Another awesome video. That sealant tape looked like butyl which is used around car windows or to seal headlight lenses. It never goes fully hard but you need some heat to make it soft again when put on a car. It comes in sealant tubes like silicone which is super gunky and messy or in cord form in a square profile which is very easy to work with. 5metre butyl cord was about 10 eur if I remember correctly. Replaced lenses on both of my Audi headlights and I still have plenty left which after a year is still soft and workable. Great stuff to seal and keep moisture out of non-visible areas.
Hello Gplus..This is sometimes referred to as butyl tape. It sure does seal up and make a nice gasket too. We use butyl in construction for extreme weather sealing..applied like a caulking from a caulking gun. Very veristile product!
Thanks Rennch When I first saw this car..the color was just so gross.. I could have never dreamed this was the real color under all that age=) keep safe Rennch and keep up the great work!!
Beautiful work, Mike. Your attention to detail is remarkable and your skills are at the absolute highest level. Congrats on the project. Really coming together now.
Hello Rob Thank you so much! It would be nice if they would invite me to they're museum for a tour and a bonus trip to Porsche Archives to look up the Kardex for this car.. Its good to dream=))
This doesn't look like it was an easy task. I would bet video of some of that 5 hour 'adjustment' time would contain some R rated language. :) Very nice work and interesting video once again. Looking very good.
Hello quicktastic=) You are absolutely right!! There are some choice vocabulary moments when trying to get things the way you want them but they don't want to go there..Im sure you are familiar with those special moments Thanks for tuning in and keep safe!!
Hello Giovanni.. Happy Easter Its tough where you're at!! We are pretty much pinned down here now too..good time to work on the cars and keep you supplied with new vid=) keep healthy and stay safe!!
Really enjoyed the video Mike. I haven't had too much time to watch RUclips recently but this was a welcome respite. After the Bush fires Down Under earlier in the year, and now the pandemic, there isn't a lot of good news around, but I am really glad to see you progressing the car. It looks amazing, as I always knew that it would; its a great credit to you.
Hello Brett Thanks good to hear from you=) Im glad to hear you are doing well..Its a double whammy for sure! The world is seriously going through some tough times..Geeze.. Stay healthy and keep safe!!
I bought Konis for the front of a Rover P6B and found that they had not designed them for the reverse action of the Rover suspension...so bump damping was rebound and rebound damping was bump...made for an interesting ride........have not been keen on them since.....haha
Mike, your step by step instructions have been indispensable while I fully restore my 91 C2 964. As you indicate, the sealing tape binds together quickly. When I installed the fender, now it won't budge for me to properly align it. I feel like there is no choice but to pull it off again. Any tips?
Hello Don thank you I'm glad they can be of some help. Yes the putty tape does stick too well! It can be a problem when trying to adjust. Same issue here. I recommend on a very warm day and warm conditions to slip a thin 1 1/2 high quality putty knife between the fender and body to separate. Also you will need a stiff high quality 3 inch putty knife to work along side as you gently press the 1 1/2 down through the putty and use the 3 inch to gently pry the fender away from the body as you work down the fender. Making sure all fasteners are removed first. You will then be able to do what ever you need to pull it into proper alignment. Go slow and be careful with the knifes. Maybe even tape on the perimeter to prevent any accident. The fender will move and will reseal when you are ready to re-tighten the hardware. Good Luck!
Thank you so much for making these videos Mike! I am currently starting on a ‘67 912 myself, and would be far more lost without your tutorials. I also had a question if anyone knows, I noticed a few fender hardware kits online and some have square washers. Is this to support worn out flanges? Btw, the car looks truly fantastic, and the color is awesome!
You're very welcome Im glad they are helpful. I see those washers too..not exactly sure what location they are used for. If you find put please be sure let us know Good luck with your restoration!! Cheers!
Awesome series and outstanding attention to detail! Bravo! I just got a 1970 911T and the front hood/fender gaps are very tight, and the fenders look new from underneath. Do you think that in replacing the fenders that the previous owner skipped the butyl tape? Does the double tape layer between the fenders and the body create the gap with the hood? Thanks, and keep up the great work! Gary
Hello Gary Thank you and happy new year! I have not found that doubling the butyl tape has any advantages.. I have to trim out the excess as it squeezed out upon tightening. The fenders will need to be adjusted into the doors and hood with all gaps considered. I recommend watching my video Final Walk around as I go into it a bit deeper. They will need to be fully adjusted and fully tightened to get your gaps tight. Good Luck!
