Went for victron in the end, yes, a little more, but less bad reviews than the others and a much longer warranty. The Bluetooth access was an extra plus.
I've just lately bought and installed the 60amp Renogy after my 60amp sterling b2b charger packed in , according to my victron shunt I am getting 59amps from it so well happy , as the most I ever seen out of my sterling 60 amp b2b charger was 45 amps .
Glad you mentioned combined controllers. In Australia we have a big brand Redarc that has combined with solar but if either are not working you are just left with a single very expensive control solar or DCDC. I have split my set up.
@@offgrid_power no I don't. I have a Renogy 20a DCDC to my 100a LiFePO4 and Victron MPPT for my Solar. Just upgraded to LiFePO4 and this is my first DCDC. I was running for many years a Traxide USI160 dual battery controller with the Victron.
This is actually one area no one seems to be talking about. Victron DC-DC/AC chargers lack active cooling. They get really hot, reducing efficiency and I'd assume lifestyle. This is the reason I stick with victron.
I am looking for installation to run 12/24v fridge 247 in my suv. If i get this to charge lifepo4 that's in my trunk do i need anything to have pure sine wave for dc or can i just install 12v/24v plug and context fridge to it
You do need the D+ signal on the Renolgy but you failed to mention the CL (current limiting) feature on the Renolgy. This allows you to cut the output to 30 amps to put less strain on the alternator and get better fuel economy. I have the D+ and CL ports wired to same fuse that only gets power when the ignition is on.and a three way toggle switch with off/60/30. It's mounted on my dash and I can select the setting I need while driving. For example, if I need extra power from the engine while driving in the mountains I can turn it off. Or if I only need it to run my refrigerator I can set it for 30 amps. And if I need a full charge I can use 60 amps. I think this system is much easier to use than fooling with settings on my smart phone while driving.
Very good idea! So when the three way toggle switch turned to CL, then the D+ is not connected right? Is it still working without the D+ connection, so when only the CL is connected?
@@sadikk4663 No. The D+ always needs current. When D+ and CL are both receiving current the output is reduced from 60 amps to 30 amps. When only D+ is getting current, the output is 60 amps.
@@Roy-ij1wq Okay, but i don't understand how to connect the three way toggle switch. At first I wanted to install two seperate switches for D+ and CL, but now i try to figure out how to connect a three way toggle switch, because it's better.
@@sadikk4663 I used a HOKAAER seven pin DPDT switch available on Amazon for under $10. For some reason my reply won't send if I include the link but a full description is below and you can look at the included diagram. Each side of the switch controls one circuit. Jumper pins 2 & 5 (red) and connect to battery positive. Connect pin 7 to ground. Jumper 3 & 4 for D+. This will supply power to D+ when the switch is toggled in either direction. Connect CL to pin 6 but do not jumper pins 3 and 6 as shown. HOKAAER Waterproof Rocker Switch Toggle On-Off-On 12V/20A 24V/10A 7Pin DPDT Blue LED Light, with Jumper Wires Set for Marine Boat Car Truck Trailer 4x4 Caravan RV SUV ATV UTV : Automotive
Very informative video. it doesn't quite help me with my issue right now and the lack of online help is making me doubt my electrical ideas for my van. maybe someone here can help? i'm wanting to make a 48v electrical system but can't find a DCDC charger that goes from 12v to 48v. do i need to install an additional 48v alternator in my van? is dcdc charging not a good idea with a 48v system? should i go down to 24v?
I want the votronic for the fact it can charge the batteries so fast, but can’t tell from google if it ships to the US? Is the rest of your system votronic also?
@@offgrid_power, would that new smart buck boost be better than the old 50A buck boost. I allready ordered the old one and meed to know if I rerurn it and wait for the new one. Apart from the price, wich one would be better? It doesn't matter that the old one has to be configured in a windows pc. Thx
How will the rest of our components (solar/the battery/ charge controller) know how to limit other current coming in while the DC charger is using the alternator's energy. Can't we overload the battery's charging capacity? I know the bms is more like a last resort as to not cause damage to the battery, correct?
