Dude. you took my dull, tired, poor, my huddled masses of dull blades yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse abut to be thrown out and made them a new!!! (Some, no replacement blades!) Thank you.!
Wow! I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to sharpen your own blades. People like you make the world a better place by sharing what they know with others.Thank you for the informative video!
I feel so dumb for sending my blades out to sharpen. Takes 5 minutes to do yet takes a week to get them back lol. Thank you for posting this it'll definitely help our salon
It's great and economical to do them yourself, for sure. Please keep in mind that at some point you may need to get a professional to do it. Your job is to cut the hair, not worry too much about the sharpening :D
I have a cooker that has epilepsy and I have been grooming him for 8 years . Your video was a life saver I'm a 70's veteran and couldn't find a place to sharpen the blades so (we live very deep in the mountains of TN/NC so I bought a new trimmer every couple of cuts, if you saw my trim station you would laugh' I'm sure but it's cheaper to buy a new one every 4-5 months than to put my dog through the stress that has lead to him having an episode, all that to say GREAT JOB!! this old veteran is going to do just what you did in the video and can't wait to see the savings. Blessings and thank you so much.
Thanks so much. I have been getting inquiries from dog groomers, and was unsure whether I wanted to attempt this. You've taken the mystery out of it. Now I'll practice up on my personal clippers and might just say yes the next time one of these dog groomers calls.
If you do just a couple of these, the stones work fine. But if you find yourself doing more of these, you'll want to invest in a clipper blade machine. Good luck!
@@JendeIndustries I have a Remington hair trimmer. Please instruct me on disassembly of the blades and if there are any sprinks I have to worry about? Thank you.
Tom the red mark thats still on the comb towards the center is supposed be like that because the blades are hollow ground, flat grinding will work for about 2 minutes. About the only blades that are flat ground are sheep blades.
I look forward to further discussions about this too. I have a close friend that owns an aerospace machine shop down here in Florida. I've given him at least twenty different sets of blades from multiple different manufacturers new in the box and asked him to measure the flatness of each. So far we haven't found a single hollow ground blade from the factory. Not one. This hollow talk is a a scam to get you to buy the machines. I've been sharpening hundreds of blades for years on various flat plates and have not had a single issue.
@@bobbysixsevenw I don't do a ton of flat stone sharpening. I own a sharpening service and do most of my knife work with a belt system. Look up outdoors55 on here. He's amazing with some stones!
You can using diamonds on everything, but be careful, some of the diamond blocks can be very coarse. Go with a medium or fine and then see if you need to drop down a level.
I come from knife sharpening union, been long gone since lost interest in sharpening and sold all of my japanese kitchen knives (used to be a sushi chef, avid collector and sharpener with very purist attitude to hamaguri edges, and proper kasumi finishes) Well, I thought that whole Japanese single bevel thing was pretentious enough, but now I read all the comments from the hollow grind EXPERTS and it seems it is far worse.. Thank You for the content, need to dig in on this topic a bit more, might still put some of my stones to use.
Lol the clipper and salon shear blade sharpening arena is very competitive. The field is mixed with a bunch a really good ones and enough hacks to make stylists very wary of who sharpens their often $100-$1,000 pair of scissors. So while similar in potential investment loss, the only differences is that Japanese knife owners tend to sharpen their own knives - but they are both a cult thing and they often only know and trust one way without fully understanding what is going on. The thing about sharpening is that you should enjoy it, even if sometimes its a PITA. :D
So great video I'm wondering why you choose flat over hollow ground as most clippers apply pressure in the middle when connected and pulls the blades together flat which allows a more even wear. I know this is an age old discussion between sharpeners but I like to hear the thoughts on why people do it one way over another. Anyway thanks for the video.
The real reason is that I don't have the tapered disk grinders. I only get a handful of clipper blades to sharpen out of all the things that come through the shop, and this method works well enough.
Glad it worked for you! Clipper blades can be tricky sometimes, depending on if they line up at the tips or are offset in the comb. Using the marker really is a good indicator.
So why do they sell clipper blade sharpening machines for thousands of pounds/dollars, if all you have to do is run them over a flat stone ? I thought clipper blades should be hollow ground?
@@paulcampbell6316 Sharpening businesses are the ones that use those. Takes 5-10 mins on stones. 30 secs on a machine. Time is money. Not all are flat ground tho.
I had the same issue, but I sharpened a little bit more and now it seems better. Not amazing, but better. I use water stones, first flattened with a flattening stone, 800 grit.