Assembling my '68 912 Targa and all the panels and doors were removed. Hood has been reinstalled and watching your exceptional videos the next step are the fenders. My question is why not the doors then the fenders? The doors (my hinges were not removed) are fixed and since the fenders have some room for adjustment, is it really the best way to do the fenders first? This is NOT a criticism but a question for a novice like me. In other words, matching the gaps of the fenders to the installed door sequence question. Thank you, gj.
Hello gj and season greetings Yes doors in place will be a big help in alignment. If you have chance I recommend watching the Final Walk Around video in which I will be discussing panel gaps and how the doors relate to the fenders. In my case this is the order in which the build was ready for assembly but fenders doors and hood all need to be worked together for the best possible fit. Im sure adjusting will be necessary once all three are with each other. Wishing you the best of luck they are tough!! -Cheers
Thank you for that explanation. Since the door hinges were painted while on the vehicle but the pins were not, what is your suggestion on how to paint the pins? The pins are bare metal and if I paint them prior to installation, won't the paint shear off the pins while knocking them into place? And painting them after installation seems like an impossible task to get full paint coverage.@@MikesRestorations
@@gjdettore5028 gj also in the final walk around video I think I went over this to some degree. I sandblasted the heads and then when I painted the car I also painted them at the same time. I poked holes in a cardboard box and left the heads proud of the box. Epoxy primer base, scuffed and then base coat clear coat. When I hung the doors I used a 2nd set of screws to set and align the doors. Once everything was adjusted and looked good I switched out the screws one at a time until everything was replaced without loosing the final adjustment. The trick is to make sure you are done adjusting! If you pull and replace the screws multiple times you will crack the paint and it will lift.
Hi Mike, I'm wondering, when you sprayed the vht clear over your yellow zinc finish, did it dull down the amount of rainbow swirl effect at all ? the other clears i have tried, all change the look, the swirl effect would probably be cut in half in looks. Which is what stops me from using a clear coat.
Hello Resto Blast Yes the iridescence does faded make the finish more like a gold plating rather than with the rainbow appearance If brake fluid gets on the yellow conversion coating it will remove it anyways..As long as the brake system never leaks or has any accidents you should be okay by not top coating. My brake system is so old and unknown at the time of assembly I didn't don't want to take any chances. So far to date I have had no issues with there calipers leaking Either way is a good choice! Good Luck
Im not sure on that one.. It's possible but these cars were hand built back in the day and had very subtle differences between them. If you could take yours off and compare it to the ones you are thinking of buying that would be the safest bet! Good Luck
Wow, that’s a true. Restoration car looks amazing, sir. You do absolutely amazing work.😍
Thanks Archie
Cheers!
Another awesome video. That sealant tape looked like butyl which is used around car windows or to seal headlight lenses. It never goes fully hard but you need some heat to make it soft again when put on a car. It comes in sealant tubes like silicone which is super gunky and messy or in cord form in a square profile which is very easy to work with. 5metre butyl cord was about 10 eur if I remember correctly. Replaced lenses on both of my Audi headlights and I still have plenty left which after a year is still soft and workable. Great stuff to seal and keep moisture out of non-visible areas.
Hello Gplus..This is sometimes referred to as butyl tape.
It sure does seal up and make a nice gasket too. We use butyl in construction for extreme weather sealing..applied like a caulking from a caulking gun. Very veristile product!
When watching the restoration process is very gratifying. Good job!
Thanks Roberto
I appreciate the positive feedback
Cheers!
Well done mike. The car is starting to look fantastic! Cant wait to see the engine go in 👍.
Thank RJ
Me too!
Excellent tutorial. That color is 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks Rennch
When I first saw this car..the color was just so gross.. I could have never dreamed this was the real color under all that age=)
keep safe Rennch and keep up the great work!!
Love the color
Beautiful work, Mike. Your attention to detail is remarkable and your skills are at the absolute highest level. Congrats on the project. Really coming together now.
Hello Dan
Thank you for the nicest compliment=) She is finally starting to take on a real shape!
Just amazing as usual. Can't help feel this car should be made known to Porsche once completed.
Hello Rob Thank you so much!