What if your battery has a maximum charging amperage of 30 amps would a 60 amp DC to DC charger hurt that battery and if not would it even be of any benefit?
It's worth mentioning that the Renogy and Victron can be stacked to boost yhe input. I.e. 120A for the renogy of you use two. This is assuming you have sufficient alternator output.
There is not an Automotive Alternator made that can produce 120 amps at idle..It will burn up from heat.. As the vehicle is using 90 amps just to run it...As alternator ratings are based on 2500 rpm or higher. While moving. As the alternator is relying on the vehicle moving air across it to cool.. So go read more. As I seen some shady shit that caught fire.. All because of myths..Why RV build companies have started adding a second Alternator. Just for charging house batteries..
@@haldyer3145 You’re not reading the post right.. The Alternator has to be rated for that high amp output. At Idle.. There is not one made from the factory. You have to go outside and get one from a 3rd party made just for that purpose. And there not cheap. Some cost over $900.00 if it’s a smart alternator
Does my starter battery need to be lithium since my house batteries are? And does something like that 90amp vicrtronic need to have a second alternator or a larger factory alternator to run?
Really not comparing like with like (Victron 30A vs Votronic 50A). The Votronic 30A is £160. Also the dip switches aren't difficult. You look in the manual at what battery type you have and set them the way it says. Also worth mentioning you can get a nice optional LCD display for the Votronic (maybe for the others too), which tells you what's happening. The other way of doing the 'trickle' charging of the starter battery is the Votronic Duo Digital solar controllers. I think if I were doing a vehicle from scratch, without budget limitations, I'd go for the full Victron integrated setup. Their Bluetooth apps and central displays are very fancy. If just adding to an existing setup, or if you weren't fussed to have bluetooth info and the Victron like 'mission control', or you wanted quality but simpler display (only) based information, then Votronic for quality, or Renogy (or similar budget brand).
@@offgrid_power 7.6 kW of PV. 14 kW a battery. I went with battle born, because I’m not an electrician or expert. Did all the work myself except for the connection to my panel, which was over my head. The guy put in a little on off switch, that keeps you from turning on both, you can only use one or the other. Grid or off grid.
I find Victron so stupid for simply not allowing their battery sense temp data from being used to set low-temp cutoff for their “smart” dc-dc chargers, very much like they do for their mppt charge controllers. It’s a seamless feature-add (critical nonetheless for LFP batteries) with a simple firmware update! I don’t find Victron to be a well-thought out energy solution, bc they have way too many tiny components they demand top dollars for when they could’ve easily integrated the critical ones in just a few lines of products for optimal use! Such a wasteful business strategy that seems only concerned about volumes of sale and the bottom line than effectively equipping customers with compact solutions. For another example, they have temp sensors already builtin to their MPPT controllers, yet they require u buy a dedicated thermister (battery sense with needlessly redundant BT feature) to transmit temp data in order to set the low-temp cutoff! If the battery and MPPT are located in same vicinity (generally the case), it’s pointless not to use the MPPT internal temp sensor to set the cutoff! There’s absolutely no other defense than someone hellbent on counting beans rather than optimizing solutions! No good engineer would fall for that scam, so they oughtta fire their scumbag marketing execs making these dumb decisions!
Went for victron in the end, yes, a little more, but less bad reviews than the others and a much longer warranty. The Bluetooth access was an extra plus.
I've just lately bought and installed the 60amp Renogy after my 60amp sterling b2b charger packed in , according to my victron shunt I am getting 59amps from it so well happy , as the most I ever seen out of my sterling 60 amp b2b charger was 45 amps .
That's great! Glad it's working for you!
Glad you mentioned combined controllers. In Australia we have a big brand Redarc that has combined with solar but if either are not working you are just left with a single very expensive control solar or DCDC. I have split my set up.
Hi Nathan. Thanks for the info. Do you use the Redarc?