I used to get some sandpaper and do the sides to remove the burrs. I say cautiously that in the end, the 2 faces of the blade are where the work gets done, not so much the "other side" of the edges. Ideally you would do both sides to perfection though. 😎
@@JendeIndustriesI am not a professional and own one poodle, but seems like a great idea for someone who lives on the road to make cash in different cities. Or groom at resorts!
@@theresa337 Yes, there is a pretty substantial and often highly competitive industry of mobile sharpening services. Having the machines is a must if you want to make it cost efficient and have it work over time. This video is more of a simple, home use approach. 🤠
I keep seeing these comments about hollow grind in some clipper blades but I haven't seen a hollow grind style sharpener yet or even how you're supposed to know if you have a hollow ground blade or flat. You would think that these hollow ground commenters would at least give some more details about what they're talking about instead of just telling everyone that you're not supposed to sharpen hollow ground blades this way. How about some info on hollow ground clipper blades and how to tell if your clipper uses them and how to sharpen them properly? 🤔
Excellent point, sir! The sharpening guys' industry standard way to sharpen hollow ground clipper blades is with a slightly conical flat hone. The taper in the plate creates a hollow grind that should match upon both pieces when it's done. These are not cheap machines, so if you don't have one you can usually get by with a flat grind for a while with some good technique, as this video shows. You open the door for more potential variation here, because different manufacturers seem to use different tapers/grinds on their blades. So there is some caveat to this method since it may be difficult to undo or create a certain grind to get both blades to line up well.
@@bodeine454 Yes, there are MANY videos on this subject with just as many approaches. It's actually a hotly debated topic. The pros insist only the machine works. I agree that it is probably the best long term option, but for short term maintenance, this works. Thanks again for watching. I hope you found some valuable info in it as you make your sharpening decisions!
BIG time ! A dude on one channel, who was apparently represent'n the sharpening "industry"🤪, actually wouldn't even answer basic questions about the convexity of the disk or RPM's nor even the grit FFS. I think its largely a scam built around some truth since it does seem to really be important for some scissors at least(I think). But I'd bet a few precious fingers that its mostly just about selling expensive machines & being the more "professional" sharpener. A commenter above even mentioned that a friend with a precision aerospace machine shop tested 20+ random bran new blade sets from various manufactures mind you & they ALL tested flat. 🤔 So, If that is indeed true, these circus acts could sure use a smack in the head 🤜🤡. & even worse yet, is the # of ppl that just heard it in a vid & are now experts in the matter(Dunning-Kruger in action), when in reality they're only helping to propagate BS by parroting it. Polly wanna hollow grind ? 🦜 Anyway, If there is a non-negligible amount of truth to it, its probably mostly regarding longevity, I'd think, which would surely be important to pros I suppose. All that said, NO question DIY(flat) "works" & the avg person's clippers are practically a dime per dozen anyway. But yes, this topic NEEDS closure. Can some engineers at clipper manufacturers please speak up already. If anyone agrees perhaps at least repost these Q's/points on a reddit forum or something.
Could you please provide the name of the manufacturer of the stones and where is the best online store to purchase them? Thank you for the well done instructional video 🎉
Happy birthday for work could you help me tell me how many sharpening stones you use to sharpen the blades and what number of the grain of the stones you are using my name is Leandro from Brazil
Interesting debate here on the Hollow vs. Flat ground blades. I called manufacturers and asked how the blades are sharpen at the factory. Andis wouldn't say, Geib said flat ground, Wahl said the top is hollow ground and the bottom is flat ground.
YEs, the flat grinds are "easier" to do with this method. Once you get the hollow grinds, there is much more variation of pitch. At that point you will want a machine with the diamond disk.
Are you familiar with the blades in a Flowbee hair cutting head. They are in oscillating plates that act as cutting blades. I'm trying to figure out how to sharpen them, but they are a bit different from the clipper blades you show here. I have some familiarity with sharpening grafting knife blades, but I see that reciprocating and oscillating blades are a different animal. Do you have knowledge of the Flowbee system and any suggestions for me that would help me figure this out?
Silicone is a lighter lubricant than 3 in 1 oil but I like it primarily because it is greaseless. Oils on the blade lube and protect from rust, but they also tend to act as a sponge for dirt and hair to buildup on. It's not a huge deal as long as the blades are kept lubed regularly. I like to oil before assemble to make sure I get all the parts covered, even if I wipe the excess down before assembly.
