you sir. have definitely contributed a lot to the remote turbo world. seriously some of these tips are paramount in building a successful remote mount system. thank you. wonderful explanation on how and why!
I'm old schooler and new to turbo setups...but diving head first...Quick questions,1) you said you "mounted wastegate on Intake manifold Pipe" on the bottom side...So what are you plugging into the Intake Manifold near Carb? The vacuum hose.? And also with more boost in this situation/& positioning of wastegste for "instant boost" can high boost cause any issues? I might be wrong in all I have said...but as I said prior,..new to Turbo as well as rear mount setup..(which I plan to do in my 99 xtreme inside of bed possibly., she's really clean and don't want to cut her up too bad and then build something bigger later with giant holes all over. GREAT VIDS..Thanks so much
Very nice set up mate. You can chuck a temp prob into the intake before and after the intercooler by simply sliding it up into the silicon joiners than clamping them back down. Should give you an indication of how much heat the intercooler is actually removing. Another thing to look into is intercooler pressure drop. Plumbing in a boost gauge before and after the intercooler you can measure the pressure drop between both reading. Anything over 2psi drop means it isn't efficient. I've generally taken the old approach to intercoolers, hold it up to the light and look through the hole if you can't see a good amount of light shining through don't use it. Love the welds by the way, they look as good as mine
Wade Munyard Thanks mate, Its rated too 800hp , so they say, it has reasonable tubes in it but who knows what 800 hp holes look like lol..i have felt the difference in heat after a run on intercooler just by feeling each side its unbelievable the difference in temperature ,Thats griffs way of checking temps very hands on lol..glad too hear your welds are as good as mine...
In regards to the charge pipe, why do you have so many silicone connectors ? Would it be better having one whole pipe or 2 with one silicone connector. ? Thx. Great build.
Not sure if its for this same reason, but having lots of joiners is good, because if there's any excessive pressure, a hose will definitely jump off. If its one whole pipe and 2 joiners, you'd risk having the pipe break under pressure.
Hey mate great vid thanks heaps for that, very informative and interesting !!! DEFINATLY the same colour inside and gloss black or maybe powder coated gloss black roll cage and if available maybe the seat belts in a colour close to the outside !! What do you think it's your car !! Seeya Rob
Hey I would like to know if u are running a single Turbo system to both sides of your header and what type of setup did you use to run it to both side .Robert
Robert Correa I am running a single turbo, there tuned length headers,then twin 2.5 pipe into a single 3 inch to turbo. Hope that helps mate...cheers Griff..
Paul Cost The front brakes are a slight upgrade 330mm rotors with twin piston calipers, the rear are drums but have been drilled and high metal ratio lining on shoe, they seem to all work well for now, being the operative word...
Ha i see my HZ one tonner mild 308 standard brake system scares me, locks wheels up at a drop of a hat, so need to maintain a decent gap from modern vehicles with their ABS super braking systems especially in the wet. LOL
Paul Cost Funny you say that, i knew a bloke who had a hz ute 6 cylinder with drums allround,.Wasnt happy with the brakes, then goes and fits a brake booster !! after that has the worlds touchest brakes he was forever locking them up...
i know you said you've fixed your air filter issue but these filter wraps may help (other people who have no option but to run under the car) www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx?pkid=4092243&rw=1
Hi pal great job... just wundering? Why not just use a reservoir for the oil in the turbo and put a pot in the boot ? And jist resurculate the oil in turbo into oil cooler then in to resovoir thus starting again.....resovoir pot then turbo then oil cooler then back to reservoir if you get me. Save puting lines all way back self lubricsting almost.....like a power steering system or a clutch system style. Jist wundering lol putting it out there
I won't agree entirely over the matter of attaching the boost reference line to the charge pipe near the carby or manifold in my opinion if you run the waste gate reference line straight from the compressor housing to the waste gate you are going to get instant waste gate control. as long as you have the boost Guage at the manifold for you to read it will be fine same with an aftermarket ecu that has a built in map sensor like a megasquirt or haltech etc it doesn't really matter what the boost is at the turbo it matter what the boost level is at the manifold. running a long line to waste gate from the manifold increases your chance of getting a leak in that line which will cause waste gate to open later and make more boost and have obvious results. just my 2c as far as the welds on your exhaust check out the guys on sloppy mechanics facebook page blokes over there making good hp numbers with Flux core welds that look like cocky shit I wish more people in aus would learn how to not listen to big automotive high performance shops and give it a go themselves instead of spending 10k plus for 350 rwkw when it's not that hard to do a bit of research and do it at home with a few mates and a few tinny and use what they have to go and have some fun and make some respectable hp numbers all for the rear mount and all for the engine bay mount it's all up to preference love the vids keep it up
depends on what sort of electronic boost control solinoid 3 or 4 port and what type of waste gate single or 2 port either way if you plumbed everything up on the rear of the car like in the boot IMHO there would be less chance of tearing a waste gate line and over boosting the car instead of running a huge long waste gate line to the back of the car also not tested but I would think they may be a little boost difference from the back of the car and the front in the charge pipe and in the boost reference line from the solinoid all the way to the back of the car. why wouldn't I know how electronic boost controllers work I live and breath boost
Agree with the long lines being prone to damage etc. Just about the instant wastegate control you were referring to. As you would be aware the EBC references map and uses pressure from comp housing to regulate wastegate via the boost solenoid. IMO running an ebc could be beneficial for Griff as it has a few benefits that being can control the delivery of the boost as it ramps up, boost per gear, removal of long signal lines and the ability to crank the boost up or down at the press of a button within the limits of wastegate spring ,wastegate and engine capability.