@@offgrid_power no I don't. I have a Renogy 20a DCDC to my 100a LiFePO4 and Victron MPPT for my Solar. Just upgraded to LiFePO4 and this is my first DCDC. I was running for many years a Traxide USI160 dual battery controller with the Victron.
As usual very informative from nigel Thanks.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Thing I like in the 20amp Renogy is the integrate fans vs the Victron passive heat sink.
This is actually one area no one seems to be talking about. Victron DC-DC/AC chargers lack active cooling. They get really hot, reducing efficiency and I'd assume lifestyle. This is the reason I stick with victron.
I am looking for installation to run 12/24v fridge 247 in my suv. If i get this to charge lifepo4 that's in my trunk do i need anything to have pure sine wave for dc or can i just install 12v/24v plug and context fridge to it
I have a 2011 Ford transit. In your opinion what would your best choice to charge 2 lead acid batteries?
You do need the D+ signal on the Renolgy but you failed to mention the CL (current limiting) feature on the Renolgy. This allows you to cut the output to 30 amps to put less strain on the alternator and get better fuel economy. I have the D+ and CL ports wired to same fuse that only gets power when the ignition is on.and a three way toggle switch with off/60/30. It's mounted on my dash and I can select the setting I need while driving. For example, if I need extra power from the engine while driving in the mountains I can turn it off. Or if I only need it to run my refrigerator I can set it for 30 amps. And if I need a full charge I can use 60 amps. I think this system is much easier to use than fooling with settings on my smart phone while driving.
That’s a good point! Sounds like you have a good set up there!
Very good idea! So when the three way toggle switch turned to CL, then the D+ is not connected right? Is it still working without the D+ connection, so when only the CL is connected?
@@sadikk4663 No. The D+ always needs current. When D+ and CL are both receiving current the output is reduced from 60 amps to 30 amps. When only D+ is getting current, the output is 60 amps.
@@Roy-ij1wq Okay, but i don't understand how to connect the three way toggle switch. At first I wanted to install two seperate switches for D+ and CL, but now i try to figure out how to connect a three way toggle switch, because it's better.
@@sadikk4663 I used a HOKAAER seven pin DPDT switch available on Amazon for under $10. For some reason my reply won't send if I include the link but a full description is below and you can look at the included diagram.
Each side of the switch controls one circuit. Jumper pins 2 & 5 (red) and connect to battery positive. Connect pin 7 to ground. Jumper 3 & 4 for D+. This will supply power to D+ when the switch is toggled in either direction. Connect CL to pin 6 but do not jumper pins 3 and 6 as shown.
HOKAAER Waterproof Rocker Switch Toggle On-Off-On 12V/20A 24V/10A 7Pin DPDT Blue LED Light, with Jumper Wires Set for Marine Boat Car Truck Trailer 4x4 Caravan RV SUV ATV UTV : Automotive
I decided in the end to go with the 40a Renogy.
Nice! Good choice!
Very informative video. it doesn't quite help me with my issue right now and the lack of online help is making me doubt my electrical ideas for my van. maybe someone here can help? i'm wanting to make a 48v electrical system but can't find a DCDC charger that goes from 12v to 48v. do i need to install an additional 48v alternator in my van? is dcdc charging not a good idea with a 48v system? should i go down to 24v?
I want the votronic for the fact it can charge the batteries so fast, but can’t tell from google if it ships to the US? Is the rest of your system votronic also?
No, we use Victron mostly. Have you seen the new Victron DC-DC?
@@offgrid_power is it the smart buck boost one that’s supposed to come out in a couple weeks? Or a different one?
@@offgrid_power, would that new smart buck boost be better than the old 50A buck boost. I allready ordered the old one and meed to know if I rerurn it and wait for the new one. Apart from the price, wich one would be better? It doesn't matter that the old one has to be configured in a windows pc.
Thx
How will the rest of our components (solar/the battery/ charge controller) know how to limit other current coming in while the DC charger is using the alternator's energy. Can't we overload the battery's charging capacity? I know the bms is more like a last resort as to not cause damage to the battery, correct?