Yes, it seems I have been doing it wrong, as another commenter pointed out. There should be a slight hollow grind on the comb. I shall be getting a flat disk grinder as a result!
These small clippers have such thin metal. Opposed to an Andis #10. The risk to warping from friction and heat is high if using a something like hollow grind on Nebraska Blades.
To be fair, this method doesn't always work. Clipper blades are a little more tricky and by no means uniform from maker to maker. There are some specialist machines that even out the equation, but I don't do enough blades to warrant the purchase of the machine, although I want one. :)
With anything mechanical, I tend not to go too refined - usually not over 1K grit. The speed of the machine does the work, and too refined can cause heat buildup and the edges to damage more quickly.
I'm curious, do the blades develop a burr as you sharpen then lilke a knife does? Would a burr form between the tines of the blade that may hamper cutting?
Great Question! Ultimately, there is a burr, but it forms between the teeth. You could go in and deburr or sharpen the sides of the teeth, but that is way overkill and too time consuming, and really not worth it in general, IMO The idea is that the two surfaces of the blades do not have any space between them so that it severs the hair against the side walls of the teeth rather than crush the hair or run it over. So removing the ink is usually sufficient enough.
Excellent question! The sharpening process will (or should) remove any rust on the places that have contact with each other. Depending on the rest of the blade condition, you can use sandpaper, a scotch brite pad, or a buffing wheel. If there is serious damage or pitting, then the blades may be better off being replaced.
This is a great question, and a valid one. Bottom line, the convex machine is better and more consistent to be able to match up the 2 parts of the blades. There are different grinds to almost every brand of clipper, so using this machine will simply level out the playing field the first time, then if you service them in the future, its a quick touchup. However, you can use a flat surface for touching up several times before the mating of the blades goes off enough to impact the cutting.
@@JendeIndustries I’ve got one of those other stones that you use to get them even but it doesn’t really get a true surface for me. Not being adversarial, but i put 50 bucks into a nice stone to sharpen my blades (not based on this video though, no worries heheh), stone was fresh, but seemed to be removing metal unevenly. It did sharpen it a bit, just not as much as I’d like. I think I’m going to get some glass, glue to a 2x4, then use a light adhesive to glue some sandpaper to that. Vary the grit and such. Just off hand, do you know what the typical culprit is when you hear loud chattering from clippers? For some reason when i zero gapped i would get chattering / buzzing depending on how i held the buzzer in my hand
@@JP-vx2sr Making sure the back of the sandpaper and the glass is clean, tape it down, no adhesive on the back is going to end up as flat as doing that. Plus with adhesive, it's more of a pain to get the sandpaper off later to replace it. Chattering is typically due to the design of the clipper, and blades not sitting flush and sharp enough (have a bevel still on the cutting edge from wear) that the blade sits in a pressurized arm and then some space gets between the blades due to hair between them, and it flops up and back down till their hair is freed out. unfortunately not being in direct contact between the other blade plate, so isn't cutting well while that happens.
@@stinkycheese8048 I use a piece of 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick tempered glass a bit bigger than a full sheet of waterproof sandpaper . All I do is simply wet the glass and run the paper under the tap on both sides. The waster both locks the paper to the glass and additionally acts as a lubricant. I run up through the grits after each, I rinse the paper off for use on other things. Most importantly rinse the glass well to remove the larger grit swill from the previous grit of paper.
Smoother is better. The oil film will cut the friction. Sheep shearers are constantly oiling their shears and this should be a practice with any animal shear or ones intended for humans. I like the synthetic oils. They seem to lubricate much better.
Please visit the website jendeindustries.com and complete the checkout process. For further enquiries please contact support at orders@jendeindustries.com or live chat 💬
GREAT VIDEO; THE A.I. GODS SHOULD GIVE YOU MORE LIKES, AND SUBSCRIBERS. VERY INFORMATIVE. THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO. I DEFINITELY SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR RUclips CHANNEL.
I've accumulated quite a few more than what you see in the video :D I have an entire shelf in a rack dedicated to my personal stones I usually don't use. Glad you enjoyed the eye candy though!
@@CoYco-bu8wt Nah, Google translate does all the heavy lifting. I love that there is an international community that watches our videos! 🤩🤩 Nah, ang paghubad sa Google naghimo sa tanan nga bug-at nga pag-alsa. Ganahan ko nga adunay internasyonal nga komunidad nga nagtan-aw sa among mga video!