you sir. have definitely contributed a lot to the remote turbo world. seriously
some of these tips are paramount in building a successful remote mount system. thank you. wonderful explanation on how and why!
I'm old schooler and new to turbo setups...but diving head first...Quick questions,1) you said you "mounted wastegate on Intake manifold Pipe" on the bottom side...So what are you plugging into the Intake Manifold near Carb? The vacuum hose.? And also with more boost in this situation/& positioning of wastegste for "instant boost" can high boost cause any issues? I might be wrong in all I have said...but as I said prior,..new to Turbo as well as rear mount setup..(which I plan to do in my 99 xtreme inside of bed possibly., she's really clean and don't want to cut her up too bad and then build something bigger later with giant holes all over. GREAT VIDS..Thanks so much
Thank you for showing the turbo! It looks great!
no worries
in-case no ones told you lately. your the man! thanks for making my life easier!
CAN DO A VID ON CARBY AND WHY I REALLY LIKE IT PLUS FUEL SYSTEM...
Very nice set up mate. You can chuck a temp prob into the intake before and after the intercooler by simply sliding it up into the silicon joiners than clamping them back down. Should give you an indication of how much heat the intercooler is actually removing. Another thing to look into is intercooler pressure drop. Plumbing in a boost gauge before and after the intercooler you can measure the pressure drop between both reading. Anything over 2psi drop means it isn't efficient. I've generally taken the old approach to intercoolers, hold it up to the light and look through the hole if you can't see a good amount of light shining through don't use it. Love the welds by the way, they look as good as mine
Wade Munyard Thanks mate, Its rated too 800hp , so they say, it has reasonable tubes in it but who knows what 800 hp holes look like lol..i have felt the difference in heat after a run on intercooler just by feeling each side its unbelievable the difference in temperature ,Thats griffs way of checking temps very hands on lol..glad too hear your welds are as good as mine...
Great videos Griff! Would love to see the fuel system video and what you did to the carby in particular. Cheers, Tim from Victoria
Tim Anna alright mate i think i will do one, i came up with some other little things to talk about cheers Tim
In regards to the charge pipe, why do you have so many silicone connectors ? Would it be better having one whole pipe or 2 with one silicone connector. ? Thx. Great build.
Not sure if its for this same reason, but having lots of joiners is good, because if there's any excessive pressure, a hose will definitely jump off. If its one whole pipe and 2 joiners, you'd risk having the pipe break under pressure.
Hey mate, awesome tips there. 👍🏻
What size exhaust are you running from the motor??
can you please do a video on your ignition setup and what timing you are running?
ImNotAnExpert excellent idea mate will add that too list thankyou....
Hey mate great vid thanks heaps for that, very informative and interesting !!! DEFINATLY the same colour inside and gloss black or maybe powder coated gloss black roll cage and if available maybe the seat belts in a colour close to the outside !! What do you think it's your car !! Seeya Rob
87xfute Your hearing me boss, thankyou...
Its your choice on the color, but most definitely a nice paint job will make a tremendous difference in the looks of the interior.
caduceus33 i think so too. thanks mate..
Hey I would like to know if u are running a single Turbo system to both sides of your header and what type of setup did you use to run it to both side .Robert
Robert Correa I am running a single turbo, there tuned length headers,then twin 2.5 pipe into a single 3 inch to turbo. Hope that helps mate...cheers Griff..