What if your battery has a maximum charging amperage of 30 amps would a 60 amp DC to DC charger hurt that battery and if not would it even be of any benefit?
It's worth mentioning that the Renogy and Victron can be stacked to boost yhe input. I.e. 120A for the renogy of you use two. This is assuming you have sufficient alternator output.
That’s a great suggestion!! 👏🏼😊
There is not an Automotive Alternator made that can produce 120 amps at idle..It will burn up from heat.. As the vehicle is using 90 amps just to run it...As alternator ratings are based on 2500 rpm or higher. While moving. As the alternator is relying on the vehicle moving air across it to cool..
So go read more. As I seen some shady shit that caught fire.. All because of myths..Why RV build companies have started adding a second Alternator. Just for charging house batteries..
@@WizzRacing true...I tried finding one... Best I found by power bastards is an alternators that can do 120+ amps at 1200 RPM...
@@WizzRacingif it’s important to have that high amp output then in most instances a secondary alternator can be added. Yes, it’s been done.
@@haldyer3145 You’re not reading the post right.. The Alternator has to be rated for that high amp output. At Idle.. There is not one made from the factory. You have to go outside and get one from a 3rd party made just for that purpose.
And there not cheap. Some cost over $900.00 if it’s a smart alternator
Did you not consider sterling power?
Does my starter battery need to be lithium since my house batteries are? And does something like that 90amp vicrtronic need to have a second alternator or a larger factory alternator to run?
Really not comparing like with like (Victron 30A vs Votronic 50A). The Votronic 30A is £160. Also the dip switches aren't difficult. You look in the manual at what battery type you have and set them the way it says.
Also worth mentioning you can get a nice optional LCD display for the Votronic (maybe for the others too), which tells you what's happening.
The other way of doing the 'trickle' charging of the starter battery is the Votronic Duo Digital solar controllers.
I think if I were doing a vehicle from scratch, without budget limitations, I'd go for the full Victron integrated setup. Their Bluetooth apps and central displays are very fancy.
If just adding to an existing setup, or if you weren't fussed to have bluetooth info and the Victron like 'mission control', or you wanted quality but simpler display (only) based information, then Votronic for quality, or Renogy (or similar budget brand).
Excellent Info Thanks
Victron! 🤙
They’re great! 🙂
@@offgrid_power
I am using Victron for my offgrid house. It’s wonderful. I’m using four Victron charge controllers and one Victron inverter.
Nice! That sounds like a great set up!
@@offgrid_power
7.6 kW of PV. 14 kW a battery. I went with battle born, because I’m not an electrician or expert. Did all the work myself except for the connection to my panel, which was over my head. The guy put in a little on off switch, that keeps you from turning on both, you can only use one or the other. Grid or off grid.
I find Victron so stupid for simply not allowing their battery sense temp data from being used to set low-temp cutoff for their “smart” dc-dc chargers, very much like they do for their mppt charge controllers. It’s a seamless feature-add (critical nonetheless for LFP batteries) with a simple firmware update! I don’t find Victron to be a well-thought out energy solution, bc they have way too many tiny components they demand top dollars for when they could’ve easily integrated the critical ones in just a few lines of products for optimal use! Such a wasteful business strategy that seems only concerned about volumes of sale and the bottom line than effectively equipping customers with compact solutions. For another example, they have temp sensors already builtin to their MPPT controllers, yet they require u buy a dedicated thermister (battery sense with needlessly redundant BT feature) to transmit temp data in order to set the low-temp cutoff! If the battery and MPPT are located in same vicinity (generally the case), it’s pointless not to use the MPPT internal temp sensor to set the cutoff! There’s absolutely no other defense than someone hellbent on counting beans rather than optimizing solutions! No good engineer would fall for that scam, so they oughtta fire their scumbag marketing execs making these dumb decisions!
Don't waste your money on renogy it's garbage my 2nd one in 2 yrs victron all the way