I won't use more than a 1,000 grit stone. However, I was recently informed about using a conical shaped grinder for the clippers in the long run. Stones will work once or twice, but it seems you want something that will hollow grind on less powerful clippers.
Yes, thank you! I appreciate you pointing it out! I've since been schooled in the purpose of the tapered flat disk. But if you see more wrong, please explain. Thanks!
@@JendeIndustries A tapered flat disk? Never see such a thing. How were clipper blades sharpened before these tapered disk? Seems they came into the business 10-12 years ago. Was everybody but Ed just morons?
🎉😂No No no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no, no, no. Oh, I don’t like it. No, no no no no no no no no no, no, I don’t like it. No, no no no no. No no, no, I don’t like no.
It is quite annoying to see someone so adamantly opposed to something without a more suitable alternative. And you don’t even state why you are opposed.
@@Oilfieldscout Lol, So what you are saying is that because I am not Ed, I cannot, and should not, therefore, even attempt to sharpen clipper blades? :D
I think you understand what a convex plate clipper sharpening machine is for now, so please remove this video for the misinformation being spread by it. You're costing people money and making your company look stupid.
ODG - Hollow grinding is just a method to reduce the actual surface area in contact between the comb and cutter... .a hollow ground comb or cutter at 220 grit would is far from a sharp surface in the knife sharpening world..the sparks seen on the sharpening machines = heat which weaken the metal (that is not a good thing in case you did not know) why do you think they use water cooling for lathes & CNC. Please educate why Flat sharpening does not work instead of saying its misinformation.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude. you took my dull, tired, poor, my huddled masses of dull blades yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse abut to be thrown out and made them a new!!! (Some, no replacement blades!) Thank you.!
Wow! I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to sharpen your own blades. People like you make the world a better place by sharing what they know with others.Thank you for the informative video!
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it!
I feel so dumb for sending my blades out to sharpen. Takes 5 minutes to do yet takes a week to get them back lol. Thank you for posting this it'll definitely help our salon
It's great and economical to do them yourself, for sure. Please keep in mind that at some point you may need to get a professional to do it. Your job is to cut the hair, not worry too much about the sharpening :D
I have a cooker that has epilepsy and I have been grooming him for 8 years . Your video was a life saver I'm a 70's veteran and couldn't find a place to sharpen the blades so (we live very deep in the mountains of TN/NC so I bought a new trimmer every couple of cuts, if you saw my trim station you would laugh' I'm sure but it's cheaper to buy a new one every 4-5 months than to put my dog through the stress that has lead to him having an episode, all that to say GREAT JOB!! this old veteran is going to do just what you did in the video and can't wait to see the savings. Blessings and thank you so much.
A really elegant exposition. You are a fine teacher.
Thanks so much. I have been getting inquiries from dog groomers, and was unsure whether I wanted to attempt this. You've taken the mystery out of it. Now I'll practice up on my personal clippers and might just say yes the next time one of these dog groomers calls.
If you do just a couple of these, the stones work fine. But if you find yourself doing more of these, you'll want to invest in a clipper blade machine. Good luck!
Omg, thank you! Cheap Amazon clipper, no replacement blades. Good as new blade!
Great video - Thanks for taking the time to make it - Cheers - Chris (UK)
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@JendeIndustries I have a Remington hair trimmer. Please instruct me on disassembly of the blades and if there are any sprinks I have to worry about? Thank you.
Watch out for 'dippage' at 5:20 !!! I like it: I think I'm going to steal your new word! Great video, by the way, thank you.
Glad I could help coin some new terms 😁👍
This video will help me sharpen my own blades. Thanks for the great tip.
Glad you found it helpful!
@@JendeIndustries ** I SHARPEN MY BELLY BUTTON!!**
@@JESUSCHRYSLER5512 Yeah, Baby, Yeah!!😎😎
@@JendeIndustries Are there any springs in the blade assembly that I have to worry about?
Tom the red mark thats still on the comb towards the center is supposed be like that because the blades are hollow ground, flat grinding will work for about 2 minutes.
About the only blades that are flat ground are sheep blades.
Hey Ward! Thanks for the info! I look forward to our discussions about this!
I look forward to further discussions about this too. I have a close friend that owns an aerospace machine shop down here in Florida. I've given him at least twenty different sets of blades from multiple different manufacturers new in the box and asked him to measure the flatness of each. So far we haven't found a single hollow ground blade from the factory. Not one. This hollow talk is a a scam to get you to buy the machines. I've been sharpening hundreds of blades for years on various flat plates and have not had a single issue.
