end projectors(digital projection 6800 I have upcoming) have color wheel modules that are field replaceable.
Maintenance is the best way to get the most life but there is no real way to keep one from never failing, at least not cost effectively.
I've found that keeping the dust down may help extend the life, I've always kept an air purifier in the same room and vacuum regularly. My older Sharp DT-500 projector saw probably 8000 hours over ~8 years or so and the color wheel never failed. I did clean the color wheel once and there was a bit of buildup on it. No issues on my Vivitek 1186 either, has several thousand hours on it as well, I checked the color wheel recently and there is zero buildup.
Sorry to pull you up Frank, but there is NO such thing as a native 4k dmd, unless it's a commercial cinema, that th3550 uses pixel shifting 4 times via a .47 inch 1080p chip...
I know. You'll see it was already mentioned a while ago. I was reading the projector central listing and they list the DMD as a 4k which is incorrect. For my purpose it doesn't really matter though. Doesn't change the repair
@@FixitFrank correct, LOVE watching your repairs, especially now that I'm considering a ht3550, or as it is sold here in Australia, the w2700...👍👍
never worry about pulling me up(learned a new term). I am not an expert! I am still learning myself. I just happen to sound more confident than maybe I should be ;)
Just purchased the same projector after seeing your video it has a broken colour wheel plus iam going to fit a new bulb..bargain £65..parts ordered wish me luck lol
Hi Frank how did you get into the service menu please..you are to fast for me lol watched it 5 times I still miss it..just waiting for parts.thanks justin
Press menu, then press Source and Enter at the same time. Then the boxes should appear.
I have a unique problem with my projector and I hope you can help. I have Optoma HD143X projector and the brightness and color of the projector seems below par for the first 4 to 5hrs of use (still usable). After that, it suddenly turns bright, vivid and sharp (just like how it should be), but I'm unable to understand why it takes a few hours for this to happen. This is very random with no pattern, sometimes it takes 6hrs or at times I don't see the vivid colors and brightness at all. I changed the HDMI cable and also tried connecting to a laptop and that didn't help. I'm guessing the issue might be with the lamp (lamp hours less than 35% used) or color wheel? Or just dust? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My Ht3550 just had a fan die on me, about to do a swap. Do you happen to remember the sizes of the fans? Looking to put in three better quality fans but cannot seem to find any specs online for the fans. Great video though seems to be a lack of sources for the HT3550s.
Thank you! I like to stick with the OEM fans. The CFM, reporting/monitoring are pretty critical to match. Especially for the cost. You want to buy the same model ADDA (or Sunon) fans or you stand to get lots of fan errors. These throttle the fans depending on load and if anything varies too far from what it is expecting, it will shut down and throw the temp error. Plus the blower fan is only that specific blower. Others of the same spec wont match the duct to the lamp assembly.
All that said, if you lookup the data sheets for the part #s listed on the fan stickers, you will get the specs. If you can match them with better qualify fans without changing the speed/cfm/current draw/reporting method, then you might be able to upgrade them.
@@FixitFrank Thanks so much for the reply!
@FixitFrank So I got brand new OEM fans, got an extra because figured I might as well switch a dirty one. Now both the fans I switched are not spinning, but my fan error is gone. The projector boots and runs fine now, but I worry about the heat with two fans running. The exhaust temp is around 120 F.
Any idea what could be causing the two fans not to run?
Hi,great video ,,,how do you get the parts for the benq ht3550,,,or if there's a parts diagram . Thanks
Hi Luis! I mostly use a company in China called Time Electronics. They ship everywhere and take paypal. Their sales rep is fantastic. It kind of depends on the part though. I have not found a service manual for the ht3550 yet myself. Those are increasingly harder to find. What kind of problem are you having?
@FixitFrank ,,i have the same projector, since 2019, it's great,,,but since watching your video,I'll like to be a little ready in case i have any issues,,,,,1 more question,, i will need to open projector to be able to keep those areas free of dust?,,thanks for reply.
You should be okay for a little while. For now, you can use a vacuum cleaner and use it to suck any dust out of the vents. A dry paint brush works well to loosen the dust up. I would not use compressed air due to pushing dust into the optics.
Some dust is inevitable, but if you limit or slow down the build up, the projector should run problem free. Next time you replace the lamp assembly, vacuum out the inside where the housing goes. Be sure to use the brush to poke inside the hole of the blower fan and knock that dust free. If you do this occasionally( one a year is enough, 4 times a year is best ) the projector should not have any big problems. The color wheel might wear out and of course bulbs, but nothing else should be a problem.
@@FixitFrank Thank you.
I was wondering if you can worn on my benq projector
I am not setup for repairs at the moment. I'm moving to a new shop. Shooting for August to be back up and running.
I was just looking for a disassembly video of this projector to get an idea of what it would take to replace the fans with quieter ones and only 16 hours ago this gets uploaded! Thanks a lot for the detailed video! What are your thoughts about replacing the fans with for example the Noctua NF-A9 PWM, would it be even possible or worth it? Btw, I took a look through the grill in mine and the fan is indeed blowing into the projector, the way you already thought it should be facing.