Interestingly notice you are running the stock H series brake setup including the rear drums, so with all yhat grunt how does it pull up ?
Paul Cost The front brakes are a slight upgrade 330mm rotors with twin piston calipers, the rear are drums but have been drilled and high metal ratio lining on shoe, they seem to all work well for now, being the operative word...
Ha i see my HZ one tonner mild 308 standard brake system scares me, locks wheels up at a drop of a hat, so need to maintain a decent gap from modern vehicles with their ABS super braking systems especially in the wet. LOL
Paul Cost Funny you say that, i knew a bloke who had a hz ute 6 cylinder with drums allround,.Wasnt happy with the brakes, then goes and fits a brake booster !! after that has the worlds touchest brakes he was forever locking them up...
I'm thinking you should do a test with and without the intercooler....You might save a few pounds and it would be a cool video! :)
RPM well i have just done the test....stay tuned
Awesome! Thanks Mate!!
hi mate , are you running 2.5 inch charge pipe from turbo to carb ?
Jeremy Paynter its 2.75, i couldn't work out if i wanted 2.5 or 3.0 so i settled in between...
i know you said you've fixed your air filter issue but these filter wraps may help (other people who have no option but to run under the car) www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx?pkid=4092243&rw=1
Arron Johnston just had a look, should of used the covers when i had filter off turbo., good tip mate..hope that helps someone else out...
Hi pal great job... just wundering? Why not just use a reservoir for the oil in the turbo and put a pot in the boot ? And jist resurculate the oil in turbo into oil cooler then in to resovoir thus starting again.....resovoir pot then turbo then oil cooler then back to reservoir if you get me. Save puting lines all way back self lubricsting almost.....like a power steering system or a clutch system style. Jist wundering lol putting it out there
I couldn't see it but does your turbo have an intake
Julio De La Mora air filter in boot is intake..
Griffs Rearmount Turbo. I see yeah just barely getting into turbo don't understand it completely but I'm getting the hang of it
Julio De La Mora we all have too start some were mate,you have picked the right channel too learn from....
thanks man I have a 4 cylinders are you think I should get a V8 to start
Julio De La Mora no a 4 cylinder is fine too turbo. Just use my channel as a learning process and reference to what you want to achieve.
I won't agree entirely over the matter of attaching the boost reference line to the charge pipe near the carby or manifold in my opinion if you run the waste gate reference line straight from the compressor housing to the waste gate you are going to get instant waste gate control. as long as you have the boost Guage at the manifold for you to read it will be fine same with an aftermarket ecu that has a built in map sensor like a megasquirt or haltech etc it doesn't really matter what the boost is at the turbo it matter what the boost level is at the manifold. running a long line to waste gate from the manifold increases your chance of getting a leak in that line which will cause waste gate to open later and make more boost and have obvious results.
just my 2c
as far as the welds on your exhaust check out the guys on sloppy mechanics facebook page blokes over there making good hp numbers with Flux core welds that look like cocky shit I wish more people in aus would learn how to not listen to big automotive high performance shops and give it a go themselves instead of spending 10k plus for 350 rwkw when it's not that hard to do a bit of research and do it at home with a few mates and a few tinny and use what they have to go and have some fun and make some respectable hp numbers
all for the rear mount and all for the engine bay mount it's all up to preference love the vids keep it up
cheers mate nice comment.
Griffs Rearmount Turbo. like I said just my 2c
Squid are you aware of how a electronic boost controller works...
depends on what sort of electronic boost control solinoid 3 or 4 port and what type of waste gate single or 2 port either way if you plumbed everything up on the rear of the car like in the boot IMHO there would be less chance of tearing a waste gate line and over boosting the car instead of running a huge long waste gate line to the back of the car
also not tested but I would think they may be a little boost difference from the back of the car and the front in the charge pipe and in the boost reference line from the solinoid all the way to the back of the car.
why wouldn't I know how electronic boost controllers work I live and breath boost
Agree with the long lines being prone to damage etc.
Just about the instant wastegate control you were referring to.
As you would be aware the EBC references map and uses pressure from comp housing to regulate wastegate via the boost solenoid.
IMO running an ebc could be beneficial for Griff as it has a few benefits that being can control the delivery of the boost as it ramps up, boost per gear, removal of long signal lines and the ability to crank the boost up or down at the press of a button within the limits of wastegate spring ,wastegate and engine capability.