@@bobbysixsevenw I don't do a ton of flat stone sharpening. I own a sharpening service and do most of my knife work with a belt system. Look up outdoors55 on here. He's amazing with some stones!
@@bobbysixsevenw see if Jende can help you out!
Thank you for the information but I have a question can you use a diamond sanding block for steel as well as ceramic blades ?
You can using diamonds on everything, but be careful, some of the diamond blocks can be very coarse. Go with a medium or fine and then see if you need to drop down a level.
I come from knife sharpening union, been long gone since lost interest in sharpening and sold all of my japanese kitchen knives (used to be a sushi chef, avid collector and sharpener with very purist attitude to hamaguri edges, and proper kasumi finishes) Well, I thought that whole Japanese single bevel thing was pretentious enough, but now I read all the comments from the hollow grind EXPERTS and it seems it is far worse.. Thank You for the content, need to dig in on this topic a bit more, might still put some of my stones to use.
Lol the clipper and salon shear blade sharpening arena is very competitive. The field is mixed with a bunch a really good ones and enough hacks to make stylists very wary of who sharpens their often $100-$1,000 pair of scissors. So while similar in potential investment loss, the only differences is that Japanese knife owners tend to sharpen their own knives - but they are both a cult thing and they often only know and trust one way without fully understanding what is going on. The thing about sharpening is that you should enjoy it, even if sometimes its a PITA. :D
So great video I'm wondering why you choose flat over hollow ground as most clippers apply pressure in the middle when connected and pulls the blades together flat which allows a more even wear. I know this is an age old discussion between sharpeners but I like to hear the thoughts on why people do it one way over another. Anyway thanks for the video.
The real reason is that I don't have the tapered disk grinders. I only get a handful of clipper blades to sharpen out of all the things that come through the shop, and this method works well enough.
This is not the correct way to sharpen a clipper blade. The comb is flat if it is adjustable and the cutter has a hollow grind.
The faces on the upper and lower blades are both clean.
However, how do I determine when they are sharp enough
to cut hair.
Excellent question! Most people generally have a bit of hair from the wife or wherever that can be used to see if the blades cut.
Tried that on my own a few days ago and now my clipper cuts hair like a friggin LAWN MOWER.
Glad it worked for you! Clipper blades can be tricky sometimes, depending on if they line up at the tips or are offset in the comb. Using the marker really is a good indicator.
So why do they sell clipper blade sharpening machines for thousands of pounds/dollars, if all you have to do is run them over a flat stone ? I thought clipper blades should be hollow ground?
@@paulcampbell6316 Sharpening businesses are the ones that use those. Takes 5-10 mins on stones. 30 secs on a machine. Time is money.
Not all are flat ground tho.
I had the same issue, but I sharpened a little bit more and now it seems better. Not amazing, but better. I use water stones, first flattened with a flattening stone, 800 grit.
That is wonderful. I thought it be some complicated machine for each tooth.
I used to get some sandpaper and do the sides to remove the burrs. I say cautiously that in the end, the 2 faces of the blade are where the work gets done, not so much the "other side" of the edges. Ideally you would do both sides to perfection though. 😎
@@JendeIndustriesI am not a professional and own one poodle, but seems like a great idea for someone who lives on the road to make cash in different cities. Or groom at resorts!
@@theresa337 Yes, there is a pretty substantial and often highly competitive industry of mobile sharpening services. Having the machines is a must if you want to make it cost efficient and have it work over time. This video is more of a simple, home use approach. 🤠
I keep seeing these comments about hollow grind in some clipper blades but I haven't seen a hollow grind style sharpener yet or even how you're supposed to know if you have a hollow ground blade or flat. You would think that these hollow ground commenters would at least give some more details about what they're talking about instead of just telling everyone that you're not supposed to sharpen hollow ground blades this way.
How about some info on hollow ground clipper blades and how to tell if your clipper uses them and how to sharpen them properly? 🤔
Excellent point, sir! The sharpening guys' industry standard way to sharpen hollow ground clipper blades is with a slightly conical flat hone. The taper in the plate creates a hollow grind that should match upon both pieces when it's done. These are not cheap machines, so if you don't have one you can usually get by with a flat grind for a while with some good technique, as this video shows. You open the door for more potential variation here, because different manufacturers seem to use different tapers/grinds on their blades. So there is some caveat to this method since it may be difficult to undo or create a certain grind to get both blades to line up well.