Thanks for confirming the fan direction. I was pretty sure after the fact but now I feel way better about it.
Unfortunately I have been down the Noctua rabbit hole and they just won't work. The problem is that they move less air per minute, and their status wire reports the RPMs differently. The way Noctua's run quiet is that they spin a little slower(along with the blade design). The lower RPM will trip the fan error warning and it won't cool well enough.
Your best bet for quieting a projector is to look into building a Hush Box. Those you can put Noctua fans into and that will preserve the projector with its proper parts. There are tons of DIY hush box options. I'd look into that personally.
@@FixitFrank @FixitFrank Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't realize hush boxes are a thing. I checked the specs of the Noctua and compared it to the Sunon that's used in this projector. The Noctua actually has a higher airflow (78,9 vs 67 m3/h) with less noise (22,8 vs 28 dB(A)). The RPM's are slightly lower (2000 vs 2400) but the main problem seems to be the status wire indeed, the Sunon just reports whether the fan is running or not (active low) where the Noctua actually reports the frequency using a pulsing signal. It should be possible to convert the pulse signal to an on/off signal (if pulses are detected output low) using a simple circuit or just tie the status to ground to bypass the check. Anyway, after seeing your video I realized the main noise producer is probably the radial fan instead of the case fans. I couldn't find any specs after googling the partnumber I pulled from your video which makes it difficult to find a possible replacement. So for now I'll definitely start looking into building a hush box. Happy holidays!
@@EmielHarmsen have you found any solution for that noise? what exactly is the most noise producer? thanks!
Any progress in your project to get a silent benq? I'm thinking about replacing the radial fan next to the lamp.
I had a 3550 I sold it for a epson 4010 because the benq would break around every 6 months well this one would so much troulbe it was a big let down benq kept sending me a different projector evey 6 months on the last one the DMD went out I wish they would put in a filter becuase it was allways getting dirty
is it possible it was dropped while running?
You never know! I didn't notice any physical damage to the outside of the case so I suspect its the usual thermal expansion/contraction of the color wheel that caused the glue to finally break. But a drop could definitely damage things like this.
I have found benq is the worst projector company I paid $1700 for a brand new tk850 the DMD chip started getting white pixels everywhere they fixed it for free 4 months later happened again so they fixed it 6 months later yet again more white dots everywhere so they ended up sending me a refurb unit and 6 months later bulb fan died they fixed it 8 months later color wheel exploded glass everywhere inside I could hear it sloshing around contacted them they said they would send me another unit and I was happy next day they said they made a mistake and the original warranty was no longer valid and basically told me to kick rocks. 10-21-2023 I just went on Amazon and purchased an Optoma UHD55 for $999 and it’s a better projector than the TK850 for $700 cheaper. I will never buy a benq product again I may in the future send the tk850 in for repair and just sell it after I get it back.
I have heard that but i will warn you optoma is almost worse. i wont even work on the uhd units anymore. They tend to fail right out of warranty. their uhz(laser) stuff seems okay but both Benq and optoma have some manufacturing issues with their entry and step passed entry level projectors.
Also the symptoms you are describing(exploding lamp) and the dmd are usually heat related. make sure you have more than enough airflow near the projector. if its up high and in a pocket it can cook itself enough to cause these problems but not warn you of overheating. I do suspect you got some lemons from benq but if you have temp problems where the projector goes, any brand or model will have issues. also, I just subbed to your channel, you're almost at 1K! best of luck man!
Those have a beep when the logo pops up when you power it up
where can I buy a color wheel for a benq tk850?
You can get it from BenQ directly, or eBay is perfectly fine. The main thing is to make sure the color order is correct and the little index mark sticker is in the right spot. There is no real difference between OEM and aftermarket color wheels in my experience. I use a company in China (time electronics). They ship DHL and take paypal. Their contact info is gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com
@@FixitFrank Thank you so much! I really appreciate your fast response.
So if I have a benqtk850i and I and it to you youll repair it?
If you get jammed up we can talk. I'm actually in process of moving locations(which is why videos are not out).
Oh wow I didn’t even see are you still doing this ? What’s your contact ? I have my projector all apart I’m just trying to confirm which color wheel to buy from your guy. If it doesn’t work I’m happy to send it to you
I wont be setup until August at some point. I dont have an exact date yet.
Where can I buy a color wheel for a tk850I helpppp
Try my friends at Time electronics. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com
Hey is it okay if it’s a 6 segment vs a 4segment like it says on my projectors table of contents for a tk850I ?
Bc that email you gave me they only gave 6 segments and it specifically says RGBW 4 segment
Ok second surgery and it seems like nothing boots up at all no fans nothing
Okay actually my tk850i unless you put it all back together is not going to show anything . Now it’s on making a little of noise but no picture
If I look into it I can see the ps5 in there maybe the mirrors are off ?
could be, but it might be a defective lamp as well.
Ok I finally got it to display but now it’s just dark green very dark not bright like how it used to be a the shade is green can’t project far
The lamp inside looks super bright white You think is the color wheel ? I looked everywhere for the color wheel and tried to find the closest match . Everything is green tint