It would be nice if they would invite me to they're museum for a tour and a bonus trip to Porsche Archives to
look up the Kardex for this car.. Its good to dream=))
This doesn't look like it was an easy task. I would bet video of some of that 5 hour 'adjustment' time would contain some R rated language. :) Very nice work and interesting video once again. Looking very good.
Hello quicktastic=) You are absolutely right!! There are some choice vocabulary moments when trying to get things the way you want them but they don't want to go there..Im sure you are familiar with those special moments
Thanks for tuning in and keep safe!!
Thats a lot of bolts 🔩 wow. My 69, needs front clip. Great video. 👍
Now the car is taking shape! Excelent work!
Hello Bruno thank you
She's finally coming together
keep safe out there!!
Excellent work Mike, i was just thinking yesterday, "i hope Mike puts up another video" & here it is. Happy Easter, and keep safe everyone. 🐰🐇
Hello Resto Blast
Happy Easter and Keep safe and healthy out there!
Happy Easter Mike! Life here in Italy is tougher than ever so please keep feeding us with your videos which I find über-inspirational!
Hello Giovanni.. Happy Easter
Its tough where you're at!! We are pretty much pinned down here now too..good time to work on the cars and keep you supplied with new vid=) keep healthy and stay safe!!
Really enjoyed the video Mike. I haven't had too much time to watch RUclips recently but this was a welcome respite. After the Bush fires Down Under earlier in the year, and now the pandemic, there isn't a lot of good news around, but I am really glad to see you progressing the car. It looks amazing, as I always knew that it would; its a great credit to you.
Hello Brett Thanks good to hear from you=)
Im glad to hear you are doing well..Its a double whammy for sure!
The world is seriously going through some tough times..Geeze..
Stay healthy and keep safe!!
Wow! Amazing attention to detail! Fantastic Mike!
Hello Simon
Thank you..Lots of details in these cars!
My goodness Mike you are a maestro.
Thanks John=)
Fantastic attention to detail.
Thank you!
I bought Konis for the front of a Rover P6B and found that they had not designed them for the reverse action of the Rover suspension...so bump damping was rebound and rebound damping was bump...made for an interesting ride........have not been keen on them since.....haha
Very Interesting..Thanks for sharing!
Absolutely amazing attention to detail!
Thanks James=)
My goodness that looks good...your attention to detail is inspiring, thanks:)
Thanks Carl
Stunning!!!
Thanks Rob
Mike, your step by step instructions have been indispensable while I fully restore my 91 C2 964. As you indicate, the sealing tape binds together quickly. When I installed the fender, now it won't budge for me to properly align it. I feel like there is no choice but to pull it off again. Any tips?
Hello Don thank you I'm glad they can be of some help.
Yes the putty tape does stick too well! It can be a problem when trying to adjust.
Same issue here.
I recommend on a very warm day and warm conditions to slip a thin 1 1/2 high quality putty knife between the fender and body to separate. Also you will need a stiff high quality 3 inch putty knife to work along side as you gently press the 1 1/2 down through the putty and use the 3 inch to gently pry the fender away from the body as you work down the fender.
Making sure all fasteners are removed first.
You will then be able to do what ever you need to pull it into proper alignment. Go slow and be careful with the knifes. Maybe even tape on the perimeter to prevent any accident. The fender will move and will reseal when you are ready to re-tighten the hardware.
Good Luck!
Looking goooooood !!!!!
Thanks A mericanix!
Oooo nice isolation video. Paint Colour is 👌🏻
Will keep the isolation videos coming=) Good time to work on the cars and watch Mikes Restorations=)Stay Safe out there!!
Nice attention to detail Mike, well done! Cheers, Doug
Thanks Doug!
Beautiful! The tape was interesting. I never realized that was under there.
Hi Gary
That tape is pretty cool stuff!!
Awesome. Wish I had your patience.
Thanks polloci..Sometimes I wish I had more patience!
can't wait till you drive this beauty off the garage =)
Good Morning k0zyr Me too!=)
Amazing work Brother!!!
Thanks Frank!
wow, pretty work
Thanks Baudett
Thank you so much for making these videos Mike! I am currently starting on a ‘67 912 myself, and would be far more lost without your tutorials. I also had a question if anyone knows, I noticed a few fender hardware kits online and some have square washers. Is this to support worn out flanges? Btw, the car looks truly fantastic, and the color is awesome!