@@JendeIndustries I found a few videos about them after I left that comment. Very interesting, thank you! 👍
@@bodeine454 Yes, there are MANY videos on this subject with just as many approaches. It's actually a hotly debated topic. The pros insist only the machine works. I agree that it is probably the best long term option, but for short term maintenance, this works. Thanks again for watching. I hope you found some valuable info in it as you make your sharpening decisions!
BIG time ! A dude on one channel, who was apparently represent'n the sharpening "industry"🤪, actually wouldn't even answer basic questions about the convexity of the disk or RPM's nor even the grit FFS. I think its largely a scam built around some truth since it does seem to really be important for some scissors at least(I think). But I'd bet a few precious fingers that its mostly just about selling expensive machines & being the more "professional" sharpener. A commenter above even mentioned that a friend with a precision aerospace machine shop tested 20+ random bran new blade sets from various manufactures mind you & they ALL tested flat. 🤔 So, If that is indeed true, these circus acts could sure use a smack in the head 🤜🤡. & even worse yet, is the # of ppl that just heard it in a vid & are now experts in the matter(Dunning-Kruger in action), when in reality they're only helping to propagate BS by parroting it. Polly wanna hollow grind ? 🦜 Anyway, If there is a non-negligible amount of truth to it, its probably mostly regarding longevity, I'd think, which would surely be important to pros I suppose. All that said, NO question DIY(flat) "works" & the avg person's clippers are practically a dime per dozen anyway. But yes, this topic NEEDS closure. Can some engineers at clipper manufacturers please speak up already. If anyone agrees perhaps at least repost these Q's/points on a reddit forum or something.
Could you please provide the name of the manufacturer of the stones and where is the best online store to purchase them?
Thank you for the well done instructional video 🎉
That will work for awhile, losing the hollow grind though, will run hotter too..
Agreed. But it works for the few short term times. Thanks for watching!
Happy birthday for work could you help me tell me how many sharpening stones you use to sharpen the blades and what number of the grain of the stones you are using my name is Leandro from Brazil
Interesting debate here on the Hollow vs. Flat ground blades. I called manufacturers and asked how the blades are sharpen at the factory. Andis wouldn't say, Geib said flat ground, Wahl said the top is hollow ground and the bottom is flat ground.
YEs, the flat grinds are "easier" to do with this method. Once you get the hollow grinds, there is much more variation of pitch. At that point you will want a machine with the diamond disk.
You can tell based on the wear marks from prior use, what needs removed to bring those areas back up to mate with the other side.
Gonna try this right now!! Stand by….
Are you familiar with the blades in a Flowbee hair cutting head. They are in oscillating plates that act as cutting blades. I'm trying to figure out how to sharpen them, but they are a bit different from the clipper blades you show here. I have some familiarity with sharpening grafting knife blades, but I see that reciprocating and oscillating blades are a different animal. Do you have knowledge of the Flowbee system and any suggestions for me that would help me figure this out?
Great video, seem to have done the trick for my trimmer
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
At 3:36 dude laughed just like Rob Schneider!
Thanks for that awesome video.
Where can I buy the stones?
You can buy the stones on jendeindustries.com/
Those wear marks as you called them are where YOU pushed down on the blades. See how they line up?
Tell me about the silocone spray? Should I oil before reassembly?
Silicone is a lighter lubricant than 3 in 1 oil but I like it primarily because it is greaseless. Oils on the blade lube and protect from rust, but they also tend to act as a sponge for dirt and hair to buildup on. It's not a huge deal as long as the blades are kept lubed regularly. I like to oil before assemble to make sure I get all the parts covered, even if I wipe the excess down before assembly.
does the comb part of this not need to be sharpened hollow ground with the cutter being sharpened flat?
Yes, it seems I have been doing it wrong, as another commenter pointed out. There should be a slight hollow grind on the comb. I shall be getting a flat disk grinder as a result!
Thank you my friend
Thanks for watching!
These small clippers have such thin metal. Opposed to an Andis #10. The risk to warping from friction and heat is high if using a something like hollow grind on Nebraska Blades.
What a great sharpen. I subscribe..........
Hi,
really good explained
THX👍🇦🇹
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the excellent in depth video. It helped me a lo
Lot
Glad it helped!
Not having any luck with this method.....it must be me....what could go wrong with this style of sharpening.... thank you
To be fair, this method doesn't always work. Clipper blades are a little more tricky and by no means uniform from maker to maker. There are some specialist machines that even out the equation, but I don't do enough blades to warrant the purchase of the machine, although I want one. :)
This is so wrong. He's going horizontal when it should be vertical.
What grid u use for clipper sharppening sir ?
With anything mechanical, I tend not to go too refined - usually not over 1K grit. The speed of the machine does the work, and too refined can cause heat buildup and the edges to damage more quickly.
I'm curious, do the blades develop a burr as you sharpen then lilke a knife does? Would a burr form between the tines of the blade that may hamper cutting?
Great Question! Ultimately, there is a burr, but it forms between the teeth. You could go in and deburr or sharpen the sides of the teeth, but that is way overkill and too time consuming, and really not worth it in general, IMO The idea is that the two surfaces of the blades do not have any space between them so that it severs the hair against the side walls of the teeth rather than crush the hair or run it over. So removing the ink is usually sufficient enough.
@@JendeIndustries thanks! I think you are right, it does sound like an overkill.
1 year later.... If a burr is formed, Usea nylon stiff mini brush, both sides a few times. If using a proper machine, they tend to burn off
This was helpful to me. Thank you
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
How fine is the grinder ???
P400 or 600, 800, 1000, 2000 ???
WOW...Thanks for this video
welcome
so the smoother 2 surfaces are... creates more friction?
Yes, there will be more surface area contact and/or less heat reduction potential if the scratches are finer.
Hw much doe's this machine costs.
This is EXACTLY why Charleston white has not been harmed 😂😂😂
What do you do if the blades are rusty?
Excellent question! The sharpening process will (or should) remove any rust on the places that have contact with each other. Depending on the rest of the blade condition, you can use sandpaper, a scotch brite pad, or a buffing wheel. If there is serious damage or pitting, then the blades may be better off being replaced.
Thank you for info. Greatly appreciated.
@@maryenglish9883Soak them in vinegar for a few hours, that usually removes rust from metal
....very descriptive!
Thanks for watching!
Which clipper I should buy
Thanks it was helpful and we'll explain👏👏
awesome video ty!
Thank you!
Why not use a pencil to mark?
Either is good if you can see it clearly enough. There's no missing the red :)
Why do some professional sharpeners believe that a convex sharpening diamond machine across the teeth is better that just using sharpening stones?
This is a great question, and a valid one. Bottom line, the convex machine is better and more consistent to be able to match up the 2 parts of the blades. There are different grinds to almost every brand of clipper, so using this machine will simply level out the playing field the first time, then if you service them in the future, its a quick touchup. However, you can use a flat surface for touching up several times before the mating of the blades goes off enough to impact the cutting.
My clippers have the same blades and I've been trying to find replacement. What are they called by the way?
My favorite are buttercut by geib gator or arteros
Nvm I just read the discussion below it answered my question lol
I am a old guy 61 and my clippers are not sharp anymore I am trying to clip my Pomeranian and the clippers are not cutting
The issue i have with stones is that they wear unevenly
That is true, but you can always lap your stones so they maintain an even flatness over time. It's normal procedure.
@@JendeIndustries I’ve got one of those other stones that you use to get them even but it doesn’t really get a true surface for me. Not being adversarial, but i put 50 bucks into a nice stone to sharpen my blades (not based on this video though, no worries heheh), stone was fresh, but seemed to be removing metal unevenly. It did sharpen it a bit, just not as much as I’d like. I think I’m going to get some glass, glue to a 2x4, then use a light adhesive to glue some sandpaper to that. Vary the grit and such.
Just off hand, do you know what the typical culprit is when you hear loud chattering from clippers? For some reason when i zero gapped i would get chattering / buzzing depending on how i held the buzzer in my hand
@@JP-vx2sr Making sure the back of the sandpaper and the glass is clean, tape it down, no adhesive on the back is going to end up as flat as doing that. Plus with adhesive, it's more of a pain to get the sandpaper off later to replace it.
Chattering is typically due to the design of the clipper, and blades not sitting flush and sharp enough (have a bevel still on the cutting edge from wear) that the blade sits in a pressurized arm and then some space gets between the blades due to hair between them, and it flops up and back down till their hair is freed out. unfortunately not being in direct contact between the other blade plate, so isn't cutting well while that happens.