You're very welcome Im glad they are helpful.
I see those washers too..not exactly sure what location they are used for.
If you find put please be sure let us know
Good luck with your restoration!!
Cheers!
Nice work!
Thanks Conrad
woaooo woaooo amazing!
Hello Edison
Thanks for the comment!
Awesome series and outstanding attention to detail! Bravo! I just got a 1970 911T and the front hood/fender gaps are very tight, and the fenders look new from underneath. Do you think that in replacing the fenders that the previous owner skipped the butyl tape? Does the double tape layer between the fenders and the body create the gap with the hood? Thanks, and keep up the great work! Gary
Hello Gary
Thank you and happy new year!
I have not found that doubling the butyl tape has any advantages.. I have to trim out the excess as it squeezed out upon tightening. The fenders will need to be adjusted into the doors and hood with all gaps considered. I recommend watching my video Final Walk around as I go into it a bit deeper. They will need to be fully adjusted and fully tightened to get your gaps tight.
Good Luck!
@@MikesRestorations Thanks for taking the time to respond!
Assembling my '68 912 Targa and all the panels and doors were removed. Hood has been reinstalled and watching your exceptional videos the next step are the fenders. My question is why not the doors then the fenders? The doors (my hinges were not removed) are fixed and since the fenders have some room for adjustment, is it really the best way to do the fenders first? This is NOT a criticism but a question for a novice like me. In other words, matching the gaps of the fenders to the installed door sequence question.
Thank you,
gj.
Hello gj and season greetings
Yes doors in place will be a big help in alignment. If you have chance I recommend watching the Final Walk Around video in which I will be discussing panel gaps and how the doors relate to the fenders.
In my case this is the order in which the build was ready for assembly but fenders doors and hood all need to be worked together for the best possible fit. Im sure adjusting will be necessary once all three are with each other.
Wishing you the best of luck they are tough!!
-Cheers
Thank you for that explanation. Since the door hinges were painted while on the vehicle but the pins were not, what is your suggestion on how to paint the pins? The pins are bare metal and if I paint them prior to installation, won't the paint shear off the pins while knocking them into place? And painting them after installation seems like an impossible task to get full paint coverage.@@MikesRestorations
@@gjdettore5028 gj also in the final walk around video I think I went over this to some degree. I sandblasted the heads and then when I painted the car I also painted them at the same time. I poked holes in a cardboard box and left the heads proud of the box. Epoxy primer base, scuffed and then base coat clear coat.
When I hung the doors I used a 2nd set of screws to set and align the doors. Once everything was adjusted and looked good I switched out the screws one at a time until everything was replaced without loosing the final adjustment. The trick is to make sure you are done adjusting! If you pull and replace the screws multiple times you will crack the paint and it will lift.
Im enjoying your project. Thanks for sharing. Do you have a first-drive goal/estimate of 2020?
Hello Gerald
Great! Im glad you are enjoying=))
I have a goal but depends on many variables..If luck is with me..perhaps by years end??
Hi Mike, I'm wondering, when you sprayed the vht clear over your yellow zinc finish, did it dull down the amount of rainbow swirl effect at all ? the other clears i have tried, all change the look, the swirl effect would probably be cut in half in looks. Which is what stops me from using a clear coat.
Hello Resto Blast
Yes the iridescence does faded make the finish more like a gold plating rather than with the rainbow appearance
If brake fluid gets on the yellow conversion coating it will remove it anyways..As long as the brake system never leaks or has any accidents you should be okay by not top coating.
My brake system is so old and unknown at the time of assembly I didn't don't want to take any chances.
So far to date I have had no issues with there calipers leaking
Either way is a good choice! Good Luck
Hi Mike, thank you for the reply mate, i will leave them just plain zinc finnish then, thanks once again for your help, keep up the good work.
Will 1965 skinny fenders fit 69, 912? Thank you
Im not sure on that one.. It's possible but these cars were hand built back in the day and had very subtle differences between them. If you could take yours off and compare it to the ones you are thinking of buying that would be the safest bet!
Good Luck
I found out 69 to 74 are different.... Thank you 👍
Do you sell restored Porsche?
Hello Vanguard
This Porsche is not for sale.. However I do some restoration work at request
www.mikesrestorations.com