@@stinkycheese8048 I use a piece of 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick tempered glass a bit bigger than a full sheet of waterproof sandpaper . All I do is simply wet the glass and run the paper under the tap on both sides. The waster both locks the paper to the glass and additionally acts as a lubricant. I run up through the grits after each, I rinse the paper off for use on other things. Most importantly rinse the glass well to remove the larger grit swill from the previous grit of paper.
Smoother is better. The oil film will cut the friction. Sheep shearers are constantly oiling their shears and this should be a practice with any animal shear or ones intended for humans. I like the synthetic oils. They seem to lubricate much better.
Thank you for the input and suggestion!
so 400 only?
How can I get this stone am in Nigeria
Please visit the website jendeindustries.com and complete the checkout process. For further enquiries please contact support at orders@jendeindustries.com or live chat 💬
well done...
Thank you! But please don't do this more than once or twice on the blades. Hollow grinding them is the proper way.
@@JendeIndustries Thank you again for the heads up. I found you the best on RUclips period.
GREAT VIDEO; THE A.I. GODS SHOULD GIVE YOU MORE LIKES, AND SUBSCRIBERS. VERY INFORMATIVE. THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO. I DEFINITELY SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR RUclips CHANNEL.
Thank you for watching!
You have more sharpening stones than the hardware store.
I've accumulated quite a few more than what you see in the video :D I have an entire shelf in a rack dedicated to my personal stones I usually don't use. Glad you enjoyed the eye candy though!
Sayon ra ni sundon imo video sir salamat.
Daghang salamat sa pagtan-aw!😎😎
@@JendeIndustries You understand Filipino language sir, amazing.
@@CoYco-bu8wt Nah, Google translate does all the heavy lifting. I love that there is an international community that watches our videos! 🤩🤩
Nah, ang paghubad sa Google naghimo sa tanan nga bug-at nga pag-alsa. Ganahan ko nga adunay internasyonal nga komunidad nga nagtan-aw sa among mga video!
Thanks now I know how I can sharp my blade
Thanks for watching!
Do you use both 400 and 1000 grit stone on one blade? Or dose it depends on the size of the blade for which stone you use?
I won't use more than a 1,000 grit stone. However, I was recently informed about using a conical shaped grinder for the clippers in the long run. Stones will work once or twice, but it seems you want something that will hollow grind on less powerful clippers.
Helpful, but took a little too long.
Every blade will take a different amount of time unless you use a machine. All that matters is that the method works!
Bravoo
How many people have acess to a home grinder what’s the point of this video
Yeah... That isn't going to work. As mentioned above. A lot wrong here.
Yes, thank you! I appreciate you pointing it out! I've since been schooled in the purpose of the tapered flat disk. But if you see more wrong, please explain. Thanks!
@@JendeIndustries A tapered flat disk? Never see such a thing.
How were clipper blades sharpened before these tapered disk? Seems they came into the business 10-12 years ago. Was everybody but Ed just morons?
Wrong
I appreciate the feedback. :D
Глупость.
Спасибо, что нашли время, чтобы выразить себя!
This isn’t how you do it. Clipper blades are not supposed to be flat.
🎉😂No No no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no, no, no. Oh, I don’t like it. No, no no no no no no no no no, no, I don’t like it. No, no no no no. No no, no, I don’t like no.
Lol, I appreciate the honesty. You must sharpen professionally :D This has a lot of hate from that side of sharpening. :D
It is quite annoying to see someone so adamantly opposed to something without a more suitable alternative. And you don’t even state why you are opposed.
Not sharp
Dear Sir, you do not have a clue on how to sharpen clipper blades. Maybe you should stay with sharpening play scissors.
I appreciate your comments - what am I doing wrong?
@@JendeIndustries been following Ed a long time. Anyone doing anything and it's not him are idiots.
@@Oilfieldscout Lol, So what you are saying is that because I am not Ed, I cannot, and should not, therefore, even attempt to sharpen clipper blades? :D
Maybe you should do a video and post a link here
@@JendeIndustriesclassy response.
I think you understand what a convex plate clipper sharpening machine is for now, so please remove this video for the misinformation being spread by it. You're costing people money and making your company look stupid.
ODG - Hollow grinding is just a method to reduce the actual surface area in contact between the comb and cutter... .a hollow ground comb or cutter at 220 grit would is far from a sharp surface in the knife sharpening world..the sparks seen on the sharpening machines = heat which weaken the metal (that is not a good thing in case you did not know) why do you think they use water cooling for lathes & CNC. Please educate why Flat sharpening does not work instead of saying its misinformation.
I tried this they won't cut ...went to 1000 seuhiro